Goodbye again, Baltic Sea

After sleeping in and having breakfast, me and Aluna made a huge last trip around the sea, before saying my parents Goodbye for now, sitting back in my car, driving home.
After sleeping in and having breakfast, me and Aluna made a huge last trip around the sea, before saying my parents Goodbye for now, sitting back in my car, driving home.
Today, I slept way better than yesterday, waking up at 11am. I guess that's the result of around 19.000 footsteps. My parents arrived shortly afterwards, bringing us some breakfast rolls and blocking our bathroom. As if they didn't have one at the hotel...
After breakfast, my parents and I went back to the beach whilst my sister went back to bed. Yesterday's forest walk was too much fresh air, I suppose. As the Neujahrsgarten was already open, my Mom decided she wanted to try Glögg, the Swedish version of Glühwein with raisins and almonds inside. I shrugged and said, I'd share with her. It was a hot but sweet little drink that tasted quite alright and warmed up quite a bit. Then, Aluna and I should have started our stroll along the beach while Mom and Dad went back into the hotel. However, Luni wanted to go with Mom and followed her from the beach over the promenade up to the hotel. I had to catch and line her up, dragging her back to the beach. She was resistant until she met the first dog she could play with. Afterwards, Mom was forgotten and we could move along without her hesitance. We had another long walk around the beach and then back to Dad's flat, where we had our usual cleaning and a quick nap, as tonight would be a long night.
Waking up, as good as new, we made our way to my parents, to go have dinner at the Köstlich restaurant. It was packed, but luckily, my dad has reserved a table in advance. The waitress was cheerful as one could only dream of, and the food was quite alright. A Chinese luck cookie was on the table for each of us. Mine read "Gratefulness is like wine. Come on, drink up!" which I found quite fitting.
Later, we went back to the hotel and watched Dinner for One together, a beloved, funny tradition. Then we made our way up to the shut down restaurant "Über den Wolken" (translating to Over the Clouds). It's been closed for ages now as the customers lift to it (it's in the 33rd floor of the Maritim, 115m above sea level) was broken and the costs for fixing it in the millions. However, the employees lift was still running and as my dad is one of the most important ones at the Maritim, we sneaked up there.
The restaurant is a dream come true for Aluna as there is all carpet and lots of space to run. The old chairs, tables and lamps, all left in their last positions. The air felt eerie and cool. I loved it up here. We had an amazing view!
When the clock turned midnight, we "Cheers" -ed and viewed the hundreds of fire works going in the air. It was quite the experience! Czytaj więcej
After an awful night full of unnecessary thoughts, I woke up at 7am to get myself ready. I was going to pick up some used furniture for my new flat and had to drive to Lübeck and Bad Schwartau for it. Luckily, my sister was kind enough to come with me to help. We picked up my two Kallax shelves and some treats and a leash for Aluna as substitutes for my forgetfulness. Afterwards, we had a long walk with Aluna around the Riesebusch forest in Bad Schwartau. Muddy, wet and nearly frozen, we drive back to Travemünde where we warmed up our bodies again staying at my Dad's flat. After a proper breakfast, Aluna and I made our way to the beach. As it was her very first time at the sea, I was really looking forward to her reaction. I know that she loves playing in the sand at home, so being with her at the beach would be amazing. And she really loved it. As soon as she realized everything was sand, she sprinted into the distance and was super happy. Sniffing each and every shell, and meeting lots and lots of different dogs, I knew that she'd be very tired tonight. We walked and walked for at least 2hrs and she never even so much as touched the calm water to her right. She is a beach dog, not a water dog, that's for sure.
Finally, we finished our walk and met my parents at the Maritim hotel lobby. We took the lift up to the 13th floor with an amazing view over the Trave and I cleaned Aluna from all of the saltiness. I wanted to go to the Christmas Market, as there still was one in Travemünde, so I left Luni with my Mom and went on my own. There were little handcraft stands with wooden statues, pearly necklaces and witty writings. And there were Bratwurst and Glühwein, but what I wanted was Schmalzkuchen. Little pieces of dough, baked in fat and served with powdered sugar. Here in the North of Germany it's also called Mutzen. I love Mutzen! These were the best I've ever eaten because they were so freshly baked and still very soft. I ate the whole bunch on my way back to the hotel, and I have to admit... My tummy hurt after that. Well, they'll never be as good as that anymore. Back at the hotel, I made myself ready and my family and I went to The Pub at the foot of the Maritim Hotel. We ate a very late dinner whilst Aluna was fast asleep beneath our feet. And after dinner, I was glad that I could still roll my stuffed body up the hill to get back to Dad's flat. Czytaj więcej
After another day of work, my sister and I drove to Travemünde to stay at my dad's over New Year's Eve.
