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Camino 2023

mai - juni 2023
Et 50-dagers eventyr av Terri's Trails Les mer
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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    Dag 21

    Castro Urdiales to Liendo

    31. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today I decided to "wing it" and set out without a reservation for a place to spend the night. There were a couple of options - one that was much shorter, but I wasn't paying attention and ended up on the longer route that went inland a bit, so I missed some ocean views along the way. But after a big hill I was walking through some nice countryside with of course cows, sheep, goats, etc.

    I met a couple from Roseburg who I think were smart enough to take the shorter route. But I ended up at the public albergue in Liendo where I've met a lot of people who I'm sure I'll be seeing again for the days to come. I'm also glad that I took a different route than I did when I was on the Camino del Norte 5 years ago. It's often nicer to be in the smaller towns like this one where it's easier to get to know my fellow pilgrims.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    Dag 22

    Liendo to San Miguel de Meruelo

    1. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    This was a pretty great day. I started out walking with Charlie from Ireland who was in my albergue last night. We quickly reached Laredo on the coast where we walked on the pedestrian walkway as far as we could, then on the beach until we reached the point where we needed to catch the ferry across the estuary to Santoña. We met Manon from France who had already been walking 45 days from her home while waiting for the ferry, and ended up eating breakfast with her in Santoña and walking with her for most of the day. At breakfast we ran into a number of peregrinos who at least one of us had previously met. This made for a bit of a prolonged stop. We then walked through town until we got to a beach.

    After climbing a small steep hill that was very rocky we were rewarded with amazing views. We then descended to a long gorgeous beach where we eventually took off our shoes and walked along the water.

    By that time we were hungry for lunch and chose a restaurant overlooking the beach where once again we saw some of our pilgrim friends. We obviously were paying for the view as our salads cost more than some complete meals. And once again we spent more time than planned eating.

    We eventually said goodbye to Manon as she was planning to walk farther than us. We arrived in San Miguel de Mereulo later than planned so did our laundry at a lavandería rather than hand washing and waiting for it to dry.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    Dag 23

    San Miguel de Mereulo to Santander

    2. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I'm way behind on posting so I'm not going to write much.

    This was another beautiful day with great weather, and some more beach walking.

    I managed to arrive for the ferry to Santander just as it was about to leave which saved me a wait of up to an hour for the next one.

    I stayed at a nice hostel that was in the same building as the train station, but didn't see any other pilgrims there.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    Dag 24

    Santander to Liencres

    3. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I opted for a much less traveled and "unofficial" coastal alternative and it was beautiful. There were no way markings so I followed a forum member's Wikiloc tracks. But it was pretty easy so long as the ocean was on my right. The terrain was pretty rocky, and I stopped to take lots of pictures and enjoy the scenery, so I didn't get to the hotel that I had booked until after 4:00.

    At one point the path was overrun with cows, but a Spanish couple walking the opposite direction told me that they would let me pass 😊

    I couldn't get an affordable room in the town where other forum members had stayed, so I booked a place a few km farther.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    1
    Dag 25

    Liencres to Santillana del Mar

    4. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today was about the same distance as yesterday - approximately 27.5 km, but the there was more road walking which I can walk faster on than a stony trail and fewer photo opportunities, though there were some really pretty spots in the coast before I turned inland.

    Since my sojourn on the coast took me out of sync with some other pilgrims that I've met I'm happy to be staying at a large albergue with a communal dinner tonight. I have seen a few others that I've met before who had a rest day in Santander or split up the approx 36 km stage in two days.

    Santillana del Mar is a medieval walled city, and a tourist destination full of many souvenir shops and tourists, especially since it's a Sunday. Many of the shops have locally made products and not too much foreign made junk. The albergue where I'm staying is a former convent.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    1
    Dag 25

    Albergue El Convento

    4. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    This albergue in Santillana del Mar is fantastic. Most of the rooms have only one bunk bed. I'm in a room with a bunk bed occupied by two French women and my single bed. I asked for a lower bed and was asked if a room for three people was okay. I think that I really lucked out with not having to deal with a top bunk or lack of headroom of a lower bunk. The price is 14€ with a communal dinner offered for 10€.

