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Jordan, Israel and Greece
  • Jo's journey
  • Jo's journey

Jordan, Israel and Greece

An open-ended adventure by Jo's journey Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 28, 2018
    Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    On the way!

    May 5, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Thought I would try my first post while I have an hour to kill and free Internet here at Sydney airport. Have enjoyed meeting up with some of the group and we will join the rest at Dubai. Favourably impressed with my first experience of Emirates. More to follow.Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    Getting nearer

    May 6, 2018 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Now at Dubai after a night of binge watching episodes of Call The Midwife. Patsy has successfully got the Christchurch contingent here and we are due to meet up with Mike and the Auckland lot before all flying on to Amman together in an hour or two.Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    The Dead Sea

    May 7, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    Happy to report that both sections of our group successfully found each other at Dubai and we flew on together to Amman yesterday. We were met there by Sam (actually Osama!) Who will be our guide for the few days we are in Jordan. He gave us lots of helpful info on Jordan during the hour or so bus ride to the Dead Sea Spa hotel where we stayed last night. Once settled, most of us took the opportunity to sample those buoyant waters. (Had hoped to provide pic at this stage but still working on getting it from my roommate's iPhone. Neither of us are wildly tech-savvy! )
    Those of you who who know our tour leader Mike will not be surprised to hear that he gathered us all together before dinner last night for an introductory meeting that involved not only quite a bit of guitar playing and song but the inauguration of the 'Wally of the day' award which I gather is to be a daily feature of our itinerary. (Glad you're not here, eh, FMW?)
    I could barely keep my eyes open by the time we had concluded our excellent dinner last night and was comatose by 8.30, which is why I am writing this at 4:15 am, now wide awake, rather than last night.
    Really do hope to get pix up before long but just grateful to be able to report that this penguin is a happy pilgrim thus far.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    From the Dead Sea to Petra

    May 7, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    A long, full and great day today but I feel like I am almost in sensory overload at its close. Before we set out this morning, Mike gathered us all in the hotel foyer to sing the blessing song (the one to the Edelweiss tune) to the staff and whoever else was around. People were videoing us and it felt a bit like one of those flash mobs you see on Facebook sometimes.

    Our first stop was Mt Nebo, where Moses got to see the land that he wouldn't actually enter. We looked at the same view but it was unfortunately rather hazy due to sandstorms. Mike had a couple of people read the relevant verses from Deuteronomy and then the guitar came out again for another song.

    From there to a lovely little museum nearby, La Storia, which had some beautiful tableaux of traditional Jordanian life and of some biblical scenes. There was a workshop attached where we got to see demonstrations of mosaic making.

    A very enjoyable lunch at a restaurant in Madaba (and yes, we sang the blessing song again at the end!) As well as a visit to St George's church, which has an ancient mosaic map of the holy land inlaid in the floor.

    Afternoon mostly taken up by the drive to Petra, during which
    Osama gave us all sorts of advice and instructions in preparation for our day there tomorrow. He wants us to head off soon after 7am to beat the crowds. (Reminded me a bit of Tongariro crossing in that regard. I gather it is likely to be crowded with other tours if we don't get going early.)

    Still haven't figured out my picture attaching problem here yet, so for the moment will be putting pix on Facebook.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    Petra

    May 9, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Well, the good news is that I am now able to upload photos at last! I took plenty today because Petra was such an amazing place and much bigger than I had realised.
    We had been asked to show up for an early (6am) breakfast today but somehow I had set my watch wrong and mistakenly showed up at 5 am, thinking it was an hour later. (When word got out, I only narrowly escaped getting the 'Wally of the day' award). Osama's plan to get us into Petra as early as possible was a wise one as it helped us avoid the larger influx of other tourists later on.
    The walk through the gorge to the city entrance was a little longer than I had imagined, although in fact was only about a kilometre or so, but the first sight of the Treasury building through the narrow dark rocks of the gorge was every bit as dramatic as all the publicity photos suggest.
    A highlight of the morning's tour for me was getting to meet Marguerite van Geldermalsen, the kiwi woman in Petra whose book (Married to a Bedouin) I had recently read. I bought a copy of the book at her shop and am keen to read it again now that I have more context for it.
    The structures of the city , both natural and man made are magnificent and I was pretty much in awe of all that we saw. I am only allowed to attach six pix here so hope the ones I choose give some new kind of sense of the place.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Frampton of Arabia? Maybe not...
    T. E. LawrenceTaking out the 'hangi'

