India ‘23

July - August 2023
A 26-day adventure by Anthony & Jane Walsh Read more
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  • Karala and Tamil Nadu

    July 13, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We were invited to spend a couple of weeks at the Matrix orphanage in the small village of Atoor, Tamil Nadu . Looking back it is amazing to reflect on so many new experiences we had that were so different from home. Nothing like a big culture shock to awaken all our senses and give perspective to our lives.
    Our hosts were amazing, making sure we were as comfortable as we could be and to show us as much of their world as possible, the good and the bad. It was such a privilege to be shown it all and to be able to live with them in their community.
    We saw the poorest of the poor, families from babies to grandparents living in small shacks with very basic facilities and dilapidated structures. Many were impacted by the long term effects of real life tragedies where the sole bread winner had died, leaving the family no source of income or where the family life had been destroyed by the father’s addiction to alcohol, resulting in either violence or no income..
    We saw families that had small but beautiful small homes built by proud, loving and humble community minded people.
    We visited the very poor suburbs and met with self help groups that collectively were slowly lifting the standard of living in their area by creating income generating activities in groups and creating a pool of funds that could be loaned to individuals for education, health and other critical events. Some activities were rudimentary like making and selling shelters from palm branches, while others purchased equipment with the loans to make and sell products. One group made very professional looking sealed packages of spices, sweets, and other food and sold them locally, others did baking or washed the linen from a nearby hotel. The self help groups have a consistent structure and very comprehensive financial records for each member. A wonderful system! We discussed opportunities for them to be more ambitious by attracting loans to buy equipment. There were over 200 of these groups, each with 20 members taking control of their destiny.
    We visited churches, convents and seminaries and met so many bishops, priests, sisters and brothers. We even met a Cardinal! The church has created so many schools and colleges to lift education in the region. We visited a very impressive, internationally recognised engineering college, a teachers college and a school. Only 25 years ago, none of this existed and the area was very poor indeed. Now they have good facilities and hope.
    Where ever we visited we were warmly welcomed. They were genuinely happy that we had come all the way to visit them. They saw it as a sign of love and care. For more people than we expected we were the first westerners they had spoken too. For 2 and a half weeks, we did not see a single other white face so you can imagine the looks we got, the requests for a photo and hundreds of ‘where are you from” questions. Rather embarrassingly, wherever we went, we were the guests of honour and treated like royalty. Often their were posters with our photos at the entrance welcoming us. We were given traditional welcome ceremonies so many gifts. We also couldn’t visit without being fed something. Tea, fruit, rice, bread of sorts, curry, nuts, dates, …
    Overall, they were warm, welcoming and kind people. The sisters in particular always had gentle warm smiles and loved to feed us.
    A key feature of our time was the food. At every meal (even breakfast) there was rice or a variety of rice bread and a curry sauce of some sort. So many wonderful flavours. Then all sorts of delicious tasty bites made from cauliflower or breads and many other veggies. The fruit was locally grown with at least 5 types of bananas, mango, apple, jack fruit, pineapple, pomegranates, dates, etc. We had the lids of coconuts cut off so we could drink from them and then chopped open to eat the fruit.
    The primary purpose of our visit was the orphanage. We found out that the majority of the boys were not actually orphans but from homes impacted by the effects of alcohol. Often the most terrible stories of violence where they could not continue to live safely at home. Sometimes the stories had happy endings where the father managed to kick the habit or other family members helped. Matrix is just the most wonderful place for these boys. Not only do they have quality shelter, nutritious food and education but a team of people around them who provide them love, care and hope and a structured life where they learn life lessons, all lead by the wonderful Fr Maria, the most caring, compassionate person you will ever meet. His focus is primarily on the poor and those most in need. They wake each morning for prayers at 5:45, do homework from 6 to 7, chores from 7 to 7:30, then breakfast and school. Returning from school their is scheduled study time, then outdoor games (volleyball, basketball, badminton and local games) then bath time, dinner, prayers and study time. The boys also help with the rubber tree plantation on the property. The trees are tapped for milk, which is collected on small trays and turned into latex sheets, which is then sold for a small amount.
    We ate and played with them, attended the evening study session, helping them with English and other subjects. In this time we were able to develop relationships with the individual boys. They were so well mannered and craved attention. They would offer to do everything for us. We shared so many special moments with them.
    We visited many new places. Some of which are: Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of mainland India and is the meeting point of the 3 seas surrounding India ( Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, and the Bay of Bengal), Ghandi Memorial, the oldest standing church in the World founded by St Thomas in 60 AD, many interesting places dedicated to their new Saint, St Devasahayam, who was born as an upper caste Indian Man and converted to Catholicism. He embraced Christianity and championed the rights of India’s lowest castes preaching the equality of all people despite rigid caste differences. It was for this reason that he was persecuted and killed. We attended the 70th anniversary of the death of Mar Ivanios, the first Archbishop of the Syro Malankara Catholic Church and is in line of becoming another Indian Saint.
    All this came with the culture shock. You can prepare yourself as much as possible but you don’t know until you are there what will be different. It was not good or bad just different and the key is to identify it early and adapt quickly. Where they were aware of the difference they would offer us an alternative but often they didn’t know. The culture differences don’t seem like much in hindsight but when they hit you all at once it can be confronting. Here are a few examples that become normal for us:
    - bathing with a bucket of cold water
    - the very close personal space barriers
    - eating meals with someone standing next to you, waiting to serve, more dishes, etc. they first make sure the guest has eaten and when you leave they eat.
    - eating the food with your hands, everything- even curry and rice. (We were offered cutlery but did try to be a local
    - the traffic and driving, overtaking with traffic coming towards you, swerving and only having an “Indian seatbelt” otherwise known as a prayer. The huge number of Motorbikes with 2, 3 or 4 people on them and no one wearing helmets, and often carrying wares of sorts
    - the many street animals that wander the streets and are quite used to the traffic
    - the conservative style of dress. Saris are actually worn as an everyday outfit. Men wear long pants always and the women don’t show their ankles.
    - being the guest of honour wherever you go and being treated like royalty. Always in the limelight and being made a fuss of, from people we would normally look up to
    - being woken up very early by the call to pray from surroundings churches. Microphones and loudspeakers are used for every occasion. It is quite normal to hear the entire service from a nearby church.
    - the different Catholic rite, Syro-Malankara. Thankfully we had an order of service in the local Tamil and English, so we could follow along
    - eating when you visit so as not to offend, even after a huge lunch
    - or being able to go for a walk
    - the language barrier
    - shopping was a challenge
    All in all, an incredible experience we will never forget.
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  • Day 18

