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Martin Hammerschmidt
Martin Hammerschmidt

Martin Hammerschmidt

Explorer and traveller at heart with 50+ countries visited so far. About to embark on the biggest adventure of my lifetime to see the world and ‘live a little’ 😉 Leia mais🇬🇧London
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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Antarctica - Day 2 - The Drake Passage

    14 de fevereiro, Drake Passage ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    On the second day of our voyage we entered the infamous Drake Passage - the waterway with among the strongest winds and highest waves in the world. To get to Antarctica from Argentina, crossing the Drake passage is necessary and regarded as a rite of passage.
    The weather forecast yesterday suggested that we were heading into a storm within the Drake Passage and once we left the Beagle Channel, we could certainly feel the change in how the vessels moved.

    While I did not feel sea sick the entire day, sleeping last night was an impossible task.
    Rocking in the waves I thought might put me to sleep, but the waves were too high and all over the place. Instead of the ship just going up and down, it felt like being in a washing machine with the ship tilting right to left, then front to back and all over the place. Yeah, sleeping was impossible, but all the seasickness medication certainly had done their job throughout the day - thank god. Other passengers were not so lucky.

    Anyway, the second day was basically just a day on sea, or more specifically through the Drake Passage. Still, there were quite a few things going on. First of all, we got a safety briefing for the Zodicas and what and what not to do when being close to wildlife or once we set foot on Antarctica in a couple of days.
    Then a couple of us passengers went to the bridge and learned quite a lot about navigation, the instruments, careers, etc which was highly interesting to me. We also stepped outside and played around with the leaning of the ship, always making sure we wouldn't be falling off the ship, as on some occasions, the ship was leaning towards one side quite heavily.

    After lunch, though, I took the opportunity to have a little nap, as even though I did not feel sick, I certainly felt tired and maybe a bit drowsy. I was woken up by the Public Announcement to pick up our boots for the rest of the voyage and we had some of our gear that we would wear when stepping foot on Antarctica inspected for dirt, loose items/papers, etc.

    Following another quick nap - certainly the most popular thing to do on the ship - I attended a Wildlife Photography introductory course (rather basic, I would say), before getting another briefing about mountaineering and dangers/safety of when traversing cravasses.

    A delicious dinner basically concluded the day. While the Drake Passage, its waves and the movements of the ship were certainly not pleasant, it was better than I imagined and the fact that I did not feel sea sick so far was promising. Still, there is one full day left crossing the Drake before arriving on Antarctica and the weather forecast for the next day is for slightly worse conditions than today. In all honesty, I take 'slightly' worse!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Antarctica Day 1 - Setting Sail

    13 de fevereiro, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I am hugely excited. Today I am actually heading to ANTARCTICA. It will be continent no.7 for me and with that the very last continent I will explore on my trip around the world. After a cancelled expedition cruise in November, this time it is actually happening. Again, I am going to ANTARCTICA - how cool is that? Pinching myself.

    To get there, I will take an expedition cruise ship, the MV Plancius, which can host 110 passengers plus the crew - so a fairly small vessel that is designed for the more adventurous spirits. Before reaching the Antarctic peninsula, however, we have to cross the infamous drake passage, which is known for having among the roughest waters in the world. But, it can also be calm, so l am definitely hoping for the latter bit.

    Anyway, after a wild and amazing time in Rio, I had a few days in Ushuaia to relax and get some last minute supplies before boarding the ship. Going from 35 degrees and sun to 3 degrees and cloudy and rainy, was definitely a bit of a shock.

    Then it was the day of embarkation. I woke up excited and ready to embark on this incredible journey to one of the last true wildernesses on this planet. At 11am, I left my Airbnb to drop off my luggage, spent a few hours in a cafe and at 4pm headed to the vessel for embarkation. Seeing the ship in front of me gave me a little rush of excitement - this was actually happening.

    Once on board, I was shown my cabin and I was in luck. I was paired with the husband of the board's doctor, so I had an inside line into the ship's medical stash. I shamelessly took advantage of that and got myself a patch to stick behind my ear to deal with the seasickness (don't ask me how it works, I just hope it will!). After checking out our cabin, we both went to explore the ship a little and made friends on the way.

    At 5pm, the crew assembled all guests and it was time for the safety instructions and a safety drill. So we all went back to our cabins, got the life jackets, waited for the announcement of an emergency and assembled in the briefing room, where we put on our life jackets and were led to the lifeboats. It def sounds more dramatic than it was - it basically was a calm processions with lots of chatting and laughter in between.

    At 6pm, we set sail. Leaving the harbour and actually saying goodbye to Ushuaia and South America was a surreal feeling. The next time I would step on a continent would be Antarctica. It still didn't feel real. A couple of friends I already made within my short time on board and I stood outside and looked out into the Beagle Channel - the pathway to the white continent.

    We also checked the weather to see how bad the Drake Passage would be and unfortunately we were heading straight into a storm with waves forecasted to be between 6-9m high. Great start. Haha.

    This didn't dim our spirits and weirdly enough, we were actually interested to feel those kind of waves. I mean, how bad can sea sickness get? I will certainly find out tomorrow, but with pills and patches I, at least, felt prepared.

    Next on the agenda was an introduction of the captain and the crew and oh my do they have cool jobs. Survivalist, scientists for glaciers and whales, ocean photographer, kayak/camping-guide, etc. So so cool!

    Then it was time for a delicious dinner with views over the Beagle Channel before an evening of chatter about the trip, life, etc. with fellow passengers and the crew from all over the world. So far, the sea sickness has not kicked in, but in all honesty, the Beagle Channel was supposed to be relatively quiet. At midnight, we are going to hit the Drake Passage and during the introduction our guide told us that things will get "very interesting". Let's see

    But with that, a wonderful and surprisingly eventful first day came to an end. It will take us 2.5days or 1000km to reach Antarctica and tomorrow will be all about the Drake Passage.
    Hopefully, the gods of the sea and angels of sea sickness are on our side.

    My fellow passengers seem very cool and it looks as it this is going to be a really fun trip - potentially a once-in-a-lifetime journey. So bring it on!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Rio de Janeiro II - Rio, I Fell In Love

    6–10 de fev., Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Having seen the Rio Harbour from above, we went to a boat party in the harbour the following day that the hostel organised. To good music, drinks, food and a good crowd, we traveled through the harbour towards the Sugarloaf Mountain, anchored there, jumped into the water for a swim and just had a good time. The way back, though, was quite stunning, as the sun was slowly setting, dipping the sky behind the Jesus statue into a warm golden light.

    Once back at the hostel, a few of us decided that we had not had enough of partying. So we changed, had dinner and went to Bosque Bar, which is one of the most famous clubs in Rio. I had a fantastic time there - even if it was expensive. But with the right crowd and people, it was a perfect end to the day.

    The next day, I obviously felt exhausted. But life in Rio never stands still. I started the day slowly by heading to the beach in the morning for some much needed rest and recharge.

    However, a few days before, we had learned that that day a DJ was playing on top of the Sugarloaf mountain and since a few of us hadn't checked that out yet, we decided to go up there. We were a touch late given the long queue, so we bought priority tickets (best decision ever) and headed up there quickly with the cable car. Once we arrived, I was stunned. The setting was absolutely beautiful. The colour of the sky, the view of the harbour behind, the people, the DJ, the helipad, the helicopter taking off towards Christ The Redeemer, the music. Dancing to the DJ's tune and having an amazing time, it was in this moment when I fell in love with Rio. It just felt like the perfect place at the perfect time.

    Even once the DJ finished, we weren't done yet. After all, there was a sunset to be watched. So we took a second cable car to the 'actual' Sugarloaf mountain and watched the sun paint the sky over Rio in magical colours. It truly was a stunning sight that I will never forget in my life. It was an absolutely perfect day.

    Then it was time to take it slow for once. In other words, not doing anything the following day, except hanging out on the beach, watching people (people in Rio are beautiful, it's incredible), trying all sorts of things the beach vendors were selling and soaking up the sun, atmosphere and views from Ipanema Beach. It was also the first day in probably a week or so that I didn't have a drink, haha. Sounding like an alcoholic.

    In the evening, Mara, who I met in the hostel and I, were checking out a test run for the famous Carnaval show in the Sambadrome. Even though the main props and costumes were not shown to avoid giving anything away to the other teams, the atmosphere was fantastic with loud music playing, some creative and very colourful costumes on display, women showcasing their Samba moves and people in the stadium making noise for their respective teams. It really was a teaser for carnaval.

    Yeah, that was Rio and Brazil for me for the time-being (I will be back for Carnaval, but just for that and no sight-seeing per se then). I stayed for just around a week here, but could've easily stayed longer. There is so much to do, see and experience in the city that I already knew I would come back one day to stay another week or so and do completely different things.

