Camino de Santiago

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日44
2024年5月5日日曜日 12:41
☁️ 18 °C
海抜: 185 m
ポルトガル Parque de Monserrate 38.792456, -9.42043338°47’33” N 9°25’14” W
1
Gardens of Monserrate
2024年5月5日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Applying the same approach to Sintra I use on charcuterie boards, I started at the edge of what I wanted to see (Monserrate) and worked my way in. After a small tiff with the guard about the queue directional signage (which didn't matter to begin with seeing as there wasn't one, but I'd argue if both me and the person in front made the same error the issue is the sign) I was into the palace grounds, which I explored over the next two and a half hours, saying wow a lot, and learning what a 'folly' is! You probably already know.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Bunya nut! I’ve seen a car after one fell on it 🫣
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旅行者Bootiful 🌳🍀🌸🪻🌼🌿
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4いいね
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日44
2024年5月5日日曜日 13:57
☁️ 19 °C
海抜: 160 m
ポルトガル Palácio de Monserrate 38.794231, -9.42076738°47’39” N 9°25’15” W
1
Palace of Monserrate
2024年5月5日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
You couldn't separate the grounds on this ticket and I have never knowingly wasted money so into the palace I went. This whole place has a very interesting political history, the very short and possibly wrong version of it being that it was the summer house for the royal court then some bloke took it on and lived his best life albeit taking on some serious renos then WWII happened and it turned into a bit of an artistic haven slash war effort factory? I didn't super pay attention to the placards, just ask Mr Google.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 💕
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日44
2024年5月5日日曜日 15:58
☁️ 17 °C
海抜: 271 m
ポルトガル Ponte do Almagre 38.794897, -9.396938°47’42” N 9°23’49” W
Quinta de Regaleria
2024年5月5日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
There were so many influencers here doing good work that I thoroughly relaxed about trying to capture the gist of it - evidently your social media platform of choice is choc full if you care to search. Just ridonk beautiful. Completely labyrinthine. I'm pleased I've practiced getting lost because you'd have a frustrating old time if you were resisting.もっと詳しく
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日44
2024年5月5日日曜日 18:09
☁️ 17 °C
海抜: 202 m
ポルトガル Largo Rainha Dona Amélia 38.799375, -9.38669238°47’58” N 9°23’12” W
Home is where the excellent lights are
2024年5月5日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Seven hours later I was back at the guesthouse, ready for a shower and a small sit down in my ROOMS - bed, sitting, and bath ooh la la king in the castle. All of them had great lights.
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旅行者So nice !!
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日44
2024年5月5日日曜日 19:09
☁️ 16 °C
海抜: 219 m
ポルトガル Quinta da Regaleira 38.796103, -9.39563138°47’46” N 9°23’44” W
Surfaces update
2024年5月5日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Some good'uns across the day!
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日44
2024年5月5日日曜日 20:46
☁️ 15 °C
海抜: 197 m
ポルトガル Largo Rainha Dona Amélia 38.798867, -9.38736438°47’56” N 9°23’15” W
2
Cod to finish
2024年5月5日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
If you'd asked me what I was hoping to get out of dinner, I'd have described exactly what happened - an enormous amount of very good fish in a restaurant run continuously by two guys since 1970 which has a TRAIN in the logo, and in which they're still storming around in their wool vests.

I'd have said I hope it's filled with their Portugese Martin Scorsese lookalike mates, and women that have been there since day dot, still loyal to their Farrah Fawcett blowouts, giving each other shit and ruffling kids hair as they run past.

By the end of it I'd crinkled my eyes at half the restaurant, got a pastry and a glass of port on the house, and nodded goodbye to a few tables on my way out. I walked three minutes home, flopped down, poured a tiny glass of port, then slipped between the cool sheets of a bed wider than I am tall.

Perfect. Day.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 I want this place!
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旅行者❤️
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日45
2024年5月6日月曜日 12:55
☀️ 17 °C
海抜: 363 m
ポルトガル Pena 38.790997, -9.39611438°47’28” N 9°23’46” W
1
Tramping up to Pena Palace, well fuelled
2024年5月6日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
The crisp linen bewitched me and for a brief moment I considered bunking off the breakfast, served 8 to 10am in a cafe up the road, in order to continue my clockwork exploration of sleeping positions (that's how I know it's wider than I am tall).

Shaking off this siren song, I got up there at 9.30, waved past some disappointed visitors into the 'closed' cafe upon flashing my ticket with that most wonderful of phrases "for you, it's open". I proceeded to have, rivaled by Braga alone, one of the best breakfasts in both food and service of the trip. I took the pastel de nata and a slab of fruit bread for walking snacks, and rolled back to bed until check out at 12.

