• mg.bigadventure
sep. 2016 – mai 2017

mg.bigadventure

Et 255-dagers eventyr av mg.bigadventure Les mer
  • Reflections on Costa Rica

    8. februar 2017, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was our last day in Cahuita and our penultimate day in Costa Rica. We walked into the National Park again this morning. We saw white-faced capuchin monkeys - they come down lower in the trees than the howler monkeys, so they're easier to photograph; they also seem a bit more curious and cheekier! We saw a couple more sloths, including one very active (non-sloth- like!) one, and some racoons (including 2 baby ones up a tree). This time we spent more time on the beach - Solana loved dodging the waves and body surfing with Laura and we all enjoyed walking along in the surf. A heron came by at one point to join in - you'll see it in the photo! This evening our dinner plan didn't quite work out and we ended up having to put Solana to bed early (she was tired out) and having a "dinner" of microwave popcorn and beer! We're now doing some sorting of all of our stuff, ready for the onward journey - boring but necessary.

    There is lots still the same about Costa Rica as it was when we first visited nearly 12 years ago but some things have changed. The internet is an obvious change - and that has changed the way people travel (more people seem to book ahead at accommodation, rather than just turn up and look around - which means if you do the latter, it is harder to find somewhere - as we found to our peril in Alajuela!). There seem to be a wider range of people travelling here - last time we came it was mostly young Americans whereas now there are more Europeans, French Canadian, more older people and more families with children. There are a few more surfaced roads I think but still plenty of bumpy unsurfaced ones, and more people hire cars or travel in air-conditioned minibuses than by public bus than there were before (including us as it turns out!). The country seems more ecologically aware and into trying to protect the environment, animals and recycling than it was 12 years ago too. More people speak some English than we found before. The food is much the same (still rice and beans heavy!) but and more menus are bilingual (Spanish and English). The national currency is Colones but US dollars are far more widely accepted than they used to be - almost everywhere. But the most noticeable thing is how much more expensive everything is - it is not far off European prices and our nightly budget of US$20 from 12 years ago would barely buy us a pillowcase now!

    We have thoroughly enjoyed our visit here and would highly recommend visiting Costa Rica if you ever have the chance. The wildlife in particular is absolutely amazing - if you have even a passing interest in wildlife, add it to your "to visit" list. We have managed to spot and identify 10 species of mammals, 15 species of reptiles/amphibians and 71 species of birds, even though we were without a guide most of the time. Solana has now decided she'd like to be a wildlife guide when she grows up! It has some of the most accessible rainforest, cloud forest and volcanoes in the world. The beaches are good, the weather is warm and it still feels like a pretty safe country. It is more expensive than we'd expected (bargain on similar prices to mainland Spain I'd say) but that wouldn't matter as much for a 2-week holiday and the experiences we've had here have been amazing. Maybe we should have asked for commission from the Costa Rica tourist board to help make up our budget deficit?.....!
    Les mer

  • Last day in Costa Rica

    9. februar 2017, Costa Rica ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today we left Cahuita and travelled back to San Jose, the capital city. The journey was not quite as smooth as we' d hoped but we made it eventually. We planned to leave on the 9.30am bus but it was full, so we had to get the 1.30pm bus instead. The journey was supposed to take 4 hours but it ended up taking closer to 6 hours, as the traffic was bad in a few places and also our bus got stopped by armed police and we all had to get off and have our bags searched.... We finally arrived around 7.30pm. Solana was too tired to go out for dinner, so we ended up eating crisps & cake instead! Just done some budgeting and realised we've withdrawn 956,000 Costa Rican Colones whilst we've been here - almost millionaires but not quite.... Apparently we'll hit the heights of "millionaire" status when we get to Vietnam. Hoping for a good night's sleep tonight as it may well be the last one we get for a while... Tomorrow (Friday) we fly out of San Jose, via Atlanta and Amsterdam, arriving in Glasgow on Saturday afternoon. Then we have 2 days staying with Laura's family, before flying out to Vietnam on Tuesday. Sounds tiring just writing it - I somehow don't think the next few days will be the finest of our trip... We're looking forward to a few home comforts before we fly out of UK again though - top of the list being the washing machine!!!Les mer

  • Home comforts in Scotland

    13. februar 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    After 26.5 hours of travelling we arrived safely in Troon, Scotland, at teatime on Saturday. It was lovely to feel a breath of icy cold air when we stepped off the plane in Amsterdam! The relative lack of trees in Britain compared to Costa Rica was striking too... Returning via UK before the next leg of our travels made the flights nearly £2k cheaper and has enabled us to visit Laura's family too. Backtracking like this seemed daft when we were planning our travels but we are all enjoying a couple of days of home comforts - comfy bed, home-cooked food, the space of a house and most of all the much-needed washing machine! Yesterday we want for a walk in the woods and we were all a bit chilly to say the least! Seeing a blanket of snowdrops made up for it though. Species count in Troon - birds 4 (crow, herring gull, starling, oystercatcher), mammals 1 (Laura's Mum's dog, Toffee)! Oh, and the gaudy model parrot we saw in the fairy garden!!! Today Solana got to spend time with her cousins, Finlay and Emma, which she loved.

