Chile & Argentina

January - February 2018
A 31-day adventure by Cova y Micha Read more
  • 27footprints
  • 2countries
  • 31days
  • 70photos
  • 0videos
  • 2.7kkilometers
  • Day 13

    Cochamo

    January 26, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After some nice cooking on a fire stove last night, we headed in the morning towards "La Junta", a 12 km hike through the forest and valley between granite walls.

    It actually reminded us a little of the Thuringian forest. Just denser, thicker, and like everything in Patagonia – magnified.

    This region is called the “Chilean Yosemite” given the great granite walls, a paradise for climbers. After underestimating the time to get to the end of a trail and back, we decided to turn back after asking a group of people how long we have until “La Junta”. It was already 15:00, and had still 40 mins to go. Plus the way back. Mountain experts say, if you are not there before 14 – turn around. That´s what we did! Certainly a very enjoyable hike, not extra challenging because we had our day back packs, but those hikers that were carrying absolutely everything for a multi-day hike - respect!

    Hichthikers back to Cochamó town: 2. A German and Italian middle-aged couple on holidays.
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  • Day 14

    Habemus Camioneta & Camping takeover

    January 27, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We have a camioneta! It´s a(n) (un)practical 4x4 pick-up. Gravel roads, no problem from now on!

    Today we were planning on enjoying the sunshine and lake views from our camping, and while working a little on our next project. That was the theory.

    In practice, due to external reasons we had to change (some) of our plans. We drove into the camping place, and it was full. I mean Chilean full, not German full.

    It took us a couple of minutes to identify our tent (and parcel). We didn´t have a table anymore and “our” electricity post (yes, we have 3 plugs outside – I have asked myself what happens when it rains) was occupied with a boiler and a mini-fridge. Two family groups also lured by the view and easy access to the lake beach, had made themselves comfortable. So much that they even used the lines of our tent to hang cloths to dry. I´m glad we provided such a homey atmosphere that they felt at home. These 30 people, plus another 140 were making “asado”. “Grillen” but the bigger, louder, and I would dare to say somewhat more elaborate yet rustic version. Germans think they are “Grillmeisters” and then they come to Chile (let´s see what our experience is in world- famous Argentina!). I must say, I think it was a humbling experience for German Micha.

    Asado for lunch: by the quantities of food that they had, it could have also been dinner. But as we learnt later, it was only lunch. At 5 they had Kuchen & Café/ Mate – table cloth included, and at 7 the fires when on again, and the same amount of food was placed on the grills and pans. Very German-like actually, just big and without any worries.

    *Cake, is actually also called Kuchen here.

    Also around that day, a local church group first rehearsing, then an open-air mass, and then a baptism (including a lake the lake). Two football teams, around 12 dogs (with and without know owners), jumping castle, jumping board, at least 3 groups of live musicians (traditional and rap), and each group had their own loudspeakers. Reaggeton is popular. Very popular.
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  • Day 15

    The Organisation Chaos.

    January 28, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We were so excited that we managed to book the Ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. Four days, 3 or four nights (we´re not sure). Slow travelling, they call it… we had some problems to book the tickets as the mobile page didn´t work, the telephones online were apparently wrong, and the nearest offices closed during the weekend. I´m becoming an expert in telephone terror, so I keep alternating Skype & mobile just in case. It was important for us to know exactly when we would arrive back in Puerto Montt to know until when we had to book our car. In the reservation, the arrival time as specified as following: Friday 00:00. In the brochure as Friday, and in another PDF, at 10:00 (no week day mentioned). Fortunately, e mail communication works well, and they answered our query and confirmed that we would arrive on Friday 10:00 – if the weather allowed it. We are in Patagonia after all, so…. that´s definitely a variable to bear in mind.

    A couple of days later, I decided to write again, to confirm if the car was included. During the whole booking process, there was no option to book a car. In the brochure and webpage, it stated that the boat had X places for cars (sounded more than enough), so at that moment we assumed that in the price, one car would be included. In the end, it’s a Ferry, and not a cruise as they keep repeating in their advertisements. Micha laughed at the idea – why ask, you can´t book it in the webpage separately, there´s no extra information, no price listings… It´s obvious its included.

    Just in case, I decided to write a polite email asking if under our reservation number “XXXXX” the car was included, and if it wasn´t how much it would cost. To our surprise, the car had to be booked apart, but it wasn´t possible to book it neither online nor in the offices, just through a salesperson. Let´s say that I wasn´t glad to be right, but that I was happy to have asked “just in case”. To close the reservation, we needed the car model, number plate and copy of the car registration. All of which we didn´t have at that moment. I must say, that our experience with sales/ info points are vary greatly. Mostly not very helpful, but not rude. In this case, the salesperson was extremely kind and “pre-booked” a spot, waiting for the info, and payment. No credit card, no paypal and no cash accepted. Just money transfer, and they have not heard of the IBAN or BIC in their lives.