    Wadi Rum

    May 9, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    A long day in the desert today! It was about two hours drive from Petra to Wadi Rum, where we were transferred into the back of some 4 wheel drive vehicles for the first stage of our trip across the desert. There was a brief stop to climb a sand dune and take in the views, then another break for a cup of spiced tea in a Bedouin tent. This was the heart of Lawrence of Arabia territory (makes me want to watch the film again) and Osama pointed out a carving of T. E. Lawrence's face that had been etched into the rocks decades ago.

    Shortly after the tea break we left the comfort of the 4 wheel drives for the more dubious comfort of camel backs. I was a bit apprehensive about this stage of the journey but it proved to be a lot of fun. The most challenging parts were hanging on when one's mount first rose to its feet, and again at the conclusion when it knelt to be discharged of its burden. Both movements involved a couple of significant lurches for the novice rider. The actual ride lasted about half an hour and ended at our lunch stop, where we were treated to a Bedouin version of a hangi, and were able to watch the food being taken out of the sand where it had been steam cooked (inside a metal drum, so free of sand grains!)

    It was a long drive on to Amman in the afternoon, mostly through more fairly barren country. We stopped at a restaurant in the evening where we were treated to an amazing meal which even I was unable to do justice to, given what we had been fed a few hours earlier. At the meal we were joined by a kiwi woman, whom some of us knew and who works with Syrian refugees in a town about an hour out of Amman. She came back to the hotel with us after the meal and we were able to hear a bit more about her work.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Baptism in the Jordan river
    Farewelling Osama and HusseinThe mount of Temptation, from JerichoChurch of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

    Farewell Jordan, hello Jerusalem

    May 10, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our last outing before leaving Jordan was a visit to the area where Jesus baptism by John the Baptist in the Jordan river is believed to have taken place. Osama took us to an area where just a few metres across the river (but in a different country!) Many people were either dipping themselves in the water, or actual baptisms were taking place. After one such baptism, among a group of Indian folk, Mike grabbed his guitar and yelled across that we would sing to them. So we belted 'how great thou art' across the river to their obvious pleasure and they then sang back to us. It was one of the day's lovelier moments.

    The day's saddest moment was saying goodbye to Osama who had been such a terrific guide but who wouldn't be accompanying us across the border. We gave some gifts to him and our driver Hussein before heading for the border. Getting out of Jordan and into Israel was a two stage procedure that seemed quite a rigmarole but I gather it was a lot less protracted than it might have been and our new guide, Ibrahim, was surprised to see us emerge from the arrivals terminal as early as we did.

    Because of this, there was time for a short, unscheduled stop in Jericho en route to Jerusalem. We reached our hotel in Jerusalem (in the old city, just inside Jaffa Gate) aroma 5pm and Mike proposed an exploratory pre-dinner walk just to get the feel of the place. We kept getting lost and redirected so it was an hour and a half before we were back at the Gloria Hotel, but it was certainly a great way to pick up the amazing vibe of the place while it was buzzing with people and activity.