    Things we've particularly appreciated being back here are good cups of tea, "normal" food, clean clothes, not having to plaster ourselves in sunscreen & DEET, not having to calculate money conversions in the 1000s and having clean feet! Tonight's task is to finish the re-packing, ready for our 2 long flights to Hanoi via Dubai....
    Les mer

  • Good morning (or is it night?) Vietnam

    16. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After travelling 14,900 miles, two journeys >24 hours and visiting 7 international airports in just a few days since San Jose, we are now in Hanoi, Vietnam. We arrived on Wednesday evening and have spent a couple of days exploring the city and trying to recover from our jet lag. The jet lag is proving more difficult than Costa Rica - our own fault for arranging a schedule that traversed 13 hours of time zones in 5 days I suppose (UK is 6hr ahead of Costa Rica & Vietnam is 7hr ahead of UK)....

    On our first day in Hanoi (after having woken up at 2.30am) we wandered around the old quarter, exploring the streets and learning how to cross the road. I have never seen so many mopeds in my life (it makes Italy look positively tame!) and you need some nerve to cross the road, especially with a 4-year-old in tow... Every street has a theme, with shops mostly selling the same type of thing - so far we've seen silk street, toy st, moped repair st, jewellery st, jade st, light st, hardware st and noodle st, amongst others. Our hotel is near Hoan Kiem Lake, so we walked along the lake shore and also visited Ngoc Son Temple, which is on an island in the lake and you get to it by walking across a picturesque red bridge. The temple gardens were small but a lovely tranquil haven from the bustle of the city, with beautiful bonsai trees. We sat by the lake eating a snack after the temple, when a group of local secondary school children asked to interview us about New Year for a school project (see picture). They found it hilarious that we don't wear any special clothes or eat any special food at new year! It was interesting talking to them. In the afternoon we went to see the water puppet show, thinking it would be a great thing to do with Solana. Unfortunately she fell asleep in the sling on the way there and when we woke her up to see the puppet show, she was scared and didn't like it! A shame because it was actually quite good and I ended up missing most of it... Solana fell asleep again later in the afternoon; we tried to wake her for dinner but she was so tired she was unrousable, so we ended up taking her out asleep - she slept through dinner and the walk back!
    Les mer

  • Hanoi

    17. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We started the day at 1am when Solana woke and couldn't get back to sleep - we all finally managed to drop back off around 5am, only to struggle to get up again at 7... We got a cyclo taxi (like a rickshaw) to Ho Chi Minh mausoleum site in the morning. The ride itself was fun, if a bit hair-raising with traffic coming at us from all angles at intersections! We got to see Ho Chi Minh's house on stilts, the one pillar pagoda and some lovely gardens with plenty of bonsai trees and koi carp swimming around. There was a nursery trip visiting at the same time too, which was cute to see. We have seen a bit of wildlife so far in Vietnam, although nothing on the scale of Costa Rica - bird count now about 7 and mammals 3 (black squirrel, bat and rat!).

    In the evening we went out to the night market, where we enjoyed wandering round the stalls (with Solana in the sling on Laura's back so she didn't get lost - it was pretty busy!). We invested in a neck pillow for Solana, to help her sleep on buses, trains, etc - hoping it will be a good investment of 100,000 Dong (about £4)! We also ate at an open-air restaurant there - tasty fried beef noodles, cooked on a little burner outside - 2 dishes plus beers for about £6.50 (which would have barely bought us a piece of cheese in Costa Rica!). Solana managed to stay awake until around 8:30pm and we re-packed, ready for our trip to Halong Bay.
    Les mer

  • The wonders of Halong Bay

    18. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    On Saturday we set off on a 2-night trip to iconic Halong Bay. After a 3:30am start to the day (jet lag still plaguing us), we got on a bus to Halong Bay. Once at the dock, we boarded our boat, Imperial Legend, for the rest of the day & night. It was a smallish boat, with about 10 cabin bedrooms on 2 floors, a dining room and a sun deck upstairs - quite homely. We ate lunch on the boat and did some cruising around the bay. We were very lucky with the weather - it is normally cloudy or foggy at this time of year but we had 2 days of clear sunny weather and the views were amazing. Halong Bay is one of those places that you see pictures of in books and think it won't be as good as that in real life - but it really was beautiful, a definite trip highlight. Sorry Mam & Pete - I know you're still gutted that you didn't get to see it last year because of the storm and we feel gutted for you now too... Laura went out kayaking for an hour, then we all went swimming off the boat. The water was pretty cold but lovely once you were in, and very special to be swimming with such fantastic scenery all around. We watched the sunset from the deck - also beautiful. Solana couldn't stay awake long enough for dinner but luckily our cabin was close to the dining room, so she stayed in bed & we were both still able to eat. After dinner we had a go at squid fishing - unsuccessful but enjoyable!Les mer

