• Kim and Alex
  • Kim and Alex

A semi-serious adventure

Pengembaraan 186hari oleh Kim and Baca lagi
  • Trek America - Grand Canyon

    26 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today we had the opportunity to explore the Grand Canyon by taking one of the trails down into the canyon itself. There are many signs warning of the risks involved due to the changes in altitude and increased temperature as you descend (it can be as much as 30C hotter at the base of the canyon than it is at the rim). This has led to people dying as they are unable to ascend back out of the canyon and help cannot get to them quick enough. Signs warn against attempting to travel down to the Colorado river at the base of the canyon and attempting to return to the rim in the same day, however we've heard people still attempt to do this. Emily advised that the Grand Canyon National Park is the country's most dangerous with deaths numbering in the hundreds each year due to these risks as well as people getting too close to the edge...

    We chose to descend at the South Kaibab Trail, originally honed out of the rock with pick and explosives by workers in the 1920s. The trail is just wide enough for two people to travel side by side or allow mules through to carry goods between the base and the rim. The trail is a 6 mile round-trip iand descends a total of over 2000 feet (the rim to base is nearly 4800 feet) There are three stages to the trail, Ooh Aah Point, Cedar Ridge and Skeleton Point.

    When we began our descent from the rim, along steep switchback trails, we had our jackets as despite the sun and bright blue sky, the breeze and canyon's shadows kept the temperature cool. Acknowledging the risks we took plenty of water and went slowly, prepared to turn back at any point if needed. The enormity of the canyon's drop at the side of the trail was knee-buckling (for Alex at least) to view but this was a mental battle and we pushed on with the physical task ahead. We reached Ooh Aah Point and decided to continue on to Cedar Point. It was here that the geology changed from yellowy limestone to a rich copper of sandstone, reminiscent of that we had experience in Arches National Park and Monument Valley. The trail narrowed here and returned to switching back and forth as we descended further still into the canyon. As well as moving down, we were also moving further out into the canyon as we approached Cedar Ridge. Drawing us away from the cliff face of the rim, we became exposed to the sun, which began to beat against us and quickly our jackets were removed.

    We rested at Cedar Ridge, which offered us a near 300 degree view of the canyon. Looking back up we could see just how far we had come but knew that the hardest part, the ascent back out, was yet to come. We sat resting and replenished with water and food (even when descending, at such altitude and with such heat, it was still crucial to do this). We walked out to the very edge of the ridge to take in the views before contemplating whether to continue on to the end of the trail, Skeleton Point. Our fellow Trekkers had all turned back at Cedar Ridge and it was appealing to try and achieve the full trail. However the sun and our depleting supplies of water were foreboding a very difficult and possibly dangerous climb so we decided, sensibly, to return to the rim. Quickly we realised how sensible our decision had been as the heat, altitude and steep climb took their toll on our bodies. Nevertheless we kept a steady pace and after a brief rest at Ooh Aah Point we returned to the rim in just under an hour. The round-trip to Cedar Ride was 3 miles and we descended just over 1000 feet.

    Overlooking the canyon and using our camera lens we could make out specks of people moving to and from Cedar Ridge whilst more people near us were contemplating the descent themselves.

    We walked along the rim and attended a talk by one of the ranger guides on how the canyon was formed. In short - the canyon was originally formed when the Colorado plateau was pushed up through the earth's surface when the plates that cover the earth's surface collided billions of years ago. This also created the Rockies mountain range from where the Colorado river flowed and began to break its waters against the edge of the plateau. Over millions of years the river steadily flowed through the plateau creating many tributaries along the way. Again, over millions of years, the force of the flowing water caused the limestone and sandstone (two stones very susceptible to water erosion) to break off and up, making the river bed deeper and wider, eventually creating the canyon you see today. The Colorado river still flows furiously at the base of the canyon and at certain points on the rim it can be seen with the distance disguising it as a slow trickle.

    We returned to camp happy with the success of our hike as well as the knowledge that tonight was our last night under canvas and tomorrow we were heading to Las Vegas.
    Baca lagi

  • Trek America - Grand Canyon to Las Vegas

    27 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    It was a long hot drive out of Arizona and into Nevada for our destination, Las Vegas. However we sought temporary refuge by stopping at Delgadillo's Snow Cap, an American diner on what, before the interstate highway, was 'the mother road' through the U.S. - Route 66. Full of memorabilia from the 1950s on, including cars, music and photographs, this diner was originally set up the father of the family who now continue to run it. Forget McDonalds, Starbucks and other super chains, this is where it's at. We ordered classic hamburgers and Kim a butterscotch shake to eat them on the shaded patio as motorcycle gangs thundered down the simmering road. As if by some divine intervention, Free's 'Alright Now' came on over the radio and for 5 minutes the world felt perfect.

    It was then back in the van to push onto Las Vegas. Time seemed to stand still in anticipation but we finally arrived hot and tired at our hotel, The Golden Nugget. However it wasn't anything a shower and some beers (we took a large cooler up to our rooms) couldn't sort out.

    The best way we can describe Las Vegas is that it is a huge theme park where anything appears possible, but everything will cost you something. We sat in 40C heat by the hotel pool with its flume slide that runs through a shark tank. After dinner we watched a display projected from a tunnel of screens set above Fremont Street before taking a 'party bus' (think limo interior but with higher ceilings), complete with lap dancing pole and an array of alcohol, down the Strip to watch the water fountains at the Bellagio and the town lit up. We drank and danced in the balmy neon night before crashing to sleep in our comfy beds by early morning.
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  • Trek America - Las Vegas

    28 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Fortunately it was not 'The Hangover' for either of us when we stirred in our hotel room - no tigers, Mike Tyson or a fat Jesus. Alex was bouncing and ready to go by 7:00am whilst it took Kim a little longer but soon enough we were on The Strip under the blistering Nevada heat. We can't quite get over the contrast with our surroundings and climate from a week or so ago.

