2023 Itzonagen European Ride

August - October 2023
Early in 2018 I started making plans for a new European Cycling Adventure, to be conducted in September 2020. However, Covid 19 put a stop to those plans for three years. Now finally "Itzonagen". Read more
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  • The Itzonagen Ride

    February 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Way back on March 2nd, 2019 I conducted an Information Meeting for those interested in joining me on a new European ride, timed for August and September 2020. Planning for that trip had actually started way back in early 2018, but it was now finally in a form ready to present to potential participants.

    The original plan was for a two-part ride. The first part would be a weeklong bike/barge along the Moselle River from Saarburg to Koblenz. This was to be followed by a two-week ride around the Ardenne Region of Central Europe.

    The plan was obviously well received, as within a couple of days we had enough confirmed starters to guarantee that the rides would go ahead. Of course, what we didn't know then was that the world was about to tumble into a global pandemic called Covid 19. By early the next year, the pandemic was sweeping across the globe with such speed that all international travel stopped almost overnight.

    This immediately impacted our planned trip for 2020. It was first postponed by 12 months, then 2 years as the pandemic continued to cause havoc. It was only in 2022 that international travel finally started to open up again and I was able to have another look at our long-delayed adventure.

    The problem I was faced with was that the delays had also impacted the plans for subsequent European rides. There had been something of a "concertina effect". When dealing with riders who are of advancing years, I did not want to tell them that they would have to wait even longer before we could get underway again.

    Thus began a complete rethink of the plans for 2023. I started to explore all sorts of permutations to see if it would be possible to combine two years of cycling adventures into a single "MEGA TRIP". It certainly was something akin to a giant puzzle, trying to fit dates, destinations, ride directions and distances into something that would be feasible.

    Eventually I ended up with no less than 6 rides that would be linked together to become a 2023 Cycling Spectacular. It was easily going to be the most complex series of rides I had undertaken since the epic 2016 European Odyssey Ride.

    The final plan was to arrive in Amsterdam, then travel to Maastricht to begin the two-week ride around the Ardenne Region. We would then proceed to Koblenz to start the weeklong bike/barge along the Moselle to Saarburg. The group would then split into two smaller groups with one group going on to complete a weeklong ride along the Danube from Passau to Vienna. At the same time the second group were to go to the start of the Danube at Donaueschingen and ride through to Ulm. They would then divert to complete a loop of Lake Constance, before going to France to ride the Canal du Nivernais. If it sounds complicated, it is because it really was.

    The new plans were announced midway through 2022 to see how they would be received. The response was overwhelming. Not only would all the rides go ahead as planned, but the size of the group actually grew to 29 riders !

    Now that we could all start having a new adventure to look forward to, I also needed a name for the overall trip. It has been customary to give each adventure a title. Since this one had been delayed for 3 years, I thought that an apt name would be the Itzonagen Ride. No, it is not a town in Switzerland, it is because "it's on again". Simple.

    Since confirming the details, our riders have been busy booking flights and additional accommodation. Now that we are almost within 6 months of departure, I believe that most of these details are now sorted.

    And how many sleeps to go ? I think that is is around 190 and counting. You are now invited to follow this adventure via this blog site. It really has been a long time since the first plans were made in 2018, but finally Itzonagen.
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  • Six Months and Counting

    February 20, 2023 in Australia

    There is something especially significant about the six month countdown to departure. For this trip it is even more exciting, since it had been postponed multiple times due to Covid 19.

    But here we are. In just six months time our team will be forming in Amsterdam and the adventure will finally be beginning. By now all the major components of the trip are finalised, and it is only the minor parts remaining to be sorted out.

    Our biggest concern is now the health of our team members. At this point in time we have one rider recovering after recent surgery, another facing treatment and yet another suffering from a serious shingles infection. My main wish is that every one of the riders is in good health when we finally get underway. I certainly don't want any more medical situations in the next six months.

    The next main event for our team is a special lunch on Friday March 17th. This will be the first time all our Melbourne based participants will be able to be in the same place at the same time. It will be a good chance to share advice and travel stories from previous trips.

    In late April we have a week long cycling trip to the Surf Coast Region of Victoria. That will be a good dress rehearsal for Europe and a chance for our riders to assess their ability to ride on a string of consecutive days.

    And the number of sleeps ? I think it must now be about 179.
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  • Five Months and Counting

    March 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    It seems like it was only a month ago that I was saying that we only have six months to go before departure, but now the calendar is telling me that we have reached the even more exciting milestone of five months.

