Cambodia

January 2017
A 13-day adventure by Holly Read more
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  • Day 11

    Follow the Leader Leader!

    January 19, 2017 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    19/01/17

    Koh Ta Kiev (Cambodia)

    We awake for the first time on our little island and it's amazing. We have a panoramic 'window' opening (no window just air!) with just bright blue sea outside. It's amazing.

    Have a hearty breakfast but there is no mushroom left on the island. There is no power anywhere on the island nor running water. Everything if it's not caught here is brought in by boat. It's pretty cool for a limited time ha.

    We decide to go to the fishing village on the other side of the island. There is a map painted on a piece of tree trunk which we try to remember. We also ask for directions from some treehouse staff who have never been there.

    We set off following our friend Sullivan (the dog).... We walk along the abandoned road the Chinese have dug. A Chinese firm has a lease on the island for 99 years, but the recession hit when they started work so the only thing they achieved was reduce level digging. This has now been covered in undergrowth and new trees etc. Of course we're english so we end up walking in the mid day heat but I don't think this dog is nuts. We keep following Sully but end up at a mango farm. Turns out we missed a turning and went to the furthest possible point on the island ffs. Who would've thought following a dog wouldn't work!!!?

    So we head home after a couple of hours burning with our friend and go and meet pakora and Tal for a mooch to elephant rock.

    More effort required as we walk along the coast for an hour and then swim over.

    As we're swimming some kayakers tell us the tide is out round there so not to jump in! Bloody hell! So it's a big swim back carefully avoiding coral as it contains some of the biggest sea urchins we've ever seen!

    We have to guide pakora back in the end as she has no snorkel only a mask, and the sea scape changed that often you could be in the deep one minute and about to beach on an urchins spikes the next!! It was a lot of effort but luckily she was behind me at one point as a haviana floated off and I didn't notice. Noblet then took the lead but kept getting distracted by the fact he could tell the time under water with his new watch!!!! This lead to him going off course by 180 degrees!! What a doughnut!!! Eventually he managed to stay on track and pakora arrived safe and well haha!!

    Spoke to a drunk French captain in the bar who agreed to take us out fishing on his boat tomorrow... See how this goes!!!

    We made our way back to the treehouse for some below par tapas, and then all got stuck listening to some average singer/guitarist doing a 'set'. You know that awkward kind of looking at you whilst singing thing!

    Anyway we had some more beers and called it a night excited for fishing tomorrow!!

    man: Pakora - surviving without a snorkel

    Donkey: Noblet for times against humanity
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  • Day 12

    Under the Sea!!

    January 20, 2017 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    20/01/16

    koh ta Kiev (Cambodia)

    We're still on our little island of paradise.

    This morning we use our time to plan out for Vietnam with the bible (lonely planet). Once we're suitably bored of this it's into the bright blue clear water (3m away from our tree house). The only problem with paradise is that everything wants to eat/ injure you! So even in the sea we are aware of the many massive sea urchins protecting the rocks! Playtime is tentative at best! Flying fish jump past us and we watch 6 inch crabs scuttling on the rocks, attempting not to get wiped out by the waves!

    We're due to go out fishing this afternoon on our DIY excursion. We sorted this by speaking to the alcoholic/ high as a kite French 'boat captain' and agreeing to pay him $6 each to go out for several hours (compare this to the $20 it should cost and we're on a winner right? What could go wrong?)

    We arrive at the bar where we met this boat captain and enquire as to his wareabouts. He's still asleep.... The bloody French!?!? Honestly.

    Whilst he's getting himself and the boat sorted we down some pink coladas... Piña colada with Malibu and pink stuff and get beers in for El
    Capitano.

    Load the boat (sack of beers) for our team outing and continue to get on it. Motor out off the shore, drop the anchor. Tiere shows us how to cast a line and we're off! Uuuu this is so exciting.... For five minutes. We quickly learn this sport is a good excuse to drink, and attempt to catch tea.... But not really a sport at all.

    On the other hand, the pissed captain finds two fish within two minutes so we are certainly lacking skill! One of the ones he pulls up comes up with a piece of coral the size of a football as the fish was hooked and got wedged in the coral so they came up together.

    So there are fish to be had and it's back to concentrating. Within 5 minutes we have caught coral and lost weights on two rods!! Hmm... El capitano perseveres and we decide to move so we can see elephant rock (which we missed yesterday) and watch the sunset... Easier said than done and the anchor has got caught on some rocks, so raj has to dive in and kick it loose, he does this fully clothed even leaving his crocs on as he jumps into the sea!

    We move position and drop our rods again!

    Ding dong... NOBLET HAS CAUGHT ONE.... And it's massive. Well, massively poisonous, and approximately 3inches long, he's in the lead.

    Then Pakora comes a knocking, 'Tal, don't move' he says 'what?' and starts moving.... pakoras hook went straight in his foot 😂. Wonder who donkey will go to here?

