• Ladyandtramp

Mexico & New Zealand - 2019/20

From the known to the unknown. Meer informatie
  • A Non-Existent Petrified Field

    30 december 2019, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    In the tourist brochures that we have read about Mascota, a petrified field called Malpais is mentioned as being a place to visit.

    From a Puerto Vallarta tourist information website it says:

    “The petrified field at El Malpaís is located a mile northeast of Mascota. It is said that during a day of strong volcanic activity the whole place was covered with ashes and lava. There is a legend that states that people have found a fruit orchard in the middle of the fields, they'd eat some of the fruit and later when they'd try to find the place again, they couldn't.”

    For the past week, we have wanted to see that field. One farmer asked us if we were talking about
    the pile of black rocks. I guess that we were. One brochure even said that the area was a park.

    So today, we walked to the park. At one time, the whole area that we were walking in was owned by a landlord who had a hacienda called San Nicolas. Now the hacienda is pretty run down and several families live in the remains of the big, old house. But just up the road, there are many lovely homes built on sizeable properties. There are some very nice cabins that can be rented also. The views are beautiful.

    As we walked past a treehouse with a satellite dish and a big deck, two dogs decided to join us - a black lab and a small white dog. That was cool. They led the way.

    Well, we walked and walked. No petrified field in sight. Lots of cows and horses and farmlands... nothing petrified. Finally we reached the end of the road. We couldn’t go any farther.

    A farmer was working in his field and he came over to talk to us. He told us that the land was private and there was no park. He figured that it was information to draw people to the area but a park certainly didn’t exist. Hmmmn

    He was a really nice guy though and asked us if we had felt the 4.7 earthquake that shook buildings for 5 seconds last night. Nope we didn’t. Maybe we did but thought that it was a truck rumbling by on the cobblestone road. I checked though and he was right.

    He proceeded to tell us all about the history of the area and about the government and all sorts of other things. I guess that he was dying to talk to someone. He did live out in the boonies. We couldn’t take the biting flies or mosquitoes anymore so said adios and walked back home along that lovely road.

    All in all, we walked 9.75 km. It definitely was not a 1 mile walk north of Mascota! And ... no petrified field... It’s Mexico...
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  • Happy New Year 2020!

    1 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    On New Year’s Eve, Mascota gears up for night time festivities like every place that we have been. A dance in the plaza has been planned with a local band playing and lots of fireworks at midnight.

    Silvia, the lady who cleans our apartment and in general handles any issues we may run into, came at 10 a.m. to change our sheets, bring fresh towels and clean. She is a sweet lady who doesn’t speak any English but she is very kind and helpful. When she comes, we usually head out for a walk so that we aren’t in her way.

    Our landlords, Margarita and Andres, live in Guadalajara but are in Mascota visiting family for a
    few days. They stay in their big house behind our apartment. As we were going out, we met them and thanked them for the raicilla. They asked us how we had enjoyed our time in this town and then asked if we wanted to join them for the afternoon at their family’s ranch in the mountains.

    What a great offer and one that we could not refuse. Their nephew, Chuy, drove us all up, past the Mocajete volcano and onto a side road to a lovely spot overlooking a series of distant mountains and valleys. What a view!

    The family had purchased the property ( seven acres of avocado trees ) and built a beautiful main house there. They all have construction backgrounds so are now in the process of building several rustic cabins for visitors.

    The main house looked out over a pond full of fish, surrounded by a forest of oak and pine trees.
    Dogs, cats, chickens and geese lived together with the family in harmony.

    Margarita and Andre’s 3 nephews and their families are all working together to create this little piece of paradise and what an accomplishment! The oldest nephew, Roberto, is married and his wife is a wonderful artist. Her handiwork can be seen all over the house - paintings, sculptures, decorations, etc.

    After a tour of their place, we were invited to sit at a large table under the veranda, to continue our Spanglish conversations about life in Mascota and Mexico and Canada. We all got along so well together and really enjoyed our time together. The men cut and chopped up small pieces of bass, tomatoes, cucumbers and onions to make a huge bowl full of delicious ceviche. Another huge bowl had marinated shrimp. It all went down easily with Mexican beer - Modelo and Corona.

    We had a wonderful conversation with Roberto’s son who is in his 5th out of eight years studying to be a Catholic priest. Quite a young man. Roberto’s daughter joined us a little later and was just just as lovely.

    We had met Chuy before, as he had come to the apartment to fix a few things up. He spoke
    English quite well as he had worked in the U.S., along with his two other brothers. His son, another
    Chuy was quiet yet interested in learning about life in Canada.

    We were privileged to have shared the last afternoon in 2019 with this warm and friendly family. They live in a Utopia of their making and we wish them the best in all future endeavours.

    By the time that we got home, the sun was setting and it looked liked Mascota’s centre was ready for the big night.

    We decided to stay in (old foggies) and watch a movie on our one English movie channel before going to bed. Thank heavens, it was a good one! At midnight, the ruckus began with bells ringing and fireworks booming. Our balcony patio was the perfect place to watch the streaming ‘shooting stars’ and the big colourful sunbursts.