    The DJ at the Sugarloaf Mountain during sunset will definitely be on the list again, though. The city just exudes a vibe that is difficult to explain. There is an incredible love for life here (from what I experienced), Brazilians are super friendly, the people here are beautiful, the setting by the ocean while at the same time being surrounded by mountains, the energy during the day and night. Ah, I just love this place, the atmosphere and its people. What a city, what a country. I will be back. Obrigado Brasil!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Rio de Janeiro I - So Much To See/Do

    2–6 de fev., Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Many travelers that I met in Brazil told me that Rio is absolutely amazing. This obviously pushed my expectations to a very high level and as l was driving into Rio, I was wondering if I would have the same experience as them.

    It certainly started well, as when I arrived a few people from the hostel asked me if I wanted to go to a football game in the famous Maracana stadium (the same in which Germany won the 2014 World Cup). Hell yeah, even though I only had 20 minutes to change and pack away my stuff. While the game (low quality football) and the stadium itself was a bit underwhelming, the aura of the stadium and atmosphere made it worth going.

    The next day, our hostel was organising a hike to the Dois Irmaos - basically twin peaks that offer stunning views over Ipanema Beach and wider Rio. To get to the starting point of the hike, though, we had to hire Mototaxis to drive through a Favela. It was all fine and didn't look sketchy to be honest, but we were told to definitely not walk through it.

    The hike itself wasn't tough, but the heat and humidity made it an exhausting exercise. However, once we were at the top, the views were stunning - blue skies, Ipanema beach unfolding in front of us, my first glimpse of Christ The Redeemer on another hill to my left and the Sugarloaf Mountain rising from the harbour in the distance. It was a really cool place to get a birds-eye view over the city.

    In the afternoon, it was time to chill on Ipanema Beach, which was an experience in itself. It was busy but not too crowded, and vendors selling everything from ice cream, shrimps, caipirinha, halloumi cheese, bikinis, and lemonade were passing by and offering their products. But in a very nice and laid back atmosphere - Brazil-style I guess.

    In the evening/night, we went to Pedro do Sal, which is supposedly the birthplace of Samba.
    It was a Monday night, but the streets on which the loud music was playing was packed with people - I wondered if Rio would be open for business the next day. I had a great time partying on the streets of Rio and only got back to bed at around 4am.

    Then it was time to see Rio again from the top, but this time from a helicopter. And to make matters more exciting, one that did not have doors, so we could swing our legs outside when we were over the Jesus statue and at the crossing point of Copacabana and Ipanema Beach. It was such a cool and exciting experience - in particular being above Christ The Redeemer. It felt a bit strange at the beginning flying without doors, but I got used to it very quickly and sitting next to the pilot again, I could enjoy the views pretty much the entire time.

    The rest of the day was spent pretty much the same way as the day before. Relaxing on the beach in the afternoon and going out in the evening/night. I felt like this would be my modus operandi for Rio over the next few days.

    The following morning, I went to see the Jesus statue with a few people from the hostel I met the days before. Christ The Redeemer - one of the Seven Wonders of the World and my fifth one. Also the most disappointing one, to be totally honest. Comparing it to for example Machu Picchu, the Colosseum, or Petra, the statue wasn't really a wonder of humankind to me. We stayed up there probably for 30 minutes or so, taking our time with pictures, but since it was quite crowded, we didn't unnecessarily linger there. Still, it is impressive once you stand in front of it and the location it was erected in is really beautiful as it overlooks the impressive Rio Harbor (one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World).    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Ilha Grande - Living The Island Life

    27 de jan.–2 de fev., Brasil ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    My penultimate stop in Brazil brought me to Ilha Grande - an island just a 1.5h car ride away from Paraty. The plan for my stay here was to explore the island, its beaches, go diving and to live it up on a boat party.

    The main town on the island itself is okay. Nothing special, but it has this typical island life atmosphere - i.e. sandy paths, no cars, small shops and restaurants with live music playing.

    So, after a day of exploring the little town and the nearby beach, I booked myself on a day tour to supposedly one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil - Praia Lopes Mendez.

    After a short boat ride and a 20-30 minute walk through the jungle, I arrived on the beach. It was absolutely gorgeous. A wide beach with white sand that stretches for seemingly miles in both directions. Since I took an early boat, there was hardly anyone there. It was my kind of beach and I could see why it is said to be among the best beaches in Brazil.

    I walked along the beach to find a quiet spot away from the few people that were already there, put up my tripod and started to take a few shots as long as I had that particular part of the beach to myself. Afterwards, I didn't really do much, but read a book, took pictures, strolled along the beach for a while, watched the lifeguards and really just enjoyed my time in this beautiful place.

    Next on my wishlist for Ilha Grande was a dive. Very cheap for two dives (€60), two other divers and I set off early in the morning to go diving in the Laguna Azul (Blue Lagoon). The water really was quite blue and clear (not like in Paraty) and the two dives that we had were great. I knew they wouldn't be spectacular (no sharks or shipwrecks), but we saw turtles, colourful fish, some corals and a little seahorse (my first time seeing one). So for me, the dive was as much as I could hope for and it delivered.

    One my last full day on the island, I decided to join a party boat. More specifically, it included literally 4-5h of unlimited Caipirinha while sailing through the island's surroundings and towards 3-4 gorgeous spots. On top of it, there was an entertainer dressed as Jack Sparrow and a good DJ that together created a very lively atmosphere. In addition, 95% of the boat was Brazilian, which means good times are almost guaranteed. It was easy to make friends even if I don't really speak Portuguese and some of them didn't speak English, but after an hour or so of free Caipirinhas everyone was fluent in every language.

    During the stops, we jumped into the water, danced on the boat and just generally enjoyed life. I have to say that Brazilians really know how to have a good time while keeping it all light, fun and with lots of laughs. I have to admit that the Caipirinha got to me at the end and when we went back on land at around 5.30pm, I wasn't doing much for the rest of the evening.

    It was a great end to my time on Ilha Grande. Even though the beach, the dive and the party boat were superb, I didn't really connect with the island. Maybe it was because the hostel I stayed in was pretty dead and didn't have any vibe whatsoever. The town was also nothing special, which added to the mixed feelings that I have about Ilha Grande. That said, I think with the right people, Ilha Grande can be an absolute blast!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Paraty - Colonial Charm By The Sea

    20–27 de jan., Brasil ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Leaving the bustling megacity of São Paulo behind me, I was heading to the small colonial town of Paraty. It is located right by the water and was used as a stopover point to transport gold from Minas Gerais to Rio de Janeiro and ultimately Portugal.

    The historic centre with its beautiful colonial buildings (mostly white), cobblestone streets, sunshine and laidback vibe reminded me a little bit of Antigua in Guatemala, which is my favorite place in the world. So naturally, I really really liked Paraty.

    The hostel | was staying in had a large pool, so right after I arrived I took a dip in the pool, had dinner and then headed out to a little samba party on the beach with a few people I met at the new hostel.

    Since Paraty is by the water and surrounded by beautiful small islands and beaches, some of us decided to head on a boat to explore them. While it was a big boat, the atmosphere was lovely with live music constantly playing and the caipirinha flowing. Unfortunately, the waters at our stops were a bit dirty and the spots we went to were too crowded for my liking. We still made the best out of the situation since we were in Brazil, with music, drinks, sunshine and good company.

    In the evening, we checked out the town by night, having dinner and taking advantage of some earlier drizzle for some cool mirroring photographs. Yes, we also went out again that night!

    The next few days we didn't do much but decided to have some slow days to recover. I also met a few more people at the hostel and also outside of it and spent time with them during the day or in the evening. This meant chilling out on a couple of beaches or the pool, walking through town, eating local food, and having quiet dinners. Nothing really to write home about, but just soaking in the atmosphere of a small laidback seaside town in Brazil.

    What was cool, though, was a nearby waterfall, which you could use a slide. It was very slippery and looked fun. So, after observing things for a short while and watching a dog (!) slide down and having the time of his life, I obviously had a go as well. Ah, super fun, even if the water at the bottom was slightly chilly. But in tropical Brazil, you dry quickly anyway.

    Back in Paraty, the colonial centre continued to have a pull on me and I walked through it whenever I could. Since I love taking pictures, on my last day, I was waking up early to head to the centre while it was still quiet and people were sleeping. The little photoshoot was fun and made me live out my creative side. After all, Paraty really is a beautiful town with a lovely charm and great vibe. I had a fantastic time here - maybe it is the colonial architecture that fascinates me so much.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Sao Paulo - Bom Dia Brasil

    16–20 de jan., Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Technically, I was already in Brazil at the Iguazu Falls, but it didn't feel like Brazil back then. Now that I have made it to Sao Paulo - Brazil's biggest city - I really am in the last country of my travels.

    Before coming here, people told me that there is not really much to do and that it is a city that probably is better to live in than visit. But since my plan was to head from Sao Paulo to Rio de Janeiro over the next few weeks, I was here anyway and might as well check out the metropolis.

    Upon arriving, I chilled by the hostel pool before making new travel friends during happy hour at the hostel and, since it was a Friday, went out to a Reggaeton club at night, where we danced the night away.

