• Nancy Webb...Pat Bonetar
  • Nancy Webb...Pat Bonetar

Hash-Packing the World

Whether you know me as Nancy Webb or Pat Bonetar, I hope you enjoyed my trip through 4 continents and 17 countries! I can't wait to do it again!! Läs mer
  • Welcome Back to Wellington

    25 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    My flight from Nadi to Auckland was a mess. How does a passenger aircraft forget to load the luggage? Anyway, we were at least two hours late taking off, so I missed my overnight bus, which was the last bus of the evening, from Auckland to Wellington. I would up flying down instead, so I got in around 23:00 last night. Ugh.

    Today is a Netflix day.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Haircut Day!

    26 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    I stayed in most of yesterday, preferring Netflix over tourism. However, I went to the Capital Hash House Harriers trail in the evening, meeting up with some friends and making new ones. Indian curry for dinner. Great day!

    Today, I got my hair cut! The length on the back of my neck was driving me crazy, so now it's down to a point in the back. Love it!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Being a Tourist

    27 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    After my haircut yesterday, I took the Wellington Cable Car up the hill and walked through the Cable Car Museum. I had planned on walking through the Botanical Gardens, but the wind and rain kept me inside.

    After that, I went back to the hotel for a bit, then I went to see the movie Green Book. Another incredible performance by Viggo Mortensen. If you haven't seen it yet, it's a really good based-on-a-true story that runs the gambit of emotions: love and hate, anger and contentment, joy and sorrow.

    After that, I had a couple of ciders at the Welsh Dragon pub. Yes, Tom Jones has been there 😉. Fifty years ago the building was a public toilet and it still has a striking shape, which you can see on Google Maps (https://maps.app.goo.gl/bKHE3).

    Today, I'm heading to the National War Memorial. But first, lunch at an authentic Japanese place, pork gyoza and udon noodle soup. Yummy!!!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Return to the South Island

    28 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After lunch yesterday, I visited the National War Memorial, then the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. The latter had a traveling exhibit of the Terracotta Warriors from China along with many bronze, Jade, and ceramic pieces. Incredible.

    The exhibit about the England-Maori treaty was interesting, and in the Maori section I found part of the Crown's apology letter outlining all the ways they broke the treaty. Efforts to return much of the stolen lands are still ongoing. Cool.

    Perhaps you remember the racehorse Pharlap? His skeleton is in the museum. His hide is in Australia, Melbourne I believe.

    Absolutely amazing was the section about Gallipoli, the extremely violent battle to thwart the Ottoman forces who were working with Germany during World War I. The literally larger than life figures were so detailed they looked real, down to the flies in the corned beef to the sweat running down a brow to the hairs on an arm. In the picture with the soldier raising his pistol you can see my flipflop on the floor. The figures are about 2.5 times larger than normal scale. Breathtaking.

    After the museum it was back to the hotel to pack and rest in preparation for today's ferry to the South Island. I'll catch the Stray bus again once we disembark in Picton, which we're just about to do.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Abel Tasman National Park

    29 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Yesterday, I caught the Stray bus from Picton to Marahau on the edge of Abel Tasman National Park. Other than a brief stop at a winery for a tasting and a grocery shopping adventure, we drove straight through. We all pitched in for dinner, dicing and slicing chicken, onions, mushrooms, and bell peppers for wraps. Yummy. It was an early night for me because I had to be up around 7. I made it to 6 to the chagrin of my five roommates.

    At 8 I was picked up by a company for a full-day kayak and hike trip. We kayaked north along the coast for 2.5 hours, delighting in the plentiful bird life (mainly terns dive bombing the water for fish) and the noisy five-month-old sea lion pups. Adorable!

    We're having lunch on the beach now and have been ambushed by a Weka, a flightless native bird that I call a Kiwi chicken. Apparently people feed them (a huge no no), so this one's come out of the bush to try for a handout. Cute and brazen, but there's nothing to be had from us. I'm dreading yet eager for my walk back to the campground/hostel. The guide Louisa says it's 10 kilometers/6 miles. Yikes!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Wheels on the Bus Go Round and Round

    30 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    After lunch yesterday, I did indeed make the long trek back to the hostel. 9.3 kilometers according to the signs (5.7 miles). Except for the first 500 meters straight up from the beach to the trail, it was pretty flat, and the path was terrific. I could hear the waves crashing below and was accompanied by birdsong the entire way. I also ran into another couple of wekas scouting the trail for either insects or handouts, maybe both. The end/start of the trail is marked by a beautifully carved Maori Arch.

