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Département du Cantal

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    • ViaggiatoreWalking the Camino
      3
      Giorno 26–27

      Day 26 - Aubrac to St Come d’Olt

      17 maggio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      We walked into Aubrac and spotted a swankey Brasserie so booked a meal for later. We then checked into our accommodation ‘La Dômerie’ a Chambre de hotes of very high quality. Wonderful to have sheets provided and not to have to use our sleeping pods. The hotel was a wonderful old building that had been kept in a traditional manner.
      We went for our meal which again was in a room of fantastic character with all kinds of quirky furniture, ornaments and art. It had a wood burning stove in the middle which was delightful as we arrived but soon made us very warm indeed.
      After a good sleep went down for a lovely breakfast in the charming dining room - a great selection including fruit salad, fresh croissants, cheese and ham. We left feeling buoyant and ready for a day on the road. A good job too as we had 24 km to get through.
      It was a tough slog as at least 15 of the km were a steep descent over gullies filled with rocks that really hammer your feet.
      We went through the medieval village of Chely d’Aubrac and stopped for coffee. Our lunch stop was in the hamlet of Lestrades where the locals had put hot drinks in a barn in a help yourself basis.
      The rain, thunder and lightning started as we approached our accommodation for the night - the Convent de Malet - where we were welcomed by 2 of the sisters. The convent is a big, old roomy building with a great wooden staircase and well oiled policies and philosophies. It can accommodate up to 60 pilgrims a night.
      After putting bags into room and freshening up we hobbled into town while we had the energy. Sadly most places were shut til 7 except the bakery and local snack bar. We dined on paninis and offered to buy one for another pilgrim travelling with his dog. This turned out to be Roman, a 29 year old Czech Republic guy who said he sometimes walks up to 40 km a day😳 and lives outdoors relying on the kindness of The Way.
      Had a good hour or so with him listening to his tales and philosophies, he had very gentle, spiritual eyes - probably a psycho 😆 - only joking. We sent him on his way with some provisions from the bakery and €10 - he was very happy and we had hugs all around before heading back to our convent for showers and chilling before bed in prep for 20 km tomorrow.      Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreFrance and Germany 2024
      412
      Giorno 8

      Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals

      26 aprile, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Very upmarket buffet, and then David, the joint-manager (with his brother- the family has run the hotel since 1928) took it upon himself to solve the luggage issue. He rang the same people on the same number, but was not taking no for an answer, and decided the solution was for the case to go to the Post office ( if it wasn't there) and for La Malle Postale to pick it up (likely tomorrow) and take it to our hotel for tomorrow. Lots of animated phone calls later he assured us it would be done, and sent us off. We were hoping but not convinced.

      Today was along day - 27km officially, but 30km or so as both hotels were away from the town centres. It was drizzling as we left in the new ponchos (which worked well) and Saint Craig of Kiama had lent me a pair of waterproof over-trousers which he said were too big for him (he of umbrella yesterday). They probably were too big, as they were big for me. They were a godsend.

      The country was grey because of the clouds, but everywhere were long, low stone walls, green fields, or paddocks with daffodils, and small woods. Most of the track was a walkway between paddocks, but we were on rural roads now and then. That was better than the boggy sections: they were horrendous after just a little rain, so I can only imagine WWI.

      Unfortunately the sleet and rain began in earnest around 1015, and kept on until around 2pm, along with a gale. I doubt my chinos would have survived the mud, or have dried out by dinner. We were warm enough under the ponchos, but fingers number quickly, and stayed numb until the wind stopped, or the rare burst of sun. Having said that, it wasn’t too bad with the ponchos and waterproof boots: we could walk along quickly without getting hot.

      We went through a few hamlets, but no villages or towns, but made good time because it was too windy , wet and cold to stop except inside, and the few little cafes we saw were crowded, or in the open. We saw a man with a Phileas Fogg type contraption harvesting daffodils in the driving sleet... unsuccessfully, though, as he seemed to spend as much time under the machine as on it. Maybe he was sheltering?

      Nasbinals is a lovely old village with grey/fawn coloured stone houses, all with rooves made of flat rocks.

      Dinner was in the town rather than the hotel, and the same local specialties that Rosie and Amr had nearly 10 yrs ago - very good. Aligot (mashed potato plus cheese and garlic - consistency of play-dough) was a sight to behold, and very tasty.

      Just before we went we had an email from David, the Aumont-Aubrac manager, with a small glitch: the bag was delivered to the Le Puy post so late that it could not be collected today, and the Post is closed all weekend (plus perhaps Monday as a public holiday) so it will not be collected by la Malle Postale until Tuesday, and hopefully early enough then for it to be delivered to us where we will be that night - a town called Golinac. Four more days of only one pair of pants and shoes instead of one day more...but a timeline that ought to be achievable.