    The next day, it was time to explore the city with a street art tour through the neighbourhood of Pinheiros, which is within walking distance to our hostel. Normally, I am not the biggest fan of street art, but this tour was very interesting as it included a short brief about the history of Brazil, Sao Paulo and how Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro are in a constant friendly battle about which city is better (I cannot see Sao Paulo getting even close to winning that contest to be honest). It was an interesting tour and the main highlight came at the end when we entered Batman Alley, which is, well, an Alley with lots of really cool art - some of it Batman-inspired

    In the afternoon, we chilled again by the pool, before having a delicious Japanese dinner (big Japanese population in SP), coming back to the hostel for happy hour and then going out for some live music/party on the streets and checking out the Batman Alley again at night.

    The following day, I joined a walking tour through the city and historic centre. I am sorry to say, but the city is not beautiful at all - sometimes even ugly. The historic centre was a bit better, but yeah, I could see why people said that skipping Sao Paulo is not a loss. Shame.

    On my last day in Sao Paulo, a few of us went to the Sunday market in the Japanese quarter for some lunch (Brazilian and Japanese) and to check out a small local market. Leaving the area, we were heading to the main street of the entire city, Paulisa, as it is closed for traffic on Sundays. It was cool to just walk along the street, seeing little street parties with different kinds of music happening everywhere, people dancing, drinking, eating, running, and just enjoying a nice day in the centre of the city. We stopped at a few street parties and joined in, while buying drinks and food at the various street vendors.

    Even though I cannot really recommend anyone to go to Sao Paulo, I had a great time there, probably because the people I met (Brazilians and non-Brazilians) were super fun to hang out, to party and to just spend time with and learn about their cultures, new places to explore, etc. I was happy that I took the time to check out the city.

    With that, it was time to say goodbye to most of them as I was heading to my next destination - the colonial town of Paraty.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Iguazu Falls - Majestic Natural Display

    12–16 de jan., Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    After getting a waterfall tease in Paraguay, it was now time to go and check out the famous Iguazu Falls. It is possible to see them from both the Argentinean and Brazilian side and since I was still in Argentina, I was going to do that side first.

    The night before, I met a few other travellers in my hostel and we decided to go together. So we woke up early-ish in the morning and took the bus to the falls. There are essentially three paths to see the falls from various angles and we were told to take the one that is furthest first. A small, but very slow, train took us to that first viewpoint, called ‚La Garganta del Diablo‘ or Devil's Throat.

    After getting off the train and taking a short walk, we arrived at the point where the Iguazu Falls essentially start, i.e. where the river at the top 'falls' into the river at the bottom. And oh my was that impressive. A completely different level to the Saltos de Monday yesterday. The sheer volume and force of the water that is fed by the river and creates the waterfall is just stunning. There is no chance you stay dry as the water splashes high up in the air - this much force and volume it generates. It is truly spectacular. And yeah, we did get soaked for sure, but it was 100% worth it. Luckily, it was a hot and sunny day, so we dried very quickly.

    Stunned and grateful that we could experience that spectacle with our own eyes, we took the train back to the station and decided to walk the lower pathway of the Iguazu Falls next. This path starts at the opposite end of the falls (think of the falls like a canyon with Devil‘s Throat in the front) and is just a 40 minute or so loop, but the views are incredibly beautiful. It's maybe not as ‚spectacular‘ as the Devil's Throat, but the views are marvelous. From the bottom, we looked at a wall of tens of waterfalls to our right and straight up ahead, with the green jungle as a nice backdrop. I've been to the Niagara Falls in Canada and Victoria Falls in Zambia, but to me the Iguazu Falls are the most stunning. The views, scenery and surroundings are just insanely beautiful.

    Lastly, we went on the upper path to see the waterfalls from the top - still at the opposite end of Devil's Throat. Again, we were just amazed how nature can create something this majestic. The way the river constantly feeds the tens of waterfalls that then drop tens of meters is stunning. It's difficult to describe and one has to see it with their own eyes to fully understand the beauty of this place.

    That was it for the Argentinean side. The next day, I was heading over to Brazil and booked myself a helicopter ride to see the falls from the top. To this day, I regret not having done that at the Victoria Falls, as it provides a totally different perspective to see some of the most famous waterfalls from a bird's eye view.

    So the following day, I took the local bus to the helicopter terminal and was very lucky that I got the heli seat next to the pilot and not in the back. This meant I had the falls in front of me the entire time. Once we set off, it was just a short 3-4 minute ride to the falls. We could see the thundering water cloud from afar, but once we were over the falls, I was speechless. Only now could I appreciate the sheer scale and beauty of the Iguazu Falls. The way it is set in a jungle, to see the length of the canyon starting with the Devil's Throat, the walls of waterfalls I saw two days prior, the upper and lower river. The way the water feeds the Iguazu Falls!

    This view will stay with me for the rest of my life for sure. It really is nothing like I have ever seen before. And to top it off, for one moment the heli also flew sideways, which gave all of us a little adrenaline rush and rounded up a perfect ride.

    Iguazu Falls, I mean, wow. The word ‚spectacular‘ could've been invented for you, so awesome has it been to look at you with my own eyes. 10/10 experience for sure! Ah, I am so glad I came here. Now the rest of my time in Brazil can begin!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Paraguay - A Day Trip To Waterfalls

    11 de janeiro, Paraguai ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Before exploring the famous Iguazu Falls, I thought I would take a little day trip first to see some waterfalls in Paraguay - the Saltos de Monday. It is close to the Iguazu Falls and I thought I have to see them first, as they might be impressive to me now, but after seeing the Iguazu Falls they might not anymore.

    Anyway, so I booked a little private day tour that picked me up at my accommodation and after a short 5-10 minutes drive, we arrived at the ferry that would get us from Argentina over to Paraguay. While waiting, my guide/driver pointed out that we are currently at a crossing of three borders: Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil and from the spot we were standing on, we could see all three countries. Nice little feature.

    Once we arrived in Paraguay, we headed straight to the waterfall. Luckily there weren't many people when we got there. My first thought was that it looked impressive, as thousands and thousands liters of water were thundering down the waterfall from the top. All being fed from a very calm river.

    After taking in that spectacle, we took an elevator down to the lower viewing platform to look at the waterfall from below. Luckily, the elevator had a glass front so on the way down, we had a perfect view of the waterfalls. Once we arrived at the lower platform, we were the only ones there - not a single soul besides us. So we took the opportunity to first take a few pictures of the falls, before just taking it all in for a while. The platform did get busier after a while, but it was far from being crowded. Plus, I already had the shots I wanted.

    That was already it for the day. Short and punchy. The waterfall was certainly impressive for me, but my guide told me it doesn't even come close when comparing it to Iguazu. That is why I wanted to do it first. Plus, ticking Paraguay off my bucket list wasn't really something I had considered when planning this trip.

    Was it worth it? That is debatable. As everything in Argentina is super expensive (think Swiss prices by now, yeah, seriously), the trip wasn't cheap to 'just' see a waterfall when I get to go to Iguazu the next day. I am not one that has to see every country on earth and I bet if Saltos de Monday wasn't in Paraguay I'wouldn't have paid for the tour. I don't regret it, but I am not sure l would recommend it to someone, if l am being honest. It was definitely cool and, like I said, impressive, but not something to write home about.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Buenos Aires - One Last Huarry With Dad

    6–10 de jan., Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    For our last stop, we were heading back to Buenos Aires. It felt a bit strange to think that just 4 weeks ago, I was here picking up my dad to go hike in Patagonia in the very south and explore Jujuy in the very north of Argentina. Time really flies.

    Anyway, we had 1.5 days here, which was probably sufficient to do sightseeing. And this is what we did. On our first day, we went to La Boca, which is probably the most interesting and colourful neighbourhood in Buenos Aires - dare I say all of Argentina. We took the metro there and the first thing in the neighbourhood we saw was the home stadium of the local football team Boca Juniors (the team for which Maradona played at some point). In all fairness, it looked a bit like the outside of an Ikea store given it was completely painted in blue and yellow.

    After taking a few snaps there, we continued to explore the neighbourhood and the further we went, the more colourful it got - beyond just the blue and yellow. There was a very easy-going vibe here, with lots of laid-back restaurants, interesting shops and colourful buildings with statues of mainly Maradona and Messi. Here in La Boca you really realise how important football is to the Argentineans.

    All the colour came from Italian immigrants that used to work on ships and used the scrap metal to build homes with and which they painted in many different colours. Certainly transformed this area into a beautiful place.

    We lingered around for a while, soaked up the atmosphere and had a little lunch (bread with chorizo), before slowly walking back towards the Microcentro. Microcentro is basically where all the impressive classic buildings are that have to do with culture, politics, etc. In other words, palaces, theaters, markets, the famous Obelisk on the main avenue, and the parliament.

    Walking through Buenos Aires gave us a little feel for the city, but also made us realise that there is not a lot to see in the city. It's nice-looking, organised, interesting at times, but relatively European and probably more a city to live in than to visit I would say.

    We walked a lot that day to go from sight to sight, so in the evening we thought it was only fair to have one last steak in Argentina together before dad would fly home in the afternoon the next day. It was again a good steak, but not quite as brilliant as the one we had a couple of days before in Salta.