    When we consider that the planning for this adventure actually began five years ago, I guess we have reason to be impatient. The normal lead time from original concept to departure is typically two years. Five years is really a tad long, especially when our team members are growing older by the minute, let alone by the year.

    Of course the repeated delays we caused by the intervention of a Covid pandemic - not something that I considered even in my wildest dreams. The original trip was postponed multiple times, until I began to think that it was never going to happen.

    The initial plan was to have a two part trip. The first part would be a week long bike and barge along the Moselle from Saarburg to Koblenz, and this would be followed by a two week ride around the Ardennes Region of Central Europe.

    The multiple delays impacted, not only the trip that was originally planned for 2020, but also a subsequent European ride that had been planned for 2021. It was only after the pandemic began to finally subside that I started to consider the possibility of combining two years of rides into a single, multistage, extended trip.

    Over a period of months the options were examined from every angle. Maggie and I spent hours with calendars, maps and the all powerful Google search engine, to try to find a workable solution to the puzzle. Gradually a possible itinerary evolved, but it was quite different to the original plan.

    The new plans meant that we would do the Ardennes Ride first, then ride the Moselle in the upstream direction from Koblenz to Saarburg. The group would then split into two parts, with one group proceeding to ride the Danube from Passau to Vienna, while the other group went on to complete three more rides in Germany, Switzerland and France. Yes, it was complicated, and easily the biggest cycling adventure that UTRACKS would be overseeing in 2023.

    With a total of 29 participants, the sheer size of our group made for some serious logistical challenges. Many hotels were unwilling to take bookings for a large number of rooms, and at times, it really looked like we had hit yet another roadblock. Fortunately the problems were gradually resolved and our final plans were confirmed.

    Yesterday we had our first (and last) team meeting with the Melbourne based members of our group. It was exciting to finally see so many of our travelers all together in the same place, all happily chatting and sharing their experiences together.

    After a wonderful lunch, I was able to share some more detailed information about the upcoming trip. The next time we have the group together again will be when we are in Europe in August.

    Now it's only about 150 sleeps to go.
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  • Getting Close Now

    April 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I have to admit that there have been times on our previous overseas rides when I wondered how many of our participants would actually make it all the way to the finish line. We have experienced everything from cuts and abrasions to broken legs and heart attacks during some of our rides, however this is the first time that I have had reason to doubt whether all our riders would even make it to the start of the ride.

    Perhaps it is due to the increasing age of the riders, or perhaps it is just pure bad luck. Whatever the reason, we do seem to have been beset by a serious of health issues in these final few months before departure. No sooner does one person recover from their malady, than another one steps in to take their place on the sick roll.

    After postponing this trip so many times because of Covid 19, it would be devastating if anyone had to withdraw at this late stage. Nothing would give me greater pleasure than to have the full complement of participants all happily and safely gathered at the start of our adventure in Maastricht.

    Now that we are under four months to go till we get underway, it really is finally starting to seem imminent. Next week we have our final extended cycling trip in Victoria, before all our attention turns to Europe.

    On Sunday we will be leaving to ride all the major bike trails in Western Victoria. This includes the Bellarine Trail, the Warrnambool to Port Fairy, the Port Campbell to Timboon, the Timboon to Cobden and the Old Beechy Trail from Colac to Gellibrand. The advance weather forecast is looking pretty good, so I am hoping for a rain free cycling week.

    For many of our riders, it will a good indicator of their ability to ride multiple days in succession. If they can cope with that, they should have no fears about the cycling in Europe. The daily distances that we will be riding in Western Victoria are very similar to the distances we will be doing each day in Europe. Let's hope that no one suffers a mishap!

    According to my calculations, we now have only 125 sleeps to go before we head to the airport.
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  • Three weeks to go and Disaster Strikes

    July 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Normally when you get to this late stage of proceedings, there are only a few last minute loose ends to attend to. This trip has however, been anything but ordinary. Not only has it been postponed for three years because of Covid, but our team members seem to be intent on doing everything in their power to injure themselves before we even start.

    About a month ago Gael had such an incident while standing under the shower at home. When she noticed the bathroom starting to look like a Turkish sauna, she realised that she had forgotten to turn the exhaust fan on. At that point things took a nasty turn.

