Backpacking 2022

A 26-day public-transport-crazed backpacking tour of Central/Eastern Europe: the Tatras to the Balkans En savoir plus

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Backpacking 2022
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Jour 13
dimanche 17 juillet 2022 à 19:08
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 942 m
Albanie Përrua Kukaj 42.450456, 19.88899942°27’2” N 19°53’20” E
World Cup Final
17 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
[JJ] We played a fearsome match of football with Albjon, one of our hosts at the guesthouse, and some local kids. It was a fiercely contested game, but at the final whistle the score read: Burton Albjon (Albjon & JJ) 11-9 A.F.C. Valbonëmouth (Thomas & others)

We are now celebrating victory (JJ) / defeat (Thomas) with some home made Albanian delicacies. After dinner I even had the pleasure of working through some problems with Albjon who is something of a passionate physics prodigy!En savoir plus
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Voyageurhow didvyou lose to them. they look about 10 years old !. did the ball roll down the hill from the North stand into your goal. back drop looks amazing....so does the feast. so glad your mixing with the locals & having fun. so good to see.
17/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurhahah they were really good, it was genuinely really competitive. they're very friendly here, we've had a lovely evening
17/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurone of them is even wearing sandals & no shin pads.
17/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 14
lundi 18 juillet 2022 à 11:58
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 1 444 m
Albanie Kukaj 42.46, 19.8842°27’36” N 19°52’48” E
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Valbona Valley
18 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
[JJ] so today was a fairly low-key event, which for us apparently means just a 15 km hike and an 800 m ascent. We climbed up to a pretty viewpoint, before then walking on to Liqemi i Xhemës lake. After that we spent the remainder of the day relaxing by the crystal waters of Lumi i Valbones. The water was outrageously cold but it was a very welcome refreshment on a hot day.

When we finally returned to the guesthouse, Albjon challenged us to a football rematch: this time it was England vs Albania, and Thomas and I brought it home emphatically for the boys. So long Valbonë, it's been a real pleasure!

Update: Thomas somehow managed to get stuck in the bathroom as the door spontaneously decided it didn't feel like working any more ahaha. Like an hour of me looking on and chuckling later, and he was finally released after the door had to be kicked down lol (sorry Albjon)En savoir plus
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Voyageur Can see by your reactions that the water is really cold!! Take care you two adventurers!!
18/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurwill do 😘😘
19/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur Amazing backdrop
18/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurthey're such pretty mountains
19/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 15
mardi 19 juillet 2022 à 12:00
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 1 803 m
Albanie Qafa e Valbonës 42.405701, 19.81510142°24’21” N 19°48’54” E
Valbona - Theth Mountain Pass
19 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
[JJ] Today was a remarkably beautiful experience. We started early from Rrogam and hiked up the valley and onto Qafa e Valbonës, the mountain pass to the adjacent valley. We had been fearing the route's difficulty in this heat and with all our gear, but we made it to Theth in healthy time and feeling good! We saw numerous incredible views, an array of wildlife and plenty of horses transporting goods between the deep valleysEn savoir plus
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Jour 15
mardi 19 juillet 2022 à 19:46
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 770 m
Albanie Theth 42.397537, 19.77591542°23’51” N 19°46’33” E
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Theth
19 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
[JJ] This guesthouse has blown my mind. The view, the food. I don't even know how to express it! We paid €11,50/£9.81 for bounties of food between the two of us. Not only does it taste amazing, but that also includes drinks, along with a free shot of hard-core 50% alcohol content local beverage Raki. And we are treated to this outrageous view of the pristine Theth valley. Almost too good to be true?!En savoir plus
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Voyageur Who said anything about guest?
19/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur🍽️🍽️🍽️
19/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurA room with a view and a half!!
19/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur😁😁
20/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 16
mercredi 20 juillet 2022 à 09:35
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 1 013 m
Albanie Grumas 42.376455, 19.79678642°22’35” N 19°47’48” E
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Theth Valley
20 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
[JJ] Pretty waterfalls, hot weather, more mountains etc. Too tired to be bothered to write more but another fun day:)
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Voyageur Beautiful scenery and I just spotted this church got wooden roof tiles. 😊 👍
20/07/2022Répondre
Voyageuryes mountain churches are always beautiful
20/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur Wow, quite a massive feast for two hungry travellers! 😋 👏
20/07/2022Répondre
Voyageuryou can say that again
20/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 16
mercredi 20 juillet 2022 à 16:22
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 623 m
Albanie Kaprejë 42.365, 19.74833342°21’54” N 19°44’54” E
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The Blue Eye
20 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
[JJ] Hot, so hot. 🥵