    On our last day together, we decided to explore the popular neighbourhood of Palermo. Again, it was a nice area, but without much to see, to be honest. It probably is THE place to live in Buenos Aires, given lots of cafes and shops that exude a bohemian vibe, but since we went relatively early, all of them were still closed.

    Thus, we decided to go and check out a few parks that were on our way to an early-lunch.
    Those parks were incredible. One of them was a little zoo-like and we saw giraffes (yes, in the middle of Buenos Aires) and other cute animals in the middle of the park. That was definitely unexpected. The other park we strolled through could have easily been in Paris or London. Very European.

    And then after a delicious lunch it was time to walk back to our accommodation and say goodbye, as my dad was taking an Uber to the airport, ending our fabulous time in Argentina together.

    The first thing I want to say to my dad is a huge THANK YOU for joining me on this trip and in Argentina. It was amazing not only to see a familiar face again, but for it to be my dad. Over the last 4 weeks, | had an incredible time with him exploring Argentina and parts of Chile and I would travel with him again in a heart-beat. Of course I had to adjust the way I travel a little bit, but that was easy to do (i.e. bread and milk was a lot on the table, and having a nagging voice to my right when I was driving was sometimes challenging to get used to). I was very much surprised about his endurance when in the mountains - after all, we did some very long back-to-back hikes - and his love for curiosity to see and experience as much as possible. I am proud of you dad! Well done.

    With that, it was a heart-felt goodbye and after a day of resting in Buenos Aires I was catching a flight to see the world-famous Iguazu Falls!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante
    1

    Salta - Nice But Not More

    4–6 de jan., Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Leaving the colourful mountains behind, we were heading to Salta, Argentina's northernmost city. The drive to Salta turned out to be more adventurous as we anticipated. By trying to avoid some of the highway charges, we took the road through the hinterland, which meant narrow roads through thick forest with limited visibility. We didn’t know about it, as it looked like a normal road in the map. Since I couldn't really look into some of the corners, I was basically driving with one hand on the steering wheel and one hand on the honk to warn any car that was coming our way.

    Anyway, we arrived in Salta in the evening all safe and sound and were ready to explore the city the following day. We started by strolling towards the Teleferico (or cable car) to get up to the San Bernading lookout that provided us with beautiful views over the city. Up there, we observed that at least half of the Argentineans were carrying a thermo bottle with them filled with Mate (a kind of green tea). I wouldn't have expected that many people to carry tea to a viewpoint, but drinking Mate in Argentina is apparently deeply embedded in the culture. A bit strange, but well, each to their own.

    After some time on the hill and enjoying the atmosphere, we walked down the hill before visiting a little local food market to grab a bite to eat and stroll through the market, chatting to people, etc. To be fair, there wasn't a huge amount to do in Salta, except exploring the old down, the central square (which is beautiful to be fair and we lingered there for a bit) and some of the churches (they have quite a few). Unfortunately, all the churches were closed that day, which was a bit of a pity.

    Essentially, that was already it for Salta. For the evening, though, we decided to have some traditional Argentinian steak. Our AirBnB owner had recommended a place the day before and so we went. And oh boy was that steak delicious - might be the best steak that I have ever eaten. The portion was huge and the meat so soft and delicious, it was brilliant. The accompanying red wine rounded up a perfect meal. In addition, the waiter was really funny, cracking jokes, taking pictures and really just enjoying being a waiter.

    It was a brilliant end to our time in rural Argentina. While Salta was probably my least favorite place as there was not much to do, dad and I reviewed our time together in Patagonia and Jujuy. From the very south to the very north of Argentina we went and saw the stark contrast in the Argentinian landscape. We enjoyed both those regions for various reasons. I think Patagonia was incredible in terms of the beauty of the mountains, trekking at the end of the world and fulfilling a long-term dream of my dad. Jujuy on the other side was unexpectedly stunning. We didn't plan to come here in the first place, but were glad we did as the colours of the mountains were just ridiculous. Still cannot get over the fact how nature can create something like that to be fair. Truly mind-blowing!

    The only destination now left for our time together was Buenos Aires. Vamos!    Leia mais

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    Purmamarca - Walking In A Painting

    4 de janeiro, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    For our last full day in Purmamarca, it was all about colourful mountains - not that we had seen them already yesterday. But today would turn out to be next level. Starting the day, we walked just a couple of minutes outside of town to start a 1h or so loop around the colourful mountain that we had already seen yesterday.

    At the beginning of the loop, the colour of the mountain was mainly red and looked and felt like clay. It was also drizzling a little bit, which gave a kinda eerie atmosphere, but unfortunately it meant the colour wouldn't be out in full force compared to when the sun shines on them. We still made the very best out of it and half way through the loop, the drizzle stopped. The views at this point were impressive, but not spectacular. That would change the moment we turned a corner roughly around 60% of the loop.

    All of a sudden, a small valley opened up in front of us. Not only that, but there was a burst of colour from the green plants in the valley, and surrounding mountains with colours that quite literally had 50 shades of earthy tones. It felt to me as if we were about to walk in God's paintbox. It was magnificent.

    Dad and I took a lot of time to appreciate the place, explore around, take pictures and marvel at the different colours - especially once we had made it down into the small valley. The trek was called 'Montana de Siete Colores', i.e. mountain of the seven colours, and I could see why - although in earnest there were more than just seven colours I think. Truly spectacular and 100% worth the loop!

    Once we made it back to town, we jumped into the car to drive to what is probably the most stunning place in northern Argentina - even more so than the salt flats. To get there, it was about a 2h drive but we made multiple stops for viewpoints to look at mountains displaying multiple colours. This region really is absolutely beautiful and not like anything I have seen before - Peru comes close, but only has a few colourful mountains. By contrast, Jujuy has an entire region of it.

    To get to our destination, we, again, had to drive up a mountain. Except this time, there was no paved road and the entire path was just gravel. At some point I could not use more than the first or max second gear to drive up (to be fair, we didn't have a 4x4 SUV and our car was coughing a lot, but brought us up there). When we were at the entrance, however, our car needed a brake. More precisely, we had a flat tire. Luckily, we had a spare one in the trunk, so we quickly changed the tire and drove to our destination at an elevation of 4350m above sea level.

    The amazing place I am talking about is called ‚Serrania de Hornocal‘ in Humahuaca and might as well be among the most beautiful non-snow-capped mountains I have ever seen in my life. Imagine not just one rainbow mountain, but 7 or 8 right next to each other. Even the sun peaked through parts of the clouds to illuminate a part of those mountains to bring out the full effect of the colours. From all shades of yellow, to green, to red, brown, the mountains were bursting with colours. I thought I was looking at a painting, but instead I was walking in one. I never would've thought that nature can create something as truly magnificent and awe-inspiring as this. The view was otherworldly for sure.

    This together with the Fitz Roy lookout were certainly my most favorite views in all of Argentina. We, of course, sat down and soaked in the views, still amazed by how such things can exist. We took loads of incredible pictures, but they don't do reality justice. I was stunned the entire time and could've stayed there for hours and looked at it.

    However, rain was starting to come in. We waited until really the last second to get up and return to our car. It was right timing, as just as we reached the car, a downpour battered the area. Lucky us. Dry and full of incredible memories.

    On the way back to Purmamarca, we made a quick pit stop at the Tropic of Capricorn and another viewpoint before arriving at our accommodation to rest and pack for the next day.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Purmamarca - Wild West With Salt Flats

    2–4 de jan., Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    With incredible memories of Patagonia in our minds, we were now heading from the south of Argentina to its very north. More specifically, to a region called Jujuy, which, with its rather dry climate, would provide a stark contrast to the Patagonian mountains.

    Once we arrived at the airport there, we picked up a rental car and drove to Purmamarca that would be our home base from which we would explore the region over the next few days. First order of business was to explore the tiny town and get a feel for the place.

    Upon strolling through the tiny streets, I couldn't help myself but to compare Purmamarca to two things: San Pedro de Atacama in Chile that I visited a few weeks prior and an American Wild West movie. Picture dusty, sandy streets, a dry climate, red mountains/hills surrounding the town, flat, single-floor houses and one square in the middle. The only thing missing was a cowboy on a horse riding through the town.

    Anyway, we had a delicious local lunch, checked out the little open-air market that was taking place on the square, had a drink at a nearby bar with outside seating to soak up the atmosphere, planned the next few days and generally just enjoyed the surroundings and contrast of Purmamarca to Patagonia. It was peaceful, not overly busy and just generally a cute little town.

    On the following day, we decided to go on our first roadtrip to check out some salt flats.
    Obviously, I have seen them already in Uyuni, but for dad it would be a totally new experience. What we didn't anticipate was that the drive towards the salt flats was incredibly beautiful. The colours of the mountains changed multiple times from green-ish, to yellow-ish to red-ish. Basically a photo opportunity behind literally every corner. This certainly dragged out the drive, but in a good way.