    She could have just ignored the steam and enjoyed the rest of her shower, however something persuaded her to reach out and try to reach the switch. It was the wrong thing to do. In a split second, she slipped on the wet floor and fell heavily on her hip. Unfortunately humans do not bounce like rubber balls, and she quickly knew that something bad had happened.

    Although initial Xrays did not show major damage, when she did not recover over the next few weeks, a further scan showed a hairline crack in the femur. The end result was that she found herself in the operating room, allowing the orthopedic surgeon to rebuild the top half of her leg. A couple of hours (and a bucket load of screws, rods, brackets and hinges) later, the job was done. And unfortunately, so was her participation in the upcoming ride.

    Gael and Gerry had been part of our plans since the beginning and it was heartbreaking for them and the entire team to see them have to withdraw at this late stage. This now reduces our total team to 28 riders. I have now given strict orders to the rest of the team not to do anything stupid, between now and the departure date. I don't think any of them took any notice whatsoever.

    And as for myself, I am not going to relax until I am sitting in the plane at Tullamarine, waiting to finally take off.
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  • The Final Countdown

    August 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    There is something really significant about reaching the point when your departure is less than a week away. This is especially true when the trip has been five years in the making.

    According to the calendar, by this time next week, we will an hour into our flight and we will be somewhere over NSW. Hopefully all our luggage will also be on the plane with us.

    By this stage everyone should be in the very final stages of their packing and preparation. So where do I stand in this regard ?
    Final packing - almost done
    All accommodation bookings made - I hope so
    Transfers and train tickets done - that was David's job
    Passport ready ? - yes
    Other documents sorted and packed - mostly
    Financial matters under control - you have to be kidding
    Cycling training completed - in a fashion
    All notes and documents carefully studied - there are not enough hours in the day
    Electrical devices, cables, chargers, adapters, etc - checked and ready

    At this stage of proceedings it is normal to feel a mixture of excitement and panic. Excitement that our long awaited adventure is finally about to start, and panic because there is always that nagging feeling at the back of your mind that some important item has been overlooked.

    You would think that, after doing so many previous cycling trips, that I would have everything down to a smooth routine. You might think that, but you could also be mistaken. Sometimes I feel like that proverbial duck, calmy floating on the lake. On the surface all looks peaceful and serene, but under the water the little webbed feet are paddling like crazy.

    Actually I am looking forward to finally being able to settle my ample backside into the designated plane seat, and waiting for take off. By that stage anything that was forgotten or undone, will remain undone.

    If there is one thing I have learnt from all my previous trips, it is that, no matter what happens, everything will work out in the end. On such a complex and lengthy trip, it is almost certain that not everything will go exactly according to plan. At such times you can either panic, or examine the situation and work out the best solution. Although we don't want such situations to arise, sometimes they are the times that participants look back on in years ahead with the most affection.

    Travel is meant to be an adventure, and we always need to leave room for the true magic to take place.

    The next time most of our team will be together will be when we meet together at the Hotel Wiechmann in Amsterdam. I hope that those who are reading this account back in Australia will be sharing the journey with us.
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  • Day 2

    Day One and Disaster (almost) Strikes

    August 19, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Day One and Disaster (almost) Strikes

    Anyone who has experienced travel to the other side of the planet, would have to admit that there is no way that the flight over could be called pleasant. No one enjoys being squashed inside a metal sarcophagus with 300 or 400 others for around 24 hours. No one could enjoy the sensation of sitting in a seat for so long, while you can gradually feel your extremities losing all circulation. But that’s exactly what 10 of us have just done.

    The trip actually started early on Friday morning. For Maggie and me, the day began with a 5.30 am alarm. Not that we had really slept much that night. It is hard to venture to the Land of Nod when there are just so many active thoughts rushing through your consciousness.

    After hours of fruitless tossing and turning, I was actually glad when the alarm went, and we were able to start the long journey to Europe. We had organised for an airport shuttle to collect us and four others at 9 am. You can imagine my surprise when I happened to glance out the front window at 8 am, to see that the shuttle was already waiting. As I remember it, I didn’t even have my pants on!

    I messaged the driver, in case there had been a mixup with the pickup time. He informed me that he had just finished another job, and that he was happy to wait. First crisis averted.

    An hour later we had locked the front door and loaded our bags into the van. We were on our way at last. About fifteen minutes later we were joined by Gordon and Sue, and Greg and Andrea. We shared some light hearted chatter as we made our way to the airport. Somewhat surprisingly, the traffic flowed so smoothly that we reached Tullamarine about 10.10 am. At that rate we would be in Amsterdam before we knew it.