    Udaipur

    July 31, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We flew from Trivandrum to Udaipur, the city of lakes, via Bengaluru (Bangalore). We were met by our guide, Mr Deepak, and personal driver, Mr Singh, both gentlemen and at our service. We checked into our beautiful hotel, The Trident. What a sight, so peaceful and luxurious. I am not going to lie - the cold beer and hot shower were very welcome, although I would not change our experience at the orphanage for anything. Our dinner was a delicious buffet of local cuisine to the backdrop of Indian dancers and traditional flute playing. We ended our meal with the beautiful Marsala tea.

    The next day after after a huge breakfast selection we were collected by Mr Deepak and Mr Singh for a day of sightseeing.

    We visited City Palace, where the Royal family still reside, the same family since 566. The largest royal compound in Rajasthan, built with granite and marble. It is built atop a hill, overlooking Lake Pichola. Several lakes were constructed in the area, providing beautiful scenery and water to the city. The city is also surrounded by mountains and was never conquered by the moguls.

    Mr Deepak took some time to explain some of the Hindu origins and beliefs and we visited a few temples in the area. We took a boat ride on Lake Pichola, which is encircled by the Aravalli mountain. We visited the island in the middle of the lake which used to be owned and occupied by the Royal family and used as a place of relaxation. It is now a hotel. It is beautifully peaceful away from the hustle and bustle of the city. We were taken shopping to an incredible fabric centre where we could not pass the opportunity of having some locally made outfits tailored for us which were delivered to our hotel later that night. We had a small rest before being picked up once again to witness some beautiful Indian dancing alongside some commentary.
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  • Day 20

    Pushkar

    August 2, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    After expert driving by Mr Singh, of 6 hours we arrived in Pushkar. Pushkar is a small town, a pilgrimage destination for Hindus. It has a sacred lake and the only temple in the world dedicated to the God Brahman. This dominates the culture of the town which is surrounded by mountains, nature and the beginning of the desert.
    We walked through the town which is one large market place, sharing the roads with cows, cars, auto rickshaws and motorbikes and did a bit of shopping. We watched them make us the most delicious masala tea, while sitting in a street cafe stall, while enjoying watching the passing traffic, and then went to the lake. We participated in their traditional water ritual to remember ancestors and family which the pilgrims come for which was very interesting. We then visited the temple and then took a cable car to the top of a mountain where there is a temple dedicated to Savitri. And watched a beautiful sunset over the sand dunes before heading to our resort. Our resort, the Greenhouse, has luxury tented chalets that felt like a safari resort in Africa with warm staff and lovely food. Everything was green and spotless, a stark difference to the town.