  • Halong Bay day 2 - Nam Cat island

    19. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This morning we got up early for Tai Chi exercises on the boat deck at dawn! I say early but it was actually a relative "lie in" for us as we all slept through until 5:30am - only our 2nd full night's sleep in 8 days, since we left Costa Rica - much needed, and hoping this is the turning point on the jet lag front... The weather was good to us again and we got to see the beautiful sunrise over Halong Bay. After breakfast we went to visit "Surprising Cave", the biggest cave in Halong Bay. It was pretty impressive, with 3 large chambers, the last of which was vast. It had some amazing stalagmites and stalactites too, in allsorts of weird and wonderful shapes. After the cave we cruised further out into the bay and into neighbouring Lan Ha Bay. Along the way we saw some floating houses and lots of floating fish and oyster farms, where people live and work on the water. Our home for the afternoon and night was a lovely beach bungalow room on the small island of Nam Cat - see penultimate photo. We spent the afternoon enjoying the view, swimming in the sea and walking/swimming across to the tiny beach on the island opposite (see last photo) - Solana was particularly excited to be able to swim to a different island (though I have to admit that all 3 of us shared the excitement of that little achievement, if we're honest!). Solana actually managed to stay awake until dinner time and to eat some dinner - the first time I think she's managed both of those things since we arrived in Vietnam - hopefully the first of many.... We met a new friend today - Barbara from Brazil, who is travelling through Thailand and Vietnam - we all enjoyed having somebody new to talk to and Solana in particular was happy to have a new friend! Then, as the party animals that we are, we were all asleep before 9pm...Les mer

  • Hanoi Ethnography Museum

    21. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We visited the Ethnography Museum in Hanoi before we left. It helped us to understand more about all the different groups of people who live in Vietnam and had some interesting displays, both indoors and outdoors. All of the different traditional types of houses, made from wood and bamboo, were the most fascinating and we all had fun climbing into these and exploring. There was also an "interesting" burial display, with graphic "fertility symbols" adorned all around it (see photo) - cue some "interesting" questions from Solana afterwards!!! Whilst at the museum, we also went to see another water puppet theatre show - this time an outdoor one. Thankfully Solana was more awake than the first time we tried to take her, on our 1st day in Hanoi, and this time there were no tears and she loved it. She's been talking about it and wanting to make a puppet ever since! As entertaining as the show itself was the fact that we were the only Western faces at the show - the rest of the outdoor theatre was full of Vietnamese nursery and school children. Solana was a BIG hit with the theatre & school staff afterwards and was much in demand for photos - from them, not us!!!Les mer

  • Last day in Hanoi

    21. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today was our last day in Hanoi. After visiting the museum in the morning, we spent the afternoon wandering the streets of the old quarter for the last time and buying a few supplies, ready for the overnight train journey. We've tried to capture here some of the common street scenes; when you look at them, imagine the noisiest city you've ever been to (no doubt Hanoi itself for those of you who've been there), then multiply it by about 3 and you're probably somewhere near a virtual visit! We were able to get all of the supplies we wanted in the supermarket, plus some chicken feet which we decided to pass on this occasion! We ended the afternoon with dinner at "Pho 10", the noodle shop we found on our first evening in Hanoi - it only does beef noodles but has about 8 different kinds of beef - simple but tasty.

    We've really enjoyed our time in and around Hanoi and would highly recommend it for a visit. It's crazy but fascinating. The climate is great too - temperatures in the early to mid-20s C when we were here, so warm enough for shorts and t-shirt but not hot, sticky or humid as the coastal areas of Costa Rica were. Next, we head South - back towards the heat and humidity...
    Les mer

  • Overnight train

    22. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Tonight we got the overnight train South from Hanoi. The train left Hanoi station at 7:30pm and took 13.5 hours to reach Hue just before 9am. The journey was fun and felt like a bit of an adventure in itself. We had 3 bunk beds in a cabin of 4 - 2 bottom bunks and a top. We loved seeing the world go by outside our window as we went along - city life in the evening and rural life in the morning. We liked the train toilets significantly less - but needs must.... A random Vietnamese man was in the other top bunk for part of the journey - his phone kept ringing during the night, so we were happy when he got off at 1:30am! Solana slept pretty well - from 8pm until 5am. We slept less well, between the ringing phone, waking up each time the train stopped and worrying that I might fall out of the top bunk! In the morning we borrowed the train guard's kettle and made cups of tea and noodle pots for breakfast. £81 for all 3 of us to travel by sleeper train approx. 400 miles in 13.5 hours - not quite Shinkansen speed or perfection but a fun way to travel, see some of the country and saved us a night's hotel accommodation too.Les mer

