France
Vermenton Railway Station

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    • Day 51

      The Vermenton Mill House

      October 7, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      After the incredible 8 course dinner (or was it 9 ?) we had last night, I was rather sad to be leaving Joigny. In the short time we had spent at Le Rive Gauche Hotel, we had all fallen a little in love with the place. The town is situated in an idyllic location on the serene Yonne River, and the centre of the old city was very inviting.

      Maggie and I decided to spend our last few hours in this city walking to the market. Although it was quite large, the range of goods was very similar to those peddled in just about every other market around the world - cheap clothes, handbags, Chinese toys and other so called "handicrafts".

      We had also hoped to find somewhere selling SIM cards for my mobile phone, but the combination of poor language skills and unhelpful staff made this an impossible task.

      Back at the hotel we checked out and waited outside for the taxi that had been ordered to take Maggie and Carol to the station. The rest of us formed a walking peloton and walked the one and a half kilometres. Somehow we managed to arrive about 90 minutes early, and had a long wait in the sun for the train to arrive.

      Fortunately the train was not very busy, and we only had to make it as far at the next station, where we would transfer to a bus instead. The train part went smoothly enough, but when we climbed off at the platform, we were met by utter chaos.

      There was a huge throng of people, all trying to clamber down the stairs to reach the connecting buses. I can never understand why a country that can build such incredible railways, cannot spend a few extra dollars to install more lifts and/or escalators in their stations.

      Since Maggie was incapable of handling her luggage, due to her bad back, I was struggling to manhandle all our luggage by myself. Just at the moment I was about to panic, I was assisted by a friendly stranger who grabbed the back end of one of the cases and helped me down the stairs. It really was hugely appreciated.

      When we found the buses, the chaos grew even worse. People were climbing on and off buses in seemingly random fashion. The SNCF railway even had three armed officers to oversee the mess (the officers did not have three arms, I mean they were carrying weapons).

      it was starting to look like we would be standing up in the bus for the 60 minute journey to Vermenton, but somehow it all came good in the end as it mostly does. When we finally stumbled onto the correct bus, we found that it had plenty of seats, and it was nicely air conditioned.

      About 70 minutes we arrived at Vermenton Station and were met by a guy who had been arranged to transfer our luggage to La Moulinette. The rest of us would be walking.

      We have booked into this converted Mill House for the next 7 days, and are so looking forward to having almost nothing to do for that time, apart from rest, read and eat. Greg and Andrea had stayed in this very location 17 years ago, and had recommended it to us.

      It did not take long for us to decide that the place was ideal. The location is as serene as you could imagine, and the ivy-covered exterior was picture perfect.
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    • Day 55

      A Snake in the Grass

      October 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      The unbroken run of perfect days has continued with no end in sight. Each day dawns cool and clear, and then gradually heats up to a top temperature of around 28 C by the late afternoon. I cannot remember the last time we had wind, and, in some ways, it feels like we are immersed in some sort of idyllic Ground Hog Dog, where each day is a repeat of all those perfect days that came before.

      This morning we headed off to discover new areas of the village that we had not explored before. We soon found ourselves at a Roman Laverie (wash house). This place had been heavily restored, but it served to give a good indication of what life might have been like in this area around 2000 years ago.

      After the wash house, we made our way to the Gare (station) to try out the village's other cafe - the Cafe de la Gare. It turned out to be a much more pleasant experience than the one we had shared the previous day. The street was quiet and tree lined, and the proprietress seemed happy to see and serve us.

      On the return walk we found that the quiet little village had burst into life. Several shops which had been closed since we arrived last Saturday, had now opened. There were even people in the streets. It was quite a surprising transformation.

      It was only as we were walking up the drive to the mill house that we received the biggest surprise of all. Without warning, Maggie let out a huge shriek and pointed to the path ahead. I thought at first that she may have seen a small spider or something. When I finally located the object of her terror, it really was not what I was expecting. Slithering across the path was a quite large, pale brown snake. I had to admit that it did give us a bit of a shock, however the fellow obviously meant us no harm. In fact, he was quite beautiful.
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    • Day 57

      Picnic in Accolay

      October 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      With only one full day remaining in Vermenton, we had to decide how we would use that time wisely. Due to Maggie's injured back, we had been rather restricted in how far we could walk from the mill house.

      This morning we awoke to yet another perfect day, and Maggie actually felt that her back was a little better. It was finally time to try out a longer walk.

      About 2 km from Vermenton, is another small village called Accolay. Some of the others in our group had already made the walk, and encouraged us to see it for ourselves. So that is what we did.

      After first walking to our friendly boulangerie for supplies, we then packed a picnic lunch and set out. The path begins at the millhouse, and then meanders through farmland before following the lovely Canal d'Accolay to the village itself.

      Our first impressions of the village were that it was much better maintained than Vermenton. The paths were clean, the bridge recently repaired and the houses were almost all in good condition.

      After enjoying a coffee (1 euro a cup) at the caravan park, we then found a picnic table by the canal to enjoy our lunch. It was a perfect way to spend our final day.

      In the evening we all walked to Vermenton's only pizza shop for a delicious pizza dinner. Tomorrow the weather is predicted to finally break, with the top temperature forecast of 16C. That happens in Europe when summer finally ends and winter arrives in a hurry. We can't really complain, as we have enjoyed an unbelievable run of perfect weather, almost from the first day we arrived in Amsterdam.
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