St Vitus Cathedral & Old Royal Palace

The first building I explored within Prague Castle was the magnificent St Vitus Cathedral, and the sheer scale of the place is almost overwhelming! Construction began in 1344, during the reign of Charles IV, but remarkably, the cathedral wasn't finally completed until 1929, almost 600 years later. Its soaring Gothic arches, enormous vaulted ceilings and elaborate stonework are breathtaking, but what particularly caught my attention was the beautiful stained glass. Some of the windows looked surprisingly modern, with wonderfully vibrant colours and designs, and I've since discovered that many were created in the early 20th century, including a stunning Art Nouveau window by the famous Czech artist Alfons Mucha. Another extraordinary sight was the magnificent silver tomb of St John of Nepomuk, the same saint whose statue we'd seen earlier on Charles Bridge. Created in the 18th century, it's an incredibly elaborate Baroque monument that really catches the eye. The cathedral is also the final resting place of Charles IV, who is buried in the royal crypt beneath the building, although unfortunately I didn't manage to see his tomb. 

Just like Charles Bridge, the cathedral was absolutely thronging with tourists, and I found the crowds rather overwhelming. I explored as much as I comfortably could, admired the extraordinary architecture and artwork, and then decided it was time to move on. It's undoubtedly one of Prague's most spectacular buildings, but I would have loved to experience it in a quieter moment, when there was more opportunity to appreciate its beauty and atmosphere.

My next stop within Prague Castle was the Old Royal Palace, which, I have to admit, I found a little disappointing after the splendour of St Vitus Cathedral. The palace dates back to the 12th century, although it has been rebuilt and extended many times, and for centuries it served as the residence of Bohemian princes and kings. Its most impressive feature is Vladislav Hall, built at the end of the 15th century, with a magnificent late Gothic vaulted ceiling. This enormous hall was used for coronation celebrations, royal banquets and even jousting tournaments, with knights riding their horses into the building via a specially designed staircase! 

The palace is also associated with the famous Defenestration of Prague in 1618, when two Catholic imperial officials and their secretary were thrown from a window by Protestant nobles, an event that helped trigger the Thirty Years' War. All three men survived the fall! Catholics later attributed their survival to divine intervention, while Protestant accounts offered a rather less miraculous explanation involving the material they landed on.

Fascinating history, but I have to say that the rooms themselves seemed rather plain, and there were surprisingly few areas open to visitors. There was apparently a balcony offering wonderful views across Prague, but it was being used by school groups, so I couldn't get out there. Once again, the palace was extremely crowded, and I didn't linger long enough to read all the information boards. Perhaps I was expecting something a little more lavish, but after a quick look around, I decided to move on to the next building on my castle circuit.Read more