Another church and a meet-up with Channi

The third building I visited within Prague Castle was the beautiful Basilica of St George, which felt very different from the grandeur of St Vitus Cathedral. Founded around 920 by Prince Vratislav I, it is one of the oldest surviving churches in Prague, although much of the building we see today dates from the 12th century, when it was rebuilt following a devastating fire. Its striking red Baroque façade, added in the 17th century, hides a much older and simpler Romanesque interior, with thick stone walls, rounded arches and a wonderfully atmospheric sense of history. 

The basilica was closely connected to the Bohemian royal family and became the burial place of several early rulers, including Prince Vratislav I. St Ludmila, the grandmother of St Wenceslas and one of Bohemia's earliest Christian saints, is buried in the basilica. She was murdered in 921 during a dynastic and religious power struggle and later became one of the country's most revered saints. 

The church also formed part of St George's Convent, established in 973 as the first convent for Benedictine nuns in Bohemia. 

What particularly caught my attention were the beautiful surviving frescoes, decorating the ceilings and alcoves, some dating back to the medieval period. Once again, the church was very busy with visitors, but I managed to find a quiet corner where I could sit for a few minutes, admire the artwork and try to imagine what this ancient building must have felt like centuries ago, without the constant stream of tourists. After the overwhelming scale of the cathedral and the rather disappointing Royal Palace, it was lovely simply to sit and appreciate the atmosphere of this remarkable little church.

My final stop on the Prague Castle circuit was Golden Lane, a narrow street lined with tiny, brightly coloured cottages tucked against the castle walls. Dating back to the late 16th century, the houses were originally built to accommodate castle guards and later became home to craftsmen, servants and poorer residents. Despite its name, the lane wasn't actually home to goldsmiths in its earliest days, although goldsmiths did live and work here later. There are also legends about alchemists trying to turn ordinary metals into gold, but these stories are more folklore than historical fact. 

Micha, had compared Golden Lane to the famous Shambles in York, so I was particularly looking forward to seeing it. However, I have to say that, for me, there was absolutely no resemblance! The cottages looked almost too perfect, with their freshly painted façades, and the whole street felt rather like a reconstruction, although the buildings are genuinely historic and have been extensively restored. Many of the cottages now operate as souvenir shops, which didn't particularly interest me. I did venture into number 22, associated with the famous writer Franz Kafka, only to discover that it, too, was a shop. The lady working there explained that Kafka didn't actually live there permanently; the cottage belonged to his sister, and he used it as a peaceful retreat where he could write after work. Once again, the crowds were enormous, making it difficult to appreciate the atmosphere of the little street. I'm glad I saw Golden Lane, but it wasn't really my thing, and certainly not the medieval experience I had imagined. Having completed my castle circuit, I made my way out through the lower gate, ready to continue exploring Prague.

Just outside the gate, there is a vantage point, from where I got my first view of the striking red rooftops of Prague. I then made my way down the cobbled steps to end up in Lesser Town. I took it very slowly as I'm still getting used to my varifocals! Going down stairs is particularly bad as it feels like the ground is coming up to meet me!

I returned to the stop where we had caught the tram up to the castle as I had seen a farmer's market there. There were some interesting stalls. I ignored the guy selling Lincolnshire cheese! Instead, I bought a small piece of local cheese made from a mixture of cow's and sheep milk, and flavoured with truffle. It was delicious. 

I got a message from Channi. She wasn't far behind me, so we arranged to meet for a coffee. We sat at an outside table and chatted nonstop for a couple of hours. She was very good company. We then decided to have dinner together. We made our way back to Charles Bridge and went to a restaurant that Micha had recommended earlier. I wasn't particularly hungry, so I just ordered a starter of goulash soup. Unbeknown to me, it was served in a whole loaf! It was very good, but I couldn't eat the 'bowl' 😂. It had been a carb-filled day!

After dinner, I said goodbye to Channi and made my way back to Lipanska on the tram - with a valid ticket this time! 😀Read more