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- Dag 1
- lørdag den 13. maj 2023 kl. 09.06
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Højde: Havoverfladen
CanadaBate Point49°10’36” N 123°56’30” W
Day -1

First leg of the trip--walk across Protection Island with approximately 20lbs on my back. Then we take my otter poop laden boat over to Nanaimo Yacht Club where we tie up and use the new hose and nozzle to blast of the night's latest otter dumps. Yes, plural. At least 2 on the bow deck and 2 or 3 on my new $6,000 (! Yes that is not a typo) canvas top.
I did the same yesterday. The boat has become a battle ground between island otters and NYC otters, each leaving a challenge for the other otter team as if to say 'Take that, you scum, try to beat this pile of shit.' And the opposite team does just that.
I am hoping a month long tie up on Nanaimo side brings the moving battle ground wars to a halt.
Next step park the car on Vancouver St. and catch the, Airporter to Nanaimo Airport.Læs mere
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- Dag 1
- lørdag den 13. maj 2023 kl. 10.57
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Højde: 22 m
CanadaNanaimo Airport49°3’12” N 123°52’24” W
Stage 2, Day -1

YCD aka Nanaimo to YYC aka Calgary.
So far, so good. Airporter was 10 minutes early and we were 20 mins early. I got a phone call from the driver "Are you wearing a blue shirt?" I look around and there he is two cars away. We were all sitting around waiting.Læs mere
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- Dag 1
- lørdag den 13. maj 2023 kl. 15.59
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Højde: 1.079 m
CanadaCalgary International Airport51°7’48” N 114°0’12” W
Day -1 Stage 3 Calgary

4 hour stopover which we are enjoying in a splendid Westjet airport lounge eating butter chicken, pasta, lattes, brownies, chips and banana bread. Tea time is next.
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- Dag 2
- søndag den 14. maj 2023 kl. 16.00
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Højde: 33 m
SpanienRoda de Berà41°10’48” N 1°27’12” E
Day -1 stage 4 BCN to Irunã

We are in good spirits but tired after very little sleep in the last 24? 36 hours? Who knows how long.
Barcelona train station is very busy. We are in the midst trying to figure out what platform we need to get to. Without a Spanish SIM card we can't download our train tickets so first stop is find a cell carrier.
Changing SIM cards has gotten so easy over the years. Nowadays you just pop it in and you are good to go with Spanish phone numbers.
Armed with tickets we are in our next leg...getting to Iruña aka Pamplona where the bulls (and young bucks) run down the streets. The fast train takes us through much dry ground under cloudy skies. I am hoping the Camino landscape is different.Læs mere
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- Dag 2
- søndag den 14. maj 2023 kl. 20.51
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Højde: 459 m
SpanienPlaza del Castillo42°49’0” N 1°38’30” W
Day minus 1 and start of day 0

We walked into the old city of Iruña from the train station. An easy 30 minute walk. It gave us confidence that we could walk uphill with our packs on.
The train was 10 minutes late. I was hoping it would be 15 minutes late as they have a commitment to be within 15 minutes of posted arrival or else you get a 50% refund.
We had booked in advance into Hostel Casa Ibarrola which advertises as a Japanese pod-style hostel. You get a pod cubicle with a locker at your foot, a shelf, light and plugin by your head and a pull down curtain for privacy. €21 per night and it includes coffee tea, toast. On the pricey side for pilgrims but a good way to ease into crowded noisy dorms with no privacy.
Being in Pamplona we had to go out for tapas aka pinxos so we walked down Calles de la Estafeta which was cafe after cafe offering incredible looking pinxos which were so temptingly tasty looking we ate them before taking any pictures.
We slept well!Læs mere
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- Dag 3
- mandag den 15. maj 2023 kl. 10.32
- Højde: 472 m
SpanienPlaza del Castillo42°48’54” N 1°38’24” W
Day 0 Pamplona

At a glance:
Kilometres walked: 12.03 going in circles
# of steps: 15,291
Elevation gain: 0
Food highlights: Tapas or pinxos! And cafe con leché and croissants.
Highlight: My favorite cafe, Cafe Iruña which was Hemingways favorite cafe too. And seeing Plaza des Toros where the bulls start their run.
We are here to figure out a Plan B and C. The once-a-day bus from Psmplona to St Jean Pied du Port is full! Plan B is to take the once a day bus to Ronsevalles, then take a taxi down the Pyrenees. Plan C is to hang around the bus station and pick up two more stranded pilgrims and share a taxi to St JPdP. Plan B is cheaper so we will do that first.
They have modernized this city in a way that keeps the old roads for pedestrians. Vehicle deliveries seem to be allowed before 10 a.m. and all parking of cars is below ground hidden from view, including the bus station. Check out the modern glass entrance to the station.
Meanwhile we took a walk along the ramparts (wall? My castle terminology is s bit rusty) of the medieval town, walked around the bull ring, took a photo of the Hemmingway monument which basically said he was an honorable party goer, and stopped in at the cathedral and the city archives where we walked around a wooden model of what the city looked like in 1920.
Plan B seems to be working. We are sitting on a bench infront of the Roncesvalles bus and are third in line.
Update. Plan B working. Teamed up with two women from Croatia . We phoned 6 taxi companies and the last one could take us...in an hour so we are waiting.
It worked. Once in St. Jean Pied du Port we headed to our lodging and then out to get our Camino credentials stamped to mark our official start, then bought walking poles. We felt we were ready to begin to walk the Camino.
We ran into the two Croatian women again at our albergue. They hadn't found a vacancy and it was now after 7pm. It was raining and 7pm is late to be looking for accomodation.
We're not sure what happened to them.Læs mere

