Syros-Ermoupoli

Today is the last full day in Syros so I’m taking myself up, up, and away to the Ano Syros. This is the original town that was built high on a hill (Surprise!) to keep the marauding pirates at bay (literally!). Back in the day, pirates would plunder coastal villages, so this one was built high up. Now, I would like to elude to the fact that I walked up (you can, if your in your 20’s and are fitter than I was in my 20’s) but I walked down to the port and grabbed a taxi. He dropped me off at the beginning of the town (no roads up here) and I start my climb.

I have come to see the Cathedral of St George. Originally built in 1200’s it was destroyed in 1617 by the Turks, who then hanged the bishop and his vicar. In 1652 it became the cathedral for the Roman Catholic diocese for Syros and Mykonos. There are only 50,000 Roman Catholics in Greece (left over from the Venetian rule) and most live on Syros. This is not a huge church as other cathedrals are in Europe however; it is just a serene and beautiful. The walk up is through little paths that lead to people’s homes. I have no idea how people found their way in these little villages. They must have known everyone and just kept thinking: “Turn left at Mary’s house, up three sets of stairs, turn left at Peter’s house with the cat, up two sets of stairs, turn right and Paul’s house is the first one on the right”. Other than a different house plant on the stoop, I can’t tell the difference.

I do make it up to the church (there are signs and my trusty Google Maps). There are not many people up here today, if I have passed 6 people the entire time that would be pushing it. The church sits at the very top of the mountain and has a commanding view of Ermoupoli below. It is quiet and peaceful up here. The church has columns and a walkway around the entrance to shade you from the elements. Inside the church is cool and quiet. It has the same blue colour of the Orthodox churches I have been in, which makes me think that this is just the colours in Greece and not a secular thing. It looks as if some repair work is being done on the ceiling but the overall effect is very nice. There are some wonderful paintings but no stained glass that you would expect in a cathedral. The baptism is the oldest part of the cathedral and is off to the one side of the main church. There is a grave stone inside the church but I couldn’t find out who is buried there.

I leave the church and make my way down the village to the camara which is where the village begins. On my way, I find sleeping cats, houses adorned with flower pots on their door steps and only one other person. I do see a pharmacy but no other stores. Where do they get groceries? Do they drive down to Ermoupoli for their food and stuff? Don’t know. When I get to the bottom, I find a taxi dropping someone else off. Bonus!!! I ask if he will take me back to port and hop in. Yeah, I’m a wimp but I have more than made my step count every day (most of it up stairs and hills!).
Back in Ermoupoli, I pick a restaurant for dinner. This place was called Mammo and was on the main port street. Service was awful, food mediocre, the view is what saved it. I ordered an appetizer, glass of white wine and a main. The main course came, with no wine or appetizer. I called the waitress over (someone else delivered the dish) and she went and got the rest of my order. She never came back to check on me. I had to get up and walk into the main part of the restaurant to pay. Guess how much her tip was!

I head back to my place and pack. Tomorrow I’m off to my final destination in Greece, which is Athens. Talk to you there!Read more