    Happy New Year 2020!
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  • Rain, Rain and More Rain.

    1 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We went out for a quick breakfast, along with lots of other people, to a restaurant in the Mercado.
    And as we were coming home it started to rain, and man did it ever rain! It didn’t let up for 22 hours. We were so happy that we had good books to read and enough food for meals.

    The roads here are cobblestone and there are no sewer grates. The streets have been built so that the water runs down in the streets in rivers to other streets and then down to the river. At cross roads, the streets become little lakes. It was something to see. Chris said he wanted to look for an ark.

    As we didn’t have any sun, it got pretty cold too. Our apartment has solar panels so we didn’t even
    attempt to have a shower. Brrr.
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  • Last Day in Mascota

    2 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Well, today is our last day in Mascota. There are several places that we would have liked to have visited but we can’t do everything that we’d like to do, in three weeks.

    The Sierra Lago resort, high in the mountains sounds like a gorgeous place to visit with its lovely cabins and beautiful mountain top lake. The little town of Navidad with its famous homemade ice cream and people of French background. The 7 hour circuit through the mountains to all sorts of hidden towns, lakes and volcanoes. Also to San Sebastien, an old mining town, that has been left behind in time with its mountain and mirador called La Bufa. The verb bufar is the sound that bulls or horses make, a kind of snorting sound. It is called La Bufa because when the wind blows in the mountains there, it sounds like snorting.

    We walked to the bus station and bought our tickets to Puerto Vallarta, where we will meet our friends before taking a taxi to Chacala, Nayarit. Then wandered around to say goodbye to Silvia, our maid, Andreas in the coffee shop, the pharmacist who walks his dog up the mountain to the cross every day, Manuel, the tourist information guy in the centro, Ruben the belt and saddle maker, the tortilla ladies, the ice cream maker on the corner, and so many more. It has been easy making friends with the warm and friendly people who live here.

    While we were in the centre, we met an artist from the States who was looking forward to teaching a landscaping course in Mascota, Thomas Van Stine. He won’t have trouble finding beautiful places to paint!

    Fifteen minutes later we met Jonathan Dahl, an editor and chief of the Wall Street Journal, who was on tour from Vallarta to Talpa. The tour group had an hour stop in Mascota and we think that in the short time that Jonathan was here, he fell under Mascota’s charm, as we have.

    Chris did a last walkabout, while I cleaned out the fridge and did some housekeeping, and then we went out for a dinner at our favourite restaurant, El Tapanco (the loft). The owner is Italian so we had his tasty lasagna with a salad, and a beer for $7 Cdn. That included the tax and tip. Where can we get a delicious meal for that price at home? Even making it at home would cost more!

    We have really enjoyed being here and wish Mascota and its residents a prosperous New Year!

    But we are looking forward to a new adventure with our friends Pat and Gail in the small beach
    town of Chacala in the state of Nayarit.
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  • Leaving the Mountains for a Beach Town

    3 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today is a travel day, but the bus didn’t leave until 1:45 p.m., so we had the morning to have breakfast at La Abuela and then do a final round of the town.

    The bus to Puerto Vallarta was right on time, but packed to the gills. Some people stood for the full three hours of the trip. We bought our tickets a day earlier so we were fine. Someone suggested that we get off at Los Juntos as it would save us an extra hour on the bus and would cost less to get to the airport. Great advice.

    Pat and Gail’s airplane arrived at 5:15, so we waited for them at the Tacon de Marlin, the same burrito restaurant that we had eaten in 3 weeks earlier. Their first place from Bellingham to Seattle had been cancelled a few hours before they were supposed to leave so their grandson, Patrick, drove them to Seattle and they were able to continue on with their flight from there.

    As always, our meetings are great and then eating a big shrimp burrito and drinking a Victoria beer before heading to Chacala, was great. Domingo, the cab driver waited for us and did a great job driving on the busy highway north. The traffic was unbelievable. It was like being on a major highway at rush hour. It is Friday night and the last weekend of Christmas holidays so that explains why there was so much traffic.

    It was a lot warmer on the coast and we enjoyed seeing the beautiful red sunset as we travelled.
    Chacala is tiny, not far from the bigger town of Las Varas. It doesn’t have an ATM machine, a pharmacy or a bread store, but it does have a beautiful beach and restaurants galore. We can buy almost anything that we need here which is great. Combis (vans) go to Las Varas all the time, if we need special items.

    Our apartment is at the edge of town so it is quiet, being a little ways from the action. At the same time, it is a very short walk to the beach and the dock.

    We are sharing a 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment on the 2nd floor with a very large patio and access to a small swimmming pool on the main level. There are lots of birds and butterflies and we can see the ocean. Thank you P and G for finding this comfy place for us to share. Leonor, the landlady, keeps the place very clean and well equipped.

    We are looking forward to a relaxing 3 week stay here, with our old friends, before our 2 month road trip in New Zealand.

    Note: I forgot to publish this earlier. But here it is - almost 2 weeks late!
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  • Lazy days...