RejsendeA rampart is a length of embankment or wall forming part of the defensive boundary of a castle, hillfort, settlement or other fortified site. It is usually broad-topped and made of excavated earth and/or masonry. Wikipedia
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- Dag 4
- tirsdag den 16. maj 2023 kl. 12.24
- 🌧 10 °C
- Højde: 838 m
FrankrigBois d’Orisson43°6’30” N 1°14’24” W
Day 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

Day 1 of walking.
At a glance:
Food highlights: Basque almond cake
Kilometres walked: 7.15 (note 6.9 was all uphill)
# of steps: 14,272
Elevation gain: @700 meters
Weather forecast has been dire with a high of 6 degrees and a low of 3C. And the next day a high of 7!
Some eager pilgrims were up at 5 tiptoeing around organizing their packs. Twice in the night I heard torrential downpours.
We doned wool leggings and long sleeved tops, shorts, tshirts, fleece jackets, and rain gear and headed put.
We found a bar opened and fueled up on croissants and cafe au lait.
The first hour we got wet from sweating under all those clothes and slowly disrobed which brought on a few sprinkles but nothing serious.
The second hour we walked into fog. Not long after we found Refuge Auberge Orisson emerging from the fog.
Basque cake for lunch and then another walk if you can believe it. The sun peeked out and the wind blew the fog away so we walked back 1k to see the view we had missed. Then had a nap and when we woke up to the sun shinning! We have fingers and toes crossed for sun tomorrow.Læs mere

RejsendeFrom what I have been reading this is the hardest part. You must have been ecstatic when the sun came out.

We were! Still a cold breeze but no rain. The next morning was even better. Sun practically all day. A miracle. [Lizhk]
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- Dag 5
- onsdag den 17. maj 2023 kl. 07.28
- ☁️ 4 °C
- Højde: 838 m
FrankrigBois d’Orisson43°6’30” N 1°14’24” W
Day 2 Orisson to Roncesvalles

At a glance:
Food highlights: a picnic of ham and cheese boccadilla complete with mountain view.
Kilometres walked: 16k, 12k of those uphill.
# of steps: 14,918
Elevation gain: 700metres
We were supposed to get a wet foggy day but it was mostly sunshine with a few clouds. Approaching the peak we had close encounters with fast moving clouds and had to wear 4 layers. But once over the peak it was perfect hiking weather, not too hot, not too cold.
We had reservations for the Albergue in Ronsevalles and weren't worrying about getting there for the great bed scramble but they close the doors st 10 and we hoped to be there in time for an afternoon nap. The last 3 times I never had reservations but word on the Camino is about how busy it is.
We had boccadillos made for us and found a south facing ridge which blocked the wind and gave us a close view of a herd of horses whose neck bells rang out a some sort of mountain music while we munched our sandwiches.
We took the easy route down, it wasn't steep and it wasn't well marked but I had fallen on the steep route years ago so the easy route was etched in my mind. Others ended up on it without knowing the risk. Sure enough, a very fit woman who shared our room the night before walked that route and fell but only bruised.
They ran out of beds. They have something like 125 beds and floor space with mattresses for another 100 for emergencies and they were all in use. Many people were turned away.
Just after 10pm as I was falling asleep, I heard the faint yell of a man 'Help'. Then a 'help, help, help' and banging on the door 3 floors below. They lock the doors st 10pm and I suspect he arrived after 10 but someone must have taken pity on him and let him in.
Thank goodness we had our backpacks transported for us!Læs mere
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- Dag 6
- torsdag den 18. maj 2023 kl. 07.44
- ☀️ 4 °C
- Højde: 940 m
SpanienRoncesvalles43°0’30” N 1°19’12” W
Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Zuburi

At a glance:
Food highlights: baguette picnic with sheep cheese and jam
Kilometres walked: 22.37
# of steps: 30,367
Elevation gain: minus 400m
Still no rain and a mostly downhill walk.
We left around 7:30 not staying for breakfast as I knew there was a bar 3km away that served croissants and at Roncesvalles is was dried baguette with jam.
We got to the bar and they were sold out of croissants so we had to make do with toasted baguette and jam.
Saw Steve, from near Stoke-on-Trent waiting for his godson Adam who had nipped into the cafe to get a stamp for his credential. Each stamp is unique and proves where you have been. The stamps are stamped onto your credential. Think of it as a passport with stamps.
Trudy and I just get the necessary stamp at each albergue we stay the night at. But Steve told us Adam wants as many stamps as possible, so he made him buy a bundle of credentials in advance.
Not 2 minutes after we left the cafe and there is Steve waiting for Adam outside a store. I hope we run into him again.
I forgot to mention that we met Steve and Adam at dinner in Orisson. Steve, a likeable portly character did part of the Camino a few years ago but suffered a stroke in the middle of nowhere. He thinks it was caused by a too tight knee brace that he took off when his feet were getting numb, and wham a blood clot hit. He had to walk to the nearest village, then bused to the nearest town, then a train and finally flew home to be diagnosed--a stroke (of luck). An epic trip.
Now he is back but this time with a guardian.Læs mere
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- Dag 7
- fredag den 19. maj 2023 kl. 12.11
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Højde: 477 m
SpanienZabaldika42°51’12” N 1°34’60” W
Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona

