Spain Esteribar

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  • Day 9–10

    Burguete to Larrasoana

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Tough day

    We started relatively early, with the church bell striking 7. The rain was still coming down heavy enough that our boots got wet almost immediately.
    No more than half an hour into our walk, we came across a stream with water overflowing the cement steps. I slipped and fell face down. It must have been some scene!
    As soon as Eric pulled me out, I realized I had sprained my right ankle. But what to do and where to go? Nowhere except forward. So, with my clothes soaking wet, my feet swimming in water inside my boots, and increasing pain, we pushed forward the 25 km we needed to cover to get to Larrasoana, where we would spend the night. I tried hard not to think about my foot and instead, made conversation with other pilgrims along the way.
    Tonight we had a lovely communal dinner and played cards.
    We have planed to spend the next two nights in Pamplona, hoping that my foot will feel better.
    But I will still have to cover the 15 km to get there.

    Larrasoana: Stayed at Albergue San Nicolas.
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  • Day 8

    Camino Day 4- Bizkarrete to Zubiri

    April 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    As I planned and prepped for my Camino, I was well educated on the risks and knew there were likely to be days less than perfect. Today was one of those days. When I woke, my ankle was a little swollen and starting to bruise. 🥺 Knowing that today's planned walk included a very steep, very rocky descent into Zubiri, combined with a text message from John and Jen, warning of how treacherous it was, I made the tough decision to taxi ahead to Zubiri in order to prevent further injury. I was disappointed that I would miss the historical sights that I knew existed on this stretch of the Camino, but I also knew it was for the best. The photos for today are of the inn and surrounding area of Bizkarrete-Gerendiain as I was leaving, and the rest of the afternoon in Zubiri. I thoroughly enjoyed soaking my feet in the River Arga... the cold water provided healing for my ankle, and the beauty and charm of this village provided energy for my weary body.Read more

  • Day 5

    The Camino Begins...

    April 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    The long awaited day has arrived!! I had my first official pilgrim meal at breakfast... fresh baked bread, coffee, a hard-boiled egg, with a banana and more bread as a snack for the road. On my way out of town, I stopped at the chapel to say prayers of thanks for all of my blessings and to ask for good health and safety for myself and the countless other pilgrims setting out on this journey of over 500 miles... 🥾🥾🎒🚶‍♀️‍➡️Read more

  • Day 4

    St. Jean Pied de Port, France

    April 4 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I have never before seen so much charm in one little town! 🥰 The walk to the Pilgrim's Office was long and also a steep climb from the train station. After waiting in line with 50+ other pilgrims to get registered, I needed to find a place to stay. I found a small albergue just down the street. The decor was rustic French country and so incredibly charming! It was a perfect place to stay to get prepared for Day 1 on the Camino. After exploring the town, I took the recommendation from a shopkeeper for a nearby restaurant. Grilled duck, potatoes, and fresh veggies with a glass of wine... delicious! The 1/2 mile walk back to my albergue was so enchanting and peaceful with the lights of the town...Read more

  • Day 4

    Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port, France

    April 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today was all about a train ride and getting settled in St. Jean Pied de Port, where my Camino de Santiago will begin. I had a few butterflies as I was walking to the train station. Once on the train, I just stared out the window in awe of it all. The countryside of France is nothing short of beautiful! 😍Read more

  • Day 7

    Zubiri

    April 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Similar to last time, today felt much easier than yesterday, with the exception of the long, rocky, rather treacherous descent into Zubiri. Apparently there is discussion of altering it to make the footing safer, but the geology is such that others do not want it messed with (see photos below.)
    The bridge is how you enter Zubiri and it’s just as medieval as it looks.
    I’m staying at a somewhat upscale private albergue (only 10 beds in my room!). They offered a dinner, which I took them up on. I’m always so torn! It’s a good chance to socialize, but also, it’s so much…socializing! At the end of a long day, and those dinners end up taking close to two hours. Hard on this introvert!
    Almost everyone in my room is complaining about how cold it is. I am quietly thrilled that it’s cool after a very hot, stuffy night last night punctuated by a man tumbling as he tried to get out of his top bunk. It sounded quite dramatic but he assured us he was fine. I also had a top bunk, which is a challenge, but I negotiated it without mishap.
    Tomorrow I will make my first change from last year, stopping before Pamplona. Honestly I like the small towns better, and I’ll be staying at one of the oldest continuously running albergues, in one of the most complete medieval monasteries on the Camino. Pictures tomorrow!
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  • Day 51–52

    Camino Stage 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    March 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Second Day hiking: 753.4 km to go!

