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Zambia Livingstone

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  • Marvin van der GrintenTransafrika Westroute
    1
    Day 245

    Tag 245, 17 Km/34027 Km

    May 1 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Ich tausche die Bremsbeläge. Niemals hätte ich gedacht, dass der Verschleiß in Afrika derart hoch ist, die Beläge sind schon unter dem Mindestmaß von 3 Millimeter. Da die Reifen sowieso runter sind, mache ich die Monatswartung gleich mit. Frisch gewartet und mit neuen Bremsen geht es an die Probefahrt und wo kann man die neuen Bremsbeläge besser einschleifen als bei einer Safari. Es gibt einen kleinen Nationalpark direkt am Sambesi und nicht weit weg von der Campsite. Im Nationalpark gibt es insgesamt 7 Nashörner, die 24 Stunden, 365 Tage lang von Parkrangern mit Maschinengewehren bewacht werden. Die Gefahr, die letzten Nashörner hier an die Wilderer zu verlieren ist einfach zu hoch.
    Um die Tiere zu sehen hat man zwei Optionen. Entweder man zahlt 200€ für eine der geführte 'Rhino-Tour' - die dann von einem der Hotels in der Umgebung startet - oder man fährt einfach zum Parkeingang, besticht die Ranger mit 10 Dollar und bekommt die Position der Nashörner gezeigt. Die Nashörner sind ein Stück weg von der Straße, also führen mich zwei der bewaffneten Ranger zu Fuß in den Wald. Vier Tiere sind anwesend, darunter ein Jungtier. Sich bis auf wenige Meter zu Fuß zu nähern ist einfach unbeschreiblich, kein Zaun, keine Autotür ist dazwischen. Das Horn wurde nicht gekürzt, eine absolute Seltenheit und nur an wenigen Stellen so noch zu sehen. Zumindest von diesen Nashörnern wird sich kein reicher Chinese geriebenes Horn zur Potenzsteigerung auf sein Abendessen streuen.
    Als ich dann zum Auto zurückgehe, steht ein weiteres Tier direkt neben Heiner. Vermutlich bewundert er die neuen Bremsbeläge. Das Nashorn ist mit der Reparatur einverstanden und zerstört nichts am Fahrzeug.
    Ich fahre weiter durch den Park, begegne Geier, Pavian und Elefant, die heute ähnlich nah am Auto stehen wie vor ein paar Tagen, glücklicherweise mit Fressen und nicht mit Aggression beschäftigt sind. Im Nationalpark gibt es eine Geisterstadt, der alte Stadtkern von Livingstone der vor fast 100 Jahren aufgegeben wurde. Ich fahre irgendwann mit fertig eingeschliffener Bremse zurück und werde morgen Livingstone in Richtung Zimbabwe über die Victoria Falls Brücke verlassen. Auch im dritten Aufenthalt hat mich Livingstone nicht enttäuscht. Ich bin ziemlich sicher, dass es noch weitere Reisen hierher geben wird.    Read more

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  • Marvin van der GrintenTransafrika Westroute
    Day 244