    I went out for an early morning walk an hour or so ago and enjoyed the cooler and quieter side of the city. Grateful to have slept well last night as I was feeling a bit overtired and out of sorts by the end of the evening but feel much restored today. Interested to see what today will hold. Our new guide, Ibrahim (a Palestinian Christian from Bethlehem ) is a rather different personality from easy-going Osama, which we are finding a bit of an adjustment, but I am hopeful that Mike will be able to lighten him up a bit.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    At the western wall
    Locking the door of the church of the holy sepulchre

    Western Wall

    May 11, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Quite an amazing time last evening. A group of us went down to the western (wailing) wall around sundown. It was Friday evening, so the beginning of the Sabbath, which is apparently the one time of the week when there is real celebration there, and the whole place was filled with people and completely abuzz. Unfortunately I wasn't allowed to take pictures any nearer than the one below, but we went right down into the crowd and into the separate areas for women and men. The men's area was a sea of singing and dancing and general letting down of hair. The women's area was a little less boisterous, but still full of women reading the Hebrew scriptures and singing, praying, dancing. We all managed to get near enough to the wall to touch it but it was quite a press. Atmosphere quite electric. I gather they may have been more celebratory than usual just now as have been marking the 70th anniversary of Israel's nationhood.

    On the way back, we stopped at the church of the Holy Sepulchre and tried to get into the tomb area but queues were too long and it was getting near closing time. We waited a bit till 9pm to watch the locking of the doors.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Dung Gate
    5th station, where Simon of Cyrene took up Jesus cross8th station, where Jesus speaks to the women of Jerusalem

    Subterranean adventures and Via Dolorosa

    May 11, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    I feel like I have spent a good chunk of this morning underground! Ibrahim showed up at 8.30 and after giving us a bit of an introduction to the day, led us to the city of David archaeological park, where we had the opportunity to walk under the city. There was a short, dry option or a longer (530 meters) wet one. I opted for the latter which involved wading or walking through winding underground channels, mostly only 20cm deep, but occasionally mid--thigh, very narrow and often low enough that even a shortie like me needed to stoop most of the way. We were tracing our way through the tunnel built by Hezekiah in the 8th century BC, and I think he would be gratified to know it is still working.

    After reuniting with those who had chosen the dry feet option, we were taken on another underground tour and I am still a little hazy on what it was but I think I recall Ibrahim mentioning something about a sewerage system.

    We finished the morning tracing the stations of the Via Dolorosa but it was a bit crazy keeping up with Ibrahim through the crowd a and I think I might do that again by myself early tomorrow morning when it is quieter. He sets quite a pace and it is a hot day so we were all wilting a bit by 1pm and I am enjoying a bit of space and cool before we reconvene for the afternoon.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Garden tomb
    St George's CathedralInside St George's CathedralDamascus Gate

    Garden Tomb

    May 12, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This afternoon we walked to the Garden Tomb, about 20 minutes walk outside tho old city. Although I gather that the consensus now is that the actual site of the tomb is at the church of the holy sepulchre rather than the garden tomb, I preferred the simplicity of the latter. Even if it's not the authentic site, it gives more of an idea of the actual tomb. After we had had a short guided tour and looked at the tomb, we had a communion service in one of several large alcoves that seemed to be set up for such a purpose. (There are 6 ordained people in our group, so no shortage of potential celebrants!)

    Then, a walk up the road to look at St. George's Cathedral and now I am pleased to report that it is almost dinner time!    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    Via Dolorosa

    May 12, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Stand by, long-suffering friends, for an excess of posts today. It is only lunchtime and my capacity for taking things in is already feeling rather stretched. It was a lovely beginning to the day. I headed out at 6am and was glad to be joined by another of our group, Sheryll, as I wasn't overly confident I would find my way unaided to the Lion's Gate, from where I wanted to begin retracing the Via Dolorosa. Sheryll was keen on the same idea and with the combined resources of the map, stretching signs and one or two people we asked along the way, we got there.

    The streets were generally very quiet, but we found ourselves behind a group of pilgrims (South Korean, I think) doing the same route but, unlike us, carrying actual crosses. It was good to make our way around the stations at a more measured ace than yesterday and with less crush around us.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Olive trees at Gethsemane
    Inside the chapel housing the Virgin Mary's tombIn the garden of GethsemaneInside the chapel where Jesus wept over JerusalemView of the city from Mount of OlivesOldest olive tree in the garden.

