France
Albi

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    • Day 13

      On the move again, Paris to Albi

      September 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      We had to be up early to catch our train from Montparnasse station to Albi via Toulouse. To ensure we arrived in plenty of time, we booked an Uber. Pierre, our Uber driver, got us there well ahead of schedule so we were able to have an espresso before boarding our TGV to Toulouse. We had been advised by the train company that the Toulouse to Albi regional train was cancelled due to a local strike. We didn’t receive any advice that alternative arrangements had been made until we were 10 minutes out of Toulouse. The replacement busses that had been arranged were scheduled to leave at 2.30 pm so, as we had some time, we grabbed a quick bite at the McDonalds located at the train station before walking the short distance to the bus station.

      Finally we were all on the crowded bus and on our way to Albi. We were dropped off at the train station and found a little shuttle bus that took us about half the way to our hotel. We then had to walk the rest of the way through the centre of the city over cobblestones to get to our hotel. Poor Brigitte was a bit hot and bothered by the time we arrived.

      We checked into our hotel, The Mercure Albi Bastides. The hotel is situated in an old building right on the river Tarn, and has wonderful views back over to the old city centre. We had an easy evening, starting with a pre-dinner drink at the bar and dinner out on the terrace. Here we had sensational views over the river and old city as the sun set. We tried the local wine which comes from the Gaillac region located close to Albi. It was delightful and very reasonably priced. Tomorrow we begin to explore the city with a food tour booked for the morning.
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    • Day 7

      Ein gemütliches Ziczac durch Frankreich

      March 17, 2023 ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Wir starten erst mittags gegen 12h. Aber wir haben es auch nicht eilig. Erster Halt ist schon eine Stunde später in Albi. Das letzte Mal war ich zu Covid Zeiten mit Timon und Lina hier. Zur Besichtigung der Kathedrale gab es lange Warteschlangen, so dass wir darauf verzichtet hatten.
      Heute ist alles menschenleer und wir finden sogar durch Zufall gleich um die Ecke einen Parkpkatz. Wir besuchen die Kathedrale und schlendern anschließend durch die Altstadt, die einen Besuch wert ist. Dabei entdecken wir einen schönen Kreuzgang einer versteckten kleinen Kirche.

      Génis hat uns vom Viaduct von Millau erzählt, einer beeindruckenden Autobahnbrücke. Also noch einen Abstecher in den Osten. Vielleicht liegt es am kalten Wetter und dem starken Wind - wir halten nur kurz am Aussichtspunkt. Auf die Suche nach dem Museum verzichten wir und fahren noch eine Weile weiter Richtung Zentralmassiv. In Laissac finden wir schließlich bei Sonnenuntergang einen Stellplatz mit geöffneter Toilette.
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    • Day 14

      Toulouse Lautrec Museum

      September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      This afternoon as the temperature starting climbing we headed to the Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec museum. Since 1922, the Berbie Palace, the former residence of Albi’s bishops, has housed a wonderful collection of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, that was predominantly donated by his family.

      Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi in 1864 into a wealthy family. His father Count Alphonse de Toulouse-Lautrec and his mother, Adèle Tapié de Céleyran, were first cousins. Henri’s fragile constitution and the genetic illness he suffered from that resulted in him having very short legs was more than likely the result of this intermarriage.

      From an early age Toulouse-Lautrec showed an interest in drawing and sketching. There were long periods during his childhood that he spent recovering from a range of treatments. Early on he enjoyed sketching and drawing animals and landscapes and activities from everyday life. In Paris, his first tutor was a friend of his father’s, animal painter René Princeteau, with whom he perfected his study of animal features, especially horses.

      René recommended him to Léon Bonnat’s free studio - he was a famous portraitist and history painter. He also was a pupil of Fernand Cormon, where he met many students who would become avant-garde painters like Louis Anquetin, Emile Bernard and Vincent Van Gogh. Like them, he was attuned to modern and avant-garde movements that were sweeping through painting.