My mom and dad were on holidays, so they decided to see the fireworks of Travemünde for a change. So my dad booked my mom a hotel room at his work, the Maritim hotel, and stayed with her there. Therefore, my sister and I could stay at his flat. And as Aluna had never seen the ocean before, I took her with me as well.
We drove through heavy rain, but our mood was quite good, listening to our different kinds of music tastes. We arrived at 10pm and were completely done for the day, but obviously, something had to go wrong... I ha forgotten most of Alunas things at home. So I didn't have any treats, chewing sticks or toys with me, not even a leash. At least I had her food with me. Adrenaline was high, mood was low, but I couldn't do anything against it now. It would only be a few days anyway. And the most important things, I could still buy tomorrow. Well, what you don't have in mind, your wallet will have to give to you... Czytaj więcej
The night was horrible, I couldn't sleep, and I shat every ounce of water out of my body again, as soon as I had some in me. I was panicking, and Seb was, too as he didn't know what to do. As soon as the first prayers were audible on the streets, Seb made his way to Solofo to ask for the doctor again to see me, as well as go get the medicines he prescribed. I was just trying not to hyperventilate and die.
After an hour or so, the doc was there again, but this time, he seemed a bit less kind. I understood as much French in my diluted state, that he was thinking I'd be just hysterical. He still gave me another infusion. It helped a bit, but I still felt like shit. Seb was always on the phone with the HanseMerkur, asking what we should do. We wanted to travel today, needed to. But at the end of one 3hrs flight and one 12hrd flight, there wouldn't be home, but Paris. We wanted to stay there for another 3 days. I didn't even know how I'd manage the 3hrs flight to Mauritius, let alone a romantic get away in France. I just wanted to get home, get somewhere safer than Madagascar for heaven's sake.
So, after cramming at least five different types of drugs into my mouth, we decided to leave for the airport. It was horrifying. I couldn't even walk properly as I felt so dizzy. My heart was working ovezr time and I was so hot and cold all the time. We sat in the little bus and drove through Tana. I tried to stay conscious and was rewarded with views of the military all around town. They had so many weapons with them. It would have been terrifying seeing this on a normal day. But when you feel weak as fuck and you'd wish yourself to get into a hospital, the last thing you want to see is soldiers pointing guns at you. Okay they weren't pointing at our bus, but it still felt extremely terrifying.
When we arrived at the airport, a wheelchair waited for me. We had spoken to Christian, my boss, and he has managed to organize a wheelchair service for my flights. I was on the brink of crying. I was so relieved that I didn't need to walk. We checked in rather quickly due to the wheelchair service, and past the security check in no time. Then we just had to wait. Kate was waiting with us, too. She gave me some muesli bars, and talked me into drinking more of the damned electrolyte water. I didn't throw up this time, lucky me. I could barely manage to breathe evenly and not panic.
After a while, it was time to say our final goodbyes and board the plane. It's crazy how much everyone looks after you, the moment you're in a wheelchair. We could sit down first, but I actually hated that. More time for me on a stupid plane. I hate planes. I hate flying. I feel without any control. Now, half dying, I felt even worse. But I so badly wanted to get out of this shitty country. And the only way was via plane. Alright then. I braced myself and for the next three hours, my main goal was even breathing. Nothing more, nothing less.
I survived.
And then we landed in Mauritius and I started crying for relief. Safe. Or at least - safer.