      Hotel is a branch of a family hotel business. 1. Opened at 4... but if you knew your room number you could take your key and go in anyway. 2. Wifi, soap, but no tea or coffee. 3 Great view over open fields 4. bed seems okay

      41,520 steps, 32.6km and 44 flights.      Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreWalking the Camino
      Giorno 25–26

      Day 25 - Finieyroles - Aubrac

      16 maggio, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      La Rose d’Aubrac was a lovely gite but Simon struggling more and more with the communal meals 😳
      We were treated to a bland veg soup, truffelade ( kind of bubble and squeak with cream, garlic and cheese) and apple confit. Then Simon allowed to thankfully escape.
      We were only English speakers so was a challenge- but we were made to feel welcome.
      Up early for bread, jam and coffee. Then once more onto the Aubrac plateau. A place of solitude, bird song, flowers and lots of streams to breach. Really reminding us of Yorkshire moorlands and in places the Isle of Man 🇮🇲
      We came through sunshine, wind, hail and rain - thank goodness for my new poncho 😆
      Stopped in the quaint town of Nasbinals for a lovely sandwich and got an extra stamp on our credentials (pilgrims passports). 19 km later we have now arrived in Aubrac and are sitting viewing beautiful scenery waiting to check in at tonight’s digs.
      Simon tried the local drink pastis on our wet rest day - it’s rather like Greek ouzo!!
      He’s going for it again today!!      Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreWalking the Camino
      2
      Giorno 24–25

      Day 23/24 - Aumont Aubrac - Finieyrols

      15 maggio, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      We are very glad yesterday was a rest day as it bucketed it down with rain all day and we saw some very wet pilgrims. We got our laundry done then headed out for a slap up lunch. After exploring a few grumpy venues we ended up back at our fave restaurant from the day before. We were well looked after by our cheerful waitress. We had to leave our sopping coats in the barn next door. However when we went to retrieve them only Simon’s nuclear yellow anorak remained 😳
      I had to knock on the window as they had locked up. They found a replacement in a drawer which ended up being much better than the one that had disappeared!!😂
      Up early this morning- 1 toilet between 8!!
      Had petit dejeuner, tidied up the little cottage and hoofed it off into a drier day.
      Our path took us up onto the Aubrac plateau. There was a steady stream of pilgrims that the Plodicus picked off group by group with Mary steadily bringing up the rear.
      The plateau had lots of daffodils and looked very much like Derbyshire and Yorkshire moors.
      16km done and we rest in a little hamlet called Finieyroles for the evening. We are 3 hours early for check in so ‘just hanging around’ watching pilgrims drift in and out.      Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreFrance and Germany 2024
      2
      Giorno 7

      Les Faux to Aumont-Aubrac

      25 aprile, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      We did not wake up until around 6;45 - probably physically and otherwise worn out - but breakfast was not until 7;30 and Thomas had said he would call the Parcel People at 8am, which is the deadline for dropping off luggage. We packed our one bag, which is unzipped to its fullest to take everything we don't want to carry each day, and went to breakfast with it. Air France is a disaster, but there is a service - La Malle Postale - that collects bags from hotels in the mornings and delivers them in the afternoons, and seems to be as good as Nico's proverbial Mongolian Yam. So far for us it has been faultless.

      The good Thomas went into action when there was a lull in checkouts. After much calling and waiting, he told us that it appears that Air France gave our bag to its agent, who gave it to the local postal service, who tried to deliver it (allegedly) yesterday afternoon to the hotel in Le Puy, and who can or will do no more than try to deliver it to the same place today. The local post is probably linked genetically to Air France, so I am not confident that anything they say about the past, present or future is true, but pilgrims can't be choosers. The deal (as at 1600 on Thursday 25 April ) is that the bag is delivered to the hotel, and then picked up tomorrow morning and delivered to our hotel for tomorrow, as arranged with the tour operator, for 45 Euro... which seems good value for everything involved. The only catch is the postal service...and it is very French...

      UPDATE 8pm. Stupid us. Of course they did not deliver the bag. No excuses, no explanations. They simply lied this morning. The receptionist here rang for us and the latest "information" (being French, the "dis" is silent) is that they will deliver it tomorrow, but they will not say when, nor where it is, in case we wanted to pick it up - only that there is only one point in the world it can go to, which is the hotel to which they would not take it. It's Anzac Day. Is this what those people fought for? Am I bitter, twisted and frustrated? Yep.

      Anyway, we started off around 9am today and it was cold and threatening. We had spray jackets on (and also had an umbrella and some cycling sleeves for warmth, courtesy of a sympathetic Australian couple at the hotel), but there was no rain or snow to speak of all day. Through a forest, down to a small town, then farming land and trails through woods, and the occasional small hamlet or farmhouse. The people in the farmhouses must be heartily sick of tourists walking right past their windows and doors for 9 months of the year. We went through only one or two villages/ hamlets on the way, but one (Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole) had a war memorial and a cannon, which seemed right for Anzac Day. The town also had a small, old, deserted chateau, which looked cold and empty, and the smelliest WC in Europe.

      We reached Aumont-Aubrac around 245. It is a small town/large village, but very pretty. The hotel is modern, but c 700m from the centre. We have not yet decided whether to have dinner here or in town... an extra walk, but we choose our own time.

