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- Apr 27, 2025
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Altitude: 642 m
SpainSanto Domingo de la Calzada42°26’34” N 2°57’14” W
Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Yesterday, I mentioned a festival that appeared to be happening in Nájera. As it turned out, that was the warm-up and, after dark, the streets were crowded from wall to wall with partygoers. The hotel I was in was really comfortable, the breakfast was great, and the owners were very helpful. Unfortunately, my room was directly above a disco and a night club so the noise and the shouting persisted all night – and I mean all night. People were still milling about at 5:00am so I decided to quit pretending to rest and get up. Ah well, that’s the Camino for you - be ready for anything.
Today, I saw fewer vineyards and more wheat again. When I arrived in Azofra, the first small village, the few bars and cafés were jammed with pilgrims lining up for their first coffee. After a quick chat with a couple of familiar faces, I decided to press on to the next stop..
That involved a gradual climb for about 5kms before I started the long climb into Cirueña. This is a peculiar place. A golf course appeared out of nowhere and the nearby town is quite modern compared with other villages along the way. However, there were many ‘For Sale’ signs on the fences and many of the windows were shuttered which gave the whole place a deserted ghost town appearance. Looks like a struggling development project. On the other hand, it was Sunday morning. Another kilometre further on is the old Cirueña and this seemed to have a bit of life to it.
I stopped in a local park for a quick refresh and then started the final leg into Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Sto Domingo is a medium sized town so it took some time to reach the city centre. I then found my accomm and it is run by two women who might be sisters, not sure. They don’t have any English and speak Spanish so quickly that I’ve had to resort to Google Translate for help. Has to be the world’s most useful app!
Tonight, dinner is in-house and the kitchen is starting to get busy in preparation. I should mention my meals, which I have paid for ahead of time. Apart from the bigger cities where there are plenty of options, the dinner menu is a quite simple Pilgrims’ menu. It usually involves three basic courses, which is plenty, and the obligatory glass (or two) of wine is included. Tonight I had a bowl of chicken soup, followed by a few strips of pork loin, peppers and chips, and then a simple dessert.
I met more Australians today – Jill and Martin from Waverton in Sydney – as well as Vicki from Los Angeles. Tomorrow, I’m off to Belorado and only three more days to Burgos, which I’m looking forward to.
Efren’s video of today’s walk can be seen by clicking below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DxfhRmMOUM&…
Distance today: 21 kms
Total distance travelled so far: 212 kms
Buen CaminoRead more
Traveler I love hearing all the different goings on from festivals to ghost towns all in one day. Amazing
Traveler
Gorgeous. I hope we get to experience this Denis. 🤞
Traveler I’m guessing you are getting excited to start Jeanette