    The next morning we had a quick camel cart ride to the border of the dessert which was quite green following all the rain. We passed many gypsies and food stalls so we’re grateful to have our guide as we would have been hounded!
    The area has a natural beauty but is sadly not well maintained by the locals with litter everywhere, erosion and dust. There are efforts from the government to improve hygiene and the litter issue but it will take years.
    The geography and the tribal areas are so similar to Africa in many ways we feel quite at home. It is just like driving through parts of rural Africa.
    Our guide was a local and his family have a temple so he is very knowledgeable about the Hindu religion. He was quite balanced and gave us many insights including his views on the various religions, the Indian government and many other topical issues. It really is interesting hearing the various views and comparing them to our other guides. There certainly is a wide variation of opinion from South to North.
    We are being so well looked after by our tour operator, the guides and our driver, Mr Singh.
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  • Day 21

    Jaipur (The Pink City)

    August 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    We started with a wonderful old city orientation walking tour, including hopping onto an auto rickshaw, which gave the traffic a whole new dimension. Jaipur (capital of Rajasthan) is a big city, famous for the pink coloured buildings painted the colour of hospitality as a welcome to Queen Victoria when she visited in 1876.
    The city was built from a master plan in 1727 with roads running in a grid and then divided into wards and smaller precincts. Each precinct then housed specific trades from metal workers to jewellers, tailors, etc. The trades are still there today and we saw people flattening silver and gold to be used with fabrics, bangle making, gem cutting and polishing, jewellery making and tailoring. We tasted some samosas, jalebi (sweet) and masala tea in the old city with our guide.
    Our guide took us to the Amer Fort outside of Jaipur which was the palace for the royal family before Jaipur city was built. It was massive and beautifully preserved. He taught us so many things about the Hindu religion, the impact of the architecture to manage the various seasons and the customs of the time, including the caste system. From the fort we were able to see the rugged mountainous surroundings.
    In the old city we visited the new palace and the monuments with a detailed history lesson in the Raj and Maharaja family tree. Across India, there were over 500 Royal kingdoms at the time of independence (1947). Many still exist but have no control or power.
    We then went to a fascinating science park with massive sundials accurate to within 2 second built in the 1700’s. There were also perfect models showing the stars and constellations. Really incredible if you consider the accuracy and the fact that some people at the time still believed the earth was flat!
    We loved our tour in Jaipur led by our very knowledgeable guide.
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  • Day 23

    Agra

    August 5, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Agra is on everyone’s list because of the Taj Mahal. Our guide was waiting for us at the hotel after our 4 hour drive from Jaipur and we set off for a buffet lunch and then to visit Agra Fort.
    The fort was built in the 1600’s by the Mughals who were incredibly wealthy at that time and thus can be evidenced in the beautiful structures which served as the palaces for their families when they ruled the area with some incredible engineering, including water heating and cooling.
    The fort is located on the river with great views of the Taj Mahal.
    The Taj Mahal was commissioned by the 5th Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, as a tomb and sign of his love for his favourite wife (the other 2 were arranged marriages). She died shortly after giving birth to their 14th child. He moved her body to be buried at the site and started spending more and more time there and spending more and more money on honouring her.
    His oldest son, concerned about the spending and lack of time ruling had his father jailed. He also killed his 2 bothers to ensure he had the control and power to rule. His father spent his last 8 years in jail but his room had great views of the Taj Mahal so he was able to be near to his beloved. When he died, his daughter ensured he was buried next to his beloved wife (making this the only asymmetrical item in the building).
    The Taj Mahal is surrounded by beautiful green gardens and river pools and is slightly elevated above ground level which makes it seem like it is floating. The gardens were to represent the feel of paradise as described in the Koran.
    The symmetrical structure itself is grand and peaceful, built with local white marble embedded with precious gem stones and gold.
    We visited at sunrise which created a very special calmness as well as having fewer people.
    We visited the artisans, directly descended from those who built the Taj Mahal to see how they inlayed the gems into the marble. The marble comes from nearby Rajasthan and is incredibly durable which makes it even more difficult to work with. It explains the incredible preservation of the building.
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  • Day 24

