• Misadventures Of Wanda
paź – lis 2022

Our Spanish Road Trip

Follow along as we head down through France to Spain looking for hiking and biking trails to explore. There’s lots on the bucket list from castles to caves, will we find our ultimate adventure playground in Spain 🇪🇸 Czytaj więcej
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    7 października 2022

    A full day of tarmac

    7 października 2022, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We set off this morning from Ellie’s mum and dads place, also known as the big house, at 1;30am.
    Neither of us had gotten much sleep, as yesterday afternoon Ben had been in a car accident and written his car off and even though he wasn’t hurt we both felt we should have been there to comfort him.
    The trip to Folkestone was relatively easy with no hold ups at that time of the morning and we arrived shortly after 3:30am. We got put on an earlier train and by 5:50am uk time we had hit the french roads, in the dark, which was mildly terrifying.
    By 11am french time we were both shattered and stopped in a car park in the quaint french village of Le Pucheuil for a couple of toasted sandwiches and some well needed rest. We both fell asleep for 2 hours.
    After a coffee we decided we didn’t really want to stay in the car park as even though we were tired we still needed to do something so we found some woods on park4night and headed for them to park up for the rest of the day and night.
    Foret Domaniale d’eawy was our chosen camp and the location was pretty amazing. Based deep in a forest on a single track with lots of walks.
    The first thing we did after parking up was lock all the doors, close the curtains and go for a walk.
    This was meant to be a gentle stretch of our legs and some fresh air after driving since 1:30am almost non stop and covering 300 miles but it turned into some what of a major hike.
    We set off from Wanda down a gravel track running through the Centre of the forest, spurs of dirt tracks spidered off left and right, but we stuck to the gravel, grateful to have fresh air in our lungs under a blue, unclouded sky. And the fact that we could atlast move our legs.
    A couple of miles in, and we came to an information sign, depicting a 5km walk from it running past an old chapel, through the nearby village and past the local cider museum.
    We set off having no intention of completing the hike but looking forward to seeing the chapel and investigating.
    We headed down a steep incline of probably some 25% gradient and within 5 minutes we came across the tiny chapel that had been erected to preserve the gravesite and headstone of a lady called Mary. We couldn’t tell much more from the signpost and information board.
    This is the point that we should have turned back but in our true fashion we headed off further into the woods, up and down hills and after another 30 minutes we decided to turn around and head back.
    Now the only problem is we’re really tired and don’t fancy the 25% gradient climb back upto the path we originated from so we took a detour down another track hoping it would lead back to our first trail. Another 30 minutes went by and eventually we came to another track that led back the way we came, but it was all uphill. Not quite as steep at a 6% gradient but it went on for over a mile and by the time we came back to the signpost pointing out the chapel trail, we were completely spent, and we still had to get back to Wanda.
    Almost 2 hours later and a grand hike of 10km we were back at Wanda and extremely grateful we had food, drinks and our bed with us. It was now 5:30pm and we were exhausted after a very long day. It was time for some dinner, Netflix and an early bed.
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  • Hiking trails and biking trails

    8 października 2022, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This morning we woke up at 7:30 feeling rejuvenated after our long day yesterday. It rained most of the night but it didn’t bother us as we were to tired to care.
    After a light breakfast we hit the road at 8:30am, as the hunters were arriving with there hounds and horses. Hunting season is a big thing in France and Spain we noticed on our last visit.
    We did our first shop in Lidl on the way to Orleans to get enough food to last us until Monday as everything still closes on Sundays in France unless you are in a tourist area.
    We managed to fill up with diesel around the corner from Lidl and everyone was filling Jerry Cans, this is when we found out the fuel refineries in France are on strike and getting fuel in northern France is becoming a problem, luckily we managed to get a full tank and we should be ok now until we hit the south west area.
    We found a beautiful car park surrounded by trees on Park4night in the tiny village of Marcilly-en-Villete and headed for that, it was just the other side of Orleans and we arrived at 3pm.
    In the car park there was lots of signs pointing towards trails for walking, biking and even horse riding. They also had QR Codes on the maps so you can download a route and have it on your phone.
    Russ did this almost straight away for the longest bike trail and uploaded it to his biking app then he got changed and went off for nearly 2 hours down gravel tracks and through the woods. Ellie chose to go in a hike instead around the nearby river, over bridges and then back to Wanda.
    This really is a beautiful little village and they are currently holding a medieval festival, and tonight we should have fireworks in the nearby park, but we’re not sure if we’ll still be awake for those.
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  • Bassin D’Orage De La Vallèe Du Bèdat

    9 października 2022, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Last night, at 10pm the distant sound of drumming started and it got louder and closer. We looked out the window laying on the bed and it looked like the whole town had come through the car park following a procession of drummers. Hundreds and hundreds of people marched and chanted through the car park, down a path and then after some announcement of a loud speaker system the music and fireworks started. Ellie and I quickly got dressed and ran outside in our pyjamas and coats and stood in the car park watching a huge fireworks display that lasted a good 20 minutes.
    This morning, when we woke up at 7am, it was a chilly 9°c in Wanda and just 3°c outside. It was so cold we had to light the fire. By 8:30am we were ready to roll and stopped on the way out to empty the toilet,grey water and refill the fresh water.
    The town was holding the second of it’s festivals today and in France they start early so at 8am the roads were closed, stalls came out and tents had been erected.
    Fortunately we found someone that spoke English and he in turn found someone that spoke French who jumped in Wanda to give us directions.
    He guided us through the barriers and to the top of the high street and then proceeded to give us further directions to our destination which was 170 miles all in french. We didn’t understand a word except for the last bit when he said he was very glad that we had decided to stay in his village and thank you for visiting France.
    We felt abit overwhelmed with emotion at that point. Sometimes we’re just not sure if we really are welcome when we turn up in the places.
    This was one of the nicest villages with the most welcoming people we have stayed in.
    We pushed on, stopping at a nice quiet motorway airè for a late breakfast at 11am and then stopping to top the diesel off when we passed an intermarchè as it was cheap, and getting fuel is becoming a problem because of the refinery strikes. The queue’s are bonkers at the fuel stations.
    At 2:30pm we finally arrived at our camp spot and it looked beautiful. We’re parked right next to a lake on a big gravel track and there are trails everywhere with hikers and bikers using them. Ellie had a quick nap while I got changed into my biking gear. Then I downloaded a route. Ellie decided she would go for a walk which left me to go biking.
    The route I downloaded took me through the National Parks of a volcano and it was a 635m climb at 12% on loose gravel then a 15% decent on granite blocks. It was the most technical biking I’d ever done and at one point I did nearly turn back because I didn’t think I’d be back before dark but fortunately I continued and at the end I had a real sense of achievement.
    I arrived back at Wanda at 6:30pm and luckily for me Ellie had made a great dinner of Chinese chicken and noodles, it was well needed. Then we both had our first Wanda showers before settling in for the night and getting in bed at 9:30pm.
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  • Bassin D’Orage to Le Lac de Jourres

    10 października 2022, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After our hike and bike yesterday we slept in this morning until 7:45am. That’s pretty late for us.
    We had nowhere to be except south today so we plotted the Sat Nav and started driving. It should have been 350 miles in total so today was going to be a long day in the saddle.
    Around 11am we stopped at a lovely little Airè next to the Viaduct De Garabit. This is a huge Iron Viaduct made by Eiffel and something that has been in my camera list for ages so I was glad to tick that off. This was also where we had a late breakfast of Wanda toasties. We needed another airè about an hour later for fresh water and fuel and found that it had ancient stone shepherds huts and a Chàteau a 30 minute walk away.
    We spent quite some time looking around the huts and taking photos before hitting the motorways again.
    We passed some amazing sights on the route, huge Chàteau’s, Monasteries, we drove right through the centre of Millau and passed the Millau Viaduct, onwards we drove through Templar country and passing through Beziers and this was when we both started getting tired of the drive.
    At roadworks we realised that we were about 60 miles from Carcassonne and 90 miles from our camp spot so we quickly plotted a route for the medieval town and kept moving. Meanwhile Ellie kept looking for a closer park up because it was now a challenge of how many nights free camping could we do without having to recharge the batteries.
    10 minutes later she found a nice little spot next to a lake. The reviews on park4night were good so she shouted of the co-ordinates as I drove and we re-routed Wanda to a small village called Homps.
    As we approached, TomTom tried to turn us right where we weren’t allowed so we went up to the next right and took that. This bought us into the town and it got tighter and tighter and directly ahead of us it was no entry. We took a left to the river where it was breathing room only and had to turn around and take another left into a really tight alley. TomTom kept telling us to turn around but we could see the waypoint on the maps and continued down the alley hoping it would bring us to a bigger road. As we got closer to the end we saw a bridge and turned onto it.
    Now we were on the right side of the river and TomTom re-routed itself and started playing the game again. Another left turn and we were running down the side of the river, then we turned right down a gravel track for about 3/4 mile and just as we thought we had come to a point where we would have to turn around we saw the car park where we hoped to spend the night.
    We parked up next to 2 other motorhomers, they looked like they were here to stay as they have there bikes and deck chairs out. Finally after 300 miles of driving we could stop.
    It was still so warm at 4pm when we stopped we went for a swim in the lake and it wasn’t as cold as we thought it would, and Ellie even washed her hair.
    Then it was back to Wanda to have dinner and watch the sunset through the windscreen from the seats in the back.
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  • Cycling the Canal Du Midi