    5 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Believe it or not, Chris and I have never stayed for an extended time in a beach town. This was going to be a new experience for us.

    Pat and Gail have been here before and since Pat grew up in a beach town in California, he loves the ocean, surfing, swimming and snorkelling. Chacala is the perfect place for this. Gail loves the calm areas of the beach for swimming and Chacala has that too. We are fortunate that they found this wonderful little place and we can share it with them.

    There are lots of Americans and Canadians here, mostly from the west coast. They know each other so there is always someone who will arrange pickle ball games in the early morning, ukulele group meets in the late morning, dinner parties or meetups at restaurants, little group driving or hiking trips, seeing the sunsets while drinking margaritas at a nearby restaurant, etc. Always something going on, if you want to be busy.

    Pat and Gail know us well enough, so we don’t always have to do things together but it is fun to
    have options.

    On Sundays, a terrific brunch is offered in a little shaded and secluded area at the end of the
    beach. We all went there for the first time and loved it! Gourmet food and mimosas on the beach. Ahhhh. As added entertainment we watched a whale breaching in the distance. Pretty exciting!

    A group decision was made. We have all agreed to go there every Sunday.
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  • Up the Volcano for Beautiful Views

    7 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We are in ‘relax mode’. What can I say? So what have we been doing?

    The day before yesterday we just did relaxing things. Nothing strenuous.

    Pat and Gail have returned to their pickle ball games on a rough basketball court with several other gringos. It gets hot here during the day so 7 a.m. is a good time to play. I watched a few games and everyone was having fun. A few falls though...as mentioned, the court is rough.

    Chris went with PnG to a ukulele practice with about 8 people. That was fun.

    We have gone swimming on this beautiful beach several times. The sand is lovely and the town prides itself in keeping the beach clean. Yesterday was the last day of Christmas holidays, so today the beach was very quiet.

    Oh, we have eaten several times in the beachfront palapas. Inexpensive and delicious, especially the vegetarian omelets and green smoothies.

    This morning, we decided to walk to the rim of a nearby ancient volcano. We set out at around 7 a.m., after watching a beautiful sunrise, and drinking a coffee on our rooftop patio.

    It was a pleasant walk with lots of birds to look at. At the top, we discovered a tiny ‘offering’ on the trail.

    Once we left the shade of the jungly trail, it started to get pretty hot and we were hungry. So, we stopped at a beachside palapa restaurant and ordered their famous vegetarian omelet with beans, a coffee and a green juice. Delicious and the added bonus of watching the waves in the ocean. We enjoyed the slow service. Nothing moves very fast here!

    The walk through the jungle to the top of the rim of the volcano was very pleasant. We saw lots of birds and interesting plants. The views at the top were lovely. At times, the crater fills up with water and a lake appears.
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  • Market Day in La Peñita

    9 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Visiting a Tianguis in Mexico is a must. And it just happens that every Thursday an open-air tianguis market is held in a town not far from Chacala called La Peñita. People come from miles around to attend this weekly market and the four of us were there too.

    We caught a taxi at 8 a.m. and within a half an hour, we were walking the streets of La Peñita. The market was at the bottom of the Main Street near the ocean and it was big.

    And what were they selling? A little bit of everything. From local artists displaying silver and handmade jewelry, glassware, pottery, Oaxacan wool rugs and the famous Huichol Indian beaded artwork – to vendors with carts of nuts and berries, homemakers selling fresh pastries and linens, tshirts and beach wear, and pickup trucks with poblano peppers and watermelons – you name it, they’ve got it. I have read that this market is one of the largest and most well-known markets in the area.

    We wandered around, bought a few things, went to the beach to watch the entertaining pelicans and frigate birds and then had a pleasant lunch on a breezy second floor patio.

    On the way to the taxi stand, we stopped and picked up a roast chicken for dinner.

    We negotiated with a taxi driver to take us directly to Chacala. Usually the trip would include a change in taxis in Las Varas, but we were dropped off right in our town. It was a good thing as it is a hot day and the sooner we could get into the ocean for a swim, the better.

    And that’s what we did!
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  • The Muelle (Dock) and Making Ceviche

    11 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    In 1524, 32 years after Columbus’ trip, Hernán Cortés' nephew Spaniard Francisco Cortés de Buena Ventura arrived in the Chacala bay. A long time before that, it was inhabitated by the Tecoxquin (sometimes referred to as the Throat cutters) from approximately 2000 to 2300 BC. They left petroglyphs in nearby places.

    The indigenous who lived here when Cortés came, were mainly fishermen and farmers . They also traded salt and cotton and coaco.

    Chacala was a small commercial port in the 1800s (coffee) but didn’t become a big port like San Blas or Puerto Vallarta did. The old port is still used by local fisherman who go out early in the morning to catch shrimp and all sorts of other fish.

    The muelle is at the end of the street and so we went down in the morning to see what was being brought in. The shrimp boats had come in because we had heard the vendors over loud speakers announcing that we could buy shrimp off the truck going around town.

    The whole area is very picturesque with boats bobbing in the water, pelicans and other seabirds flying from one perch to another and fisherman doing their thing.

