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  • Day89


    August 5 in France

    Heute sind wir eine deutlich kürzerer Strecke von 360km gefahren. Auf der Fahrt hat Viki schonmal die Bilder sortiert, dann wäre das schonmal erledigt. Der Campingplatz liegt auf einer Insel in einem Fluss auf die man über zwei Brücken gelangt. Nachdem die erste wegen einem Radrennen gesperrt ist, versuchen wir zur zweiten zu kommen um dann festzustellen, dass diese auch gesperrt ist. Wir suchen uns dann einen Campingplatz circa 30km weiter raus. Der Platz ist schön und liegt auch an einem Fluss. Noch eine Runde baden und schon ist der Tag vorbei.
    Unsere letzte Nacht auf einem Campingplatz.
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  • Day1

    Mission accomplished

    June 25, 2017 in France

    We didn't manage to start as early as we wanted, had lunch instead of breakfast in Freiburg and only made it to this little lake in France rather than the Lake Geneva. The plan was to not have one!

  • Day561

    Cosne Cours sur Loire

    January 8 in France

    A day's rest had left us keen to get some kilometres under our belts, so it wasn't long before we were rolling down the motorway towards Paris. Despite keeping to the periphery, the sprawling metropolis grew up quickly around us. Grey industrial and high rise buildings dominated the landscape as Will chopped and changed between roads that extended to 6 lanes and branched off to tunnels and flyovers. We were very grateful for the sat nav's directions and found ourselves on the outskirts sooner than expected. Here there was a mixture of modern curved glass buildings and old stone covered in graffiti. At a crossroads we saw a woman in a blue headscarf holding up a brown cardboard sign, her five year old child clutching a similar placard and begging alongside her, while a younger sibling slept in a pushchair.

    Once out of the city we stopped for lunch and filled up with free water at a motorhome facilities point in the motorway services (thank you France, it is so nice to feel welcome!). It had started off overcast and murky but as the day wore on the sun began to burn through the haze and not only revealed a pale blue sky but bumped the temperature up to double figures.

    The planned stopover wasn't easily accessible due to low railway bridges but Will had had the foresight to program in another. Our route took us alongside the Loire river and as we progressed south the flooding became worse. We passed a town where a football pitch and road were under water and the level was creeping dangerously close to houses. It was a long day's drive so the large riverside car park at Cosne Cours sur Loire, with spots reserved exclusively for 'camping-cars' was a welcome sight, although those said spots were worryingly close to the edge of the flooded river. We chose to park further back on slightly higher ground, thinking that Cosne Cours 'sur Loire' could well become 'sous Loire' overnight!

    From our window we could see a traditional river boat and a long, low road bridge spanning the fast flowing channel. As dusk fell the clouds were backlit with a rosy tint and lights marked the line of the bridge. It made for a beautiful view.
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  • Day12

    Day 12: Accolay - Asquins

    August 24, 2016 in France

    Distance: 27.5KM (285. 2/1714.8)
    Weather: 32C hot and humid
    Mood: Pretty relaxed. I can actually still walk once I put off my shoes. This is a new thing 🙂
    Blisters: 1 (though I have a few sore areas, probably due to callouses)

    The point of a hill

    I really don't mind a little climbing, I actually welcome it as its a change to the routine of walking, you use different muscles, and it actually brings me into a but of a hard working flow and most importantly, you get a great view as your reward.
    However, today I had quite a number of hills to climb that seemed completely pointless to me. I would be walking in the middle of a dense forest and I'd be climbing fiercely with my heavy pack on my back and once I reached the top there was... even more dense forest. No clearing, no view, just a waste of some good energy.
    I suggest they just dug out these paths and create cool valleys, sorry, but without a view... What's the point?!

    I intended to reach vezelay today, but it was just too bloody hot to climb that hill (in one of the pics you can see the hill that is Vezelay in the background). I think I may have even a been a but overheated and low on salt, so I found myself a nice bath house (I kid you not) and cooled down my feet and ate nuts. Tomorrow I will see vezelay in the morning light and this is where I should start encountering more pilgrims... We shall see!
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  • Day14

    Day 13: Asquins - Chemin

    August 26, 2016 in France

    Distance: 27.5KM (312.7/1698.9)
    Weather: 33C hot and humid
    Mood: Pretty good and strong
    Blisters: 1 (new one, feet are a little sore)


    Today I had company on the way for the first time. First a dog started following me and ended up walking with me for 10 km! I got in touch with his owner and found out later that he does this more often, he just really likes walking.
    Later I met Lisel (70,DE) with whom I walked the last few K to the great pilgrim auberge in Chemin, which is run by a lovely Dutch couple.
    I enjoyed the company for a change and I heard Spain is really busy, so I'll have to get myself prepared me thinks. We chatted till bedtime, so had no time to write my update.
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  • Day10

    Day 10: Ervy-le-Chatel - Chablis

    August 22, 2016 in France

    Distance: 35.4KM (231.7/1768.3) I found a shortcut, which saves me 2k though...
    Weather: 27C, mostly sunny
    Mood: Relaxed and a little tipsy...
    Blisters: 3 (!)