    Mount of Olives to Gethsemane

    May 12, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After breakfast, Ibrahim took us to the Mount of Olives, from where we had some good views back towards the old city. We then made our way down a part of the path which has Jesus would have taken over Palm Sunday, stopping at the place where he is thought to have wept over Jerusalem, and where there is a small beautiful tear-shaped chapel commemorating that. We carried on, Mike leading us with the guitar singing 'All glory, laud and honour', until we reached the garden of Gethsemane at the foot of the hill, where we had nearly an hour to wander round by ourselves.

    The place was packed with people which made it a challenge getting into some of the various chapels and sites there. The main one was the church of all nations , (blessedly silent because there was a rule against talking in it) but very crowded because near the sanctuary was a slab of rock (purportedly one on which Jesus prayed) which people were queueing to touch and kiss.

    Another chapel housed the tomb of the Virgin Mary, and was equally full of pilgrims wanting to venerate her resting place. I didn't spend a lot of time there as it was a bit too ornate and full of embellishments, and I struggled to cope with the crowds.

    The garden itself was a small enclosed area of olive trees, one of which (the oldest one there) was enclosed with railings, I think to protect it from damage at the hands of too many eager pilgrims.

    A brief respite now back at our Olive Tree hotel and then we head to Bethlehem this afternoon.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Church of the angels
    Singing carols in the church of the angelsPortuguese folk singing to usSinging after the mealCeiling of church of the angels

    Bethlehem

    May 13, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    A long and mixed afternoon. We started at the shepherds' field, where we visited one of the caves and then the church of the angels, a small chapel with very good acoustics. Naturally Mike took advantage of the latter and had us all singing Christmas carols. Fortunately the other tourists present seemed delighted rather than irritated by this and many of them were joining in and/or videoing it on their phones. Once again it felt like a bit of a flash mob moment. A group of Brazilians were particularly charmed and responded by singing Silent Night to us in Portuguese. (Yesterday, I think Ibrahim got a bit fed up when he had to wait for Mike because another group of Brazilians had asked him to play Amazing Grace.)

    Next stop was the church of the Nativity which in many ways was the most frustrating part of the day for me. We queued for over an hour to get into the actual grotto (the place of Jesus birth), and towards the end it felt like it was shaping up to be another Hillsborough football stadium disaster as we neared the narrow entrance down into the grotto itself. No matter that we were in the holiest Christian site in the world, there was a decidedly unholy altercation developing as a group that had bypassed the queue tried to make their way in ahead of ours. When we did eventually get into the grotto, I confess to finding it a bit of an anticlimax and I think that was partially due to the tensions just referred to. After over an hour in the dark, crowded and stuffy church, it was also a relief to get out into the open air.

    From there we walked a short way up the road to a shop owned by a Palestinian Christian named Angela, who is a friend of Mikes. (For st C's readers, this is the shop where our beautiful nativity set came from.) We all did a bit of shopping there, and had a bit of a talk from Angela about life as a Palestinian.

    Two doors down from Angela's shop was St George's restaurant, where we were served a sumptuous and wonderful meal. I wonder if they might have been a bit too generous with the wine because the bus ride home was pretty raucous, but I think it might just be that I am getting into tired and grumpy mode again after another long and full day. I have been feeling very tempted to pass up on the trip to Masada tomorrow and just have a bit of space, but Ibrahim and others have told me that Masada is not to be missed and I do not expect to come this way again, so I think I will go, and will just aim to claim some introverted moments to myself on the drive down there and back, a good hour or so each way.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    View down over the ramp the Romans built to breach the walls
    Ibrahim explaining about the columbariumLooking from Herod's palace up to the top of the fortModel of the whole complex

    Masada

    May 14, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    So very glad I decided not to skip the trip to Masada today, it was a fascinating place with a moving and remarkable story. Huge, seemingly impregnable fortress high on the cliffs, where in 73 A.D, 960 Jews, who had held out for 7 months against the Romans, chose to slaughter each other and be free in death rather than submit to Roman forces once they realised that their citadel was about to be breached. A lot of the original fortifications are still there and some have been reconstructed. We had a short cable car ride to the site, and then Ibrahim gave us a good tour of the extensive area for an hour or two before we headed back down for lunch at the Visitors Centre down below.Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Lazarus'tomb
    Patsy reading the story of Lazarus inside the tombInside the tomb

    Bethany

    May 14, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    On the way back from Masada we stopped in Bethany to visit the tomb of Lazarus. It was a bit of a squash getting all 25 of us down into it, but we did it-, and even managed a song and a reading while there.

