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A semi-serious adventure

april - oktober 2015
  • Kim and Alex
Een 186-daags avontuur van Kim and Meer informatie
  • Kim and Alex
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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    1112

    Bottom Bus - Dunedin to Invercargill

    30 juni 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The dawn sky turned empiric purple to orange rust as we left Dunedin and Massive Attack's 'Teardrop' played on the stereo. We followed logging trucks through a green landscape filled with sheep farms, passing farmers on quad bikes with their dogs shepherding flocks.

    On our way to Invercargill we made a series of stops along the wild southern coast. The first stop was Kaka Point where bull kelp, like giant strands of tagliatelle, lay over the hard wet sand. Only the breathing of the waves and the occasional squawk from a gull could be heard as the water glittered off the sunlight. We hiked up to the lighthouse, which overlooked a rocky outcrop where seals danced amongst the surging white water.

    We moved on to Cannibal Bay, so called because decapitated skeletal remains were found there by early explorers. This is quite plausible as Maori would decapitate the head of their defeated enemy chief before boiling and eating it to obtain the deceased chief's 'mana' or power. We planned to walk along to beach in search of sea lions that be viewed there. However the tide was too high, rushing in to foam at our feet so we could be certain that the beach was impassable.

    After this we went to Curio Bay, where from an exposed outcrop we were thrust sideways by the wind as huge waves charged the coastline, smashing skyward as they met rock face. Again we searched for sea lions but unfortunately saw none. At the nearby petrified forest, so called because the fossilised remains of ancient trees are embedded in the rock, we sought out the rare yellow eyed penguins that nested there.

    Carefully picking our way over rocks slick with sea water and kelp we stood patiently to see if any penguins would appear from the waters. The wind wrapped around us and the sea relentlessly battered rocks on the shoreline but no penguins appeared. Our noses grew cold and our hands numb but still no penguins. Just as we were ready to surrender one solitary penguin threw themselves up out of the surf and waddled across the rocks to the flax lining the bay. We were lucky to be able to see such a rare and shy bird but we felt luckier still to be back in the shelter of our bus and on our way to Invercargill.

    The cold cramped overpriced hostel did little to lift our spirits in the dark wet evening. However it was for only one night and the shared experience brought camaraderie our fellow travellers. Inside sarcastic laughter echoed off the walls whilst outside the wind howled and clouds wept.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    111

    Kiwi Exp.-Invercargill to Milford Sound

    1 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Despite travelling in winter and there being times we have been battered by the wind and rain, on days when we have wanted, even needed, the weather to be clear and calm, it has been so. So once again good fortunate literally shone down on us as after the rough weather from Dunedin the skies cleared and the sun shone brightly for our journey to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Milford Sound. However we could not initially realise our luck due to leaving Invercargill in early morning darkness due to the roundtrip back to Queenstown requiring 13 hours.

    Snow white mountains edged closer across the dawn coated vista as the alpine landscape of the previous week began to return into view. Clouds floated under the peaks of the granite giants as we descended into the Fiordland National Park, where Milford Sound is situated. A mist hung over the sun lit valley floor as we examined the Mirror Lakes, where a slight breeze rippled the waters as the mountains were reflected back up at us. The temperature was cold under the shadowed canopy of moss covered trees that are fed by cascading waters from the mountain tops.

    Historically access overland to Milford Sound confounded bureaucrats and explorers for decades. Even when a pass was eventually identified, it was so difficult that only the most capable of climbers could accomplish it. Eventually it was agreed that the only practical way of gaining access would be through, rather than over, the mountains and in 1935 work began on the Homer Tunnel. 1.2km in length, taking nearly 20 years to complete and costing a number of human lives, it was built for the sole purpose of tourism. Once through this testament of human will power we descended toward Milford Sound, which lay shimmering like a steel plate below us. We felt as if we were entering a hidden kingdom as we twisted down the switchback road and 1000ft sheer granite walls towered around us.