    11 października 2022, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We had a great nights sleep again and it was a bonus that it was once again free. We decided yesterday that today was going to be a no rush day. We need to just slow things down and start enjoying the trip. Not that we haven’t enjoyed any of it so far but we do have a tendency to push ourselves forward all the time. But not today.
    We woke up around 7am, had coffees and just lounged in our pyjamas until the sun was up at 8:30, and then, once the weather looked like it was going to be good we decided we would stay out for the day and go for a bike ride along the Canal.
    Just after 9:30am we set off, out of the car park and down the gravel track. Ellie isn’t a confident rider so rather than go along the road to get to the Canal I had found a gravel road that took us away from camp, over a bridge and then back along the other side of the river joining the Canal path at the town of Homps.
    We peddled along at a leisurely pace taking in the sights of the lochs, the over hanging trees and the few french houses dotted along the other side of the river.
    It was great to see all the Canal boats and the Canal itself must be 20 meters wide, it really does put some of the English canals to shame.
    The first town we came to was Argens-Minervois about 8km in and it was a beautiful walled medieval town built on a hill. This also had it’s own set of Loch gates and an ancient bridge.
    From there we had to travel along 500m of road and rejoin the newly built canal path past the town of Roubia, and then Paraza following a bend in the canal that eventually brought us to the medieval town of Ventenac en Minervois where there was a huge Chàteau. We continued along the path all the way to the town Somail, which was an ancient port town and still has a lot of the old buildings and architecture from the period. We stopped here in a nice restaurant called the aubauge for lunch as it was just after midday and we both got a pizza. I devoured mine as I hadn’t had breakfast and Ellie couldn’t eat all of hers and it seemed to posh to ask for a doggy bag to bring back. France is an unbelievable place for cyclists, and these little villages we have visited have really proven that. They seem to have an art for getting the bikes away from traffic and where there are no routes they will make one, the whole of the cycle path we have ridden today was mud until recently and now the whole track has been plained and levelled and either tarmac or gravel has been placed to make one huge cycle and walking route running over 50km almost continuously.
    At 1pm we set off on the return journey only this time we came half way back on the opposite side of the canal all the way to Ventenac Du Minervois where we crossed over the medieval bridge and back along the cycle way.
    By the time we got back to Wanda at 3pm we had ridden 50km and the sun was out and we were both cooking up, so we re-hitched the bikes back to Wanda and then went for a swim in the lake. After a quick dip we checked our newly fitted battery meter for how much power the solar panels have brought in, and they have topped the batteries back up to full, so we are well pleased with that investment as it has enabled us more freedom with needing to look for an electric hook up, and not have the worry of how much juice is left in the batteries.
    The day had gone by relatively quickly and although we had ridden along way we both felt like it had actually been quite a relaxed day.
    Neither of us needed dinner in the evening after our pizzas so we settled on light snacks before settling down for the evening.
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  • Les Orgues d’ille & Castell de Rodès

    12 października 2022, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This morning we were up bright and early at 7am. We knew we had just 70 miles left to go to reach our first official destination of this trip and were itching to get going. By 8am we were both dressed and had Wanda packed up and ready to move but we decided to wait until just gone 9am to leave so we missed the rush hour traffic.
    It was an easy drive mostly on duel carriageways at 60mph to reach the small town of Ille-sur-tut and we stopped at the supermarket Super U to get snacks and fresh food for the next day. Even though we went in with a list of 4 main things to get we still came out with 2 huge bags. The thing with travelling is, if you see a food you haven’t tried and it’s cheap you tend to buy it just to see if it tastes as good as it looks.
    This time we bought chocolate wafer biscuits that are really tasty, some nuts that are covered in a bacon flavour which are also tasty, some deep white chocolate milka biscuits which we haven’t tried yet and some olives with goats cheese and peppers to snack on.
    Our first destination was now just 2 miles away and getting down the tiny roads of Ille-Sur-Tut was abit of a challenge that hadn’t been thought out very well for a tourist destination but eventually we found the camping car parking and Wanda could make some electric while we went for a hike.
    We had arrived at Les Orgues D’ille a spot that I had, had marked off in my camera list for about 3 years so we were excited to finally get to view it.
    We paid the €5 each to get in and were a little disappointed when the ticket staff told us it should take us about an hour to get around but off we went.
    We were lucky in the fact that there was hardly anyonelse there and it was really sunny so we had the best views. It is an amazing site, very much like Bryce Canyon in Utah but on a much, much smaller scale.
    We could spend days in Bryce and still not see it all. Here, a quick walk around in a loop and your done.
    We were glad we had seen it, it was special but not spectacular and we got some lovely photos and another memory, now it was time to move on.
    We drove a little further down the road to find an from a camping car company we had used before but when we pulled up to the barriers we were greeted by barking dogs that had been tethered to the only motorhome there so I quickly replotted the sat Nav and we headed for a little Airè in the village of Rodès.
    We knew we were going to have to pay for this place but there is a gorge walk we wanted to do and an old castle we wanted to see. We also need to top up the water tanks so paying €5 for a park up and €3 for water seemed like a good deal.
    Our hosts welcomed us, a chunky little french man and his wife hugging their little dog and they showed us where to park. He looked a little taken back when we said we only wanted one nights stay and looking at the 7 or 8 other campers here they all look like they’ve started to take route. Infact the camper next to us has a caravan attached and that lady is serving food.
    It was now 3pm and the sun was baking down at 23°c, Wanda was making plenty of electric so we made a cup of tea, caught up with our social media and then went hiking to the Gorge.
    It was a short hike to initially get to the gorge and then a 4km trek along an ancient viaduct with running water to view the remains of an old chapel right on the side of the gorge, we had truly breathtaking views. We had goats to keep us company on the other side of the aqueduct as we hiked on further, hundreds of them climbing the steep mountainside next to us and as we came to the end of the path we turned over a little footbridge and then took a climb up the side of a mountain to the remains of the Castell de Rodès, an ancient fortified castle from 1080. It is amazing how much of the original castle is still standing and how far it spread through the town that is there now. There are still archways in the town that used to lead up to the castle.
    We arrived back at Wanda just after 5pm, it was finally starting to cool down and after dinner we sat and chilled watching the clouds travelling over the nearby mountain tops with the windows open and a cool breeze blowing through.
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  • France, Andorra, Spain

    13 października 2022, Andora ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning we woken up at 6am, just before sunrise by a cockerel right outside Wanda’s window. I was laying in bed chuckling away because I thought it sounded quite French as he was missing his doodle in cock-a-doodle-doo so it sounded like cocker-doo instead. Then at 7am the was a crescendo of church bells that seemed to go on forever and then they continued to sound every 15 minutes. It was quite funny and luckily we’re early risers and had, had a good nights sleep apart from that.
    By 8am we were pretty much packed up and ready to roll, Wanda was all secured, we emptied our grey waste and refilled the fresh water tank and at 8:30 we hit the road cutting across the bottom of France and heading into the Pyrenees.
    Our target destination was the tunnel de Pyrenees heading from France into Andorra and it was only 18 miles away but it took nearly 2 hours driving up through the switch backs of the Pyrenees mountains, across a huge flat plateau of land on the top and then back down the other side. The Engine remap we had done before we left really helped Wanda get up the mountains and she performed beautifully pulling us up 7 - 10% gradients with relative ease. They were the tightest switch backs we had encountered and at one point while turning, the cupboard door flew open and all our tinned goods ended up on the floor. It gave us quite the fright.
    After rearranging things, we pushed on towards the tunnel but unfortunately I had plotted the sat Nav wrong and we missed the tunnel and ended up driving over more of the Pyrenees mountains at an even steeper gradient. The views were magnificent as they always are along the mountain passes and we were greeted by griffin vultures soaring along at eye height as customs just waved us through a checkpoint without even looking up, as we finally entered Andorra.
    This was our first time in Andorra and we didn’t know wether we would actually get here so we hadn’t done a lot of research except on the road, and our research had led us to believe we were going to struggle to find somewhere free or even cheap to spend the night.
    I had found 2 viewpoints to try to get to that I had marked in the gps, and as we struggled to find somewhere to park along the main drag of a town called Canillo we decided to just head straight for one if those where there would be a car park.
    We turned right off the main drag and immediately the road veered up to a 7% gradient and we were climbing the famous Col d’Ordino, featured in the Tour de France and La Vuelta.
    Markers were dotted at every kilometre going up telling cyclists the gradient and at what kilometre they were at and the names of famous cyclists like Alberto Contador and Alejandro Valverde were etched into the floor. Wanda was once again driving in the footsteps of legends.
    The switchbacks were incredible and so were the views and finally after 7 kilometres of driving at 7% we reached a gravel car park, where surprisingly there were very few other cars or campers.
    Here, we parked up and took a small walk to one of our highlighted locations. A glass platform over hanging the edge of Col d’Ordino with a panoramic view. We paid our €5 euro each and off we went.
    The views were incredible, and we were lucky to have caught it on a sunny day with no people but we realised we probably had that same view from the car park where Wanda was and we just paid €5 for the thrill of standing on a glass platform 2000 meters up.
    We soon realised Andorra was going to be a problem because it’s not in the EU so we had no phone signal and no data. That wasn’t a problem until we realised we could only do things in Andorra if we booked them online which meant the worlds second longest suspension bridge had to be missed and we couldn’t pay to park anywhere.
    We could have stayed out for the night in the car park at the top of the mountain but we thought it would probably be very cold and we had also told Ben he could contact us by text and as it cost nearly a £1 to text we realised that wasn’t feasible so we headed back down the mountain and plotted a course for Spain.
    We hit the next Andorran town of Encamp just as schools were closing and the traffic was a complete nightmare, not to mention the speed cameras every 50 meters and the constantly changing speed limits. TomTom couldn’t keep up and was pinging and dinging constantly with warnings.
    Finally after nearly an hour of being tense, we drove out of Encamp to a big digital smiling face saying thank you for visiting, we were waved through customs again this time they did check us for tobacco and alcohol, and then we were in Spain.
    Our Third Country of the day.
    It was now 4:30pm and within 2 miles of leaving Andorra we had Cell service and data again and we checked Park4night and found a free camp site with all facilities in a town called Organya, just 12 miles away.
    We arrived at 5pm, there were several other motorhomers already there and there is also an overflow free parking area that Vanlifers seem to be attracted to. It’s funny how motorhomers and vanlifers don’t mix, although, we are 2 very different breeds.
    This place has a large leisure facility nearby with showers, toilets and all sorts of sports and for €4:50 we can use the facilities. I decided to have a hot shower and use the toilets and on the way back to Wanda in the dark all the motorhomes had there TV’s on while the vanlifers vans had all exploded, with there belongings spread all around there vans and they were sat outside talking and shouting each other and generally being noisy.
    We settled in for the night about 8pm.
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  • La Seu d’Urgell to Vinebre

