Chile & Argentina

January - February 2018
A 31-day adventure by Cova y Micha Read more
  • 27footprints
  • 2countries
  • 31days
  • 70photos
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  • 2.7kkilometers
  • From Erfurt to Santiago de Chile (35h)

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Welcome!

    What have we (Micha & I) been up to since January 12th, when we left Erfurt? Well, not that much travelling, but rather reading, learning from more experienced globetrotters and trying to figure out our next steps.

    How did we get here, to Chile? We have had quite a bit of luck because the trip did not start smoothly! Here´s how we got to our first stop: Santiago de Chile

    Erfurt - Frankfurt: the Deutsche Bahn (train) behaved, and we arrived on time. We had more than enough time to check-in at FRAirport – we were actually counting on some sort of delay!

    Our flight to Santiago was scheduled to fly over Toronto, with a really long stopover (at least our luggage would make it we thought!). We went directly to the check-in counters, I think we were the first ones to check in that flight… But, we couldn´t! It turns out, that we hadn´t applied (at all!) for the ETA for Canada (entry permit, as German & Spanish citizens do not need a visa for tourism purposes). Our hearts sank: how could this have happened? Months of planning, and we forgot to apply for the ETA? Fortunately, you can apply online and 99.7% of the applications are approved within 2 hours. So were ours… The approval was sent to us within the longest hour of our lives. We checked in in silence, and proceeded to the security check without saying a word. It wasn´t until we boarded that reality hit us again. I even burst out in tears of relief (and happiness) – we made it: in 21 hours, we would be in Santiago!

    Due to a heavy snow storm in Toronto we could not land as scheduled and our plane was re-directed to Montreal, where we re-fuelled and waited until we could fly back to Toronto airport. That´s how we spent an extra 5 hours inside the plane and reduced our stopover at Pearson Int. Airport in about 2 hours – at least the entertainment system was good! Micha and I watched each 2 movies, plus a couple of documentaries during these 15 hours, and still slept for at least 5-6 hours!

    We did not miss our connecting flight in Toronto, because the 2nd flight was also delayed for a couple of hours. We boarded at 2am (local time, for us it was about 6 am) for the next 11-hour flight to Santiago. Once more, after a first warm meal, we dozed off – there was plenty of space to lie around as the plane wasn´t fully booked (plus so many flights had been cancelled and the corresponding amount of people missed the connection).

    On the 13th of January, we were officially in Santiago! We were, but not our bags. We were told that they would arrive the next day. Which turned out to be 3...! Lets just say that Air Canada should definitely work on their customer service in Santiago.

    More on Santiago…soon!
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  • Santiago & the Popemobile

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Can you imagine Kurfürstendamm in Berlin, or the Castellana in Madrid, closed to traffic every Sunday from 9:00- 14:00? Well, that´s what Santiago does, it closes the Costanera Norte for cyclists, skaters, and basically anyone that wants to enjoy the kilometre-long central road and neighbouring parks pollution-free!

    That was our first impression about Santiago, few cars and not hectic at all! Boy that changed on Tuesday!

    As we didn´t have any luggage we weren´t going anywhere. We used the couple of days in the capital city to organize our further trips, do some last-minute shopping & discover Santiago. We didn´t see as much as we expected… Sunday, everything closed, and Monday too: the city of Santiago declared this day as a public holiday given the Pope´s visit in town!

    Yes, we did see Pope Francis!

    It was quite a coincidence really… we were walking back from running some errands in the city centre, we saw that the main road was closed to traffic again – the Pope was driving one last time through Santiago! Fervent Catholics and curious people waited for the Pontifex. Just as planned, around 19:30 he drove past – quite fast, and very very near. I´m not sure this distance would be even considered by the authorities in Europe! Three minutes later, the Carabineros were gone, street re-opened and the masses of people disappeared in the adjacent streets as if nothing hadn´t happened. Only the street vendors reminded the pedestrians about this visit, having to change strategy from a “2 flags for $500 to cheer for Pope Francis” to “3 flags for $500, a lovely memory from this historical visit”.

    We were lucky with our Hostel, it was in the peaceful Providencia area – near to the centre, the Bellavista party district, the huge Mercado de la Vega and top metro connections. We´ve been walking a lot, we love to explore the city by foot! I guess we were the first customers at a gas station that arrived by foot – we were looking for the up-to-date mapas ruteros (road maps) of COPEC, which only sold here!

    We had some tasty food, but we have somehow still not understood the eating habits here: why are the portions so huge? Do they have another side dish which doesn´t involve French fries? Kuchen (cake)? Is it possible to fill absolutely anything with manjar (dulce de leche)? Seems so!
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  • Day 5

    Valparaiso du coole socke

    January 18, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Up and down, and up and down. Cerro arriba, cerro abajo. Walking endless roads, stairs or with the lift - chose your favourite way to get to the top!

    We stayed in the Cerro Alegre, and the district breathes its name´s atmosphere (happiness)! Valparaiso has surprised us. Every corner is colourful, and the locals are incredibly kind and helped us to get around. Getting to know the local public transport is always a challenge! We took a local bus to Vina del Mar - Chileans are good drivers, but fast drivers! However, they are very respectful with pedestrians!

    Have I mentioned that we miss coffee? Somehow, instant coffee is everywhere instead. We even had some very decent coffee, at German price, but good one!
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  • Day 7

    We´re heading (sort of) south!