Again, we were welcomed by the wheelchair service and got to the gate in no time. I must have looked like death itself, as Seb insisted for me to lay down. I did. I couldn't do anything else. I must have fallen into a feverish sleep, as next thing I know, he came back with some medical staff from the airport. A woman and a man. They both looked at me, checked my vitals. The man asked me to stand up and walk a few steps. I was asking myself, why on Earth I should do that, when I could barely exist sitting. But I stood up, I walked a few meters and sat down as soon as possible. I heard a mumbling. A "she can walk, so she will be able to fly". I've never heard anything more stupid. Seb looked at me, trying to get an answer from me. Can I fly, he asked, multiple times. I refused to answer. I was panicking. I didn't think I could fly, but I didn't want to stay here either. Seb got frustrated - we followed the medical staff into their treatment rooms. We asked for a representative of the Mauritius Airlines as we wanted to ask for a Business class seat for me. The HanseMerkur couldn't rebook me on it but would pay for it if it became available. That wasn't the way I had planned on getting myself a Business class for the first time, but I'd take anything to lay down during the flight. The representative came 15min before boarding. I had gotten yet another infusion in the meantime and Seb has been on the phone with the insurance all the time, discussing what would be best. Honestly, I don't know what would have happened to me, if he hadn't been there, organising everything.
In the end, there was no Business Class seat available for me and Seb and the insurance decided that it would be best for us to stay in Mauritius and get into a clinic to treat me properly.
So, we checked out, immigrated into Mauritius again, got our bags and into a taxi. The ride took about an hour as the clinic was in the North of the island. I had time to think at last. The people on the plane must have been furious about the delay, not knowing that it was because a passenger's luggage had to get out because she was on the brink of death. I would have been for sure. It would mean more time in a stupid plane. The medical staff haven't thought my condition to be so critical, they thought I was hysterical as well. I felt betrayed. How dare they say something like that? Fucking sexists.
We finally arrived at the clinic, it was well past midnight, and there weren't many people around. A woman greeted us, she'd be my doctor. As she looked at me, a worried expression dawned on her face. Then she said "It was the right choice not to get on that plane. You look like a ghost. You need proper treatment." And I felt like crying. Finally, someone who understood me, didn't question me, just wanted to care about me.
She checked my vitals, asked several questions and finally led us to our room. Seb could stay with me, luckily. I was put on a constant infusion, but it was difficult, as my veins have been used too many times in the last couple of days. I had to have it on my left arm now. It didn't matter. She has told me that when a body is so dehydrated, no amount of water I'd drink would be sufficient. Only 30% of that would stay in the body, and this only if I didn't shit it out. With an infusion, we'd increase that to 80%.
I slept for a few hours. I woke up whenever someone came in to check on me and change the infusion. In the early morning, I was wheelchaired to examine my stomach. They did an ultrasound, asked more questions. I had to give them samples of my pee and poo. The results would take a few days, but they'd tell me if they'd find something bad inside my gut. I was constantly thinking about the client we had that went to Madagascar in perfect shape and returned with deadly bacteria in her intestines. Another friend of her traveling group had already died from it as there hasn't been sufficient treatment in Madagascar for it. At least, we were in Mauritius now and I hoped that we'd be back in Germany asap.
Seb continued his many calls with the insurance. In the afternoon, a new doctor, again a man who seemed to think I'd be overreacting, asked when we'd leave. I was so confused. They thought we'd just go back to our hotel in Mauritius, they hardly understood that we came straight from Madagascar to their clinic. They wanted to talk to the insurance and we provided them with the details. Apparently, there was miscommunication, they thought they wouldn't get paid by the insurance. Ffs, I was sick! I hardly had the mind to do small talk, how would I be able to discuss with them legal terms and what not? I was so glad Seb was there, managing everything. He didn't look good either. He was constantly worrying about me and how we'd manage to get home. Around 5pm, finally, the insurance called. We'd go on the plane tomorrow morning, straight to Frankfurt with Condor. I wanted to sob. Home. It was near. I just had to endure one more flight and a train ride home. Then I could cuddle with Aluna again.
I tried to sleep and got some much needed rest. My arm hurt. It had swollen considerably from the infusion and the water that most likely was collecting there.
