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Camino 2018

april - juni 2018
En 51-dags äventyr från Jill Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino 2018
    1

    Ah, Galicia, land of delights

    2 juni 2018, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    A lovely very short 14km walk today. Down into the valleys, along typical Galician lanes, through close settled villages where life is so much softer than up in the mountains. Today I saw roses everywhere and was reminded of my dear friend Catherine, who loved them. The rose photos are for her.

    I and my walking companions could not go past this extraordinary house for tonight’s accommodation - it is like sleeping in a museum. Built in 1776 it stayed in the same family, none of whom ever threw anything away, and one of whom became a minister under Franco. He restored the house luxuriously and collected even more extraordinary objects. Eventually it passed out of that family. It is now owned by a man from Philadelphia who fell in love with it while walking the Camino and bought it lock stock and barrel (and tortoise shells, and masks from Guatemala, chess sets from China, elephant tusks, knives from Borneo, carvings from Japan, etc, etc). The wine collection alone is huge - I only got a glimpse of the cellar - with racks and racks of dust covered bottles.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino 2018

    First pulpo on Corpus Christi

    3 juni 2018, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Flowers and coloured sand patterns outside the churches for Corpus Christi (don’t ask) and. —- pulpo! Delicious.

    But a long walk into Ourense - or at least it felt long - and my feet do not look objects of beauty. Or feel good. Cracked heels. My own fault, not paying them enough attention and not moisturising. Tomorrow I might look for a podiatrist to patch me up so I can make the final push to Santiago. Only 100km to go.

    How do you tell a pilgrim? She puts beauty cream on her feet before her face.

    In Ourense we traipsed down to the thermal baths and soaked for an hour. Bliss! And it is free.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino 2018

    The last 100km!

    5 juni 2018, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I spent two days in Ourense. A spa town since Roman times. Ostensibly to give some injuries time to heel - but also to lie languorously in thermal pools. And - wow! - soak the ingrained dirt out of my feet. Dirty feet are the price paid for walking in sandals through mud and slush. Ourense also has some rather good confiterías. Which required my attention.

    Today I left Ourense and braved the constant rain and climbed out of the valley of the River Miño. A 19% slope for 2km (corrected from 5!). Then it was all soft paths and lush green forests. But still very very wet. A stop for coffee with Cesar - a retired lorry driver who offers pilgrims hot soup (much appreciated) and home made cakes.

    I am now ensconced in a little room with private bathroom - for €10. Too good to miss.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino 2018

    A monastery followed by - cold rain

    6 juni 2018, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today started with a tour of the Monastery of Oseira- a huge pile currently under restoration. From the outside it looks dark, dank and foreboding but the interior has a few beautiful surprises. My favourites were the lovely statute - the Virgen of the Milk (no surprise what she is doing) and the palm tree room - four wonderful slender twisted columns supporting the roof; full of movement. I don’t know the date of the room (the monastery was built in 1137 but it was enlarged and partly rebuilt following a fire in 1552). The room reminded me very strongly of Gaudí, who apparently visited and was impressed.

    Following a taxi ride back to the Camino it was a day of head down and trudge through rain, mud, cold and overhanging wet vegetation. When I hit the main road, up popped a bus with bus just arriving. When St James offers, I accept!    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino 2018

    Albariño at the fair

    7 juni 2018, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I am within 38km of Santiago, in deep Galicia, land of mystic woods, deep green valleys, legends, stories and Celtic music. And pulpo, and fiestas and fairs. Of which there is one tonight where I am staying, in Silleda. We shall eat pulpo and drink Albariño - glorious local white wine.

    So close to the end of my long walk. Below are assorted photos which show today - including some from a little jewel of a 10th century church. Always I pass beautiful vegetable gardens and especially in Galicia. Lots of “grelos”, a green vegetable from the brassica family used to make Caldo Gallega- vegetable soup. Breakfast in the truckies stop to start my day. And an advertising sign, just for Ian (who does not like to walk). I think he’ll be able to work out the meaning.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino 2018

    Santiago de Compostela

    11 juni 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Such an overwhelming mix of emotions as I first glimpse the spires of the cathedral through the mist. Joy, sorrow, relief. This was a hard camino - duro. I struggled. But it was very, very beautiful. The landscape, the flowers, the loveliest of cities, Sevilla, Mérida, Cáceres, Salamanca, Zamora. Such a journey.

    And the people. Those with whom I formed bonds of friendship and who I will see again, and those I met briefly but who showed this stranger great kindness. They touched my heart.

    Walking into Santiago on the Via de la Plata route is different to the entrance to many cities. No tramping through horrible industrial areas or endless suburbs. Instead it is a soft dirt path through farmland, then a typical Galician green lane alongside streams and waterfalls and suddenly you pop out with the view of the cathedral straight ahead. Wonderful.

    The whole of the last day of walking I found so beautiful. It is hard to believe Galicia was once (is?) the poorest province in Spain. Solid, well built, large houses, with late model cars in the drives, manicured gardens and well tended vegetable patches - all looking prosperous and well maintained. And forests and fields and - flowers.

    And so now after prayers at the sanctuary of St James, two days of reunions, fabulous seafood feasts, and far too much shopping, I start my journey home.

    Ulteía y sustraía.    Läs mer

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