    A big table is set up in the shade where fishermen can clean their catch. They throw the carcasses back into the water for the other fish and the pelicans to eat. I asked what kind of fish they were cleaning and was told Toro (Bullfish) and Truche del Arrife (Reef Trout). I asked what kind of fish is good for making ceviche and was told that a fish called Cochito Bota (Triggerfish) was the one to use.

    They didn’t have a fresh fish but they did have a kilogram frozen package. It was the perfect size so we bought it, thawed it in cold water and made a delicious ceviche.

    Basic Ceviche Recipe

    1 pound whitefish, cut into bite-size pieces
    6-8 squeezed limes
    Couple of tomatoes, seeded and diced
    1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
    1/3 cup diced green or red bell pepper (optional)
    chopped onion
    1 jalapeno pepper, chopped, or to taste
    4 cloves garlic, minced
    salt and ground black pepper to taste
    Directions
    Place fish into a flat dish; cover with lime juice. Chill fish in refrigerator until tender and opaque, at least 3 hours. Drain lime juice.
    Mix tomato, cilantro, green bell pepper, onion, jalapeno pepper, garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl; add fish and stir. Chill in refrigerator until flavors blend, about 1 hour.
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  • Friday Brewery & Saturday Organic Market

    11 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We have been in Chacala for a week, and one month in Mexico. How the time has flown!

    Every Friday and Saturday evenings , a little craft brew pub called Onda Brewing opens at 6 p.m. It is family friendly and features a changing list of brews from local and sourced ingredients. The brewers and staff live in Chacala and made our a visit feel like we were dropping in to a gathering of friends and family. The group were mostly, if not all gringos.

    Besides beer, they also made a wonderful ginger/rum drink called the Gengiberator. (Gengibre is ginger).
    Delicious. We shared a meat and cheese platter and then moved on to Las Brisas restaurant for a tasty shrimp taco dinner before returning home.

    Chacala is a tiny town and everything is so close by. The laundromat lady, Mary, is steps away. Today she washed and folded our clothes for 40 pesos, or $2.78 Cdn. The vegetable stand is a 5 minute walk away.

    The beach is also only 5 minutes away. Very good beach restaurants and taco stands are just a few minutes away too. What makes things interesting are the little places that just open on certain days, like the pub, a Sunday brunch place, the Pozole soup stands, and weekend roast chicken stands. Always something special to look forward too.

    This morning, we all did our own thing for an hour or two early in the day when it was cool. Chris hiked up the volcano, Pat boogie boarded as the waves were high, Gail played pickle ball and I walked to the muelle (dock) where the fishermen were.

    On Saturdays, an organic market comes to town. We fill our fridge with the fresh veggies that we get there - lettuce, bok choy, spinach, kale, mushrooms, radishes, and our freezer with homemade buns. Other stands set up too with jewellery, clothes, sarongs, rugs and art, but it is on a small scale.

    The photos show Gail as she shops for veggies and bread at the organic market.
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  • Las Varas

    13 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    As I have mentioned before, Chacala is a tiny beach town. If we need to use the bank or a pharmacy, or want to buy something more than basic, we need to go into the bigger town of Las Varas. Chris and I decided to take a combi, van, into Las Varas to see what it had to offer.

    The town is less than 12 km from Chacala. Las Varas was originally a hacienda (estate) and only formally became a pueblo in 1935. Sometime, we would like to find the hacienda house, if it still exists.

    Las Varas is located on the main highway between Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan and where many different roads that lead to the various beaches of Riviera Nayarit meet. So it is a pretty busy place.

    Primarily dedicated to agriculture, the town is surrounded by fields of beans and tobacco as well as fruit orchards - banana, guayabana, avocado, pineapple, lime, orange, noni, papaya, star fruit.

    We really didn’t do a lot in town but enjoyed walking around. The town square is nice but there isn’t really any shade which is too bad. In more towns, the town square is a great place to people watch under big old trees. The palm trees here were pretty small so the square was hot.

    I had read about a museum, but no one knew about it. Finally we asked at the library and we were told that they used to have one but a museum in Tepic had taken all of their artifacts and put them on display there.

    Someone has recommended a good, clean restaurant called Angelita’s so we headed there for lunch. It lived up to its reputation. We had a delicious beef taco lunch with giant limonadas.

    Roast chicken bbqed over charcoal was being cooked so we bought a chicken, rice, onions, hot peppers and salsa to take home for dinner with Pat and Gail. We couldn’t resist, it smelled so good. (It tasted good too.)

    Then, we visited an ATM and went back to the corner to pick up a combi home.

    Even though Las Varas is a busy economic centre, it has a nice Mexican feel with very few gringos. Many of the people we talked to were missing teeth and were genuinely curious about us and interested in talking to us or helping us out. It was a pleasant outing.

    Note: more photos of Las Varas to come later...
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  • Altavista Petroglyphs Pt. 1 - The Hike

    14 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    How could we be in an area known for its petroglyphs and not visit a site filled with ancient engravings, that was only a 30 minute drive away?