    The old days of interacting with a real human being at check in time are long since gone. Now everything is processed by a robot, including checkin, bag drop and immigration clearance. I used to enjoy a bit of small talk with the airline staff, but it is hard to chat to a faceless robot.

    The scheduled take off time for the first leg of our flight was 2.25 pm. We were all hoping for a punctual start, since we knew that our transit time in Hong Kong was going to be very tight. When boarding time started behind schedule, I was ultra keen not to keep the plane waiting for us. This almost turned out to be a truly disastrous move.

    The line of passengers moved relatively quickly, and Maggie and I dropped into our allocated seats. “Well that’s the first step done”, I explained to Maggie. In fact it was nowhere near done. Just as we were trying to squeeze ourselves into our seats, Gordon walked down the aisle and dropped a familiar looking item on my lap. Now where had I seen that thing before ? Hang on, it looked a lot like my wallet. It WAS my wallet, filled with cash, credit cards, driving license and other personal birthrights.

    Apparently in my haste I had dropped it under the seat in the departure lounge. If an honest child had not noticed it and reported it to Gordon, my trip would really have gotten off to a terrible start. For a while we were both quite shaken as we contemplated the possible consequences. Maybe the lesson is to always act in a careful and controlled manner, and always check that your personal items are with you. Acting in haste is never a great idea. But then again, when do I ever take my own advice ?

    With the wallet safely back in my possession, I thought that nothing else could go wrong. I was a little concerned when the flight finally took off about 30 minutes late. I was even more concerned when the pilot decided to take the long way to Hong Kong (making a couple of laps around Sydney), and thereby adding another 30 minutes or so to the flight time.

    The, already tight, transit time of 60 minutes, had now shrunk almost to zero. We finally touched down at Hong Kong at about the same time our connecting flight to Amsterdam was due to take off. In the immortal words of Corporal Jones, I felt myself saying “Don’t panic, don’t panic”, but at the same time picturing that this would not have a good outcome.

    We were rushed off the plane and ushered to a waiting Cathay Pacific rep. She then instructed us to follow her to the next flight. Well we tried to do that, but she immediately broke into a fast sprint that would have done Cathy Freeman proud. We lumbered along behind, vainly trying to keep her retreating hind quarters in sight. Didn’t she realise that we are not teenagers? We are no longer even middle aged. We are fully fledged “old farts” now, and this seemed to be an ill conceived procedure. Even if we managed to reach the flight, I was very doubtful that our luggage would be able to run as fast as us.

    Somehow we defied the laws of Physics and common sense, and avoided dual heart attacks, as we finally flopped into the second plane, just as the doors were closing. It really had been a close call. Soon we were back in the air, wondering just where our bags would be heading. Would they be heading off somewhere else on their own independent adventure ?

    The second leg of the journey was a thirteen-hour marathon, weaving up and down around numerous countries we had never heard of. I was more than a little concerned when the on-screen tracker showed us heading straight for Crimea, however we veered south at the last minute, to skirt over Turkey instead.

    Our landing at Amsterdam took place at around 6 am, just as the sun was appearing over the eastern horizon. We quickly cleared immigration and staggered forlornly to the Baggage Collection Area. We felt that it would take a miracle for our luggage to appear, however we were shown that miracles still do occur. All our bags somehow miraculously made the transit safely. We finally thought that our long day had reached a most satisfactory conclusion. The only thing left was the short shuttle transfer to our hotel. Easy Peasey, or so we thought.

    David had been entrusted with this easy job, and he assured us that "everything was arranged". But where was the driver? We walked up and down the airport, looking for a man with a sign. There wasn’t one. After about 45 minutes of fruitless searching, we were finally able to contact the company. They had obviously forgotten us. They arranged for another van and driver to collect us. It was a bit of extra stress that we could have done without.

    We arrived at the wonderful Wiechmann Hotel far too early to get access to our rooms, so we dropped our luggage and went for a walk (ie stagger) to the beautiful Vondelpark. It was the perfect location to relax, have a coffee and indulge in some people watching. This is the preferred place for Amsterdam folks to walk, jog, walk their dog or enjoy a coffee.

    It did not take long for the heat and humidity to take its toll. We were all completely exhausted, so much so that it took all our strength to make it back to our hotel to finally get to our rooms. According to my calculations, it had been around 50 hours since any of us had been in a bed, and we were not in a pleasant state.