    14 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Church bells rang every hour, on the hour all night. But despite that noise we slept quite well until 7am when there seems to be a crescendo of bells to wake the village up so that’s when we got up.
    We were eager to get going today so by 9am we were ready to move, we refilled Wanda’s water tank ready for a few days away from people and then drove around the corner to the main high street of La Seu d’Urgell.
    Today was our first washing day and there was a laundrette just behind the camp on the edge of the high street, we parked up right in front of the building, Ellie took the washing in and I decided to go down the high street to look for the bike shop that was advertised on google maps.
    It was now 10am, the time the bike shop was meant to open. I needed 4 CO2 canisters and a couple of inner tubes and a spare pump because the stuff I had brought with me was crap. I didn’t think for 1 minute this bike shop would even be there, let alone open, so I was really surprised to find the shop and it was open and it was stocked from floor to ceiling with quality gear. The owner didn’t speak a word of English but through google translate he gave me 4 CO2 cylinders, 2 inner tubes that were the right size and he gave me a light weight quality pump. I did tell him he was a hero, and told him I loved his shop all through google translate and now I could go back to the trails without having to worry.
    With the washing done we plotted the sat Nav, did a quick Lidl shop en route and then drove 50 miles to La Bisbal de Falset to our first Catalonian destination.
    The Cave Hospital of Santa Llùcia. This was a remarkable place which as it’s namesake says is a cave and was used as a hospital in the 1938 civil wars of Catalonia. There was even a remarkable story on the boards about a welsh guard who got injured and an MP from Norwich who went over there to comfort him while he recovered from his injuries.
    Time was now ticking on and it was 3:30pm, so Ellie looked on Park4night and found us another free airè in the town of Vinebre. It was a newly built Airè, with a dump station and water for free and when we entered the car park we saw a board with hiking and biking trails marked off all starting from there.
    We parked up, made a cup of tea with some biscuits and I downloaded a 5 mile walk through town and along the Ebrè river and then back in a loop.
    We set off about 4:30pm and it was a beautiful walk that started from the airè, down the main high street, through a purpose built subway and then out into the countryside surrounded by apple and olive trees. We passed a few locals all out for walks and then we came across a Dutch couple down by the rivers edge who were looking for somewhere to service there motorhome. I looked somewhere up and emailed them the directions and then we were on our way along the river bank.
    The trail continued for about a mile and a half along the rivers edge before turning right and heading back past more olive trees before coming to a very quiet road that led us all the way back to town and eventually back to Wanda.
    It was now 6:30pm and we were quite worn out so we both had showers while we could refill the water, had a very late dinner and then settled in for the night.
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  • Castel de Mora & Miravet

    15 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Last night we hardly got any sleep. After our walk around Vinebre which was beautifully quiet when we returned to our peaceful camp it seemed as though the whole town had let there dogs out, and unfortunately they stayed out, and barking all night.
    Then at 5:30am one of the locals came to collect his car and that’s when we realised why he had parked his car there overnight. When he released the alarm the horn sounded and obviously woke his neighbour’s up.
    So we were up super early at 6am and both felt like crap.
    We filled Wanda’s water tanks, dumped the grey waste and prepared for a couple of days off grid and at 8:30am we left the noise and barking dogs of Vinebre behind us. It was a real shame it was noisy because it was a beautiful area with lots of hikes to explore.
    Our first destination was a car park for motorhomes in the town of Mora d’Ebre to go and visit the castle and after parking and securing Wanda we set off following the huge River Ebre into the town. It was a beautiful walk, steeped in the history as this was the bloodiest site of the Battle of Ebre and the town was also formed by the knights Templar some 2500 years ago.
    Unfortunately on reaching the remains of the castle we realised it was closed this time of year except on certain days. That’s one of the risks you run when travelling out of season, but there was no mention of that on google.
    We headed back to Wanda and then headed for our next destination, Miravet. It was only a 15 minute drive and there was a huge area dedicated to motorhomes that was quiet and very relaxing.
    We had lunch of Wanda Toasties, had a 30 minute nap to make up for last night and then used the Komoot app to find a nice hike.
    I found a nice little walk of 3.5km that took us through town, and by the castle so we grabbed our bags and off we went.
    Miravet was just a small village 2500 years ago until the knights Templar moved in, built a church and a convent and bought wealth to the area as a strategic stronghold. From then, the now town saw many wars including the battle of Ebre and the first and second Spanish civil wars but to see the town you would never know.
    It is probably the most medieval and beautiful riverside town we have seen, and as we walked further into the town climbing higher the buildings became more ancient and history was jumping out at us from every street and corner. Huge ancient archways, covered allyways held up with beams from old trees, massive doorways made from real wood all decoratively carved. It really is a grand spectacle.
    The hike took us from the town along part of the cliff top next to the river and then went up and double backed on itself only higher. We were now walking on the old granite steps that would have led from the river, upto the castle. It was amazing to think of how many thousands of people must have walked on these steps over 2500 years. The stories they could tell.
    We decided not to rush the day and leave visiting the castle until tomorrow, we were both tired, it was very hot and we don’t need to rush things.
    We returned to Wanda at 3 o Clock and spent the rest of the day relaxing and watching the world go by.
    After dinner we went for another walk down by the river to see the town lit up and then settled in for the evening. Hoping for a much better nights sleep.
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  • Castel de Miravet

    16 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Once again last night we didn’t get a lot of sleep, what seemed to be the perfect camp turned into a sound capture zone for a locals party. I had slept through it all until 2am when they cranked the volume right up and I woke up wondering what the thudding sound was. Also Ellie had a fever and spent most of the night either sweating or shivering.
    I was awake at 7:30 and wanted to go in a bike ride but after 2 coffees and not alot of sleep I didn’t leave until nearly 9am. I left Ellie in bed to catch up on some sleep.
    I set off towards Mora d’Ebre following the path of the river. I went through olive groves, pomegranates, oranges and lemon fields before coming to Mora d’Ebre town and keeping the river on my right I followed a disused tarmac road until I reached the edge of the national park.
    From there I turned inland and started climbing at 6% rising to a maximum of 10% at it’s steepest point. I stopped for a break at what I thought was the top of the mountain for about 20 mins, had a couple of breakfast bars before setting off again.
    Unfortunately for me that wasn’t the top and I did another 5km of climbing before finally starting the descent on rough gravel.
    It was a fast descent too, a top speed of 54kph overtaking 2 cars who were trundling along cautiously trying not to rip the sump out of the bottom until they saw me and pulled over to let me pass.
    Before I knew it I was back on ground level, albeit a little lumpy in cycling terms, rolling up and down through yet more fields of olive trees, and as I looked back I could see the summit I had just climbed. It was quite incredible.
    I arrived back at Wanda with 46 kilometres under my belt just after 11:30am. Ellie had literally been up for 5 minutes so I was glad I didn’t rush to get back.
    I had a quick wash while Ellie fried me up a Spanish Tortilla and after eating, we headed back into Miravet to climb the steps to Castel de Miravet.
    It was a tough climb reaching the castle and we had to stop a couple of times for Ellie to recover as she was still feeling a little rough, but the views on the way up were incredible so stopping was well worth it.
    Finally we reached Castil de Miravet. It is a massive castle made from huge 2 foot granite blocks. It was originally a Moorish stronghold until the knights Templar moved into it in the 11th century, at that point the surrounding town grew in size and wealth. Inside of the castle everything seemed huge aswell. A stable block that used to have 2 floors, a cistern for holding the water, a granary and cellar that was bigger that a small English church and a massive dining room where you could see the ancient pillars and a gunpowder room. The icing on the cake for the whole castle was the church room that has been almost fully restored to it’s former glory. It had a massive arched ceiling with pillars either end, the original paint was still on parts of the walls with red lines running horizontally and black lines running up and down vertically. It must have been an incredible sight in it’s time.
    Mid afternoon we went back to Wanda so Ellie could rest up for the rest of the day and keep out of the sun, it has been very hot the last couple of days which definitely beats the gloomy greys of England.
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  • Miravet to Prat de Compte