  • Hue - Perfume River

    22. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Once we'd recovered from the overnight train (mainly comprising a hot shower each), we went out for lunch - a very in-Vietnamese pizza! In our hotel we bumped into a Canadian couple that had been on our boat in Halong Bay (the man who was in the kayak with Laura in the Halong Bay photos and his wife) - they turned out to be staying in the same hotel as us, in the room opposite! We then headed down to the Song Huong (Perfume River). We managed to "charter" a dragon boat for a couple of hours for around £11, for a tour along the river. We got to see some of the countryside, including (domesticated) water buffalo lounging around in the river. We stopped to visit Thien Mu Pagoda and Buddhist temple - pretty impressive. On the way back, we went past a fishing village; we only saw one boat out fishing but it was interesting to see. We rounded off the day with some local noodle/rice dishes for dinner, then retired to our nice comfy beds for a (hopefully) better night sleep....Les mer

  • Hue - the Citadel

    23. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After breakfast today we got a cycle taxi (which Solana loves!) across the river to the old Citadel. Hue was once the capital of Vietnam and had it's heyday during the 1800s-mid-1900s during the reign of the Nguyen Emperors, who lived in the Imperial Enclosure of this citadel. Today, the citadel is a mixture of ruins (bombed in WW2 and in the Vietnam-American War) and beautifully restored palaces, halls and gateways. We all quite enjoyed exploring the site on foot - even Solana (who we had feared might get a bit bored). Solana tried her hand at taking a few photos with our camera for the first time - with results not too bad (the photo of me & Laura included here was taken by Solana!). Solana's favourite bit was feeding the koi carp fish in the palace moat - there were loads of them and the looked ravenous, clambering over one another to try to get to the food! On our way in to the citadel we saw a military training exercise; Solana tried to join in the marching - we feared she may be arrested but she emerged unharmed. We got another cyclo back into town, enjoyed a big lunch of local speciality dishes (plus calamari for Solana), then spent some time planning the next leg of our journey, helping Solana to make another "puppet" and enjoying the bath in our hotel room (the 1st bath we've had in a hotel room either here or in Costa Rica - it made Solana happy).Les mer

  • Vietnamese cooking class

    25. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We travelled to Hoi An yesterday by train and taxi; the journey went smoothly and we enjoyed travelling by train again. Today we did a cooking class in Hoi An. It started with a visit to the local food market to buy ingredients. We then went to the class with our teacher Vi Am. We did lots of chopping, crushing, rolling and cooking and managed to concoct four reasonably authentic looking Vietnamese dishes - fried spring rolls, beef pho noodle soup, Vietnamese pancake and chicken with lemongrass. Solana enjoyed joining in too. We then all enjoyed the fruits of our labours for lunch - and it was delicious (if we do say so ourselves!). A fun and tasty day was had by all.Les mer

  • Hoi An - by day

    25. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We have enjoyed wandering around the town of Hoi An. Part of the town is pedestrianised and provided a welcome relief from dodging all the cars and motorbikes and running the gauntlet of road crossings! We had a lovely hotel with a pool, where we paid £32 per night including breakfast and we were upgraded to a very big family room with a big bathroom & bathtub. Breakfast was great too, with plenty of both Western and Vietnamese options on offer - I'm enjoying eating pho noodles for breakfast! Unfortunately, they had no availability for tonight so we've had to move accommodation but luckily the hotel next door had space - it is not quite as nice but certainly good enough and even cheaper.

    It was raining the day we arrived - the first rain we've seen since we arrived in Vietnam, so we can't really complain. The rain seems to have cooled the temperature down too - it is around mid-20s now, and cloudy - actually more pleasant than we were expecting now we're further South. The waterfront here is lovely - very colourful, with lanterns everywhere, lovely architecture and pretty bridges. All in all, a nice place to just wander and soak up the atmosphere.
    Les mer

  • Hoi An - by night

    25. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The first night we went to a restaurant that our hotel recommended; it has no menu, just serves everyone the same dish - BBQ pork kebabs, with prawn spring rolls, Vietnamese pancake, salad, herbs and kimchi and you roll the things up in rice paper, dip in a tasty sauce and eat - delicious! We find that we're eating meat with more meals here than we do at home - but the amount of meat served with meals here is much less than at home - which, if you're going to eat meat, is probably the way it should be... As it is the new moon tomorrow, people don't eat meat for 2 days. There were also celebrations for the start of the first month after the lunar new year, with people burning incense and papers and placing fruit and flower offerings in front of their shops - interesting to see.