    Tag 244, 45 Km/34010 Km

    April 30 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Ich probiere am Morgen zuallererst neue Bremsbeläge zu organisieren. Es gibt eine Landrover-Werkstatt in Livingstone, doch hier hat man die Bremsbeläge nicht vorrätig. Ich probiere es noch bei zwei Ersatzteilhändlern in der Stadt, bei beiden leider das gleiche: 'Out of Stock'. Also wieder zurück zu Landrover und die Bremsbeläge bestellen. Der Verkäufer sagt mir, die Ersatzteile wären morgen Nachmittag da. Ganz sicher! Ich ahne schon, dass daraus 'Morgen Nachmittag in zwei Wochen' werden könnte. Nützt aber nichts, mit den Bremsbelägen komme ich nicht mehr weit. Also bestelle ich die Teile. Anschließend geht es wieder in die Stadt. Es gibt eine kleine Wäscherei in einem Hinterhof, alle Sachen lasse ich waschen. Der riesen Sack wird mit einer geeichten Profiwaage gewogen, anschließend werden die 8 Kilo Wäsche, die hier mit 10 Kilo bezeichnet werden, mir für 20€ angeboten. Viel zu teuer. Wir handeln bestimmt 10 Minuten lang, immer wieder wird zur Sicherheit noch einmal nachgewogen, die Waage zeigt alles zwischen 8 und 12 Kilo an. Ich ziehe den Staub in der Wäsche und das Tütengewicht ab und irgenwann einigen wir uns auf 12€, was eigentlich noch immer zu viel ist. Ich handle noch den Express heraus, alles ist am gleichen Tag fertig.
    Dann geht es zum Victoria Fall. Ich bin extra deswegen ein drittes Mal hergefahren, da ich den Wasserfall am Ende der Regenzeit sehen wollte. Schon vom Parkplatz aus hört und spürt man die Wassermassen, die hier herabstürzen. Mit maximalem Wasserstand ist es natürlich noch einmal beeindruckender, leider ist die herumwirbelende Gischt dermaßen stark, dass der eigentliche Wasserfall kaum zu sehen ist. Es gibt einen Pfad runter bis an den Boiling Pot, wo das herabgefallene Wasser sich zu einem Wirbel bildet, mit der Victoria Falls Brücke rüber nach Simbabwe ist dieser Ort nicht umsonst einer meiner Lieblingsplätze in Afrika. Als ich gerade auf dem Weg zum Auto bin, bekomme ich einen Anruf der Landrover-Werkstatt. Die Bremsbeläge wären verfügbar, wir können uns aber nicht an der Werkstatt sondern nur auf dem Parkplatz eines Supermarktes treffen. Ich ahne schon, weshalb. Die Bremsbeläge sind brandneu und kosten das gleiche wie zuvor abgemacht, der Verkäufer steckt sich das Geld für den Verkauf aber lieber selber ein statt den Verkauf über die Werkstatt abzuwickeln. Wie Pablo Escobar beim Kokainhandel dreht er sich immer wieder nach links und rechts um, möchte auf keinen Fall gesehen werden. Mir persönlich ist egal was er da treibt, hauptsache ich habe die Bremsbeläge.
    Um die Bremsbeläge morgen tauschen zu können, brauche ich Bremsflüssigkeit. Also wieder in die Stadt, Bremsflüssigkeit kaufen. Außerdem muss Heiner dringend gewaschen werden, was auch in Sambia ein Spektakel ist. Die fünf Herren spritzen sich lieber selber mit dem Hochdruckreiniger nass als das Auto, um die Windschutzscheibe zu reinigen klettert einer (immerhin der Dünnste der Runde) auf die Motorhaube. Zu Fünft ist man fast eine halbe Stunde am Auto beschäftigt, sogar der Unterboden wird gereinigt und am Ende möchte man für diesen Service umgerechnet 6€ haben. Zum Glück wurde die Autowäsche anders als bei der Wäscherei am Morgen nicht nach Kilo abgerechnet.    Read more

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  • TravelerAfrica
    Day 21

    Day 21 - Victoria Falls & Zambia

    April 21 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    In the morning, Helen and I walk down to the entry gate for the Victoria Falls. Weather is good and we have been told a good rain coat should be worn because of the water spray from the Falls. We hire two rain coats from this guy called 'bubblegum', yes that is his name. We pay US$3.00 each and then make our way over to purchase an entry ticket.
    The cost of the ticket is US$50.00! That is about AUD$80.
    Bloody ridiculous. They know how to fleece tourists here.
    There are 16 lookout points on the Zimbabwe side of the Falls and 7 on the Zambia side.
    We started on the Zimbabwe side and worked our way around to each viewing point.
    The first impression was the sheer size of the falls. Being one of the largest falls on earth, its width is 1.7 km, and the water drops 108 metres. It's massive! The volume of water from the Zambezi River cascading over the falls is mind-blowing. The other thing you noticed is the noise and the huge plumes of water spray lifting up high into the sky, then falling back to the ground like rain.
    At some viewing points, you couldn't see a thing due to the massive amount of water spray. At other viewing points, you get completely drenched from where the water plumes way up in the sky and falls back down. It's like a massive tropical downpour.
    Once the Zimbabwe side was completed, we went and had lunch at our favourite restaurant and then headed over the border to Zambia. It's a 45-minute walk to cross the border,we had a double entry visa, so the process was simple and without any fuss.
    Zambia also charge an entry fee, but only US$20.00. We loved the Zambia side of the Falls. We were closer to the falls, the noise was deafening, the water spray was soaking, and we both got drenched regardless of our wet weather gear. I liked the Zambia side better, brilliant views. It was a great day out. We ended up walking a total of 23 km for the day. Well worth it.
    Dinner was a the resort. It was our tour groups final dinner together, food and company were good. A good day.    Read more

