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Chile & Argentina

A 31-day adventure by Gonvadonga Read more
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    January 14, 2018
    GonvadongaChile & ArgentinaGonvadonga

    From Erfurt to Santiago de Chile (35h)

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Welcome!

    What have we (Micha & I) been up to since January 12th, when we left Erfurt? Well, not that much travelling, but rather reading, learning from more experienced globetrotters and trying to figure out our next steps.

    How did we get here, to Chile? We have had quite a bit of luck because the trip did not start smoothly! Here´s how we got to our first stop: Santiago de Chile

    Erfurt - Frankfurt: the Deutsche Bahn (train) behaved, and we arrived on time. We had more than enough time to check-in at FRAirport – we were actually counting on some sort of delay!

    Our flight to Santiago was scheduled to fly over Toronto, with a really long stopover (at least our luggage would make it we thought!). We went directly to the check-in counters, I think we were the first ones to check in that flight… But, we couldn´t! It turns out, that we hadn´t applied (at all!) for the ETA for Canada (entry permit, as German & Spanish citizens do not need a visa for tourism purposes). Our hearts sank: how could this have happened? Months of planning, and we forgot to apply for the ETA? Fortunately, you can apply online and 99.7% of the applications are approved within 2 hours. So were ours… The approval was sent to us within the longest hour of our lives. We checked in in silence, and proceeded to the security check without saying a word. It wasn´t until we boarded that reality hit us again. I even burst out in tears of relief (and happiness) – we made it: in 21 hours, we would be in Santiago!

    Due to a heavy snow storm in Toronto we could not land as scheduled and our plane was re-directed to Montreal, where we re-fuelled and waited until we could fly back to Toronto airport. That´s how we spent an extra 5 hours inside the plane and reduced our stopover at Pearson Int. Airport in about 2 hours – at least the entertainment system was good! Micha and I watched each 2 movies, plus a couple of documentaries during these 15 hours, and still slept for at least 5-6 hours!

    We did not miss our connecting flight in Toronto, because the 2nd flight was also delayed for a couple of hours. We boarded at 2am (local time, for us it was about 6 am) for the next 11-hour flight to Santiago. Once more, after a first warm meal, we dozed off – there was plenty of space to lie around as the plane wasn´t fully booked (plus so many flights had been cancelled and the corresponding amount of people missed the connection).

    On the 13th of January, we were officially in Santiago! We were, but not our bags. We were told that they would arrive the next day. Which turned out to be 3...! Lets just say that Air Canada should definitely work on their customer service in Santiago.

    More on Santiago…soon!    Read more

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    Santiago & the Popemobile

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Can you imagine Kurfürstendamm in Berlin, or the Castellana in Madrid, closed to traffic every Sunday from 9:00- 14:00? Well, that´s what Santiago does, it closes the Costanera Norte for cyclists, skaters, and basically anyone that wants to enjoy the kilometre-long central road and neighbouring parks pollution-free!

    That was our first impression about Santiago, few cars and not hectic at all! Boy that changed on Tuesday!

    As we didn´t have any luggage we weren´t going anywhere. We used the couple of days in the capital city to organize our further trips, do some last-minute shopping & discover Santiago. We didn´t see as much as we expected… Sunday, everything closed, and Monday too: the city of Santiago declared this day as a public holiday given the Pope´s visit in town!

    Yes, we did see Pope Francis!

    It was quite a coincidence really… we were walking back from running some errands in the city centre, we saw that the main road was closed to traffic again – the Pope was driving one last time through Santiago! Fervent Catholics and curious people waited for the Pontifex. Just as planned, around 19:30 he drove past – quite fast, and very very near. I´m not sure this distance would be even considered by the authorities in Europe! Three minutes later, the Carabineros were gone, street re-opened and the masses of people disappeared in the adjacent streets as if nothing hadn´t happened. Only the street vendors reminded the pedestrians about this visit, having to change strategy from a “2 flags for $500 to cheer for Pope Francis” to “3 flags for $500, a lovely memory from this historical visit”.

    We were lucky with our Hostel, it was in the peaceful Providencia area – near to the centre, the Bellavista party district, the huge Mercado de la Vega and top metro connections. We´ve been walking a lot, we love to explore the city by foot! I guess we were the first customers at a gas station that arrived by foot – we were looking for the up-to-date mapas ruteros (road maps) of COPEC, which only sold here!

