Japan
Kitaazumi Gun

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    • Day 73–76

      Hakuba & Noto Island

      October 4, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Eigentlich war unser Plan, nach dem Mount Fuji einen Abstecher zum Dorf Shirakawa-go und Gokayama zu machen. Diese Orte sind bekannt für ihre traditionellen Holzhäuser mit grossen Giebeldächern, deren Struktur von grosser Handwerkskunst zeugen. Die beiden Dörfer zählen sogar zum UNESCO Weltkulturerbe. Da die Reise dorthin jedoch extrem viel Zeit in Anspruch genommen hätte und auch die Weiterreise erschwert worden wäre, entschieden wir uns für einen Abstecher nach Hakuba in der angrenzenden Präfektur Nagano. Hakuba ist ein bekannter Wintersportort mit einer grossen Olympiaschanze fürs Skispringen, auf welcher sich in der Nebensaison japanische Schneeaffen tummeln, sowie weiteren Einrichtungen wie Skilifte, Hotels und Après-Ski Bars. Unsere Unterkunft, die Panketo Lodge war sehr komfortabel und ein kräftiger junger Japaner, der froh schien wenn man ihn etwas beschäftigte, war stets zu unserer Verfügung wenn wir einen Shuttle Service benötigten. Da gerade Nebensaison war, gab es nur wenige Touristen und viele Gebäude waren geschlossen oder im Umbau. Auch in der Panketo Lodge liefen noch einige Vorbereitungen für die Wintersaison was uns aber nicht störte.

      Wir nutzten die Zeit in Hakuba um ein bisschen die Landschaft zu erkunden. Ich begab mich wieder mal auf einen Trailrun und Selina wanderte hoch zu einem Bergsee, der ein besonderes Besuchermagnet zu sein schien. Der Weg zum See war so voll mit Leuten wie die Autobahn vor dem Gotthard Nordportal an einem Karrfreitag. Meinen Trailrun musste ich vorzeitig beenden, da doch bereits mehr Schnee auf den Wegen lag als erwartet. So rannte ich die grünen Skipisten zurück ins Dorf. Auf dem Weg begegnete mir noch ein Serau, eine Art japanische Gams die aussieht wie eine Kreuzung aus Wildschwein und Ziege. Das Serau glotzte mich verdutzt an. Ich gaffte zurück. Wir starrten uns etwa 10 Minuten an. Noch selten bin ich so einem komischen, unförmigen und fast schon hässlichen Lebewesen begegnet - selbes dürfte also wohl für das Serau gegolten haben. Irgendwann wurde es dem Tier dann wohl zu bunt und es verschwand im Dickicht des Waldes. Bevor ich zurück ins Dorf konnte musste ich noch einen Fluss überqueren, weil ich wenig Lust auf Umweg von einem Kilometer zu einer Brücke hatte . Dabei klatschte ich ins Wasser und holte mir eine tiefe Schnittwunde am Handballen. Ein Pärchen am Uferrand beobachtete die Szene - also immer schön lächeln und weiterrennen. Es wäre zu peinlich neben meinem Gleichgewicht auch noch mein Gesicht zu verlieren.

      Nach Hakuba ging es weiter mit der Eisenbahn Richtung Nanao, wo wir mit dem Fahrrad eine kleine Inselrundfahrt auf Noto Island planten. Unsere Pläne machten wir jedoch ohne den Sportsday. Dieser japanische Feiertag, der Sport und einen gesunden Lebensstil fördern sollte, liess die Preise für Unterkünfte an diesem Wochenende in die Höhe schnellen. Nun, wenn die Preise durch die Decke gehen, verzichten wir halt auf die Decke und übernachten unter freiem Himmel. In diesem Fall stellten wir unser Zelt im Städtchen Hakui auf einer Schneise zwischen Meer und Autobahn auf, ca. 20km südwestlich von Noto Island. Nach einer kurzen, nicht allzu erholsamen Nacht, setzten wir uns wieder in den Zug nach Nanao wo wir am Bahnhof zwei Fahrräder für unsere Inselrunde mieteten. Zur Auswahl standen vier Fahrräder, zwei elektische, zwei normale. Da wir ja den Japanern nicht den Sportsday vermiesen wollten, entschieden wir uns für die elektrische Variante.