    Delhi

    August 6, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    This was our last stop before heading home and what a treat it was. Our hotel was a beautiful building in the Diplomatic Enclave, wide quiet streets and forests nearby and lovely staff and food.
    We went to the Delhi Cathedral for our first English mass in months.
    In the morning, we started with a guided walk through old Delhi which certainly awakened all our senses! We visited a Hindu Jain temple and then walked through the Hindu area, tasting some samosas and Jelibee. Then we walked towards the Islamic section near the magnificent mosque. Our guide was Hindu but had a great respect for all religions so we learned a lot. She also took us to a Sikh temple (one on each day) and saw how they provided meals to anyone, 24 hours a day. We were able to walk through the kitchens too. An amazing service they offer. Some 30,000 meals are served daily and everyone who helps in anyway are all volunteers.
    We walked through the spice markets with a huge selection of spices, chillies and things we’d never seen before, all surrounded by crazy traffic and horns honking. The city is so alive! The evening market, Delhi Haat, was much more sedate and calming.
    Our guides in Delhi were so knowledgeable and balanced so we had great discussions about religion, politics and anything else.
    We said goodbye to Mr Singh, our amazingly patient and caring driver who made us feel safe and comfortable all the time.
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  • Day 26

    Indian Reflections

    August 8, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    This final post is motivated by the questions we got when we returned home and the reaction to the answers so they may be worth sharing. The question was “would you go back?” Answer “yes, absolutely”. Reaction “ Why? It is interesting that this would have been our reaction before going too.

    Before arriving in India we were very apprehensive and probably a bit unsure whether we would enjoy it or not. This was mostly driven by perceptions and the fear of the unknown. We had been warned about so many things, getting sick from the water and the street food, the spicy food, the dangerous driving, the lack of personal space, crowds, being hassled by beggars and vendors trying to flog something you didn’t want, “baksheesh” or the art of seeking tips, pickpockets, the cows in the roads, the rabid dogs, the lack of English, etc. So, it is no wonder we entered with apprehension.

    By the end of our visit we were quite comfortable with our surroundings and were a lot more adventurous. Looking back we can see that while all the risks may be present at a point in time, and while we needed to be aware of them, they shouldn’t stop us from seeing the local life through a positive lens and manage the risks accordingly . This was made a whole lot easier for us through knowledge gained, understanding and allowing time to acclimatise. As a first visit to India, we appreciated staying with people we either knew and people they knew so they could be trusted. When we didn’t know people, we stayed in good, safe hotels where we could have our own safe space, and we had a driver taking us everywhere and visiting major sites and shopping with a guide. I’m sure we could be more adventurous on future visits. We were fortunate to see so many aspects of Indian life, from the poorest of small villages to the large bustling city of Delhi, accommodation from the basics, with cold water and buckets to bath and noisy fans to the luxury of air conditioned 5 star hotels to spoil ourselves.

    We had a wonderful time overall and we’re grateful that our experiences were all so positive. India is a vibrant, fascinating country with warm and friendly people. Well worth visiting!

    Some specific insights and reflections

    Driving
    The first reaction to driving is that it seems highly dangerous and chaotic. Cars, busses, trucks, motorbikes, auto rickshaws, people, dogs and cows all coming from different angles with the constant sound of horns making it feel like an accident is going to happen any any time. Lane markings seem like guidelines.
    The reality is completely different. Somehow, all these users manage to move around with some strange sort of harmony and maintain and flow without accidents. Their mindset is different. If we tried to have that many cars and users in the same space, the traffic would just come to a stop as there is not enough space. We would wait for a gap that would never appear and we would constantly be cursing others for cutting us off.
    Here, they don’t need a gap, they make one movement and then others around adapt. They weave in and out knowing others around them could move at any time. They expect to be cut-off or shepherded to one side. Towards the end we were quite comfortable and even crossed busy roads on foot by moving into spaces. It is not chaotic, but deliberate and moving in a co-ordinated manner. I’d love to see some drone footage - a bit like synchronised swimming maybe.

    Cows
    We knew cows were considered sacred so just couldn’t understand why they would allow them to wander wherever they wanted, often in dangerous situations where they could be killed at any time. It is not unusual to see a cow lying in the right hand land or middle lane of a 3 lane highway, or on a busy street or roundabout. Our guide told us it is not dangerous for them as people will stop or avoid them. People will actually come and leave grass or food for the cows on the street. We asked why they were sacred and one explanation was that linking a new rule to a religious belief was often more likely to be successful that just changing a rule. Cows were not always sacred but became a currency. His story was that way back in time, cows were becoming short in number and they feared extinction. Cow milk was valuable for humans due to poor nutrition levels when mothers could not produce enough milk for their babies as they grew and cow milk was the only milk babies could digest. So, they wanted to encourage people to look after cows.