When I did, the host and I discussed my plans to go to Pena Palace, the gardens only, and she told me her favourite spot in the 500 acres - an area the queen liked so much she had a throne carved into the rock so she could admire the view in style. It's hard to find, she warned, but if I did I was to show her the photos please.

It wasn't bad walking on the roads yesterday but when I heard that there were hiking trails, if rather half-heartedly signed, I was determined to use them. It didn't inspire much confidence at the start but it was in the right general direction and incline (my wayfinding criteria for the remainder of the day it would turn out) so I stuck with it and it really paid off.

I popped out onto the road with just a few switch backs to go, and it was hellish traffic so I was very pleased to have avoided that.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Aghhhhhhhggfghhh 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
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日45
2024年5月6日月曜日 13:31
☀️ 16 °C
海抜: 439 m
ポルトガル Monte da Lua 38.785839, -9.39159438°47’9” N 9°23’30” W
1
Real estate
2024年5月6日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Hello MTV welcome to the cribs I will be alternating between as I squat indefinitely in these gardens.
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旅行者 Too cute 😍
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日45
2024年5月6日月曜日 14:37
☀️ 17 °C
海抜: 459 m
ポルトガル Monte da Lua 38.784897, -9.39063338°47’6” N 9°23’26” W
Pena Palace gardens
2024年5月6日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
I'll say it again - five hundred acres. Starting at the furthest point, I walked up as far as I could to the High Cross at ~530m, and then worked my way down.

She wasn't joking about that throne, but I did find it in the end, and took a picture of my pastel de nata in a branded paper bag from this morning as a thank you to show this woman, figuring maybe they could put it on their Instagram or something.

I'm skipping ahead when I tell you that they did and were so sweet about it. It was also the best pdn (I'm on abbreviation terms with them now I think) I've had. What a breakfast.もっと詳しく
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旅行者What a great catch-up!!
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旅行者Too cute
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旅行者THESE GARDENS 🥰
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日45
2024年5月6日月曜日 17:29
🌬 17 °C
海抜: 492 m
ポルトガル Pena National Palace 38.787664, -9.390438°47’16” N 9°23’25” W
1 1 1
Pena Palace
2024年5月6日, ポルトガル ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
I'm aware I have a slight reputation for thinking I'm always right, but days like today really shore that up and after a while you do sort of have to look at the stats and reach a conclusion.

The garden only ticket is the way to bloody go. There's f i v e h u n d r e d acres of cool stuff, tiny unsigned paths you can get lost on, buildings, lakes, animals, and rocks you can climb.

What's more you can go round the entire outside of the castle, and not have to a) select a time slot when you buy your ticket and then stress about being there on time and b) stand around in the probably 400m long queue to shuffle through an interior which by all accounts is less interesting than the exterior.

You can walk past them and have a squiz and leave. It was EXCELLENT. And it was cheaper. I am right.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Insane
2024/05/09返信する
旅行者 More insane
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旅行者 Wow!
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日45
2024年5月6日月曜日 18:12
🌬 17 °C
海抜: 372 m
ポルトガル Pena 38.791189, -9.39143138°47’28” N 9°23’29” W
Tramping down from Pee-pee Poo-poo
2024年5月6日, ポルトガル ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
Trusting the brown squiggle on my hard copy map, I dodged the road and headed down what turned out to be a rock climbing route with tons of sweet rocks or whatever those in the scene might describe them as - pls advise.

It was marvellous and much more fun going down than it would have been going up, parts of it were treacherously steep. Yet again, old Magill has stumbled on the sweet spot, not only finding two lovely paths but also allocating them correctly. What's going on, this luck is unheard of, is it STILL Rusty karma?

I got the 6pm train back to Lisbon, for which I was ten minutes early and therefore got a seat. Many (older American) people chose a different approach and ran on basically as the doors were closing, then gaped around dumbly at the lack of seats.

Pre-Camino me chirped meekly from the cell she's been shoved in that might we not offer someone ours? She was promptly tased. A major goal of the trip was to get better at allowing others to experience reasonable discomfort without volunteering to swap for my own.

If they wanted a seat they could have got here on time and furthermore they're standing here like dopes in the carriage closest to the station entrance, should they move DOWN the train they might find one. Flush with exhilaration at another test passed, I remained seated.