    On the way home, Ibrahim gave us instructions about tomorrow, as this is our last night in Jerusalem. He is concerned that we should get away as early as possible, because there are celebrations planned to mark the reopening of the American Embassy in the city and it could mean a lot of congestion. As we drove back into the city, people were already gathering in preparation and there was more security in evidence.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    Last night in Jerusalem

    May 14, 2018 in Palestine ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This evening has been a lovely end to our few days in Jerusalem. Several of us intended to return to the church of the holy sepulchre tonight, hoping to be able to have a moment or two in the tomb, if the queues were not too long. As it happened the main route there was blocked off because of the celebrations. Patsy led us on a more circuitous route through the back streets and when we reached the church, it was (unusually!) Almost empty of visitors, no doubt because of the blocked road here within the old city, and congestion throughout the rest of the city. As a result, we were not only able to enter the tomb after only a short wait, but we could also explore other parts of the church free from the crowds that have been here most other times we have come. Right at the end of our visit we happened on a small chapel where a quartet were singing sacred music a capella, which provided a beautiful finale to the visit.

    When we got back to the hotel, Mike led a short but lovely communion service in a room on the rooftop (wine from the hotel bar, pita bread saved from dinner!)

    It is an interesting night to be here. The whole city seems to be electric with celebration in preparation for tomorrow's embassy opening. (I hope we will not be delayed getting out of it.)    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Reading at the postulated site of Paul's trialPart of bridge tower from time of crusadersReplica of stone with inscription about Pilate

    Caesarea

    May 15, 2018 in Israel ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We had a slightly earlier than usual start today, but it was good to get out of the city with the nationalistic fervour increasing so much there. It was about 2 hours drive to Caesarea and our first taste of the Mediterranean. The carpark looked like a world convention of tour buses when we arrived - maybe all the tourists in the country were wanting to avoid Jerusalem today! Ibrahim had booked us in to watch a short film on the history of the town and while we waited for that to be ready, he showed us the adjacent amphitheatre. Mike was keen to text the acoustics so grabbed his guitar and we sang our NZ party piece (Pokarekare ana) to a class of Israeli schoolchildren and their teacher, who seemed to enjoy it. (I confess that there are days when I feel like I am touring with the Von Trapp family singers rather than being on a holy land pilgrimage!)

    After the film, Ibrahim gave us a tour of the excavations, pointing out a site where it is thought that Paul probably one in defence at his trial (we read the relevant episode aloud at that point), the hippodrome, remains of the Crusader city etc. There was a replica of a stone found there with an inscription on it that is the only evidence outside the Bible for the existence of Pontius Pilate.

    And we enjoyed a bit of time to dip our toes in the blue Mediterranean. Alongside the historical ruins, there were some restaurants and cafes and the place generally seemed to be a pleasant seaside resort.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Front of Basilica of the Annunciation
    Scene from inside the basilicaChurch of the well of MaryThe spring inside the churchAround the entrance to the basilicaThe unit where Dale and I are staying at the kibbutz

    Nazareth

    May 15, 2018 in Israel ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After Caesarea, we seemed to be well behind schedule, so a couple of things that had been on the agenda (Mt Carmel and the Bahai Gardens) turned into drive-by-and-look-out-the-bus -window events instead. The traffic was insane coming into Nazareth, which put us back even further, but we eventually got parked and unloaded (I am super impressed at the way so many of these huge tour buses negotiate steep and narrow streets) and then found some lunch before visiting the Basilica of the Annunciation where the angel Gabriel is believed to have appeared to Mary. I am a bit in danger of getting 'churched out' after the last few days but this basilica really was beautiful, large and spacious and not over ornate. Like the church at Gethsemane, there was a rule of silence inside it which was lovely.