    We took a bus down to one end of The Strip and began to walk back North through a variety of hotels/casinos, each with their own themes. Through the jungle of Mandalay Bay, the towering pyramid of the Luxor, the ramparts of The Excalibur, the golden lion of the MGM Grand as well as the facades of New York New York, Paris and the Venetian. We managed to win $4 playing slots along the way only to lose it again. We watched as all walks of life flowed through the flashing and ringing floors of the casinos, seemingly gravitated like moths to a flame. Street hawkers to giant LED signs were advertising what appeared to be the sale of the century. Show tickets, night club entry, food, photographs and an assortment of tat. You name it, you could buy it for a price.

    By mid-afternoon we had retreated back to our hotel pool for a few hours, cooling off in the pool and riding the shark tank flume. We all met in the lobby for dinner but not before the safe in our room stopped working with all our money, passports and Alex's cards in it. A tense 45 minute wait saw security and maintenance reopen it for us and then we were on our way. We went to Rollin' Smoke Barbecue where we ate giant plates of barbecued and fried goodness before Kim ate an enormous slice of cake from the Cheesecake Factory in Caesar's Palace. As we made our way back to the hotel, a LED clock told us that it was still 32C at 10:00pm. Heat and food exhaustion took us to sleep.
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  • Trek America - Las Vegas to Los Angeles

    29 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    All good things must come to an end and as it was we departed from Las Vegas for our final destination on our Trek America tour, Los Angeles.

    We went to bed around midnight but some of our group went back out to The Strip, not returning until 4:00am before getting up early for the final leg of our journey. Dark sun glasses and fragile looks accompanied them before the van rocked them to sleep.

    It was a reflective drive down through California as we contemplated all that we had done in the space of just 2 weeks. We have travelled North to South across Western USA, a total of 2650 miles in a arch through 9 States (Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, Nevada and California). We've hiked up peaks, down canyons, rafted on white water and slept under the stars from the snowy mountains of Yellowstone to the blistering heat of Las Vegas.

    It has been a great group with a brilliant leader in Emily. We felt sad to leave them for our hostel, everything suddenly feeling very quiet with it only being the two of us again after two weeks with 9 other people. We wish our fellow Trekkers and Emily the very best in their future travels and hope that maybe someday and by someway our paths cross again.
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  • Los Angeles

    30 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We planned that our first day after Trek America would be a 'rest day' thinking that we would need it. However after spending most of yesterday sitting in a van from Las Vegas to Los Angeles we felt restless and wanted to get out in the California sunshine. With our hostel situated in Hollywood we are well placed for views of the Hollywood sign as well as getting to the Griffith Observatory, both situated high on the hills of Griffith Park. Our hostel had information on three hike routes of varying difficulty and we chose the moderate climb. However even this started with an ascent of 600 feet over the first mile of the trail. Furthermore it was a two mile walk from our hostel to the trailhead. As said, we felt restless...

    We arrived at the trailhead in good time, leaving paved streets for sandy tracks which quickly rose above nearby houses. Being Saturday morning there were a number of families, dog walkers and hikers out on the trail, there were even groups of horse riders whose shit stank in the rising heat (the horses' not the riders at least). With the city below us we moved up and around ridge lines of hardy thorny shrub.

    When we reached the junction with the Hollyridge Trail (the first and more gentle ascent) we thought we were getting close, however as we moved closer to the Hollywood sign we could see the trail continue to rise and switchback across the hills. Midday was closing in and the trail simmered in the 26C degree heat. We would approach a blind bend in the trail with only bright blue sky visible over the lip. Approaching, we were poised to turn the corner and see something to indicate that we were closer to our goal. Yet we only found another steep rise to another blind bend. We trudged on, determined to get to the top and eventually we did. To our surprise we found that we had actually risen above the sign and made it to the peak itself. We sat under some scant shade to greedily drink from our water bottles before making the descent. From our position we could see Los Angeles stretch out to the horizon in all directions, however heat and air pollution obscured much of this.

    We could see in the distance, across the ridge lines, The Griffith Observatory, built in 1933 to observe stars in the night sky but made famous by stars of other kind from its use as a location in films including 'Rebel Without A Cause' and 'The Terminator', leading it to become an emblem of the city.

    Whilst at the observatory we managed to meet with Matti from Trek America, who is staying in Santa Monica before he begins his surf school tomorrow. Matti has been a very good friend on our trip so it was brilliant to see him as we toured the observatory with its exhibits on space. However it was also bitter sweet because it involved a further goodbye. We really hope Matti has a great time at surf school and that we are able to keep in touch.

    By the time we returned to the hostel it was after 6:00pm, having hiked a total of 11-12 miles. We arrived back proud but exhausted. So much for a 'rest day'!
    Baca lagi

  • Los Angeles

    31 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Thick cloud kept the beating sun at bay this morning as we made our way by bus down through Los Angeles to Venice Beach and the Santa Monica Pier. After Matti’s difficulties with getting to meet us at The Griffith Observatory from Santa Monica we were apprehensive as to how long the journey was going to take. Google told us that it would be 1 hour 15 minutes but Los Angeles’ reputation for being a sprawling mess of traffic made us pessimistic about this. Nevertheless we were wrong as it took us this time both on the way there and on the way back. We think we were more fortunate by travelling on a Sunday as traffic appeared to be light.

    Venice Beach is an eclectic mix of sub-cultures, skaters, artists and body builders rub shoulders with cyclists, tattoo artists and dog walkers. Graffiti and murals adorn buildings and palm trees whilst dance and hip-hop music blasted from beach front shops selling souvenirs, art and medical marijuana evaluations (it is legal for medicinal purposes here). We enjoyed trying out the variety of equipment at Muscle Beach and watching groups playing basque pelota, basketball and tennis. Yet walking past many of the beachfront shops you got the sense of Venice Beach being somewhat grimy (perhaps this is part of its appeal?), selling an idea of ‘cool’ to tourists when it’s really just tat. As we walked past a building advertised a $5 ‘Freak Show’ Kim said ‘No thanks, we don’t need to pay for a freak show, we can see enough of them walking along here’. To put this into some context, there was a man and his dog lying under a parasol with the advert ‘the world’s laziest dog’. The dog was lying on its back, legs akimbo, wearing a G-string with dollar bills stuffed in it. Case closed.

