Portella

We had another frankly wonderful breakfast and since it was our last at hotel del sole we went the whole hog and had actual cake. The kind of cake we’d normally have at 4pm with a cup of tea. But for breakfast. It was a chocolate chip and ricotta cake, I’m sure it had some sort of almond element as well. Whole piece of ricotta baked into the top. It was amazing.

We checked out and set off to Ragusa- around an hour away, driving through wild flower fields with a mix of deserted buildings small, modern-feel towns and finally climbed into the hills through a series of hairpin bends - which we took steadily and slowly.

Ragusa is two towns perched on top of hillside. Stunning from the outset. Even the car park was gorgeous nestled at the foot of ragusa superiore (the relatively newer part) studded with orange trees and scented with orange blossom. Having deposited the car, we climbed many, many steps up to the aptly named church of the steps from where we were rewarded with impressive views from one ragusa (superiore) across the small valley to the other (ragusa ibla). We ventured up the bell tower of the church of the steps and saw a magnificent view of ragusa ibla. Next we walked somewhat haphazardly towards the central square and Duomo San Georgio. This was another splendid work of baroque architecture with hints of a bling wedding cake. We walked past a huge Sicilian wedding party and just as the sun was really starting to heat up the whole square, we decided to sit and eat a most delicious lunch which was served by a slightly plump sixty year old man who made it clear he totally approved of our food choices: two types of arancini - one local to the area - and a superb pasta dish with speck, pecorino, artichoke and some cream. As we watched the Montalbano fan club walk by pausing at various fundamental landmarks we remarked that all countries seem to have a need for heart warming family dramas - usually of the murder mystery ilk. We continued to amble our way through the pretty but hot streets we felt the need for a gelato so we returned to t w central square for a couple of sensational ice creams which put us in good stead for a two and a half hour drive to our next stop: Agrigento.

The drive wound it’s way first through hum drum towns then into mountainsides so high above the plains that the towns below looked with tiny specks. my palms sweated and my mind raced with vertigo induced imaginings of our car taking on a mind of its own and careering off the road into the sheer drop beneath us. Once we reached the coast the landscape alternated between rural idyll, polytunnel covered agriculture and heavy industry then back to rural
Idyll. As we finally turned off the main road and would our way up to the hillside where tonight’s agriturismo was located we were firmly back in rural territory. After some confusing over how to exactly get through the gate (there are 2, one worked the other didn’t) we were welcomed to fattoria Mose, a fully working farm by a very friendly lady whose name we can’t remember. We sat chatting and enjoyed a glass of wine with her before being shown to our rooms.

Dinner was served in the Manor House. Cooked by Ciara, our gently welcoming host. This is her house/farm having been in the family since being built in the 1800s. We sat around a long table with the other guests, chatting and eating. Semolina gnocchi baked with cheeses and tomatoes, pistachio pesto, dressed salad, ground chicken and reshaped into little rolls so it looked like bread until you tasted it, a sweet pastry tart with savoury ricotta and speck filling. Pudding was orange jelly with whipped cream and tiny biscuits. Most of what we ate had been grown on the farm. It was a lovely and very unique evening.Les mer