Then cold, so cold. 🥶

(Edit: today is also the day I personally reached the 1,000 km mark of walking since the start of my summer)
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Voyageur 😳
20/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur it's like looking at myself in the mirror 🤣
20/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurblue pool?
21/07/2022Répondre
Voyageuryou missed that reference hundreds of footprints ago
21/07/2022Répondre
Voyageuran actual real life josh comment?!
21/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurBiggest shock of the trip so far
21/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurwell here's to missing another 100
21/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurI hope you know that I'll be cramming in the peep show references in exactly 100 footprints on from now
21/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 17
jeudi 21 juillet 2022 à 11:56
☀️ 34 °C
Altitude: 114 m
Albanie Kalaja e Rozafatit 42.0466, 19.493342°2’48” N 19°29’36” E
Shkodër
21 juillet 2022, Albanie ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
[JJ] Today was definitely a transition day, as our time in Theth came to its end. We took an authentic winding journey through the high mountain pass roads (which are seemingly the only paved roads in the whole of Albania btw) to reach Shkodër, where we've spent much of the day pretty exhausted and zonked in the heat. Nonetheless, we did climb up to Rozafa castle and earn ourselves a few more glistening coats of sweat.En savoir plus
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Jour 17
jeudi 21 juillet 2022 à 23:02
🌙 27 °C
Altitude: 47 m
Monténégro Savin Potok 42.43751, 19.27285542°26’15” N 19°16’22” E
Podgorica
21 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ 🌙 27 °C
Feeling fine, country number nine.
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VoyageurLovely sunset
21/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur🌄🌄
21/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 18
vendredi 22 juillet 2022 à 11:50
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 850 m
Monténégro Gornji Manastir Ostrog 42.674863, 19.03051342°40’30” N 19°1’50” E
Ostrog Monastery
22 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
[JJ] Our travels this morning took us from the most ramshackle train station for a country capital I've ever seen, to Ostrog, where we immediately (and accidentally) (and successfully?!?!) haggled with a taxi driver as soon as we stepped off the train. The ride took us up to 17th century orthodox Ostrog monastery, remarkably built into the cliffs. We didn't realise quite what an important religious pilgrimage site this was, as crowds flooded in to pay respect to the body of Saint Basil of Ostrog, literally lining up for the chance to kiss his preserved remains. When our turn finally came, the best we could muster was an awkward bow of respect towards his saintly casket before swiftly dipping to explore the rest of the site. Even as clueless tourists though, this was a thoroughly worthwhile visit, and felt like a place for true inner peace.En savoir plus
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Voyageurdidn't u see anyone? the monks 🙏?
22/07/2022Répondre
Voyageuryes we saw monks and Saint Basil
22/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 18
vendredi 22 juillet 2022 à 17:01
☀️ 37 °C
Altitude: 630 m
Monténégro Nikšić 42.77036, 18.94559342°46’13” N 18°56’44” E
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Niksic
22 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
[JJ] We used a sleepy stopoff at the very relaxed city of Niksic to buy SIM cards, load up on food and enjoy a stroll through some leafy streets.

(Update) ...Aaaaand noooo we just missed our bus! Our very first miss believe it or not. But we enjoyed an evening instead playing cards and dining lavishly as we wait for the next coach.En savoir plus
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Voyageur 😊😊
22/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurGosh so empty, no people or public about. Probably hvg aftrn siesta? 🤔
22/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurwho knows, but you're right, it's pretty quiet about here
22/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 19
samedi 23 juillet 2022 à 14:00
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 2 523 m
Monténégro Durmitor 43.127799, 19.03422343°7’40” N 19°2’3” E
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Bobotov Kuk
23 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Our ascent of Montenegro's previously considered tallest mountain started by hopping up to Sedlo Saddle with from the Zabljak hostel via a van. From there we paid the 3€ entrance fee into Durmitor national park before then climbing up to the summit of Bobotov Kuk at 2523m, the highest point of our trip so far. There were some short technical sections and Thomas appeared to suffer with shortness of breath due to altitude (or more likely, illness) at points, but after our experience of completing Rysy, we made light work of it. From there we then descended back to the Saddle and hitchhiked back into Zabljak with the help of some smiley Austrians.En savoir plus
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VoyageurHow high?? Altitude sickness?! 😳 Glad you made it and are back down ok 😃
23/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur A..maz..ing!
23/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur looks like Stair Hole.. 😳
23/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurI pointed this out at the time, definitely. this was muchhh larger here though
23/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur😊👍👏
23/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 19
samedi 23 juillet 2022 à 19:30
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 1 449 m
Monténégro Klještine 43.15442, 19.12422743°9’16” N 19°7’27” E
Zabljak
23 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We arrived late in Zabljak last night and found our way to Hostel Hiker's Den, where we our host is the Montenegrin lookalike of Jay Foreman (he even got us to download a map, even if he is no map man).