    In addition, we also had to drive over a mountain pass to get to the salt flats. And the elevation of the pass was no small feat. We were no at the edge of the Andes after all. Luckily, our car was in a good mood and got us there. The road to the top was beautiful with lots of zig-zags, viewpoints and heavy trucks that were driving slower than a snail. The top was at 4170m and finally I got dad to experience high altitude oxygen - even if it was just for a short while. He coped well.

    Driving down from the pass, we could see the salt flat starting to unfold in front of us after a short while. It looked like a giant mirror on the ground. We parked there and hired a guide to take us around the most beautiful and interesting spots in the salt flat. I already enjoyed my tour in Uyuni and enjoyed this one as well - especially to see dad's reaction to this type of nature.

    We first stopped at the pools that had crystal clear, but obviously very salty water. Our guide told us that this is basically what the salt flats look like just 20-30cm underneath our feet and the main way to extract salt for commercial and industrial purposes.
    There is no visit to salt flats without some perspective-bending photos, of course, so we did that as well with a good laugh. There are some funny results for sure!

    Next we went to a little - let's call it lake - where the water was so clear that the reflection in the water was just mind-blowingly realistic. The entire scenery was spectacular: the white and endless salt flats, no clouds in the sky, the heat and the crystal clear blue lake. In other words, simply stunning.

    We drove around the salt flats for a bit longer before visiting another part of them without a guide and then driving back to Purmamarca. On the way, we did a couple more stops for viewpoints, cactees (didn't understand my dad's obsession with them, but ah well), before settling into the bar at the square in town to listen to a live band, have my dad try tamales and winding down, looking at the colourful mountains surrounding us and reflecting on the amazing day that we had.    Leia mais

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    El Chalten - One Last Amazing Hike

    29 de dez.–1 de jan. 2025, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    For the last beautiful day in El Chalten, we decided to hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, which we were recommended by the visitor's office the previous day. It is a 20km return hike just a short 20 minute walk out of town and would take us around 8h without breaks. The elevation gain would be around 1000m, but relatively evenly stretched over the entire length of the hike - apart from the last bit to the summit, which would be significantly steeper.

    Anyway, we set off early - again to avoid the ridiculous $45 p.P. park fees - and were making good progress. We thought the hike would be a bit more difficult, but the gradual ascent didn't feel too strenuous as we were walking through open fields, forests and gravel. Once out of the forest, we started to have a beautiful sight of the summit - our end goal - without yet knowing the amazing view it would reveal.

    It took us around 3.5h to arrive at the first viewpoint, which was already magnificent. While we couldn't see Fitz Roy from the front, we were now able to look at it from the side, with Lago Torres (our first hike in El Chalten) placed in front of us and the mountain range to Fitz Roy's left showing its entire glory. It was a beautiful day with hardly any clouds in the blue sky.

    We lingered at the viewpoint for a fair while, had our snacks and were enjoying the beauty of nature. However, the hike was not done yet, as we still wanted to go to the summit.

    So, we packed our things for the last bit. To be fair, it didn't look too steep, but turned out to be quite the challenge. It took us around 30-45 minutes to reach the summit, but, oh boy, was it worth it. Once I arrived there, the view was literally breath-taking. I would almost, almost, go as far and say that this hike/view is better than that of Fitz Roy.

    The entire mountain range unfolded in front of us and we got sort of a bird's eye view of it.
    Plus, it was incredibly peaceful, as there were hardly any people up there. I could've marvelled at the sight for hours. The only slight drawback was that it was a bit windy, so dad and I quickly looked for a spot to protect us from the wind. This time, I think both of us took a little nap up there. Afterwards, we, of course, had to take some amazing pictures with the stunning mountains in the background.

    It was our last hike in Patagonia, but it certainly was a picture-perfect one. I am still amazed by the view as I am writing this, so magnificent was it to be up there and see the incredible landscape there with my own eyes.
    I didn't want to leave, but the wind became rather cold and after a long time on the summit, it was time to go back. Going down from the summit was a bit challenging, but fun, as it was rather steep and one had to be careful not to slip. Once we mastered this little section, though, it was a very long way back home and especially the end felt like it was dragging on for ages. This might be the only drawback of hiking in Patagonia - often you have to take the same way back that you had taken, which limits the variety of that particular hike. This is complaining at a very high level, however.

    With that, our last hike in Patagonia was over. The next day it literally rained the entire day, so there was nothing really to do outside and we chatted, played games, did some life admin, planning, etc. For the last day in El Chalten, which was also New Year's Eve, we decided to take it slow, reflect on everything and soak in the atmosphere of this Argentinean Mecca of Hiking. New Year's was actually rather non-existing, with no countdown, no fireworks, no really big events or parties (just one, really). But we still went to a bar, had a drink, counted down the old year and welcomed the new year with a smile, a hug, hopes, dreams and general happiness. After all, we were in PATAGONIA!

    With that, we left Patagonia the next day to travel to the very north of Argentina. I can genuinely say that Patagonia is an amazing region with absolutely spectacular landscape and some of the most beautiful mountain ranges and formations that I have ever seen. It was truly stunning to hike in that remote part of the world. And to share that experience with my dad, who had talked about wanting to go to Patagonia for years, made this whole time with him even more special for me and, I think, also for him. I was positively surprised and proud of his endurance and enthusiasm to do as many hikes as possible - even if some of them were really long. Well done dad. Off to our next adventure!    Leia mais

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    El Chalten - Good Morning Fitz Roy

    28 de dezembro de 2024, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After an exhausting but beautiful day yesterday, we, of course, went to bed relatively early to recover. However, since the weather forecast for the following day was also for a gorgeous one, I decided to get up early for sunrise. I had heard that when the early morning sun shines upon the Fitz Roy mountain range, the colour of the mountains becomes an intense orange. Of course, I had to see that for myself. I could not convince dad to get up that early, unfortunately.

    So, even though I had a tough day before, I woke up at 4.30am or something to get to Mirador Condor, which, luckily, was only a short 20 minute walk away and a short 15 minute hike up. I could definitely feel my legs aching as I was walking through town towards the starting point of the hike. I have to say, though, that walking through town in the very early morning, with the crisp air and quiet streets was a nice start to the day. I felt I was starting to win the day already.

    Anyway, the hike to the top of Mirador Condor was an easy 15 minutes slightly up and not difficult at all. Once at the top, I set up my tripod to get some cool shots before waiting for the sun to rise behind me to shine upon Fitz Roy in front of me in the distance. There were maybe a total of 10 people up there, which made it a peaceful atmosphere.

    I didn't have to wait long before the first rays of sunshine appeared. And just as ordered, once they became just a touch more intense, the mountain range started to change its colour into a more orange-y. It really was a beautiful sight to see as the world underneath and in front of me was starting to change its colour from a cold blue to a warmer yellow/orange.

    I lingered there for quite a while, taking in the beautiful view, and capturing the orange-y mountains with some cool snaps. I wished that dad was here as well to see Fitz Roy early in the morning with that colour, but I guess he deserved a bit of a rest after the long hike the day before.

    Just before 7.20am I started to make my way back in order to avoid paying the park fees that, even for a 15 minute short hike like that, would've still been $45. Absolutely ridiculous!

    For the rest of the day, I took it easy and caught up on some life admin stuff and planned the next few days, while dad decided to check out a nearby waterfall. We also explored the town, had a drink, met a guy that I had met in Uruguay on a walking tour, and went to visitor centre a little bit to get a recommendation for a beautiful hike that we would do the following day.

    So, I guess, everyone did their little hike that day at a very relaxed pace. I think those things are called 'active recovery'. I definitely was still a bit exhausted from the prior day, but since the weather forecast for in two days looked unpromising, we tried to make the most out of the days with sunshine. So far, we were quite lucky, which made our stay in El Chalten a really great one. I also thought this was what dad had in mind when he thought of flying to the end of the world to see, hike and experience Patagonia. While not everything was perfectly planned in hindsight, we definitely had a fantastic time together exploring all those different treks and hikes!    Leia mais

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    El Chalten - Hiking To Famous Fitz Roy

    27 de dezembro de 2024, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We were up early to hike to the base of one of the most famous mountains in the world - Fitz Roy. It is famous not just because of its beauty, but because its mountain range is prominently featured on the logo of the Patagonia clothing brand.

    We went early to avoid paying for the park fees (the rangers only show up at the booth at 8am), as they would've amounted to $45 each(!), which we thought for a single hike was rather ridiculous.

    Anyway, it was a beautiful day and our spirits were high. Next to the towers in Torres del Paine, this hike was the one I was looking most forward to. It's roughly 10km to get there and a relatively easy hike apart from the last 1km (we will get to that).

    The views on the way started out to be beautiful, as after just a bit more than 1km, we reached a viewpoint with magnificent vistas over the valley behind El Chalten. Then it was another hour until we reached the 'Mirador Fity Roy', which is the point that offers incredible views over the Fitz Roy mountain range and is essentially Patagonia's logo. The sight was truly spectacular and we stood there for quite a while to enjoy the magnificent scenery, took lots of pictures and appreciated the place that we were in. We also had the luck of literally not a single cloud in the sky. To be here with my dad was definitely a special moment for me.