    17 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Last night we slept like the dead after our previous 2 nights of not a lot of sleep. It was quiet, peaceful, no vanlifers turning up at all hours so we woke up at 6am refreshed and awake. Although Ellie was still feeling a little rough. Her fever has gone but now she has the symptoms of a cold.
    Our first port of call for the day was to get some shopping, so we doubled back on ourselves for 6 miles and went to a Mercadonna supermarket back in Molina d’Ebre. We stocked the cupboards for the next few days and then set off, heading back through Miravet, out the other side to a place we had just found on google maps called Prat de Compte. The drive was beautiful with lots of green Rocky Mountains and switchbacks and the roads were super quiet.
    We had found a little airè on park4night and arrived just before lunchtime and we were the only ones here, this would be night number 11 with no electric hook up and it would also be our 10th free night so we are super pleased with how our solar is working.
    We filled the water tanks, emptied the grey waste, had a cup of tea and then went for a walk around the town. We saw just 3 people in total and checking on google it has a population of 178. The streets were beautiful with ancient buildings and and brickwork everywhere. Tiny narrow streets crisscrossed each other and the whole place was a rabbit warren of little wooden doorways and shuttered windows with the church in the middle. This was the only building open and as we poked our heads around the door there was an elderly nun in a beige habit with a mobile phone in her hand and an open laptop in front of her and she beckoned us in to see the inside.
    It was a beautiful building with all the gaudily pomp of the European churches we had seen before. Gold leaf everywhere, pink walls and a highly decorated ceiling and statues of saints everywhere. We aren’t religious atall but we do love a nice church.
    The hot springs we are going to visit are just a few hundred meters down the road, but it is a steep climb and Ellie is still feeling wiped out so we returned to Wanda where Ellie could rest and I decided to go on a bike ride.
    The Viaverde greenways are a network of disused railway lines that have been recovered for use by walkers and bikers and they crisscross the whole of Spain covering thousands of miles and one of those lines is in Prat de Compte.
    I set off at 3pm and and headed down the hill towards the railway lines. I hit a new top speed of 82.9kph on my bike, that’s 51mph in old money but I knew I’d be a lot slower on the way back up. At the bottom of the hill I saw the Prat de Compte railway station looking pretty sorry for itself. That’s part of the attraction of these old railway lines. The rails have gone and have been replaced with tarmac but everything else of the railways is still there.
    I turned right onto the paved track and almost immediately had to put my front light on as I entered a tunnel that was pitch black and 900 meters long. I came out the other side into bright sunlight, albeit rather windy into a canyon like landscape with a beautiful gorge and river running underneath the raised trail I was now riding on, then I crossed a huge viaduct and entered another tunnel, this one was 700 meters long, and when I came out the other side I was entering the village of Bot.
    Here there was a small car park with 3 motorhomes parked up with there owners either walking or riding the greenway and there was also an airstream style railway carriage that had been turned into a restaurant and bar.
    I carried on, passing through several more tunnels, crossing over huge viaducts that were hundreds of feet above ground level and passing old abandoned buildings, coal houses and stations. All the while I had beautiful mountain views either side of me.
    At the 25 kilometre mark I came to a river and a waterfall just after the town of Arno. Here I turned back on myself and headed for Wanda.
    Back at Prat de Compte station I turned left back into the road and headed uphill. This was going to be the longest climb I had ever done in real life and it was steep.
    I knew how far I had cycled already so I knew when the Speedo readout said I was 46km I had atleast a 4km climb. I dropped down some gears, saving 3 in reserve incase I got really knackered, stood on the pedals and went for it. My plan was to look at the road in front of my front wheel rather than ahead so I couldn’t see how steep it was but 1km in I looked up and saw tarmac and switchbacks curving up and out of sight. I dropped down 1 gear but kept pushing. A year ago I knew I couldn’t have done this, I kept thinking about all the cycling I’ve been doing. All the AR climbs I’d done, all the fake mountains I have climbed. Has any of it worked? Is indoor cycling really as good at getting me fit and prepared?
    It turns out it is. I climbed 3.2km at a gradient of 7% rising to 14% for 90 meters and stayed a steady 17kph all the way up. I was super proud of myself.
    Back at Wanda I cleaned up and told Ellie about the ride and where we would drive tomorrow to join the greenway so she could come and she cooked us some burgers for dinner. The food was well needed.
    Sitting in Wanda, we can hear the church bells going off every 15 minutes. It’s not a normal bell sound, it far more musical and it proved that at 9pm by playing a tune for 2 minutes building up to the hour. We thought that was the final crescendo for the night but at 9:15 they continued and are still continuing every hour. I quite like it but it’s driving Ellie up the wall.
    Let’s see how we sleep and pass judgement in the morning.
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  • La Fontacalda & Azud de Lledò

    18 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The church bells rang all night. Every 15 minutes but I slept through them. However Ellie did not and this morning she felt really rough, with a headache, sore throat and a cough.
    Wanda was down to just 1 bar on the battery monitor. Normally she is in 3 out of 4. So we spent an hour deciding whether to drive back on ourselves to the town of Bennisanet and get a hook up for €10 for 24 hours or drive to Bot, where there was a campsite by the viaverde greenway but it was €23 plus €4 for electric.
    The problem was, it was nearing 10am and the cloud across the mountains was really thick and black so there would be no power to the solar.
    We decided on going to La Fontacalda warm springs which is where I joined the viaverde greenway yesterday. It was only about 2 miles away but it was at the bottom of the mountain and we were already here. If it wasn’t sunny at the bottom we would call it a day and go to Bennisanet and hook up.
    At the bottom of the mountain in the former Prat de Compte station car park it was blazing hot sunshine and I parked Wanda in a sunny spot and the solar started working. We decided we would visit the warm springs and see what it was doing when we returned.
    This time we turned left on the viaverde greenway and straight through 2 tunnels, 1 at 300 meters and the next at 170 meters. As we emerged from the second tunnel there was a bridge to cross to continue, or a path that led underneath the bridge and to La Fontacalda. We took the path down, winding for a few hundred meters down the mountainside until we came to a bushy hedgerow of small trees and as we followed the trail along the side and through, we were at the most beautiful river gorge with a bridge and 2 sets of steps. The left hand side leading up the mountainside and the right hand side leading to a lower concrete platform with a small square pool of warm water and a path that led up to a church. The small square pool of warm water was the warm spring, and compared to the river it was warm. But definitely not hot spring warm so we didn’t venture in.
    We decided to climb the steps up the side of the mountain for as long as Ellie could handle it and we had the most spectacular views of the gorge and little waterfalls. It looked like something out of Jurassic Park.
    After a bit of climbing Ellie was having trouble catching her breath so we turned around and went to have a look at the church. It was an incredible building built in 1789 and although we couldn’t get inside today there is a square cut in the door so people can still view it. It smelt like all churches.
    We went back to Wanda and after another debate on what we should do I decided to take Ellie to the viaduct and waterfall I had seen yesterday as there was a big car park.
    We drove the 9 miles there in about 15 minutes on absolutely dead roads and on arriving we found the car park empty and parked Wanda in the sun. The solar was doing it’s job atlast and we were making decent power.
    After a late lunch we headed down to the waterfalls which was part of the same river we had just visited and it was a natural swimming area. I decided to go for a swim and even though I stood in the water past my waist for 10 minutes it didn’t warm up. I decided to just go for it in the end and just dived in completely submerging myself. It was icy cold but refreshing at the same time. I did find a warm spot that the sun was shiny on and I stayed in for about 10 minutes until the fish got a little to interested in me.
    We sat on the side for about 20 minutes and Ellie fed the fish some crusts off the bread and then we went back to Wanda so Ellie could have a nap while I fixed an inner tube.
    At 6pm we were just settling in for the night on our own in the car park and as the sun set, the mosquitoes came out. Even with the fly screens down the buggers got in and started eating us. We closed the windows and started splatting the ones that had got in and just as we thought we had got them all another one would appear. With the windows and hatches shut it got very stuffy, very quickly and we decided we probably wouldn’t sleep very well here so at 7pm we drove back to Prat de Compte where it was much cooler and also much windier on the mountainside. Ellie said she would sleep with earplugs in so she wouldn’t hear the church bells and that was a small sacrifice to make for getting a good nights sleep.
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  • The Via Verdè la terra alta

    19 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Finally Ellie had a good nights sleep. But she is still feeling rough so today was going to be a taking it easy day.
    After waking up at 7am and having 2 coffees which is my normal ritual I just wanted to get off the mountainside in Prat de Compte and back to the car park in Lledò for when the sun came up to catch as much solar power as possible. So at 8:30, we left Prat de Compte and drove the 9 miles back to where we were yesterday evening.
    Unfortunately for us the weather wasn’t playing ball today and thick hazy cloud obscured the sun right up until 10am. At which point we gave up looking at the solar monitor and decided to go on a bike ride and whatever power was generated was what we would have. Except for moving area, which we didn’t want to do, there was nothing we could do about the sunshine.
    It was cool when we set off on the bikes but not cold, perfect cycling weather and within 15 minutes we both took some layers off and were back into shorts and t-shirts. Our first stop was going to be the convent at Hortè saint de Joan but as we left the viaverde greenway the road took a nasty climb and Ellie couldn’t manage it. We could see the convent on top of the hill at the centre of town but no matter how much Ellie cursed that climb she wasn’t going any further so we turned around and continued along the cycle way towards Bot.
    We passed through long dark railway tunnels, over viaducts and had mountain views all the way. There were hundreds of school kids from various schools in the area either out for a day trip or having a long PE lesson but they were all having a great time and it was great to see so many youngsters out on there bikes. I even got a high five from one as we passed them by.
    Everyone we met said hello, and passing farmers on tractors in there fields waved at us. This really is a great place to explore.
    We reached Bot just after midday and stopped at the cafe that was made from an old railway shed and done up like an airstream. We both had excellent coffees.
    Then we decided to climb the hill into town and explore a bit.
    We passed a couple of factories the first being an olive processing plant and we could see the olives going along the belts and then poured into huge vats. Next door was a grape processing plant where they made wine and off to the side was a little shop selling the wine that had been produced there. We headed down the main drag. I can’t call it a high street because there’s no shops but it is the main road that runs through the centre of all these little towns in this area and at the centre of all is the church, and the town hall. Outside of Bots town hall were 7 elderly gentlemen waiting for there turn to go inside and when we passed they all greeted us.
    We turned right from the town hall, doubling back on ourselves and heading through a rabbit warren of ancient streets and architecture before coming to the top of the hill we had just climbed and going back down to rejoin the cycleway. As pretty as Bot was we weren’t sold on moving in anytime soon. But we do love the freedom in this area.
    We headed back for Wanda, passing through the railway tunnels again and over the viaducts. Stopping at a couple of the old stations for Ellie to regain her strength and at 2:30pm with 36km under our belts we arrived back at Wanda.
    It had been quite a long day in the saddle, more so for Ellie who doesn’t like riding a bike on a good day let alone when she’s feeling rough, but she pushed through and without the bikes we wouldn’t have seen all that we had.
    The sun still hadn’t broken through the cloud and the solar had only made 80 watt hours. We were going to have to use the power sparingly.
    We knew we couldn’t sleep in Lledò because of the mosquitoes so we headed back for Prat de Compte for our third night. It is certainly a lot cooler on the mountainside so we sleep better.
    Getting back to the car park, we heated the water had showers and then relaxed for the evening. We had a visit from a vanlifer who decided to park right on top of us at 5:30pm but then they left so we were happy, only to be disappointed at 8pm when the same vanlifers rocked back up and started messing about in there van trying different ways to park it. At 8:30, we’re not sure whether the wind put them off or the church bells but they left. So we had yet another free night on our own.
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  • Prat De Compte to Roquettes