    The next morning was an early one, leaving the campground at 07:00. We were sent off by a gorgeous sunrise, although my pictures from inside the bus don't do it justice.

    We stopped in Motueka for coffee, where I found this little Morris truck. The coffee stand lady said her father restored it, and it has now passed down to her. Too lovely.

    Now, we're on our way to Franz Josef for glacier hiking and hot springs. I hope they have some cold weather clothing I can borrow!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Franz Josef Glacier

    31 mars 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Just after yesterday's post, we stopped at Punakaiki to see the Pancake Rocks. Science can't fully explain how the rocks were formed, but they are very distinctive. Pancake is a great description.

    After that the bus pulled into Greymouth for a brief stop at a supermarket. Our next quick stop was in the town of Hokitika, which was once New Zealand's largest town because of the gold. Now, it's a place to buy beautiful greenstone, also called New Zealand jade.

    We arrived in Franz Josef after a very long drive but without incident, and the rest of the evening was me with a cold beer and a great book.

    Four days ago, very heavy rains flooded the river and washed out the town's bridge. Our group was the first to make it back into the town, for which I am very thankful. Because today has been amazing.

    We took a short helicopter lift right onto the glacier, then had a slow but pleasant walk on the ice. Slow because the guides were working on the path while we went, clearing existing steps in the ice and making some new footholds along the way. The rains changed the glacier's landscape quite dramatically, opening huge crevasses and even changing the direction of the river flowing under the ice. Franz Josef Glacier is one of a very few in the world that are located in temperate rainforest areas. They get more rain here than in the Amazon!

    By the way, they had cold weather gear for everyone, including waterproof overpants and jacket, boots, and sheep wool socks, mittens, and hat, although I wore my llama wool hat from Chile instead. We also wore crampons on our boots to make the trek a walk instead of a slide. 😉

    After the trek and helicopter lift back, I was straight in the hot pools at the same business. They only had three that weren't that hot--36, 38, and 40°C. But when it began to sprinkle, I got out of the 40° one to stand in the cold rain. Once I got goosebumps, I was right back in the pool, seemingly much hotter. Nice.

    All of that brings me to about 15:00 today. I usually stop at noon, but I wanted to get today all in one post. It was weird being so close to helicopters again, hearing them flying over the town, back and forth. The last time I heard them was in Afghanistan, and the sound brought back a lot of memories, both good and bad. But it was still a good day despite the bad memories.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the ICE. ✌️

    P.S.: While on the glacier, we saw several small ice calvings, when the ice at the edge falls off, and we heard a couple of very large ones. The big ones were deep, low rumbles growing in volumes until they crashed into silence. It was unnerving.
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  • Onward to Wanaka

    1 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    Yesterday evening was another one with a cold beer, a hot sandwich, and a good book.

    We left this morning at 06:45 and expect around a 13-hour drive. We have to take the long way to Wanaka since the bridge in Franz Josef was washed away.

    Now, we've stopped at Castle Hill for a bathroom break and a couple of quick pictures.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Onward to Queenstown

    2 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Yesterday afternoon we drove through some incredibly beautiful landscapes before arriving in Wanaka around 18:30. No wonder Lord of the Rings was filmed here. Everywhere you turn is different and unique. I wonder if J.R.R. Tolkien ever went to New Zealand and, if not, would he see his realms come to life here? I think he would.

    Last night at he hostel was karaoke. What fun!

    This morning was lazy since our drive was very short. I got up for breakfast and found that Ford Falcon 351 GT on the street. Sweet as! Then I walked along the lake to the Wanaka Willow in the water. Lovely.

    Now, we're on the road bound for Queenstown for two nights. Yay!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Pub Crawl & Just About to Bungy!

    3 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We arrived in Queenstown yesterday without incident. I bought some cold weather socks and a new pair of hiking pants that actually fit me. Then I did laundry. Clean clothes are so nice.