The next morning, we woke up early, got a lunch pack and were picked up by the same taxi driver from two nights earlier. We had asked him whether we could contact him again for the ride back to the airport once the decision was made. Another wheelchair welcomed me at the airport and I realized how fond I've grown to be towards them. I would be flying Premium Economy, but Seb had a normal seat. I didn't want to endure this awfully long flight on my own, so he asked at the check-in whether there were any seats left in Premium Economy. Luck was on our side, and he paid a mere 175€ for the upgrade. Not a lot for a 12hrs flight, tbh. On the plane, I started shaking. I felt better but what if my state worsened during the flight? There was no way out. I was panicking. Seb tried to calm me down. My arm hurt and I tried to solely focus on that. Rather hurt than panicked.
The flight felt endless. I couldn't really sleep (I never could), and I was constantly thinking that I couldn't die now. I might have been hysterical then. My condition was stable, I wouldn't die, but the feeling of weakness sat deeply in my bones and I have actually never felt that awful in my life. I would survive that. I would love, and see Aluna again soon. That was my motivation, that kept me sane.
Finally, we landed. I have never ever in my life been more grateful to call Germany my home. Here, it was safe. Here, I could recover.
My last wheelchair arrived, brought us to the baggage claim and through customs. The way to the train station, we had to figure out by ourselves. The train ride home was calm and quiet until the end, when Seb finally snapped. He hasn't slept much the last couple of days either. So, I got his frustration, but still.
When we finally were home and I had Aluna in my arms again, I cried of relief and joy.
This horror trip will most definitely haunt me forever. I will never ever think of drinking enough water the same. I'll be way more careful from now on. Czytaj więcej
Our wake up call was rather early today, as our flight back to Tana was starting at 7.30am.
I was feeling awful again, as I not only got my period, but also very bad diarrhea. Yesterday, I had it too, but it only caught up with me today. So, when we stood in line for the check-in, I had to sit down and rest, focus on breathing and not hyperventilate.
Very fortunate for me, the flight was on time and we were back in Tana in no time. Unfortunately, our rooms at the Belvedere hotel weren't ready yet, so the group decided on going to the Handcrafts Market in town. The pills I took gave me enough strength to pass the next hour of constant "Please have a look", "Good price, good price" and "I made it myself" (spoiler: they never did). Finally, it was over and we drove back to the hotel where we checked in for one last night in Madagascar. We had only planned for one last dinner together with the group at 6.30pm, so the day was pretty much free for our use. Bad thing that I had to use it mostly for laying in bed feeling awful, only leaving it for the toilet to let out all the water that I so desperately tried to put into my body. I was drinking up electrolytes as crazy, but my body revolted against it more and more until I had to puke instantly after drinking them. Afterwards, I just stuck to normal water.
When time had come for dinner, I felt like shit, however, I wanted to see my fellow comrades one more time and just share all the new memories that we made. So I clenched myself onto Sebs arm and dragged my body to the restaurant. But my head was so dizzy and I felt so weak that I quickly decided to go back into the hotel again. Especially after hearing that there would be a curfew because of the presidential election the next day, I wanted to be back in our room as quickly as possible. We asked Solofo to call the doctor to see me in the hotel and said Goodbye to everyone. It was rather heartbreaking, but I needed to lay down again. Seb got me back to the hotel safely and I tried not to hyperventilate for the next two hours until the doctor and Solofo finally arrived.
As the doctor could only speak two words in English, we needed Solofo for translation. You'd think that such well educated people like doctors would be able to speak something else than French, but you'd be wrong.
After testing my blood pressure, breathing and tongue stretching abilities, he put me on an infusion. "You're dehydrated, you've lost way too much water, your body is weak", Solofo translated for me. Well, I knew that much... Whilst I was on the infusion, the doctor perscriped me about ten kinds of drugs to get in the morning. Some others, he gave me right away. After a while the infusion finally kicked and I didn't feel like Death was waiting behind the door anymore. However, I still needed lots of rest. So Seb paid the doctor (changing some more money as we hadn't had enough), and they all took off. How would I be able to manage the 12 hrs flight tomorrow? I tried not to stress about that tonight anymore and fell into a very rough sleep. Czytaj więcej
This morning I woke up feeling better than yesterday, which made me very glad. Yesterday, Seb has come up with a plan together with Bernie and Roger to become Rickshaw drivers. Roger has already put a toe in the waters to test it when we were waiting for Kates lost luggage to arrive in Tulear the other day. He had paid a Rickshaw driver to let him try it and had been very much surprised by the fact that it is rather diffix6to steer these machines. But he was eager to evolve his driving abilities and Seb has agreed to jump on this waggon, too. Bernie just wanted to play voyeur and cameraman.