  • TravelerAround The World 2025
    112
    Day 34–36

    The Smoke That Thunders!

    February 16 in Zambia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Mosi-Ao-Tunya or The Smoke That Thunders, was the name that the Sotho people of Zambia used for centuries for the waterfalls on The Zambezi River. Then, in 1855, David Livingstone was paddled halfway across the river in a dug out canoe by local guides to an island above the falls and having given his own name to the island, he named the falls in honour of his Queen. Victoria Falls was then en route to becoming one of the Seven Wonders of The Natural World.

    Yesterday morning, we found ourselves on the same island having zig zagged across the river in an open speedboat, to take an early morning dip in Angel’s Pool. This small pool on top of Victoria Falls is backed by 2 cascades and has a rock about 1 metre back from the edge, upon which we were promised the photographic and emotional experience of a lifetime.

    A quick change into swimsuits and river shoes was followed with a briefing that included the words, “We have never lost anybody over the top - yet!”. We were then escorted by the kindest, friendliest guides across the island to the entry point amongst the rocks and vegetation that will soon be covered up as the wet season swells the river from now until July.

    Our tour group included 5 twentysomething year old Americans and Australians on their own African adventure who could not have been more blasé about striding towards the edge of the 190 metre drop. We weren’t quite as gung ho but the experienced guides gently escorted us towards the edge.

    And then, we plunged into Angel’s Pool itself. Wow, wow, wow!

    Looking left and right we saw enourmous white plumes of water descending over the sharp, black rock edge, sending voluminous spray high in the air above our heads. As we sank into Angel’s Pool, the water cascaded over us tumbling and washing over our heads as we grinned and grinned at the awesomeness of what we were experiencing. It was actually a little overwhelming to find ourselves in such an absolutely thrilling location doing something that we had never previously considered until the evening before when we decided that a Sunset Cruise on the river would be a tad too gentile for us (plus, 2 families with 6 yappy kids were booking up for the cruise just in front of us).

    Sitting in Angel’s Pool at 9 o’clock on a Monday morning, therefore, surrounded by thunderous water plunging down before us, made this decision the absolute highlight of everything that we have done in Africa thus far. Or perhaps anywhere! As each of our group in turn were invited to sit on the protruding rock on the edge of the cliff, the guides took our phones and snapped a million shots of us sitting, reclining, stretching out and lying backwards over the edge with the epic scenes of Victoria Falls providing the backdrop to every photograph. The final sequence of lying face down involved a guide holding our ankles and whilst we had confidence that he could hold on to Carole’s svelte frame, we weren’t so sure that he would have been too effective in holding my weight.

    The photos prove that I need to get back in the gym but for 30 minutes, nothing else mattered except absolutely relishing every second of being in the most astonishing spot either of us has ever experienced. How lucky we were to get the chance to sit in The Zambezi River on the very cliff edge of Victoria Falls.

    Our trip to Livingstone Island included a delicious breakfast freshly prepared by the head chef with white tablecloths and silver service. All in the middle of the river.

    Quite a start to the week.

    We continued our day with a trip across the bridge that provides the only road and rail crossing between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Proudly, we learned that was built by the lads from Darlington in 1905. This took us to the Zimbabwe side of the river from where we could see three quarters of The Falls themselves and from where we spotted our earlier swimming pool which was part of The Horseshoe Falls. Each of the main cascades are named and we had seen the Zambian side on Sunday and that trip included a 630 meter descent to The Boiling Pot, where the gorge narrows below the falls and underwater rock formations cause the water to, well, boil!

