Backpacking 2022

A 26-day public-transport-crazed backpacking tour of Central/Eastern Europe: the Tatras to the Balkans Read more

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Day 13
Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:08 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 942 m
Albania Përrua Kukaj 42.450456, 19.88899942°27’2” N 19°53’20” E
World Cup Final
July 17, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
[JJ] We played a fearsome match of football with Albjon, one of our hosts at the guesthouse, and some local kids. It was a fiercely contested game, but at the final whistle the score read: Burton Albjon (Albjon & JJ) 11-9 A.F.C. Valbonëmouth (Thomas & others)

We are now celebrating victory (JJ) / defeat (Thomas) with some home made Albanian delicacies. After dinner I even had the pleasure of working through some problems with Albjon who is something of a passionate physics prodigy!Read more
Travelerhow didvyou lose to them. they look about 10 years old !. did the ball roll down the hill from the North stand into your goal. back drop looks amazing....so does the feast. so glad your mixing with the locals & having fun. so good to see.
7/17/22Reply
Travelerhahah they were really good, it was genuinely really competitive. they're very friendly here, we've had a lovely evening
7/17/22Reply
Travelerone of them is even wearing sandals & no shin pads.
7/17/22Reply
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Day 14
Monday, July 18, 2022 at 11:58 AM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 1,444 m
Albania Kukaj 42.46, 19.8842°27’36” N 19°52’48” E
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Valbona Valley
July 18, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
[JJ] so today was a fairly low-key event, which for us apparently means just a 15 km hike and an 800 m ascent. We climbed up to a pretty viewpoint, before then walking on to Liqemi i Xhemës lake. After that we spent the remainder of the day relaxing by the crystal waters of Lumi i Valbones. The water was outrageously cold but it was a very welcome refreshment on a hot day.

When we finally returned to the guesthouse, Albjon challenged us to a football rematch: this time it was England vs Albania, and Thomas and I brought it home emphatically for the boys. So long Valbonë, it's been a real pleasure!

Update: Thomas somehow managed to get stuck in the bathroom as the door spontaneously decided it didn't feel like working any more ahaha. Like an hour of me looking on and chuckling later, and he was finally released after the door had to be kicked down lol (sorry Albjon)Read more
Traveler Can see by your reactions that the water is really cold!! Take care you two adventurers!!
7/18/22Reply
Travelerwill do 😘😘
7/19/22Reply
Traveler Amazing backdrop
7/18/22Reply
Travelerthey're such pretty mountains
7/19/22Reply
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Day 15
Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 12:00 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 1,803 m
Albania Qafa e Valbonës 42.405701, 19.81510142°24’21” N 19°48’54” E
Valbona - Theth Mountain Pass
July 19, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
[JJ] Today was a remarkably beautiful experience. We started early from Rrogam and hiked up the valley and onto Qafa e Valbonës, the mountain pass to the adjacent valley. We had been fearing the route's difficulty in this heat and with all our gear, but we made it to Theth in healthy time and feeling good! We saw numerous incredible views, an array of wildlife and plenty of horses transporting goods between the deep valleysRead more
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Day 15
Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 7:46 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 770 m
Albania Theth 42.397537, 19.77591542°23’51” N 19°46’33” E
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Theth
July 19, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
[JJ] This guesthouse has blown my mind. The view, the food. I don't even know how to express it! We paid €11,50/£9.81 for bounties of food between the two of us. Not only does it taste amazing, but that also includes drinks, along with a free shot of hard-core 50% alcohol content local beverage Raki. And we are treated to this outrageous view of the pristine Theth valley. Almost too good to be true?!Read more
Traveler Who said anything about guest?
7/19/22Reply
Traveler🍽️🍽️🍽️
7/19/22Reply
TravelerA room with a view and a half!!
7/19/22Reply
Traveler😁😁
7/20/22Reply
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Day 16
Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 9:35 AM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 1,013 m
Albania Grumas 42.376455, 19.79678642°22’35” N 19°47’48” E
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Theth Valley
July 20, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
[JJ] Pretty waterfalls, hot weather, more mountains etc. Too tired to be bothered to write more but another fun day:)
Traveler Beautiful scenery and I just spotted this church got wooden roof tiles. 😊 👍
7/20/22Reply
Traveleryes mountain churches are always beautiful
7/20/22Reply
Traveler Wow, quite a massive feast for two hungry travellers! 😋 👏
7/20/22Reply
Traveleryou can say that again
7/20/22Reply
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Day 16
Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 4:22 PM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 623 m
Albania Kaprejë 42.365, 19.74833342°21’54” N 19°44’54” E
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The Blue Eye
July 20, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
[JJ] Hot, so hot. 🥵