    Along the way I happened to see a terrifying sight. We were approached by a group of mentally deranged people, all with bloodshot eyes, idiotic blank stares and staggering gaits. Surely the world had not been over-run by a zombie apocalypse since we left Australia? Unfortunately, it turned out to be our own reflections I was seeing in a shop window.

    In spite of the mishaps, we were all now safely in Amsterdam, our luggage was still with us, and another wonderful adventure is about to begin.

    You can join us if you wish.
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  • Day 3

    Good Morning Amsterdam

    August 20, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    "Fine and sunny, with a top temperature of 25C", promised the weather forecast for our first full day in Amsterdam. I don't suppose that gave anyone due cause for complaint.

    It is also amazing what a huge difference eight hours sleep makes. Yesterday our group looked terrible enough to instill fear in children and large dogs, but as we gathered for breakfast this morning, everyone had regained their smiles, energy and a small amount of their mental faculties as well. We were all looking forward to our first full day enjoying and exploring Amsterdam.

    Maggie and I had already done our own share of early morning exploring. We had awoken at 5.30 am and, since neither of us felt like going back to sleep, we dressed and headed off into the predawn streets of the city. This is always a lovely time to walk, when the streets are quiet and the air is fresh and cool.

    My own mental state would have been even better if I had been able to resolve the issue with my non functioning VISA debit card. Since it had now been declined at establishments all over the city, I had to deduce that something sinister was going on.

    After spending a fruitless 30 minutes trying to contact the 24/7 "customer support team" (aka the completely useless and non responsive robot assistant), I decided if the problem was going to be solved, I would have to do it myself. And that is what I did. Even though I had previously explained to the NAB bankers that I was travelling to Europe and wanted all the arrangements to be in place, they had thoughtfully put a block on all overseas transactions. Absolutely brilliant of them.

    After some time poking around on the NAB online banking website, I finally found the way to unlock the VISA constipation which had plagued our first day. I almost ran down the stairs (actually almost a ladder) to the reception desk. They tested the unlocked card, and it worked. My stress level dropped by about 90%.

    Back at the hotel for breakfast, we saw a familiar face come walking in the door. Actually, it was more than just a face, it was the latest member of the team. Pascale had just arrived from Melbourne and had somehow managed to still look human and awake.

    With our numbers now increasing steadily, we discussed how to spend the day. Nine of us decided to make a trip to the famous STRAART Musuem. This is a huge, old industrial area which has now been converted into a place for artists and sculptors to display their work.

    To get there we had to first walk to Centraal Station, and then catch a free ferry to the other side of the harbour. It proved to be a nice escape from the crowds in central Amsterdam, and the massive buildings were actually more interesting than the artwork. We could only imagine what these places would have looked like when they were filled with 100s of workers.

    By around 1 pm, we were starting to feel the delayed effects of exhaustion and found that our feet had somehow started to feel like we were wearing concrete shoes. It was time to head back to the sanctuary of the hotel.

    We managed to get on the correct ferry back the Centraal Station. We even managed to successfully navigate back to the correct street. We even managed to (initially) start walking in the correct direction. What could possibly go wrong ? Actually Gordon went wrong.

    "I think we should be going in the other direction", he suggested. I looked around and started to doubt myself. Maybe he was right. I told the walking peloton that we would have to turn around and retrace the last 20 mins of walking. And that is what we did.

    After about another 30 mins of walking in the opposite direction, we all started to doubt ourselves. This definitely did not look right. I checked the street name, to discover that the street name had changed. This was the last thing we needed.

    "OK folks, it's time to turn around again", The group executed a second U turn and started to head back in the same direction I had originally chosen. The last 45 minutes had been wasted. I could now relate to the famous grand old Duke of York, fruitlessly marching his men up and down the hill.

    Somehow, we finally reached the familiar hotel and collapsed into the large chairs in the lounge. It had been a long day, but we were so pleased to be joined by Ken and Pauline, who had spent the last couple of days in The Hague. The contingent of Ghostriders at the hotel had now swollen to 13.

    It had been another long day, terminating in another early night. According to my watch we had walked over 15,000 steps (mostly in the wrong direction).

    Good Night Amsterdam.
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  • Day 4

    Getting to Know You

    August 21, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Whenever you first arrive at a new city, everything seems strange and confusing. It is easy to lose your bearings and feel disoriented whenever you step far away from the hotel. It takes time to recognise familiar landmarks and common routes.