      Went for a walk into town at 5pm. Found a store with rain ponchos and warm gear, and a very honest owner ("don't buy that-doesn't work"). A 12th c church, narrow streets with the occasional massive delivery 26 wheeler truck, Anne found a boulangerie etc

      Chez Camillou Hotel (Logis chain) does well. 1 It was open before 3pm and has soap, wifi, coffee and tea and a good bed. It is quite new/modern.
      2. very helpful receptionist who called for us trying to get an answer from the Air France baggage black hole.

      36,721 steps, 28.8km and 63 flights.      Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreWalking the Camino
      5
      Giorno 22–24

      Day 22 - St Albans s l to Aumont Aubrac

      13 maggio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Last night we wandered around St Albans Sur Limagnole - we decided we weren’t particularly hungry after our earlier feast of chicken and chips 😆
      Thunder and lightning started rolling around so we hurried back to our lovely room just beating the torrential rain that followed 💦
      An easy going start with help yourself breakfast facilities - then off once more this time to the town of Aumont Aubrac.
      We headed out of town via the local spar! Stocked up on some fruit then hit the first hill of the day!
      We are now 1165 metres or 3415 feet above sea level on the Aubrac plateau. The place was covered in snow 2 weeks ago! We don’t want a repeat of this 🤞🙏
      We walked just under 16 km to lovely vistas on a sunny day with a cooling breeze.
      We hit town for lunch where there was quite a gathering of pilgrims all bonjouring each other.
      Mary tried out the local specialty‘aligot’ a type of mashed potato with garlic and cheese- it was lovely.
      We went to find our accommodation and for the first time we weren’t on the list despite booking a few months ago!! The hostess was apologetic and fortunately has another accommodation just around the corner. It is a charming old house with green shutters so hasn’t worked out too badly.
      Tomorrow is a rest day so we’ll chill catch up with the plans for the next few days and probably a trip to the local launderette!!!
      We have our own bathroom but a shared toilet and the kitchen is just off our room so could be noisy in the morning 🌅
      Simon is concerned that Man City are going to blow the title and the FA cup - however apparently Halifax finished 7th in the national league so all is not lost!!      Leggi altro

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    • Iberische Halbinsel
      1
      Giorno 92

      Cantal Auvergne

      28 giugno 2022, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      Auf der Fahrt durchs Zentralmassiv machen wir Halt im mittelalterlichen Salers, das ganz aus schwarzem Vulkangestein erbaut ist. Viele Künstler und Handwerker haben hier ihre Ateliers. Auch wir machen noch einige Einkäufe da wir in ein paar Tagen wieder zurück in der Schweiz sein werden. Dieses Mal können wir, den im Frühling noch geschlossenen, Pas de Peyrol befahren, zwar leider im Nebel versteckt. Der etwas tiefere gelegene Pas de Serre ist nebelfrei und wir finden einen traumhaften Platz zum Übernachten. Am nächsten Tag glänzt die ganze Kette der Puys im Sonnenschein und wir frühstücken mit einer Aussicht wie KönigeLeggi altro

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    • Roland GrütterJakobsweg
      Giorno 41

      36. Wandertag

      29 aprile 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Start heute morgen war sehr nass. Der Tag danach durchzogen. Gestern habe ich noch einige Sachen gewaschen. Ich mache jeweils von Zeit zu Zeit eine Handwäsche weil die Sachen nach Pilger riechen. Heute war wieder alles feucht. Ja alles gehört dazu, am Morgen mache ich jeweils noch einige Dehnungsübungen. Elsbeth würde wahrscheinlich lachen wenn sie mich sehen würde wie ich auf dem kleinen Duschtüchlein knie. Danach werden allerlei Salben aufgetragen und danach versuche ich meinen Wassertank aufzufüllen und trinke einen Liter Wasser, erst dann gehe ich zum Morgenessen. Ganz wichtig danach der Gang zur Toilette und hopp auf den Weg.
      Heute übernachten wir in Montredon.      Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreDer Weg nach Santiago
      11
      Giorno 73

      Aubrac und die Turmherberge

      12 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

      Durch endlosen Regen geht es über die endlose (bei gutem Wetter bestimmt noch viel schönere) Hochebene weiter in den mittelalterlich wirkenden Ort Aubrac. Hier erwartet mich die nächste Überraschung: meine Herberge für heute Nacht ist in einem richtigen Turm untergebracht!Leggi altro

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    • ViaggiatoreDer Weg nach Santiago
      11
      Giorno 73

      Im Regen nach Nasbinals

      12 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Natürlich bleibe ich auch heute nicht verschont und es beginnt bald wieder zu regnen. So erreiche ich, neugierige Kühe und endlose, gatschige Wege passierend, gegen Mittag den Ort Nasbinals. Hier gibt es wieder einmal die letzte Einkaufsmöglichkeit bis morgen, also stocke ich noch für das Abendessen auf.Leggi altro

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