    Last night we spent the evening down by the waterfront and discovered that the town is even more colourful by night than by day, when all the lanterns are lit. We treated ourselves to a mojito cocktail and Solana also had a "cocktail" (aka watermelon juice!). The owners of the restaurant had a little girl a similar age to Solana and the 2 girls enjoyed playing together. Solana was enjoying having a little friend so much that we thought it only polite to stay at the bar longer than intended and avail ourselves of the extremely cheap draught beer (only 18p per glass)! Afterwards, we bought a paper lantern from a little old lady and floated it off down the river - Solana enjoyed watching it float off down the river. We then went to see the night market - lots of lantern and jewellery stalls, before heading back for a sound nights sleep.
    Les mer

  • An Bang beach

    26. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we went to the beach about 5km from Hoi An - An Bang beach (great name!). We had originally planned to spend a night or two staying at the beach but the weather is not great at the moment - cool, cloudy and showers, so we changed our plans. When we got to the beach today, it reinforced our decision - it was pretty windy and actually a bit chilly! The sea was also quite rough. Our swimming costumes did not come out of the bag but we did have a walk along the beach and a brief paddle in the sea. We also saw some of the caracol round fishing boats (think this is the ones you were talking about Wendy). The beach stretched as far as the eye could see in both directions - it is at least 30km long. We took the opportunity to pay a visit to one of the seafood restaurants for lunch whilst we were there. We had a delicious seafood meal including clams, tamarind prawns, crab and calamari. I also tried a Vietnamese white wine from Dalat - it was a bit ropey but at least I got to try it and the glass cost less than £2.

    We're spending this afternoon in our hotel room, sorting our stuff, catching up on the blog and photo sorting and planning the next part of our trip. We had intended to travel from here to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) but we have decided to give another big city a miss and instead we've just booked a flight South, down to Can Tho in the Mekong Delta. We're hoping that this will give us an opportunity to see some of more rural Vietnam, and also to travel into Cambodia by river rather than by road. Hoping we've made the right decision....
    Les mer

  • Mekong Delta - Can Tho

    27. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Today we made the 1,100km trip from Hoi An in the centre of Vietnam to Can Tho in the South by plane, taking only one hour. The same journey would have taken about 21 hours by road/rail, so it was a no-brainer. However, because we changed our plans and ended up booking the flight only yesterday, it has cost us more than 3 days budget in just one day today. It is lucky that we are surrounded by rivers, as I think we'll be fishing for our supper tomorrow! We arrived at our £21 per night hotel and were upgraded to a "penthouse" room, with a big balcony (including a mini fishpond - Solana enjoyed feeding them, see pic). We wandered down by the riverfront - the river is really wide and laden with boats of all shapes and sizes - interesting to see. There are not as many tourists here, so Solana was even more popular than usual - as you can see in the pic of her with a group of local schoolgirls, they whisked her away for cuddles and photos, much to her bemusement! On the riverfront we came across a statue of Ho Chi Minh - every town/city seems to have one but this was a particularly impressive specimen. We ate catfish for dinner at a riverfront restaurant - tasty, if a bit bony. Tomorrow we are going to see the local floating markets - a 5:30am start, so we're off to bed shortly...Les mer

  • Can Tho - Cai Rang floating market

    28. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    This morning we were up by 5am to visit the nearby floating markets. We were in a small, wobbly but adequate boat that could be propelled by motor or by rowing - you can see our boat in the sunrise photo here. On the way to the market, we stopped at a floating petrol station to fill up! We went first to Cai Rang floating market, the largest one in Vietnam. There we had a cup of tea, some noodle soup and fresh fruits, all bought from boat "stalls". Some of the selling boats at this market were quite big and each of them has a long bamboo pole at the front with some samples of the produce they were selling - so we saw the pineapple boat, turnip boat, tomato boat, onion boat, watermelon boat, mango boat and dried fish boat, amongst others. It was fascinating to see and quite colourful too. Worth getting up so early for!Les mer

  • Part 2 - Phong Dien Floating market

    28. februar 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    After Cai Rang market, we went further along the river and visited the smaller Phong Dien floating market. Most of the selling boats here were smaller and each boat tended to sell more of a range of items, rather than specialising in one thing only. It was good to see the contrast between the large and the small market too. We also then went into some of the smaller waterways and got to see a flavour of life living along the river. Unlike in Costa Rica, where the life of interest was other fauna, here it was mainly human life - the rivers here are the lifeblood of the area and many people still live along them, making a living from farming and fishing. We also visited a noodle factory, where we had a go at making rice noodles in the traditional way. All in all, a great day trip and so far we're glad we changed our plans to spend some time in the Mekong delta.Les mer

  • Last day in Vietnam

    1. mars 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Hope you all enjoyed Pancake Day yesterday. We're pleased to hear that much pancake eating went on in our honour (and absence!). Today was our last full day in Vietnam - we have decided to cross the border into Cambodia tomorrow, travelling from here in Chau Doc to Cambodia's capital city, Phnom Penh, by boat. We have all enjoyed Vietnam and will be leaving with some sadness, and a hope to return one day, as well as excitement (and a small amount of trepidation!) about continuing our adventure into another new country....

