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  • Day 13

    Roman Forts and Flying Boats

    April 16 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    We’ve arrived in Scotland! I’m looking forward to seeing it in the afternoon sun tomorrow. It was gray and rainy today.

    We left Newcastle, after a hearty breakfast and a great cup of coffee at a local Italian cafe. Our first stop was Hadrian’s wall. Although you can hike the entire 73 miles of wall that stretches from coast to coast in northern England, we decided on a single stop at Housestead’s Roman Fort. It is the most complete Roman fort in England. The weather varied from mist to rain, so we geared up before walking the half mile from the car park to the museum and fort. The wind was blustery and fairly unpleasant as we walked up the hill. Fortunately, the museum was warm and dry, so we lingered for a bit looking at the recovered artifacts and a short historical video. When we ventured out again, the rain turned to a light mist then stopped altogether, but the wind did not. I can’t imagine being a Roman soldier and getting stuck on this windy hill with a short skirt, while my friend Fortuitous is sunny himself in Malta. However, the wind did dry out my pants, which had gotten soggy on the walk up. Anyhoo, we first went to the small portion of the wall, where you are allowed to walk on the top of it. From there we wandered into the fort. The prized ruin is the Roman latrine. I didn’t count, but it would have had toilet seats for about a dozen people at one time. The Romans had a sophisticated drainage system that swept away the waste regularly. In another move of planning excellence, the latrine was built in the south east corner of the fort, so any smell would have blown away from the complex. Brilliant.

    The fort was fairly large with barracks in neat rows and a hospital on the grounds. It was hard to picture the enormity of the fort, but information signs, strategically placed around the old stones, helped to spark my imagination. From the south side, I could see the wall stretching over the hills and out of sight. At the time of Hadrian’s rule, he decided to stop expanding the empire and protect what was most worthwhile. The wall was his northern boundary on the British isle, as the tribes to the north weren’t worth the continual headache. It was a simple cost/benefit decision; the resources he could strip from the north simply weren’t worth the frequent military battles.

    Following the visit to the fort, we headed to Scotland. I can’t remember where I heard about the Falkirk wheel, but I’ve wanted to see it ever since. As noted in a previous blog from this trip, there is an extensive canal system in Great Britain, and boats are able to move along the canals via multiple locks. Before this ingenious invention (the Wheel), boats had to transit 11 locks to get from the Union canal down to the Forth & Clyde canal. This would have meant operating about 44 separate gates to make the journey. However, some imagineer decided that you could cut out all of the locks and replace them with a single wheel that would carry a boat up or down the 100 feet in one swing. This is how it works. Let’s say a boat wants to go up to the Union canal. It will pull into a “bay”, and a door will raise behind it, thereby keeping the boat locked in an enormous box filled with water. The wheel will then turn one-half circle to bring the boat up to the canal. Once there, the door is dropped, and the boat can motor away. We watched one of the tourist boats go up, and it took about 20 minutes. I think. I was standing in a cold rain, with strong wind gusts, so it felt like it took an hour. My hands were frozen by the time the boat got to the top, but I was determined to video the whole process in time lapse. Check it out!
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  • Day 5–9

    Edinburgh

    April 4 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Edinburgh - Stadt des Herzens. Leider war es heute sehr kalt, brrr. Also haben wir uns für eine Stadtrundfahrt mit den Hop on/Hop off-Bussen entschieden. Zum ersten Mal am Hafen und einen Blick auf die Royal Britannia geworfen. Zurück in der Innenstadt durften die Princess Street Gardens nicht fehlen. Am Nachmittag dann die runderneuerte Scottish Whisky-Experience, natürlich mit einem Dram zum Probieren. Habe einen neuen Favoriten entdeckt: den Glen Scotia aus Campbeltown. Hmm 🥃.
    Immer ein Highlight: der erste Backpiper. Denn: Wenn ich den Klang des Dudelsacks höre, ist meine Seele zu Hause.
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  • The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

    August 3, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Das weltberühmte Edinburgh Tattoo (von englisch tattoo = Zapfentreich) war schließlich das Highlight und krönender Abschluss unseres Kurztrips nach Schottland. Vor der dramatischen Kulisse des Edinburgh Castle, fast 1.000 Musiker, Dudelsackspieler, Trommler, Sänger und Tänzer, die aus dem altehrwürdigen Burgtor kommen und so richtig richtig Dampf machen! Einzigartig!! Ich habe selten so eine gute Show gesehen!!