      Lautrec devoted his spare time to making portraits and journal illustrations. These early portraits are influenced by Impressionism - outdoor portraits, characters captured in their everyday life, a palette of light and bright colour applied with large strokes.

      Prostitution was a recurrent theme in the 19th century, both in painting and literature. Like Edouard Manet, Edgar Degas, Louis Anquetin or Vincent Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, took an interest in this subject. He focused on depicting the prostitutes’ daily life, that were free of voyeurism but with tenderness. Apart from a few bawdy sketches he minimised the sexual aspect and endeavoured to depict the daily life, behaviours and to unveil the sensuality of typical gestures of these women that only an artist living among them could do.

      In 1891, when Toulouse-Lautrec was becoming known as an illustrator of the Montmartre types, Moulin Rouge’s directors Joseph Oiler and Charles Zidler commissioned him his first poster: Moulin Rouge, La Goulue, in which he offered a striking view of the attraction of the moment: the “cancan”. The poster was a huge hit and still is to this day. This success prompted Toulouse-Lautrec to focus on the creation of posters and more widely of lithographs. Between 1891 and 1900 he created 31 posters and around 325 lithographs that gave him the opportunity to become better known to a wider public. They were made with as much attention to detail as his paintings.

      From 1898 until his death on September 9th, 1901 in Gironde, Toulouse-Lautrec endured a difficult time due to illness and substance abuse. For a short period he was committed to a clinic in Neuilly in May 1899. On his release he was supported by his publishers and closest friends. He continued to produce works until his death.
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    • Day 11

      Albi Day 1

      June 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

      Today we walked around the old town of Albi. The cathedral here, like the Basilica in Lyon, is ever present above the city, but not for the same reason. In Lyon, it's perched on a hill, but in Albi, it is a monstrous fortress with a very tall steeple. It claims to be the largest brick structure in the world. Behind it is the former bishop's palace and a lovely garden. While Albi has a new and modern part of the city, the old town, from the Medieval and Renaissance periods, is well maintained and thriving. Another church, Saint-Salvi, is even older than the cathedral, completed in its current form in the 1200s. You can see the bell tower was later added onto with bricks. There is a nice trail along the river we plan to walk on later.Read more

    • Day 44

      Cordes su Ciel

      June 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      This morning we drove out north-west of Albi for about 20 kms to a very pretty medieval town called Cordes su Ciel (Cordes in the sky). This medieval town was very protected and ever so steep to walk up to. As it was Monday morning a lot of the shops were closed so it made it better to avoid tourists. It was so authentic having several doors to the city, a market hall which was set up for trade and is completely preserved. Clearly the locals who live here have to be prepared to live with antiquated conditions. We enjoyed a coffee and shared a small crepe. The streets were very cobbled and somewhat difficult to walk on but it was a lovely morning and we returned easily to have our lunch at home. We are enjoying this for a change! A field of poppies along the way was really pretty.
      After lunch and a little rest I managed to get my nails done thank goodness as Tatiana couldn't speak English and my French was rudimentary.
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    • Day 15

      Delights of Albi

      September 28, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We had a late start this morning as we had decided to take ourselves on a self-guided tour of the old city. On the way over we stopped at a Patisserie that Nastia had recommended. Cedric Millet creates delicious patisserie and Ian and I sampled a couple of his creations with a coffee. Mine was fig and rosemary and Ian’s was apricot and anise. Cedric likes to include different herbs and spices in his creations, and afterwards he asks you to guess which herb or spice he has used. We didn’t guess correctly.

      We then wandered over the old bridge and made our way to the old town to just explore the narrow streets and alleys. We discovered the place where Toulouse-Lautrec was born, which is now a restaurant and also the house where the French explorer Laperouse lived. There is a suburb in Sydney named after Laperouse. His ships arrived off Botany Bay in January 1788, shortly after the First Fleet, and stayed there for six weeks. This was their last known sighting on land as the ship was wrecked somewhere in the Solomon Islands and all hands lost after they departed.