    This morning we got the bus from Can Tho to Chau Doc, still in the Mekong Delta area of Vietnam. The bus was quite nice, with air con and we had 4 seats between the 3 of us. It also included minibus transfer from the hotel to the bus station and from the bus station to our new hotel at the other end - all for 300,000 Dong (about £11) for all 3 of us. We arrived, checked in and grabbed lunch from a nearby bakery - some items that looked savoury but tasted sweet! The weather is even hotter here - mid-30s C and too hot in the middle of the day to do much. We went for a walk along the riverfront, enjoyed seeing more of life on the river and Solana enjoyed having some space to run in the riverside park and trying out the exercise equipment there. We saw a shop selling Siamese fighting fish - all in individual jars, with card between each, to stop them living up to their name. We then went to the market - a large one, with more unfathomable products than the other markets we've seen. It also had a whole section for dried fish products - Solana wasn't keen on this and held her nose the whole way round! Solana is becoming a minor celebrity here - everywhere we go, so many of the local people want to talk to her, touch her, cuddle her or even take a selfie photo with her; this has become even more common now we're a bit more off the usual tourist trail - she is bemused and doesn't really know what to make of it all but I think it makes for friendlier travelling for us. Inspired by Kirsty's cocktail suggestion, we then treated ourselves to a round of cocktails (pineapple juice "cocktail" for Solana) in the posh hotel in town, with a riverside view - they cost more than our dinner did afterwards but were greatly enjoyed. On the way back to our hotel we happened upon a shopping mall, with ice-cream and kids rides - Solana loved it, especially when we treated her to a couple of the rides, at about 5p each. We rounded off the day by starting our antimalarial tablets (generic Malarone for the pharmacists amongst you!); we weren't sure how Solana would manage, having never taken tablets before but we were very proud of her when she swallowed it down straightaway, without fuss. Let's hope this continues for the 3 weeks we need to take them. In case you're interested, we swallowed ours down with no fuss (and a big swig of beer) too!
    Les mer

  • Vietnam compared to Costa Rica

    1. mars 2017, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Having now travelled in Costa Rica and Vietnam in close succession has led us to consider the similarities and differences between the two. In case any of you are interested in these reflections, I have tried to capture them here.

    Vietnam is a much larger country than Costa Rica, with about 90 million people as opposed to 5 million. Thus there are more people and bigger cities and a LOT more traffic, especially motorbikes - crossing the road here feels like taking you life in your hands sometimes and made Costa Rican road crossing seem tame in comparison! The road quality in Vietnam seems a bit better than Costa Rica too, with more surfaced roads and MUCH better road signage (in Costa Rica you had to use SatNav or just guess and cross your fingers!). Vietnam has trains (which we loved) but there are none in Costa Rica. Pavements are pretty poor quality in both countries but it was even harder to walk in Vietnam due to the number of motorbikes parked on the pavements. I wouldn't fancy having to push a buggy or wheelchair in either country but in Vietnam it would be impossible without pushing it in the road. We are so pleased we brought a sling for Solana, rather than a buggy - thanks again to Libby for the idea and to Gemma & Joe for the sale. Healthcare, on the other hand, is MUCH better in Costa Rica; in fact it is such high quality that many Americans fly here to have treatment because it is much cheaper and similar quality to healthcare in the US. Education is free in Costa Rica but has to be paid for in Vietnam, meaning that not all children go to school. Sanitation is also better in Costa Rica - to the extent that you can actually drink the tap water there, whereas in Vietnam even the locals don't drink tap water. In both countries you have to throw toilet paper in the bin, rather than in the loo - we're used to doing it now and will no doubt continue to do it when we get to New Zealand where we don't need to! We have enjoyed the food much more in Vietnam than we did in Costa Rica (where there wasn't much variety). We weren't worried about what Solana might eat in Costa Rica (she likes rice, beans and egg - the staple diet!) yet she didn't eat that well there - yet we worried a bit about what she might eat in Vietnam and she has eaten better here - trying lots of new things and eating rice, beef, noodles and boiled eggs like they were going out of fashion! May it continue into Cambodia and Thailand (I fear it may not, when the food gets spicier). Vietnam also has better bread than Costa Rica - thanks to the legacy of French colonial rule.