    The Zimbabwean side cost a great deal more to enter and for that we also got to experience first hand the strange fact that the rain forest surrounding the cliffs is the only place in the world where it ‘rains’ 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. At times we had zero visibility because of the height of the spray but the hilarity of being completely drenched below blue skies was great fun.

    Our subsequent rain soaked appearance at one of the poshest hotels in this part of Africa, The Victoria Falls Hotel, didn’t seem to bother the pith helmeted doormen and we spent a lovely hour reviewing the Angel’s Pool photographs, drying off and enjoying a pricey cup of coffee.

    We spent a little over 48 hours in Livingstone, Zambia but on day one we did 3 countries in 6 hours flying in from Nairobi, Kenya and then later that day straddling the midpoint of The Falls Bridge and on day two we had the most unexpected and absolute thrill of a lifetime. If you have a bucket list, make room for Zambia. It is beyond delightful.

    Footnote: We have been hassled for 5 weeks across Africa to buy souvenirs/tat - hats, bangles, paintings, ornaments etc and we have stoically and politely resisted every plea until our last crossing back into Zambia on Sunday afternoon when Carole succumbed. The one dollar wooden hippo that we now own, will do well to travel around the world for the next 10 months! Meet him/her in the photos 😔. Suggestions for a name……..    Read more

  • TravelerAfrican safari to 3 countries
    12
    Day 9

    Rhino “walk”, CAUTION no fences

    November 14, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    OK friends, this is gonna be a longer post and I’m going to actually dictate this post versus painfully type it out. So I can cram more information in while I have time before we head out in half an hour. So expect typos and disjointed sentences and what not. That’s my disclaimer.

    I’d like to tell you a little bit about what’s been happening these last couple days. Every day has been very full. We do have some free time during the early afternoon, but the free time always ends up getting filled up with taking care of living life… So it is actually challenging to fit time in to post videos and pictures and then write about our day. Because the Internet Wi-Fi is very slow, it can take half an hour sometimes to upload any changes. So this morning I skipped an activity so I can be a little more informative on today’s post.

    In the pictures with the rhinos, you may have noticed heavy, scattering of what it would appear to be rhino done. Which it is. We learned that rhinos will pick a certain area in the park that they will use as their bathroom. They don’t just go anywhere as they roam throughout the park. When they need to do the big nasty, they will somehow seem to migrate back to these central areas to do their business. Where we found these rhinos in the two videos and pictures. This is a very common area that they hang out.

    The four armed machine gun, armed century guards that you observed in the videos, those are locked and loaded and they’re there to take out the poachers. In the last Safari that we visited. We actually had a hour and a half lecture by a botanist/ecologist and very educated man who talked to us about poaching and trophy hunting, and the differences. He did not try to persuade us to change our thinking about trophy hunting, but it’s actually very informative and some peoples minds they were, able to see both sides of the same issue. Like one gal said, there’s two sides to thin pancake.

    Personally, I went away from that lecture believing that poachers should be executed & shot on the spot. No questions asked. No court of justice. Just shot. And those armed guards by the way are permitted to do exactly that. And the second opinion that I originally had about trophy, honey, was modified to believe that it can be a good thing.

    The annual revenue for trophy hunting in Zimbabwe is over $20 million. The fee to get a license to shoot one of the big five game animals is anywhere from $30-$70,000. And that is only the beginning for that big game Hunter. By the time he has completed his hunt , he will spend upwards of a couple hundred thousand dollars more easily. For one thing they are not permitted to actually pull the trigger and shoot a lion until the 21st day of the safari hunt. And then they only have another 3 to 5 days to actually execute the kill. And they only get one attempt to make the kill. If they miss that chance, all that revenue paid goes in the kitty and they go home empty-handed.