    20 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We woke up this morning to rain. It was the first time in 14 days of travelling Wanda had got wet and although it wasn’t heavy rain, it looked pretty bleak and black in the mountains.
    We had already decided we were going to move today and explore more further down. Ellie had found a house she liked in the arse end of nowhere in the the village of Els Reugars just out Roquettes so that’s where we were heading.
    We checked the map and it seemed as though Roquettes was a busy town with lots of shops, supermarkets and laundrettes so because it was raining we thought today would be a good day to do some laundry. The washing bag was only half full but that would give us the chance to wash all of the bedding aswell.
    We headed for a supermarket just off the main drag of Roquettes and as we entered the car park there was only 10 cars in it which is unheard of for any supermarkets we have visited so far. We had to wait 20 minutes for the largest washing machine of 18kg but once that was free, we chucked our dirty laundry in and then popped inside the store to get a few things we had run out of. Except for there own brand stuff it was crazy expensive, I wanted some Brie for cheese toasties and it was €1.50 for a triangle, roughly the same price as the UK. In Lidl I can buy a complete circle for the same price and in France I have a selection of circles to choose from.
    We just bought the essentials, then sat in the car park and had lunch and a cup of tea while the washing did it’s thing. 50 minutes later everything was clean and dry and we were heading for the house in Els Reugars.
    TomTom took us the scenic route down the gravel tracks for about 3 miles which we later found out wasn’t entirely necessary as there is an easier way in and out.
    We found the house we liked, nobody was around, so we got out and checked it out.
    From the outside it looks more beautiful than it does on the website and the owners have just painted the outside and built a new barbecue area. The house is set in it’s own 5 acres of olive trees and has a mountain backdrop. We both loved it.
    Ellie messaged the estate agents and they quickly got back to us firstly saying that we could view the house tomorrow. We had a chat about the pros and cons of owning a house in this area and this house does tick a lot of boxes. Neighbours, but they are not to close. Mountain views, rivers, a town nearby but not to near, trails to go walking and biking, a quiet area.
    Then the estate messaged back and said he’d spoken to the owners and they no longer want to sell they would rather rent it out. So that put that to rest…….. or so we thought.
    30 minutes later the estate agents messaged back and said the owner would sell and could we view it tomorrow at 4pm. So tomorrow we are viewing a property in Spain.
    In between the messaging I think we had convinced ourselves that buying somewhere out here as a holiday home isn’t right for us. Personally I would move out here and seek residency but Ellie doesn’t want to do that and I don’t think a holiday home is a practical use of our savings. So tomorrow we are going to go with an open mind and a list of questions and see what happens.
    After looking at the house we headed back to Roquettes to a free airè in the edge of the city, it has all services and we specifically came here to get electric and charge the battery as it was down to below 50% because of the lack of bright sunshine the last 3 days.
    We expected to pay for the electric hook and were wondering all the way here, would it be card, or cash or an app but when we got here the electric, like everything else here, is free. We can’t believe it, another free night and this time we’re boosting Wanda’s batteries and saving gas on the water heater and fridge.
    After plugging Wanda in we then headed into town down the Viaverde greenway which runs through here and then we picked up the canal path.
    Roquettes itself is a thriving town with lots of shops, banks, supermarkets, a cinema and a leisure centre with the river Ebre running right through it’s centre and 2 man made canals running off it. Although it does look a bit dirty from a distance. We then got some emergency cash out of a local bank, paying €6 for the privilege and headed back to Wanda to escape the drizzle that had just started again, although it is still a sweltering 28°c inside and out and feels stormy.
    We have all the windows and hatches open and the fans are running but we just seem to be moving warm air around, we’re hoping it will cool down later in the evening.
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  • Roquettes & Tortosa

    21 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We were up at 7:30am before sunrise. It was a quiet night although incredibly stuffy. Now we had electric I left the fan on all night.
    First thing I did when I got up was check Wanda’s charger. The battery bar was flicking between 3/4 and full so I was pleased with that. We would be leaving Wanda here most of the day and hopefully tonight so by the time we leave we should be good for quite a few days. More if it is really sunny.
    After breakfast at 9:30 we decided to walk down the viaverde greenway to Tortosa. In a straight line it was only about a mile away and it really gave us a chance to look around.
    The walk was beautiful, we saw a red squirrel and there was some housing for abandoned cats with food, water and CCTV to watch over them, just off the path. We crossed over the Ebre river via an old steel railway bridge and then we were in Tortossa.
    The city was nothing like we expected, it was relatively quiet and felt calm. Yes there was traffic and people but it didn’t seem to have the rush about it like London or Paris. We turned left off the bridge, crossed over the road where traffic actually stopped for us and headed for this huge building just off the rivers edge. The building had huge doors and tables and chairs outside and at first we thought it was a giant restaurant. Infact it turned out to be a giant food market where you could buy any sort of food imaginable. There was fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, hot food to eat in or take away, cold food to eat in or take away, tinned stuff, packet stuff, dried food, you name it they had it and was a real feast for the eyeballs.
    I had a spanish tortilla, tucked inside a fresh baked baguette and a lattè. The food was delicious and they really know how to make coffee here.
    We left the food market the opposite end we entered and came out into a bustling street of shops and cafes. We looked around a few of the original shops before walking up a hill and coming to an ancient Roman archway. It was amazing to see the carvings and sculptures on the walls, and now we had entered the old town.
    It was distinctly different with it’s old brickwork, and huge three and four story buildings with iron railed balconies and shuttered doors and windows. Also we were back to allyways with original wooden doors and arched doorways.
    We walked on and found a huge church but we couldn’t seem to find an entrance and from there we climbed some steps taking the tourist route upto the castle.
    The castle is now a privately owned hotel so we couldn’t get inside but we could get to the battlements ruins and they were massive. Standing on the top you could see how far the castle stretched and it must have been 3/4 mile in either direction with the castle in the middle. In it’s day it was the largest castle in the Iberian peninsula and it must have looked glorious and formidable to anyone viewing it from the outside.
    We left the battlements and headed back down into the city. We did look for the old Roman baths but Ellie started to feel unwell again and we headed out of the city back towards the river and rested in the park before walking back to Wanda down the cycleway.
    We had walked 5.5 miles in total, and it was a very sticky day so arriving back at Wanda we both took a nap for 30 minutes and recovered from the heat.
    At 3:30pm we left the Airè to go and view the house in Els Reugers. We were abit early so parked at the bottom of the mountains and that’s when I realised it was a cycling route and the length of the mountain climb and gradients were marked out from the bottom up.
    This would have been a great house to buy if we both wanted to move here. The inside of the house was just as beautiful and quaint as the outside and the estate agent explain all about how the house used to work, and it had a mezzanine floor in it so the farmers could sleep on that while the animals slept downstairs. It was fascinating but he already told us when he arrived it was no longer up for sale but we could rent it. We will keep an eye on Air B&B and see if it comes up.
    On leaving Els Reugars I realised my back wheel had yet another puncture, the fourth since we’ve been here so we went to decathlon to find some more but they just had crap ones there, I did find a cycle shop nearby so that’s what we’re doing in the morning.
    We eventually got back to Roquettes and the Airè after stopping at McDonald’s en route at 7:30pm. There was just one free space left. Partly because the idiots at the end had wound out there awning and were taking up 2 spaces.
    Then we put the TV on and chilled for the rest of the evening with both the fans roaring away and both roof vents open it is still 24°c outside and 26 inside.
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  • Beciete and back again

    22 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I woke up this morning feel as rough as. I didn’t feel great last night with a slight sore throat and headache but I was hoping I’d feel ok today. Ellie was still feeling knackered.
    We had decided to drive to the town of Beciete today and try and hike the gorges of El Parrizial. I found a park4night spot to head for and marked that off in TomTom but the actually gorges were down a small track and I wasn’t sure we would get Wanda down there.
    Leaving Roquettes and our electric hook up I drove 1 mile round the corner to a bike shop to get 2 new tyres as my back one is knackered.
    Then we got diesel before making the 40 mile trek to Beciete. To me it was a real struggle, I just wanted to sleep even though I had, had a good nights sleep and my back, neck and shoulders really hurt.
    We pulled into the Park4night spot in Beciete and we were all alone. There was an information board there with a QR code so we scanned that and it told us all about the area and the fact that we need to book tickets for the gorge walk, motorhomes are only allowed down to the gorge walk on weekdays and motorhomes need to be less than 210cm wide. Wanda is just over 250.
    After a 30 minute power nap I decided to call it a day and head back to Roquettes. I was worried about feeling worse tomorrow and not having enough sun to charge the batteries if we stayed in and watched tv so we headed back to Roquettes.
    The drive again was a real struggle and I was just counting the miles going down to get there.
    Once we got there we opened the windows and hatches and plugged in. Then we put the TV on and had a lazy day. Atleast here we have all resources to keep us going.
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  • Covid

