• Malta

      26. feb.–4. mar., Malta ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

      I didn't study up on Malta. I figured we'd just wing it. We've been looking forward to visiting Sicily and mainland Italy more. But wow, what a pleasant surprise.

      I'm a history buff, and there's SO much that's happened here. It's the key to the Mediterranean and has been for thousands of years. And that's why so many cultures have invaded and eventually lost power.

      Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Normans, Spanish, the Knights of St. John, French, English...... They've all laid claim to Malta. The Knights of St. John were crusaders who were kicked out of Jerusalem, Cyprus, Rhodes, and were then given Malta as a base by the Spanish crown. They lasted a few hundred years until Napoleon came. And I have to admit I chose to visit Malta partially because we had a Maltese dog for years and wanted to visit his homeland. We also brought his cremated ashes. So yes, we're that type of people.

      What all that history translates to is a great mix of cultures and language and food. The Maltese language is actually a combination of Arabic and Italian all blended together. English is the other official language and that makes everything pretty easy for us. But there's also so many foreign immigrants that live here that are working in the service industry. Our Polish ride share driver from the airport was pretty much complaining about too many immigrants. "Five years ago, no South Asians. Now? 200,000!"

      It's late February but the weather is great. I don't mind daytime temperatures in the 60s at all. And while it's off season, there's still a fair amount of tourists here. But surprisingly, Malta is easy on the wallet. Food, wine and coffee is cheaper than what we were paying in Argentina just a couple months ago. And Deanne found a large two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment a block from the beach for only $63 a night. Off-season travel rocks!

      Most of the older buildings are made of limestone and they are stunning. The main Cathedral for the Knights of St. John is called of course St. John's Cathedral. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but the inside is an amazing baroque masterpiece. The head of the order was called The grandmaster and his palace is now a large state museum. It has the largest collection of medieval weapons and armor I've ever seen.

      Our friend Louie arrived from New York 2 days after we arrived to travel with us for a little while. His partner Derek will join us in a few days. So we had a couple days to see some sights alone including Fort San Angelo, the main fort of the Knights of St John. Malta has plentiful deep harbors and that's one of the reasons so many empires wanted to control Malta.

      It's much faster to take a short ferry instead of a bus or taxi for many sights. For the same cost as a bus, you can zip across a harbor to be at Valletta from Sliema, Fort San Angelo, or one of the "Three Cities" which are 3 peninsulas that jut out into the harbor. We just love walking around the narrow streets here.

      Fortunately for us it's Carnival time and it's a big deal here. Many of the historical buildings and the Carnival parades are in Valletta. We're staying in Sliema, just a 10-15 minute cab drive away. We knew there was a parade in Valletta last night so we just hung out there after a delicious lunch and had a few drinks and watched the carnival revelers setup. It's a fairly low-key and family affair which is nice.

      Deanne and Louie had separately found a Michelin starred restaurant nearby that they wanted to try and on a whim we stopped in for dinner and were able to be seated within 15 minutes. That was after watching many of the floats go by. We thought we were done with Carnival by then and had a leisurely meal. It was amazing and again, very easy on the wallet. When we were done we started walking back to an area where we could take a cab and realized the Carnival parade was still going on and we caught up to it. What a great day. By 10:20 pm the parade was over, the cleanup crews were going strong, there was no vomit and no violence either. This ain't no Bourbon Street.

      The next day we took a rideshare to the center of the island. The original capital was called Mdina and it's a walled city surrounded by a moat. It was another sunny day to walk through history. Mdina is situated right next to Rabat, which has its own charms. We found a pastry shop and had to pass on the Cannolis as two of the three of us are gluten free. We opted for a coconut chocolate nougat candy. One bite in we were like "oh my God it's a homemade Mounds bar!" But so much better. They were one Euro each. We literally have sticker shock (the good kind) and we're hoping no one tells them that they're under selling everything here.

      The next day there was some debauchery at more Carnival parades. And in our last full day we took a boat cruise to the second main island of Malta called Gozo. The six days and nights here went very quickly and it's been a blast. I can't help but recommend Malta as a vacation spot. We just happened to be here for Carnival, a huge bonus. Tomorrow morning we're taking a very early ferry to Sicily where we start the next leg of our trip.