    There's a big common room and a large garden with clotheslines.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    11
    Dag 26

    Santillana del Mar to Comillas

    5. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    I walked from one tourist town to another today, though Comillas is nowhere near as touristy as Santillana del Mar. It does have a house designed by Gaudí that is very interesting.

    I had been hoping to "wing it" today and stop whenever I felt like it, but I began hearing from others in the albergue last night that accommodation was tight in Comillas, which was 22.5 km away. My other option was San Vicente de la Barquera - which would have required at least another 2.5 hours to get to, and it was going to be a warm day. So I caved and booked a room in a pensión since the only hostel in town was fully booked.

    I did enjoy arriving early enough to go down to the beach, then tour the Gaudí house.

    This is what my guide book says about Comillas and the influence of the aristocracy from Barcelona:

    "Comillas boomed in the 19th century when the Barcelonan aristocracy started summering here – and brought their architects along. The local shipping magnate, Antonio López, made a fortune from the Cuban slave trade, bought the title of Marquis de Comillas, and married the daughter of Barcelona’s richest man. With money to burn, the marquis became Antoní Gaudí’s primary patron, and Gaudí left his mark in Comillas. The Capricho de Gaudí was entirely his own creation. Built as the marquis’s summerhouse, it is a stunning combination of iron, brick, and ceramic, displaying Spanish and Arabic influences. Sunflowers are prominent on this surrealist structure. Gaudí assisted with the general design and furnishings of the Palacio de Sobrellano, which is more properly attributed to Joan Mortorell. An impressive neo-Gothic building, this dominates the left hill as you follow the camino out of town. The interior is considered even finer than the exterior, particularly the grand salon. Regular tours run daily (€3). Gaudí also contributed to the Capilla-Pantéon, which holds the crypts of the marquis’s two sons."

    My plan for tomorrow is no plan. There are several towns that I can stop in along the way.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    111
    Dag 27

    Comillas to San Vicente de la Barquera

    6. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    My decision to "wing it" paid off. I ended up walking a short distance of about 12 km and having a semi rest day. When I walked this route in 2018 I took note if San Vicente de la Barquera, not because it was the most beautiful or historic place, but because it just looked comfortable to me. I had wanted to stay here, but didn't think that I would want to only walk 12 km, but when I arrived around 9 am today I just knew that I wanted to be here to rest and relax.

    While I was having breakfast at a local restaurant I consulted my guide book, apps, and booking.com to see where I could stay. One of the least expensive options was described as a 1905 stone mansion. I looked up from my breakfast and saw that it was right across the street from where I was sitting. I had noticed it while walking into town and assumed that it would be over my budget.

    After paying for my breakfast I walked over to the hotel to ask about a room, and not only was one available for the night it was ready right then at 10 in the morning, and was only 40€!

    It has a lively foyer and a grand staircase. The receptionist indicated that I could use the elevator, but I thought "forget that - I'm taking the beautiful stairs!"

    My room is good sized with high ceilings and large windows. After washing my clothes I settled down to a short nap that I didn't realize I needed.

    After the nap I went up the hill (there is always a hill!) to see the old church and the tower.

    Then back down to enjoy the menú del día at the same restaurant where I had breakfast.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeCamino 2023
    12
    Dag 28

    San Vicente de la Barquera to Pendueles

    7. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    I was really hoping to stay at the donativo albergue Aves de Paso in Pendueles because I had read really good things about it and its owner, but I messaged her yesterday and she wrote back that the albergue is closed until tomorrow due to a death in the family. I ended up at another place with a very nice owner, and the room that I'm in has only four single beds (no bunk beds!). It's after 8 pm and there are only two of us in the room, so it's very comfortable.

    The walk today was on country roads which led to the ocean, so I had nice views most of the way. There was cloud cover which kept the day fairly cool for walking, and it even rained for about 15 minutes.

    Edit to add - I had a great meal at the Mexican restaurant down the street, Casa Flor. Really delicious enchiladas suizas and a margarita.😋. A nice change of pace from the standard menú del día.    Les mer

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