    Once down onto the valley floor, we ventured to The Chasm where the full force of the Cleddau River is thrust through a deep slot canyon, its rock face curved and bowled like ice cream run through with a spoon. Its sculpted surface created by rock brought down into the chasm by the river to bounce around inside the canyon like marbles in a washing machine. Blue water gushed under the bridge we stood upon to thunder down into the canyon, filling the air with its roar…    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    111

    Kiwi Exp. - Milford Sound to Queenstown

    1 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    …Leaving the rushing waters of The Chasm behind us, we took a ferry upon the calmer waters of Milford Sound. In front of us the Mitre Peak rose up, partially cloaked in cloud and blanched in sunlight, to be reflected in the waters of the Sound (or Fiord as this in fact was Milford is but the name as stuck).

    Steadily moving out onto the water we passed waterfalls, large and small that sent white rivets from the mountains down into blue waters below. Low lying cloud slid along the cliff faces, obscuring parts of the mountains whilst sunlight shot through u-shaped canyons to strobe out like the beam of a lantern. We cruised through a natural paradise that due to its location and now world heritage status, had and hopefully would continue to remain untouched by human endeavours. Only the sound of the ferry’s motor boards cutting through the water and the people talking on board could be heard amongst the tranquil silence that accompanied the extraordinary scenes.

    At the mouth of the Sound, where it opened up out into the seemingly never-ending horizon of the Tasman Sea, we turned back to coast past dense rainforest and fauna hanging almost miraculously from the unforgiving granite that dropped straight down into the deep water. We past a small group of seals lazing on rocks before getting as close as safely possible to one of the larger waterfalls that flow down off the mountains, the Stirling Falls. The falls thumped down onto the Sound, sending ripples off in all directions as the ferry was covered in a steady thick mist of water. like an enormous car wash. Those outside on the open decks were soaked through to come back inside dripping with ice cold water.

    We returned to port for the lengthy bus journey back to Queenstown, on which we looked out at the passing landscape as it faded in the dusk. We reflected on how we had been somewhat apprehensive at the length of the journey and questioned, as we had heard others do, whether the experience was worth it. However, having now done so we can gladly say that it was, to experience such a dramatic landscape that words and photographs cannot do justice.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure

    Queenstown

    2 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our marathon of travel between Dunedin and Queenstown via Invercargill and Milford Sound in two days left us more tired than we had realised. Even Alex didn't wake until 8:15am after we had crashed out at 10:00pm last night, which is probably a record for him. We started as we meant to go on - slow. After finding out how little we had done during the day, our Australian dorm-mate, Tom, asked 'what happened to all the sky diving?'. We admitted that everyday can't be a 'skydive' day and that sometimes you just need to kick back.

    We took a walk along the lake esplanade outside our hostel and into Queenstown village where a plethora of international tourists sought out coffee and ski passes. Shabby backpackers rubbed shoulders with the Prada brigade, brought together by the call of the winter slopes. Restaurants, clothing shops and the inevitable Starbucks wrestle for attention as 4x4s and hybrids snake through roundabouts and pelican crossings. Crowds were all the thicker for the area's best snowfall in some time as well as the start of New Zealand and Australian school holidays. The biggest crowd appeared to be outside the burger chain Fergburger. Depending on who you speak to, a Fergburger is the best burger you will ever eat or it is just a good burger well advertised. Eitherway at a 20 minute wait in a cold queue and $20 price tag we'd expect a pretty amazing burger. Nevertheless we might try it if we find the queues have subsided at some point.

    On our way back we spotted a lone brave paragliding out on the lake against the mountain backdrop and granite and white. Paragliding is something we would like to try but we didn'tfancy being up there in this winter climate.