They've planned to meet at 11am which bothered me as it was 30 degrees at 9am already and the Heat wouldn't do them well driving Rickshaws. But now it was too late and I decided to go with them. We made our way along the beach of Ifaty and after only 20m I felt how my heart was racing, the sweat was running and my head spinning. I'm just not made for the heat and especially not around here it seemed. But I bit my tongue until we finally arrived in the village nearby, sat down and gulped down some drinks. When I didn't feel so dizzy anymore, we went on to find some lucky Rickshaw drivers who'd be paid today for getting a ride instead of giving them one. Seb explained his wish, the guy didn't seem too thrilled but the money changed his mind quickly. However, the steering of the Rickshaw seemed to be way harder being on the main road with other vehicles passing, which made the owner of the Rickshaw change his mind yet again. After mere seconds, Seb was degraded to a normal passenger again and he drove into the distance toward our planned lunch location. As a Roger has already stopped another Rickshaw driver for his improvement, he drove off as well. Bernie and I decided to walk on our own feet and met the guys soon after. There, Seb got another chance on getting the gist of a Rickshaw Driver, as it was a small road where not many people or cars were around. His second try was better, though the Rickshaw owner seemed rather glad when he got his money and could vanish into the distance. Obviously, the video had to be rewatched multiple times during our wait for lunch at Chez Freddie. With the food, a cat arrived that was as thin as paper and as hungry as ever. I usually don't like cats too much, but I sympathised with it today, so I gave it a bit of my food. The dessert was mine though. Bad enough I had to share it with Seb.
After lunch, we made our way back to the hotel, going over the beach. This time, two boys glued themselves onto our sides and tried to persuade us in giving them something. As we learned at the very first day, you shouldn't give kids anything, so I just repeated myself over and over again, saying that he should go to school. When he finally showed my something written on his arm and him gesturing a pen, it clicked. He wanted a pen, something to write with. Sebs new friend was the same, so we decided to get them something to write and in that regard some new clothes as well. We made them wait at the beach whilst getting a pencil from the reception (we only had one pen and still needed it for any eventualities flying back) and two t-shirts from our bungalow. Meeting them back at the beach, they were a bit disappointed about the pencil, I guess because they can't wrote on their skin with it. These poor kids don't even have paper for God's sake. The older boy was very happy about my orange Nike shirt, however the younger one was quite upset about Sebs Schalke t-shirt until he understood what Seb tried to explain to him. Obviously, right now he won't fit into that shirt (as he was only like 6), but he'd grow into it soon enough. Another sign that these people don't really think long-term but only for the here and now. But he got it eventually. For our gifts, they gifted us two of their necklaces as well, so we kind of exchanged things rather than just giving them. They were happy about the stuff, we were happy about making just the tiniest of positive impact and so we could part ways.
The rest of the day was just relaxing at the pool, playing cards with Mike and later go to a restaurant with the group. On the way there, a horrible sight struck us: A dead dog body, already half eaten. Luckily, Seb managed to get away with me before I could start to try reanimation on it. Czytaj więcej
Last night has been horrible, as I was sick all the time. I was feeling so weak, I was laying in bed until 2pm, just eating one slice of plain bread. The rest of the day, I was sitting around the bar, trying to drink as much water as possible, which only resulted in me rushing to the toilet every other minute.
When time for dinner arrived, I could only eat very little, as I felt sick again. And, lucky me, it seemed as if my period would just start to arrive.
So, that has been a great day. But you can enjoy some amazing photographs that Tracy took with her camera that I couldn't put into a post yet. Curtains up for the breathtaking wildlife of Madagascar. Czytaj więcej
Our last long drive was waiting for us when we left the lodge this morning. I said Goobye to my friend Grey and hopped into the bus last minute. It would be yet another 7hrs of great bumpy roads for us. The landscape lost its trees by the minute and left nothing else but dry grass and stones. The surroundings changed from poor to poorer, the little huts from the villagers getting smaller and smaller, their faces grumpy and mistrusting.