At a glance:
Highlight: the many wildflowers on the trail.
Food highlights: pintxos (tapas) again, a chopped mushroom in sauce on a slice of baguette
Kilometres walked: 23.3
# of steps: 30,219
Elevation gain: 150m
We are back in Pamplona and back at Cafe Iruña but this time eating an apple custard tart. The city is full of people and no beds to be had. There were no reservations available in the whole city. We sat next to two women who have to take a taxi to get to their accommodations at the edge of town.
The square infront of Cafe Iruña is packed and it isn't even 6pm. We plan on a nap and then out for tapas and pintxos.Læs mere
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- Dag 8
- lørdag den 20. maj 2023 kl. 10.42
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Højde: 454 m
SpanienEstatua de la MariBlanca42°49’0” N 1°39’0” W
Day 5 - Pamplona to Puenta de Reina

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: having a picnic at Alto de Perdón
Lowlight: realizing I was having an allergic reaction to something I ate.
Food highlights: Torta Txantxigorri
Kilometres walked: 20 km
# of steps: 29,411
Elevation gain: 300m
We had 5k of solid uphill climbing and 4 k of steep decline, so we decided to have our backpacks delivered to our next location and just carry our light daypack with food and foot gear (spare socks, foot repair stuff, etc.).
We had a lovely picnic 'Where the path of the wind meets that if the stars'. A place so high that nothing hinders the wind. Hence, windmills are strewn along the ridge.
As we were scrambling downhill, I felt the slight twinge of a possible allergic reaction. Here we were halfway down a mountain with no road access and I realized my epi-pen and antihistamines were in my backpack and not with me. There was only one way out if this, keep going and pray it was not going to be a bad reaction. The praying worked...after all, this IS a Camino...and I thought it was probably the baguette and a little cross contamination as I had asked at the bakery if there was sesame and he was sure there wasn't.
We made it down to a village, then caught a taxi to the town where we were going to stay and stopped first at the pharmacy for antihistamine.
At the same time I realized I was also allergic to either pollen or the plastic covering the pillows.
So now I sleep using my clothes bag as a pillow.
But in the meantime I had a couple of drug induced slower days.Læs mere
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- Dag 10
- mandag den 22. maj 2023 kl. 08.18
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Højde: 484 m
SpanienAyegui42°39’12” N 2°2’30” W
Day 7 - Estella to Los Arcos

At a glance:
Food highlights: drinking wine from a fountain.
Kilometres walked: 20.94
# of steps: 28,895
Elevation gain: 370m
A pleasant walk and perfect walking weather.morning café con leche in a gas station sin croissants. A short walk uphill to a blacksmith shop and then up to a winery that has a wine fountain built into their back wall. They donate 100 litres of wine per day to the pilgrims.
From then on we were mostly in oak forests and fields of grain.
We are seeing more grape vines and fig trees. Judging by the trunks, the vines must be 200 years old and the fig trees 200.
We stayed at Pension Ostadar a modern townhouse converted for pilgrims with a few more euros in their pockets. We had heard that the municipal albergues were very crowded and people were sleeping on foamies in the dining halls.
We met a couple from Alberta who almost bought a place on Protection Island.
We had spaghetti bolognese in the square with April and Brenda from USA and Margaret, a spry 75 with great legs and great personality from the Isle of Jersey.Læs mere

It sounds like you bounced back from the slower drug-induced days! That’s a lot of walking. And some good eating. It all sounds good. Thanks for the update. Looking forward to the next steps. Carol [Carol Matthews]

RejsendeA wine fountain and oak forests sounds like paradise. Saffron wonders why she wasn’t invited.
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- Dag 11
- tirsdag den 23. maj 2023 kl. 08.17
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Højde: 452 m
SpanienLos Arcos42°34’6” N 2°11’42” W
Day 8 - Los Arcos to Viana

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: ancient paintings on the roof of a church that was a ruin yet the paintings have survived amongst the rubble.
Food highlights: red peppers stuffed with spinach and walnuts in a tomato sauce. And lentil and chorizo soup. Oh, and white asparagus on our lunch picnic boccadilla.
Kilometres walked: 18.34k
# of steps: 28,842
Elevation gain: 150m but some of it was lost and regained.
Our choice was to walk 28k or 18k. We chose (wisely I think) 18k. Trudy, however, felt she could walk the 28k. I replied that I could too but it wouldn't be fun.
Trudy woke from a dream that she and Peter and others were at Barry Lortons who with Elvane who were hosting a potluck and neighbours and friends were bring food. Later today you got an email from Elvane that Barry had died. He had suffered from bladder cancer. Barry was one of those characters that make the world more interesting. Sad to not have him here.
We have become immersed in the social life of the Camino constantly running into the same people. Today we had coffee with four Aussies, whom we met at Orison, on our first day. This evening we had dinner next to them. One of them Viv, originally from England, worked as a hairdresser on the Alaska cruise ships back on 1975. She worked for a hair salon that had salons around the world and ended up in Australia.
Tristan, with whom we shared a room, is having foot issues but still walking.Læs mere