    23 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke up this morning feeling worse than yesterday. My throat felt like I had been eating razor blades and I hardly slept. At one point in my delirious state last night I got up, went to the toilet and then threw a glass of juice of the cooker, covered it up with 2 teatowels and then got back in bed. And I just could get my feet warm.
    We realise now that we both probably have Covid 19 which is unbelievably unfortunate. Since day one of the covid outbreak we have been super careful and even here, although we don’t wear masks anymore we do disinfect our hands all the time.
    I’d been awake for about an hour before I fell asleep again while Ellie watched YouTube. Then when I woke up I unmade the bed and put the TV on. First we watched a really stupid film in Netflix, then something else on Disney all the time we were both drifting in and out of consciousness.
    We’ve had a day of complete rest hoping that will speed our recovery, Ellie has been in her pyjamas all day.
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  • One more day in Roquettes

    24 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we both woke up feeling pretty rough still. Ellie coughed through most of the night in her sleep and I had a proper sweat on and still have a sore throat.
    We had resided to the fact that we weren’t going to do anything today except relax and recuperate and we felt better later then we would do something.
    By mid morning we were both bored and needed some shopping so we drove to Tortosa which was our closest Lidl and re supplied the cupboards. We should be good now for the next 3-4 days.
    Back at the air I managed to drive Wanda nose in to one of the end bays and when we open the habitation door there is a wall so now it’s like we have our own private courtyard.
    I got both our camping chairs out and we sat outside in the sun with cold drinks. Being on the fresh air made us feel a lot better.
    After about an hour I decided I was feeling a lot better so decided to change my bike tyres for the new ones I had bought a couple of days ago. This should have been a 20 minute job but as with all quick jobs, it turned into a nightmare and as I changed the front wheel I split my last inner tube.
    I replaced with one that I had already repaired but that was all I had so I decided to ride around the corner, back to the bike shop where I got the tyres and get some inner tubes.
    Being on the bike felt good. I was worried that Covid might have gotten on my chest but I felt fine. Except for my sore throat.
    After collecting the inner tubes, I returned to camp and decided that tomorrow we would hit the road again.
    We had,had enough rest and sometimes doing nothing makes you do more nothing, so tomorrow we are definitely leaving here.
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  • Roquettes, Ebredelta & El Perello

    25 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This morning we woke up bright and early. Today was going to be moving day and by 8:30am the bed was away and Wanda was beginning to look like she was going somewhere.
    Tidying up I took the chance to disinfect all hard surfaces, the worktops, cupboards, all latches, the mirrors and even the habitation door handles. We are definitely done with feeling like crap from Covid.
    Just after 9am we were ready for lift off and Ellie watched me back up to the water and waste area so I didn’t drive over the crazy cat lady’s cats, once we had refilled with fresh and emptied the grey we were away. Glad to see the back of Roquettes unfortunately, but knowing that it is a nearby safe haven for utilities if we keep getting this hazy sunshine.
    We had set our goals low and decided not to push ourselves to hard on the first day of being back in the road and headed for another Park4night spot deep in the Ebredelta about 20 miles away.
    Driving there was a complete contrast to anything we have driven in through any of our other countries. Rice fields lay either side of us and huge tractors with caterpillar wheels on the back and huge studs in the front were working them, spraying up muddied water as they ploughed through. All manors of water birds were just sitting out in the open, egret’s, Herons, Ibises, Cormorants, kingfishers and various buntings aswell as hawks gliding above the rice paddies. It was a spectacular sight and looked like something from Asia rather than Catalonian Spain.
    TomTom took us down various single track roads with nothing but water and rice grass either side of us and it was a little scary as there would have been no chance of turning around had it been a wrong road, but once again TomTom Camper done us proud and got us to the spot without incident.
    It was a beautiful little park up spot right on the edge of the bay down a gravel track where the Ebre river meets the sea and it was unbelievably quiet.
    We sat there for about an hour, had lunch of the magic Wanda toasties, watched the fish jumping out of the sea. Watched some huge crabs right on the edge of the bay underneath our window’s scuttling across the rocky sea shore and watched the kingfishers coming and going. Then I opened a window and we watched the Mosquitoes flock straight to the fly screen. It was like a challenge had been offered to them. I quickly decided to close the window again but to do that I had to release the fly screen and within seconds a handful of mosquitoes were in. First challenge dealt with all they had to do now was bite one of us.
    Slapping the walls and ceilings and clapping our hands together we must have looked like a right pair of retards if anyone saw us but we did get them all. Then we sprayed ourselves up with jungle spray.
    We took the bikes off the back, locked Wanda up and then decided to head further down the gravel track we had come in on to see if we could reach the next town.
    It was a lovely leisurely ride and within 30 minutes we had reached the beach town of Ampalla. It looked like a nice town, probably because it was so quiet. We both thought it must be heaving in the summer with it’s huge high rise hotels. It looked like mini Benidorm from where we had parked Wanda and luckily the bike path ran out at the Marina which is the posh end with all the expensive fish restaurants so we definitely only saw the best bit but we were glad we ventured in nonetheless.
    We got back to Wanda about 3:30pm. Inside she was stuffy with no air and despite opening 1 roof hatch with the best fly screen it was still to hot and we decided we weren’t going to be able to sleep here after all. Especially once we started cooking dinner.
    El Perello was next on our list to go to and this has been my major destination. I’ve researched this place, the town planners are all hikers and bikers and they’ve developed 500 miles of trails for people to explore complete with a website, facts about the trails and GPX coordinates to download to your mobile device. The only problem I did find was a lack of car parks as every single trail except for 2 all start from the town centre.
    We managed to find 1 motorhome park up down by the beach with mixed reviews. It’s 5km from the main town but we figured we go there and then check the town parking situation tomorrow, so we took the 30 minute, 12 mile drive to the beach at El Perello.
    The park4night app stated that this place can hold up to 60 motorhomes. Do not stay for longer than 24 hours, don’t have chairs and tables outside of your motorhome, and keep the area clean.
    Obviously no one is enforcing the ground rules as when we pulled up there must be atleast 20 other motorhomers already here and although the grounds are tidy these guys look like they are staying for a while. Every single one has tables and chairs out of the motorhome, some even have surf boards and motorbikes on the ground next to there vehicles. Some vehicles even have trailers with cars on that are bigger than Wanda. We feel very unequipped.
    We found a fairly level spot next to an elderly Dutch couple and there’s no one on the spot in front of us so we thought we would have a nice quiet night. It’s now 5pm and except for the cluttering of dishes and cooking utensils the place is remarkably quiet.
    After dinner, just as it got dark at 8pm I closed all the blinds and we settled in for the night. That’s when the fun started.
    As we watched Netflix the music on the TV didn’t really correspond to what was happening so I paused the TV and we realised it was coming from outside. Yes, the Vampires had woken up and they were playing the Bongo drums right outside our front window. Not only that they had also set up 2 tables and 8 chairs and one of the freaks also had a guitar.
    There’s only one thing worse than bongos and that’s chanting and that’s what started next only in Swedish. One of them was tapping away on the drums, then he would say a word and all the others would repeat it. This went on for about 20 minutes and then when that ritual had finished mr guitar started.
    It is remarkable how selfish other people can be when there were, by now another 30 motorhomes here and by 10pm we’re all looking to turn in for the night and these arseholes are out there drinking, laughing and playing instruments and to top it off now they have a barking dog.
    Finally at 11:30pm they shut up, I really hope they are not here tomorrow.
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  • El Perello to Castillo