    Moving along the beachfront toward the Santa Monica pier, we left the shops behind and the sun began to break through the clouds to coat our shoulders in a glowing warmth. We past a field of volleyball courts as a poor man’s Father Christmas reacted to Alex’s AC-DC t-shirt by shouting lyrics at him. Feet, bicycles, skates and Segways moved along the designated pathways before we stopped to eat strawberries in front of the pier. Athletes trained on tightropes and gymnastic rings at the site of the original Muscle Beach formed with the rise in popularity of beach ‘fun’ and exercise in the 1930s. We walked up and along pier’s weathered timbers with its fun fair of Ferris wheel and rollercoaster rising in front of us. We looked back along the railings at the beach with its iconic lifeguard huts (Baywatch theme playing in our heads) and found the sign that marks the end of Route 66.

    Catching our buses back up to Hollywood, the sun fully broke free from its cloud prison. The temperature rose as it hit the concrete jungle around us but we were back in the oasis of our hotel before it could take hold of us.
    Baca lagi

  • There be signs...

    31 Mei 2015, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Here are some of the signs that have caught our eyes along our journey through the USA

    One that we didn't manage to get a picture of but remains in our memory -

    'Don't park your car here. If you do it's number plates and wheels will be removed'.

    Now that's a warning.

    Also here is another playlist of music that kept Alex going on the long plane, train and automobile trips that have made up our journey across the USA (http://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyhas…) -

    Beastie Boys - No Sleep Till Brooklyn
    Big Country - In A Big Country
    Creedence Clearwater Revival - Fortunate Son
    Jimmy Reed - Big Lights, Big City
    Nirvana - Lounge Act
    Canned Heat - On The Road Again
    The Who - Baby O'Riley
    Johnny Cash - Jackson
    The Blue Stones - Rolling With The Punches
    Lynyrd Skynyrd - Free Bird
    Johnnie Allan - Promised Land
    Muddy Waters - Hoochie Coochie Man
    The Beach Boys - Surfin' USA
    Red Hot Chilli Peppers - Californication
    Baca lagi

  • Los Angeles to Nadi, Fiji

    1 Jun 2015, Fiji ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We spent our last day in Los Angeles as well as the USA taking a picnic to the nearby Wattles Garden Park, which was once part of the Wattles Mansion estate, built by architects in the early 20th century.

    The sun arched over the palms trees that line the park's lawn whilst dog walkers and hikers past through, the latter on their way to the adjacent Runyon Canyon Park. We sat and watched this from our vantage point at the back of the park's sloping lawn. Reflecting on our time in the USA it felt like we had been in the country for a long time because of the amount we had done, seen and travelled. Yet at the same time it felt as if it had gone by quickly. However much we looked back over our fond memories from the last month, we were also very excited about the next part of our adventure, New Zealand.

    We returned to our hostel for a shower before taking a shuttle bus down to LAX. Our 11 hour flight to Nadi, Fiji, where we'd connect for our flight to New Zealand, departed Los Angeles at 11:30pm on the 1st June. However we would cross time zones and crucially the 'date line', which meant that we wouldn't actually arrive in Nadi until 5:50am on the 3rd June. We would then have a 3 hour stop over in Nadi before a further 3 hour flight to our destination Auckland, New Zealand. This made our eventual arrival time in Auckland, 11:45am on 3rd June. Technically 36 hours after we started...

    We managed to catch some fitful sleep on the flight to Nadi but we were still dead on our feet once we arrived. Fijians in colourful shirts played traditional music as we filed off the plane and out of our arrival gate. However even they seemed tired after a couple of songs, perhaps sensing a difficult crowd at that time of day. We struggled to stay awake but managed to board our second flight to Auckland in bright morning sunshine, which seemed to slightly lift the heavy humidity as well as our fatigue...
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  • Nadi, Fiji to Auckland, New Zealand

    3 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    ...Our flight to Auckland went well until landing, when blustering winds caused our descent to feel like a theme park ride and our stomachs to churn. Once back on steady ground we navigated our way through New Zealand's 'bio security' that causes you (rightly) to be hyper-vigilant about any food/animal/plant products you might be bringing in. Even with our vigilance we still received the attention of sniffer dogs but as far as immigration officers go, those at Auckland airport seemed a friendly bunch and quickly we were on our way into Auckland.

    Our hostel is a restored colonial villa named after the wide verandas that encompass its white timber frame, which we saw from afar on our approach. Our long journey had left us weary but a shower and some lunch gave us enough energy to get some much needed laundry and food shopping done.

    Gone is the balmy sunshine of Los Angeles, changed for the autumn rain of Auckland that lashed, like water thrown from a bucket, against the verandah outside our bedroom window. Whilst we gave each other a 'what have we done?' look, we have known and prepared for travelling through New Zealand's winter months. Why not travel during the summer you might ask? If we had then we would have eventually had to experience colder climes elsewhere.

    We saw out the rain from the warm amber glow of our room with the smell of clean laundry around us. Night quickly descended (sunset is 5:30pm) and by 8:00pm Alex could not remain awake any longer. We submitted to sleep, hoping that our bodies would not try to wake at some ungodly hour, thinking it was lunchtime in some other part of the world.
    Baca lagi

  • Auckland

    4 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The steady patter of rain greeted us as we leisurely rose from our bed. Fortunately jet-lag had not caused us to wake in the middle of the night but we still woke early. The sun doesn't rise until 7:30am so the crack of light from our curtains was still only a dim beam pushing its way into our bedroom.