    We had some tasty food, but we have somehow still not understood the eating habits here: why are the portions so huge? Do they have another side dish which doesn´t involve French fries? Kuchen (cake)? Is it possible to fill absolutely anything with manjar (dulce de leche)? Seems so!    Read more

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    Valparaiso du coole socke

    January 18, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Up and down, and up and down. Cerro arriba, cerro abajo. Walking endless roads, stairs or with the lift - chose your favourite way to get to the top!

    We stayed in the Cerro Alegre, and the district breathes its name´s atmosphere (happiness)! Valparaiso has surprised us. Every corner is colourful, and the locals are incredibly kind and helped us to get around. Getting to know the local public transport is always a challenge! We took a local bus to Vina del Mar - Chileans are good drivers, but fast drivers! However, they are very respectful with pedestrians!

    Have I mentioned that we miss coffee? Somehow, instant coffee is everywhere instead. We even had some very decent coffee, at German price, but good one!    Read more

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    We´re heading (sort of) south!

    January 20, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After a couple of cosmopolitan days, we´ve decided to go south. Our next stop, where we are renting a (small) car is Puerto Montt.

    Getting to the bus station was incredibly fast & cheap – hurray for Uber in Santiago!

    The bus network in Chile is extensive, and strictly regulated. Moreover, the different seating (and pricing) gives you the opportunity to choose according to your needs. After reading and asking around, we decided to book the “cama” category, and that was definitely the right choice for such a long drive (21:50 – 10:10) – we had more than enough space, in the first floor of the double-deck bus and we even got some (apple) juice and cookies, twice. Once at night, just after leaving, and a second one for “breakfast”. My fist “alfajores” here!

    We managed to get more rest than expected. We were surprised that there were no (long) stops, but rather passenger hop-on hop-off stops with quick driver changes. Moreover, information about the journey including (actual) speed and drivers´ information (time driving) was constantly published, with the invitation to complain if as a passenger you felt he was driving too fast/not appropriately.

    We arrived Puerto Montt and our rental car picked us up as agreed. Thumbs up once more for the services, as they actually suggested it themselves (on a Sunday).    Read more

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    Isla Grande de Chiloé – Castro

    January 21, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As we arrived in Puerto Montt, we decided to drive directly somewhere else (sorry Puerto Montt!). We have done some research on the “Lagos” area, where roads are in good condition and decided to take the Panamericana (Route 5) direction south to Chiloé Island, the place where it actually starts! The road is in good conditions, but the tolls are quite expensive though! With the (compulsory) ferry, we paid over 15.000clp (around 20€). Somewhere around Alcud, we decided to take in two hitch-hikers – Pato & Cata. It was quite amusing that after introducing ourselves, none of us wanted to be called by our actual name, but rather by our short or nick-names. Pato & Cata are studying Ciencias Medioambientales, and had just finished their internship. They were heading south, towards the Parque Nacional where they were planning to camp for one week. We drove together until Castro, and parted ways at the Tourist Information Office. We were staying one night in Castro to visit the wooden stilt houses, and they were going to try and get to the next town or even to the park that evening.

    Castro, the capital city of Chiloé Island, turned out to be a charming town. Like every place we have seen until now, extremely hilly.

    I hope you enjoy the pictures (coming up tomorrow from my computer)!    Read more

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    Planning

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    For those who haven´t thought about it, it´s summer in Chile. Until now, it doesn´t translate automatically in extremely high temperatures. Although they are extremely high the moment the sun shines. In the shade/ as soon as the sun goes down, it is quite chilly for this Spaniard! Moreover, it´s quite strange for us to hear “the summer hit of 2018” in the radio. For me, that is not until June/July! Not here…it is summer, and schools are closed until February.

    Why this story about summer? After asking at least 3 people, and running out of battery using google maps in both of our phones (we have a Chilean SIM card to avoid the exorbitant roaming costs), we found our camping site in Castro. It is a primary school which during the summer time, is converted into a camping place! All the campers could use the facilities, hot showers, bathroom and teachers’ kitchen, and high-speed internet (“fibra-optica” as they so proudly explained)! Some of the classrooms where even transformed into bedrooms, as part of a sort of “hostel”. The school director runs the place with her son Fran, and her daughter in law. Absolutely amazing people!