    The bar at the hostel, Loco, arranged a pub crawl for 15 of us. What an awesome night, and the Hash House Harriers prepared me well! First we got a meal then shots for making strikes or spares in Wii bowling, which I didn't get. I got everything else, though!!

    Our second place was at the Up Bar, where we did karaoke. I kicked it off with Heartache Tonight by Eagles. We were joined by a couple of Americans, one of whom had a plastic trombone. He and I did Oh Darlin' by The Beatles. Too fun! The four of us who did songs each won $25 NZD bar tab at Loco.

    Our third stop was to the Minus 5° Ice Bar (23°F). I won another $50 NZD bar tab for not wearing a coat the entire time (about 30 minutes) and a free ice shot for being the first one to get down to their skivvies (I had on a sports bra and shorts).

    Our final stop before going back to Loco was to The London, a pizza and beer joint. We had a 4-on-4 boat race (down a pint if beer as fast as you can). My team won bragging rights!

    Once we got back to Loco, I activated my $75 bar tab and bought drinks for everyone. Sweet as! Great night, and I was still in bed before midnight!

    This morning I checked in for my trip to Nevis Bungy & Swing, the creators of bungy jumping. Right now, we're in the basket on our way make the highest bungy jump in NZ at 134 meters/439 feet!!! Eek!!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • First Bungy Jump & Deep South Bound

    4 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Yesterday was my first bungy jump. 134 meters, New Zealand's highest. Absolutely incredible. Better than skydiving. I also did the new Catapult, which pulls you from 0 to 100 kilometers per hour in 1.5 seconds. Wow! What an amazing day. With all the adrenaline pumping into me then draining out, by the time I got back to the hostel, I was wiped. All I did for the rest of the evening was have a little dinner and read.

    We left this morning for the deep south. We're in Te Anau now for a grocery store stop. The country is just amazingly beautiful.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • More Gorgeous Scenery

    5 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    After leaving Te Anau yesterday, we made it through the stunning mountains, including a single lane tunnel over a kilometer long, until we found ourselves at Milford Sound. One of the prime tourist destinations in NZ, it was rainy and foggy for us. No dolphins, no sea lions, and no penguins. Poop.

    After that, we backed tracked through the tunnel to our turn off for Gunn's Camp, where we spent the night. It's very isolated, with wood stoves for heat, gas stoves for meals, and a part-time generator for power. It was cold enough that I wouldn't have been surprised to see snow when I stumbled out this morning.

    We backtracked all the way to Te Anau, which we've just left on our way further south. I wonder what magnificence awaits us today.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Stewart Island

    6 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Yesterday's drive was another very beautiful one, with a few stops for pictures along the way. Our ferry to Stewart Island departed at 17:15, and we made the hour-long crossing without issue.

    About eight of us settled into the hostel and had some dinner. Most of them went for a walk after dark in hope of seeing kiwis. I stayed in with my book since I'll be here for four nights.

    This morning I finished my book, then made a warm lunch, which will double as dinner later. Now, I'm about to start another book. My left sacroiliac joint has been out for a few days and it's taking a toll on my hip. I was planning on taking a walk in the many trails today, but no way. Man, do I miss the chiropractor.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Animals!

    7 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    So, after lunch yesterday I had an amazing wildlife adventure!!! We saw:
    Yellow-eyed penguins
    New Zealand fur seals
    White-capped albatrosses
    Bullers albatrosses
    Karere (New Zealand falcon)
    Stewart Island Weka
    Foveaux shags (type of cormorant)
    Southern brown kiwi (Tokoeka) (endemic to Stewart Island area)

    How amazing!!!

    Now I'm having lunch before another wildlife outing. Yippee!!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the WILDLIFE!! ✌️
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  • More Animals!