    Despite previously changing our minds on the subject, we were certain that today we would 'rest'. After breakfast we wandered into Auckland along Queens Street, which at first descended steeply before levelling out into the city centre and toward the harbour. The day felt like a warm wet October with shades of red and gold falling from trees and people walking by huddled into jackets and umbrellas. Apparently the weather is cold for Aucklanders but after experiencing camping in Yellowstone we didn't feel it too badly (Alex was in a t-shirt).

    We headed to the offices of Kiwi Experience, the company that we will be touring New Zealand with, to finalise our booking and clarify some questions. The young woman we spoke to, who wore a scarf in her heated office to keep warm, was very helpful and we came away feeling very excited about the first leg of our trip up to Paihia and the Bay of Islands, which starts on Saturday.

    We strolled around the city, gaining our bearings as much watching those around us. Although sleep had helped we still felt stretched out and it wasn't long before we returned to the hostel. We ate bright pink salmon, locally sourced and smelling of the sea, with fresh vegetables, in the hostel's spacious kitchen. The steam off the plates rising to our faces. Others were eating cheese on toast and pot noodles but the fresh food was what we needed. The rain continued and darkness had fallen as we returned to our room, fighting back sleep for as long as we could, to bring ourselves in line with our new time zone.
    Baca lagi

  • Auckland

    5 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Feeling like we might be turning the jet-lag curve, we decided to climb Mount Eden after breakfast.

    Mount Eden or Maungawha is the highest peak within Auckland city's volcanic field, which comprises of approximately 50 individual volcanoes. Mount Eden rises up over its urban surroundings at nearly 200 metres with a 50 metre crater at its summit. Learning that it offered great 360-degree views of the city and surrounding country we decided we had to climb up to take a look for ourselves.

    At the risk of sounding arrogant, the climb up Mount Eden did not appear to be as arduous as our previous hikes up to the Hollywood sign or Bunsen Peak at Yellowstone NP for example. However we are breath was still laboured when we reached the summit. The land fell away on both sides, on one back down to the city, on the other down into the bowl of the summit's crater. The dormancy of the volcano had allowed grass to cover its surface all the way down to the crater's bottom. Signs warned against attempts to climb down into the crater but even so it appeared it would be a challenge to climb back out if you did descend into it. Seeing tiny people and vehicles on the opposite edge of the crater gave greater perceptive on its size and scale.

    The rains of yesterday had ebbed away leaving bright warm sunshine to kiss our faces as we circumnavigated the crater's edge. Blue sky matched the colour of the water in the bay, which glistened as the sun turned above. Auckland's landmarks, the Space Needle, the Harbour Bridge, Eden Park and more were all visible from our vantage point, standing out to not let us forget where we were. As we rounded the crater and our perspective changed, the Space Needle appeared to merge with the trees on the mount as if it too was part of them. We ate sandwiches in the sun before descending back down into Auckland, just in time as the rain returned.

    We spent the afternoon planning the next few days of our trip, calculating how to make the most of our budget. Similar to Trek America, Kiwi Experience offers the opportunity to do additional activities so we're so trying to decide what we most want to do. We also brought BBH cards, which are like a savings/loyalty card for hostels in New Zealand. Whilst it seems an expensive outlay ($45 each), we've already made savings of $24 on our accommodation in Paihia and when we return to Auckland.
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  • Kiwi Experience - Auckland to Paihia

    6 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    It was still dark when our Kiwi Experience bus picked us up on Queens Street. We clambered on board with our fellow travellers (10 including us) for our 'Cape and Bay' trip, which takes us north to Paihia, a port at the 'Bay of Islands', before a day trip further north to Cape Reinga tomorrow.

    Driving out of Auckland Kim suddenly realised that she had left her neck pillow behind at the hostel. This is the second neck pillow that Kim has lost (to be fair not just on this trip) and Alex thinks it's lucky to have made it this far. Kim may buy a replacement but Alex thinks it would be bordering on a cruelty to neck pillows if Kim lost a third.

    After crossing the Auckland Harbour Bridge we drove through thick fog, which layered the road and surrounding countryside. The sun weakly sought to break through, casting a ghostly yellow light that nearby cattle past through like shadowy spectres. When the fog did break it revealed a lush green farming landscape studded with trees, barns and cattle herds. If it wasn't for the different species of trees then you could have mistaken it for England.

    Of our group who we've managed to get to know so far there is Pierrick from France, a psychiatrist who works in Geneva as well as a diving instructor in Thailand. Also there is Jamie and Abi from Manchester, who have lived and worked in Auckland for over a year. Both have travelled in Australia and South East Asia before coming to New Zealand, so it's interesting and informative to hear their experiences. It's possible that we will travel further on the Kiwi circuit with these and other members of our group or at least bump into them again down the line.

    On route to Paihia we stopped at the peaceful Whangarei Falls, surreally located near a main road. Light and water danced together through the surrounding woodland as we circumnavigated to the base of the falls, before coming back up and over them via a narrow metal bridge. One of the volunteer guides showed us photos of how in July 2014 heavy rains had transformed the tranquil falls into a raging torrent that drowned both the bridge we had crossed as well as the picnic area at the base of the falls.

    The sun dominated the sky as we arrived in Paihia. Small islands, green with vegetation, sit up from the bright blue water of the bay whilst yachts and ferries float about. We later hiked up through forest for a better view as the setting sun threw embers of light across the water. Afterwards we sat down by the water to complete the sunset as Jack Johnson's 'Banana Pancakes' played from a nearby bar.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Experience - Cape Reinga

    7 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    It was another start in the dark for our day trip to Cape Reinga, the most northern tip of New Zealand.

    Our first stop was at the Puketi Kauri Forest that preserves some of the ancient Kauri trees. The area had once been full of these giants, however once European settlers learnt of their value as a strong wood that floated, which also contained a strong resin that could be used as varnish, they were forested on an industrial scale. Fortunately those that we saw were firstly preserved by their location, which made them difficult to access, before conservation work in the 20th century ensured their survival.