    We decided to hire a guide, Chuy, who also knows a lot about birds, to drive us to the area and explain what we were seeing. The area is well-known but not a very touristy site. In fact, we only saw one other little group when we were there. People who aren’t willing or able to scramble over big rocks shouldn’t go.

    Chuy picked us up at 7 a.m., when it is cooler, and off we went. The road to the site from the highway is not marked so I am not sure we would have found it on our own. The road and trail to the stones was very picturesque so I made one footprint for the walk and one for the petroglyphs that we saw.

    Now a little history, taken from signs posted along the way ...

    The Tecoxquines, (Throat Cutters), who were the forefathers of the Aztecs, engraved images in volcanic stone over two thousand years ago. These petroglyphs may have been symbolic elements of everyday life, as far as health, fertility, rains, and crops. The rock carvings might have been meant as prayers or offerings to the gods responsible for these things.

    After the Spanish conquest, the Tecoxquines were completely annihilated by epidemics and forced labor. Today native people of the region still talk about "white Indians," ghosts appearing from the mountains to honor their ancient gods.

    The 200 acre archaeological site is located along the sides of a creek on the side of the Copo volcano. Chuy parked the car and we walked through fruit tree orchards on farm roads to the river. There were lots of birds to see and identify with Chuy’s help.

    Once we got to the river, we had to negotiate the big boulders that were strewn along the sides of the river. Chuy would stop, point out the carvings and explain the meanings of the designs that were on the top and the sides of the big rocks.

    Spirals, wavy lines, and other symbols carved in the rocks were probably a ritual prayer language for the gods. As an agricultural culture, the Tocoxquines would have been concerned with rain, fertility of the land and the timing of the seasons that they relied on.

    While the exact meaning of symbols will never be known, spirals have been interpreted as the Sun, a storm, the wind, the spiral snake, or as a symbol of the natural cycle of rainy and dry days.
    Chuy showed us a large rock filled with engravings, that was a possible map of the area.

    So many petroglyphs. I think that there are over 2,000!

    Eventually, we came to the Pila del Rey, or King’s Fountain, and what a beautiful place that was. But you can see the photos. An amazingly lovely grotto of basalt rocks. It is still used by the Huichol people during the solstices. We saw offerings and ribbons in the trees. No wonder the area was picked as a ceremonial centre. As our daughter said, it looks like a movie set.
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  • A Weekly ‘Hole in the Wall’ Restaurant

    15 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Chabela, a lady who lives across the street from us, opens up her home every Wednesday to serve a Mexican meal for 10 - 20 people. She posts the time and the menu and puts a sign-up sheet on her door.

    Last week, we ate a chicken mole dish and this week, we had either a shrimp or beef Chile Relleno dish with beans, rice and salad. Jugs of guayabana juice are set on the table, and serviettes and cutlery handed out. Then we get real Mexican home-cooked food that she prepares in her kitchen. The grill is on for warming up tortillas.

    Three long tables with chairs are set up in her patio. Her dog and a cat walk under the tables freely. And everyone talks. It’s like a big family gathering.

    This week, we took a few photos of the experience.
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  • Chacalilla Priv. Beach & Gated Community

    16 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    A week of Ukulele workshops with James Hill is planned for the last week in January. Of course, Gail and Pat are involved in the ukulele programs which appear to be lots of fun for the 20 participants coming from the U.S. Chris and I are leaving for New Zealand during this week so will not be attending but know that everyone will enjoy Chacala.

    James Hill’s mother-in-law, Dorothy, stays in Chacala during winters and we have met her on several occasions. She invited our gang for an afternoon visit to Chacalilla, a gated community on a secluded, peaceful beach, where she lives.

    The eight of us sat in the shade under palm trees, swam in the turquoise water and drank cervezas. The life...

    Then we walked to Dorothy and Bruce’s house, had a guided tour and ate the club house’s tasty french fries, and Lola’s guacamole and tostadas. The house is built in a jungle so we slathered ourselves with repellant and enjoyed watching the hummingbirds and other jungle birds flit through the trees.
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  • Zacualpan

    17 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We wanted to go back to the bustling town of Las Varas so that Pat and Gail could use the ATM and get some anti-itch stuff for the noseeums here. The hot weather has brought them out early and they are hungry. Chris wanted a haircut and we needed to check on buses to San Blas where we are going next week.

    Well, no point in staying too long in Las Varas when there are other towns we can visit, one being Zacualpan. We heard that this is a small town with 4,000-5,000 people. Most of the people living there are farmers or support the farming community. There is a pretty square and a lovely church.

    So, we caught a combi to Las Varas watched a young man with 10 fingers juggle machetes, and then took another combi to Zacualpan. The towns are not that far apart. We went past fields of tobacco, beans, tomatoes, cucumbers and watermelons until we came to the arches at the entrance of the town.

    It is a small town but does have a well-kept and active square. The bandshell in the middle was brightly painted and the old stone benches were also painted by individual families. A sign advertised the old hacienda that had once been in this area and owned by the Santana family.