      Die meisten Besucher kamen wohl wegen dem Notojima Aquarium auf die Insel. Wie in jedem Aquarium schwimmen dort viele Fische und Meeressäuger in kleinen Glasbehältern, damit man mal ein Sushi sehen kann bevor es in Reis und Seegrasblätter eingewickelt wird. Ansonsten gab es auf der Insel nicht sonderlich viel spezielles, ein paar kleine Dörfchen, ein paar Buchten, Strände und ein bisschen Wald. Alles in allem war die Radtour aber ganz angenehm und mal eine gute Abwechslung zum Programm in den Bergen.
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    • Day 2

      Hakuba accomodation - Snowlines Lodge

      March 4 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      Just arrived at our accomodation for the week in Hakuba. It’s snowing everywhere and is just beautiful.
      Our accomodation is a lodge which is so beautiful and well thought through.
      Our room is Japanese designed with floor mats and a toilet ensuite. The communal showers and onsen bath are downstairs and the bath water is constant 38 degrees 😍 can’t wait for a soak.
      The lodge has a continental breakfast, a free shuttle to the 4 main mountains, a bar with a wide selection and do communal dinners which sound great. We will likely do the Japanese hot pot on Saturday as we missed out on the make your own sushi tonight.
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    • Day 7

      And thats a wrap 👏

      March 9 in Japan ⋅ 🌫 -5 °C

      The weather was insane; gusts of high winds, the snow did not let up at all, we were wet, frozen, covered head to toe in snow from falling over, exhausted from the extra effort involved in navigating the POW and we could not havw been a happier pair!
      It was an amazing day with no major injuries. What a cherry on top to a great week!
      Lunch involved a hotdog and an Asahi Tornado (see video).

      Entering Spicy rentals and dropping off our snowboards, rather than swapping, was an odd feeling as we were so used to carrying them back from the store. We felt naked without them.
      We had a quick shower and onsen before our in-lodge dinner of Habe at 6 pm. What an incredible meal!
      Orchestrated by Sarasa (Stephens wife and our other host), she prepared a hot dish that was essentially a Japanese broth, which we added various ingredients (carrots, Japanese rocket lettuce, 3 types of mushrooms, sprouts, chicken and pockets of ... held together with toothpicks). They were boiled at table side, and you picked out what you wanted to eat with the tongs, placing it into either of the 2 sauces; a sesame based and a lemon soy.
      Part way through, we were given a chicken mince concoction to separate into mini meatballs and cook them in the broth.
      When all the ingredients were eaten and only broth remained, Sarasa came around with rice and turned it into a Japanese style risotto!
      To cap it all off, there was ice cream with red bean for dessert 😋.
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    • Day 5

      #4 Happo One, Okonimiyaki & Spicy!

      March 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

      Day 3 of snowboarding 🏂. Despite both of us incurring injuries yesterday, there shall be no rest days! Jays calf was no better, and he was wondering how it was so sore - turns out it's from him getting whacked by the chairlifts consistently, so silly!
      I was another lovely 830 bus ride just around the corner, which meant a sleep in.
      The mountain itself was much bigger than we anticipated, and our injuries didn't hold us back at all, really. Jay still had consistency with foot issues while being in bindings, and we stopped regularly for him to get feeling back in after unstrapping.
      There was plenty of POW around. We got stuck a bunch, Esther discovered she could get out if POW by tobogganing on her snowboard, and we got plenty of tree runs in.
      We switched both our boards again and headed home for a wash and onsen.
      Dinner was okonimiayaki, and it was Oishi! Run by a Son and his Father, this small restaurant served up some delightful foods. Jay tried some odd drinks; a beer with tomato juice called the red eye, and another was beer and Ginger ale.
      Rather tipsy and quite full, we were back in the lodge bar, had a drink, or 2 and chatted with the staff.
      A good day 😌
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    • Day 6

      Lazy evening

      March 8 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

      We walked down the corner to a place called Zen and had some hot soba noodles. It had a fair bit of hype around town; the building was traditional Japanese, and it looked very cute. Inside, there were floor seating tables, and it all looked very pretty. We arrived at 540pm with no booking as was suggested to us by our host Sara, and when we asked for a table the response was that there was a reservation for 7pm and that we probably wouldn't be able to fit. After some convincing that we could warily eat in an hour, we were taken to a back corner with regular seating in a non decorated area.