From Rossio station it was a delightfully short walk to the next hostel - I'm sure I planned that but I've since forgotten so it's like that Ben Affleck movie where he sets up things for Uma Thurman before he has his memory wiped.もっと詳しく
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2いいね
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日46
2024年5月7日火曜日 9:03
☁️ 16 °C
海抜: 47 m
ポルトガル Jardim Botto Machado 38.715692, -9.12357538°42’56” N 9°7’25” W
1 1 1 1 1
Feira da Ladra
2024年5月7日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Lisbon is cool and hip, yeah, and I'M cool and hip, YEAH? I'll wait....

...good. So yes I'd seen a bit of social media content in the lead up to the trip because if anyone knows what I'm into, it's big Daddy Zuk. In particular, I'd been made very aware that on Saturdays and Tuesdays there's a flea market around the Pantheon and Mercato Santa Clara.

Well today's my last full day in Portugal, and it's Tuesday. Gird. Your. Loins. I got there as some stalls were still setting up, which is a good sign, although to be fair we all move very slowly in the mornings here, most shops open at 10am. On Camino I'd have done a third of the days graft by then but now I just schlep around yawning. I'm on holiday, leave me alone.

I pottered happily around the large completely dog ridden market for about three hours, noticing the heat of the day creeping up as the shaded sections became more wonderful (it was to reach 29 today). Bought nothing, but only because everything I liked really needed a Portugese villa to install it in - light fixtures, giant embroidered table cloths, things of that ilk.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 HAHAHA
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旅行者Three hours at a market! And you used to complain about how long we took at Evandale ha! 😅😚
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旅行者 It’s SO nice!
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日46
2024年5月7日火曜日 13:30
☁️ 23 °C
海抜: 85 m
ポルトガル Graça 38.716432, -9.12826638°42’59” N 9°7’42” W
Quite a brown lunch
2024年5月7日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
A bifana sort of looks like it sounds actually, and tastes much better than it looks. Which is to say, sometimes scraggly bits of pork on their own in a roll. Except the pork has been cooked really well and then I think marinated in something, shall Google later. It was so delicious - juicy and savoury.

I'd skimmed a blog to find out the scale of the market and it mentioned Tabernita is the sort of joint the stall holders will peel off to after they get bored. I wasn't looking for it, but I found it at the right time and there was a table free so what the heck. I am so enjoying letting things fall into my lap, and I seem to just be having outrageous luck floating along with the current.

I caught the woman's eye immediately, pointed to a table outside then raised my eyebrows and pointed to myself, the international sign for can I sit there please. She nodded, brought me a menu, then we repeated that easily at the point of ordering, she scribbled it down and whacked the carbon copy under the table clip. I didn't wait long for my food, and as I was enjoying it, I watched group after group have a nightmare trying to sort what I'd just managed.

One of these was a group of Chinese Americans, three young people and two older women. Can't for the life of me work out if the two opposite me were brother and sister or a couple but she was exceptionally sweet and he was a raging pessimistic knob, managed to find something to complain about at every turn, and at one point called her an idiot for squeezing her lemon higher from the plate than he thought appropriate. I do not understand why people choose to be miserable sacks of POO. I took a group photo for them and I hope he looked crap.もっと詳しく
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日46
2024年5月7日火曜日 15:06
☁️ 25 °C
海抜: 39 m
ポルトガル Jardim das Pichas Murchas 38.71248, -9.12900138°42’45” N 9°7’44” W
Alfama etcetera
2024年5月7日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Cruising back in the approximate direction of the hostel to collect my bag and transfer to the next one, I explored Alfama, the district that survived the devastating 1700s earthquake and is therefore still largely 12th century.

Doesn't that absolutely cave your bonce in? Other areas of the city were reconstructed afterwards, and to your average punter are still very old, but these little streets had stood for ages and many were too narrow for cars which delighted me, naturally.

These pictures will confuse because they aren't all Alfama but I'm squeezing things into posts now like I am to Baggins, please bear with.もっと詳しく
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日46
2024年5月7日火曜日 17:02
☁️ 26 °C
海抜: 74 m
ポルトガル Mosteiro de de Santo Antão-o-Velho 38.715474, -9.13115438°42’56” N 9°7’52” W
1
Hostel game tight
2024年5月7日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
It's been a culture shock moving from albergues to hostels, particularly as we come into big cities like Lisbon.

The days of rocking up on the day and handing over a tenner are long gone - you'll want to have had a reservation for some time and you'll be handing over at least $50, but I've seen up to $150/night - still bunk beds mind you! They are FANCY, they are dedicated to Having a Good Time. They won't stamp your credential but they'll take you on a pub crawl.

Layouts and facilities reflect a cultural shift from aesthetic walkers concerned chiefly with laundry, cooking, and sleeping, to Contiki abandon - huge common areas with pool tables and PlayStations, curtained beds to shield hungover eyes from daylight, and lockers for valuables we pilgrims did not carry.