What a strange coincidence, that dream. I had no idea that Barry was sick. Lots of happy memories of dinners with him on PI. Love to you both [Alison Watt]

RejsendeWhere is this church. Any date on the facade or ruins. Happy walking.
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- Dag 12
- onsdag den 24. maj 2023 kl. 07.39
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Højde: 484 m
SpanienOndarre42°30’54” N 2°22’24” W
Day 9 - Viana to Navarrete

At a glance:
Highlight: the incredible gilt work in the Church of the Assumption in Navarrete.
Food highlights: chocolate dipped cookies
Kilometres walked: 27.11
# of steps: 35,307
Elevation gain: an easy 150m
We are in Rioja, land of grapes and wine. We passed an experimental vineyard of white Tempranillo grapes, a genetic mutation of the traditional red grape. They were experimenting something or other....our Spanish is challenged by research projects ...but each row of vines was carefully marked.
We were overconfident today, day 9 with no blisters. We ignored our usual rule of taking a break, airing our feet every hour and changing our socks at lunch. Both Trudy and i now have a blister each on our heels.
Tomorrow we have to get to the Municipal Albergue in Azofra before 3pm, 23k away, else we lose our reservation.
We are in a private hostel tonight, 2 beds, shared bathroom, a pillow case and bottom sheet, no towels, access to a kitchen for a total of €38.
Empanadas (ham and cheese) potato chips and cookies for dinner. No lunch, just chocolate and an orange and a few sunflower seeds.Læs mere

Rejsendeohh so sorry to hear about your blisters! I hope the trip to Azofra was relatively easy and that you made it in time!

RejsendeWe did. We actually arrived before they opened at 2. Blisters were fine. We sewed a thread into them to relieve pressure and keep then draine6.

RejsendeYou mention the many people hiking, yet few of your photos of towns and landscapes are peopled. Is this because you are selecting shots to show the feature or is much of the walking as open and quiet as the scenes appear?

RejsendeSurprisingly the pilgrims are spread out. I think most get up st 6 and are gone by the time we wake up.
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- Dag 13
- torsdag den 25. maj 2023 kl. 08.11
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Højde: 603 m
SpanienVentosa42°24’42” N 2°36’54” W
Day 10 - Navarrete to Azofra

At a glance:
Food highlights: vegetable stew and a flan for dessert
Kilometres walked: 22.24
# of steps: 29,664
Elevation gain: 200m mostly a slow climb.
A quiet day for the most part walking on paths and narrow country roads between vineyards. The old vines have 4-6" diameters and are pruned right back to knee high, the new growth rising up another foot, maybe two. No wires or a supporting trellis nor any signs of a watering system yet right across the path are newer vines with a water system and the older growth trained along a wire support. I wonder how different the harvest is?
Tonight we are at a Municipal albergue. Municipal albergues vary greatly but are usuaĺy a tad grungy and they are all cheap. This one however, is a modern albergue whose construction surpasses most municipal albergues. For €12 each we each get a bed in a room for two. Not a bunk bed. There is a foot pool in the courtyard to soak your aching feet but only one young man braves the cool temperature. Deluxe!
The town is small and only one restaurant with the typical pilgrim menu 1st course mixed salad or vegetable soup, 2nd course chicken, or pork or calamari or eggs and chips and 3rd course ice cream on a popsicle sticker flan.
We met Michael a young adventurous Aussie (with clean feet from soaking in the foot bath) who joined us for dinner.
Michael is tattooed all over with nose and lip rings and dread locks.
He told us that like Cheryl Strayed (author of Wild) he had no clue of what he was doing when he embarked on a 1,000km across Australia hike. He soon learned tins of food were not the way to go. Yet here he is wearing a heavy cotton! (heavy and never dries) hoodie and a too heavy pack which includes a laptop and foul weather sea going gear which he needs for a hoped for job on a yacht. We told him about Ivar in Santiago who runs a Camino forum and a luggage storage service.
He told us that after the Camino he was going to Canada next . 'We're from Canada. Where in Canada are you going?'
'British Columbia.'
'We're from BC. Where in BC?'
'Vancouver island. '
'We're from Vancouver Island. Where on Vancouver Are you going? '
' A place called Nanimo or something like that.'
'We are from Nanaimo. '
It's a small world.Læs mere
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- Dag 14
- fredag den 26. maj 2023 kl. 09.07
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Højde: 612 m
SpanienCiriñuela42°25’36” N 2°52’0” W
Day 11 - Azofra to Grañon

