Atapuerca to Burgos

This morning was the first one I've had where it was a little hard getting out of bed. Privacy curtains have a great 'cubby effect', which has a powerful sway on my psyche. It was also absolutely pitch black in the room, and actually a bit chilly!! I treated myself as I often have to do, like a discombobulated small animal of prey, needing gentle coaxing into action. I slowly sat up to sit cross-legged on the bed, burrito wrapped myself in my sleeping bag, switched on my little cubby light and curdled before it like it was an exploding star. There I sat, grumbling and eye rubbing until I felt fit to move.

While not starting as early as yesterday, there was still about half an hour by moonlight to start the day. Heading up the hill, there was thick heavy fog, which, combined with the gnarled trees and hovering moon, made for highly atmospheric scenes.

The sky cleared and lightened as I made my way down the other side, where the trend continued of seeing fields and fields of sunflowers. I have never seen so many sunflowers in my life, millions of them. I genuinely can't imagine what it must be like to lay eyes on them all in bloom.

Lovely Korean spectacle man kept pace with me all day today, or rather I kept pace with him. Occasionally he would hum a tune or sing a little song as we walked along 10-20 metres from each other. I heard someone else ask him his name at a coffee stop, to which he replied with his thick Korean accent, "no name, have no name, just him". How delightfully mysterious. He also smokes like a chimney and is a very light packer. I like him a lot.

I got into Burgos quite tired, but couldn't access my dorm for a few more hours. I left my bag and set out to see the cathedral and Jesus H. Christ what a sight. Post incoming.Read more