    We decided to take over the dining room, in order to plan our way further south. All of our plans until then consisted on having to be on the 27th of February in Puerto Natales to hop on the 4-day ferry through the fjords back to Puerto Montt. We had to figure out how to get there:
    - Carretera Austral (Route 7)? Which parts are closed due to the earthquake/mud-slides in Santa Lucia? Is it better to drive through Argentina then? Which hikes do we want to do – Villa Castillo, El Chaltén, Chaitén? What was there to do in Tortel again? In Torres del Paine, O-trek or W-trek? When would we be there (all camping places have to be booked in advance).

    So many questions…!

    The dining room became our operations room in the morning – 3 road maps, plus the guides and extra information from in internet. As Ms. Director said – “oh boy, you look like you´re planning a war! Where´s the next battle, and who´s the enemy?”    Read more

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    National Park Chiloé

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Driving there in the early afternoon we found Cata and Pato in an intersection! It turns out they hadn´t made it that far! We drove another hour together.

    Unfortunately, we arrived pretty late and Micha and I could only enjoy 0,2% of the park. We did a couple if short trails and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere before driving back to our camping place, to enjoy dinner at our pupil desks. Being under 1,60m has its advantages ;)Read more

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    On our way to Puerto Varas (Lake region)

    January 23, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We left late as we insisted on making a couple of calls beforehand, making use of the last minutes of decent internet in this school/camping site. Our rent-a-car has had so much patience to answer all of our questions. We have a versicherung (insurance) for the versicherung (insurance) – welcome to Germany – for our next car, and needed to provide some details, which sounded impossible for Chilean standards.

    Problem solved though!    Read more

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    Roaming around LLanquihue Lake

    January 24, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Wilkommen in Deutschland…or mini-old-fashioned Germany, because in this region – Colonos/ siedlers. There are "Deutsche Vereine" (associations), a German school in every town and even in the supermarket I feel like walking down a DM aisle.

    Thanks to a small “camping search” crisis, we landed at “Baumbach”, in Llanquihué. This stunning spot, with a world-class view of the volcano has become our operation basis for this week.    Read more

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    Cochamo

    January 26, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After some nice cooking on a fire stove last night, we headed in the morning towards "La Junta", a 12 km hike through the forest and valley between granite walls.

    It actually reminded us a little of the Thuringian forest. Just denser, thicker, and like everything in Patagonia – magnified.

    This region is called the “Chilean Yosemite” given the great granite walls, a paradise for climbers. After underestimating the time to get to the end of a trail and back, we decided to turn back after asking a group of people how long we have until “La Junta”. It was already 15:00, and had still 40 mins to go. Plus the way back. Mountain experts say, if you are not there before 14 – turn around. That´s what we did! Certainly a very enjoyable hike, not extra challenging because we had our day back packs, but those hikers that were carrying absolutely everything for a multi-day hike - respect!

    Hichthikers back to Cochamó town: 2. A German and Italian middle-aged couple on holidays.    Read more

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    Habemus Camioneta & Camping takeover

    January 27, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We have a camioneta! It´s a(n) (un)practical 4x4 pick-up. Gravel roads, no problem from now on!

    Today we were planning on enjoying the sunshine and lake views from our camping, and while working a little on our next project. That was the theory.

    In practice, due to external reasons we had to change (some) of our plans. We drove into the camping place, and it was full. I mean Chilean full, not German full.

    It took us a couple of minutes to identify our tent (and parcel). We didn´t have a table anymore and “our” electricity post (yes, we have 3 plugs outside – I have asked myself what happens when it rains) was occupied with a boiler and a mini-fridge. Two family groups also lured by the view and easy access to the lake beach, had made themselves comfortable. So much that they even used the lines of our tent to hang cloths to dry. I´m glad we provided such a homey atmosphere that they felt at home. These 30 people, plus another 140 were making “asado”. “Grillen” but the bigger, louder, and I would dare to say somewhat more elaborate yet rustic version. Germans think they are “Grillmeisters” and then they come to Chile (let´s see what our experience is in world- famous Argentina!). I must say, I think it was a humbling experience for German Micha.

    Asado for lunch: by the quantities of food that they had, it could have also been dinner. But as we learnt later, it was only lunch. At 5 they had Kuchen & Café/ Mate – table cloth included, and at 7 the fires when on again, and the same amount of food was placed on the grills and pans. Very German-like actually, just big and without any worries.

    *Cake, is actually also called Kuchen here.

    Also around that day, a local church group first rehearsing, then an open-air mass, and then a baptism (including a lake the lake). Two football teams, around 12 dogs (with and without know owners), jumping castle, jumping board, at least 3 groups of live musicians (traditional and rap), and each group had their own loudspeakers. Reaggeton is popular. Very popular.    Read more

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    The Organisation Chaos.