    It was lunchtime and there was a taco stand with delicious beef, chorizo or goat fillings, as well as a goat stew, soup called Birria. We filled ourselves with the tacos and a Jamaica (HIbiscus flower) drink and listened as the animated waitress told us about the scary spirits who came out at night. Also about the old coins that were hidden inside the walls of the adobe houses. Treasures yet to be found!

    She also told us that there was a museum and we went looking for it after grabbing a Michoacan ice cream bar. The museum was actually an outdoor garden with several large stones with petroglyphs but the area was locked. We think that it was on the site of the old hacienda.

    Chris noticed a girl cutting hair so he asked if he could get a 2 finger scissor, rather than razor, haircut. His hair was 5 fingers long. Haha. She did a great job with his hair and charged him 40 pesos, or $2.80 Cdn.

    Gail and I walked around the outskirts of the town and everyone was friendly. The houses were definitely very old, many of them just one room. Lots of tractors and farm implements were on the rough cobblestone streets.

    The church with its stained glass windows and loaded with flowers, was airy and very nicely taken care of.

    The kids were all starting to come home from school and the old ranchers were meeting up with their buddies in the square.

    We jumped on a combi and headed back to Las Varas and then Chacala. It was a great way to spend a few hours away from the beach.
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  • Opening of a New Bakery

    17 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We met a wonderful couple who sell bread at the Saturday organic market in Chacala. Their bread is delicious. They mentioned that they will be opening a tiny bakery very close to our apartment and next door to the laundromat. It is an exciting time for them.

    Today, the bakery opened its doors and we went to visit it.
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  • Music and Dancing at a Tapas Bar

    18 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We heard that a very good band was playing Cuban Music at a little weekend Tapas Bar on Saturday night so we made plans to go for dinner and then enjoy some good music.

    Service was slow but we weren’t in a hurry. The music that started at 7 p.m. was excellent and Gail did a lot of dancing!

    We went home at 9 p.m. which is called the Chacala MIdnight. Haha. The place was packed with old geezers. One guy took a photo and then fell over. Someone called out that he was a Rock and Roller.
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  • Ladies’ Art Show

    19 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    From 2 - 5 p.m., some lady artists had an art show of their work in the Chacala Cultural Centre. They sold their art and profits went to supporting the centre. We forgot our phone so Gail took some photos for this footprint. We especially liked the photography on flowy nylon material.Meer informatie

  • Overnight in San Blas

    20 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    If you've heard of San-Blas, you've probably heard about the bugs. The mosquitos aren't too bad, but the jejenes, sand flies or no-see-ums, can be brutal for some people. I tend to be the bug magnet for the group, but there is no way that a trip to this buggy place was going to deter me. San Blas has a wonderful reputation for the birds that live there (because of the bugs) and the river tour sounded wonderful.

    The good news is the bugs generally hang out down at the beach and are usually not too bad in the afternoons. They don't come out if there's a breeze. They come out mostly in the mornings, and late afternoons.

    So, having taken Vitamin B for a week and armed with bug spray, we caught the 11:30 Nayar bus from Las Varas to San Blas. Anticipating wiggly roads, I took a 1/4 of a gravol and was happy that I did that. Gail and Chris felt a little queasy and we were all happy when we arrived in San Blas.

    San Blas is a small fishing village of about 12,000 people on the Pacific Coast of Mexico located between Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan. There are no condos here, no major resort hotels, no shopping malls, no freeways, no golf courses and no stoplights. You don't need a car to get around. It is flat, so you can walk or take a bike around town, and buses run everywhere in Mexico.

    For such a small town, San Blas has really left a mark. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote a poem about it called The Bells of San Blas. There is brass plaque with one of the verses on the very old church in the centro.
    “But to me, a dreamer of dreams,
    To whom what is and what seems
    Are often one and the same,
    The Bells of San Blas to me
    Have a strange, wild melody,
    And are something more than a name.”

    We heard that was a movie filmed in San Blas - Cabeza de Vaca - and we saw a part of the set in the river. There is also a hit song from the rock group Mana called El Muelle de San Blas.

    San Blas has also been in the international news several times. In 2002 San Blas was hit head on with Hurricane Keena, a category 5 hurricane. Much of the town was damaged or destroyed. We didn’t notice any evidence of the damage.

    In 2006, three fishermen from this area were rescued on a boat near the Marshall Islands after 9 months lost as sea. There was even an article in the New Yorker about them entitled The Castaways.

    We had done a little research regarding small clean hotels and immediately found Hotel Familia, about two blocks from the square. It had been a large house in the 1890’s, and the same family owns it but they have renovated it and now rent out the bedrooms. They also have a little restaurant in the front. Old world charm with a lush courtyard garden.

    Being pretty hungry, we flagged down a taxi and went to a beachside restaurant for some fresh seafood. It was a nice breezy spot with a musician who occasionally played some traditional music. Vendors casually sold beaded jewellery and coconut figures. They weren’t aggressive.

    The music encouraged Pat and Gail to waltz and some other Mexican women to easily coax an elderly chiclet vendor to dance with them. Well, he turned out to be quite the dancer. He even led a Congo line around the tables. He looked like a sailor to me and we learned that he was 100 years old!

