Spain Grañón

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  • Day 11–12

    Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Yesterday, I mentioned a festival that appeared to be happening in Nájera. As it turned out, that was the warm-up and, after dark, the streets were crowded from wall to wall with partygoers. The hotel I was in was really comfortable, the breakfast was great, and the owners were very helpful. Unfortunately, my room was directly above a disco and a night club so the noise and the shouting persisted all night – and I mean all night. People were still milling about at 5:00am so I decided to quit pretending to rest and get up. Ah well, that’s the Camino for you - be ready for anything.

    Today, I saw fewer vineyards and more wheat again. When I arrived in Azofra, the first small village, the few bars and cafés were jammed with pilgrims lining up for their first coffee. After a quick chat with a couple of familiar faces, I decided to press on to the next stop..

    That involved a gradual climb for about 5kms before I started the long climb into Cirueña. This is a peculiar place. A golf course appeared out of nowhere and the nearby town is quite modern compared with other villages along the way. However, there were many ‘For Sale’ signs on the fences and many of the windows were shuttered which gave the whole place a deserted ghost town appearance. Looks like a struggling development project. On the other hand, it was Sunday morning. Another kilometre further on is the old Cirueña and this seemed to have a bit of life to it.

    I stopped in a local park for a quick refresh and then started the final leg into Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Sto Domingo is a medium sized town so it took some time to reach the city centre. I then found my accomm and it is run by two women who might be sisters, not sure. They don’t have any English and speak Spanish so quickly that I’ve had to resort to Google Translate for help. Has to be the world’s most useful app!

    Tonight, dinner is in-house and the kitchen is starting to get busy in preparation. I should mention my meals, which I have paid for ahead of time. Apart from the bigger cities where there are plenty of options, the dinner menu is a quite simple Pilgrims’ menu. It usually involves three basic courses, which is plenty, and the obligatory glass (or two) of wine is included. Tonight I had a bowl of chicken soup, followed by a few strips of pork loin, peppers and chips, and then a simple dessert.

    I met more Australians today – Jill and Martin from Waverton in Sydney – as well as Vicki from Los Angeles. Tomorrow, I’m off to Belorado and only three more days to Burgos, which I’m looking forward to.

    Efren’s video of today’s walk can be seen by clicking below.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DxfhRmMOUM&amp…

    Distance today: 21 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 212 kms

    Buen Camino
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  • Day 18

    Nájera à …. Belorado

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Nous sommes partis ce matin de Nájera d’où on garde un beau souvenir! Nous avons opté pour un tour de calèche (bus) pour se rendre Santo Domingo. J’ai compris que tous les moyens sont bons pour se rendre à Santiago sans perdre une grosse orteil 🤣. Nous quittons alors la région du Rioja en passant par Gañon.
    Nous voilà arrivé dans la région de Castillo y Leòn à Belorado. Un beau village avec une plaza magnifique.
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  • Day 9

    Azofra - Redecilla del Camino

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Start wie üblich 6.30
    Knieschonenden Gepäckstransport erstmals ausgenutzt
    erste Rast in der Trabantenstadt Cirueña (Golfressort)
    kultureller Zwischenstop in Santo Domingo de la Calzada
    Catedrale mit lebenden Hühnern, Turmbesteigung, Klosterbesichtigung
    Buchungsstress für die nächsten Tage
    16.30 Uhr Ankunft in Redecilla del Camino Alberge Essentia
    esoterisch angehauchten Philosoph
    im Ort total tote Hose
    26 km bei meist kaltem Wind
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  • Day 14

    Grañón

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Staying in Grañon tonight at a room in a Casa Rural, with my Camino acquaintance. 15 miles done today. About 15 more tomorrow. Mostly uphill tomorrow but not too steep yay. Grañon is tiny with just one bar/cafe. But of course a big 400 + year old church.Read more

  • Day 60–61

    Detour/Rest Day - Granon

    March 31 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Yesterday we found sleeping bags at a bazaar. Why? Because we decided to go off plan and visit a parochial donativo where we got to have a special Camino prayer service in the choir loft, sleep on mats on the floor (hence sleeping bags) and cook and eat a communal meal.

    We were greeted by hospitalieros who asked about our physical and spiritual state. They gave us food and water. Later we helped cook a meal for all the pilgrims, attended a pilgrim's mass, ate dinner and had a pilgrim's candlelight vigil.

    It has been truly humbling to witness the people who come to church each evening to pray for and with the pilgrims. Many of them have very little means, yet they show up and pray with you, they hope that you will grow closer to God and wish you a Buen Camino.
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  • Day 53

    Day 12

    March 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We had a priest from the Ukraine stay with us last night. It was a little crazy as he came right at supper and wanted permission to do a Mass. Our local priest didn't respond to us right away, so we finally reached out to our mentor, Marina. She had another way to contact the priest, and he came right away to take the Ukrainian priest into the church.

    We had a couple of Spainish men cooking last night. One was a translator and the other a student. They .ade a pista, which is a vegetable stew of sorts and meatballs with sauce. VERY tasty. The kitchen was a bit of a disaster layer, but that's ok. Great fun!

    I went to the store today with the volunteer helper, Cesar, again. We spent almost 300 euros on food and supplies, but we are doing well with donations so far.