Then cold, so cold. 🥶

(Edit: today is also the day I personally reached the 1,000 km mark of walking since the start of my summer)
Traveler 😳
7/20/22Reply
Traveler it's like looking at myself in the mirror 🤣
7/20/22Reply
Travelerblue pool?
7/21/22Reply
Traveleryou missed that reference hundreds of footprints ago
7/21/22Reply
Traveleran actual real life josh comment?!
7/21/22Reply
TravelerBiggest shock of the trip so far
7/21/22Reply
Travelerwell here's to missing another 100
7/21/22Reply
TravelerI hope you know that I'll be cramming in the peep show references in exactly 100 footprints on from now
7/21/22Reply
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Day 17
Thursday, July 21, 2022 at 11:56 AM
☀️ 34 °C
Altitude: 114 m
Albania Kalaja e Rozafatit 42.0466, 19.493342°2’48” N 19°29’36” E
Shkodër
July 21, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
[JJ] Today was definitely a transition day, as our time in Theth came to its end. We took an authentic winding journey through the high mountain pass roads (which are seemingly the only paved roads in the whole of Albania btw) to reach Shkodër, where we've spent much of the day pretty exhausted and zonked in the heat. Nonetheless, we did climb up to Rozafa castle and earn ourselves a few more glistening coats of sweat.Read more
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Day 17
Thursday, July 21, 2022 at 11:02 PM
🌙 27 °C
Altitude: 47 m
Montenegro Savin Potok 42.43751, 19.27285542°26’15” N 19°16’22” E
Podgorica
July 21, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ 🌙 27 °C
Feeling fine, country number nine.
TravelerLovely sunset
7/21/22Reply
Traveler🌄🌄
7/21/22Reply
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Day 18
Friday, July 22, 2022 at 11:50 AM
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 850 m
Montenegro Gornji Manastir Ostrog 42.674863, 19.03051342°40’30” N 19°1’50” E
Ostrog Monastery
July 22, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
[JJ] Our travels this morning took us from the most ramshackle train station for a country capital I've ever seen, to Ostrog, where we immediately (and accidentally) (and successfully?!?!) haggled with a taxi driver as soon as we stepped off the train. The ride took us up to 17th century orthodox Ostrog monastery, remarkably built into the cliffs. We didn't realise quite what an important religious pilgrimage site this was, as crowds flooded in to pay respect to the body of Saint Basil of Ostrog, literally lining up for the chance to kiss his preserved remains. When our turn finally came, the best we could muster was an awkward bow of respect towards his saintly casket before swiftly dipping to explore the rest of the site. Even as clueless tourists though, this was a thoroughly worthwhile visit, and felt like a place for true inner peace.Read more
Travelerdidn't u see anyone? the monks 🙏?
7/22/22Reply
Traveleryes we saw monks and Saint Basil
7/22/22Reply
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Day 18
Friday, July 22, 2022 at 5:01 PM
☀️ 37 °C
Altitude: 630 m
Montenegro Nikšić 42.77036, 18.94559342°46’13” N 18°56’44” E
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Niksic
July 22, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
[JJ] We used a sleepy stopoff at the very relaxed city of Niksic to buy SIM cards, load up on food and enjoy a stroll through some leafy streets.

(Update) ...Aaaaand noooo we just missed our bus! Our very first miss believe it or not. But we enjoyed an evening instead playing cards and dining lavishly as we wait for the next coach.Read more
Traveler 😊😊
7/22/22Reply
TravelerGosh so empty, no people or public about. Probably hvg aftrn siesta? 🤔
7/22/22Reply
Travelerwho knows, but you're right, it's pretty quiet about here
7/22/22Reply
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Day 19
Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 2:00 PM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 2,523 m
Montenegro Durmitor 43.127799, 19.03422343°7’40” N 19°2’3” E
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Bobotov Kuk
July 23, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Our ascent of Montenegro's previously considered tallest mountain started by hopping up to Sedlo Saddle with from the Zabljak hostel via a van. From there we paid the 3€ entrance fee into Durmitor national park before then climbing up to the summit of Bobotov Kuk at 2523m, the highest point of our trip so far. There were some short technical sections and Thomas appeared to suffer with shortness of breath due to altitude (or more likely, illness) at points, but after our experience of completing Rysy, we made light work of it. From there we then descended back to the Saddle and hitchhiked back into Zabljak with the help of some smiley Austrians.Read more
TravelerHow high?? Altitude sickness?! 😳 Glad you made it and are back down ok 😃
7/23/22Reply
Traveler A..maz..ing!
7/23/22Reply
Traveler looks like Stair Hole.. 😳
7/23/22Reply
TravelerI pointed this out at the time, definitely. this was muchhh larger here though
7/23/22Reply
Traveler😊👍👏
7/23/22Reply
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Day 19
Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 7:30 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 1,449 m
Montenegro Klještine 43.15442, 19.12422743°9’16” N 19°7’27” E
Zabljak
July 23, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We arrived late in Zabljak last night and found our way to Hostel Hiker's Den, where we our host is the Montenegrin lookalike of Jay Foreman (he even got us to download a map, even if he is no map man).