    January 20, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After a couple of cosmopolitan days, we´ve decided to go south. Our next stop, where we are renting a (small) car is Puerto Montt.

    Getting to the bus station was incredibly fast & cheap – hurray for Uber in Santiago!

    The bus network in Chile is extensive, and strictly regulated. Moreover, the different seating (and pricing) gives you the opportunity to choose according to your needs. After reading and asking around, we decided to book the “cama” category, and that was definitely the right choice for such a long drive (21:50 – 10:10) – we had more than enough space, in the first floor of the double-deck bus and we even got some (apple) juice and cookies, twice. Once at night, just after leaving, and a second one for “breakfast”. My fist “alfajores” here!

    We managed to get more rest than expected. We were surprised that there were no (long) stops, but rather passenger hop-on hop-off stops with quick driver changes. Moreover, information about the journey including (actual) speed and drivers´ information (time driving) was constantly published, with the invitation to complain if as a passenger you felt he was driving too fast/not appropriately.

    We arrived Puerto Montt and our rental car picked us up as agreed. Thumbs up once more for the services, as they actually suggested it themselves (on a Sunday).
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  • Day 8

    Isla Grande de Chiloé – Castro

    January 21, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As we arrived in Puerto Montt, we decided to drive directly somewhere else (sorry Puerto Montt!). We have done some research on the “Lagos” area, where roads are in good condition and decided to take the Panamericana (Route 5) direction south to Chiloé Island, the place where it actually starts! The road is in good conditions, but the tolls are quite expensive though! With the (compulsory) ferry, we paid over 15.000clp (around 20€). Somewhere around Alcud, we decided to take in two hitch-hikers – Pato & Cata. It was quite amusing that after introducing ourselves, none of us wanted to be called by our actual name, but rather by our short or nick-names. Pato & Cata are studying Ciencias Medioambientales, and had just finished their internship. They were heading south, towards the Parque Nacional where they were planning to camp for one week. We drove together until Castro, and parted ways at the Tourist Information Office. We were staying one night in Castro to visit the wooden stilt houses, and they were going to try and get to the next town or even to the park that evening.

    Castro, the capital city of Chiloé Island, turned out to be a charming town. Like every place we have seen until now, extremely hilly.

    I hope you enjoy the pictures (coming up tomorrow from my computer)!
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  • Day 9

    Planning

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    For those who haven´t thought about it, it´s summer in Chile. Until now, it doesn´t translate automatically in extremely high temperatures. Although they are extremely high the moment the sun shines. In the shade/ as soon as the sun goes down, it is quite chilly for this Spaniard! Moreover, it´s quite strange for us to hear “the summer hit of 2018” in the radio. For me, that is not until June/July! Not here…it is summer, and schools are closed until February.

    Why this story about summer? After asking at least 3 people, and running out of battery using google maps in both of our phones (we have a Chilean SIM card to avoid the exorbitant roaming costs), we found our camping site in Castro. It is a primary school which during the summer time, is converted into a camping place! All the campers could use the facilities, hot showers, bathroom and teachers’ kitchen, and high-speed internet (“fibra-optica” as they so proudly explained)! Some of the classrooms where even transformed into bedrooms, as part of a sort of “hostel”. The school director runs the place with her son Fran, and her daughter in law. Absolutely amazing people!

    We decided to take over the dining room, in order to plan our way further south. All of our plans until then consisted on having to be on the 27th of February in Puerto Natales to hop on the 4-day ferry through the fjords back to Puerto Montt. We had to figure out how to get there:
    - Carretera Austral (Route 7)? Which parts are closed due to the earthquake/mud-slides in Santa Lucia? Is it better to drive through Argentina then? Which hikes do we want to do – Villa Castillo, El Chaltén, Chaitén? What was there to do in Tortel again? In Torres del Paine, O-trek or W-trek? When would we be there (all camping places have to be booked in advance).

    So many questions…!

    The dining room became our operations room in the morning – 3 road maps, plus the guides and extra information from in internet. As Ms. Director said – “oh boy, you look like you´re planning a war! Where´s the next battle, and who´s the enemy?”
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  • Day 9

    National Park Chiloé

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Driving there in the early afternoon we found Cata and Pato in an intersection! It turns out they hadn´t made it that far! We drove another hour together.

    Unfortunately, we arrived pretty late and Micha and I could only enjoy 0,2% of the park. We did a couple if short trails and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere before driving back to our camping place, to enjoy dinner at our pupil desks. Being under 1,60m has its advantages ;)Read more

  • Day 10

    On our way to Puerto Varas (Lake region)

    January 23, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We left late as we insisted on making a couple of calls beforehand, making use of the last minutes of decent internet in this school/camping site. Our rent-a-car has had so much patience to answer all of our questions. We have a versicherung (insurance) for the versicherung (insurance) – welcome to Germany – for our next car, and needed to provide some details, which sounded impossible for Chilean standards.

    Problem solved though!
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  • Day 11

    Roaming around LLanquihue Lake

    January 24, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Wilkommen in Deutschland…or mini-old-fashioned Germany, because in this region – Colonos/ siedlers. There are "Deutsche Vereine" (associations), a German school in every town and even in the supermarket I feel like walking down a DM aisle.

    Thanks to a small “camping search” crisis, we landed at “Baumbach”, in Llanquihué. This stunning spot, with a world-class view of the volcano has become our operation basis for this week.
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