Day 21 -Rabe de Calzadas to Hontanas 18k

I was off at 6:50am this morning. Still dark with headlamp on. It was dark until about 7:30 when I could turn the light off. It was a cool experience to walk at that time. It was a foggy morning so it gave an even more eerie sense. Funny thing is, I feel completely safe on the camino, alone in the dark.

The fog in the headlamp was kind of like having the static of the TV right in front of your face. At times it felt like I was in a movie where they were transporting me to a different time with the movement of the fog quickly around me. It is very hard to describe, but I did capture some of it on video.

I felt great today during the walk. The plan was to go at least 18km, but was probably going to go around 27 if I could. I have a reservation in Boadilla Del Camino tomorrow which is a total of 47kms away. So I needed to do this in 2 days. I figured if I felt good, I would just keep going. Well, I did feel good, but I didn’t keep going as I came upon an albergue that I just loved. It is about 1.5km before Hontanas, so out in the middle of nowhere, only looking out into the fields. It was so peaceful and has a restaurant with great food. I stopped for lunch, but decided to stay.

So, of course, this means that I have a 30km day for tomorrow ... YIKES! The place tomorrow is special though and worth the distance. 14 years ago I stopped there just for lunch. I wasn’t with Jörg as we were walking separately. I met the owner and when I told him I was from London Ontario, he said he had a friend in London and asked if I would take a postcard home with me. I did just that, I carried the postcard the rest of the camino and hand delivered it to his friend in London.

When I made the reservation, I sent him the picture of him and me holding the post card. I reminded him that I delivered the card for him and he replied “Amazing, you made sooo special now”

I warned him I might not arrive until late afternoon, so the good thing is I don’t have to worry about the bed, he knows I will be late. So I can take all the time I need. Today I forced myself to take a break every 5km and it really paid off. When I hit 18km, I still had no pains, could definitely go further so I am feeling pretty confident about tomorrow.

It is pretty clear I am in the Meseta now. I must say, I really do like it. I just love the big sky, it is similar to the skies of Saskatchewan or southern Alberta. The app I use, called Wise Pilgrim, has the camino divided into three sections; Body, Mind, Spirit. The first part was the Body. It was the time you are building up the strength in your body. I just finished that section and have now entered the “Mind” section and it is pretty clear why. When all you see is endless fields and sky where the landscape rarely changes, there is nothing to grab your attention, so your thoughts begin to turn inward.

I was thinking of Jörg today (like I do everyday), but today I was really focused on how his life was cut way too short. He had so much more to give, and he really loved to give! I know we were together 14 years, but it really feels like we were just getting started.

I was also thinking about how we were different types of travellers but we complimented each other. I think what he loved most about travelling was meeting people and getting to know them and what I love about travelling is seeing the sights, the nature, the views and all the feelings those arouse. He absolutely loved the camino for the people. He would get so excited when he would run into someone he had already met along the way. I am the opposite. I am doing most of my walking alone and keeping to myself most of the time. Well, my extrovert personality won’t allow me to be completely alone, it is just my nature to try and talk to people, but I am not doing it so much now. I really look forward to my alone time.

Ok, I have been rambling on enough today. That is what happens when you finish your walking day at noon in the middle of nowhere.

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