After our ventures today, we found our way back again to the hostel and devoured some pasta. Now it's time to educate Thomas with Monty Python and the Holy Grail.Read more
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Day 20
Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 6:08 PM
☁️ 19 °C
Altitude: 1,428 m
Montenegro Crno Jezero 43.146908, 19.09679643°8’49” N 19°5’48” E
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Durmitor National Park
July 24, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
[JJ] Despite some early morning fatigue, we trundled along to Crno Jezero, the black lake. From there, we huffed and puffed our way up to some ice caves at around an altitude of 2200m, then looped back via some craggy paths under a cacophony of thunder. Somehow though the skies have held firm and we're still dry as we bid our final farewell to the national park. Durmitor, you've been a giggle, cheersRead more
Traveler Awesome!
7/24/22Reply
TravelerBeautiful scenery 🤩👏
7/24/22Reply
Traveler at first I thought it's a statue inside this cave 😳🙄
7/24/22Reply
Travelerit does look like that, they're confusing ice structures though, I have no idea how they form
7/25/22Reply
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Day 21
Monday, July 25, 2022 at 11:45 AM
☀️ 37 °C
Altitude: 150 m
Montenegro Kozica 42.362423, 19.05692342°21’45” N 19°3’25” E
Pavlova Strana
July 25, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
After some logistical masterstrokes, we found our way to Pavlova Strana, a beautiful viewpoint over the stunning, snaking river Crnojevica, which flows from Lake Skadar. Photos don't really do it justice, with the immaculate silhouetted mountains above and lilypads carpeting the meandering waters, teeming with wildlife. Why is it so hot🥵Read more
TravelerYou ever thought of doing creative writing? Your word use is immaculate. Looks absolutely stunning!
7/25/22Reply
TravelerI leave my creative streak for coming up with convenient nonsense maths in physics exams duh
7/25/22Reply
TravelerLooks vy idyllic 🤫 again stunning location 🤩👏
7/25/22Reply
Travelerthanks! yes, today was a good day:)
7/25/22Reply
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Day 21
Monday, July 25, 2022 at 5:57 PM
☀️ 34 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Montenegro Pus 42.355698, 19.02559442°21’21” N 19°1’32” E
Rijeka Crnojevica
July 25, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
We plodded downhill to Rijeka Crnojevica in the frankly deathly heat, where we once again refreshed by glugging gallons of cold fanta. After a couple of hours unwinding under the willows and fending off Montenegro's most persistent ducks, we then enjoyed a tranquil kayaking venture, exploring the river (and to Thomas' delight, the resident birdlife) up close.Read more
TravelerLooks great!
7/25/22Reply
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Day 22
Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 12:07 PM
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Montenegro Uvala Pod Fratre 42.277301, 18.83800142°16’38” N 18°50’17” E
Budva
July 26, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Well now we've found where everyone in Montenegro has gone... Budva is a pleasant but touristy destination on the Montenegrin Riviera, with a charming old town. We are spending the day being conventional tourists and taking it easy at Mogren beachRead more
TravelerAbsolutely stunning country. 😍
7/26/22Reply
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Day 22
Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 7:35 PM
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: 50 m
Montenegro Hrid Golubinj 42.256101, 18.8968842°15’22” N 18°53’49” E
Sveti Stefan
July 26, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After some swimming and bringing back the legendary elbowball, we took a leisurely stroll from Budva, through Becici and onto Sveti Stefan, where we are eating dinner at this restaurant with an alright-ish view.Read more
TravelerBeautiful and unspoilt town. 🤩👍
7/26/22Reply
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Day 23
Wednesday, July 27, 2022 at 12:00 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 1,568 m
Montenegro Njegošev Mauzolej 42.399923, 18.8375642°23’60” N 18°50’15” E
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Lovcen
July 27, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
After scraping our comically few coins together to meet the park entrance fee and then passing a wasp off onto an unsuspecting family (lol), we started our day at the top of Lovcen national park having been plonked there by a taxi. We discovered two ways of getting into the mausoleum at the peak for free; by walking in confidently (JJ), and by admitting to not having any cash (Thomas).