    60% of that revenue goes to preserve wildlife reserves in Zimbabwe. Of course, portion of that money paid goes to all the people assisting the big game, hunter, including his hunting guide drivers entourage of other support people and vehicles. It’s actually a parade of locals and company the guide. And he has to pay every person $60 minimum per day, depending upon the ranking in the place of the safari and they pay that daily. They pay that daily up to the 21st day when they could begin they kill. So we can get very expensive very fast. Every country in Africa has their own set of rules and conditions. Needless to say every country takes poachers very seriously. But the problem is the governments are all corrupt, and it is presumed that the government leaders are often times paid off to turn a blind eye, allowing a poacher to take down a prized animal.

    A couple comments about the pictures. One picture I show a cloud. Can you see the face in the cloud? I edited that picture by the way, so it original has been altered. Of course, I thought I would include a picture of the two of us. And then there’s a picture of the hippo yawning. That yawn was not eon by the way, but they a threat to us in the two boats to stand clear or he would charge. They walk under water or I should say run water faster than a swimmer could possibly swim so if someone was in the dugout, can you for example, and tipped over in Hippo they could not outswim that charging Hippo. His bite is strong enough to cut a man in half. Second to that of a crock.

    Today we leave for a third safari. We will be there three nights. Then from there, we will leave for a fourth safari. Be there also three nights. And then we will circle back to Victoria Falls, and spend two days there. We will be staying there in a very luxury five-star hotel Minute walk to the falls.

    I think that’s it for friends. I hope you can interpret between my broken dictation and thoughtless grammar, the messages that I tried to convey. Remind me by the way to tell you about overseas adventure travels. And how they relate to the grand Circle foundation. as well as the safari company that they have partnered with. From what we’ve learned about these organizations, we will do our future overseas travel, most likely exclusively through these organizations.    Read more

  • TravelerAfrican safari to 3 countries
    2
    Day 6

    Zambia, Toka Leya Park

    November 11, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Hello friends. I have a little more free time to write today. This is our second day in Zambia. We headed north from Zimbabwe 2 days ago, and are now staying in Zambia’s second smallest (of 20) National Parks.

    We crossed the Victoria Falls Bridge, which was originally called the Zambezi bridge. Victoria Falls is over twice as wide and 1/3 taller than Niagara Falls. It is the world’s largest water fall and one of rhe 7 natural wonders of the world. We are in the drought season now, so the spectacular high volume of water is not at its height. In the winter months of December to March, the volume then, is at its roaring height. Right now, with the drought, the water volume is way down. However, just the geological formations are amazing. We will officially tour the falls at the end of the tour. More to come.

    I included 2 videos today of our visit to the “farmers market”. Where everything is sold from used clothing, fresh produce, all sorts of farm animals to interesting people.

    Where we are staying, there are monkeys that steal food right off a person’s plate, as he’s eating. At first, it was fun to watch how our hosts would keep them at bay. But they are becoming now, more of a nuisance than fun to watch. Our accommodations are 5 star. I will include more pics tomorrow. We are right on the mighty Zambezi River. We are about a mile upstream of the falls. This river has crocodiles and hippopotamus’ so are told not to go down by the waters edge ( or swim in it).    Read more

  • TravelerPérégrinations
    3411
    Day 34

    Les Chutes Victoria

    November 2, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Aujourd’hui, virée aux Chutes Victoria. Ou comment passer 6 fois la douane en 1 jour et visiter 3 pays!

    Les chutes, visitées pour la première fois par un Européen en 1855, ont été nommées par celui-ci, Dr Livingston, en l’honneur de la reine Victoria. Ce sont les plus grandes chutes du monde en superficie et débit…mais pas aujourd’hui 😉! J’avoue que j’avais lu qu’elles étaient complètement à sec. Ce n’est pas vrai! Mais le débit est tout de même beaucoup plus bas et toute une section est tarie. Cependant, le spectacle reste très impressionnant et les filles ont adoré!
    Et voici le bal de tampon de douane: sortie Botswana, arrivée Zimbabwe. On visite les chutes. Il y a des fous qui se baignent dans la Devil’s pool au bord de la chute. Pas pour nous! Et d’autres fous qui font du bungee. Puis on se dirige vers la frontière de Zambie. Tampon sortie Zimbabwe, bienvenue en Zambie. On prend une crème brûlée sur la terrasse du Royal Livingston hôtel, un cinq étoile sur le bord de la rivière Zambezi, juste au bord des chutes. C’est pas mal grandiose, et en plus les girafes et zèbres viennent à nous directement sur le terrain! C’est ça les avantages du 5⭐️.

