Central America 2017

January - February 2017
A 52-day adventure by Meaghan's Travels Read more
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  • 40.8kkilometers
  • 35.2kkilometers
  • Day 8

    Alot of highs and a low

    January 10, 2017 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Big day today. I hired a car the night before so I was ready to set off early in the morning. First stop was the 7 eleven atm then off I went.

    The plan was to go to various cenotes as I am abit obsessed with them and I wanted to see as many as possible.

    First one was the Grand Cenote just out of Tulum. Not so grand after all.
    Next was the Car Wash Cenote - yes thats the name. That one was like a minature lake and you could walk around it through the bush which was nice.

    Next I was headed for a cenote near the town of Coba. Well I missed the turnoff by a long shot and decided to keep on driving to Chichen Itza a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Mexico's major tourist destinations. Its even been named one of the new seven wonders of the world although there has been abit of controversy around the process of selection.

    Long drive but it was fate as I had thought about going the night before.

    So of coursework I got there at the worst possible time and had to queue for about 40 minutes. But the ruins were impressive. The experience is spoilt by the street vendors who are all over the site and constantly blowing into these wooden whistles which make very realistic tiger and jaguar sounds. And you get the usual hawking and offers of goods 'so cheap its practically free'.

    On the way back I ended up driving through a lovely colonial town called Valladolid (I was driving without a map and relying on signs!). Anyway it had lots of lovely buildings and pastel colours.

    Some of the highway stalls make for great photos as you can see.

    On returning the hire car - disaster! My credit card is gone and its the one that doesn't charge for currency conversion. Retracing my steps I might have left it in the atm or dropped it in the 7 eleven.

    When I ask at the 7 eleven they pull out about 15 credit cards! Sadly mine is not there so email home to get the card cancelled was next on the agenda.

    A bad end to a great day but I can't let it ruin (ha ha) things.
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  • Day 9

    Another country!

    January 11, 2017 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Belize today! And from now on all the remaining countries have zika travel warnings. We leave early and take a mini van to Belize. We stopped for breakfast at this great cafe/bar in Bacalar and as you can see I had no trouble finding the perfect spot!

    Its right on a lagoon and so peaceful and relaxing.

    At the mexican border we all get out of the van get our luggage and walk through customs then get into the van and cross the border then drive through a no man's land. Then at the Belize border out again with the luggage and walk through customs. And in the heat with the queues it was exhausting.

    I asked our tour guide to show us where the mexican border actually was and he didn't know! He's mexican and supposedly one of the tour company's very knowledgeable guides! We were all
    speechless.
    So I started walking around and found it!

    We got to San Pedro then caught a boat to Caye Caulker which was exhilarating. Beautiful blue ocean sitting outside on the boat with the breeze.

    Caye Caulker is so relaxing and the water is so blue. We have three nights here which is great.

    I attend my first group dinner at a local restaurant which is much cheaper than the touristy places.

    And what does zika scared girl who has with her every conceivable mosquito bite prevention measure do on her first night?! Go out in a t shirt and cropped pants with no mosquito repellent!!

    Overall Belize is on par with any western country re its prices but you can still eat cheaply.
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  • Day 10

    One with the sea in Caye Caukler

    January 12, 2017 in Belize ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    A fantastic day snorkeling. Whilst the reef wasn't very colourful the fish, giant sea turtles, sting ray and nurse sharks that we swam with were incredible! A real highlight.

    Wish I had had an underwater camera but on the other hand that would take you away from being in the momentl.

    This time with the sea turtles you were really close in crystal clear water and I got to do a mermaid dance (over under and beside it) with one of them as it swam around. I had to make sure I didn't touch it. Such docile and beautiful creatures. Although I did see one get very annoyed with a smaller mate knocking it until it swam away! I guess we all have days where alone time is required!

    There were quite a few sting rays as well but the turtles got my attention every time!

    I was so absorbed everyone else was back on the boat and one of the crew had to come and get me!

    Next was swimming with the sharks which was so exciting! There were so many of them and schools of colourful fish swam around you. Once again could have stayed there for ages.

    We also saw a ship wreck which was interesting - apparently it was carrying cement power and in a storm it got wet and the extra weight sank the ship!