We had a quick stop at the biggest baobab in this region which is around 300 years old. Comparing its size and the size of the 300 year-old Elephant foot we saw yesterday, that was huge. We also stopped at some maybe fossils for Seb and Mike to take a look at, but they weren't sure and we moved on. It got hotter and hotter until we arrived in Tulear for our lunch break. When I sat down at the table, I felt very bad and it got worse by the second. Seb gave me some of my beloved electrolytes to drink, but my body was already kind of zoning out. I just tried to not faint, sit still, drink lots of water. I think, I got a heat stroke just then. Luckily, it was only another hour to go, but this hour took all of my strength. Finally, we arrived at the Bamboo Club in Ifaty, our home for the next three nights. Finally, we'd get some rest after this stressful round-trip. Czytaj więcej
This morning we woke up early again, to start our tour around the Isalo National Park. It's 25km wide and 180km long, which makes it the second biggest National Park in Madagascar. It has a variety of endemic plants and Insects that can only be found in the park. We left the lodge at 7am and it was already quite warm with around 25°C. Solofo told us, it would get around 35-40°C today. Not very good news for me...
Our first challenge was the river that we had to cross with our bus. After Ninny, our driver, took a quick glance at it, he said that he can do it, and he just drove into the river. Solofo said that our weight actually helps steer the bus, as he can touch the ground with us. That's the first time, my weight actually helped someone, so I'll take it.
We arrived at the bottom of the mountain range and were introduced to our guides. We then had to decide who wants to be in the fast group (those wouldn't get so many explanations and rather walk quickly to the stops) and who wants to join the slower group. As I know my walking abilities, Seb and I decided to join the second one. We started walking and it was clear immediately, that it would be a very tough walk, because of the heat. I enjoyed the explanations of the plants and little animals around, but I was always looking for the next shade to hide under. We learned that the Malagasy people around Isalo bury their dead with some black and white clothes and put a cloth around the. They then put them in a little cave at the lower part of the Isalo mountains and leave them there for around 2 years. After these 2 years, they get the dead people's bones out of the cave again, celebrate with them for a week and put them back up in a very high cave in the mountains so that they can become ancestors. Babys under 6 months won't be exhumed, nor would boys who haven't been circumsized yet (which usually happens between 2-5 years old, in a very brutal, old fashioned way). Women who didn't give birth during their life would be buried somewhere else as they weren't "worthy". As you can see... These believes and traditions are very much set into their culture, they still live it and they still believe in this bullsh*t. No wonder the country gets nowhere... I'm sorry to be so judgy about it, but everything regarding religion and God makes me want to scream.
We moved on, saw some cool animals and local plants and finally arrived at the first natural pool. It was a beautiful oasis that had nearly crystal clear water and was just the right way to cool us down after all the sunny heat. We enjoyed about half and hour, until we went on for the second part of the first 7km to arrive at the campsite where we'd have lunch. This part was even harder, as it must have been way over 30 degrees by now and there was literally no shade anymore. But at least we had 400 steps to go down. Yippie!
But we finally made it and arrived at the campsite. I was so done for the day. But there were another 5km to go to get to the black and blue pools behind the canyon. I honestly couldn't care less about it, and as Seb couldn't either, we decided to just get back to the lodge after lunch.
The fast group came back from the black and blue pools about 10min after we arrived from the first part of the 12km hike. So they were quick!
They told us it was quite an enjoyable walk, mostly in the shade but you'd have to go up and down lots of steps in the narrow canyon. As my knees hurt already, I just called it a day, enjoyed my lunch and the walk back to the bus.
Back at the lodge, we chilled a bit in our bungalow, cuddled with Grey and booked ourselves a massage.
It was only 12€ p.p. for 45min, so we said "What the heck". However, at least for me, it was horrible. My masseur was so rough and was putting so much pressure especially on my joints that I nearly cried. And I couldn't really tell her to do it differently, as she couldn't speak English. So, I endured the pain and was just very happy when it was over. Looking to my right, I saw a totally relaxed Seb sitting next to me. Well, at least someone was enjoying it.
Afterwards, I was just in pain and tried to move as little as possible. That I can do.
But we had the possibility to look at a very well-preserved fossil that Jacob had found in the many clay stones around. Seb and Mike were extremely happy about it, so I was happy as well. At least a good end to a stressful day. Czytaj więcej