Security is tight - you get key cards, fobs, chips on bracelets. Albergue doors were just open until they weren't - you walked in and out freely until they locked up for the night about 10pm, nobody had a pass. I can appreciate fully now how much trust that involves both for pilgrims and the community in each town.

The standard questions morph from how are your feet and how far will you go today to how old are you and what are you studying. I feel old and wise. I am the first up and the first to bed. I am friendly but reserved - we are on different paths.

Pictured here are the ones I just checked into and out of, respectively.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Um gorge and gorge
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旅行者 Eeeeee!
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日46
2024年5月7日火曜日 22:15
☁️ 20 °C
海抜: 20 m
ポルトガル Jardim da Cerca da Graça 38.719955, -9.13542938°43’12” N 9°8’8” W
The sun sets on Portugal
2024年5月7日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
My last night in Portugal was spent in aggressive application of the 'whatever you want babe' approach at a bar and bistro I specifically chose because it was called Josephine and I miss mine.

Sandwiched on either side were two acquisitions - a red vintage neckerchief in honour of Juan, and an extendable poster tube to keep my print safer in transit, as well as swallow up my Compostela. Along with everything else in the pack, they got thoroughly organised for the morning ahead, as I'd be heading to the airport by 9am.

Finally, I went and sat in the hostel garden with a prize from whack-a-carb earlier in the day, feeling the warm evening breeze on my bare arms, and feeling ready.もっと詳しく
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日47
2024年5月8日水曜日 16:14
☁️ 24 °C
海抜: 664 m
スペイン Palacio de Santa Cruz 40.414386, -3.70706440°24’52” N 3°42’25” W
1
First day with a flight in it
2024年5月8日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Wednesday 8 May is a milestone because it marks the (slow) start of my journey home - today I fly to Madrid, where I'll have just over 24 hours before I start the long haul tomorrow afternoon. It's odd to be at this point, time has felt very stretchy, but I'm feeling balanced about it all. I have had a wonderful time in Spain. I am having a wonderful time in Portugal. I am excited to return to my wonderful life in Tasmania. It's bloody rosy wherever you look!

Between quite a lot of metro trips (five transfers) and the flight, not a lot else happened today to be frank. I got a calamari sandwich that I'd believe was the best in Madrid, and I worked out the takeaway window saving me a very long time in the table queue. I wandered as per. I reckon if I'd come to Madrid straight from Camino I'd have fainted, it's so busy. I'm glad I had Portugal as a warm up.

It is nice to be back with Spanish though, I was feeling really dumb with Portugese it's such a tough language. I was even helpful to my dorm mates - unbelievably the thing I needed to tell them (she'd left her room card behind on the top bunk) involved some of my most commonly used words, the only way it could have been more perfectly suited was if she'd also forgotten a small coffee with milk.

Real Madrid is playing Bayern Munich tonight in the semi final of the European Cup and the city lets you know about that quite quickly - chants keep breaking out and those glorified traffic wardens are back, nursing their guns. I entertained notions of going somewhere rowdy to watch it but everything caught up with me at 6pm and I had a nap and continually refreshed the score at the rooftop bar instead. This was on a lag from the screams from surrounding buildings, but it did help clarify them.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 🤓🥺
2024/05/11返信する
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日48
2024年5月9日木曜日 9:30
☁️ 15 °C
海抜: 663 m
スペイン Cinco Gremios Mayores 40.412453, -3.70487540°24’45” N 3°42’18” W
'A luego!
2024年5月9日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
What a joy to spend some time with Spain and get to know her better. She even came up with a nickname for me. See you on the next Camino doll, I've got business class to check into.
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日49
2024年5月10日金曜日 2:52
☁️ 16 °C
海抜: 587 m
スペイン Arroyo de Valdebebas 40.500353, -3.55900840°30’1” N 3°33’32” W
1
Let's gooooo (bicep flex)
2024年5月10日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
We might not be the most efficient, but we points-princesses are certainly the most grateful to be here when it comes to business class. What a treat! They had to be patient with me coming to terms with how much power I wielded in the experience, I felt like a dog that could not believe it was allowed to sleep on the bed and kept expecting to be shooed. When did I want to eat? I was not aware that was up to me ma'am, oh lord.

I'm flying with Qatar, who hold arguably the best business class product in their Q-Suites, which are only on some of their fleet. I was expecting to have it Doha to Melbourne but not Madrid to Doha, so imagine my cartoonish grin when I saw that pod on both flights. I'm sorry, a ROOM? PYJAMAS? LOBSTER? It's ruined me for all future economy flights I'm afraid.