    Before leaving Nazareth, Ibrahim also took us to the church of the well of Mary, which is built over a natural spring, where Mary would almost certainly have regularly come to collect water, as it was the only such spring in Nazareth. The spring was incorporated into one end of the church, and there was even a tap where we could access the water. The church itself is a Greek Orthodox one and a bit less to my taste because of the tendency to more ornate embellishments.

    From there it was another hour and a half to the kibbutz run hotel where we are staying the next three nights, on the shore of Lake Galilee. This is quite different from our other hotels, it is a huge complex with lots of separate units and a large common dining room in a separate building for breakfast and dinner. Dinner was an extensive buffet, served cafeteria style, and there seemed to be masses of people staying here. We gathered for a bit after dinner to talk about tomorrow's programme, sing a few songs and do the Wally award. Tomorrow looks quite full and some are choosing not to do all that's on offer. I sense that we are all getting a bit tired now, so I am glad we are at least staying in the same accommodation for three nights.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Mount of Beatitudes
    Singing inside church of multiplicationFlags flying on the boatJo on the Sea of GalileeView from the boat

    Galilee Day 1

    May 16, 2018 in Israel ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    Really lovely day today. Started out with a visit to the Mount of Beatitudes, where there was, as ever, a chapel, surrounded by beautiful, well-tended gardens. (Run by the Franciscans, who seem to be good at simplicity and garden care.) After having a look around, we found a place in the garden where we read the Beatitudes aloud, facing lake Galilee. (No doubt Mike had us singing something too, but I have already forgotten exactly what! )

    From there a short distance to the church has of multipllication, where the feeding of the 5000 is commemorated. A fairly brief visit, but long enough to read the story and explore the church a bit. As I may have already said earlier, I am getting a bit punch drunk on churches, since there seems to be at least one on every site that can claim any link to the gospel story. Some of them are real gems, though. I didn't find this one especially memorable.

    The first major highlight of the day for me was our boat ride on the sea of Galilee. Almost as soon as we were in motion, they raised the NZ flag and played a recording of the national anthem, to which we all sang lustily along. (The two American couples that were also on our boat seemed to cope OK with that.) I presume that all the boats must have a good supply of flags and anthems at the ready for whatever group comprises the majority on any particular voyage.

    At the turn around point, Mike had them stop the boat, and we had a reading of the story of Jesus calming the storm, followed by 5 minutes of silence. On the way back in, one of the crew gave a demonstration of putting out the nets as it would have been do everything in Jesus time. Then they put on some music and got us all doing some Jewish dancing on the deck (I think you would have enjoyed that part, F! ) Back on land, we spent a bit of time at the Jesus boat Museum, where they had a replica of a 2000 year old fishing boat that was discovered in the bottom of the lake in 1986.

    The second major highlight of the day was Capernaum and because I am only allowed 6 photos per 'footprint' (not being a premium member of Find Penguins), I am going to give it a post of its own.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Ruins of homes in Capernaum
    The synagogue in CapernaumThe church built over Peter's houseDale inside the churchAltar in the church

    Capernaum

    May 16, 2018 in Israel ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    I found the visit to Capernaum really interesting because we were on the site of what became Jesus' hometown (after he was rejected from Nazareth.) Unlike places like Nazareth and Bethlehem, it's no longer a living settlement, but there are still ruins in existence of homes, and of the local synagogue, that remain from Jesus' time.

    There is a remarkable, modern, fish-shaped church that is built directly over what is believed to be the remains of Peter's house, where Jesus healed his mother-in-law. (Some in our group felt that the Italian architect of this 1990 church should have been asked to submit a proposal for a new Christchurch cathedral! )

    Among the ruins of houses are examples of the steps that led up to roofs, of the sort that would have been used by the men who lowered their paralysed friend through the roof.