    26 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I didn’t sleep well at all last night. I went to sleep annoyed at the noisy morons who played there bongos and let there dogs bark until 11:30pm and once I was in bed I realised Wanda wasn’t level and I was sliding head first into the wall so I slept up the other end so I I slid down the bed instead which meant Ellie an I essentially topped and tailed.
    At 6am I gave up trying to sleep and admittedly I did consider putting food on the roofs and around the motorhomes that were noisy last night so the birds could have a feast and wake them up crapping all over there vans, but it’s my birthday and I didn’t really want any aggro, so I made coffee instead.
    At 8am we decided to get out of bed and get dressed, we had plans today and by 9am, after rush hour we were ready to leave and the noisy arseholes were still in bed. It took all my strength not to toot the horn on the way out. Beach park ups just attract a certain sort of traveller. Even if they’ve been parked in the woods for days once they all get to the beach it’s like they’re really on holiday and all sense, respect and morals go out of the window. Every beach park up we’ve been to is like this.
    Our first destination and main highlight of the day was to pass through El Perello to the other side and find a hike I had marked off where the was some prehistoric cave art and some caves. The description said there was a car park and the hike was easy.
    I’d marked the car park on TomTom and getting there was a real challenge. Once we passed around the town we hit gravel roads which I was kind of expecting, but what I wasn’t expecting was the roughness and the gradients. At no point in the description did it say the car park was 4x4 access only. 1/2 mile from the car park I found a flat patch of land off the gravel track where they had been cutting trees down. I managed to reverse park Wanda neatly on some flat bits just missing the tree stumps either side and then we walked the rest of the way to the car park.
    To be honest, Wanda had already done over 2 miles of gravel without struggling but I just didn’t want to risk breaking her or smashing her up for no reason or there not actually being a car park at the end of the track, because that would have been a nightmare to reverse out.
    We walked the rest of the way in and were glad we’d left Wanda as they were brush cutting the verges and there were huge spiny branches all over the track. Definitely puncture material.
    We started the hike and straight away started climbing and within 20 minutes we had climbed 450 meters and were sweating buckets. It wasn’t particularly sunny but it was very hot, very close, and absolutely no air. Ellie was finding it worse as Covid has definitely got on her chest.
    At this point we found the cave and cave art, it was amazing to think how many thousands of years old it was and how well preserved it is, but at some point in the past that whole wall must have been covered with the same picture art and the weather has taken it all.
    We pushed on, climbing to 750 meters before finally starting the decent on really rough rocky terrain. It was completely wild. No steps, no ropes, we were left to fend for ourselves. You would never have a path like this in England.
    At the bottom there was another cave but this one had no art although we could get into it as it was much bigger and there was an information post. All of the caves in this area were used as dwellings during the prehistoric ages.
    We headed back towards the car park and with the walk done we came to the conclusion that it wasn’t actually an easy family hike atall. I certainly wouldn’t take young children as that’s an accident waiting to happen.
    We made it back to Wanda still sweating, freshened up with some cold drinks and then headed for the main town of El Perello.
    All of the trails in the area covering over 500 miles of hiking and biking started from the municipal swimming pool in the town centre. I knew we couldn’t sleep here but I had found a free airè a couple of miles away and if parking was easy I’d be happy to drive in and we could hike and bike from there.
    Finding the municipal swimming pool and parking area was a nightmare, and TomTom was trying to take us down all sorts of streets. Eventually I found where we had to go.and fortunately there was already another motorhome parked there otherwise I’d have driven straight past. I reversed in and parked up. Then we went for a walk through town.
    El Perello is a tiny town but it seems to have all manor of shops and cafés and everything was open. There is even a town hall, municipal sports area complete with a full size football pitch and a police station but compared to other towns it is tiny. It seemed strange that this place had everything to offer but no Airè for us, but other much smaller villages and even bigger towns with no shops at all do offer an Airè for motorhomers. Especially as El Perello’s whole website and tourism is about hiking and biking but there’s nowhere in town to stay, or park if you have bikes.
    We went to a little Café for lunch as it was my birthday we thought we’d treat ourselves. We ordered coffees first and as soon as they came so did the olive flies. Hundreds and hundreds buzzing around us, landing on our hands, cups, eyes, ears and any other naked bit of skin. Olive flies look like a regular house flies just a fraction smaller and 10 times more annoying. That probably should have been our que to drink coffee and just leave but stupidly we ordered food as we were hungry and as soon as that came out more flies came. The food was delicious, but we woofed it down so fast because of the flies we didn’t really enjoy it. It was eat, pay the bill and leave.
    Heading back to Wanda we stopped at the municipal swimming pool to see where the trails started. Every single hike and bike trail started here and I had intended to do a few but the reality of it soon dawned on me that it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be.
    Sure you could go in trails, but you would have to cycle on the roads through town first. I had hoped there was a track leading out of town with various branches off to different trails and as for the hiking trails they were exactly the same. Once we’d walked through town once we weren’t going to do it every time to get to another trail. I was gutted, I’d had reall high hopes of loving this place and as much as I do love it, there’s nowhere for us to park or stay.
    We headed off to the town of L’amelia Del Mar where I had found a free place to stay in a car park that was away from the morons who like to stay at the beach. Once we pulled up we realised we had the A7 motorway in front of us and 2 railway lines directly behind us and one was for freight.
    It was now only 1:30pm so I said we should find somewhere else but Ellie was happy just not to have bongos or barking dogs for the night when on park4night this place in the middle of nowhere just popped up.
    It was just 30 minutes away. We’ll away from the beach on a mountainside and all the reviews were 5 star. I told Ellie this is the place and admittedly she was worried because she wanted to head back to the the Delta to see Flamingos but I was sure this would be better, and 30 minutes later we had arrived.
    The abandoned village of Castillo is definitely one of our more random finds and is unique in the fact that it is being restored. The town dates back originally to the 12th-13th century and was originally a tiny walled town with one huge pillar at it’s centre. Giving it the appearance of a castle and because of the 1 metre thick walls it would keep the townsfolk safe from invaders. Hence the name Castillo.
    All of the ground work of the original foundations are still here, a lot of the original walls are still here and from the air you can see the original shape of the town. It has been carefully and masterfully reconstructed using original materials since 2008 and just a few of the houses have been finished and people have moved in, but the rest of the town is still in a state of decay or restoration giving it a very ghostly feel and to top it off we saw nobody. It was certainly creepy and couldn’t work out whether we are allowed to be here, should be here, is it a tourist attraction or an archeological site?
    We spent about 90 minutes wandering around taking pictures and saw no one. Then we headed back to Wanda for the rest of the afternoon had some dinner and chilled out watching TV.
    As the sun set a different feeling came over the village. No lights came on atall and there is no moon. It is unbelievably still. The whole place is pitch black. There isn’t a sound except for lots of owls.
    This is one of the creepiest places we’ve stayed.
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  • Castillo, Deltaebrè & Roquettes

    27 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We survived the night. Yes it was as creepy as creepy gets and just after Ellie put her headphones on and went to sleep I heard footsteps outside. They probably weren’t human. Maybe a cat or a fox or some other creature of the night, but in the middle of the night, in the pitch black it doesn’t matter how old you are, your mind still plays tricks on you.
    And I’ve watched a lot of the x files recently.
    Apart from that we both slept like babies. It was dead quiet and it was cool which helped.
    At 7am I was awake and I’d planned a 30km bike ride but I actually ached from our little jaunt yesterday which is unlike me so I’m putting it down to not being recovered from covid fully and I scrapped the bike ride.
    We left Castillo just after 9am and took a 50 mile journey across the other side of the Deltaebrè. The furthest point you can drive a normal vehicle right to the beach at Ampolla to hopefully see the Flamingos on the salt flats. We had tried finding them the other day but ti no avail and Ellie was desperate to try again before we left the area.
    It took us just over an hour to get to the rice paddies and with water either side of us and the sea looming closer in front I suddenly saw a sea of pink on the left out the window. We pulled over and there they were. Thousands and thousands of flamingos. It was literally a pink sea as far as you could see and the noise was incredible. Atlast we had seen them, no wonder they call it a flamboyance.
    We carried on driving another 1/2 mile or so until we came to the beach and then we drove on to the beach and parked up, opened all the windows, had some lunch and then fell asleep for an hour listening to the sea.
    After our quick nap and feeling refreshed we headed for Ampolla town to do some shopping. Lidl was our first choice but it was tiny and had a tiny car park so we settled on Mercadonna which was easier but it’s more expensive. Luckily, except for fruit juice we just needed salad items.
    Just off the roundabout by Lidl the was a huge Chinese outlet, these places sell absolutely anything and everything and we wanted a long reach squeegee to clean the solar panel, we found one and also replaced our smashed up draws that broke when everything fell out of the cupboards in Andorra. That was a right bonus because now we could put our packets and tins back into draws and free up cupboard space again.
    From Ampolla we headed back to Roquettes and to our favourite little Airè with free electric. It wasn’t that we needed electric but tomorrow is going to be a washing day and I wanted to ride some more of the Viaverde greenway.
    We parked up at 4:30pm, sorted the draws out and rearranged the cupboards back to normal. Then at 5:15 I set off down the Viaverde baix greenway heading away from Roquettes, passing through Aldover, then Xerta, and out to the Xerta hydroelectric damn about 25km away. There I stopped and grabbed a couple of pictures and then turned around.
    Again I was amazed at how easy it is to cycle here. Pedestrians and cyclists are steered away from traffic at every convenience making it a real pleasure to cycle or walk anywhere and from one cycleway you can branch to another and another covering hundreds if not thousands of miles all across Spain.
    Chasing daylight I arrived back at Wanda at 7:15pm just after the sun had set, very sweaty. I showered while Ellie made a salad for dinner and after we had eaten it was TV time until we both fell asleep around 10pm.
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  • Roquettes to Artana

    28 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We were up at 8am bright and early. Today was washing day and moving day.
    By 9am Wanda was packed and ready to move and after helping a Dutch guy sort his water filler out it was our turn at the fill and dump station. We emptied our grey and refilled the fresh water and we were ready, then it was off to the eroski supermarket where the washers and driers were to wash our clothes and get some last minute supplies and then route plan.
    We only had a few bits to wash so the small washing machine got the abuse this time and while that did it’s job I planned the next airè for the night.
    We were moving area completely today. I’ll be sad to leave Catalonia and this area in particular. The people have been really friendly and the sense of freedom is amazing. Everything has been geared up to get you outside doing things, whether it’s on a bike or foot, and to top it off most of it is free. Free parking, free trails, free castles and free museums. We’re going to miss this place but the road beckons and there’s lots more to see.
    Our next destination for this trip is Valencia and the caves of Saint Joseph but after checking online and booking tickets we’re going to have to wait until Wednesday to visit them which gives us a chance to get to the area and explore a bit first.
    I found a few Airès on park4night that have been set up as a community organisation in really small towns. All are free and most offer water and a dump station. Including the caves of Saint Joseph. I chose one in the small mining town of Ardena that had good reviews, said it was quiet. Once the washing was finished we headed out of the car park turned right onto the one way system, done a U turn at the first roundabout and pointed in the direction of Valencia and promptly came to an abrupt stop as a protest got underway on the next roundabout. We obviously don’t know what it was about but it seemed every farmer on there tractors were protesting about something important and to prove that point they tipped dead of clippings all down the road and across the roundabouts stopping all traffic. It was a nightmare and the police just watched.
    It took us 30 minutes to get going again, and as we were driving out of Roquettes a string of tractors tipping olive clippings behind them were coming on the opposite side of the road and it went in for about a mile.
    Once we got onto the motorway of the AP-7 it was plain sailing. We had 70 miles to go and 60 of them flew past with no hold ups. The AP-7 runs right the way down the west coast and as we neared Valencia we could see the tourist resorts with there high rise hotels looming over the sea in the distance. We wouldn’t be going near them.
    Leaving the motorway we headed into the Valencian mountains, hitting winding roads and passing ancient churches and the remains of castles as we neared our park up in the small mining town of Armena.
    We drove right through Armena on the main drag and as we came out the other side our stop was down a little hill on the right and as we pulled in we could see it was going to be nice.
    We would staying at the Ermita de Santa Christa, or the hermitage of Saint Christa. It’s an ancient church with a font or water source flowing from it and our parking spot is set in amongst the olive groves. It’s beautifully kept and really quiet with a free flowing river next to us. There were already 2 motorhomes here and another one pulled up just after us and now with the 4 of us here it seems full. But we all have our own private space.
    It was now around 2:30pn and after a light lunch we checked out the church which is locked but we could still see inside. Then we checked out the river and headed back to Wanda deciding on what our plan of attack was going to be for tomorrow.
    I checked google maps and there were a few possibilities, including the castle in Armena, some mines which are open to explore and various hikes.
    Ellie didn’t fancy the castle so I said I’d ride to it and check it out so I unloaded the bike, got changed and headed out.
    From the Airè there is a track running all the way through the olive groves that leads to town about a mile away so I took that and was at the town within 10 minutes. I ride through the cobbled streets that were ultra tight even in my bike. We would never be able to get Wanda down these, it felt claustrophobic on my bike. I kept cycling all the time ascending until I came to a lonely track on it’s own at the far end of town that led up to the castle and it looked like a wall of concrete. It was 3/4 mile long and a 13% gradient all the way. Why did they have to build castles up high?
    I was up for the challenge, dropped to my last gear and went for it. It was an ultra killer climb and half way up I felt like I was having an asthma attack and it was that point I realised that covid had probably affected my chest after all. My legs felt fine, my mind was straight, my gearing was good. I just couldn’t breathe and by the time I reached the top I was gasping.
    I took my breath and a couple of photos before making the scary decent down. 13% in a straight line for 3/4 mile is super scary especially with a 180° 20 meter hair pin bend at the bottom and a brick wall.
    From the castle I rode further out, leaving the town and the roads and heading onto gravel tracks through the woods to one of the old mines.
    It was a couple of miles and I found the trail to the mine saying it was another 500 meters and as the sun was beginning to set I started to head back taking a different path. I hadn’t realised how far up I had come and going back a different way I did some crazy descending and crazy speeds over really rough and rocky terrain before finally emerging from the woods back onto tarmac. Then it was just a couple of miles back through the olive groves to Wanda where Ellie had made a dinner of chicken wraps.
    After dinner we sat and watched the darkness take the mountain view before closing the blinds and settling in for the night.
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  • Hiking & Biking in Artana