After our ventures today, we found our way back again to the hostel and devoured some pasta. Now it's time to educate Thomas with Monty Python and the Holy Grail.En savoir plus
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Jour 20
dimanche 24 juillet 2022 à 18:08
☁️ 19 °C
Altitude: 1 428 m
Monténégro Crno Jezero 43.146908, 19.09679643°8’49” N 19°5’48” E
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Durmitor National Park
24 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
[JJ] Despite some early morning fatigue, we trundled along to Crno Jezero, the black lake. From there, we huffed and puffed our way up to some ice caves at around an altitude of 2200m, then looped back via some craggy paths under a cacophony of thunder. Somehow though the skies have held firm and we're still dry as we bid our final farewell to the national park. Durmitor, you've been a giggle, cheersEn savoir plus
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Voyageur Awesome!
24/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurBeautiful scenery 🤩👏
24/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur at first I thought it's a statue inside this cave 😳🙄
24/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurit does look like that, they're confusing ice structures though, I have no idea how they form
25/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 21
lundi 25 juillet 2022 à 11:45
☀️ 37 °C
Altitude: 150 m
Monténégro Kozica 42.362423, 19.05692342°21’45” N 19°3’25” E
Pavlova Strana
25 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
After some logistical masterstrokes, we found our way to Pavlova Strana, a beautiful viewpoint over the stunning, snaking river Crnojevica, which flows from Lake Skadar. Photos don't really do it justice, with the immaculate silhouetted mountains above and lilypads carpeting the meandering waters, teeming with wildlife. Why is it so hot🥵En savoir plus
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VoyageurYou ever thought of doing creative writing? Your word use is immaculate. Looks absolutely stunning!
25/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurI leave my creative streak for coming up with convenient nonsense maths in physics exams duh
25/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurLooks vy idyllic 🤫 again stunning location 🤩👏
25/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurthanks! yes, today was a good day:)
25/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 21
lundi 25 juillet 2022 à 17:57
☀️ 34 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Monténégro Pus 42.355698, 19.02559442°21’21” N 19°1’32” E
Rijeka Crnojevica
25 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
We plodded downhill to Rijeka Crnojevica in the frankly deathly heat, where we once again refreshed by glugging gallons of cold fanta. After a couple of hours unwinding under the willows and fending off Montenegro's most persistent ducks, we then enjoyed a tranquil kayaking venture, exploring the river (and to Thomas' delight, the resident birdlife) up close.En savoir plus
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VoyageurLooks great!
25/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 22
mardi 26 juillet 2022 à 12:07
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: Niveau de la mer
Monténégro Uvala Pod Fratre 42.277301, 18.83800142°16’38” N 18°50’17” E
Budva
26 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Well now we've found where everyone in Montenegro has gone... Budva is a pleasant but touristy destination on the Montenegrin Riviera, with a charming old town. We are spending the day being conventional tourists and taking it easy at Mogren beachEn savoir plus
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VoyageurAbsolutely stunning country. 😍
26/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 22
mardi 26 juillet 2022 à 19:35
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: 50 m
Monténégro Hrid Golubinj 42.256101, 18.8968842°15’22” N 18°53’49” E
Sveti Stefan
26 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After some swimming and bringing back the legendary elbowball, we took a leisurely stroll from Budva, through Becici and onto Sveti Stefan, where we are eating dinner at this restaurant with an alright-ish view.En savoir plus
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VoyageurBeautiful and unspoilt town. 🤩👍
26/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 23
mercredi 27 juillet 2022 à 12:00
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 1 568 m
Monténégro Njegošev Mauzolej 42.399923, 18.8375642°23’60” N 18°50’15” E
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Lovcen
27 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
After scraping our comically few coins together to meet the park entrance fee and then passing a wasp off onto an unsuspecting family (lol), we started our day at the top of Lovcen national park having been plonked there by a taxi. We discovered two ways of getting into the mausoleum at the peak for free; by walking in confidently (JJ), and by admitting to not having any cash (Thomas).