    Höhepunkt war ganz klar zum Zapfentreich der einzelne Dudelsackspieler oben auf den Burgmauern - alle Regimenter, Tänzer und Musiker zusammen mit den knapp 9.000 Besuchern in völliger Dunkelheit davor - und das Spielen von Amazing Grace. Was für ein Gänsehaut - Moment!!
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  • Day 27

    Goodbye Camper Van

    October 3, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We returned the camper this morning. It was a great 15 days, but Randy is definitely ready to sit back and let someone else do the driving. This may be a long post as I will cover our last few days out. We had a great night in Fort William, and before leaving the area, we checked out Neptune Staircase, which is a set of eight locks. We wandered along the tow path and watched a small cruise ship finish the last of the locks. We also saw some really cool small tour boats that take around 10 to 12 people out to the islands. Paddle boards, kayaks, and one even had sailing dingys. We spoke to the captain, and it sounds like a cool adventure trip. After that, we headed to The Ben Nevis Visitor Center and Trail Head. Very informative displays and lots of serious climbers getting ready to head out. There were a variety of climbs from a three or four hour slightly challenging hike to full-on rock climbing and multi day climbs. There is also ice climbing, and the photos were amazing. We took a 30-minute hike just to say we did and chatted with a few people coming down from the first summit. Very beautiful stop. We then headed to Glencoe. The roads were better, two lanes for the most part, but the scenery was still so beautiful. This area of the Highlands felt more welcoming. So lush and green, still lots of drama but a little softer. Glencoe Village was small and so cute. We wandered around and found the MacDonald Memorial. Even though the massacre took place in 1692, we found references to it several times. We stopped at the village store, and the owner said that they still didn't welcome the Campbell's, but there was only one MacDonald left in town. We found an amazing place to park for the night, outside of town, but still in the valley. It was a parking lot for a forest walk, and although just off the road, it felt very secluded. There were about 12 other campers there. We went on a fabulous forest walk and came out at a country inn with the best ever pub. Boots, it was called, and there seemed to be more dogs than people. They were having music that night, but I was too chicken to walk through the woods after dark. We met a lovely couple who were in the same car park who gave us all kinds of information on the area. They were staying for music, but they had a flashlight and a dog to get them home safe. We went back to the camper before dark and had a quiet Saturday night. We weren't sure where we were heading Sunday, so we just started driving. We drove along Loch Lomond, and the sun came out. It's probably the best weather we have had in our time in Scotland. We checked out Luss, and it was very pretty, but it was too early to stop, and we couldn't find a good place to park. We ended up driving all the way to Falkirk, which was going to be our last stop before turning the camper in. We are a day early. We paid for overnight parking at the Falkirk Wheel. This is a pretty amazing piece of technology that uses gravity to lift boats who are traveling the canal system. I believe they said the wheel replaced 11 locks. We watched a narrowboat come down the wheel, and later, a group of paddleboarders went up the wheel and headed down the canal. Very cool. We took a walk along the towpath and found a small pub called Lock 16. It was very old and very quaint. We sat on tiny stools and watched the locals enjoy their Sunday afternoon visiting. Back at the car park, we met a really nice couple from BC who are taking a gap year and shipped their custom-built van from Halifax to Liverpool. They have a year to see as much as they can. The next morning, we experienced our first real challenge with the camper. When Randy tried to start it, nothing happened. The battery was dead. It was strange, though, because the battery monitor was showing it had power. Challenge two was my sim card hasn't been working for calls or texts, just data. I sent an email to Bunk Campers, and we waited for a response. While we were waiting we went to the visitors center to charge my phone and Randy met a lovely couple who lent us their phone. After a number of attempts, we finally connected, and the rental company said they would send someone to give us a boost. I also tried unsuccessfully to get the issues with my sim card fixed. What a frustrating waste of time that was. The couple who lent us their phone insisted on waiting until the camper was running, so we had a lovely visit. They had just completed the NC 500 in their large motorhome and were heading to the Lake District in England. Once we were back running thanks to Kenny from Bunk Campers, we stopped at The Kelpies. These huge metal sculptures honor the role horses played in the development of the area. They are very beautiful and they along with the Falkirk Wheel draw hordes of visitors to the area. We found a lovely county park to spend our last night out and really enjoyed the facilities. For the first time in a week we have had electricity. We definitely wanted it after experiencing battery issues. There was a working farm in the park, so we had a beautiful walk through the fields. Unfortunately, the hairy coos weren't around, but there were lots of sheep to provide entertainment. We cobbled together dinner from all our leftovers and played a few games of cards. All in all, we have really enjoyed our campervan and the freedom it has given us. We had plenty of space, and if anything, we would have gone smaller because of the crazy roads.Read more