    January 28, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We were so excited that we managed to book the Ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. Four days, 3 or four nights (we´re not sure). Slow travelling, they call it… we had some problems to book the tickets as the mobile page didn´t work, the telephones online were apparently wrong, and the nearest offices closed during the weekend. I´m becoming an expert in telephone terror, so I keep alternating Skype & mobile just in case. It was important for us to know exactly when we would arrive back in Puerto Montt to know until when we had to book our car. In the reservation, the arrival time as specified as following: Friday 00:00. In the brochure as Friday, and in another PDF, at 10:00 (no week day mentioned). Fortunately, e mail communication works well, and they answered our query and confirmed that we would arrive on Friday 10:00 – if the weather allowed it. We are in Patagonia after all, so…. that´s definitely a variable to bear in mind.

    A couple of days later, I decided to write again, to confirm if the car was included. During the whole booking process, there was no option to book a car. In the brochure and webpage, it stated that the boat had X places for cars (sounded more than enough), so at that moment we assumed that in the price, one car would be included. In the end, it’s a Ferry, and not a cruise as they keep repeating in their advertisements. Micha laughed at the idea – why ask, you can´t book it in the webpage separately, there´s no extra information, no price listings… It´s obvious its included.

    Just in case, I decided to write a polite email asking if under our reservation number “XXXXX” the car was included, and if it wasn´t how much it would cost. To our surprise, the car had to be booked apart, but it wasn´t possible to book it neither online nor in the offices, just through a salesperson. Let´s say that I wasn´t glad to be right, but that I was happy to have asked “just in case”. To close the reservation, we needed the car model, number plate and copy of the car registration. All of which we didn´t have at that moment. I must say, that our experience with sales/ info points are vary greatly. Mostly not very helpful, but not rude. In this case, the salesperson was extremely kind and “pre-booked” a spot, waiting for the info, and payment. No credit card, no paypal and no cash accepted. Just money transfer, and they have not heard of the IBAN or BIC in their lives.

    To pay, I went to a Banco Santander, took a number out like at the fishmongers, and waited 1:45 for my turn. At least in could do the transaction, and write this blog entry :)    Read more

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    Llanquihue

    January 28, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Micha got invited to join the German local club for a walk. So far so good, but apparently in German it sounds hilarious: “… mit der Boerschenschaft aus der Zone marchieren.” He politely declined.

    If you are looking for a camping spot in this region, I would definitely recommend Camping Baumbach. The family business is run by a kind, helpful family with Hamburg roots. It was a pleasure staying here, getting useful tips on the region and on further hikes in Torres del Paine. Moreover, Maria is an excellent baker – Kuchen or Torta, both are absolutely delicious.    Read more

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    Frontera

    January 29, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So here´s some information that could be also included in the Lonely Planet guide: this Chile-Argentina crossing closes at 19:00 in summer. We made it by the skin of our teeth – 18:55. Pure luck!

    All-in-all, an uncomplicated border crossing. We were glad to be going into Argentina, as we saw the cars and queue for car inspection (dogs included) on the other side at customs coming into Chile.

    Between the Chilean check point, and the Argentinian, there are 44 dramatic kilometres. It might have been the nerves, a certain fear of the unknown or simply a coincidence. These 44 kms consisted of a curvy mountain pass, lake views, and a continuous dead forest.    Read more

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    El Bolsón

    January 31, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Backpackers paradise. Hippie paradise. Trekking paradise.

    We wanted to go the next day to the Junta. However, the high temperatures (over 30°C) and charming riverside with some shade stopped us. Chilling in such areas is a privilege. Also no remorse, we only had our trekking stuff so we could not continue reading or planning. Time to enjoy lunch, the sun, and the views. We even saw a couple of wood-peckers!

    Hitch-hikers on the way back to town (one hour drive): 2. Two Argentinians from Buenos Aires that had done a 6-day trek in different Refugio’s and camping’s. It was nearly incredible to hear that as they woke up that morning, their water bottles were Frappuccinos! One of the two guys received 1380 Whatsapp messages as his mobile connected to 3G internet after 5 days without internet access. Boom!