    A couple of days later, it is usually completely different. You start to build up a mental framework of the layout of the city and gain confidence in exploring, without the overwhelming fear that you will get lost. And this is the case with our time in Amsterdam.

    We awoke to another completely clear blue sky and the prospect of a hot day ahead. After the marathon we walked yesterday, I had no desire to try to set some sort of new personal record today. That is why I suggested that the Vondel Park would be a lovely place to spend another couple of hours.

    This morning we were also joined by the final four members of the Amsterdam group. Paul and Catriona Wansbrough and Allan and Sarah Barlin walked in to the hotel just after breakfast, bearing the unmistakable signs of long haul flight delirium. Although Allan has been a regular participant in Ghostrider adventures since I first met him in Kathmandu in 2002, I had not seen Paul and Catriona since our Scandinavian rides in 2014. And, for Allan's daughter Sarah, this will be her first experience of travelling with an eccentric group of people, mostly old enough to be her grandparents.

    After welcoming the new arrivals, I suggested that it would be good for the men and women to head in different directions. While the women all happily looked for shopping opportunities, I took seven of the men and headed for the familiar sanctuary of the Vondel Park.

    We settled into a nice table and were recognised by the same waiter who had served us two days earlier. What followed next was two hours of wide ranging conversation (aka "secret men's business"). Of course, I cannot divulge such private details here, so I won't even try.

    After we ran out of things to talk about, we started the walk back to the hotel. Michael had only walked about 50 metres, before stating that he could walk no further, and insisted on catching the tram instead. Ken reluctantly agreed to accompany him as his carer. The rest of us walked.

    A short time later five of us were back at the hotel, resting in the lounge room, but Michael and Ken were nowhere to be seen. Funny that. They eventually staggered in the door about twenty minutes later, with some doubtful tale about the tram door not opening and keeping them trapped far past their intended stop. I did not believe it for a minute.

    Meanwhile the women had apparently enjoyed a lovely time spending their husbands' retirement funds, and laughing hysterically at the same time. Although the chocolate shop that they had originally headed for turned out to be shut, there were plenty of other shops that were very happy to welcome them and their credit cards.

    Later today we plan to head back to the Vondel Park with ingredients for a late afternoon picnic on the grass. It should be fun.
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  • Day 5

    A Picnic in the Park

    August 22, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Following our huge day of walking around Amsterdam, I suggested that some might like to enjoy an evening picnic in the Vondel Park. This would be cheaper than supporting another Amsterdam restaurant, and we could all enjoy the green surroundings.

    Twelve of the group took me up on this suggestion. We first visited the local supermarket to collect supplies (mostly fruit, salads and drinks), and then walked to the park. Fortunately, the heat of the afternoon had dissipated, and the cooler evening air had taken its place.

    We quickly discovered that thousands of others had also decided to enjoy the park as well. It really is a popular place for Amsterdammers to relax after a long day at work.

    We did however manage to find a lovely patch of grass and settled down to a chat and our long awaited picnic. It soon became evident that our eyes were much bigger than our tummies. We simply had purchased far too much food. We probably had enough to feed another ten people. Oh well, that happens.

    After the picnic we wandered slowly back to our hotel. After three days in Amsterdam, we are all starting to feel much more confident in finding our way through the maze of streets and canals.

    Back at the hotel, we gathered in the lounge room. This has sort of become our unofficial headquarters (mainly because of the free coffee machine). It did not take long for Paul and Catriona to bid us goodnight and head off to their room. They disappeared up the stairs and we soon forgot about them.

    About ten minutes later we were somewhat surprised when both of them reappeared in the lounge room. "Why are you back ?", I asked. "We went all the way up the wrong stairs", was the grumpy reply. When climbing four flights of stairs requires about as much energy and dexterity as summiting K2, I could understand why they were unhappy. They will never make that mistake again (although they almost replicated the event the very next morning).

    After a great night's sleep, we awoke to our last full day in Amsterdam. We did not want to set a new record for the number of steps completed in a single day, so we settled for something much less energetic - a boat cruise.

    Fifteen of us parted with 20 Euro for a ticket and were soon climbing aboard a lovely open boat. The captain was a lanky, 23 year old blond guy. The cruise was meant to take an hour, but it ended up taking considerably longer than planned. I would have to say that the young captain did a great job and most of us were almost asleep at the end.

    Tomorrow morning we catch the train from Amsterdam to Maastricht, where our ride will begin.
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