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: going to mass in a church, sleeping in a church, eating in a church, having a ceremony in a church with 40 others.
Food highlights: Risotto cooked by Michael
Kilometres walked: 21.72k
# of steps: 28,756
Elevation gain: 210m
We have continued to have good walking weather--breezy ambient temperatures. Today was rolling hills of wheat and barley and no grape vines.
We finished in Grañón in a church hospital for pilgrims.
It is a donotavito albergue. Our donations feed tomorrow's pilgrims.
As we register the hospitalio asks us if we can be the chief chef. We look horrified and suggest we are better being told what to do.
Michael is here too. He volunteers to be the head chef.
All 40 of us help. The team of 4 Italian bicyclists are experts with a knife. The 3 young women are born salad makers. Trudy chops tomatoes, carrots, peaches, potatoes, whatever came her way.
I suddenly remember our 2nd night, at Roncesvalles waiting to be let into the dinning room. I had noticed 3 young women in front of us and when the door finally opened a young man quickly placed himself near them so he would be placed at a table with them (and us plus a few others). That young man was Michael and the 3 women were now making salad. There are 20 of us sleeping on mattresses on the floor. We have a private door from our sleeping room into the loft overlooking the pews, altar and gilt carvings. We just spent an hour each of us, one at a time holding a candle saying a few words on our Camino experience before passing the candle to the next person. Now we sleep. Ricardo introduces himself as we slip into our respective sleeping systems. He gives me permission to push him if he snores. It's nice to know who you are sleeping with.Læs mere
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- Dag 15
- lørdag den 27. maj 2023 kl. 07.43
- ☀️ 11 °C
- Højde: 720 m
SpanienGrañón42°27’6” N 3°1’30” W
Day 12 - Grañón to Villafranca Monte de

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: stayed in a pilgrims tradition hospital San Anton Abad
Food highlights: chicken in orange sauce
Kilometres walked: a measly 12k
# of steps: 15,596
Elevation gain: 213m
We need to skip the equivalent of 3 stages (days) in order to get to Lyon where they have train services. So we are skipping 12 kilometers today by taking a bus then walking. That is, if we can find the bus stop and if the bar tender read the schedule correctly.
Ricardo left behind an ear bud which I passed on to a fellow Italian pilgrim who knew Ricardo. Unfortunately, this evening we ran into Ricardo, and his name is not Ricardo, it is Lorenzo! I should have kept the ear bud as Lorenzo hasn't seen his fellow pilgrim who has his $200 earbud.
We sat next to two men at dinner and when one mentioned BC Liquor stores, we chatted with them. They grew up in Victoria, one, Steve, ended up in Abbotsford and Mike in London but kept in touch with each other and when they retired they decided to do the Camino together.Læs mere
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- Dag 16
- søndag den 28. maj 2023 kl. 07.41
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Højde: 982 m
SpanienVillafranca-Montes de Oca42°23’18” N 3°18’42” W
Day 13 - Villafranca to Atapueca

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: The museum at Atapuerca
Food highlights: our foraged croissants
Kilometres walked: 17.22
# of steps: 24,623
Elevation gain: 205m
Breakfast was included with our very expensive accommodations ($112 for 2) so we made good use of it and snuck out a croissant stuffed with ham and cheese each for lunch.
It was a 1 or 2k slog right off the bat up 200 m before going downhill for 50 and back up. Good to get it over and done with first thing in the morning.
We passed through a beautiful oak forest and a fit looking man in his 30s who had his backpack on a 2wheeled shopping cart. Maybe he had a bad back . He was obviously struggling.
Once at the top the forest turned into a pine forest.
6 k on Michael passes us. He is only carrying a little canvas bag. His first day sending his heavy 20+lb. bag ahead. He was so thankful not to have worn it up the hill.
He had a 30k day and was feeling it wouldn't be a problem without the weight of his pack. He flew on ahead of us.
Another 5K and at a cafe we run into Lorenzo and the woman from the Netherlands with very short hair. He hasn't found his ear bud yet nor the fellow who has it. I should have kept the ear bud as this is the second time I could have returned it.
He too saw Michael and Michael told him the name of his sous chef Dorio. Dorio has, the now trail famous, ear bud.
There are 2 young women chatting. One is wearing bright red lipstick and the other is admiring it and her determination to wear it on the Camino. Red lipstick!
We run into a man, who said he was Ukrainian and a translator but he lost his job and can't find work. He had with him two dogs and a huge backpack going the opposite way. He is broke and out of food for his dogs so we give him some change.
We stop early for our picnic near a fountain in the entrance to town of Agés.
Lorenzo stopped to get water and tells us the lipstick wearing woman gave him Dorios cell number. Hopefully they will now connect.
We race the last 1k into Atapuerca trying and succeeding to beat the black stormy clouds that are thundering close by.
Atapuerca is famous for being the one place in the world where they have found bones from many hominid species and from many different time periods from as far back as 1.2mill years ago.
We spent almost an hour in the small museum in town where the eager woman there shows us just about everything they have. I notice they have the 3 volume set of Malaspina's voyages and mention I worked for Malaspina University. After some chitchat about Malaspina I mention I am interested in finding out if he collected textiles from the PNW and if so where would they be? She knows a Malaspina expert and will ask.Læs mere
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- Dag 17
- mandag den 29. maj 2023 kl. 07.03
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Højde: 907 m
SpanienRío Santiago42°17’13” N 4°11’6” W
Day 14- Atapuerca to Burgos