      Luckily, the food was ok, Esther finally got some salmon sashimi, blanched scallops, and miso eggplant. The cups in the picture were for the sake we ordered, and we were given the basket to choose a cup from - very cute. Overall, the handmade sofa noodles weren't amazing in our opinion. Maybe we aren't soba people 🤷‍♀️ The dessert was also delicious, a panacotta type dish and some lemon sorbet, yum!

      Then, we came back to the lodge for Esther to finish and hand in her assignment
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    • Day 4

      Day 4.

      February 9 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      4 hour train trip from Shinjuku to Hakuba. Checked into Hotel Kuraya where we were supposed to stay 5 years ago. After a few practice runs on the sloaps and beers at The Rabbit Hole, we had an amazing pizza for dinner at Shogun Pizza Bar.Read more

    • Day 6

      #5 Iwatake Mountain

      March 8 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

      A smaller resort with only a few runs compared to what we have experienced so far, but an incredible view of the surrounding mountains. Esther commented on their beauty MANY times throughout the day!

      The weather was phenomenal, around 11am the sun came out and we enjoyed a refreshing Yuzu beverage in the sun 🌞, we then walked over to another area where we found a picturesque bakery overlooking the other side of the mountains with a gorgeous view. We had to try the bakery, so we waited in line and got an expensive sandwich and maple/bacon scone!

      The rest of the day was met with some playful runs, hitting side kicks, Jay attempted some park and is still afraid of flying through the air. He didn't land any, but it's getting slightly better. He did, however, hit the flat box rail, but the board slid out from under him on the more tricky rail. He landed on it but was mostly uninjured.
      We did see someone go for a huge jump only to crash and somehow lose their snowboard down the mountain - luckily, it crashed into a mound of snow at the bottom of the park. We saw them get up, not sure what happened after that.

      As we were going to head out for an early dinner, we decided to head down for an earlier bus. A tasty beer at the bottom while we waited, and Esther bought Jay a warmer tartan buff 🥰.
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    • Day 2

      Boards, Ramen, Relaxation 😌

      March 4 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 -2 °C

      Dropped off by our lodge owner Steve at our rental place, Spicy.

      Picked our boards from a great selection, git the bindings fitted and headed over to the ramen restaurant next door.

      After a delicious meal and an icy (literally - very slippery!) walk back to the lodge, sitting by the fireplace while Esther does some study with a beer for me and a sweet sake for her 😋Read more

    • Day 3

      #1 Tsugaike Kogen

      March 5 in Japan ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C

      Today was the first day on slopes, up at 620 am, peeling on our thermals and snow gear, and down for breakfast by 7am.
      Croissants, cereals, egg on toast - to be our breakfast the next few days!

      On the lodge shuttle to the resort, we arrived by 745am and had our passes organised by 8am.
      A 20-minute gondola ride to the top, and we were super excited to have nicely groomed tracks, fresh powder, and no wait times for chairs all day.
      No injuries despite some time in the park "doing jumps", but very exhausted with our thighs consistently burning as the runs are so much longer than we are used to!

      Finished the day by grqbbing a beer and soaking our feet in a foot onsen for an hour while we waited for the bus back to the lodge.

      Jay swapped his board for a new one. We tried the lodge onsen for the first time tonight. The water was HOT 🔥
      Dinner in Echoland, beef udon noodles in broth - simple, delicious (oishi) and exactly what the doctor ordered.
      Capping the night off relatively early with a beverage at the bar, then bed to rest our weary bodies 😴
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    • Day 7

      Return to Tsugaike with POW ++

      March 9 in Japan ⋅ 🌫 -7 °C

      We heard Tsugaike was going to be the better choice for a POW day, great tree runs, plus the added bonus it was one we had been to and enjoyed and also that we didnt have to rey on alternative transport to get there!
      What craziness this morning! As dubbed by Stephen, all the 'Weekend Warriors' are out on the mountain today as it is Saturday - even more so as it's a POW day!
      This is the first time we had to queue for lifts all week, but after the first couple of hours, when people dispersed themselves across the mountain, the queuing became much less.
      Plenty of times, we got stuck coming down the powder runs, but it didn't take long for some of the tracks to become tracked out.
      We got ourselves a DBD pass so that we could do tree runs. This basically entailed signing a form and watching an instructional safety briefing on YouTube before venturing into this terrain on our own... Wish us luck 🤞
      A quick fried chicken and beer snack and off we go!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Kitaazumi Gun, 北安曇郡

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