  • Day 6

    Showday Edinburgh

    April 19 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We woke up early since our hotel pickup was scheduled for around 7:30 AM. Today was the day we had to sell ourselves as the merch team or at least Gerrity and Yuri did because I'm still juggling two roles on this tour.

    We knew the day would be challenging, though we weren’t quite prepared for how much. Our merch truck couldn’t be moved in until two massive trucks carrying all the stage equipment—lights, sound gear, rigging, subs, and even trees—were unloaded. That took a while. Once we finally got access, we realized all of Eivør’s merchandise was also in our truck since it wasn’t heading to Dublin either. Thankfully, Andy and Egil were there early to move her stuff back to their van.

    Gerrity and Yuri jumped into pulling stock while I worked on a plan for our setup in the tiny space we were given—just 2.5 meters instead of our usual 6. Tight squeeze. But I love having to get creative with the merch booth. With only our grid walls, I managed to make it work and even carved out a bit of extra storage space for the guys.

    Since we needed some cash flow, I ran to the bank and took an extra 20 minutes to catch a quick glimpse of this beautiful town. Even squeezed in some gift shopping!

    At 1:30, I had warrior training, followed by soundcheck. After that, I finished the merch setup and went for a short walk to gather branches and flowers for a new goddess crown

    The ritual itself was incredible. I made just one mistake got distracted by the crowd. And I may have jumped a little too enthusiastically... ended up needing to ice my feet. Quick shower, then back to the merch booth where the guys were still selling, so I joined in to help.

    Breakdown was delayed again due to truck parking logistics, but I had our part packed in 40 minutes and helped the team count and load the truck. We wrapped everything by 1:30 AM, absolutely wiped.

    The rest of the crew wanted to hit a bar, but I had zero energy left. Instead, they brought the party to the bus so I could chill and still be part of it. Had a cozy late-night snack session with Mira in the upstairs lounge. By around 3 AM, it was finally bedtime.
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  • Day 14

    HMY Britannia

    April 17 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    We spent a few hours on Her Majesty’s yacht, the Britannia. My only familiarity with the boat is from the Netflix show, The Crown. The ship is beautiful. Instead of the traditional black, she is painted dark blue and highlighted with a gold stripe the length of the ship. Oddly, her name appears nowhere on the hull. Built in the early 1950’s, the ship was one in a long line of royal ships, going back to the 1600’s. The Britannia was commissioned in 1954 and sailed over a million nautical miles before retiring in 1997. In that time, the boat visited 135 different countries. One of my favorite features was the state dining room, where the walls displayed gifts from different countries. There was woodwork from New Zealand, a peace pipe from America, a carved turtle from the Galápagos, and a miniature stone figure from Easter Island. There interior of the boat was exquisite, while many of the furnishings were more humble. Family photos lined many of the living areas, included 1980’s era Princess Di shots. We were provided an audio tour, which guided us through the ship from top to bottom. The three-masted ship has five decks, with its original steam engines that were never replaced. We toured the living quarters of the royals, with bedrooms, dining room, sun room, and drawing room, as well as the crew’s quarters. The admiral was in charge, and he also had some very nice digs. The ship required a huge crew, including a military band that had to be able to play the national anthem of every country in which they entered their port. In addition to the crew and passengers, the ship carried either a Rolls-Royce or a bit shorter Land Rover. The Rolls was so long that they would need to remove the bumper each time they stowed it.