    Retour vers la douane: sortie de Zambie, bienvenue au Zimbabwe. Puis retour avec notre chauffeur vers le Botswana. Dernier tampon au revoir Zimbabwe et bon retour au Botswana. Ouf, notre passeport est sur le point de prendre en feu!

    Demain, excursion matinale à le recherche de lions! 🦁    Read more

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  • On Safari
    11
    Day 5

    Meeting the Devil!

    August 19, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Oh what a day!
    We set off this morning in a speed boat on a thrilling ride through the river and rocks towards Livingstone Island based at the top of Victoria Falls. Our group of eight was the perfect mixture; all of us apprehensive of what was to come.
    Together, at times hand in hand and others using a rope, we negotiated the slippery rocks to access the edge of the falls. Challenging at times but we all looked out for each other 😀
    Seeing Devil’s pool and the strength of the water was nerve wracking yet exhilarating. Although we all followed the leaders’ instructions the first to go lost their glasses as they entered the pool and they were quickly washed away over the edge! A stark reminder of how easy it would be for one of us to go over 😁
    Sally and I swam over to the edge one by one and sat on a rock near the edge before being guided to the precipice where the other guide took videos and photos of our terrifying but thrilling experience. He stood on the rocks right at the edge with absolutely no safety equipment which caused us greater anxiety than him!
    Getting back to dry land involved us negotiating our way through the slippery pools again using a rope to steady us against the strong current. We were then treated to a delicious local breakfast before coming back to the Lodge for an evening of dominoes, cocktails and another stunning sunset.    Read more

  • On Safari
    1
    2
    Day 4

    We saw Hippos!

    August 18, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We were up early today for a rafting trip along the Upper Zambezi River. We climbed in and set off through the ever changing water currents of this 2700km long river; sometimes really still and others faster and louder. Passing so many different birds including the Open Billed Stork, Jacana, Egyptian Geese and Gross Ibis. We saw evidence of Elephants by the waters edge- apparently they only digest 40% of their food, leaving the baboons and birds to eat the food left in their poo! Further down the river we heard the snorting of Hippos - what an amazing site to see several herds of them, although we stayed a safe distance away! The opposite river banks belong to Zambia and Zimbabwe and good relations between the two meant we could step off and spend some time on the beach in Zimbabwe without having to use our passports! As we came towards the end of the trip we came across a whole family of elephants in the river washing and eating the vegetation. One elephant hit the baby which made the large male roar in anger and protect the baby- all very exciting to watch.
    Back on land we had lunch and headed back to meet our fellow Safari group who all seem really nice- thank goodness.
    We then set off to see Victoria Falls which is quite low in water for this time of year- a consequence of a drought over the last year. The site was still spectacular with the rainbows and mist showing through the crashing water.
    We stopped to buy two small bottles of Fanta. These ended up costing us 26 USD, after making the mistake of allow ourselves to be pulled into their craft stall and buying some souvenirs we haven’t even got room for! 😂 Its’s certainly an experience we will never forgot. Ending the day back at the lodge with a stunning sunset was a perfect end to a fabulous day.    Read more

  • On Safari
    1
    Day 3

    Livingstone

    August 17, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    We arrived in Livingstone, Zambia at lunchtime. Our hotel is right on the Zambezi River and as we drove toward the hotel we came through an elephant corridor in which elephants had cropped the trees in their nightly trek through from Zimbabwe to escape the hunters. Hippos also come through here at nighttime from the river! The views from the outside bar and restaurant are amazing and we have already made good use of the bar with it’s TV screen and football coverage! We got a taxi into Livingstone and walked through the market area then went to a local bakery/cafe for drink and an enormous drop scone! We have booked on some exciting activities over the next couple of days so really really looking forward to that before the safari starts.Read more

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