    Vietnam is undoubtedly cheaper than Costa Rica - on average, we are spending just over half as much each day here than we did in Costa Rica. It is particularly nice being able to order anything we like from a menu, without worrying about cost; we know that will change again when we get to New Zealand... Vietnam definitely has better overall customer service and seems more attuned to what tourists might want or need. However, along with this comes more hard sell in some places and we have seen that more in Vietnam than in Costa Rica. There are more hotels in Vietnam involved in running/arranging (with commission) days tours and transport - this didn't really happen in Costa Rica; it makes travel life a bit easier, especially if you have only limited time in one place, but the hotels take a cut so it is a bit more expensive than organising things yourself. There also seems to be a few more scams in operation in Vietnam than we heard about in Costa Rica - so far, we have only been scammed by a taxi driver speeding up the meter but I think things like that happen quite a lot, until you get wise to them. Costa Rica won hands down on the wildlife front - but then it beats most, if not all, other countries in the world on that front. We have seen some wildlife in Vietnam but nowhere near the Costa Rica scale. Finally, Vietnam has MUCH better WiFi access. In Costa Rica most of our hotels had WiFi but the quality and speed were variable and it was difficult to keep up with this blog at times. Here every hotel has had WiFi and almost all have been fast and reliable; in fact, even the tiniest, most basic café or restaurant seems to have WiFi, with the access code sellotaped to the plastic tables.

    It will be interesting to cross the border into Cambodia tomorrow and see how that compares too. I hope we enjoy it as much as we have Vietnam. Meanwhile, now that March is here we hope that Spring is in the air for you and that you enjoy the daffodils, blossom, lambs and brightness that Spring brings. I'm thinking of my little cherry tree, that should be in blossom in our garden at home as I write.
    Les mer

  • By boat to Cambodia

    3. mars 2017, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Well - my previous post turned out NOT to be our last day in Vietnam...yesterday morning I woke up with D+V, so we postponed the boat until today. Laura and Solana had a lovely day yesterday, spending $5 to use the pool of the posh hotel in Chau Doc. I spent most of the day in bed but I'm happy to report that I'm feeling much better now.

    This morning we got up early and got cyclo taxis to the riverside dock. These cyclos were different in style from the ones we've seen elsewhere in Vietnam - and more precarious - but good fun nonetheless. We then made the 6 hour journey by speedboat up the Mekong River to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. Along the way we saw more of life by the river, although not as much as on some of the shorter boat trips we've done, as the Mekong river is so wide - rivalling the Amazon or, closer to home, the Humber at its estuary! We did get to see some of the large floating houses that have fish farms underneath them though (see 2nd photo here) - interesting to see. We stopped about an hour into the journey and disembarked to do the border formalities leaving Vietnam (1st photo with green sign), which consisted of sitting around on plastic chairs in a floating café for 15 minutes (whilst the boat staff got exit stamps in our passports), then putting our hand luggage through a scanner (a token gesture, as everyone's main luggage remained on the boat!), then getting back onto the boat. A few minutes further on we stopped again at the Cambodian border - 2nd photo with green sign (having seen quite a few houses in between - are those people Vietnamese or Cambodian? Who knows!). We all got our Cambodian visas and were back on our way again in half an hour or so - a pretty straightforward and painless border crossing.

    As we approached Phnom Penh, lots of large and tall building appeared across the horizon (see last photo here). From what we have seen of the city this afternoon, it definitely has a "big international city" feel about it - much more so than the other cities we've visited so far (even Hanoi). There also appears to be a more noticeable Thai influence here - particularly in some of the temples/pagodas. I guess that makes sense, as we edge our way ever closer to our final SE Asia destination of Thailand...
    Les mer

  • Phnom Penh

    4. mars 2017, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    We spent the day exploring Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. This morning we went to the Royal Palace, the official residence of the King. It is still the Royal residence, so many parts are off-limits and the parts that we could see were not well signed - but the buildings included palace, temples and stupas and all were very ornate. It even got a "wow" out of Solana when we first arrived! It was very busy there today, being a weekend it was busy with both Cambodian and international tourists. After the palace we found a kids play park - the first decent one we've found since Playa Hermosa in Cost Rica, over 6 weeks ago, so Solana was ecstatic! She somehow forgot that she doesn't like being out in the hot midday sun and happily played there until we dragged her away for lunch.

    This afternoon was a lot more sombre. We went to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (aka "S-21"), to learn more about the history of Cambodia. We weren't sure whether or not to go with Solana but, after reading up about the place, we decided to go and we took turns staying with her in the gardens, whilst the other went around the museum (but we decided against going out to the Killing Fields). This was a prison in which thousands of innocent people were detained, tortured and killed during the dark days of Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge regime during 1975-79 (i.e. in the lifetime of most of you who will read this blog....). As you might expect, it was a harrowing visit, with tissues required, but it is appropriate that it stands as a monument to those who lost their lives and to educate future generations in the hope of preventing such atrocity from occurring again.

