Day 18 on the Camino

Santibanez to Rabanal dal Camino. 33ish kilometres.
7am breakfast and then 7 hours on the road... Well, we do walk most of the time, but for a quick water break here and there and a lunch around 20km in.
These recent days have been similar and different,but very much into the routine of pounding out the first 15 or 20kms - it seems to be the last 10 to 15 that take as long and are the harder.
It was 12km to Astorga this morning, along a gravel track next to the road (sound similar?) A steep climb up into the town, past the ‘Spa Hotel’ and then where? It was market day, all the stalls were set up on both side of the street (you know the markets from 30 years ago back home, and the noise was wonderful). However this proved a problem to us pilgrims. We couldn’t see the way, the shells on the floor or yellow arrows were covered by stalls. Other pilgrims in front were as equally confused. So, we looked up towards the cathedral spire and went in that sort of direction. And what a site when we got there... Gaudi’s Palace and the cathedral side by side. We resisted and looked, thought and carried on.
Out of the town we had wide tracks, white tracks, road and rocky paths. We had every sort of path that would cause blisters either by rubbing or just ripping the feet. The road was the best, a little spongy under foot too, but then you had to deal with the Spanish drivers.
Corn fields are giving way to pine plantations and cows. We gradually went 300m as we headed to our abode for the night. The last 7km between villages was tough, but with some BP 109 music we made it. A real rural retreat, a courtyard and collection of connecting buildings. The bedroom feels like a large barn, and we have top bunks pushed together tonight.
We had a washing scare, as showers have been falling this evening - spoiling the clear skies.
Bed seems to be coming earlier too...Read more