    Continuing our hike, it was largely flat (nice!) and the mountain range was in sight (either right in front of us or to our left) almost the entire time. It was a really beautiful hike.

    Then came the last km. It was literally just 1km, but to get to the base of Fitz Roy we had to climb up 400m of elevation. In other words, it was just straight up. It was definitely exhausting and even though we decided to each go our own pace, we arrived at the top after 45 minutes and just 15 minutes or so apart.

    Once at the top, the view was literally breathtaking. It essentially looked like Fitz Roy and its sister mountains rising out of a base lake as if to tell us ‚look how beautiful I am'. It truly was a spectacular sight. We sat down to rest a little bit after that tough last km and to soak in the atmosphere and views that had unfolded in front of us - of course we also took quite a few cool snaps.

    As there were quite a few people at the location, we decided to have a short walk to the left of the lake, as I had heard before that it offered an even more stunning perspective of the mountain range. And it was right. The views did get even better as now we not only had the base lake and Fitz Roy to our right, but another lake, waterfall and the continuation of the mountain to our left. Plus, there were less people there, which I found strange but welcoming.

    Thus, we sat down - again - to appreciate the awe-inspiring view, had our lunch (I think leftover pasta) and took another round of really great photos. I think with a background like that, it is almost impossible not to take cool pics. We lingered there for quite a while and marveled at the sight, but also after 10km (c.5h), I thought we deserved to stay here for a bit. After all, it is such a beautiful place at sort of the end of the world that it was only fair to take it in as long as we wanted.

    However, after enough time to enjoy the view, we were starting to head back, but not without wanting to do a little detour. I had seen prior to arriving in El Chalten, that on the way back there was the possibility to do a 4km detour (one-way!) to get close to a glacier. Remarkably, we still had the energy to try and check out that glacier. Unfortunately, it turned out that we were on the wrong side of the river (the way we wanted to take wasn't marked on the map, only the alternative way). We still had some nice views, but it wasn't the views we wanted and we were further away than we aimed for. Especially given the extra km we had to walk for this it felt a bit disappointing.

    Ah well, I guess that's life. This little extra hike extended our already 20km hike by another 10km or so, so that by the time we arrived back in our accommodation, we had done a grand total of 57k steps that day. Fair to say that we were definitely exhausted. Very happy, but exhausted.

    Apart from the detour, it was literally a perfect day. The weather, our spirit, the excitement, and of course the breathtaking views - every piece had fallen perfectly into place. I was extremely happy to have successfully done the hike and even more so that my dad was by my side - especially as he managed the entire day with what looked like ease. I really was very proud of him that day. Super well done!    Leia mais

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    El Chalten - Hiking Laguna Torre

    26 de dezembro de 2024, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a few days in El Calafate, my dad and I took the bus to El Chalten, which is said to be the hiking capital of Argentina. We would stay there for just after new year, which gave us plenty of time to explore the surroundings and hopefully stunning hikes.

    The bus ride to El Chalten was already a good start and among the most spectacular ones that I have ever been on, as the beautiful Andean mountain range unfolded directly in front of us against a bright blue sky. It was also the first time that we could see the Fitz Roz mountain peak, which is famous due to its presence at the heart of the logo of the clothing brand Patagonia.

    The next day, the two of us went on our first hike to Laguna Torre. It would be 9km one-way hike and even though the sign suggested it is a medium-difficult hike, it was mostly flat and not really hard for both of us - apart from maybe the beginning which was a bit of an ascent.

    Unfortunately, it was a bit cloudy and the peaks of the mountains were kind of covered in the clouds, but we were hopeful that throughout the hike, the sky would clear so we would get a perfect close-up view of the mountains.

    The hike itself was nice, but nothing to write home about. It gave us an opportunity to stretch our legs and introduce us to the regional flora and fauna. The endpoint, by contrast, was quite cool, as it ended in a lake with floating chunks of ice and the mountain range and a glacier rising right behind the lake. Upon arriving, it was quite windy, so we found ourselves a nice little spot by the lake that was wind-protected, had our packed lunch and enjoyed the stunning scenery. We also picked out some ice chunks from the lake and had some fun with those. Dad also took a little nap while I was trying to figure out a few cool shots.

    We stayed there for quite a while, before we were heading to a little viewpoint on the side of the lake to get a better glance at a glacier that was a bit hidden from our current location.

    Going up to the viewpoint (a mere 5-10 minute walk), the wind was so strong that at times we had to take cover. Rarely have I ever experienced winds like that. Since we were walking up on a ridge, we were fully exposed to the elements with hardly any cover besides a few large rocks. I am gonna be honest, it was kinda fun, though! At the viewpoint, we enjoyed the view of the glacier for a short while and tried to get some shots in, which was rather challenging, as the wind blew us off any stones that we tried to stand for a cool shot.

    Unfortunately, the weather didn't quite clear, even though we started to see patches of blue skies and hoped that the sun would be strong enough to push through. So, on our way back, we constantly looked over our shoulders to see if we could see the entire mountain, but to no avail - the clouds were too strong that day.

    It was nonetheless a cool destination and a good introduction to hiking on the Argentinean side of Patagonia. We were slightly exhausted after 18km of hiking, but happy to have done it. Plus, the weather forecast for the next day looked very promising, so we were hyped up as we were planning to do the most famous hike in all of Argentina - to Fitz Roy!    Leia mais

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    El Calafate - Christmas At The Glacier

    21–25 de dez. 2024, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The key reason for us to come to El Calafate was to visit the famous Perito Moreno Glacier, which is one of the most impressive and, more importantly, accessible glaciers in the world.

    So we hopped on a bus and drove to the glaicer. The infrastructre there is simply superb with well-build/maintained staircases to walk rather close to the glaciers face.

    Once we had our first clear view at the glacier, we were speechless. Not only did the glacier stretch very far into the distance (it has multiple arms that feed the glacier over mountains and through valleys), but at the highest point the front face of the wall what we were looking at was 70m high. The colours ranged from white to a milky blue, to a very intense and shining dark blue that was mesmerising to look at.

    In addition, the glaicer constantly kept on making noises as huge blocks of ice broke off, falling tens of meters down either within the glacier or into the water in front of our eyes.

    Watching ice break off really is a sight to behold and we were lucky to witness quite a few - and one large - blocks of ice cracking away from the glacier.

    At one moment, we managed to witness a huge block of ice in the water turning upside down, revealing what the bottom looks like. The first thing that came to mind when I saw it was that it looks very much like a diamond - absolutely crystal clear, shiny and elegant.

    We really enjoyed our time looking at the glaciers and observing the little ecosystem that was going on within it. The sheer size of that glacier is difficult to comprehend and was nothing any of us has ever seen (not even in New Zealand!). I am still amazed thinking about it. It wasn't cheap ($45 entry and another $50 to get there), but it was very well worth the money. Places like this really remind me why I love travelling so much.

    The following day it was Christmas Eve. Throughout our time in Patagonia so far, there was literally zero Christmas feelings. No meaningful street decoration or beautifully-decorated Christmas trees. Nada. In none of the towns. For a country with a Spanish history that was odd to us. Thus, we were also in no Christmas mood whatsoever. That didn't change in El Calafate either, even though we thought the little town would have potential.

    It was of course also strange to have 20+ degrees on the 24th December. To make the most out of it, we cooked some steak and literally ate outside in the sunshine - something really unimaginable in Germany. It didn't feel like Christmas (the second time in two years for me, as there was no Christmas feeling in Vietnam for me last year, either), but we still made the most out of it, calling home, playing yatzy and chatting the day and evening away.

    A Christmas well spent with the memories of the simply stunning Perito Moreno Glacier still lingering in the back of our minds.    Leia mais

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    Torres Del Paine - In Pursuit Of Towers

    15–21 de dez. 2024, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Unfortunately, for the next few days the weather forecast for the Torres del Paine National Park was unhelpful to say the least. Not only was it forecasted to be a bit rainy, but the wind speed would make it difficult to do some of the hikes - or impossible, as the park closes certain ones due to unacceptable risks.

    Hope is what we had and the following day, we drove with said hope to a boat ride that we prayed would take us over the western lake of the mountain range and close to Glacier Gray.
    However, the strong wind was too dangerous for the boat, so it was cancelled. Instead, we did a short hike that was open for views over the lake, but couldn't really see the glacier as thick clouds rolled in.

    So we drove to our new accommodation, which essentially was a brown and spacious dome that looked like it could stand on Mars. It was a really cool place and the owner brought us delicious breakfast every evening for the next morning.

    Anyway, the following day was the best window for the most famous hike in Torres del Paine - the hike towards the three iconic towers. It is a 20km round trip with a total elevation gain of around 900m and would turn out to take us around 10h incl breaks.
    Luckily, the weather turned out to be okay, with not too much wind and no rain. Only the clouds slightly ruined an otherwise perfect picture.

