Italy
Giardino Del Museo Archeologico

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    • Day 27

      Sisters, Sickbeds, and Strepsils

      August 6, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      I awake with a start to the noise of church bells in a dark room. I can just make out the image of an angel on the wall across from me. I stumble over to the shutters and open them to cast some light on my small room. The painting of the Angel Gabrielle hangs on the wall above a small desk and a cross hangs above my bed. Unfortunately neither seem to have done me much good as on the journey yesterday I came down with a cold, and my back took a dislike to the supposedly comfier Austrian train seats and so this morning I find myself hobbling about like Igor out of Frankenstein, unable to straighten up and with a hefty cough to boot.

      My home for the next few nights is with the Suore Oblate dell’Assunzione (the Oblate Sisters of the Assumption) who run a holiday home in central Florence. Designed to be a crossroads for humanity and provide hospitality to pilgrims, tourists, and ironically, according to their website, the sick. The accommodation is simple but welcoming and a peaceful sanctuary from the hordes of tourists outside which I’m incredibly grateful for at the moment. My plans to go and explore Florence are written off and instead all I see of the city is the pharmacy and a supermarket. While I’m miffed to be unable to explore, out of every where it could have gone wrong, I’m lucky it’s here.

      The sisters are mainly from African countries, switching between Italian, English, and French. They’re friendly, kind, and welcoming and it’s the perfect place to recuperate for a few days. One of the sisters, Suor Jeanne, kindly gives me a hot water bottle and a kettle so I can hopefully ease my back out. She tells me she’s from Congo and as I’m about to ask how to say thank you in her language, she tells me she speaks Swahili and so I’m able to break out the few rusty phrases I know to thank her. Armed with a hot water bottle I hobble back to my room and spend most of the next couple of days napping and coughing and rewatching one of my favourite series which just happens to be in Italian.
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    • Day 1

      Reunited!

      September 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      I have no idea what order these photos will post, but the first thing that happened in Florence was the best -- meeting up with my best gal pal Martha!! We all dropped our bags off at the apartment we're renting, and headed straight for the Duomo. The architecture is amazing! We visited the duomo museum first and saw the brass doors pictured here, among other things, then went to the church itself. The painted ceiling is in the dome, and the 24-hour clock is in the back of the church. Fascinating! We look forward to going to Mass there on Sunday.

      Dinner was at a trattoria across the street from our apartment, where they were offering several dishes featuring fresh porcini mushrooms. John and I had risotto with porcinis, and it was excellent. Martha had gnudi -- imagine naked ravioli, the stuffing without the pasta, and it's pronounced just like you'd think. Some very nice red wines, creamy tiramisu for dessert, and now a good night's sleep. Tomorrow we'll visit the Uffizi.
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    • Day 2

      Florence Day 2

      September 29, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      So many beautiful sights today! After a traditional Italian breakfast of cappuccino and a pastry, we walked to the Basilica of Santa Croce. Lots of notable people are interred there -- Machiavelli, Michelangelo, Marconi (inventor of the radio), and John's personal favorite, composer Rossini. From there we went to the Arno River and window shopped the 50 jewelry stores on the Ponte Vecchio. Wow, lots of bling!! Our next stop was the Palazzo Pitti, which was home to the de Medicis, and the adjacent Boboli Gardens.

      After lunch we visited the Uffizi. So many breathtaking things to see there. This Michelangelo painting (the round one) was one of my favorites, but Correggio's "The Virgin in Adoration of the Child" touched my heart and brought tears to my eyes.

      I don't know how many flights of stairs we climbed today, but there were a lot of them! We stopped at a little trattoria for pizza for lunch (the line at the sandwich shop pictured here was halfway down the block, so alas no porchetta today). We snacked on gelato on our way back from the Uffizi. Yum!

      Tomorrow we plan to go to see Michelangelo's David at the Accademia, to shop at Mercato Centrale, and hopefully we'll have time for the Galileo Museum or the DaVinci Museum (a nice switch from art and religion).
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    • Day 3

      Good morning, David!

      September 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      We started our day at the Accademia, visiting Michelangelo's David -- so much more breathtaking in person than in photos! The photo of the blue inside of the dome and the following photo are from the Sacristy in the Basilica de San Lorenzo, one of several churches that claim to be the oldest church in Florence. The church was consecrated in 393.

      The big hunk of beef, the rabbit, and the chickens (and chicken heads) were just a few of many offered at Mercato Centrale, which is Florence's version of Seattle's Pike Place Market (without the fish throwing). This kind of place is frustrating when you know you can't take most of the goodies home with you!

      Martha and I did some shopping, and then we went to Mass at the Duomo. Hardest kneelers ever, I am not kidding!! After Mass, in the Piazza del Duomo, we found the annual Carro Matto -- a salute to the arrival of the first bottles of wine for the season. To read more about the "crazy cart," go to https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-events/c…

      We wrapped up the evening with another dinner across the street, including fried fresh porcini (we did some serious damage to the porcini pile from Thursday's report), pappardelle with rabbit, Tuscan beef stew, lamb stew with artichokes, and biscotti with generous pours of Vin Santo. A fine celebration on our last night in Florence. On to Siena tomorrow!
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    • Day 14

      We reach Florence

      September 7, 2015 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Day 14 – In Which we Roar Into Florence

      It is always amazing how much a group improves after riding for several hours every day. Even the saddles that might have been unfamiliar on the first couple of days, don’t seem so bad any more. When this ride was starting there were a couple of riders who had never before tackled this type of adventure and it is not surprising that they had some initial anxiety about how they would cope. For Gonny, this was the first time she had done any serious riding since her spinal surgery and no one would blame her for feeling a little nervous about how well it would stand up under pressure.