    Upon arrival our driver guide Chris explained that Maori tradition was to greet the forest and the spiritual ancestors that remain within it. He bellowed a warming chant in Maori language that rose up through the canopy into the cool hiss of the early morning. We walked through the cool damp air of the enveloping forest with the thick smell of earth. The rising sun kept at bay by the canopy above. These kauri trees, only 500 years old when they could reach 2000 years of age, are enormous. They rise straight and strong from the forest floor leading your head to follow them up into the sky. The trunks of the trees can become as wide as 2-3 metres and their wood is highly prized for its significance and quality. When a tree now dies naturally, its wood is used by local artisans to make furniture, even staircases carved out of the inside of the trunk.

    We moved on through lush green diary farms up to Cape Reinga. We walked to it's lighthouse as the sun cast out across the rippling waters of both the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea that meet here. Wind wrapped around our face and the reflecting light off the water caused us to squint. The few clouds cast shadows on the water that foamed at the rock face below, where the Pohutukawa tree, sacred to the Maori and representing the doorway to the afterlife, clung on doggedly against the elements.

    Moving on to the Te Paki stream, we scaled and sand-boarded down monstrous sand dunes. The climb up was exhausting whilst the slide down was exhilarating. On the steep slope you could slide into the stream, which Alex did whilst Kim almost went airborne down one of the longer slopes.

    Giddy with adrenaline we headed to 90 Mile Beach, so named by Captain Cook who navigated the waters around New Zealand in the 18th Century, because it was 90 nautical miles from end to end. Our bus, fitted to drive on such terrain, drove down the beach, taking a fast but careful line down the wet sand. It becomes very tight between the tide and the rocks at one point and had to circle to time our rush through the gap and not become stuck in the tide. Once through we continued to cruise south, spotting seal pups raising into the waves.

    Nearing our return to Paihia, we stopped for 'Fush and Chops', as Chris announced it, at Mangonui, which was very welcome. Sitting at the harbour as the sun cast golden rays across the boats bobbing in the tide, we guzzled down fresh fish in crispy batter with fried chips out of paper wrapping.
    Baca lagi

  • Paihia

    8 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We slept soundly after our long trip to Cape Reinga, even Alex woke up after 7:00am. After the recent early starts we took our time getting ready as the sun shone across the verandah and through the windows our hostel.

    Magnified by the glass the sun cooked the wooden table that we sat at for breakfast. It brought forth the wood's natural scent as spoons clinked in bowls and we chatted with some other travellers from Australia and Luxembourg.

    After breakfast we set off to hike to the Haruru Falls, passing by the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where the treaty between the Maori chiefs and the British Crown was signed in 1840, but the interpretation of which led to war at the time and on-going legal debate.

    The dark gravel trail to the falls, quickly began to twist and undulate alongside the Waitangi river. The temperature changed from a dry warmth to a damp cool as the trail varied direction to take us closer to the river or further into the adjacent woodland. The gravel turned to clay whilst roots and rocks stuck out, inviting you to fall. In places fallen trees barred the way, causing us to step over and round them. All of this slowed us but we continued on to reach a wooden walkway that took us through a field of Mangroves. Only the dull rhythm of our footsteps against the walkway could be heard as the Mangroves twisted silently in the mud.

    We heard the falls before we saw them, an increasing hiss of water as we turned a final corner. Seagulls fluttered about as the water tipped over the edge into the foaming white beneath. We ate lunch under a cool spray before turning back the way we had come. Once back to the trailhead, we rested in the warmth of the sun on a wide lawn that stretched down to the river.

    In the evening we met up with our fellow Kiwi Experience travellers for Happy Hour burgers and beers in a nearby bar. We set to work on a game of Jenga and and were so industrious that the barmaid offered a mystery shot to whoever eventually knocked it down. Tension was high and as it came to Alex to pull out another block it appeared it would be he drinking the shot. Yet somehow, as the tower tilted and turned, he managed to get his block out without toppling it over. It swayed as if held together by air itself and came crashing down after Pierrick barely touched it. The barmaid came over with a shot of what looked like vomit and Pierrick duly downed it in one. Afterwards the barmaid informed us that the shot included baileys and lime (which curdled the baileys) as well as Tabasco sauce and rum. Pierrick was ok but didn't help himself by having to run back to bar after he realised he'd left his wallet.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Experience - Paihia to Auckland

    9 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We were woken early by someone clattering pots in the kitchen next to our bedroom (hostel living) so we decided to get on with it and went down to the beach for a morning jog. A fog hung heavily over the water obscuring the islands and boats in the bay. The sand was cold and hard beneath our feet but we quickly warmed up as we took a route between the lapping waters and the road. The sun was turning trees on a hillside from green to orange as we returned to our hostel.

    We breakfasted with the same travellers as yesterday morning, who offered for us to drive with them back down to Auckland. It seemed like we would have fun with them but felt torn between this and our newly forming group with Kiwi Experience. So in the end we kindly declined and spent the time before our bus back to Auckland with Pierrick, Jamie and Abi, bathing in the sun on a shoreside pontoon. At the front of Paihia's pier is a piano painted in an array of colours. Pierrick, with encouragement from the rest of us, began to play classical pieces he had learnt when he was younger. Although a number of keys did not work the music was still a great compliment to the postcard scene around us.

    Back in Auckland we returned to the same hostel we had previously stayed at, Verandahs. The owner, Campbell, greeted us at the door before giving us a free upgrade to an ensuite, which was very welcomed. We settled in for an early night as it was another day travelling tomorrow, this time southward to Hot Water Beach.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - Auckland to Hot Water Beach

    10 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Going new places and meeting new faces we travelled southeast bound to Hot Water Beach on a larger and fuller Kiwi Experience bus. We were now travelling on the main circuit of the Kiwi Experience that the buses run around the country. There are a large number of Brits including a sprinkling of Hooray Henrys but they get everywhere. We spent the time to our destination sharing travelling stories and how we all ended up in New Zealand.