    We even saw Dorie from Finding Nemo and the elusive angel fish which is on the Belize dollar.

    At night we went for a stroll down the main street and for dinner had a burrito from a street vendor where all the locals were going. $1.75 and it was huge with lots of filling.

    Next I decided I would check out the local reggie bar which opens at midnight! I had arranged to meet some of the group after they finished having drinks at the Sports Bar. Yes the name pretty much sums it up and its for tourists only although the young Belize men hang out there as well then move onto the reggie bar.

    The Belize men are very 'attentive' and marriage proposals are common. And if you can't get picked up at a bar in under a minute then there is something wrong with you!

    So we get to the reggie bar and every drunk backbacker who is staying on the island is there. Lots of dancing and they had the cool bar swings.
    I lasted about half an hour! But at least I checked it out, had a drink, a dance and declined three belizian men. Not bad for half an hour.
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  • Day 11

    Chilling with the blue!

    January 13, 2017 in Belize ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Relaxing day today and these are some of my favourite days.

    Walked around town stopping in various spots just staring at the ocean - various photos of my chill zones attached.

    Got a chicken egg and cheese flapjack from a little place run by two women for breakfast. So cheap and so filling it was breakfast and lunch.

    Had such a lovely day. For dinner I went back to the street vendor and then for dessert I wanted to try the key lime pie from a women who sells slices of homemade cakes and desserts outside her home but she had sold out. Disappointed! But good for her!
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  • Day 12

    The ruins I didn't climb

    January 14, 2017 in Belize ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Early departure from Caye Caulker and a boat, taxi and public bus later we arrive at San Ignacio.

    Not much to the town but it is a base to explore nearby ruins, caves, waterfalls and reserves.

    We have lunch at the town's market - $2 for a quasadia and 10 cents for 2 bananas.

    Then we catch a bus to the Xunantunjch ruins. And I am pretty sure the bus driver had his foot flat to the ground - at one stage I thought we were going to take off! After crossing the river on a barge its a 15 minute walk we are told. A 15 minute walk uphill in the sun! You can see the photo of my view at the back of the pack!

    The ruins are in a lovely quiet setting with few tourists.

    You can see the pyramid I didn't climb!! You can also see my red face! I lay under a tree in the shade minding the bags! But as there was no one around it was lovely and peaceful.

    Bus back to town early dinner and bed! The hotel doesn't have air conditioning included in the price and its $20US extra a night. There are two fans though so they should blow any mosquitos away!

    Usually I crank the air conditioning up to artic temperatures and sleep in long soaks, long pants and a long sleeved top. Pretty sure no mosquito is going to get through that!

    In the evening we strolled around the very busy town centre. We ended up sitting on the stage in the park in the centre of town eating our yummy street food. My tacos were $1.75 and my friends had a chicken and rice dish for $4.00. Then we found an ice cream place and had 2 scoops for $4.00.

    A very nice day.
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  • Day 13

    Done it but never going to do it again!!

    January 15, 2017 in Belize ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today we are doing a guided tour of Actun Tunichhil Muknal cave (ATM for short). Numbers are restricted and you can only do it with a registered tour guide.

    We had to swim across a few rivers then when we got to the cave we swam into it. Then with our helmuts with flashlights we waded right into the cave. There was alot of climbing up and down through the water. The cave was fascinating and the crystallations sparkled. Although alot of it has died due to a lack of rainfall. In mayan times there was no water.
    But it was hard going!!

    The footwear was socks and crocs and mine were a size too small and they basically had no grip! And with my foot still healing from the ruptured ligaments I don't have the balance and strength that I did pre injury.

    So I had to tread carefully and take my time so the guide took me up the front and held my hand which gave me the extra stability I needed.

    Then we got to this huge rock which we had to climb up. So the guide tells me to basically do the side splits as the first part of getting up the rock! Couldn't do it and as I thought they were just going to walk over the limestone in soaks and the guide said they would be back soon I stayed behind.

    So at first it was quite nice being in the cave by myself and I found a nice rock to sit on with my feet in the water but as time marched on I thought something isn't right. I watched a group go up and their guide showed them a much easier way up. There were two vital steps our guide missed which meant no side splits!