    We left Capernaum about 1.30, and I elected to return to the kibbutz rather than carry on with the afternoon programme. Fear of missing out was today conquered by the prospect of a quiet afternoon to catch up on laundry, journal etc and explore the kibbutz area a bit more. The day had already been so worthwhile that I thought it better to quit while I am ahead rather than arrive back in the early evening overtired and out of sorts. A few of us have stayed back this afternoon. The rest of the group were to be visiting a women's fair trade cooperative in Cana, as well as having a renewal of wedding vows for the couples present. They will also be spending time in the home of some local Arab Christians, and hearing about their lives, which I am a bit sorry to be missing. But I am not regretting the decision to take these hours to catch up with myself amidst a generally rather fast-paced programme.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Actually it wasn't a trial at all, but quite a pleasant trail!
    Churton Park women with their vicar's friendarched gate at Dan from 1750 BCCandlestick maker in ZafetArtists' quarter in Zafet

    Galilee Day 2

    May 17, 2018 in Israel ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Quite a different sort of day today. Ibrahim took us up into the Golan heights in the far north, close to the border with Syrian. We went first to Banias (=Caesarea Philippi where Peter made his famous declaration about Jesus) . This is the site of one of the sources of the Jordan river, and it was the first time I had seen water flowing in such quantities since we arrived here . There was a huge cliff backdrop and the remains of various temples and shrines to Pan and other pagan gods.

    We carried on a few minutes down the road to Tel Dan, where again it was a treat to find plenty of fast-flowing water and lots if greenery. Ibrahim led us on a short walk in the bush (if not quite like NZ bush, at least the closest thing to it so far encountered!) We stopped at a pool somewhere in the middle and met a friendly group of Bermudans. Three of our number, who hail from Churton Park Anglican in Wellington got talking to their leader and mentioned that their new vicar is from Bermuda. When they mentioned the name he became very excited as it turned out that he and some of his group knew the man in question. There were photos taken and quite a buzz among the Bermudans (less so among the kiwis who are more used to being able to find a common connection no matter what part of the world we run into each other!) At the end of our walk we saw some pretty impressive archaeological remains, including an arched gate that was nearly 4000 years old.

    From there to town called Zafet (sp?), apparently the highest city in the holy land. It had an artists' quarter which we spent a pleasant hour or two exploring. Lots of little artisan shops selling locally made jewellery, ceramics, glassware paintings, etc. Many of us returned to the bus a bit less encumbered with cash. Prices were not unreasonable and I bought a couple of pieces of jewellery there.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler

    Last night in Israel

    May 17, 2018 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I had been wanting to have a swim in the sea of Galilee before we left these parts, and we were back from yesterday's excursion plenty of time for a late afternoon dip. Patsy and I were both somewhat intrigued by the sign at the beach (see attached pic) and wondered if it meant we should come back at a time when the 'rescuers' were not there. Happily, neither of us needed rescuing. One of the rescuers did start yelling at her when she went beyond the line of buoys near the shore but she just called back 'no speak english' and kept going. Mike had offered a 'reaffirmation of baptismal vows' (not a re baptism, in case anyone's heresy meter is beeping at this point!) in the lake at 5, which several of us took part in.

    At 7 pm we headed to a nearby restaurant for our last dinner in Israel. A very nice meal - the usual selection of salads and pita bread, followed by some local fish. Once back at the kibbutz, we had booked a meeting room for a final shindig, since several of our group are not continuing on to Greece today, so this was our last gathering as a big group. We had some thank you gifts for our bus driver and for Ibrahim, our guide, and a bit of a show and tell session re things we had enjoyed/appreciated/purchased during our time here.