    After zig-zagging up and down switch back roads on forest covered hillside we came upon on the Coromandel peninsula. Off the bus and walking along a trail to our first destination, Cathedral Cove, we passed an area of land that has been designated as a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the First World War. The plan is to plant 3000 trees to represent the lives lost but currently there are crosses made from reeds lining the trail path on either side. This simple but haunting representation of loss made Alex think of how lucky he and the other men in our group were for being alive now and not 100 years before when he, Jamie and Pierrick would not have been travelling round the world but as young men would instead have found themselves in the mud of France and Belgium.

    The trail dropped down through the tree-studded cliffs to the white sands below. There stood Cathedral Cove, a cavernous tunnel of cathedral proportions (duh) carved out of the cliffside by the sea. The shuffles of our feet through the sand echoed inside the damp of the cove as the smell of the sea wandered through on the breeze. As the sun was setting we returned to our lodgings for a communal dinner with our dorm room mates.

    Afterwards we went back out into the black of the evening in search Hot Water Beach. More specifically, the hot springs that can be found in certain spots under the sand, which send hot water up to heat the surface. Armed with shovels the group set about digging self-made spas, which we then sat in as the hot water rose from the sand into a shallow pool. The moon appeared to race through the moving cloud above and the tide crashed onto the shore in front of us.

    The temperature of the water and sand was certainly hot and too hot to stand on in some places. It was a challenge to find just the right temperature and people were hopping over the sand as they found spots too hot or cold to stand. The evening sea breeze hungrily snapped around the walls of the spas but the hot water kept the real cold at bay like a fire normally would. It was a memorable experience, made more so by the fact that we were doing it in winter darkness.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - Hot Water Beach to Waitomo

    11 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We both slept lightly after a night in our dorm (Alex got up at 5:00am). This is as good time as any to explain that along with Pierrick, Jamie and Abi, the other member of our travelling family is Gali, a young Israeli woman who is travelling between finishing her compulsory 3 years service in the Israeli Army and starting her new job and life in Paris. The absence of mentioning Gali before has not been intentional and she has very much been part of our group. However when travelling you will meet many people, some very fleetingly and others you will stay with as you move about. Yet it is not always certain for how long.

    We left Hot Water Beach behind as the sun was still rising over the waters, moving further south onto Waitomo, stopping to walk along the trail and swing bridges of the Karangahake Reserve. Once at Waitomo we went underground in search of its famous glow worm caves. Kitted out with wet suits, helmets and most importantly guides from a local company we descended into rushing waters of the caves, lit only by the lamps on her helmets.

    The noise of the water was deafening in places and we struggled to keep our balance over wet rock and the strong current that flowed around us. Our hands clasped at oily rock, trying to maintain a grip and remain upright. The ceiling would rise and fall to become as tall as a building and so low that we had to float underneath on the inflated rubber tubing that we carried with us, our faces just inches from the rock face.

    It became necessary for us to jump down waterfalls and to do so our guides would get us to turn our backs to the falls with the tubing held behind us before jumping backwards to land afloat on the water. This took nerve and trust in our guides as we were descending into black water and the unknown below. It was an exhilarating experience that revved your adrenaline. This was needed as the temperature inside the caves with all its water was cold even with the protection of our wetsuits.

    In contrast to the excitement of the waterfalls was the serene calm felt as we turned off our lamps and floated in complete darkness to gaze upon the glow worms on the ceilings above us. They appeared like a sprinkling of stars that glowed a bluish haze. Only our breathing and the drip of water from above could be heard.

    When we ascended back out of the cave, sunset had been and gone so the darkness of the cave continued. This caused some confusion as the presence of trees made it appear as if we had entered an underground forest. The hardest part of all was yet to come, with us having to take off our cold wet suits outside. We shivered and struggled to pull the clinging material away from our bodies before rushing into the embrace of hot showers. This with hot soup brought our body temperatures safely back up. It was smiles all round as we relived our experience through the photos taken by our guides along the way (we were not permitted to take our own cameras) before returning to our hostel for dinner and sleep.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - Waitomo to Rotorua

    12 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We began the day by taking a short hike through the nearby Ruakuri Reserve. This would not have been particularly noteworthy had Alex not smacked his head on the hanging rock face of a cave ceiling. Swearing and bleeding but still walking, Alex will now be more attentive and move out of the way of large rocks.

    With Alex nursing his head we travelled to the Hobbiton movie set, where Kim was in her element exploring the neat gardens and hobbit holes as seen in the films. After the Lord of the Rings trilogy, the set, then made from plywood and polystyrene was taken down. However for the Hobbit films it was rebuilt as a lasting structure for people to visit after filming ended. We wandered through the scenery of the books, made famous by the films, along paths, through orchards and past colourful doorways to Bag End itself. From this vantage point you look out across Hobbiton, over its pond and Party Tree, toward the river with its working watermill and The Green Dragon Pub. At the pub we drank amber ale and ate steaming steak pie before leaving the fantasy world behind.

    We rolled onward to Rotorua from where we entered the replica Pre-European Maori village, Tamaki, for our overnight Maori cultural experience. We had heard that this was highly rated and we were not disappointed. Originally created by two Maori brothers who wished to share their culture 26 years ago, it offers visitors the chance to engage in Maori culture as well as stay overnight at the village. Our accommodation was a ‘Wharemoe’, a traditional wooden carved sleeping house, albeit with the modern trappings of electricity and beds.

    We were greeted by a display of the traditional Maori challenge, which was to determine whether visitors came in peace or war. The Maori warriors, adorned with their facial tattoos and brandishing their Taiaha weaponry with a roaring chorus of their challenge, made an intimidating spectacle. You can only imagine that it would have been 'brown trousers' for the British emissaries and soldiers who first engaged with the Maori tribes in the 19th century.