    Back at the hostel we organised our journey back north through New Zealand before spending time to prepare a proper evening meal that isn't always possible due to limited facilities and time when travelling day after day. With content stomachs and minds we took to bed ready for whatever tomorrow would bring.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    21

    Queenstown

    3 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Yesterday’s deliberate slow pace helped us recuperate to the point that we were restless for another adventure this morning. After waking to Skype home to wish Alex’s Mum a happy birthday (which was surreal with it being 9:00pm there when we were yet to have breakfast) we set out to hike Te Tapu-nui, a hill overlooking Queenstown with views across Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains. It’s meaning in Maori is ‘a mountain of intense sacredness’ but the first part of the climb was just bloody hard work. Even before reaching the Queenstown Hill Reserve upon which Te Tapu-nui sits, we walked across the village and worked our way up through the streets leading to the reserve’s entrance. Whilst we may have walked up the world’s steepest residential street in Dunedin, the streets we traversed here must be a very close second. We felt as if we were tilting at an almost 45 degree angle as our toes pressed into the ground before us. The psychological effect of this was to make us feel as if the hike would be too much but after a brief stop to catch our breath, we gritted our teeth and slogged on.

    Fortunately once into the reserve, the track levelled somewhat but it was still a steep ascent of 500m to the ‘Basket of Dreams’, which spiritually links you as the walker with the mountain and the future. Our legs wobbled as they found their bearing on the track, we felt almost out of shape having not done any serious hiking since Franz Josef but we eventually found our stride. We moved up through silent pine forest where the damp smell of mud and wood hung. Cornering the switchback trail we came across a meadow of rock cairns of differing sizes left by those who came before us. Judging the progress of our ascent by the increasing sunlight and shrinking height of the pines around us we were soon out into the open, scrambling up the last piece of track before the iron woven sculpture of the ‘Basket of Dreams’. Resting on the cold moss speckled rocks we took in the view before us, contemplating the summit that still stood 400m behind. Although the beginning was hard we were now in our element and quickly moved on to get to the very top.

    The wind blew around us as we left the cover of the pines and our boots squelched in the boggy flanks of the hillside. The track circled its way up to the summit and finally with nothing but blue sky cresting the pathway before us we made the summit. The wind rushed over us and all around us stood mountains whilst below lay Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu. We basked in our achievement before beginning the steady descent back to our hostel, meeting Tom on the way down and encouraging him to keep going to the very top.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure

    Queenstown

    4 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Last night we went out to celebrate Pierrick's birthday. It will sound odd after all the activities we have done but going out for a sit-down meal and drinks is something of a special event on our backpacker budget. Not only was it was Pierrick's birthday but it was also the last night before our little group went its separate ways after a month travelling together. From Auckland up to Cape Reinga and back again before snaking through the North Island into Wellington and back out down the West Coast to Queenstown.

    We went for dinner at a pizzeria where Alex's order of a chicken and avocado salad drew some interested looks but Jamie's order of deep pan pizza was regrettable when it came with a year's supply of cheese and he couldn't finish it. Washed down with beer, wine and tequila we sang happy birthday as the waitress brought out candles precariously balanced on top of a quickly melting ice cream sundae.

    After dinner we went to a bar where Bill Murray watched proceedings from his wall hanging. Strobes splashed colour over dancers as bass reverberated down our spines and off the floorboards. Teapots hung over the bar from which you could drink cocktails but it was tequila that kept our party going. Fire, salt and lemon lingered in our mouths as the late night rolled into the early hours. We stepped out into the cold and said our goodbyes under the stars.

    Earlier in the day we swapped rooms at our hostel as we had two separate bookings. This meant no more affable Aussie, Tom, to share our room with. Instead we now share with German, Patrick, who talks in his sleep (in English incidentally) and snores with the consistency of a Japanese rail network. As a result (and maybe the tequila) neither of us slept very well so today has been 'go-slow' again. We put the finishing touches to our northbound plans whilst watching the world go by, sheltered by the warm glow from the wood burner in our lounge.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    111

    Kiwi Exp. - Queenstown to Lake Tekapo

    5 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We met our bus to Lake Tekapo with it's aged and moustached driver, Bods, who Alex instantly liked for his casual swearing and for playing Lynyrd Skynyrd's 'Free Bird' as we rolled out of Queenstown.

