Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

Today we didn’t swan in at 2.30 and have the afternoon to relax and explore…we staggered in at 5, a long time, but only 22 kms - it was hard work rather than long distance! And we did pause a few times - for lunch, for coffee/chocolate, to help rescue a dog, and when we looked at the Devil’s Bridge and got a little off course! But we survived, and actually our legs are feeling good and we’ve just come back from exploring the village which is on the side of a hill, and extremely charming. Very much a tourist place, but also deservedly one of the plus beaux villages de France.

We left Montpellier at about 9 and were driven to Montarnaud (not by Cyril but by Cyril’s friend!). So we set off and found that the climb that we knew was ahead was on very difficult paths - loose stones, just such slow progress…once we reached the top it wasn’t too bad…we went along the top of a plateau, sometimes loose stones, but sometimes easier terrain …it was completely different countryside from previously - we were up in the wild rocky hills, sort of Cézanne territory…not tall lush forests, rather scrubby bushes and trees…but wildly beautiful.

We stopped for lunch when we were about half way there by our reckoning, about 1 or later.. there was, according to the Book, meant to be a choice to take the GR or a short cut through an old railway tunnel for 300 metres…but the choice never happened as we just followed GR signs (which then were along an ex railway line, so it was flat but now a path of more loose stones) and never saw mention of the tunnel, however we were happy to arrive at the next village, which was for once awake and there was a choice of bars to pause and have coffee!

After that we had an amazing section of walking through vineyards - suddenly this wild area was filled with myriads of picturesque vineyards…so beautiful, and we felt that the end was in sight…we thought (hoped) it was about 5 kms to go, and when we saw a village coming up, we assumed it was ours.

So we happily walked along, saw quite a few walkers along the route, being a beautiful Sunday afternoon. We came upon one group of 4 walkers having trouble - their dog had jumped into the canal and couldn’t get out, and they couldn’t reach him…he was just dog paddling and waiting for help! There were sloping concrete edges, and he kept sliding. In the end Amr suggested using some fence-railings lying there from workers, and they managed to put it down and use it as a sort of ladder and pull the poor dog out! Very grateful to Amr for the idea…

Then we came to the Pont du Diable, the Devil’s bridge, a big feature on the map, historic bridge, and the town just above…I went off the official route to go on the bridge, and look at the view (we are now in an enormous spectacular gorge)…then we suddenly saw the signs to the town and realised it was another one, that was several inches away on the map from our destination!! Such disappointment!

Our dog friends were horrified and said that is an hour’s walk!! We said we had been walking since 9.30, and would be ok…and it was, but it did seem endless, along the shoulder of a rather busy road most of the time, everyone going home after their Sunday doings. There was canoeing in the gorge, people had been sunbaking on the banks seen from the Devil’s bridge….we are now half way up the gorge here, the running river way below at the bottom, and towering rocky cliff faces above. Amazing changes in one day.

Finally we found this delightful village, our hotel was the first one we saw, so happy to arrive, bags in room and all good. And now back from a perfect meal here (included tonight), and ready for bed. AND I forgot to say, that while wandering in the village, we got Amr a hat! Very funny, made in Nepal (better than the other cheaper and more normal looking ones made you know where!Read more