    Then I watched another group go back the way we came and I thought OMG the main point of the tour is up there!!!! So I was one cranky $95US out of pocket person on a tight budget.

    Anyway thank god one of guides offered to take me up and I was up that rock very quickly and we speed climbed deeper into the cave!

    And there was the highlight! The site of the maya sacrifices. It was incredible.

    A huge space that is called the Cathedral and it really looks like one. Beautiful stalactites and stalagmites and lots of simmering.

    Lots of pots everywhere that would have contained offerings to the rain gods. And then the saddest part is seeing all the skeletons of the human sacrifices including seven children the youngest 18 months. The way they died was kept a secret but it was violent. They could be disembowelled, their beating heart pulled out, skull mashed or mutilated. It was all about letting as much blood as possible as an offering to the raingods.
    It was a great honor to be a sacrifice and supposedly they were volunteers.

    The 18 month old had its skull smashed and the axe is laying next to the skeleton. Another skeleton is laying on its back which means it was probably disembowelled.

    The mayans thought the cave was full of evil so going into it showed the gods how brave they were.

    No cameras are allowed after a French tourist was leaning over the rope getting close to a skull (he obviously had never heard of zooming) and dropped his camera smashing the skull!! Clearly he had not heard of a safety strap either. The Government then closed the caves. The guides then lobbied for them to be re opened with camera restrictions. They tell you if you try to sneak a camera in their jobs are on the line.

    So a long trek back and an early night for me. Exhausted!

    No photos of the cave so random Belize photos attached. The little guy did a fine job of trying to sell me things! The little girl is his sister and was in the stall having a great time swinging away! Under the sign saying no alcohol is where the town drunks hang out! And Zuly's had some great food.
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  • Day 14

    Off to Guatemala!

    January 16, 2017 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We set off in the pouring rain to the border. We didn't have to unload our bags this time which was good.
    Driving over the border was like driving through a car wash!

    Stopped by a nice lake for lunch then off to the camping site where we are spending the night. I am fantasizing about a 5 star hotel!

    Next its three hours walking through the Tikal mayan ruins. Fantastic! Its in the jungle with few tourists and the ruins are impressive. And true tropical weather as you can see.

    Then after the worst nachos of my life we went to our tents. Hot, sweaty and covered in sunscreen and mosquito repellent we went to bed in our clothes. Me of course am using my pop up mosquito net for the first time in a tent in the pitch black as my camera battery is nearly flat! I sort of get it up and that will have to do!

    A very uncomfortable night on a thin mat with questionable sheets.
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  • Day 15

    I never wanted to do it!

    January 17, 2017 in Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Camping in an old tent with holes in it in mosquito land. No thanks!

    The mist in the early morning was nice though.

    But the shower block wasn't used by anyone!

    But disaster I can't get the pop up mosquito net back into the tiny circle!! Everyone in the group tries. Even the swiss guy who can solve a rubiks cube in under a minute can't solve it. So it has to go in the bus as a fairly large circle. And yes I did watch the you tube instruction on how to fold it and thought I got this! Wrong! Once I get wi fi I will have to watch it again - closely!!

    We drive through the country side to our next destination Rio Dulce which is set on a lake.

    The country side on the way is beautiful but there was alot of poverty and people living in one room timber shacks.

    On the way we stop at Flores which is a lovely little town on a tiny island.

    Then we stop in Rio Dulce to have lunch and stock up on food as the jungle retreat only has the one restaurant. The main street is crazy with heavy traffic and lots of people walking down the fairly narrow road. Very easy to get run over and a van reverses into us giving us a scare.

    I do quite well and manage to get some yoghurt bread avocados tomatoes bananas and a bag of sliced mango. Then I find a place that does smoothies so with alot of sign language I get the best banano and fresa (banana and strawberry) smoothie. They must have sweet tooths here as she offered to put a tablespoon of sugar in!

    Then with the huge mosquito net we get on a boat and get to our jungle retreat on the river. Its heaven.
    I am a real sight with the mosquito net!

    My room is gorgeous and we have an outdoor lounge area facing the jungle and a shared bathroom and there are only two of us in the little house like structure.

    Rest of the afternoon spent relaxing and had a nice dinner in the restaurant which overlooks the river.

    Mosquito net put to use and an early night.
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