      More photos and videos are here.
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/gCHBfjMgccNgTBvt6

      Carnival photos are here.

      https://photos.app.goo.gl/eqJbAfc4rWPEoDQw6
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    • Valparaiso, Chile

      25.–27. jan., Chile ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

      Sooooo many hills, sooooo much street art. That's Valpo, or Valparaiso, Chile's 2nd largest city after Santiago. It's built on multiple steep hills overlooking Chile's largest port on the Pacific. This was a major stop for ships that went through the Magellan straits from the east coast of the US or Europe back in the day. If you were headed to the 1848 California gold rush from New York, you might take several days to rest here.

      It's got a funky vibe. Most walls and entire buildings are covered in beautiful murals in our neighborhood, Cerro Allegre, one of the many hilltops. There are a lot more tourists here than I expected, mostly Chilean. And we're hearing English for about the first time in Chile. Foreign tourists tend to do a day or 2 in Santiago and then beat it to Patagonia.

      There's lots of Jazz playing in cafes and houses as we walk around. If I had to describe it, I'd say it's a hodgepodge of a Rio favela meets New Orleans in 1950s San Francisco. There are several ascensores, or antique funiculars that cost 100 pesos (a dime) to scoot to the top of a hill. Some are over 100 years old.

      We were tempted to skip it altogether but I'm glad we didn't. In 2019 there were major riots and protests against the government in Chile. Santiago and Valparaiso experienced a lot of vandalism and crime. Then came Covid. Valpo especially became graffiti tagged and crime ridden.

      Tourists are just now starting to come back. Chileans on Reddit were almost universally saying to avoid it. Our hotel host in Santa Cruz told us we'd get robbed. But our friends in Santiago, Sebastian and Teresa had just returned from a weekend there and had a great time. We are staying at their recommended hotel, which has a locked parking spot. Granted, it's an unpaved ledge carved into a hill, but it's secure with cameras.

      There's not a lot to do other than to walk around enjoying the street art, grabbing a coffee, or enjoying the views at a rooftop restaurant. Two nights is plenty. But this area is totally safe and we've enjoyed it.

      We head home tomorrow. It's been 9 weeks for me and 5 for Deanne. There weren't any real lowlights to the trip and we both agree that Iguazu Falls and Buenos Aires were the trip highlights.

      More photos and videos are here.
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/FKnVhqQxMzknX2WCA
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    • Las Cruces, Chile

      23.–25. jan., Chile ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      There's a ton of beach towns in Chile, given it's long coastline. We arbitrarily chose Las Cruces. It's small and we found a condo near the beach with a 4th floor view. It wasn't that great of a place, but the views were amazing and there was a lot of security.

      Chilean's don't mess around with that. Everything is locked up tight and hidden behind walls. What may look like a warehouse district could be hiding a Shangri La behind those ugly walls. We had a locked parking lot with 24 hour guards and other guards walking the grounds 24 hours a day. I haven't felt unsafe on this trip once.

      We had 2 nice days at the beach, our last ones of the trip. We didn't see any other foreigners here. It's all Chilenos having a vacation at the beach. When we went to a small verderia, or vegetable stand, a young girl working there just started at me open mouthed. I said you don't see too many foreigners here, do you? And she just shook her head no. I guess I'm pretty tall for them.

      Next stop, Valparaiso., the 2nd largest city in Chile.

      https://photos.app.goo.gl/bq1miXGPD2Ks2CdR8
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    • Wine Country, Chilean Style

      21.–23. jan., Chile ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      We rented a car in Santiago so we could see wine country. Santa Cruz is a couple hours south of Santiago and is one of the more famous wine regions in a country full of wine regions. On the way out of town, we toured the Viña Aquitania winery. It's a small organic winery. The tour guide was really good and the wine was even better.

      Santa Cruz itself is not much to look at. But it's a fertile valley and there's wineries everywhere in the region. We stayed at a nice place in town at a private courtyard with a grape arbor and fantastic breakfasts.

      Our friend Teresa from Santiago recommended many places for us to visit. Also, our friend Louie had been to one in the area and we went to it (Clos Apalta) since it was recommended by both. It's a high-end winery that has won many awards over the years. It was a private, unscheduled tour.

