Sengulattu Malai

Twelve years ago, we visited India. For twelve years Ken said he loves Indians, but hated India and had no desire to return. Based on flights departing Mauritius, visa restrictions, and seasonal weather, I suggested India was the best choice for our next destination. He reluctantly agreed with the caveat that he would only visit for ten days.

I don’t know what’s changed. It could be twelve years. Maybe we are in a different region (the south vs. the north). Or we’re staying in nicer places. Or perhaps his perspective on life and travel have evolved. But we landed in Mumbai (his previous “worst place ever”) and within one hour he looked with a devious grin and announced “What was I thinking, this place is great! Why are we only staying ten days?” I nearly strangled him.

We stayed one night in Mumbai (ate the spiciest food ever and all got stomach pains; Ken vomited) and then took a quick flight south to Kochi (Kerala). Our first day was spent exploring via tuk tuk (rickshaw) to all the tourist sites – a mix of colonial era churches, temples, and a Jewish synagogue; Chinese fishing nets; local laundry site; and perfumery. Ken ventured across town via ferry boat for a sim card – not an easy task given he doesn’t speak the local language and no one speaks English. For Kelvis’ 19th birthday he wanted beef, fries, and Oreo milkshakes!

For the next two days we stayed on a houseboat in the Alleppey backwaters (a huge network of lakes and channels with thousands of cruise boats). The first night we shared the boat with a newlywed couple from Bangalore and we had a wonderful evening with our new friends. At one point off in the distance we saw a small motorboat and realized he was selling ice cream. We asked Kelvis to get his attention so we could buy ice cream. Kelvis, excited by the idea of an ice cream boat, proceeded to scream “Ey Ey Ey” at the top of his lungs and wave his arms in a crazy, frantic manner. The ice cream boat sped over SO quickly, we made fun of Kelvis all evening for his wild attention-grabbing antics (very effective indeed).

The second night we switched to a bigger, double-decker boat (with 3 new couples – unfortunately for Everett, he was the only kid). The upper level contained our two bedrooms and the dining hall. Unfortunately, we realized Ken was slightly taller than the average Indian, so he had to walk hunched over the entire ride.

The people in Kerala have been some of the nicest we have encountered on the trip – really, genuinely friendly. Everett is seriously an anomaly-celebrity here because of his dreadlock hair. He gets 10-15 compliments per day and people are constantly asking to take pictures with him.

Then we spent six hours driving on the windiest road we have ever been on. It was 160 km (100 miles) of switch-backs, climbing up a rolling mountainside to the town of Munnar. The drive was beautiful – rubber trees, spice trees, waterfall, coffee and tea plantations. To make the time pass faster we played the “alphabet sign game” so many times that by the end of the drive we were all car sick and going nutty. (Shout out to Grandpa Roy who used to play this when Ken was growing up. Ken shared the story of when Roy went as far as to even ask strangers in other cars for help on the hard letters. Fortunately Ken did follow this particular aspect of the tradition)

We made very last-minute hotel reservations and everything was sold out (duh, it is Christmas!!!). In our ignorance, we wrongly assumed this was a Hindu country so maybe Christmas wouldn’t be a big deal? WRONG! There are many Christians here and Munnar is a major domestic tourist destination. So… we slept in two TENTS in the middle of nowhere-ville an hour from Munnar, with no restaurant onsite, construction noise and pounding club music all evening, terrible smog, and no toilet paper.

Today everything turned around. Everett has good WIFI, Kelvis recovered from his stomach ailments, we are enjoying the cool mountain temperatures, and we ventured into Munnar via tuk tuk. Turns out our tents are right in the middle of beautiful tea plantations (the smog cleared) and we leaned into the Christmas chaos while walking around downtown Munnar. The boys got milkshakes and Ken and I enjoyed really good thali (sampler platter of veg dishes) for $1 each. In town I purchased four rolls of toilet paper so no one is without and now everyone is happy.

Merry Christmas and belated Happy Hanukkah, we love and miss you all! I hope you enjoy this poem I found to share with you.

“When you set out on your journey to Ithaca,
Pray that the road is long,
Full of adventure, full of knowledge.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
The angry Poseidon – do not fear them:
You will never find such as these on your path
If your thoughts remain lofty, if a fine
Emotion touches your spirit and your body.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
The fierce Poseidon you will never encounter,
If you do not carry them within your soul,
If your heart does not set them up before you.

Pray that the road is long.
That the summer mornings are many, when,
With such pleasure, with such joy
You will enter ports seen for the first time;
Stop at Phoenician markets,
And purchase fine merchandise,
Mother-of-pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
And sensual perfumes of all kinds,
As many sensual perfumes as you can;
Visit Egyptian cities,
To learn and learn from scholars.

Always keep Ithaca in your mind.
To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for many years;
And to anchor at the island when you are old,
Rich with all you have gained on the way,
Not expecting that Ithaca will offer you riches.
Without her you would have never set out on the road.
She has nothing more to give you.

And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience,
You must already have understood what Ithacas mean.”

Constantine Cavafy (1863-1933)
Translated by Rae DalvenRead more