    The hike was relatively straightforward with a longish steep ascend at the beginning followed by a moderately steep middle section. Once we reached the first viewpoint, the views were gorgeous with a river making its way through the valley below us to the right and the mountains rising to our left.

    The last section was a tough one, however. It wasn't a long one, just 1.5km, but an elevation gain of 400m meant that it was not only steep, but the terrain was rocky and a clear path was hard to identify. At some point it was more scrambling than hiking and once we passed the tree line, the force of the wind made all this a tricky endeavour. It took us, I think, an hour or so to make it to the viewpoint.

    Even though the towers were not completely out of the clouds, we could make out the shapes and were still quite happy that they were not fully covered by the clouds. The lake laying in front of us with the towers rising behind it made for a truly mystic sight. We were both happy and a bit lucky that we did not encounter rain and could still see some of the three towers. Thus, we sat down at a comfortable spot that was protected from the wind, ate our made-it snacks/chocolate, took some photos, did people-watched and simply admired the view. After all, the three towers are among the most famous pictures of mountains in the world and we were right there underneath them.

    Then it was time to walk ALL the way back, the same way we came from. For the first 20-30 minutes the weather caught up with us a little bit and we were exposed to some winds and snow. As soon as we reached the tree line, it was all good, though. The 10km or so back turned out to be a very long slog, especially the last 1-2km and we could definitely feel our legs by that point.

    For our last day, we had one more hike to do. And it turned out to be the steepest - Mirador Ferrier. It is only 6km long, but with an elevation gain of around 700m of which the first 2km are basically flat. It wasn't the perfect weather either with some light rain making the path up a bit muddy. The viewpoint was west of the Grey Glacier (the one we wanted to see by boat), so we hoped to get a glimpse of it from the top.

    However, once we reached the top, it was almost unbearable to stay there. Not only were clouds blocking our views of the glacier and the mountain range, but a mix of a bit of rain/snow, but extremely strong winds meant that it was not enjoyable up there at all. So we did not linger there for long but made our way back quickly.

    And of course, as soon as we were around half way down, the weather cleared a bit and the sun even came out. Ah well, guess we cannot have everything. It was a good exercise that probably offers a stunning view in the right conditions.

    That was it with Torres del Paine and Chile, though. It truly is an amazing landscape and we could easily see why it is so popular. In addition, being sort of at the end of the world also made coming here alluring and exciting. Dad was also happy and I was honestly impressed about his fitness and level of endurance. Every hike I did, he did as well. And apart from some steep uphill sections where he had to slow down, his pace was similar to mine. Well done, and yes, I definitely was proud of him!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Hola Chile - Hiking In Torres Del Paine

    15–18 de dez. 2024, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    After a few days in Ushuaia, my dad and I were making our way to Chile in order to hike parts of the famous W-Trek in the even more famous Torres del Paine National Park. To get there, we hired a car in a nearby town and drove to our accommodation. The drive was an interesting one, however, as I think I have never seen this many potholes that were so deep.It was downright dangerous at times.

    That said, when we saw the mountain range of Torres del Paine, we were both stunned and amazed. It was such a spectacular formation of mountains that even though I was driving that pothole-road, it could hardly focus on the road as I was tempted to just look at the mountains. Luckily, there were a few viewpoints at which we could stop and take a few snaps.

    The accommodation I picked out for us was also a bit more adventurous. It was basically glamping, but without the glamour in it. Within the tent were just two big water beds and that was literally it. Luckily we had thick blankets to keep us warm at night.

    Anyway, the next day it was finally time to do a proper hike in Patagonia, Chile. For that, we woke up early and drove to a small pier where a boat would take us to the start of the hike.
    Today's destination would be a viewpoint in the French Valley, which was a roughly 14km hike. On the way, we made friends with another guided hiking group and thus gained the benefit of some local knowledge while hiking towards the valley.

    With the enormous Torres del Paine mountain range constantly in front of our eyes or on our left, we hiked through forests, dead trees, along lakes and crossing rivers. Just after lunch, we arrived at the closest Refugio (i.e. campsite), where we ate some snacks to energise us for the final steep-ish ascent. We already got a first glimpse of the French valley and its impressive Glacier Frances half an hour before, but now it was time to get closer.

    From the Refugio, it was 'only' a 2.5km hike, but the elevation gain would be 572m, so not a very easy feat, but not impossible. However, once we passed the treeline, the wind blew with such force that we really had to concentrate when and where to step. Walking up, though, the views of the glacier got better with each step and once we reached the viewpoint, the enormous entirety of the glacier unfolded right in front of our eyes. It was truly impressive.

    Imagine a giant wall of grey rocks, snow, small waterfalls and ice rising in front of you, with clouds racing above the peaks and giving way to a blue sky. You can see and hear blocks of ice breaking free from the glacier and falling into the abyss. And to top it off, when you turn around you can see the peaks of the famous three towers appearing behind a giant hill.

    It was a truly spectacular sight and we lingered up there for a bit until the wind got too strong. After what felt like an endless walk back to the boat, we waited with some hot chocolate at hand for the return ferry. From the roof of the ferry, we managed to get another beautiful view of the Torres del Paine massive rising in front of clear skies - that was until it started to pour down with rain the moment we reached our car. Luckily, we were on time and stayed dry.

    The pizza back in our Camping Site was very well deserved!    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Ushuaia - Meeting Dad At World‘ End

    10–15 de dez. 2024, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Leaving Uruguay, I was heading to the end of the world. Ushuaia, the southernmost city on this planet. However, before heading there, I would reunite with my dad who I picked up at the airport in Buenos Aires for our flight to Ushuaia together. Visiting Patagonia has been a little bit of a dream of his and when I planned my trip around the world and my leg through South America, it became clear that this was a chance to fulfil that little dream and travel together - father and son style. Plus, I was also very happy to see a familiar face from home - especially family. That said, let's see how 'different' my travels will become.

    Anyway, on our first full day, we were heading to Laguna Esmeralda to get a first glimpse of the mountains at the end of the world. The 1.5-2h path to the lagoon kinda felt as if we were walking at the end of the world, as we hiked through forest, weird trees and open fields with amazing views of the mountains. The lagoon is beautifully located right in front of a mountain wall offering superb views. We also decided to get a bit adventurous and went around the lagoon, which entailed finding a non-existent way through the woods, crossing rivers and swamps. It was good fun, though, and a perfect first day in Patagonia with dad.

    On the second day, we took an Uber to walk up to the viewpoint of the Glacier Martial. It was a straightforward smooth 1-1.5h hike up, and while the view was nice, there was no glacier. However, there was snow and the mountain wall that rose in front of us made for a cool set-up. It was nice, but nothing to write home about. Going back, though, we took a little detour to have a great view over the city and the Beagle Channel - the waterway to Antarctica - in the background.

    The following day, we focused on exploring the town, its shops and the views from various vantage points. In all fairness, the city itself does not have a lot to offer and you can walk around it in less than 2-3h. Since it also started to rain at some point, we decided to head back to our AirBnB, talked about life and future plans and played Yatzy - a dice game I had not played in ages.

    For our last full day, we decided to hike to the Estanica Tunel. This hike took us right along the Beagle Channel and offered beautiful views over the waterway and the mountains behind it. Unfortunately, we could not go into the Estanica as it was private property and not open for tourism, but it gave us a good excuse to go out and about, breathe some fresh air and just see what the flora and fauna looks like at the end of the world. Spoiler: Lots of leaning trees and surprisingly green.

    That was it for Ushuaia, already. I think generally speaking, Ushuaia is not a must-visit in Argentina, but we decided to meet up here, as my original Antarctica trip that got canceled would’ve ended here with my dad arriving the following day. So we had it in our schedule anyway, and I think we made the most out of it. The hikes are interesting, but probably not comparable to what we are going to see during the following four weeks we would travel around Argentina.

    That said, it was really nice to spend the days with my dad, explore new places together, see his curiosity about the most random things and just spend quality time together.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Montevideo - Exploring The Capital

    8–9 de dez. 2024, Uruguai

    After the beach in Punta del Diablo it was time for a short city break in Montevideo, Uruguay's vibrant capital. I was only here for one night, so I planned to make the most of it.

    Thus, after dropping off my bags in the hostel, I took a stroll to the famous 'Rambla', which is the longest promenade by the sea in the world. It stretches for over 26km, but, of course, I did not walk anywhere close to all of that. Instead, I found myself a little spot to sit down to watch the sunset over the ocean.

    The next day, it was time to learn more about the capital and history of Uruguay. So I signed up for a 2-3h free walking tour through the city centre. In all fairness, I knew next to nothing about Uruguay's history and was quite surprised how complicated and interesting it is. The short version seems to be that it was first occupied by the Portuguese/Brazilians, but then wanted to be part of Argentina, and then more independent.
    And yeah, there were also the famous wins in the world cups against the big neighbours of Brazil and Argentina, which play a huge role in Uruguayan culture.