      The owners must have spent millions developing the winery. It's built into a granite hill and uses gravity to move the wine down through multiple levels. The most amazing part was the owner's private cellar, which is deep in the granite hill. It looks like the private lair of a James Bond villain. Wines in this region are mostly reds, particularly Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon.

      The next day we did just a tasting at a nearby winery called Laura Hartwig. All the tastings were great except one that I knew I might not like. Orange wines are kind of a thing in Europe now. It's a white grape and the skins are left on during the fermentation. It's different than a rose and it's a little astringent. That's about the only one I didn't really care for.

      On our last day we went to a recommended museum in town. Wow! What a surprise. It's a world class museum and probably one of the best in Chile. Apparently there is a really rich arms dealer from Santa Cruz who spent a lot of his money developing this museum. It covers prehistory all the way through modern Chilean history.

      I've been to many museums in Peru that highlighted that region's pre-columbian civilizations. But this museum had an amazing collection of pottery and artifacts from each of those cultures in one building.

      I'd heard a little bit about the Pacific War when I was in Bolivia years ago. Basically, Chile fought against Bolivia and Peru in the 1880's and won the war of the Pacific and that's how they got the top 20% of their land. Bolivia used to have a port to the sea and lost it during that war. Bolivia and Paraguay are now the only landlocked countries in South America.

      Afterwards, we drove about 2 1/2 hours northwest of Santa Cruz to stay in a village on the Pacific coast. We have about 4 more days on this trip and after 2 more beach days, we'll go to Valparaiso for our last stop.

      More photos and videos are here.

      https://photos.app.goo.gl/TKo4PiicFeuGGYBK7
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    • Back to Santiago

      17.–19. jan., Chile ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      I booked an apartment in Barrio Brasil again since I liked it so much the first time. A new, small apartment with a pool cost $54/ night. It's like the east side of Madison a bit, what with the lefty vibe. There are a lot of Universities in the area.

      We spent one full day sightseeing including 2 museums. And we had a great meal in the lovely Lastarria neighborhood. It was so flavorful! Argentina and especially Uruguay lack flavor in their foods. Chile can also, but we found a restaurant that
      spiced up some tuna and steak.

      We went for drinks on Friday at happy hour and found a lively place with Karaoke. No, we did not partake.

      On Saturday afternoon, we went for a walk at 7pm and stumbled on a huge Carnival parade. What luck. We just followed the music and saw about 10 groups dance past us.

      On Sunday, we went to some friends house for lunch. Sebastian and Teresa are from Santiago and lived in Madison for a year working on a journalism project with the UW. We had them over for a BBQ on the lake once. Lunch was amazing and it was great to catch up on things.

      Santiago has gotten a bit dodgy lately, so we have avoided some neighborhoods. We've had a great time just wondering around after taking buses or the subway. Lunch today was in Barrio Italia, a restaurant and bar district. That was after seeing the sights downtown, including a bizarre find: strip club coffee shops! Deanne wouldn't let me go in.

      We're in the homestretch now. There's about a week left on this trip. I'm renting a car so we have some flexibility and we'll hit some of the famous wineries Chile is known for.

      My photos and videos are here.
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHS8WTcc5FbGf6KN7
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    • Uruguay giving us the fingers
      The bus was comfy"Los dedos" statue. The fingers is a classic selfie spot here.One of the few older buildings in townMarijuana is legal here but you rarely see it or smell it.Why everyone is hereIt's surprisingly still a working fishing port

      Punta del Este, Uruguay

      15.–17. jan., Uruguay ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

      It's a beach town, and the biggest, most popular one in the country. We're not that into touristy beach towns, but Punta del Este has an international airport and this saves us from backtracking to Montevideo or Buenos Aires to get to Chile, our next destination.

      That being said, our 2 days here were pretty nice. The city is on a peninsula with a wind swept beach on one side (playa brava) and calmer playa on the bay side. Both beaches are miles long and have soft sand. No wonder it's so popular. It seems like everyone from Montevideo is here with their family and half of Buenos Aires to boot.

      We've been to a beach for 10 days in a row now, which is a lot for us. We finally found some great seafood though That was oddly hard to find in Montevideo and Colonia. It's time for something different and I'm looking forward to getting back to Santiago.

      Uruguay has been a totally safe, but slightly boring country. Maybe it's because I'm 2 months into this trip? Other than beaches, there's not much for a tourist here. I can't complain since it is by far the safest Latin American country. Life seems pretty good here and that doesn't always translate to a tourist hotspot.

