Espinosa to Atapuerca

Folks, today was a great day.

After waking up gratingly early (5am) I laid around in the dark for awhile before deciding to just hit the road. By about quarter past 6 I was stomping my little feet up the gravel path out of town, guided by moonlight. I was getting my bag sent ahead to my accommodation (a mere $10-$12, a marvellous service) to give my shin a fighting chance on this increased mileage, and felt free as a bird. A cold bird. It was chilly in the dark and I, of course, didn't have my jacket with me. But in the words of the great hiking forefathers - be bold, start cold.

Out of town the track gently turned to forest, ascending up a big hill. A wide gravel road under tree canopy, birdsong, and a sky that was slowly starting to colour. As I crested the hill, after maybe two hours, I was rubbing my grumpy tummy and realising how hungry I was. Not even a coffee this morning! 😞 And yet, up ahead, do I see something? Do my eyes deceive me? What's this? Only a man, his Subaru, a Pink Floyd album, and a track-side stall offering fresh fruit, water, hot drinks, snacks etc for pilgrims, by donation! 🥹 An answered prayer!! 🙏 I sat happily in one of his laid out camping chairs, enjoyed a coffee and a treat with gusto, before dumping a handful of coins on his table and continuing on, a spring in my step. What a lovely thing to do.

The rest of the walk was mainly flat, with gorgeous, still, overcast weather. I stopped for another coffee and tortilla in San Juan, and watched the swallows eat from wasp nests. I walked under the trees through a field and let a wild horse sniff my hand. I arrived in Atapuerca and had a beer.Read more