At a glance
Cultural highlight: the Cathedral Santa Maria in Burgos
Food highlights: Tortilla (potato & egg pie) topped with a local sausage Mocella which looks like blood sausage and a grain and tastes like haggis.
Kilometres walked: 20.6k
# of steps: 27,541
Elevation gain: +126 for the 1st k then -247m
A quiet easy walk to Burgos. We opted for the less known river route which was noisy with birds and very pleasant.
We arrived at the municipal albergue (€10 ea ) just before it opened and waited in line meeting Larry a senior from Friday Harbour. Trudy's seniors rail card fell out when the man was registering us and he waved his proudly too. I think it was the seniors card which got us a semi private room with only one bunk bed.
Also in the line was Lorenzo once again. He had connected with Dorio and was expecting to be reunited with his Apple Air Bud tonight.
We did our wash and hung it up to dry under darkening clouds and headed out in a downpour to tour Santa Maria Catedral. Amazing cathedral. By coincidence, Cathy and I had been there for medival days when the catedral was filled with lords and ladies.
We got back and decided to splurge €3 to use the dryer with a fellow who was having dinner with Lorenzo. We made a deal. We would pay for the dryer and he was in charge if getting it out in 35 mins.
Now the big news. Lorenzo had a big smile and opened his Apple Air Pod case happily showing me a complete pair.
We ate at a restaurant that had menus in English, with junked honey or tree chocolate cake on the menu, along with Hake goes in the oven. Trudy had a very boney sea bass with salad and decided to stick with other options in future.
As we head back in the rain to the alburgue we spot someone in bright rescue red foul weather gear. There could only be one person carrying that. Yes, Michael. He is planning a short day tomorrow as he wants to go from donativo to donativo and a short day will put him onto a convenient donitivo schedule.Læs mere
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- Dag 18
- tirsdag den 30. maj 2023 kl. 10.56
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Højde: 844 m
SpanienRabé de las Calzadas42°20’24” N 3°50’42” W
Day 15 - Burgos to Hornillos

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: having a nun bless us and put a medallion of the virgin Mary around our necks.
Food highlights: a neopolitano or is it a neapoleano for breakfast....pastry stuffed with chocolate. Paella for 30 for dinner.
Kilometres walked: 19.53k oh heck, call it 20k
# of steps: 29,966
Elevation gain:103Læs mere
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- Dag 20
- torsdag den 1. juni 2023 kl. 06.56
- ☀️ 11 °C
- Højde: 787 m
SpanienCastrogeriz42°17’24” N 4°8’54” W
Day 17 - Castrojerez to Boardillo

At a glance:
Food highlights: Communal dinner of lentil soup, chicken stew and ice cream
Kilometres walked 20.54k
# of steps: 25,133
Elevation gain: 249m in 1k!
I recognized the hill. Last time I did it in the heat of the day and it was awful. I don't do well in heat and I don't do well going uphill. So I was thankful that it was not even 7:30 a.m. Trudy, the ever ready bunny however, just keeps on going. We ran into San Juan Islander Larry again near 10 a.m.. He doesn't do well in the sun so tries to be out the door before six am. Our alarm doesn't go off until six but still we caught up to him and chatted for a few minutes.
We also ran I to....or I should say Peta ran I to us on her Brompton bike. She had to push it up the 12% grade hill for 1k and walk it down the 18% grade for .5k. Luckily she ran into James who helped push on the uphill.
The remainder of the hike is gental pathways and wildflowers and fields of wheat and barley. We have been resting our feet regularly as Trudy's feet have blisters.
We made it to EnEl Camino. The family runs a traditional albergue on one side of the street and on the other a fancier Casa Rural. We didn't know which we were booked in and I happily paid the €45 for the fancy modern room with 2 beds and shiny tiled floors and a skylight that opens and a bathroom window looking out at the church roof with stork nests with the young working out. Once again the beds have real sheets!
I recognize the man at the reception. He has more grey in his hair than in 2018 and he still flirts. I seem to recall he worked in Toronto for a year or so on his youth
At 7:00 pm we join Paula, Sue and Larry (and others) at the long communal dinner table. We are served a delicious meal of soup, second course of stew and salad as well as ice cream for dessert . The conversation flows and we find out that
Sue, Paula and Larry all worked at social assistance type of professions. We guess the Camino attacks them.
Not sure where we got in.Læs mere
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- Dag 21
- fredag den 2. juni 2023 kl. 18.39
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Højde: 786 m
SpanienBoadilla del Camino42°15’42” N 4°21’12” W
Day 18- Boadilla to Carrion de los Conde