      After wandering around for a couple of hours admiring the old buildings, we went to the lovely hidden Place du Cloître Saint-Salvy for lunch . Then it was back to the hotel for some relaxing, before we headed out for dinner. If it seems like we are eating and drinking a lot, I can confirm we are. We are trying to walk as much as we can to balance things out!
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    • Day 42

      Apartment and evening walk

      June 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Above are some photos of the apartment which is really spacious and decorated in a very quirky manner. This evening we set out mainly looking for a gelati which we found just around the corner and it was delicious. However we have made it to the centre of Albi and seen many of the amazing UNESCO heritage 12th and 13th century buildings including the cathedral which we will have a closer look at tomorrow. We are hanging around because there is some sort of event about to happen to do with fire and music and a lot of drinking and eating. It seems like all the locals are here waiting in anticipation. We certainly heard folk music and saw the locals dancing and the fire was going to happen later on.Read more

    • Day 14

      Albi Food Tour

      September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      This morning we took a food tour of Albi. We met our guide Nastia at the Cathedral. The tour took us through the old and newer parts of Albi and we also learnt a bit about the history of Albi and the surrounding area.

      Architecturally, Albi is a wonderful city as there is so much to see. Most of Albi’s buildings are made from brick, including the Cathedral Sainte-Cécile, which is the largest brick cathedral in the world. It was built after the Albigensian crusades to crush the heretic Cathars, and intended to intimidate the locals and express the power of the Bishops.

      Our first food stop was for pastries (an Apple filled one and a Kouign-annan from Brittany) and coffee at Maison Janin, an Artisan Boulanger, who is originally from Brittany where my mother, Mimi, hails from. Next we visited a wonderful store, Delices Lamarque, full of local and vintage products from the surrounding area. We sampled a vegetable paste (carrot, celery, tomatoes & spices) on slices of baguette as well as pork and herb terrine, washed down with a local Gaillac dry white wine.

      We then made our way to Cloître Saint-Salvy, a little haven hidden away in the centre of town. From there we made our way to the Covered Market where we sampled cheese with Thierry and wine from Domaine Carcenac with Ettiene. We sampled five delicious cheeses and two wines. I tried a dry white - Blanc Sec Gaillac and a full bodied red.

      We then headed to Le Quai Choiseul - Cuisine De Terroir restaurant, which is run by brothers Hervey and Julian, for a traditional lunch of Aligot and Toulouse sausage, also washed down with a glass of red.

      After lunch, Nastia finished the tour by taking us to the oldest part of the city to see some lovely old houses and narrow streets that were full of character. It was a fabulous tour and a great way to get an introduction to the beautiful city of Albi. The tour was also memorable because of Nastia’s knowledge, enthusiasm and fun personality.
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    • Day 22

      Lunch with friends b4 touring

      June 10, 2015 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      So before we visited downtown Albi we were invited over to some friends house for a full family 5 COURSE lunch! It was delicious. And of course u tell ppl u play guitar they wanna hear u play haha? good times with new friends...only in france can u drink 54% proof whiskey at 1pm and its totally cool! ??? btw...best whiskey ever. Period.Read more

    • Day 17

      The LONG train south

      June 5, 2015 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      So, we left our amazing friend Ingrid on Friday morning at the butt crack of dawn ? and we took a train due south down to the town of Albi. The train ride was supposed to be 7 hours long...but 1hour into it, the train stops because if "technical difficulties" at least that's what the people in the train cabin with us translated for us. They were very nice, Polynesian people from a place near Australia called Wallis and Futuna. A French colony apparently. But anyway so the train gets delayed for 2 hours. Not too mention it was like a sauna ?? so hot! They ended up giving us free food boxes cuz of the extended time. Eventually we finally made it, I think I had to peel myself off the seat since I was glued with sweat lol. Adventures adventures, gotta take them as they come. Cest La Vie!Read more

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