    Apologies for not publishing this yesterday I'm case anyone worried about me. I arrived in Chablis around 5.30, caught a lift to town with the local policeman (no, he didn't think I was a criminal, I just asked 🙂) and then... Well, I basically tried to make friends with next doors dog (not the one the pic) and ended up staying for dinner and a lot of rose. Of course they were English (Yorkshire) and I didn't get to bed till 22.30, which is very late for pilgrim-me. So, another good day and night, making the big miles and new friends and most importantly... the feet really seem to be getting better!Read more

  • Day11

    Day 11: Chablis - Accolay

    August 23, 2016 in France

    Distance: 26KM (257.7/1742.3)
    Weather: 33C hothothot
    Mood: Hot but happy and a little fatigued.
    Blisters: 3

    Things that make me happy
    - spotting wildlife (red squirrels, baby deer, otters)
    - dragonflies, following me as if they are playing tag
    - a cyclist who stops to offer me water
    - free wine and dinner from fellow campers
    - footpaths in Little icy cold streams
    - free local pastry from the boulangerie
    - Reading before bedtime all snug in my tiny tent
    - Meeting fellow pilgrims

    Things that make me not so happy
    - Blisters
    - Rain
    - Uneven gravel roads (see pic)
    - Closed boulangeries (but you knew that already)
    - Barley being able to walk when I swop my shoes for flip-flops
    - inaccurate directions

    Life of a pilgrim is simple...
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  • Day33

    Well mine was wine! So we stayed in Beaune not Dijon. Though I have to say Dijon is reportedly a very pretty city. Beaune is lovely too. I had to see the Hospital de Dieu. Founded and built in 1423 for the treatment of the poor. At that time Burgundy had been ravaged by the 100 years war with marauding bandits stealing from the peasantry. A wealthy landowner set up the foundation and got others to contribute ending up with not only a hospital but land for substantial vineyards and a farm. The hospital was staffed by nuns and was still treating patients I the 1950's. One good story was that during the occupation of the hospital in WW2 by the Germans. A sick French officer was smuggled out in a coffin. When asked by the Gestapo​ where he was they said he had died. Vive la France
    We meet a lovely Dutch couple and I have put in a photo of the lady with her cute doggy.
    I enjoyed the wine and was rather woosey come evening!
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  • Day1

    Auberge Thoire

    June 23 in France

    Die Anfahrt aus nordöstlicher Richtung ist landschaftlich reizvoll, immer wieder Seen, aber auch schön zu fahren, angenehme Kurven etv.
    Gut und gemütlich angekommen und Fußball zum Abendessen ist auch gesichert

    Gut gegessen und gewonnen 😃 und noch mit Leo, dem Brasilianer in Frankreich auf englisch an der Bar über die WM 2014 gesprochen....

    Abfahrt ca 9:20 h
    Die Weiterfahrt westlich führt auch über sehr schöne Strecken.

    Das Jura überhaupt scheint von Motorradfahrern zu Unrecht vielleicht etwas zu wenig geschätzt zu sein - da könnte man es auch durchaus etwas aushalten, statt es nur als Durchreisestrecke zu nutzen.
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  • Day16

    Nachdem wir über Nacht an einem wunderschönen Steg angelegt und den Vorabend dazu genutzt haben, Shippy von innen und außen auf Vordermann zu bringen, fahren wir heute gegen 9 Uhr los.
    Da es über Nacht geregnet hat, ist es heute nicht ganz so heiß wie sonst, 'nur' noch angenehme 28 Grad.
    Da es auf der Pétite Saone nicht mehr so viele Schleusen gibt wie auf dem Vogesenkanal, kommen wir sehr gut und viel schneller voran, als die letzten Tage.
    Während Gregor steuert, fange ich an unser Videomaterial zu schneiden, da wir endlichen den Vlog zu unserer Reise starten wollen. Dabei bin ich so vertieft, dass ich kaum etwas mitkriege. Gegen 19 Uhr legen wir im Port Royal in Auxonne an, einem kleinen verschlafenen, hübschen Städtchen ab der Saone.

    Wägrend Gregor und ich uns auf Shippys Sonnendeck den Rohentwurf des Vlogs ansehen, spricht uns ein älterer Herr aus England namens Steve an, und fragt, woher wir kämen und ob der Vogesenkanal momentan tief genug für die Durchfahrt sei. Aus der kurzen Kontaktaufnahme entwickelt sich ein längeres Gespräch, zu dem auch noch Steves Frau Nancy dazukommt.
    Steve & Nancy kommen gerade aus dem Mittelmeer und scheiben uns eine Liste mit den besten Anlegstellen, Häfen und Sightseeing-Spots von hier bis Marseille.

    Obwohl es schon fast 23 Uhr ist, laden die beiden uns noch auf ihr Boot ein. Ihr 'Boot' ist eine 15-Meter-Yacht und eine der schönsten, die ich bisher gesehen habe. Steve geht mit uns die Liste, eine ganze von oben bis unten vollgeschriebene Din-A4-Seite, durch und gibt uns viele wertvolle und nützliche Tipps und Hinweise für die kommende Strecke.
    Zu guter Letzt schenken die beiden uns auch noch eine Flasche super leckeren Rotweins und eine Navigationskarte für die Rhone, die Steve zufällig übrig hat. Es ist unglaublich: Die beiden kommen mir vor wie Engel.

    Als Gregor und ich zu Shippy zurücklaufen, stellen wir beide gleichzeitig fest, dass die beiden uns an uns selbst erinnert haben. So könnten wir in 40 Jahren sein. In der Zeit schaffen wir es bestimmt auch aus Shippy eine 15-Meter-Yacht zu machen;-)

    PS: Den Eifelturm hab ich morgens beim Joggen auch noch entdeckt.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Bourgogne-Franche-Comte, Borgogna-Franca Contea

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