    This evening we were hoping to take James & Lou's advice and head to the FCC for a sundowner but time ran away with us and, after a quick and refreshing dip in the hotel pool, we ended up in an odd local restaurant - where no English was spoken but managed to enlist the help of a 10-year-old boy to translate (son of one of the staff members!), our portions were small and served with no rice, yet there was a small kids play area. Tomorrow, we have a 7-hour bus journey to Siem Reap - not looking forward to the long journey on a bus but needs must....
    Les mer

  • Siem Reap & Angkor temples

    6. mars 2017, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Yesterday we made the 7 hour bus journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap - after not looking forward to it, the bus was actually OK and the journey was smooth. Best of all, the hotel waiting for us at the end of it (Mulberry Boutique Hotel, in case anyone wants to make a note) is amazing. Laura's many hours of searching paid off when she found an online special offer and we have a family suite here, with 2 bedrooms over 2 floors, plus 2 bathrooms and a sitting area, all for only £20 per night for 2 nights! It is normally $150 per night, so unsurprisingly we were unable to negotiate the same deal to stay for a 3rd night but they did offer us it for $60, so as it is so lovely we've decided to stay an extra night as a pre-birthday treat. It is by far the best room we've had on our trip so far (and almost certainly will remain so - given the expense of our next destinations!).

    Today we hired a tuk-tuk and driver to take us to see some of the temples. This morning we went to the Angkor Thom complex. We started with Bayon, the large temple you see in photos #3 & #4, with many very large faces carved into the stone. We then walked around as much of the rest of this massive temple complex as Solana, and the heat of the day (temp in mid-30s C and sunny - too hot for sightseeing in the middle of the day). It was amazing to think how they built the temples so tall and precisely, with no machinery to help (most of them were built in the 1100s) - something we've said again and again at ancient temple sites across the world. The rock carvings here were impressive too, with many including elephants and people carved into the rock faces, some repeated dozens of times over. After a well-earned ice lolly, we came back to the hotel for a dip in the pool and lunch, before heading out again this afternoon.
    Les mer

  • Angkor Wat

    6. mars 2017, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    And now for the big one - we visited Angkor Wat this afternoon. Apparently it is the largest place of worship in the world. It certainly was very impressive, even after seeing the temples at Angkor Thom this morning. We entered Angkor Wat over the stone bridge across the 180m wide moat that goes all the way around the temple complex. We were explaining to Solana that the moat was made to protect the temple and she concluded from that that anyone bad who tried to get over would be pushed into the water to be eaten by crocodiles! You then walk along a long pathway that leads to the main temple complex, with the iconic view of Angkor Wat in front of you along the way. Once inside, we spent a couple of hours exploring. It was pretty busy inside but it quietened down a lot towards 5pm. Solana met a couple of other little girls around her own age, the first we think was Japanese and the 2nd, pictured here, we're pretty sure was Cambodian; the two of them attracted quite a crowd, all wanting photos of the cute little girls! Solana is loving the idea of Buddha and today she was asking questions about the offerings people had made to the statues in the temples; we told her about offerings and she wanted to make an offering herself. After talking about the different types of offerings (many of them here were sweets - bearing a remarkable resemblance to Werther's Originals!), she offered some money; a monk then offered her a blessing of luck with holy water and tied a red cotton bracelet around her wrist. It was lovely to see her interaction with him. As it got later, the light got even better and we managed to get some photos of Angkor Wat together with its reflection in a lake - seen here with us spoiling the artistic view!

    As with many things, the photos don't really do it justice but it gives you a flavour of what we've seen anyway. All in all, it was very reminiscent of the days we spent in Central America 12 years ago, wandering around the Mayan and Aztec sites including Chichen Itza, Tikal and Copan - but here there are slightly fewer mosquitoes and definitely more tuk-tuks! It is also striking every time we see such ancient buildings, the similarities between different such sites in very different parts of the world, geographically distant and often built in different eras - e.g. the Mayan and Aztec temples of Central America, Machu Picchu in Peru, Angkor Wat, the ancient cities in Thailand, the pyramids in Egypt. It makes us wonder - did ancient civilisations have more contact with one another than we know, or did many different groups of people come up with similar ideas independently?.... We also saw a bit of wildlife around the temples today - including monkeys, lizards, myna birds, butterflies, frogs and parrots. Tomorrow we plan to visit some of the other temples in the area (to get our moneys worth from our $62 each tickets - they went up in price dramatically just last month, from only $40 per person!).
    Les mer