    Woke up early enough this morning to get back down to the beach to try and get some pix of the sun rising over the lake. We have a free morning today, and then will get back on the bus about noon for the 2 hours drive to Tel Aviv for our onward flight to Athens this evening. The are forecasting temperatures in the forties today, and even now at 9.30am it is already very hot, so being on an air-conditioned bus for a couple of hours is probably as good an activity as any.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    View from breakfast room
    Another view from breakfastHotel lobbyMore hotel lobbyAnd more hotel lobby (bigger than my entire house)Slumming it in Athens

    Arrival in Greece

    May 18, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Getting through Tel Aviv airport yesterday was a long and rather wearying process, made more complex by the fact that there 19 of us trying to vaguely hang together through the check in and security procedures. When we were all nearly through, it then appeared that Mike had lost his boarding pass, although it later turned out that amidst the business of sorting out his overweight baggage, he had somehow never been given one, so that meant some backtracking and extra hassle for him and Patsy. Quite a relief when we all were finally gathered at the departure gate.
    (Incidentally, random fact about Tel Aviv airport that I quite liked - the toilets had a sort of treadle flush mechanism, that seemed sensible and hygienic. Have never seen that before.)

     The flight to Athens was a bit delayed too, so it was around 11pm when the tired pilgrims finally landed in Greece. Happily, our Greek tour liaison, Christina, was there to meet us, and the luggage didn't take much time to come through, so we were on the road before too long. The airport is 35 km from the city, so it still made for a nearly midnight arrival at the Royal Olympic Hotel. Room keys were rapidly distributed, Mike found his guitar and we made our weary way to the lifts to the strains of 'The day though gavest, Lord, has ended' which he likes to have us sing somewhere at the close of most days. I was very grateful that it had ended and that there was a very comfortable bed awaiting me!
    Now it is early on Friday morning, and we are to be having a tour of Athens starting at 9am.

    This feels like the grandest hotel we have stayed in so far so I am quite enjoying pretending I am a Greek princess and soaking it all up.    Read more

  • Jo's journeyJordan, Israel and GreeceTraveler
    Jo on Mars Hill
    Singing with the ArgentiniansIn the Acropolis MuseumParthenonTheatre of DionysiusLooking from Acropolis across to Mars Hill

    Athens

    May 19, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This morning, we had a tour of the Acropolis by our new guide, Andronikos. I had been able to see the Parthenon from my breakfast table, but because we went in the bus , I hadn't realised how close it was to our hotel, till I went out for a walk on my own this afternoon. Andronikos has a degree in history and an obvious love for his country and is proving a great guide thus far. From the Acropolis he look us across the road to Mars Hill, where Paul preached his famous sermon. Before we went up there ourselves, Mike had us read the sermon aloud from Acts 17. Up on top he pulled out his guitar and we were back into the travelling minstrels routine again. (This time it was 'Put your hand in the hand of the man who stilled the waters'). As is often (but not universally!) the case, we got a great reception from the other tour group up there, who were soon clapping along with us. They turned out to be from Argentina, so Mike persuaded them to sing to us in Spanish, which they did. (Music has proved to be a wonderful cross-cultural and cross-linguistic unifier on several occasions so far during this trip.) We parted with a few closing pleasantries about the All Blacks and 'Los Pumas'.

    Andro then took us to the Acropolis Museum nearby, a huge, relatively new building which exclusively houses relics from the Acropolis site. There was far too much to see in the hour we had there, so he took us to a few exhibits and filled them out with background information, which was really helpful and made the visit much more worthwhile than if we had been wandering around on our own, which I think would have been a bit overwhelming.

    We were back at the hotel by three, and it has been good to have the rest of the afternoon free. I took the opportunity for a bit of exploration by myself down a long pedestrian plaza which runs alongside the periphery of the areopagus and acropolis precincts. There was lots of little souvenir and jewellery and craft stalls to browse all along the way.

    Tonight we are eating at a nearby restaurant, and tomorrow we head to Corinth. I am glad that we will have another free day in Athens later on as I think there is plenty more to explore.

    (Only fault I can find with this otherwise lovely hotel is that it doesn't have tea-making facilities in the rooms. Probably not designed with kiwis in mind as target patrons.)    Read more

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