    In the last 15 years or so, a a tea room was added as part of the attraction. We popped in after the tour to have lunch and tea. Although the day started with clouds and heavy rain, the skies started to clear, as we sat by the large window overlooking the Firth of Forth (which really just feels like a bay that opens to the North Sea).

    We finished our site seeing in Edinburgh’s city center. We stopped into St Giles’ cathedral. Churches have been on this site for centuries, but it now houses a Protestant denomination. It was bustling with tourists inside, which diminished the sacred feel. I just assume that a church is going to be quiet, but this one certainly was not. We left the madness of the church to cross the street. On the corner is a bronze statue of David Hume, born in Edinburgh in 1711. The statue is the dull green blue of bronze except for his toe. Apparently it is good luck to rub his toe, which now gleams golden in the sun. I gave a little rub and hoped his wisdom wears off on me. It’s an unusual tradition given that Hume didn’t believe in superstition or religiosity. I wonder what he would make of his shiny toe.

    As we left the downtown area, we ran across a bagpiper. What a way to finish the day!
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  • Day 14

    Greyfriar's Cemetery (+Misc)

    April 14 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Neat and evocative (and allegedly haunted) cemetery (complete with graves that inspired names of Harry Potter characters). Also some miscellaneous shots from wanderings and from the National Museum of Scotland (the terrace is where the views are from; and Dolly the Sheep, the famous first ever cloned mammal) and St. Giles Cathedral.Read more

  • Day 13

    The Royal Mile and Castle

    April 13 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Including Saint Margaret's Chapel (oldest part of the Castle, survived all the sieges); Saint Giles Cathedral; a couple of the oldest surviving houses on the Mile; and Gladstone's Land (fully furnished preserved merchant's house -- you could actually touch stuff, neat).Read more

  • Day 12

    Edinburgh Reprise

    April 12 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Last time I was in Edinburgh, I had a migraine, so like Bruges, this is an attempted redo :P Featuring Palace of Holyrood, Arthur's Seat; the Vaults (sometimes called the most haunted place in Britain); and a few miscellaneous shots thrown in for good measure :)Read more

  • Day 4

    Rosslyn Chapel

    April 5 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Auch Rosslyn Chapel darf nicht fehlen. Ein immer wieder überwältigender Ort. Die mit wunderschönen Steinmetz-Arbeiten reich ausgestattete Kapelle stammt aus dem 15. Jahrhundert. Tolle Geschichte: es gibt einen besonders kunstvoll gefertigten Pfeiler. Der Steinmetz-Meister reiste nach Italien, um sich Inspirationen für dieses Meisterwerk zu holen. Als er zurückkam, hatte sein Lehrling - basierend auf einem Traum - den Pfeiler gestaltet. Der Meister war so erbost und vermutlich neidisch darüber, dass er den Jungen in der Kapelle erschlug. Dafür wurde er gehenkt. 🫨
    Ich war 1982 das erste Mal hier und Rosslyn war ein verschlafener Ort. Dann kam Hollywood. Vielleicht erkennt jemand von euch die Kapelle? Hier wurde "Der Da Vinci Code" mit Tom Hanks gedreht. Und seither gehen die Besucherzahlen durch die Decke.
    Drinnen darf nicht fotografiert werden, daher die "apprentice pillar" aus der Retorte 🙃.
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