Italy
Garbatella

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    • Day 9

      Testaccio market

      April 28, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      I got out fairly early and headed towards the Testaccio market. I walked through and entirely new part of the neighborhood. Much more local.

      It was a relatively short walk to the market. I found the sandwich place right away. It didn't appear open, so I walked around. So much good food! I walked by the sandwich place and saw a tour group and figured it was open. Got my Italian Veal and a bottle of wine. The tour was in English, so I eavesdrop a bit. They were getting a group picture of and I offered to take it. They were from Hinsdale! We chatted for a while and I asked the guide who she worked for. It was Katie Parla! I read her blog prior to coming here.

      From there I meandered around and stopped at a wine and food shop for gifts. I may keep them all for myself :) 😀. I bought limoncello for Kristen and truffle balsamic vinegar. Also some "polvere di leccino" that I have no idea what it is! I looked for fried olives, but couldn't find any, so I left.

      I went back to my room to drop off all the food. Saw the Hinsdale people on the bridge. Surprised the family here. I guess they're not used to people coming back so early in the day. Dropped off the food and headed for Campo di Fiori. I wanted the purple pashmina I saw before. Ended up with a two-tone one from. India. It's pretty.

      I still had half an hour before my covid test window, so I sat down for some lunch. It was right off the Campo, so I didn't expect much. The 1/2 liter of wine was good. The salad was not. I think they did dress it and didn't give me oil and vinegar. Oh well... I watched the street theater of trucks, vans, limos, kids, tourists, etc. After I finished my wine it was time for...the covid test...

      It turns out I picked up the wrong form. So I filled out the correct one and paid my 15€ for the test. The doctor was exactly like the one in Milan. Older, and very nice. The test was uncomfortable and the results available in 10 minutes. I got a gelato while I waited. Negative--of course. I stopped at Carrefour on the way home for gifts.

      Now I'm resting on the balcony. Checked in for tomorrow's flights and have started packing. I think I can keep the luggage under 50 lbs.!
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    • Day 37

      Cimitero Acattolico, Rome

      October 5, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      We had a bit of a slower start today, thanks to having such a great afternoon/evening with Tony and Deb. We had not realised we would cross paths again on this trip so it was fabulous to catch up again and have a touch of home. Needless to say, lunch turned into dinner and lots of Italian wine. Brad and I aren't really sure how we even made it home.

      So after a bit of a lie in, we decided to master the bus system here in Rome and make our way to the The Cimitero Acattolico, the Non-Catholic Cemetery. It is often referred to as the Cimitero dei protestanti, Protestant Cemetery, or Cimitero degli Inglesi, Englishmen's Cemetery. It is the final resting place of non-Catholics including but not exclusive to Protestants or British people.

      The earliest known burial is that of a University of Oxford student named Langton in 1738. The English poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley are buried there. Keat’s tombstone does not name him as per his wishes. Instead it reads “Here lies one whose name is writ in water”.

      The cemetery is also the location of the original Angel of Grief or the Weeping Angel. It is an 1894 sculpture by William Wetmore Story for the grave of his wife Emelyn Story. Its full title bestowed by the creator was The Angel of Grief Weeping Over the Dismantled Altar of Life. This was Story's last major work prior to his death, a year after his wife.

      There is such a feeling of tranquility, beauty and freedom there. All of the graves are adorned with tombstones, some elaborate, some very simple, and they are all covered with bushes, vines and flowers. Definitely not like our staid cemeteries at home with all their rules and regulations. It was a lovely place to wander or to just sit and enjoy the fresh air and peacefulness.

      The cemetery is adjacent to the Pyramid of Cestius, a small-scale Egyptian-style pyramid built between 18 and 12BC. It is the monumental tomb of Caius Cestius, a Roman magistrate and member of a college of priests. It was later incorporated into the section of the Aurelian Walls that borders the cemetery. It was a very random sight to see amongst the usual Roman buildings and statues and tombstones.

      While getting here and back again wasn't that easy I am glad we got to see it and experience the serenity away from the hustle and bustle of Rome.
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