At a glance:
Cultural highlight:
Food highlights: lunch picnic: croissants with cheese and peach jam (Liz) and dinner of a tasty stew (Trudy)
Kilometres walked: 32k!
# of steps: 41,785!
Elevation gain: nothing to speak of until kilometer 27 when we were tired and a 29m rise looked like a mountain.
We walked along a long canal where fishermen threw baskets to catch crayfish, The canal was noisy with frogs and bird song. We dodged mudpuddles on the track and aired our feet often. We stopped for our picnic lunch and changed our socks to prevent worsening of my (Trudy) blisters After about 12 km the canal trail joined the Pilgrim track and we were away from any shade. There were the usual cereal crops (wheat and barley as well as as fallow) along the side of the track. The last kilometers were coming up and there was only the highway, a hill and hot sun. However soon to çome was the sound of thunder. Dark clouds and intermittent breaks of sun highlighting the fields made a beautiful pattern in the distance. We walked on and soon saw the church towers of Carrion de los Condes in the distance. Hostal Santiago was in the middle of town on the plaza near a church with stork nests and we could hear their guttural chatter from the open skylight. Liz insisted we head to the medical clinic for them to look at my blisters as my ankle was getting a bit swollen. I was a bit reluctant to go because I was worried that the orders might mean to rest. Anyhow the clinic was closed as it was 2:00 pm so we went back to the hostal to shower and wash clothes. Liz had lost her shade umbrella on the trail. She was hoping that a pilgrim would pick it up and bring it forward to Carrion. A very beautiful athletic (always doing stretches when not walking) woman had reported seeing it and had left it on the side of the track, thinking it belonged to a local, at least an hour and half back from our coffee break spot. So we went shopping in hardware, shoe and outdoor stores in this very small village. I was surprised that we eventually found a pretty good folding umbrella in an outdoor store.
We had dinner by chance with Paula and Sue again.
The Centro de Salud opened at 6pm so we went and joined a line up of other pilgrims with foot issues and some locals. A woman came out after 6pm and let some folks in but blisters were not urgent so I waited. Liz returned the hostal to bring in the laundry as the rain had started. We also tried phoning the medical insurance company. Many phone calls later I just reached the company as I was escorted into the clinic. Luckily Liz persisted with the calls (note from Liz: I impersonated Trudy while she was getting treated...you have to start a claim BEFORE getting treatment. Fo not pass this on the any Medoc company people).
There were so many questions I would have given up. The technician also had many questions and reams of forms to sign etc. I estimate that it was a good 20 (note from Liz: 5 ) minutes inside before a doctor came in to look at the worst blister. I had about 5 blisters but they only looked at the one on my right heel as we pointed to it. That blister had opened earlier and a wad of pus had come out. However when they took off the Compede dressing off only a relatively small amount of murky fluid came out (note from Liz: a lot more than small amount!). The doctor declared it was more like a sprained ankle and prescribed Ibuprofen, rest, icing, physiotherapy and some sort of ankle brace (Liz: and change blister coverings ightly for 2 more nights a d keep an eye on it). I couldn't see how we could accommodate all this (Liz: easy).
Liz: And NO more walking for a few days.
When we came out of the clinic there was Paula who also was suffering from foot blisters. I told her what the doctor had said and she decided not to go into the clinic and just treat them herself with her foot care kit and rest.
Given our timing we decided to go to Sahagun together, see the town and go from there.
So our walk had ended two days before we had planned.Læs mere
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- Dag 23
- søndag den 4. juni 2023 kl. 18.01
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Højde: 831 m
SpanienPlaza San Marcelo42°35’36” N 5°34’12” W
Day 20 - Leon

At a glance:
Cultural highlight: Casa Botines, A Goudy designed building now a Goudy Museum. And a tour of The Church of San Franscisco of Assidi by a Franciscan monk.
Food highlights: Nougat Ice cream and Apple and Cheese ice cream.
Kilometres walked: 14.37
# of steps: 17,911
We packed up, checked out of the EC hostel and walked into Lyon proper. As checkin to the Hostel Quartier León Jabalquinto was at 2pm we decided to have coffee and visit the Goudy museum.
Casa de Botines was set on a large plaza on the outside it was characterized by round towers and 4 floors and a slate roof. It could easily be a castle. Goudy spent considerable time in the 1860's in Leon designing the structure ( one of only three buildings built outside of Barcelona) to accommodate the alluvial floodplain, align with the celestial sky and fulfill both a practical and spiritual function. The first floor was originally a fabric centre and a bank. The second, third and fourth floor were residences joined by spiral stairs. The third floor showed some of the furniture of the period including chairs tables and desks. I was also impressed by a reconstruction of a dental office with frightening looking drills. The fourth floor was mostly paintings of various eras from the 10th century, thtough to Picasso and up until modern impressionist work.
One interesting display centered on a spiral with weights hanging from lengths of string. This was meant to show what building angles could work from the inside out. Back outside the museum was a sculpture of
a lion (Leon's namesake) coming out what looked like an underground septic access drain.
At a bit after 2pm we navigated to Hostal Quatier Leon and checked into a very nice room on the first floor with 3 white sheeted beds. My foot was dressed and chilled by a gel ice pack found in the kitchen fridge. We met Paula who wanted to meet at 4:30 so after a shower and foot rest we wandered over to the St. Francisco monastery for a tour. We joined a small group and a very kindly monk showed us the alters that had come from the Santa Maria Cathedral, the doorway with brightly coloured wooden pieces representing the different nationalities and a cross. Part of the monastery was used as a trade school for auto mechanics and engineers while other rooms were used for needy families. There was also a display of art from from persons with leukemia. The inner garden or cloister was quite peaceful and had a labyrinth of hedges, roses and fruit trees.
After the tour finished one tourist was moved to a have a confession with the monk. Outside the church was a statue showing St. Francis the patron saint of animals. Although we didn't attend the later mass, I was moved by the gentle and kind spirit of the monk.
Paula had had a late lunch so didn't want dinner but Liz and I were ever hungry so found a bar with dinner choices. We have come to realize that although the streets are full of people at 7:00 pm, nobody really eats until well after 8:00 pm. So we did some street wandering ourselves and finally landed upon the Green Corner restuarant and bar. Liz had an Ensalada Roussa ( Russian potato salad) and grilled chicken and eggs
and I had an Ensalada Mixta and Pollo Milanese (Grilled chicken). The dinner was OK but nothing to write home about.Læs mere
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- Dag 24
- mandag den 5. juni 2023
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Højde: 837 m
SpanienParque Del Cid Campeador42°35’54” N 5°33’54” W
Day 21 Leon