On the way down to Kotor, we were trailed by a stray dog we affectionately named Luke. Luke was our perfect third member: loyal, great at hills and loved hunting grasshoppers and rabbits (basically the opposite of Josh, sorry not sorry). On the ladder of Kotor, we only found one way to get in to the city walls for free; accidentally use the secret entrance. It was here that we heavy heartedly had to part ways with our beloved Luke as we descended down into Kotor.Read more
Traveler Aww he looks fun!! 🐾
7/27/22Reply
TravelerLuuuuuuuke! Every good team needs a Luke tagging along
7/27/22Reply
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Day 24
Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 3:00 PM
☀️ 33 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Croatia Sponza Palace 42.641055, 18.110542°38’28” N 18°6’38” E
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Dubrovnik
July 28, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Dubrovnik needs no introduction, with its towering UNESCO world heritage city walls encircling the famous old town. Historically known as Ragusa, it has been part of Italy, Austria-Hungary and even ruled itself as a free state for 500 years.

During our spontaneous daytrip here, we explored the pretty old streets, climbed up to the scenic Mt Srd and dunked our heads into the glistening Adriatic. It really is remarkable to consider that war occurred here as recently as the 90s, especially with surroundings as beautiful as these.Read more
TravelerJJ is definitely the mad king. Thomas you're his Hand
7/28/22Reply
Traveler Beautiful sunset 🌅
7/29/22Reply
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Day 25
Friday, July 29, 2022 at 12:00 PM
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Montenegro Škurda 42.425568, 18.77136342°25’32” N 18°46’17” E
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Kotor
July 29, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Aaaaand finally, Kotor. Here are some photos from basecamp over the past 4 days. Our hostel was right amongst the bustle of the fortified old town, which dates all the way back to 5th century BC. During our stay, we enjoyed numerous sea swims, walking on the lofty walls built high on the limestone cliffs and exploring the nooks and crannies of the pretty streets.Read more
Traveler That looks great!!
7/29/22Reply
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Day 25
Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:45 PM
🌙 29 °C
Altitude: 28 m
Montenegro Podgorica Airport 42.368034, 19.24632842°22’5” N 19°14’47” E
Podgorica Airport
July 29, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ 🌙 29 °C
We think Podgorica gets some unfair hatred from tourists. Don't get us wrong, there's absolutely nothing to do there and the place does have something of a festering rubbish smell, but it's not Belgrade bad.

The journey to the airport was an interesting one; there are no buses that really come here and the train only runs every 3 hours or so; the station doesn't even have a platform, and even that is a good 20 minute walk from the airport itself. Personally, our train was delayed by half an hour seemingly as the driver just fancied a smoke break. But other than that, we have successfully arrived, and checked in at the capital's tiny airport. Now it's just a matter of waiting for our already delayed flight. Balkans, you were never boring!Read more
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Day 26
Saturday, July 30, 2022 at 2:30 AM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 106 m
England Stansted Airport Railway Station 51.890457, 0.26335251°53’26” N 0°15’48” E
London Stansted Airport
July 30, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Some fun facts about this strange new country: the people here religiously eat battered swan every Wednesday for afternoon tea, the winner of Saffron Walden's annual crumpet throwing championship is rewarded with 3 limited edition tunnock's wafer bars, and rumour even has it that if you queue anywhere for long enough the queen will personally come and knight you herself.Read more
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Day 26
Saturday, July 30, 2022 at 5:07 AM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 18 m
England Waterloo Railway Station 51.502507, -0.11188551°30’9” N 0°6’43” W
London
July 30, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Take me back to Belgrade.
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Day 26
Saturday, July 30, 2022 at 7:50 AM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 45 m
England Winton 50.731323, -1.85611750°43’53” N 1°51’22” W
Bournemouth
July 30, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
A highly enjoyable and memorable adventure comes to its end.

This trip involved taking:
42 Buses
10 Trains
7 Taxis
5 Metros
5 Boats
3 Trams
2 Flights
2 Cable cars
1 Hitchhike
...In 11 countries, all in 26 days😅. That's so much travelling you might even forget to summit a few mountains and walk 375+ km in a heatwave in that time too.Read more
TravelerWelcome home and thnx for letting me to follow u both. What a amazing and interesting trip. Vy well done 👏
7/30/22Reply
Travelerthanks Gilly! appreciate you taking an interest
7/30/22Reply
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Trip end
July 30, 2022