    We are getting into a rhythm. Along the way we met a sweet dog who joined us for lunch. There is an ebb and flow to the community- for miles you see absolutely no one, then you trek with people you met at dinner the night before. The community aspect of this Camino is lovely.Read more

  • Day 7–8

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A long day of walking due to the rain. I set off early out of the monastery alone just as it was getting light. They woke us all with beautiful deep singing music on the monastery at 6am so everyone was up and about early. I stopped for breakfast in Aspinal the 2nd town. Ed started a bit later & got sopping wet as poncho which fits me well is small on him and didn’t cover him so well. I waited for him to get to Aspinal by which time he also had blister as wet socks had slid down into his shoes. He took taxi with another man to Zubiri. I was lucky with the rain & didn’t get the worst of it. I met lovely people on the path from England Ireland and Norway. Coming onto Zubiri with steep slippery shale took a lot of concentration. 3 people whom had fallen were taken away in ambulances. Zubiri was packed and my walking companion couldn’t get a bed & Ended up walking 40km that day as there was a festival in the next town. I had a lovely day but the weather and achey legs from previous days steep climb took the wind out of Ed. We went to the sporting hall for dinner where to our surprise we had really good dinner of salad grilled shrimp & mussels and ‘fruita’ of very sweet fresh pineapple. I’m eating a lot. It feels great to have good appetite & eat heartily after the days walking.Read more

  • Day 2

    Zubiri to Pamplona

    September 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    I was expecting to be blogging before now but due to a 2 night layover in Dallas, Texas, today was my first walking day! Air travel these days is for the birds. That’s all I’ll say about that..otherwise the cuss words will start and you’ll be highly disappointed in my lack of resilience!
    Last night/today I had very special moments that I’m dying to share with you. Something I’ll never forget as long as I live.
    Due to the flight delays I had to miss the first two stops to keep my itinerary on track. I finally flew into Pamplona, Spain (I say “I” but I’m with Holly, so I’m a “We” again this year!!) and booked a room so I could regroup, mail a suitcase to Santiago de Compostela, and taxi to Zubiri the next day. I booked at Albergue Suseia, a wonderful albergue with the best food I’ve ever had on the Camino. I stayed there in 2016 & 2019, so I knew it was going to be a great evening, but I had no idea what surprises were in store for me. Dinner was at 7 and there were 11 of us dining in. We took a seat around the table and started introducing ourselves and chatting. The lady next to me, Louise, from Canada said I looked very familiar to her and asked if I was there in 2019. I told her I was with a puzzled look on my face. No sooner did I answer her she whipped out her phone and pulled up photos from 2019. She showed me the photo and I was totally shocked when I saw a photo of both her and I, sitting in the same exact chairs around the same table we were sitting at. I blurted out “That’s me!!” We both couldn’t believe it. We got tears in our eyes and hugged. Sara, who ran the Albergue was also stunned and cried. She covered her mouth and was amazed at the photo. She’s the one who said “And you’re even sitting in the same spots!!” I told Louise that there was a reason for this but I had no idea what it could be. Dinner concluded, we all turned into our beds but I kept thinking how it was so random and so cool! Of the thousands of people on the Camino, how is it possible we are not only traveling on the same days, but staying at the same Albergue? Unbelievable. I went to bed, slept like crap (still jet lagged), and at about 7am went downstairs to the common area. In walked Louise. She sat next to me, she’s so calm and soft spoken, her presence was something I felt warmth and comfort to be around. She said she got up 4 times during the night, still amazed, and confused at our meeting, and kept asking God each time she woke up what this was about and what she was to do with it. She told me the 4th time she asked Him, He said “Tell her I love her”. When she told me this we both started crying and hugging. I told her “Thank you, I really needed to hear this.” She said she told God she didn’t know if she had the courage to tell me or if she’d see me before we all parted ways in the morning. But she did. She walked to Pamplona today and will fly back to Canada. She only wanted to do this short part of the Camino. One day difference and we would’ve missed each other forever. So, today, for a person that doesn’t cry very easily, I started my day in tears and knowing God loves me. What a gift. I feel so blessed and so loved. I’m only posting one photo today, and that’s of Louise, my Camino angel.
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  • Day 5–6

    St Jean to Valcarlos the alternate route

    September 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our first day on the Camino Frances. We fought in the morning so Ed set off alone and I went to pilgrim shop to get hiking poles. He did so well, walked at great pace and managed to negotiate the app & maps and found our albergue which was not yet open and in the back of a school. He walked into a classroom before eventually finding Josef who could show him to our bunks. It was a small municipale albergue. Basic but comfortable & lovely atmosphere with fellow pilgrims. A wonderful start. I struggled to work out the maps on my own & didn’t know where to go & was nearly in tears so I went to pilgrim office & got help so I managed to work it out & set off on my own. Shortly into the journey a deep serenity came over me as I settled into the rhythm of walking and the beauty & peace of walking in the Pyrenees. Our journey had begun & everything felt right in the world. 😊Read more

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