    After this and further demonstrations of Maori culture, we were invited to eat a delicious ‘Hangi’ feast, which included meats and vegetables cooked in the ground. Alex ate his body weight in New Zealand lamb and still ate the pavlova and steam pudding for dessert before being invited by our hosts to undertake a topless Haka (ceremonial war dance) with the other males in our group. We spent the rest of the evening into the early hours of the morning drinking beer by the fire and in outdoor hot tubs under the trees and stars above.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - Rotorua to Taupo

    13 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    The morning was greeted with some fragile looks after the late night/early morning hot tub and beers. Reluctantly leaving Tamaki village behind us, there was an option to visit TePuia, Rotorua’s geothermal park, however we chose not to after seeing so much of this when in the USA. Instead we chose to hike through the area’s Redwoods park, so called because – you guessed it – the presence of Redwood trees. This was something we had not been able to do in California and wanted to see these giants of nature up close.

    A morning mist still lingered between the trees as the forest enveloped behind us. Although there were other people out, a great silence still held court, causing you to whisper your sentences as your footsteps were cushioned by the soft ground beneath. A damp smell of wood sat on the air as we crept between the red sentinels. The Redwoods came in different sizes but all shot up to the sky from thick trunks that signalled strength and age. Along the way we crossed a small body of water, made a garish blue by the local geothermal activity, which created a colourful scene with the evergreen of the ferns in contrast to the slate sky above.

    After this it was a short drive to our destination, Taupo, which sits next to the lake of the same name. The grey waters of the bay were chopping in a strong breeze as we arrived and were informed that the nearby Tongariro Alpine Crossing (an 8 hour hike through epic scenery including Mt Ngauruhoe - Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings) was closed due to severe weather. This will now have to be something that we hope to do when we returned north to Auckland next month. For the remainder of the day we relaxed in the warmth of the quiet town, recovering from last night and planning our adventures to come.
    Baca lagi

  • Taupo

    14 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    As the Tongorario Alpine Crossing was closed due to severe weather we chose to hike to the Huka Falls. However we deliberately took our time in doing so after a week of near constant travel. Taking the trail parallel to the Waikato River, which flows into Lake Taupo, our expectations were more for a solid hike than the falls themselves. Admittedly, our excitement at seeing the falls was somewhat muted due to having already seen a number in New Zealand already and likely more to come. Yet we were surprised by the colour and the power of the Huka Falls when they came into view. The deep turquoise of the river is sucked into a narrow corridor of rock where it is thrashed into a white frenzy before being projected out as if from a tap. The noise is thunderous, eclipsing the wind and wildlife around it.

    Once back in Tapou we decided to visit it's own hot water beach, curious to see how it compared to what we experienced on the Coromandel peninsula. We walked along the shoreline of Lake Taupo, which is the crater of a dormant super volcano. It is so big that you can fit Singapore into it and when it last erupted over 1000 years ago, there were reports of ash falling in China. Luckily there were no eruptions today but we were disappointed to find that what little hot water was present at high tide, was scalding in temperature. So instead of bathing we sat at its edge and watched the sun set as gulls and ducks paddled at the tide's edge.

    We returned to our hostel for dinner and a night in with a film. It felt surreal yet relaxing to be doing something so familiar to being at home after so many new experiences.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - Taupo to River Valley

    15 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    We continued southward toward our last destination on New Zealand's North Island as well as the country's capital, Wellington. However before this we would be staying the night at the remote River Valley lodge near Taihape.

    On the way to River Valley we stopped at the Tongorariro National Park. Despite the Alpine Crossing still being closed, we could hike through some of the park. We took a short trail to, you guessed it, Tawhai Falls. We walked through a landscape similar to Dartmoor in November as the rain came at us sideways. You could see in places where the scenery may have been used for scenes in Lord of the Rings where Frodo and Sam begin their journey into Mordor.

    When we returned to the bus, Jared, our driver, told us that he had previously had two very big Lord of the Rings fans on his bus. These fans were so big that they not only purchased a replica Ring from Hobbiton for several hundreds of NZ dollars but then chartered a private helicopter for thousands of NZ dollars to take them up to Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in the films) to have their pictures taken in poses similar to those in the film. Geeked out.

    We took a small road that switched back and forth around and down hillsides into River Valley. We got as close as we could but a jeep from the lodge still had to take our rucksacks the last 2-300m of steep track that we trudged down on foot. The rain continued to follow us but the fire in the lodge threw out a warm embrace as we entered. The smells of dinner and the shiny clink of glass from the bar greeted us furthermore.

    It was Gali's last night with us before returning for home so we celebrated with happy hour jugs of beer and drinking games that including trying to pick a matchbox up with your mouth from behind a chair from a starting position of sitting and not touching the floor throughout. Also trying to get under a large wide table without touching the floor. Sounds stupid now but at the time, very fun.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - River Valley to Wellington

    16 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    It was a cold wet morning in River Valley as we got up to meet the day. We shared a dorm with Pierrick and a South Korean, Chang, who is not on our bus but also happened to be staying at the lodge. Chang was very pleasant but snored like a buzz saw, so much so that it even woke Alex.

    After last night's drinking game antics our bodies were marked with bumps and bruises where gravity had got the better of us when trying to get matchboxes from chairs and get under tables without touching the floor. Alcohol had dulled any injury at the time letting us believe we should have another go...

    After breakfast we took a walk with Gali and Abi in the crisp morning air. We were given a lift out of the valley on the floor of a staff van that threw us around as the chassis bounced over unmade track. Let out at the top of the valley we walked back to the lodge. Sheep grazed on the green hillsides around us whilst in the distance the white cold of mountains and grey frost on alpine forests reminded us how cold it was. Here the road was tarmac and the decline gentle but on the final 2-300m it turned to gravel and became much steeper. The decline pushed our feet forward so we felt as if we were tip-toeing down the track. When we all left the lodge to get back on the bus at the top of this track we were panting for air by the time we reached the top.