    Enjoy the sunset photos from el Pilquitrin!    Read more

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    Para bailar la Pampa…(or Route 40)

    February 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Travel itinerary:
    Kilometres: 830
    Start time: 10.30
    Beginning Pampa: 11.30
    Stops: 2, in Esquel and in picturesque Rio Mayo.
    Border crossing: 20.30
    Arrived Coyhaique: 22.30

    Micha is exhausted, and so am I. Micha has been driving, all day and I´ve been navigating, charging our cameras, and taking care of “administrative stuff” in these 9 hours’ drive. 80% of the journey was Pampa. For dessert, 150km of gravel road. After finding two full camping places, we managed to avoid sleeping in the car by taking the last spot in Camping la Alborada. Sandra is incredibly guest-friendly and kind, after such a long day, we appreciated that heart-warming welcome.

    We saw Emus, rabbits, alpacas, random cows and sheep. The changing landscapes were fascinating, it reminded us of Iceland, just blown up to another scale. I think actually, Iceland fits several times in the Pampa region we drove through.

    Border-crossing tip: make sure you ALWAYS cross the option that you have food items with you (they will check and probably find something that you are not aware of), and an address in the town you are planning to sleep in. It´ll save a lot of (unnecessary) stress.    Read more

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    Villa Cerro Castillo

    February 2, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    What an amazing valley! I think we are extending our stay.

    Absolutely adore the map we got at the tourist information office. No street names (no need!), and a completely distorted sense of distance. We were told that from our camping place, we should go everywhere by car, as it is outside of town. Literally 700m. We walk.Read more

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    Rescuing Traditions - Festival

    February 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Unexpectedly a trip highlight.

    Morning plan: sheep shearing.

    At 14:00 traditional food tasting, which we didn´t take a bite, apparently in some situations 8 mins is way too late.

    Parade in the afternoon, and horse racing (Carrera Chilena) in the evening. A half an hour before the horse races were supposed to start, I overheard a guy part of the organisation team calling friends/family/acquaintances to see if they were in la Villa. They were looking for racers.

    After dinner, salimos a carretear! Where? Town-gym-transformed-event-hall.

    After mouth-dropping performances of traditional “fantasia de malambo”, and “tambores y boleadoras” the whole town took over the dance floor to the extremely famous “Los Flores de Rucalhue”. Song after song. 4 hours of Rancheritas, pasodobles, corridos and cumbia later, we decided at 3am to leave the next artist “Rafa´s keyboards”.

    Los Chilenos son bien bailones!    Read more

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    Catedral de Marmol

    February 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Never underestimate 100km drive in Patagonia, especially if any of these words are somehow associated: “ripio” & “carretera secundaria”. One tip for the ladies: wear a sport bra.

    The boat trip to the Catedral del Marmol is apparently a compulsory visit in the area. The boat trip, and the extraordinary rock formations was “ok”, a mere 6/10. It was the driving, the views in carretera Austral, and the Lago General Carrera were amazing.

    Our tip: skip this excursion, and enjoy the drive to Chile Chico on your way to the Argentinian border instead. Time & money saving ;)    Read more

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    Cerro Castillo – trekking Emergencia

    February 5, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    After 3 hours of steep trekking and some very light rock climbing, we chilled at the mountain top waiting for the cerro top to show. Unfortunately, never happened! The hike was still amazing, and the views were nearly fantasy-like. A great first hiking experience in Patagiona!Read more

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    Para bailar la Pampa 2

    February 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Strictly speaking, this isn´t Pampa region anymore. But the monotony, and presence of nothing (just landscape) resembled our previous Pampa journey, also along the “Ruta 40”.

    Journey summary:
    Kilometres: 729
    Start time: 11.45
    Border crossing: 13.05
    Stops: 2, for diesel.
    Arrival time at el Chaltén: 00.45

    PS. It is very windy & the clouds formations are amazing.    Read more

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    El Chaltén

    February 9, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We suspect that our car battery has died. Is this Karma? We have been lazy enough to drive to the town centre to grab a couple of empanadas for our 3-day trek and as we wanted to leave to drop our car at the camping place and start trekking, the car would not start.

    There´s no car mechanic in el Chaltén, just a “Gomeria” (tyre repair), but luckily enough they have a battery charger. We´ve been waiting for 5 hours at the bakery in front of our car, and nobody appeared… Manana será otro día.

    I´m not going to go into detail regarding the car rental´s reaction to our problem, because it is not worth it. I´m summarizing it as follows: work on your customer communication skills dearie, there´s room for improvement! Alternatively, let Jenny take over – she´s great with people, and very competent.    Read more

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