    We have 10 in the house so far, and I imagine we will get a few more.
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  • Day 18

    Azofra to Castildelgado

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We walked through farmland again. We stayed in a place that isn’t even really a village in someone’s home. Walking through tiny villages. It feels less prosperous area, not as much money around. Less shops & cafes and life, harder to buy things. I have been in a harder place as concerned about Ed. I found a very hidden away little shortbread shop in Grañón, a village with barely any shops, or at least they were not visible because it was siesta time. Spanish villages are deserted in the afternoons and it’s hard to buy anything. I bought lots of shortbread and mango cake. I like to have snacks in my pack, especially now as the villages are thinning out and we might go for many hours without access to much. Big change from previous days.Read more

  • Day 9

    Day 6: Najera to Granon. 28.5 km

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another long day to follow up the two previous 28 km days. Our bodies are just holding up. We’re stiff and sore at days end; I’ve got a throbbing right knee from past patella tendon issues that I’m nursing and the blister by my left big toe is finally healing. No discomfort there, which is great.

    The scenery remains pretty static - vineyards, fields of sunflowers, plowed fields and small villages, with the church at centre on hills. These villages can be a grunt to get to - especially after walking in heat for 6+ hours.

    What’s not changing are the pilgrims on the trail. There are alot of them. We wake up and think who’s bumping into us, what discussions will be had, on today’s 25+ km walk…

    Up there today was the American, apple pie mom living in a 7 member blended family in Cincinnati. Let’s call her Kate. Kate’s first husband became paranoid, controlling and threatening towards during their separation. It gets ugly for Kate. He began telling his workmate that he wanted to be rid of his ex-wife. The workmate detects something strange is going on, becomes concerned and secretly informed the authorities.

    What next happens is that he the FBI do surveillance on her ex. They become really concerned. They ask the workmate to tell her ex that he knows someone to do the job and can arrange a meeting. The meeting goes ahead with an FBI undercover agent, her ex explains on camera that he wants his wife disposed of and hands over $8000. The FBI swoop and long and short is that he gets 10 years for aiding and abetting an attempted homicide. Kate reckons the whole process took three years off her life. She recalls the FBI swooping on her after school pick up and informing her of what’s happened with her ex.

    Kate then takes over the care of her three daughters, meets a new man who has four boys and she gives up her marketing work to be a full time regular American mom, coaching volleyball and doing pick up etc. This is how she presents today

    She now looks back and says that she thought she was more to him than the $8000 offered!

    Camino Moment: During today’s walk I got an email from our albergue to say they’ve overbooked. They’ve given us a welcome upgrade to an apartment: outdoor pool, clean sheets, real towels, washing machine etc. No two person cupboards with shower tonight! After a week on Camino, we need this lift.
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  • Day 15

    Day 12 - Azofra to Castildelgado

    August 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    My wife is a beast, we went 19 miles today. Granted it was without out packs, but she was on fire. I spent most of the day behind her because she was walking so fast, all with a bum ankle. Me being me, I had to throw out those classic pick-up up lines like " can I have a burger with that shake", she did laugh and blamed it on her ankle.

    We passed out of the wine country and back into farmland. Lots of cut grain fields, some green beans and even some hop fields today. It was easy walking during the morning due to overcast sky's, but it warmed up in the afternoon. The cathedral in Santo Domingo was amazing.
    We're at a nice albergue with great hosts. They cooked us dinner of soup, beef stew, and a flan. Oh yeah, and plenty of wine.

    Tomorrow will be a shorter day, I hope.
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  • Day 58

    Etappe Najera nach Granon

    August 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    In Najera fand ich es echt toll, ich badete im Fluss und spielte etwas Ukulele und ging mega früh ins Bett, es war hell, laut, aber ich schlief so schnell ein und am Morgen erwachte ich nur, weil ich den Wecker um 7:00 stellte und realisierte, dass alle ca. 20 Pilger schon weg waren und im Gang schon mit dem Besen gewischt wurde.

    Freudig stand ich auf, weil es regnete und ich heute wieder mal meine warmen Schweizer Kleider tragen durfte.

    Den ganzen Tag war ich so müde und das erste mal dachte ich, dass ich heute in einem Hotel schlafen möchte. Ich wollte mal alleine sein und ganz alleine laufen und versuchte mich mit dem Song don’t worry zu motivieren, was ziemlich gut ging.
    Ich schlief ab und zu während des Weges an schönen Plätzen. Irgendwie war ich zufrieden, aber auch traurig zu gleich und wusste gar nicht wieso, ich brauchte Zucker und ass Schokocroissant, Vanillebagel, Schokogebäck und Schokolade🙈…

    Wie der Camino so ist, schenkt er dir nicht was du willst sondern was du brauchst. Also landete ich in einer Kirche mit 40 Pilger und schlafen am Boden mega nah zusammen und ich bekam den letzten Schlafplatz. Wir kochten zusammen und tauschten uns aus, und ich sprach mit einem Mann über die Welt und seine Wege und ich fühlte mich sehr wohl und er erinnerte mich an meinen Vater.

    Es gab oberhalb der Kirche einen Austausch und es war wieder sehr emotional und ich spielte meinen Song, mein Mantra Song.. A moment in the sun. Und ich fühlte so viel Liebe und Heilung an diesem Abend und eine grosse Menschenfamilie.

    Highlights:

    Pilgerstempel im Herzen tragen

    Dieser wunderschöne Platz

    Pilger der Müll sammelt
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