On the way down to Kotor, we were trailed by a stray dog we affectionately named Luke. Luke was our perfect third member: loyal, great at hills and loved hunting grasshoppers and rabbits (basically the opposite of Josh, sorry not sorry). On the ladder of Kotor, we only found one way to get in to the city walls for free; accidentally use the secret entrance. It was here that we heavy heartedly had to part ways with our beloved Luke as we descended down into Kotor.En savoir plus
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Voyageur Aww he looks fun!! 🐾
27/07/2022Répondre
VoyageurLuuuuuuuke! Every good team needs a Luke tagging along
27/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 24
jeudi 28 juillet 2022 à 15:00
☀️ 33 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Croatie Sponza Palace 42.641055, 18.110542°38’28” N 18°6’38” E
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Dubrovnik
28 juillet 2022, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Dubrovnik needs no introduction, with its towering UNESCO world heritage city walls encircling the famous old town. Historically known as Ragusa, it has been part of Italy, Austria-Hungary and even ruled itself as a free state for 500 years.

During our spontaneous daytrip here, we explored the pretty old streets, climbed up to the scenic Mt Srd and dunked our heads into the glistening Adriatic. It really is remarkable to consider that war occurred here as recently as the 90s, especially with surroundings as beautiful as these.En savoir plus
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VoyageurJJ is definitely the mad king. Thomas you're his Hand
28/07/2022Répondre
Voyageur Beautiful sunset 🌅
29/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 25
vendredi 29 juillet 2022 à 12:00
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Monténégro Škurda 42.425568, 18.77136342°25’32” N 18°46’17” E
1
Kotor
29 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Aaaaand finally, Kotor. Here are some photos from basecamp over the past 4 days. Our hostel was right amongst the bustle of the fortified old town, which dates all the way back to 5th century BC. During our stay, we enjoyed numerous sea swims, walking on the lofty walls built high on the limestone cliffs and exploring the nooks and crannies of the pretty streets.En savoir plus
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Voyageur That looks great!!
29/07/2022Répondre
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Jour 25
vendredi 29 juillet 2022 à 20:45
🌙 29 °C
Altitude: 28 m
Monténégro Podgorica Airport 42.368034, 19.24632842°22’5” N 19°14’47” E
Podgorica Airport
29 juillet 2022, Monténégro ⋅ 🌙 29 °C
We think Podgorica gets some unfair hatred from tourists. Don't get us wrong, there's absolutely nothing to do there and the place does have something of a festering rubbish smell, but it's not Belgrade bad.

The journey to the airport was an interesting one; there are no buses that really come here and the train only runs every 3 hours or so; the station doesn't even have a platform, and even that is a good 20 minute walk from the airport itself. Personally, our train was delayed by half an hour seemingly as the driver just fancied a smoke break. But other than that, we have successfully arrived, and checked in at the capital's tiny airport. Now it's just a matter of waiting for our already delayed flight. Balkans, you were never boring!En savoir plus
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Jour 26
samedi 30 juillet 2022 à 02:30
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 106 m
Angleterre Stansted Airport Railway Station 51.890457, 0.26335251°53’26” N 0°15’48” E
London Stansted Airport
30 juillet 2022, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Some fun facts about this strange new country: the people here religiously eat battered swan every Wednesday for afternoon tea, the winner of Saffron Walden's annual crumpet throwing championship is rewarded with 3 limited edition tunnock's wafer bars, and rumour even has it that if you queue anywhere for long enough the queen will personally come and knight you herself.En savoir plus
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Jour 26
samedi 30 juillet 2022 à 05:07
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Angleterre Waterloo Railway Station 51.502507, -0.11188551°30’9” N 0°6’43” W
London
30 juillet 2022, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Take me back to Belgrade.
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Jour 26
samedi 30 juillet 2022 à 07:50
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 45 m
Angleterre Winton 50.731323, -1.85611750°43’53” N 1°51’22” W
Bournemouth
30 juillet 2022, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
A highly enjoyable and memorable adventure comes to its end.

This trip involved taking:
42 Buses
10 Trains
7 Taxis
5 Metros
5 Boats
3 Trams
2 Flights
2 Cable cars
1 Hitchhike
...In 11 countries, all in 26 days😅. That's so much travelling you might even forget to summit a few mountains and walk 375+ km in a heatwave in that time too.En savoir plus
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VoyageurWelcome home and thnx for letting me to follow u both. What a amazing and interesting trip. Vy well done 👏
30/07/2022Répondre
Voyageurthanks Gilly! appreciate you taking an interest
30/07/2022Répondre
10 j’aime
Fin du voyage
30 juillet 2022