In the middle of the long one I pressed the call button (FRIGHTFULLY BOURGEOIS OF ME) to request a cardamom chai and the gentleman asked if I would like some cookies too? He started listing the types and must have seen me glaze over because then he said "or would you like me to make a selection for you" and quietly, that's the most attractive thing anyone has literally ever done in my presence. Yes king.

Print, Baggins and I all arrived safe and, in Baggins' case slightly damp (?) in Melbourne at midnight, and plummeted back to earth by crawling into a nook to wait until our Jetstar flight in the morning. I switched to this after they delayed my internationals because at 6.10am it was a few hours before the first Virgin flight out, but the cheeky buggers have already delayed me 45 minutes so we'll see.

I'm very excited to wear a jumper rather than my swishy puffer jacket, this has been a sensory goal for approximately five weeks.もっと詳しく
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旅行者One, LOVE this plane-king, impeccable, two, ugh sensory goals!!! Nothing on earth is more powerful. The strength of my sensory goals at the end of my vietnam trip could have rivaled the sun
2024/05/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者 OMG 😍
2024/05/11返信する
旅行者Love that you got the lux!
2024/05/11返信する翻訳する
3いいね
Camino de Santiago 旅行者
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日50
2024年5月11日土曜日 12:58
☁️ 16 °C
海抜: 159 m
オーストラリア Launceston Airport -41.547287, 147.20501741°32’50” S 147°12’18” E
My mortal enemy, fog
2024年5月11日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Well well well. There was fog at Hobart airport.

Delays grew, we boarded three hours late, we flew circles around the Great Lakes for some time waiting for it to shift, it did not, we diverted to land in Launceston, we refuelled and waited on the tarmac for the fog to shift, it did not.

We bussed to Hobart, we pulled over with a suspected flat tyre but kept going, not to the city mind you, naturally, the airport, where we promptly missed a turn and had to go round twice.

At nearly 4pm instead of 7.30am, I was boots on the ground in Hobart, and into Branna's arms, both of us laughing hysterically. She delivered me home, where thanks to her my plants were still alive and there was food in the fridge.

There were also coming home gifts! A letter, a card, a PAINTED PORTRAIT OF BYRON, BLOCKY YOU'RE UNBELIEVABLE, flowers, some thrifted treasures. How lucky am I to have a life this sweet waiting for me.もっと詳しく
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旅行者WTH, a delay of over eight hours on the home stretch! 🤯 But such a lovely reception. ❤️ Welcome back to Tassie Lexie and thanks for sharing your incredible journey in a very interesting and entertaining manner. You're incredibly talented. ✨
2024/05/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者Oh thank you 🥹 it's been wonderful to have you along on the ride! Xx
2024/05/12返信する翻訳する
旅行者❤️
2024/05/12返信する
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日50
2024年5月11日土曜日 16:32
☀️ 14 °C
海抜: 海水位
オーストラリア Battery Point -42.888391, 147.34849642°53’18” S 147°20’55” E
1
End of trip recap
2024年5月11日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Let's reflect.

🗓️TIME
Total days: 49
Days on Camino: 33
Rest days on Camino: 2

🗺️WALKING
Total: 1095km*
On Camino: 945km
Official route distance: 779km
Shortest walking day on Camino: 20km
Longest walking day Camino: 38km
Average walking day on Camino: 30km

*Note: incomplete data set, missing 23 and 24 March

🤸‍♀️EXPERIENCE
Weather: snow, hail, rain, sun, FOG
Cats pat: 28, all on Camino, nil Portugese cats
Times said buen camino and/or raised hand in greeting: five billion

🎖️MVP days:
- SJPP to Roncesvalles
- Zubiri to Pamplona
- Logrono to Najera
- Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino
- Villar de Mazarife to Astorga
- Foncebadon to Ponferrada
- Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero
- Sintra

💰SPEND
Accommodation: €787/$1259
Eating and drinking: €1006/$1609
Transport: €74/$118
Activities/entrance fees: €80/$128 (incl. spa)
Average albergue cost: €11.40/$18.20

💘LEARNINGS
Manyもっと詳しく
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旅行者¡Felicidades!
2024/05/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者Well done Lexie! I'm going to miss your posts.
2024/05/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者That’s impressive and I agree with you Jacquie, we're all going to miss our daily fix of your travel writing Lexie! It's been amazing.
2024/05/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Look at you 💞🥹
2024/05/11返信する翻訳する
5いいね
旅行の終了
2024年5月10日