    8 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Yesterday's trip to Ulva Island was another incredible animal adventure! I couldn't get pictures of everything, but we saw:
    - More white-capped and Bullers albatrosses
    - Little blue penguins in the water (the same type of penguins I saw in Tasmania)
    - Variable oyster catchers
    - Bell birds (gorgeous birdsong)
    - Tui eating berries
    - Kaka (parrot) tearing the bark off a tree to expose the soft wood to insects. The bugs are then attracted to the tree, and the Kaka then feeds off of the bugs. This is the only agriculture in the world known to be conducted by birds.
    - Stewart Island variant of the weka (much smaller than main island wekas)
    - Brown creeper
    - Wood pigeon
    - Fantails
    - Yellow head mohua
    - Red crown kakareke (type of very rare parakeet)
    - Stewart Island robin
    - Blue sac mushrooms (poisonous)
    - A sleeping Kaka
    - Grey warbler

    After the boat trip return to Stewart Island, I read a bit and then went to the local pub for quiz night. Six of us girls finished around 6th place out of 20 teams. Not too shabby.

    Now, I'm in bed, where I've been all morning and will be all day. I'm freezing!! The hostel I'm at is nice, but they only run the radiators two hours in the morning (7-9) and two in the evening (5-7). It takes about an hour for the radiator to heat up, so by the time they turn off the system, it hasn't had a chance to knock the chill off the air in my room. It's a high of about 12°C/54°F and low of 6°C/42°F with no heat. I actually slept with a hot water bottle last night, but it would've been nicer if I couldn't see my breath in the room. This morning one of the employees gave me a third blanket. I'm toasty now (at 12°C outside), but am absolutely dreading tonight, my last night here.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the BIRDS! ✌️
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  • Not Quite As Cold

    9 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    I was so cold yesterday that I stayed in bed reading all day long. It was soooo nice in my room once I got the extra blanket put on the bed and the hot water bottle refilled. I did however, go for pizza at the local pub where we had quiz night.

    Today, I checked out and was hanging out on the sofa until they kicked everyone out at 11:30 for an hour to clean. So, I went down to the beach for a little while, where I am now. The wet weather really brought the temperature back in to not so cold, about 16°C/60°F right now, which is good in the semi-sun.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Yucky Day Driving to Mt. Cook

    10 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    After having yesterday's lunch at the pub--yummy Satay Chicken on top of fries with a salad--we took the 15:30 ferry back to Invercargill to get back on the Stray bus bound for Queenstown.

    We arrived around 20:00, so I checked in, got a meal next door, and hit the hay early.

    We left this morning at 09:15 (later than the planned 08:50) and are now making our way to Mt. Cook. It's rainy, though, so I doubt we'll be able to see anything. 😢

    Now, we've made a quick picture stop at the Lindis Pass Viewpoint, the highest elevation that the Stray bus goes, according to the bus driver. It doesn't feel like the highest, but whatever. It's just a yucky day to be sightseeing.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Never Saw the Mountain

    11 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    After viewing a beautiful rainbow over Lake Pukaki, we made it to the Mt. Cook accommodation without seeing the mountain because of the weather. We woke to not seeing the mountain because of the weather. We left the hostel without seeing the mountain because of the weather. 😢

    However, I did get to see, finally, a Kea flying when we passed over a very narrow bridge. The Kea is the world's only alpine parrot. I saw them at Willow Park Wildlife Sanctuary, but to see one in the wild was breathtaking.

    We've stopped in Tekapo for lunch and the hot springs, although I'm passing on the springs.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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  • Chillaxing on a Sunday Afternoon

    14 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    Akaroa was beautiful, despite the vast number if tourists off the cruise ship. We had lunch at a fairly famous fish shop and visited the Giant's House, which the artist/owner has turned into an outdoor gallery. Pretty cool.

    We finished the big day at the Red Light District bar in Christchurch, which on the outside looks like a dry cleaners. Sort of a speakeasy feel to it.

    Today, we're just hanging out on the sofa--always terrific--watching movies.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the FISH AND CHIPS. ✌️
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  • Maori Tattoo Day!

    15 april 2019, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    I got my Maori-style tattoo this morning, my sixth overall.

    I have been to so many places in my life, some incredibly beautiful, some horribly unforgettable.

    Of those, only six have left such an indelible impact on my life, both good and bad: Georgia (USA), Japan, Germany, Thailand, Fiji, and New Zealand. Why each of these are important I will keep to myself.

    To celebrate my passing though these places, reveling in some, surviving others, each of these now leaves a physical mark on my body. These are what must be remembered. These are what have made me me.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the INK! ✌️
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