    Little did we know, but an International bird festival was being held in San Blas during this week and lots of activities had been planned. Bird artwork was on display, daily afternoon children’s programs were offered and evening concerts were being held in the square.

    We walked around town but it was hot . No bugs though. Yay! We stopped in for refreshing drinks at the McDonalds bar. (Our friends’ last name is MacDonald. Close. As we were relaxing, two young boys came by with a big bag. We were not sure if they wanted us to buy what was in the bag or if they were joking. They opened it up carefully and there was a really big snake in the bag - a python! They actually said that it could be a pet or it could be eaten... They fed it mice.

    Dinner was a few tasty tacos on the square before the concert began. The staff in the restaurant used a gel bug repellent that they recommended. They sold us a few containers (Stanhope Healthy Care) and it really seemed to work for me.

    Tonight, a Rap Battle was on the agenda. Chris and I plopped ourselves down in the audience and totally enjoyed the skill that the young men had as they ‘battled’ against different opponents, with different background music and themes pulled from the audience. One theme that came up was about chocolate milk and another was about guacamole!!! People were laughing out loud. It was too hard for us to understand even though we got the gist of the battles. The audience as well as two judges declared the winners of each battle.

    We returned to the hotel and noticed an old man on a 4 wheel drive vehicle playing classical music. He would stop occasionally and play his violin to the music and then move on. Was it a statement or just something he liked to share with others...

    It was a fun day full of interesting experiences. And best of all, no bites!
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  • Tovara River Birding

    21 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our hotel had very thick, old walls and good air conditioning so we had a very peaceful night. A light breakfast of coffee, toast, jam, fruit and cookies was served outside of our door at 7 a.m. and then we headed out to see some birds.

    The reason that we came to San Blas was to go on a river cruise up the Tovar’s River to see some of the many birds that inhabit this area.

    First a taxi ride to the dock area.

    Then an hour and a half slow boat trip starting out in a wonderful mangrove swamp. The guide helped to point out and identify the various tropical birds, alligators, turtles and iguanas that live in this natural habitat.

    We didn’t write down the names of the birds that we saw but I remember that we did spot several boat-billed herons, kingfishers, flycatchers, woodpeckers, doves, ibis, a great white heron, swallows, an osprey, vultures, chachalacas, anhingas and more. This area is home to more than 300 species of migratory and local bird species. In fact, over 80% of the migratory birds come here during the winter months from North America, making San Blas, Mexico’s best, ‘undisputed’ birding location. That is why birders have come from all over for the International Birding Festival that was being held in the town.

    One of our favourite moments occurred when we were watching up-close, a tree full of swallows. They didn’t seem bothered by us and then in a ‘puff’ all of them flew away. It was like watching a giant dandelion seed puffball had been blown upon. Very magical.

    We continued on and came to an open area where part of the Cabeza de Vaca movie set remained - little houses on stilts in the river.

    Eventually, we arrived at a swimming hole (which is fenced in securely, as it is in the same river as the crocodiles!), and our driver let us off for an hour to swim, lounge or grab a snack at the small restaurant. The water in the river was warm but refreshing and we had the whole swimming hole to ourselves.

    The guide returned and we had a fun speedy boat ride back to the docks. The excursion was well-worth the $10 Cdn admission.

    On the back to town, we thought about getting out of the combi and walking to the Contaduria fort, built in 1760. We changed our minds when we realized that we had to hike up a steep hill in the early afternoon heat. I guess that it will be something new to do if we ever visit San Blas again. The fort was also a counting house for the Spanish and has quite the history.

    When we got back to town, we had to wait around a bit for the bus, which gave us time for a lunch in the square and time to people watch. Kids were getting out of school so it is always fun to see what they are up to. Gail had time to get a haircut and I went on a successful search for postcards for our grandkids and stamps.

    Just before catching the bus, we took a 1/4 of a gravol which made our trip back to Las Varas on the Nayar bus, easy. Then a taxi to Chacala. We didn’t feel like making dinner so a ‘hamburger and fries’ dinner at the Surfer Boys restaurant was next on our agenda. We are so spoiled. On the way home we picked up our washed, dried and folded laundry ($2.80 cdn).

    Mexico ... With a little patience, a few dollars, no expectations of perfection and a ‘go with the flow’ attitude, you can have a pretty good life here.
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  • 3 nights in Puerto Vallarta

    26 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Since our short trip to San Blas, we just hung out for 5 days and did beachy things with Pat and Gail, and apartment neighbours, Van and Lola, in Chacala. They are from Bellingham also and Lola has been busy getting things ready for the ukulele workshops. Gail will be running jam sessions during the workshops and Pat will be a gopher. So lots of excitement as everyone around us prepares to do their part. James Hill, the ukulele guru from Nova Scotia, arrived with his family and is staying with his mother-in-law, Dorothy. Chacala is small, so communication is pretty good.

    On Sunday, after a significant Saturday rainstorm, all of us packed up and got ready for the next segments of our trip. It’s always a little sad to say goodbye but we know we will meet up sometime in the future. We just don’t where! It has been a fun 3 weeks with our old friends.

