Museo del Merletto

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6 travelers at this place

  • Day211

    Day 212: Burano & Exploring

    September 14, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Time for a day-trip! The lagoon where Venice is located has more than a hundred islands, some of which are interesting and some of which aren't, but Shandos had heard good things about Burano. Not to be confused of course with Murano, which is a common excursion from Venice. So we bought ourselves some day-passes for the vaporetto (water-buses) and off we went!

    Step one was of course the Italian breakfast standing at a counter, then down to the nearby vaporetto stop where we caught one boat to the northern coastline of Venice. Here we changed and caught a second vaporetto for Burano. Only moderately crowded which was nice, and plenty of people hopped off at Murano.

    Burano was a bit further than we'd realised, and took more than 45 minutes to reach from Murano, but it was definitely worth the wait. Hopped off the boat to find a super-quiet island with beautiful painted houses in vivid colours. Bright blues, yellows, purples and many other colours besides. Nice canals as well, with wider footpaths than you usually get in Venice.

    Plenty of opportunity for photos which we took up, enjoying a break from the hordes of people in Venice. Even the main street was full of empty tourist restaurants. It's only a fairly small island so we wandered around exploring for a couple of hours. Not much in particular to see other than enjoying the atmosphere, but it was definitely nice.

    By the time we made it back to the main street it was 12pm, and clearly a couple of cruise ships or something had arrived because it was now absolute bedlam. Every restaurant was rammed full of people, loads of grey-haired people mindlessly following flags up the street, the works. It was really disheartening to see after it being so peaceful just 90 minutes earlier.

    It was fairly hard to tell the tourist trap restaurants from the proper restaurants, and though they all had good-sounding seafood options with fish direct from the lagoon, it was pretty expensive and we didn't feel particularly up for it. In the end we headed back for the vaporetto dock where we'd seen a fish & chips place. The food wasn't quite as cheap as we'd remembered in the morning, and it was pretty average to be honest. My fish had definitely been cooked quite a while earlier. But oh well. Loads of aggressive pigeons hanging around too, though they made themselves scarce when Schnitzel attacked!

    Back on the vaporetto, we decided to split up for the afternoon. Shandos wanted to check out the Guggenheim gallery on the southern side of Venice, while I was interested to see the Arsenale where Venice's warships were produced. So we hopped off at different stops, and I took Schnitzel with me.

    Unfortunately you can't actually get inside the Arsenale as it's still an active military base, but what I could see from outside looked quite nice. From here I just wandered with Schnitzel, taking whatever turns I felt like and seeing what was down each street. This area of Venice (east of St Mark's) seemed very un-crowded, and some areas I almost had to myself. It was very pleasant after the annoying morning, and after the crowds from yesterday.

    Had to take shelter from rain a couple of times - much more inclement and overcast today after the glorious weather we had yesterday. Not super warm but I'm still wearing shorts; I would've been hot in jeans. Eventually decided to head home and wait for Shandos, so headed back to St Mark's and boarded a ridiculously overcrowded vaporetto heading up the grand canal. After a few stops I managed to shove my way over near the railing so I had a decent view for the last half of the ride which was quite nice.

    As I disembarked Shandos sent me a message saying she was done and asking to meet up! So of course I had a glass of wine in a cafe and waited for her to reach me. We decided we'd head back down to the places I'd been recommended near the Rialto Bridge and visit another one of those for dinner.

    The one we chose was a little back-streets cantina and absolutely packed - no way we could have dinner here, but we managed to snag a bench outside and have some bar snacks. More chichetti (Venetian-style tapas or pintxos) and a few Aperol spritz to wash it down! After dinner I decided I needed one last visit to the gelato place from yesterday, so down we walked, to about halfway between the Rialto bridge and St Mark's. Still just as good, perhaps even better as this time they had mascarpone and caramelised fig flavour!!

    Another very crowded vaporetto back up the grand canal finished our final day in Venice. Off to bed early and tired, but ready to get back on the road tomorrow.
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  • Day42

    Burano, you little beauty

    September 3, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It's Saturday and there are lots of tourists in Venice, although not as packed as I thought it would be - same as Salamanca on a Saturday - people everywhere but you can still get served in shops.

    We decided that today we would go to Burano, a small island about 1 hour 20 minutes by boat. First we had to get tickets for the ferry - the public transport service. I must say that the level of English language support is low, so it can be a test of your perseverance. We bought a 24 hour unlimited travel voucher for €20 each - a good deal. Couldn't find the ferry terminal but a tourist guide for Murano Island helped us get to the right spot.

    The ferry ride alone was worth it, although thunder storms were forecast, we had clear blue skies and plenty of activity to see on the water. As soon as we arrived we knew this place would be special. Mary was aware that Burano was famous for its lace, but we didn't know how attractive the painted houses would be.

    Everywhere you look on the small island there are houses painted in striking colours, reds, greens, blue anything you could imagine - an all in brilliant contrast. The houses are so close to the paths that they but "shower curtains" across the front door so they can leave the doors open for the breeze but not have tourists looking in - nice idea.

    There are plenty of lace shops, cafes and gift shops. Mary has a head cold, but that didn't stop her from shopping - she's a champion. We had lunch - the pasta was great, I had spaghetti Bolognese and Mary had Lasagne - both brilliant. The ferry ride home was crowded - perhaps because the storm was coming - I had to stand all the way home.

    It had been a great day and we checked our photos - too many to decide which six I could use on my blog - meanwhile the storm was brewing outside - we decided to go for dinner at 7pm before the rain starts. The hotel suggested a pizza place down a back alley - it turned out to be a good choice. Great service, healthy food and lots of it. I couldn't believe how many people they served so quickly without fuss.

    It was a high tide and so water was coming up through the drains in St Marks Square. I asked a shop assistant if her shop would flood, she said yes - always with the high tide. The lightning started and we filled our camera's and phones with movies of the show - it was very dramatic, almost mesmerising so you couldn't stop watching it. Mary's Fitbit was on 9km so we did a couple of laps of the square - jumping puddles to get up to 10km.

    Expect it will rain over night - tomorrow is the regatta in the Grand Canal - that should be fun.

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You might also know this place by the following names:

Museo del Merletto