      More photos and videos are here.
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnQN6EdQcFSFrSfq6
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    • Palacio Salvo, an art deco masterpiece
      Teatro SolisTeatro Solis, The Opera HousePocitos BeachAt the Carnival museum. Carnival is a big deal hereAt the Carnival museumNighttime at Pocitos beachPalacio Taranco, The decorative Arts MuseumAt the Decorative Arts MuseumI spotted an original Sorolla at the decorative Arts Museum. He's a pretty famous Spanish painterThe 1972 plane crash museum. See The Society of the Snow!Three rows of your yerba mate for sale at a tiny grocery store

      Montevideo, Uruguay

      9.–15. jan., Uruguay ⋅ 🌬 79 °F

      We can't quite wrap our heads around this city. It's big, but seems small. After a day here, we realized that half the population has left for vacation somewhere else. It's like Italy in August. Everyone takes a holiday at the same time. If you live in a city with great beaches, where do you go for vacation? To other beach towns apparently.

      We have a nice apartment 4 blocks from the largest beach, Pocitos. It's a mile long arc of a beach similar to Copacabana in Rio. But the comparison ends there. There are no beach restaurants or bars. The street on the beach is all high rise condos and we find it so odd that there are car dealerships and paint stores instead of restaurants and cafes.

      We walked through the old town during the day on Sunday and it was post-apocolyptic. Streets were empty and trash was blowing everywhere around graffiti stained buildings. Lots of homeless people about. But if we did that 2 months later, I'm sure our experience would be different.

      Uruguay makes their own wines and we're sampling them. For reds, the Tannat is king. The grape is originally from SW France near Toulouse and it seems to thrive here. It's great with steaks, which we're eating every other day. Why not? When in Rome. We haven't found a great white wine yet.

      This is probably the spendiest country in Latin America with the best economy, but it's still much cheaper than the US. And to our surprise, there is an 18% refund on restaurant bills if you pay with a foreign credit card. So after a standard 10% tip, a steak meal for 2 with a bottle of wine is $50-$60 and an apartment near the beach is about $75. Steaks are so big, we split them and are still full.

      So far, it's been beach time in the morning and then sightseeing in the afternoon. There are several museums. We stumbled onto a Gaucho museum at a former cathedral-like bank. Banco Republico is the largest bank here and they turned their old colossal bank building into a museum. The building itself is the museum because it looks like Grand Central station with marble everywhere.

      Our Pocitos barrio is on the upscale and trendy side but with so many people gone and half the businesses closed, it just has a strange vibe. We feel totally safe though.

      We went back downtown for museums on a Monday and it was livelier. The 1972 Museum was fascinating. It has artifacts and displays on the 1972 Uruguayan rugby team plane crash in the Andes that inspired the movie and book "Alive" and the recent retelling on Netflix's "Society of the Snow." It was nominated for the best foreign film Oscar last year. I highly recommend it.

      The historic center is a strange hodgepodge of old and newer, ugly architecture. There are a lot of art Deco buildings that are quite beautiful, but for every one of those there's about 10 ugly or abandoned buildings covered in scribbled graffiti nearby. I haven't seen any graffiti that I would call art. The guidebook said the centro historico is used in films as a stand-in for old Havana, but I can't see it.

      In general, there's just not a lot to do here for a tourist except beach time. We walked by the Montevideo selfie spot sign near the beach. There were busloads of tourists stopping to stand in line to take photos. Deanne read that that is one of the biggest tourist hot spots in the city. Oh man, I think I'm a spoiled traveler if that's someone's highlight. It's freezing back home so I'm not complaining! But, we are missing Buenos Aires with its huge leafy parks, it's range of restaurants, etc

      More photos and videos are here.

      https://photos.app.goo.gl/j8ZtTeVj6Jw3JQM67
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    • Colonia, Uruguay

      6.–8. jan., Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      Colonia, Uruguay is where the ferry from Buenos Aires stops. Most passengers then get on buses to shuttle 2 1/2 hours away Montevideo. But we decided to spend 3 nights here.

      It was a Portuguese colony, and then the Spanish kicked them back to Brasil. Eventually, the state of Uruguay was formed as a buffer between the 2 countries. That seems to have worked because Argentina and Brazil, the two largest countries in South America have not had a war against each other.