    Pat and Gail moved into a hotel for a week and we got a bus to Vallarta. It was an extremely easy 2 hour trip to the bus terminal near the airport. We paid a taxi driver 200 pesos to take us right to our hotel, Hotel Eloisha, in the Old Town. Quick and easy!

    I picked the hotel because it is in an interesting part of town, was a reasonable price, and at the far end of the malecon. There is a park directly across the road and the hotel has a rooftop patio and small swimming pool with a good view of the ocean. A light breakfast is served in the mornings.

    We arrived before check-in time and we were offered available rooms. We actually chose an indoor room that ended up having a bit of a septic smell, so after the first night, they moved us to a room overlooking the park with a nice sunny balcony. We enjoyed watching the activities in the park. The huge patio on the rooftop was a great place to hangout and the pool was just right.

    Walking on the malecon was a daily treat. One day, we stood and watched a big pod of whales spouting and causing waves. Another day, we watched a very tanned man stack large and small rocks, one on top of another. Quite the balancing act. There are lots of wonderful restaurants so one night we took a break from tacos and pozole and had a pasta dinner in an Italian restaurant with wonderful service and excellent food. I think it was called Dolce Vita. Another afternoon, we ate two Mexican favourites of ours - a guacamole and Molcajete - at a nearby place called Margaritaville.

    We had a final laundry run before packing up and I got my hair cut. Mexican prices and service are the best!!! Our boarding passes for Our flight to L.A. were printed off in a nearby cyber cafe and we bought some didactic games for our grandkids at the Book Fair that was going on.

    We loved the convenience of everything. We will miss Mexico...
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  • Mosaic Project in Lazaro Cardenas Park

    28 januari 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Right across the street from the Eloisha Hotel,there is a very active community park. The day that we arrived, there was a Ceviche Festival. Every morning, a large group of people have a Zumba class at 8 a.m. Folk dancers perform in the evening and musicians play. We were very impressed by an interesting and beautiful mosaic project that is ongoing. All the concrete park benches and pillars and walls are being covered with colourful mosaics - a huge project that volunteers are encouraged to take part in.

    Have a look at some of the many benches already completed.
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  • Puerto Vallarta to Auckland

    29 januari 2020, Nieuw-Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The big travel day has arrived - 10,500 km. of flights!

    The past six weeks in Mexico have been everything that we thought that it would be. Three weeks in the traditional ‘magic’ village of Mascota in the mountains, three weeks on the beach with our friends in Chacala and a weekend in a bustling tourist city, Puerto Vallarta. As they say, ‘Variety is the spice of life’, and we have enjoyed many spices on this trip.

    We always look for flight options/deals when we travel. I found that we could fly to Auckland from Puerto Vallarta using Air Alaska (P.V. To L.A.) and then connect to Fiji Airlines (L.A. to Nadi to Auckland). By looking up each leg of the trip separately, I found that I could save a significant amount of money and the new times for departure worked better for us. Once again, it was less expensive to book separate flights for the trip to Auckland and home to Toronto (not round trip).

    We left P.V. by taxi at 11:30 a.m. after our last leisurely, inexpensive and tasty breakfast in Mexico. The ride from Old Vallarta to the airport cost a standard 200 pesos. We didn’t have bags to check-in and we had our boarding passes so we were in the departure lounge in no time.

    The flight to L.A. took 3 hours, but it was pretty bumpy. The poor lady sitting next to us was not feeling well at all. She was so happy when we were down on firm land.

    The L.A. Airport is big and we had to find Fiji Airways but we had lots of time as we had a 6 hour wait for our flight to Fiji. While we people-watched, we noticed face masks of all shapes and sizes.
    People from Asia were being held in a secure room for screenings with a ‘no entry’ sign on the door. Everyone is afraid of the Coronovirus that is spreading quickly in China. We were concerned too, as we were going to be confined in a plane for 10 hours.

    At 10:30 p.m., we took off and were impressed by the organization and care that the flight attendants offered on Fiji Airways. They even gave Chris and I masks when one of the passengers started to cough. We slept off and on as well as we could and were given two good meals.

    We arrived in Nadi early in the morning and took advantage of the 2 hour break to walk around and stretch a bit before boarding once again for the short 3 hour flight to Auckland.

    We arrived at midday on Friday, as there is an 18 hour time difference. We easily got a Vodaphone phone chip - 2 months, 10 gigs data, 200 minutes of phone call time, including Canada and other places in the world. $50 Cdn for the chip, which was installed right there. A great deal.

    We called the Apex car rental company and a shuttle came to pick us up. The process was easy and we now have Toyota Yaris for 2 months. Due to insurance covered by our Visa card, we will have to give up the car at the Wellington office and then pick it up 24 hours later.

    Now the test... driving on the other side of the road to get to our unfamiliar accommodations in a new city. Using the window wiper levers instead of the turn signals. Arghh.

    Thank heavens for Google maps. We made it to our homestay in 20 minutes without incident.
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