    Whilst the sky was clear and the sun shining, the weather behind us was not so fair and we needed to get over the Lindis Pass before snow came in and potentially blocked our way through. However we made good time even with the highly questionable driving of some locals (Bods was quite direct in what he thought about this) and we entered the shadows of the Lindis Pass. From the summit you could see down into the valley below, which was largely covered in snow but for streaks of exposed earth. Like on our journey down to Dunedin, this made the hillsides appear like the flanks of a snow tiger.

    We moved past the deep blue of partially frozen salmon fishing lakes before arriving before the proud aquamarine of Lake Tekapo. Upon the shore stood the Church of the Good Shepherd, overlooking the waters that stretched out to a distant shoreline where Mount Cook imperiously held back snow clouds on its shoulders.

    The church was originally and largely built using materials within a 5km radius (although wood used in the construction had to be brought in from further out as none grew locally). It is of no fixed denomination so any religious ceremony can be held there, reflecting the ecletic religions of New Zealand. The scenery is apparently once of the most oil painted in the country and the land around the church was purchased and gifted to the local council to ensure no one else built there.

    We later attempted to hike up Mount John for broader views across the lake and mountains but ice on the trail forced us to concede that it was too unsafe to do. Instead on the way back down we found ourselves helping a couple in search of their two young daughters, who we eventually found hunting for a rabbit, happily oblivious to their parents having kittens over their absence.

    Due to reading poor reviews we had low expectations for the hostel at our bus stop but our efforts to find alternative accommodation were thwarted by school holiday demand. Furthermore when we sought a double bed rather than a dorm at the hostel we also found no vacancy. Yet our luck changed when after arranging with another couple, Northern Irish doctors, John and Natalie, to share a 4 bed dorm we found ourselves in a 'family villa' with two double bedrooms, our own bathroom, kitchen and Sky TV for the same price as a double bed. It was all very civilised compared to the usual hostel experience and we sat up sharing stories of travel and life back home over beer and wine. As the Kiwis say 'Sweet as'.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    11

    Kiwi Exp. - Lake Tekapo to Christchurch

    6 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The mountains slipped off the horizon as we entered the Canterbury Plains on our way to Christchurch. Driving through this great farming belt Bods explained that there not enough farmers in New Zealand to farm the available land so workers from overseas are arriving to do this. New Zealand certainly appears to offer a good quality of life with its free education, healthcare and array of benefits, however taxation and the cost of living can be high. Yet as Bods put it 'if you want all these things, someone has to pay for it'.

    In 2011 Christchurch was struck by a magnitude 6.3 earthquake which took the lives of 185 people, injured thousands more and severely damaged the city's buildings to the extent that huge swathes of the eastern part of the city no longer stand. The city is now slowly rebuilding itself but despite the large presence of construction there is still a heavy sense of loss in the large open areas where buildings once stood. Although other buildings remain standing they are not habitable and lay victim to graffiti, dust and decay.

    The loss is most poignant at the memorial to the 185 people killed by the quake. Titled '185 Empty White Chairs' it demonstrates the individuality and diversity of those who died. From babies to the elderly, from New Zealanders to Europeans and Asians. As the quake struck at midday when people were outside many were killed by buildings and debris falling onto the streets.

    Nearby stands 'The Cardboard Cathedral', which has been constructed as a transitional place of worship following Christchurch Cathedral being severely damaged. As it's titled indicates, it is partially constructed using cardboard tubing coated in polyurethane. The stained glass triangular panels at the building's face incorporate images from stained glass in the Christchurch Cathedral.