      The central historic part of town is quaint and has several small museums that describe the Portuguese and Spanish colonial past. We're staying about a mile away in an apartment near a beach on the Rio del Plata. It's a family style beach and lots of locals come out at about 5:00 to get some sun and play in the river. The sun sets at about 8 pm now.

      Things are more expensive here than Argentina, but not a whole lot more. The food is pretty much the same (steaks, seafood, and Milanesas), although now we're seeing Uruguayan wines on the menu. Uruguay claims to have created the Tango and Chimichurri sauce, which Argentina lays claim to. I'll let them fight over that.

      While many people would think three nights in Colonia is too much, we kind of liked to leisurely walk around town and hang out at the beach.

      Next stop, Montevideo, the capital and largest city in Uruguay.

      More photos and videos are here.
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/yEU3pcTDkungqR7V6
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    • In the Boca neighborhood
      Deanne's first "real" Milanesa. It's a fancy pork tenderloin or schnitzel.In Boca with SophiaHunger hurtsLoca for BocaThe Boca Juniors stadiumAt the Fabrica Teatro Colon museumA stage set that shows the enlargement of a Hieronymous Bosch paintingWith Sophia in San TelmoWe went to the racetrack one afternoonDeanne lost 3,000 at the track! But that's only $3 US dollars.Meeting Michelle for dinner....on Calle EcuadorOld friends and new

      Buenos Aires, part 3

      2.–6. jan., Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

      We moved to a different apartment in another part of town called Almagro. We wanted to see a different slice of life than the trendy Recoleta or Palermo neighborhoods. It's much quieter and a little more gritty but still totally safe.

      We met up with a couple friends. Sophia is the daughter of our friend Keith and she lives in Milwaukee. Her mother is Argentinian and she was visiting her grandparents here. We went to the Boca neighborhood, home of the famous Boca Junior's football club (and Diego Maradona, their Futbol god) During the day a lot of tourists go to take tours and watch tango dancers and look at the colorfully painted buildings. At night, it's not so safe.

      We walked around and took our photos and then went to a museum where they make and store the stage sets and costumes for the Teatro Colon Opera House. We had steaks for lunch in the San Telmo district.

      At this point I've been here almost 3 weeks and Deanne has had more than a week in Buenos Aires. The last few days have been just us enjoying walking around and having a good meal or two here and there. It's been amazing.

      We also looked up an old friend that we were quarantined with during covid in Vilcabamba Ecuador for 3 months. Michelle is from San Diego and had been living here for a couple of years. We met at a restaurant and caught up on things. My blog posts on that from 2020 are here. We were so lucky to have our quarantine family at Izhcayluma.

      https://findpenguins.com/0x7ax2pvwii8d/footprin…

      Now we're off to Uruguay! It's just across the Rio Plata. Our ferry will drop us in Colonia and although it's small, we'll spend 3 nights there.

      More photos and videos are here.

      https://photos.app.goo.gl/ur5PexGwboVYkBJ3A
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    • Garganta del Diablo, the devil's throatA view from circuito inferiorA capuchin monkey?Upon further review, the Bears still suck at Iguazu Falls.A hospital for tourists? HmmmmmOur new Dutch friends, Brian and Margaret AnnA parillada for 2? It fed 4 of us.We've been to a few of these

      Iguazu Falls, Argentina

      31. dec.–2. jan. 2025, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

      Wow. I've been here before, almost 15 years ago. But these falls will never fail to impress. They're one of the largest waterfalls in the world. The videos and pictures best describe it.

      There's not much else to do in Puerto Iguazu except see the falls or go to a restaurant or bar. We opted for a 2 night/ one day trip with a flight on low- cost carrier Fly Bondi.

      It was hot, but we got an early start and after 10 miles of hiking for the day, we were done in 6 or so hours. On the bus back to town, we met a Dutch couple our age traveling long term and made fast friends. We had drinks and met later for dinner. It was our first Parillada, a meat feast. Supposedly it was for 2 people but it fed all four of us.

      I'm waiting for our flight back to Buenos Aires now. We'll spend 4 more nights there before taking a ferry to Uruguay.

      More photos and videos are here.

      https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qz3z6JkGoUgHRNJ87
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