    Apart from the centre, the promenade and maybe a handful of other spots, there is not a huge amount of sight-seeing to do in Montevideo. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my short time here, as the city exudes a calm and relaxed atmosphere. It is said that it is the more chill and organised city/country in contrast to chaotic Buenos Aires/Argentina.

    One cool thing that happened on the free-walking tour was that I met another traveller, Jonas, who is actually from Dieburg, the town I went to school in. We hit it off very quickly and had a steak after the tour before parting ways. We would see each other again a few weeks later in Patagonia for a couple of beers. How small is the world?!

    With that my time in Uruguay came to an end. It’s a cute country but with not a huge load of things to do/see. I nevertheless enjoyed my time (apart from Punta del Este), but am now looking forward to explore the wilderness of Patagonia together with my dad.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Punta del Diablo - Resting By The Beach

    1–8 de dez. 2024, Uruguai ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    For the next few days I gave myself a little time to rest, catch up on administrative and other things and just wanted to have a nice place for myself in a little town. For that reason, I chose Punta del Diablo, which is a sleepy fishing village on the eastern coast of Uruguay.

    So, I took a 4h bus from disappointing Punta del Este. It was raining cats and dogs when I arrived in Punta del Diablo, so I quickly made myself at home in my little AirBnB cabin and started to plan the things I wanted to achieve the following days.

    The next day was sunny and blue-skies and I took the opportunity to stroll along the beach, explored the tiny town, ate some very delicious empanadas and simply enjoyed the simplicity of this place and life. People were sitting, playing and chatting on the beach and the whole atmosphere in town was one of tranquility.

    Of course over the next couple of days, I took the opportunity to relax on the beach, eat some more empanadas, do a little photoshoot and simply watch life go by.

    One of the major things that I luckily accomplished these days was to find another Antarctica expedition cruise since my previous one was cancelled a week prior to boarding. This one sounds even more exciting, to be honest, as it is more of an adventure-based expedition and less of a cruise. Rearranging plans, planes and accommodation was time-consuming, but I was happy that I managed to secure an excellent deal.

    This means I will be heading to the white and my seventh continent from 13th-25th February. followed by a few days in Rio for the famous Carnival - what an end to my trip around the world!

    Anyway, my quiet time in Punta del Diablo was very wholesome even though I did not do many activities or exploration. But I knew that my dad was coming to accompany me on my Argentina leg soon and that would be four weeks of pretty much constant action. Hence, the few days here by the coast recharged my battery and I was ready to the next part of my adventure in South America.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Punta del Este - Waste Of Time

    28 de nov.–1 de dez. 2024, Uruguai ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    From Colonia, I took two buses to the seaside town of Punta del Este. It is said to be the Monaco of South America with a couple of big casinos and parties that draw in the crowds during the summer months. Since it was December (i.e. summer in Uruguay), I thought I'd give it a go for a couple of days, maybe get rich in a casino or relax on the beach and soak up the atmosphere.

    However, it turned out that the crowds only really arrive in end-December/January, so the place was pretty dead. Even the casinos were empty. Imagine Benidorm in Spain without people - it was rather boring. There wasn't really a vibe in this place and it was just a collection of apartment blocks and hotels. There wasn't much to do/see here.

    But, I had booked a place for three nights (two full days), so I thought I had no choice as to make the most of the situation. On the first day, I decided to take a walk along the beach/promenade and explore the place as much as there was. There wasn't much.

    Fortunately, I picked an accommodation with a pool, so after walking around town/beach and paying a visit to the casino for much of the morning, I lounged by the pool, read my book and just contemplated life.

    On the second day, I spend the morning by the pool, before heading for lunch and then to a bar to watch my favorite soccer team play its biggest rival. Again, the bar was pretty dead, despite it being a Saturday, but I had the occasional chat with the bar stuff. My team did not lose either, which was a relief as well.

    That was pretty much it, already. I would love to say that I enjoyed my time here, but I had rather spent it somewhere else. I think even during the peak time, the place would not really appeal to me unless l'd go with a bunch of friends to party, gamble and chill on the beach.

    Anyway, this is also travelling. Sometimes you are just curious about a place, check it out to then find out it wasn't worth your time. My next stop would also be on a beach but in a very tiny fishing village that I hoped would have a lot more charm than Punta del Este.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante

    Hola Uruguay - Visiting Colonial Colonia

    26–28 de nov. 2024, Uruguai ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Before I had to say a heartfelt goodbye to Maria, a couple of days earlier, I had received unfortunate news. My Antarctica cruise on which I was supposed to go on after Atacama, was cancelled due to damage on the ship (no further information was provided than that - I hope all the penguins are okay). Luckily, I got a full refund, but now I needed to adjust plans and find a new cruise to the white continent.

    Let's untangle all of these things first, however. After all, traveling at times can be chaotic and you definitely learn to adapt and be spontaneous. After a bit of contemplating how to reorganise the rest of my trip, I decided to go to Uruguay for two weeks, before I would meet up with my dad, who would join me on 10th December in Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Two weeks in Uruguay was plenty from what I could gather. Plus, I would get some time on the beach and in the sun after weeks in colder climates in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia.

    So, I spent a few more days in the Atacama desert not really doing much except meeting up with Ruud and Kim as well as Val and Chloe who I knew and met in Cotopaxi, Lima, Cusco and now Atacama. It was mostly catching up over drinks and dinner, which was perfect given the action-fuelled past couple of weeks.

    Then it was off to Uruguay. New country, of which I really didn't know much about. After spending a night in Buenos Aires, I jumped on a ferry to Colonia de Sacramento in Uruguay.

    It is a small, but cute colonial town that was heavily influenced by the Portuguese. There isn't necessarily much to do except explore the colourful and lovely town, watch the sunset and stroll around a little promenade by the water with an ice cream in hand. Its charm is that of a colonial past that can still be seen and felt when walking the cobblestone streets.

    I spent just two nights there, which was plenty given lots of people come here for a day trip from Buenos Aires. Nevertheless, I liked the colonial architecture of the town and thought it was a nice first impression of a new country.    Leia mais

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  • Martin HammerschmidtNairo2Rio - Around The WorldViajante
    1

    Atacama II - Horses And A Sad Goodbye

    22 de novembro de 2024, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    For our last day together, Maria and I opted for something that Maria hasn't done for a long time or ever - horseriding. I have heard before that it is quite cool to do it here and after my galloping through the Andean plains in Ecuador, I was down to do it again (but it was Maria’s suggestion, so credit to her). By our side were Ruud and Kim who were also keen to explore the surroundings on horses.
    So we quickly geared up with helmets and were on our way to the Devil's Throat, a valley/canyon just a short 30 minute horse ride away from the ranch. It was a good intro and compared to last time, my horse actually liked me.

    Once we arrived in the canyon, we almost immediately saw why it was such a great thing to do. High walls of rocks revealed a very narrow path that we followed along with our legs tightly pressed against the horses' body. Yes, it was that narrow. And on top of it, the horses sometimes had to climb up steep steps and pathways. It definitely wasn't a relaxed horse ride, but an exciting one. The colours of the rocks were sort of similar to the Moon Valley (maybe not quite as red), which added a beautiful touch to the scenery.

    After some time and more climbing up and holding tightly onto the horses' leash, we arrived at the plateau of the canyon and had stunning views over the landscape with towering volcanoes in the background. And I mean volcanoes, plural - we could at least spot 8-9 cone-shaped volcanoes. An incredible sight. In addition, my horse seemed to want to enjoy the view as well, as it was standing on the edge with her eyes focused on the vast landscape that had unfolded in front of us. The horse clearly recognised beauty when it saw it.

    Then came the ride down and holy moly was that steep. Our guide even asked us if we wanted to get off the horse and walk, but all of us were too excited about a little adrenalin.
    We really had to lean back, as the horses went down on the sandy terrain. It was such a cool experience.

    After riding a little bit longer alongside the canyon from the outer side, we slowly made our way back to town. That was after I realised that my horse and our guide's horse hated each other. My horse even tried to kick his horse, almost involuntarily throwing me off his back. Luckily I was holding onto the leash tightly.

    But yeah, that was Maria's and my last adventure together. It was a fitting end to our time together and I couldn't have asked for a better and more amazing person than her. Whatever dangerous, ridiculous and funny activity I threw at her, she didn't even think twice and was always up for doing them.
    I lost count of how often we laughed together or at each other, how often we called us stupid or cute names or how often we were wondering how crazy we were and what our parents were thinking if they saw what we were up to - esp Death Road, Silver Mines and the Horseriding. We shared countless beautiful moments together in which I wished I had the superpower to stop time.

    To this day, I cannot believe that it all started in my favorite place on earth - Antigua - back in July and survived time until this point. Maria coming all the way to Bolivia for her first 'real' trip outside of Guatemala and my birthday was an incredible and amazing gesture.

    The adventures and times we shared together in those past 2.5 weeks will always be with me until the end of days. For that, I will forever be grateful to Maria for having the patience, courage and sense of adventure to accompany me on part of my trip around the world. All that, made it, of course, a teary and truly heartfelt goodbye. TQ!    Leia mais

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