    To pay, I went to a Banco Santander, took a number out like at the fishmongers, and waited 1:45 for my turn. At least in could do the transaction, and write this blog entry :)
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  • Day 15

    Llanquihue

    January 28, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Micha got invited to join the German local club for a walk. So far so good, but apparently in German it sounds hilarious: “… mit der Boerschenschaft aus der Zone marchieren.” He politely declined.

    If you are looking for a camping spot in this region, I would definitely recommend Camping Baumbach. The family business is run by a kind, helpful family with Hamburg roots. It was a pleasure staying here, getting useful tips on the region and on further hikes in Torres del Paine. Moreover, Maria is an excellent baker – Kuchen or Torta, both are absolutely delicious.
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  • Day 16

    Frontera

    January 29, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So here´s some information that could be also included in the Lonely Planet guide: this Chile-Argentina crossing closes at 19:00 in summer. We made it by the skin of our teeth – 18:55. Pure luck!

    All-in-all, an uncomplicated border crossing. We were glad to be going into Argentina, as we saw the cars and queue for car inspection (dogs included) on the other side at customs coming into Chile.

    Between the Chilean check point, and the Argentinian, there are 44 dramatic kilometres. It might have been the nerves, a certain fear of the unknown or simply a coincidence. These 44 kms consisted of a curvy mountain pass, lake views, and a continuous dead forest.
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  • Day 18

    El Bolsón

    January 31, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Backpackers paradise. Hippie paradise. Trekking paradise.

    We wanted to go the next day to the Junta. However, the high temperatures (over 30°C) and charming riverside with some shade stopped us. Chilling in such areas is a privilege. Also no remorse, we only had our trekking stuff so we could not continue reading or planning. Time to enjoy lunch, the sun, and the views. We even saw a couple of wood-peckers!

    Hitch-hikers on the way back to town (one hour drive): 2. Two Argentinians from Buenos Aires that had done a 6-day trek in different Refugio’s and camping’s. It was nearly incredible to hear that as they woke up that morning, their water bottles were Frappuccinos! One of the two guys received 1380 Whatsapp messages as his mobile connected to 3G internet after 5 days without internet access. Boom!

    Enjoy the sunset photos from el Pilquitrin!
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  • Day 19

    Para bailar la Pampa…(or Route 40)

    February 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Travel itinerary:
    Kilometres: 830
    Start time: 10.30
    Beginning Pampa: 11.30
    Stops: 2, in Esquel and in picturesque Rio Mayo.
    Border crossing: 20.30
    Arrived Coyhaique: 22.30

    Micha is exhausted, and so am I. Micha has been driving, all day and I´ve been navigating, charging our cameras, and taking care of “administrative stuff” in these 9 hours’ drive. 80% of the journey was Pampa. For dessert, 150km of gravel road. After finding two full camping places, we managed to avoid sleeping in the car by taking the last spot in Camping la Alborada. Sandra is incredibly guest-friendly and kind, after such a long day, we appreciated that heart-warming welcome.

    We saw Emus, rabbits, alpacas, random cows and sheep. The changing landscapes were fascinating, it reminded us of Iceland, just blown up to another scale. I think actually, Iceland fits several times in the Pampa region we drove through.

    Border-crossing tip: make sure you ALWAYS cross the option that you have food items with you (they will check and probably find something that you are not aware of), and an address in the town you are planning to sleep in. It´ll save a lot of (unnecessary) stress.
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  • Day 20

    Villa Cerro Castillo

    February 2, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    What an amazing valley! I think we are extending our stay.

    Absolutely adore the map we got at the tourist information office. No street names (no need!), and a completely distorted sense of distance. We were told that from our camping place, we should go everywhere by car, as it is outside of town. Literally 700m. We walk.Read more

  • Day 21

    Rescuing Traditions - Festival

    February 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Unexpectedly a trip highlight.

    Morning plan: sheep shearing.

    At 14:00 traditional food tasting, which we didn´t take a bite, apparently in some situations 8 mins is way too late.

    Parade in the afternoon, and horse racing (Carrera Chilena) in the evening. A half an hour before the horse races were supposed to start, I overheard a guy part of the organisation team calling friends/family/acquaintances to see if they were in la Villa. They were looking for racers.

    After dinner, salimos a carretear! Where? Town-gym-transformed-event-hall.

    After mouth-dropping performances of traditional “fantasia de malambo”, and “tambores y boleadoras” the whole town took over the dance floor to the extremely famous “Los Flores de Rucalhue”. Song after song. 4 hours of Rancheritas, pasodobles, corridos and cumbia later, we decided at 3am to leave the next artist “Rafa´s keyboards”.

    Los Chilenos son bien bailones!
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