This was a day where we shopped for attire for the wedding and also visited the Cathedral. Liz had bandaged my foot so it didn't look so bad. Paula needed to buy some new shoes for walking the Camino. We walked to the el Ingles Cortes, a 6 story shopping mall near the stadium. Spanish women are so stylish there was sure to be something there. I am not accustomed to shopping so I found the mall somewhat overwhelming. We had two wedding events to attend so I needed two new outfits. I tried on a few clothes on the first floor and ended with a pair of green pants and matching shirt. Up we went to the sixth floor after Liz found a little blue dress and Liberty shirt. I became desperate as this was my last chance to shop before the wedding. What would be suitable for the wedding and for other events on Protection Island? Various dresses were not suitable but finally decided upon a long green linen skirt with buttons down the front. Next it was Paula's turn. She found some bright colored Hoka runners which made our runners look dull and dirty by comparison! Soon we were back at the hostel, and set off to view the Cathedral of Leon. Another beautiful structure with gilted alters and many stained glass windows.
On the way back we stopped at grocery store and bought food to prepare in the hostel kitchen.
Back at the hostel we showered, rested and bandaged up my foot. We prepared pizza and a sandwich for dinner and Paula shared her flan with us. We needed to get to bed early as we had an early train to catch in the morning so said goodbye to Paula and headed to our room for the night.Læs mere
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- Dag 26
- onsdag den 7. juni 2023
- ☁️ 24 °C
- Højde: 11 m
SpanienPlaya Torredembarra41°8’36” N 1°23’48” E
Tarragona

My brother Ernie had met us by chance the day before on the bus from Tarragona to La Mora. We spent the evening getting settled in our shared apartment Airbnb. We all slept in after our days of travelling and woke up to have tea on the outside porch . The weather here in Tarragona seems to be warm but cloudy. After breakfast on the beach we set out to explore the trail to Castile de Tamarit where the wedding takes place.
There was groups of kids having a marvelous time on the beach. They were swimming, playing volleyball and generally having fun. It seems like kids in Spain have much more fun on school field trips than kids at home.
The trail at the end of the beach took us up and down through pine forests. It was quite rocky in spots and we decided probably not suitable to negotiate in our wedding attire despite the trail being short.
The Castile de Tamarit was a marvelous looking structure of stone. From our Tarragona side we could see an infinity swimming pool so it was only a short stretch of imagination to think what the castle was like inside. The castle was built on the point of land as a strategic site to ward off pirates on the Mediterranean. The castle was started in the 11th century and then in the 12th century a Romanesque tower was built. Thereafter it was taken over by Saracens and eventually abandoned due to a bout of malaria. It was bought and modernized with electricity and water. Nowadays it is only used for private functions such as weddings.
Around the corner of the point there was a long beach. Walking along all of a sudden I heard "Trudy" and it was Michelle my sister-Iaws twin sister. We joined she, husband Craig and friends Listera and Doug at the cafe and had great chats about the Camino, metal detecting and the wedding.
Then we went to a small pocket beach just off the castle. Ernie had a swim and we watched groups of kids in wet suits going off swimming and jumping off the rocks. Soon it was getting to be the time to get ready for the pre-wedding meet and greet so we wandered back, taking in views of the Mediterranean.
At about 6:30 we caught a bus to Caladonia Campground. It appeared that we were the first people at the affair so checked out this very posh "camping" area which was nothing like campgrounds we have at home with cabins and a party venue complete with screen and sound system.
Liz and I ended up sitting with Michell and Craig and Listra and Doug then there was Kathryn and Russ. There was lots of great Latin dance music and soon everybody was up dancing! Ernie snapped photos and we all partied until after 11pm. We met Alex's family and friends who were all fantastic dancers. Alex and Emily had a wonderful time as did Hugh and Giselle.
We had decided to walk home and followed Google's suggested path. Big mistake as it followed a busy road with no lights and not much of a shoulder. We had to use our cell phone light to find our way and warn oncoming cars. Eventually we got off the highway and onto a quiet safe road and back to the Airbnb.Læs mere
Looks great!M How are your feet doing? Love M [Mother]
RejsendeFeet are doing just fine.