    Even by the admittance of our driver, Jared, the day was an uneventful drive to Wellington, although to lighten this we did stop at a large adventure playground with equipment for all ages. We swarmed into the park like children; running on giant hamster wheels and through swing bridges; screaming down tube slides and zip lines; swinging from monkey bars and ropes. It was a great way to burn off some energy built up from a long bus ride.

    That wasn't the end of our exercise however as when we made our way to our hostel it included an unexpected steep climb, this time with the full weight of our rucksacks. The fresh air and the exercise still coursed through us as we sank into our bed and a deep sleep.
    Baca lagi

  • Wellington

    17 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    The sun invited us out into a bright blue Wellington morning, making it ideal for climbing up Mt Victoria for views over the city. The short but steep climb brought us to a viewing platform giving 360 degree views over the city and surrounding mountains. The bay glistened as tankers and yachts navigated the waters. The network of streets and buildings sat in contrast with the deep green of the wooded hills.

    We returned to street level to stroll along the marina where bird life vied with each other for the possibility of scraps from our lunch. Turning back into the high rising office blocks and shops we took the landmark bright red cable car up out of the small city to the top of the hill and Wellington's botanical gardens. Plaques on park benches reminded us of New Zealand's history as a destination for immigrants as well as refugees. One bench is dedicated to an Austrian couple with a Jewish surname who left Vienna in 1938. Reading this we imagined how frightening Austria would have been in 1938 to the extent that you would travel to one of the furthest destinations in the world.

    We walked back to the city through the park with its gardens, cold and silent in the winter afternoon. We passed through a cemetery of old names and dates in marble and stone before coming across the parliament buildings with its 'beehive' architecture. After seeing a number of cinemas and advertisements for film releases, our group realised that we wanted to relive our childhoods and see 'Jurassic World'.

    Like when we sat in to watch television the other night, it felt surreal because it was something we might do at home but it was great fun, particularly to do as a group on a winter's night in Wellington. Alex kept humming the theme tune so much that Kim thought she might have to punch him.
    Baca lagi

  • Wellington

    18 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The morning was spent planning out our forthcoming adventures on New Zealand's South Island, to which we depart tomorrow. After this, some lunch and laundry we visited Wellington's Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa.

    Entry is free to the museum, which covers five large floors of exhibits on art, nature, history and culture related to New Zealand that we roamed through. There were exhibits including an enormous whale skeleton and a preserved giant squid; a house that simulated an earthquake and furniture made from the recent earthquake in Christchurch; a preserved Waka (Maori canoe) and Wharemoe (sleeping house), similar to that which we slept in at Tamaki.

    The most emotive exhibit was that to the centenary since Gallipoli. The exhibit included over-sized but incredibly lifelike models of those who were at Gallipoli, accompanied by their stories. The last of these figures waded through a pool of paper poppies left by visitors. There was healthy reference to the Maori, who, following fierce debate to allow them, fought and died alongside European New Zealanders.

    The museum also exhibited the ambiguous Watangi treaty as well as how the famous Haka has been commercialised and imitated without Maori consent and required legal action to rectify.

    The museum stays open until 9:00pm but by 6:00pm hunger and tiredness lead us to the exit. We stopped off at the supermarket for a large portion of cooked chicken and rice (bargain at only $4) before heading back to our hostel. It would be an early night as tomorrow we were back on the road and over the water to the South Island.
    Baca lagi

  • Kiwi Exp. - Wellington to Kaiteriteri

    19 Jun 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Wind and rain lashed against us as we walked from our hostel to our pick up point for the bus. Alex somehow managed to stay upright with the weight of his rucksack when his foot slipped on the wet metal of a manhole cover at the end of a steep street. Some expletives and more rain later we sat damp on the bus, making our way through morning traffic for our ferry to the South Island.

    The big white ferry with its streaks of orange rust sat in the grey drizzle of the port. We boarded along a gangway, taking front row seats on the top deck. This gave us commanding views across the bow and out over the waters as we left the port and moved out onto the open water. However after an hour it also gave us a rollercoaster experience as the ferry surged up and down and waves sprayed against the windows. The floor gave way beneath our feet and the room swung back and forth around us. We could only stand this motion for so long before we retreated downstairs to the back of the lower deck where it was calmer. Nausea quickly passed as we moved into calmer waters through the rocky outcrops of the South Island's coastline. Rocks turned to hills covered in alpine forests, the greens contrasting with the blues of the sky and the sea. The sun now shone where it had hidden behind cloud back in the north.

    We docked at Picton and returned to the bus to drive to our destination, Kaiteriteri. Due to 'hopping off' the bus and staying in Wellington for the last 3 days we had a new driver, Kane, as well as new fellow travellers on the bus (the majority of those on our last bus had chosen to continue travelling on). However the bus was far less full with only 15 of us in total compared with nearly 35 on our last bus (we also heard today that our previous bus broke down today so luck is with us for now).

    The sun remained out as we drove through wintering vineyards and the landscape became reminiscent of that in Montana and Wyoming, USA with cattle farmland against a backdrop of alpine mountains shrouded in mist. The mist grew into a fog, masking the sun to a yellow halo against the silhouette of pine trees on the ridges. The fog grew further around us as we wound our way down through the hills but as we past a shoreline the sun re-emerged on the horizon as it set behind a distant mountain range. With only the peaks of the range visible by the sun's glow, it gave the impression of being the spine of a great beast lumbering through the cloud around it.

    We arrived in complete darkness and were immediately surprised by the sounding of an alarm similar to a 1940s air raid siren. Seeing our surprise the receptionist at our hostel explained that this was the rural community's alarm for its fire service as two men sprinted from a nearby bar clearly responding to its call. Wherever the fire was we did not know of it again and it was a quiet night in, in what felt like the middle of nowhere.
    Baca lagi