    Dogs
    There are street dogs everywhere. They are not sacred and also seem to survive. They have amazing Road sense. Again, a traffic hazard that I’m sure will need to be resolved. Because the Hindu religion believes in reincarnation and karma, all animals should be treated with respect as they could be ancestors in another form.

    Shopping
    Shopping can be a stressful activity, mostly because you have no idea of the price of an item and you know it could take longer than necessary to complete the transaction. It was made harder when we were taken into a co-operative on our tours, where some sort of artisans were at work, either making block print textiles and clothing, paintings or artwork, gem stone cutting, etc. the drill is that they show you how they do their trade and then take you to the warehouse. You feel obliged to buy something but often don’t want it. The guide was probably getting a cut from the sale too. Towards the end we tried to buy from market stalls. Having a local with us at times certainly made it easier.

    Beggars
    Indians do not encourage giving money to beggars. They are very generous with people trying to earn money and there are several places to get a free meal. If you give one something, you will be quickly surrounded by others. Some of the young kids are used to beg for the parents from an early age. The gypsies also appear to be poor but apparently can be quite wealthy. However we certainly didn’t see as many beggars as we expected. Ideally we should have had food with us to give.

    Tipping
    People are generally very happy to help with whatever you need. This is helped by the practice of giving a small tip for almost anything, posing for a photo, a magic trick, carrying your bag, providing a clean toilet, pointing out a great photo spot, anything. It works very well and there is a sense that they are at least trying to earn a living. Having a pocket full of small change is essential.

    Language
    Most people can speak some English because local language changes from state to state and often a few dialects in a state. Hindi is the most common language spoken.

    Religion
    There is freedom of Religion and generally everyone is very accepting and respectful towards all religions. 80% of the population is Hindu and the balance is Muslim, Sikh and various forms of Christianity. Politically, there is more religious tension and a concern that there is too much active conversion to Muslim or Christianity. Only 1% of the total population are Christian and these are mainly in the South, where it is as high as 35%. When we were there, we noticed a huge Christian presence but very little further North. In the South, there is concern that if the present Hindu government wins the general election in 2024, they may put a ban on conversions and any international funding. The government is promoting the concept of India as a the only place which could be called a “Hindu Nation”. Watching this space will be interesting.

    Food
    We tried so many new dishes which varied based on what was locally grown. In the South, where the rice is grown, everything is about rice and a huge variety of rice breads, buns, cakes, noodles, etc. in the North where the wheat is grown it is more of the breads, Naans, Roti, etc, all served with a variety of curry dishes, mostly vegetarian and chicken. With the ocean close by there was plenty of Fish in the South. We also had some lovely desserts made with rice, milk, fruit, honey and beautiful spices like cinnamon and cardamom. They accommodated foreigners with medium spicy food and we did not have a single bad reaction to any food in the 4 weeks. The masala tea was delicious too.

    Hospitality
    The Indian people were warm and friendly and genuinely grateful that we were visiting them. The tourism and hotel staff would always greet you with a warm smile and nothing was too much trouble. The tour operators that organised our last 8 days would check in daily and would phone the hotel and local tour guides to ensure everything was perfect. They were genuinely delighted when we chose the local option, either food or drink and then went out of their way to explain it to us and to make sure it was perfect. They loved it when we wore their traditional outfits too.

    Government / politics
    The politics is very interesting and very different depending on who you talk to. The next election is early in 2024 so it was quite topical. The majority of people we spoke to in the North were Hindu and well educated. They gave a balanced view of the politics. Giving examples of good and bad but the overwhelming perception was that they liked Modi because he was a man of action and got things done. The stories of rapid infrastructure development and make their living better were common, improving the provision of basic services. They also had a sense of hope that India was moving forward on the international stage and they were important. They also believed he as doing a good job in reducing corruption at the central level and with issues that impact the poor.

    The South was a different story as the Modi party is not in power in those states. Development has been much slower there as the states and central government argue on priorities. The view there is also that the central government is clamping down on other religions poaching their people by actively converting then to Islam or Christianity and they give examples of where good Christian activities are shut down by government or drowned with administrative red tape, including not granting visas to visitors from other religions or preventing money coming in to support other religion activities. This is political only as the people on the ground from various religions work together for common good.

    The opposition parties (17 of them) have formed a sort of coalition for the next elections as they believe Modi will increasingly exert his power with a 3rd term in office. While some people believe that is not a bad thing they know that development and infrastructure growth will stall as no decisions will be made.
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