    Historically Christchurch was built to be the most English city outside of England and the architecture and street names reflect this. Unfortunately now it is mostly the street names that remain. Many of the historical structures have been claimed by the quake and those that remain are dressed in steel to keep them standing. Art projects have sprung up to fill some of the open space, which brings a sense of hope for the city's future.    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    13

    Kiwi Exp. - Christchurch to Kaikoura

    7 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    The sombre memories of Christchurch drifted through the mind's eye as we drove along a cold damp East Coast to Kaikoura. We travelled on New Zealand's equivalent of the M1 but it looked more like an A road. Closing in on our destination the road squeezed between cliffs and the Pacific Ocean, turning with the curve of the coastline, going through tunnels when the cliffs refused to give way.

    We passed a statue to Captain Charles Upham, a name neither of us recognised but learnt was New Zealand's most famous soldier and one of only three men to have ever won the Victoria Cross twice (highest military award for valour to British and Commomwealth forces). Captain Upham received these decorations during his service in the Second World War and reading about this and his general character highlighted what a remarkable individual he was. After the war and returning to New Zealand, NZ$10,000 was raised for him to buy a farm. Upham refused and used it as a scholarship fund to send ex-servicemen's sons to university. (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/mili…)

    A steady patter of rain coated Kaikoura as we arrived at our hostel. With most activity either called off or made prohibitive by the steady rain we chose instead to bask in the warmth of the hostel's lounge where blues played from the stereo and wood crackled in the burner. As we lounged Alex found Spotify was finally listing ACDC's albums so he was as happy as a pig in shit for the rest of the afternoon. Here is another playlist of music that has accompanied our journey back north so far (http://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyhas… - this could have been all ACDC had Alex made his discovery in Queenstown) -

    Hozier - Jackie and Wilson
    Rae Morris - Love Again
    Youngblood Hawke - We Come Running
    Kate Tempest - The Beigeness
    Oh Wonder - Technicolour Beat
    Youth Club - People
    Eliza and the Bear - Friends
    Unknown Mortal Orchestra - Can't Keep Checking My Phone
    Sunset Sons - Remember
    Martin Luke Brown - Nostaligia    Meer informatie

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1

    Kiwi Exp. - Kaikoura to Wellington

    8 juli 2015, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    We continued northward along the coastal road, out of Kaikoura and toward Picton, from where we would take the Interislander ferry back to Wellington. On the rocks between the road and the ocean basked hundreds of adult seals, many pointing their noses upward to the rising sun. Behind them the coast rose straight up to mountains where a fresh dusting of snow lay like icing sugar on top of a cake.

    We stopped at Ohau Point to hike up to a waterfall where dozens of seal pups played in its pool. They twisted and splashed in the water, their coats a soft grey before entering and a slick black when exiting. Their dry fur appeared to radiate a softness that you felt without touching and their black pearl eyes gazed back at us from the water and rocks.

    The pups access the pool by a small stream that connects to the ocean and the waterfall acts as a natural nursery for them whilst their parents go out to hunt. Although we have already seen seals during our time in New Zealand, it was a memorable experience seeing such creatures so close in the wild.

    Onward we travelled to our ferry and the weather reported heavy swells for the crossing. Given the seasickness that we had both experienced on the crossing South we came prepared with seasickness tablets and a plan to remain downstairs at the back of the boat. True to forecast, the crossing was rough as we moved out into the Cook Straight. The ferry shuddered as if braking hard as its hull battled with the swell. Rolling waves rocked the boat to stagger passengers and roll table top items. All the while Kiwi passengers cheered on their gods in black as televisions showed the All Blacks playing Samoa.

    Fortunately the tablets worked brilliantly and for all the drama caused by the sea we came through unscathed. Walking the streets of Wellington brought a sense of deja vous. Although we were last in the city 3 weeks ago, it felt longer with everything we had done. Neither would we linger as tomorrow we would travel further North to continue to final stages of our New Zealand adventure.    Meer informatie

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