    And then ten minutes later pakora some how gets her hook stuck in her thigh!!!! Wtf how do you even do that 😂😂... Twice!

    We watch the sunset with our rods dropped, but as we turn around towards elephant rock (which actually looks like an elephant) we see a huge front coming in.

    El capitano seems fine though stating 'we watch the sunset and then we go home fast'. So we finish the sunset, casually wind our rods in (Tal catches a sea big which he thought was his bait lol) and I go to the toilet (quick dip). Only once I finish does he start to get a bit twitchy and it's full steam ahead! By now the storm is fast approaching. The other boats have only just seen the front as they were so close to the island and are hot on our heals following our route through the coral which we now couldn't see due to the dark clouds.... We were in the hands of a pastise infused captain around shed loads of coral in shallow water... Great.

    The storm picks up, as do the waves and we're getting soaked and blown around. The captain is worried and strains his eyes to see Raj who is attempting to avoid the coral. 10 long minutes later and we're heading into shore at last... We're lucky we're at the north West side of the island pretty close to where we were. When we got to the shore there was the bar tender waiting for us and the urgency of the situation was realised with the statement 'get off the boat quick, we need to tie this boat down NOW!'

    We did as we were told and ran to shelter in the bar. Only one thing for it... Get the beers in until the storm passes!

    An hour later the captain and bar guy come back informing us the boat was ok at last. We learnt the next day that the other boats heading to the south of the island were forced to abandon ship 500m down from us. Crikey.

    To summarise the fishing competition:

    First place Pakora with 2 big catches
    Second place Noblet 3" fish
    Third place Tal for his small worm
    Last Holly with absolutely nothing. Brilliant

    Man: the captain for getting us home
    Donkey: Thirsty Pakora for hooking herself and Tal on a fishing hook.
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  • Day 13

    Goodbye my lover!

    January 21, 2017 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    21/01/16

    Koh Ta Kiev (Cambodia) to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon - Vietnam)

    Our last day on 'The Island' and we're all quite excited to leave.

    The storm last night leaked through elements of our open air living very wet. It has also made the whole area of jungle very humid (I
    thought it might clear the air much to my disappointment). This has lead to our tree house being awash with things that want to bite you! 7 bites in an hour Ahh!

    We awake early and meet Pakora and Tal for breakfast.... We arranged to meet at 8.30 and if their alarm clock didn't go off I was to go down to theirs at 8.45. They didn't show so started to jog down long beach when they arrived with their rucksacks which co incidentally match ours exactly!

    We have breakfast and wave goodbye to the island as we head for mainland in the boat going for its daily market shop!

    We are all very excited to have running water, toilets, electricity and most importantly WIFI again!!

    The trip only takes around 40 minutes and the departing view is super stunning with the dense jungle and bright blue sea a pleasing combination (who said blue and a green should never be seen?!)

    The boat team is all under the age of 20 and they do well with the whole operation (smoother than last nights drama).

    We say our goodbyes to Thirsty Pakora and Tal and obviously round this off with #CWTOBD #MayDay

    Now for the hard part. We have to get to Vietnam. We're not sure about Visas and we're not Sure about where we can cross the border... So we do the obvious thing and book a bus... With no idea GOD STILL LOVES A GAMBLER!

    This is the moment where during the drunk conversation with Karvey I should have paid more attention and not been so easily swayed (someone was Downing a pint or something)
    Something about a border crossing... Then something more fun happened and I forgot to pay attention to what she was saying.... And the last thing I remember is something about 'good luck when you're walking through no mans land and you think I should've listened to Karvey'

    Fuck.... We should've listened to Karvey. I'm racking my brains, I remember exactly where we're both sat in the clubhouse.... But I can't remember what she said!!! Damn it.

    So we head for the border and hope for the best.

    As we're driving we reflect on Cambodia as a country and we are really so impressed with the resilience of the people. Only 40 years ago the world allowed over 2 million people to be slaughtered by their own government. One quarter of the population. Today, it was amazing to look at anyone over 45 years old, and to think of the horrors they have witnessed and which will probably still haunt them. PTSD must be massive and probably undiagnosed with very little help for people. On the upside, their religion (95% Buddhist) seems to have survived here, although perhaps not as obviously as in other countries we have been to. They have had a massive baby boom, where 70% of the country are under 40. This means there are young people creating businesses everywhere and opportunities for themselves. Construction here seems to be moving at a phnom phenianal rate! (Pleased with this one). The Chinese are investing it's got hope. I just really wish that this newly re-booted economy will keep its eyes aware and learn from the mistakes of other countries in terms of de-fore station, protection of sea beds (dredging operations already in place with 200m nets) save their Irrawaddy Dolphins and more. If they play their Exotourism right.... Surely they can do well using their unique assets as opposed to becoming another Thailand!

    We ❤️ Cambodia!
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