      Now that five days of extended riding have been completed all riders are performing well, even in the sometimes unpleasantly hot conditions. Last night was spent in the beautiful country town of Brisighella. It was a treat to savour the cool mountain air blowing in our open bedroom windows. It was also a treat to be able to catch up on the backlog of washing and drying.

      This morning we had to get up early to make sure we were able to catch the train from the Brisighella Station. The train was due to depart at 8.30 am and, if we missed that on, the next one would not come for another 4 hours. Although the ride from the hotel to the station was quite short, it did involve a quite steep climb. It was a good way to prepare the legs for the extended brutal climbs that were to come later that day.

      Fortunately our team is well prepared and all were ready to leave even earlier than I had instructed. We made it to the station with plenty of time to spare and were soon seated in a very comfortable carriage speeding our way through the mountains. This was the most spectacular and beautiful countryside we had seen thus far and the train passed through numerous tunnels along the way.

      About an hour later we were deposited at our appointed starting point for the final day’s ride to Florence. It was still relatively early but the coolness of the early morning was wearing off and the blazing sun was again making its presence felt. By this time we were so sure of our navigation skills that we hardly had to refer to the instructions. About 4 km of uphill riding later we realised that we had completely missed the turnoff and had to backtrack almost back to the start. Take Two.

      We eventually found the right road and were soon into a routine of steady pedaling up the rolling inclines. The notes warned of a brutal section of 14% gradient and I can’t say that I was relishing the thought. No matter which way you say it, 14% is STEEP, really steep. Especially for those of us who are not friends of gravity, like me. On the other hand I was feeling quite well and some part of me was actually looking forward to the challenge. After all, if the entire ride was too easy, people would think they had been robbed.

      When I turned a bend and saw the road rising vertically straight into the stratosphere, I knew that we had reached the steep bit. I clicked down a few gears and attacked it with gusto. The front of the bike lifted and the speed dropped, but it was still climbing. So far so good I thought. At least I had survived the first 10 metres. The next 10 metres were a little tougher. The speed dropped a little more, my heart rate rose a lot more. Lungs started heaving. How do those Tour de France riders do this ? Probably has something to do with the fact that they only weigh about 50 kg.

      I started to tack back and forth across the road in a attempt to cleverly reduce the gradient. Two can play at this game I thought. That clever tactic bought me about another 7 metres of progress. Time to dig deep. Click down to the lowest gear. Bugger, I was already in it. No more gears left. Not much more strength left. The only thing I had left was the pride in wearing the coveted yellow jersey. I tried to imagine those scenes as the Tour heroes approach the summit of the Alpe d”Huez with hundreds of adoring fans running along cheering encouragement. I could almost hear their shouts, but I think it was the blood vessels in my ears about to burst.

      Come on Dennis, you can do this ! Unfortunately I discovered that I couldn’t. I had made it about 400 metres up the climb, but had to come to the decision that it was better to get off than to risk having a simultaneous heart attack, stroke, pulmonary embolism and heebie jeebies. When it was all said and done I was able to rationalise my decision with the knowledge that it was clearly faster to walk than ride. I took a few deep breaths, grabbed the handlebars in one hand and the seat in the other and starting pushing. A hundred metres or so in front of me I noticed that Lionel (Irving, Walter, Claude ?) had also dismounted. I suspect that we were all going through our private purgatories.

      Although it was tough, a little while later we had all made it to the top and were already making light of the challenge. The next few kilometres climbed further, but at a much more realistic gradient. We were even relieved to find a convenient coffee stop a couple of km before the top of the final climb. In some strange way I suspect that we were a little sad that the challenge was about to finish.

      After a coffee and an icecream we had little difficulty reaching the final summit. All we had was about 15 km of mostly downhill to take us home to our final destination of Florence. This was a time to enjoy ourselves. Sweeping around the bends on a beautiful smooth surface, Cycling heaven. Soon we got our first views of the famous city and the even more famous “Duomo”. Each bend took us closer until we entered the outskirts of the city and into the final maelstrom of traffic.

      About 20 minutes later we had finally reached the Hotel Grifone which marked the end of the ride. We locked the bikes for the final time, hugged and congratulated each other. Our first Italy ride had ended without a single accident. We had all got to know each other better and had accumulated a new storehouse of memories to recount in the years ahead. In a few days 5 of us will be regrouping in France to begin our 2015 France rides.

      After dropping the bikes, I transferred to the Hotel Bigallo, which will be my home for the next 3 nights. I knew that it was close to the famous Duomo, but I did not appreciate just how close it was. The hotel is literally only a few metres from the towering church. I also discovered that it was the first hotel that I have had in Italy that charged for its Internet. In spite of the 10 Euro charge I never could get the Internet to work there. I think there is definite irony in that.
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