    29 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We woke up late this morning. 8:30am is late for us but we had a great nights sleep. It was cooler here in the mountains of Valencia and very quiet.
    We had nowhere in particular to be today, we weren’t going to be driving and had planned a hike up to the old mercury mines about 3 miles away, so there was no rush this morning.
    After a couple of Coffees and Ellie having breakfast we packed some drinks in our rucksacks and headed off down the track that I rode yesterday. Through the olive groves and orange plantation. It was very quiet with nobody else about. We passed an old water fountain dedicated to a saint on the way with a little picnic area and then we passed a makeshift shrine to another saint a little further along. Once we got to the end of the olive road we turned left and headed up the unmade gravel tracks into the forest and mountains.
    A couple of mountain bikers passed by, greeting us as they did so but apart from that we had the place to ourselves and we scouted the ground and trees for animals and footprints.
    Around 15 minutes later a mountain biker came towards us and as he passed he said something but not speaking Spanish we didn’t understand him but I had heard the last 2 words he spoke “El Pelegro “, I just couldn’t place where I had heard them so as he passed we said thanks and continued. 10 minutes later just before we got to the trail where the mines were there was a sign in Spanish that said “ Attention- wild boar hunting”. Now I remembered that El Pelegro meant hunting. Ellie didn’t want to risk going further and as 2 gunshots went off very close by we turned around and headed for Wanda. The bangs were incredibly loud echoing off the mountains.
    We got back to Wanda just after 1pm and thought we’d head over to the hermitage restaurant for lunch. There we ordered some sautéed potatoes with bacon and a cheese sauce. We did order 1 each but only 1 meal turned up with 2 forks but it was extremely filling and really tasty.
    After lunch we headed back to Wanda to chill out for a bit and then the locals started pouring into the car park.
    Almost all of the picnic tables were being used and some even brought there own tables and chairs and they were all doing lunch. Some even had tablecloths and at one table it was a birthday party and they balloons, music and singing. It was very sociable.
    Just after 4pm I decided to go for another bike ride up to the mines.
    I donned my cycling gear and loaded my water bottles and set off down the olive track, turned left at the end and then headed up the gravel trails into the mountains. It took me about 20 minutes to reach the trail where the mines were signposted and then I diverted down that trail and into a deep wooded area and the terrain took a nasty incline upwards.
    After around 500 meters of climbing at 15% I came to the old miners houses but I couldn’t find the mine entrance and wasn’t prepared to climb any further so I turned around and headed back to the gravel trail.
    Back on gravel I followed my intended route climbing higher into the mountains before reaching a left hand fork which I took and started rapidly descending. It was a 6% gradient almost all of the way down and once I left the gravel and the road became tarmac I was flying down the hairpins.
    At the bottom I had intended to cut across the olive plantations but these have now been fenced off so I had to come back along the main road. It was quiet so it didn’t really bother me and it was brand new tarmac so again I could get some speed up.
    I got back to Wanda around 5:30pm and was gutted to see another 2 motorhomes had pulled in but as Wanda was blocked in by the locals I guessed we were going to be safe from neighbours.
    Whilst we were having dinner another 2 camper vans turned up and they had trouble finding a flat spot but still our local friends stayed put in there cars with there tables and chairs out so the areas around Wanda have been free of vanlifers so far. My only concern is, that when they leave if a van does turn up late the only free spaces are right next to us now.
    At 7:30pm, with the sun setting the locals left. Everyone seems to be shut in the vans and motorhomes having dinner or watching Tv.
    It had been exhausting day for not having much planned.
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  • Artana to Onda

    30 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    At midnight last night some kids passed down the olive grove track and were screaming and shouting. It went in for ages and I could here them getting closer and closer. I was worried we were going to be in for some confrontation but eventually they passed us all by and we could hear them wandering off and shouting really loud in the distance. Ellie heard them again at 4am but by that time I was well asleep.
    The clocks went back last night so we gained an extra hour in bed and woke up at 7:30am which would have been 8;30 real time, and that extra hour was needed after the commotion of the night.
    We both had a shower first thing and then breakfast and by 10am Wanda was packed up and ready to leave.
    We only had a short journey to take to our next town but first we needed diesel and that turned out to be a right faff.
    The first garage we went to was automated but didn’t have any English instructions which is unusual. To top that off they had 2 pumps at each pump station and they all said Gas A or Gas B. Not diesel or petrol or gazoile as in most garages. After we figured the pump out we realised we could only put in a maximum of €40 which filled us up to just under half. So we settled on that and hoped we put the right fuel in.
    A mile down the road we came to a repsol garage and that was also automated but they do have English instructions. The strange thing was again it just said Gas A or Gas B. We put in €50 this time and luckily the pump readout said Diesel so we had guessed right and now we were almost full.
    We reset the sat Nav and then drove the 3 miles to our next park up in the large town of Onda.
    The park4night reviews had said that this place was quiet and tranquil but first impressions were anything but that but we decided to bite the bullet and stay anyway.
    Onda is a huge town and a huge sporting town with it’s own football pitch, Olympic swimming pool and velodrome. A huge sports complex and a gymnasium. It also played host as the start of stage 7 in the 2019 La Vuelta and every single cycle path through the city is marked up with that fact.
    Driving in, it looked very industrial with warehouses and retail parks all around but as we came in the main roads off of the motorway that was kind of expected. Onda is actually steeped in history going right back to the 10th century with a massive castle, huge church and hundreds of historical streets right in the old part in the town centre. It also has a festival running throughout October called the fear of Onda where there are fairs, street artists and performers, food stalls, arts and crafts and even bull running.
    We parked up around 11:30am and straight away locked up and went for a walk down a a street market we had just passed. We thought there would be food on offer but really it was just toys and Chinese crap so after 20 minutes we headed back to Wanda for some lunch.
    Around 2pm as I was sorting out cycling routes for later in the trip hundreds of fireworks started going off. They lasted for about 20 minutes but we couldn’t see them but they were the loudest fireworks we’d ever heard. Once the fireworks were over all the cars that were parked on the road left and the town suddenly became a lot quieter.
    At 4pm we decided to go for a walk and see where the castle was. We knew it had been closed today but plan on going tomorrow so checking out the route seemed a good idea.
    We headed off down past the sports park and then turned right up a huge high street where all the shops were closed for Sunday except cafes. Before long we came to the old part of the town and continued up a maze of winding streets and narrow allyways which was a complete contrast from where we had just come from. At the top of the Narrow allyways was the castle but it was completely fenced off by the police for the castle of fire display. This was obviously where the fireworks had come from.
    We turned right following a walkway around the castle and then dropped down some steps back into the narrow allyways and then we noticed that every single door and window had a metal gate across it. The streets were super narrow now, with what seemed like coloured streamers hanging from the balconies and some of the streets now had metal barriers across them so you could close some streets off. Then Ellie noticed that the streamers were infact firecrackers and as we rounded a corner we came to the bull enclosure. These were the streets where the bull running takes place and it had happened a couple of days ago. It was fascinating to see the streets and the aftermath.
    We then came to an old church with a highly decorated facade and even it’s doors were metal to protect them from the Bulls horns.
    Slightly disoriented now we decided to head back for Wanda down the rat runs of little streets until we eventually passed through the town square and back into civilisation and major streets. The town is a funny mix of new and old.
    It was now 5pm and we’d had a good walk and knew where to go tomorrow. Back at Wanda we had dinner and listened to a guy beating the biggest drum from a marching band at the local football match. It was annoyingly funny. He was very enthusiastic especially when his team scored a goal.
    At 9:10pm the second lot of fireworks were released from the castle and this time we could see them. It was a spectacular display and once again the bangs were deafening as they ricocheted off the nearby mountains and bounced back and fourth. The whistles sounded very weird as they too bounced around the mountains gradually fading away. It lasted about 10 minutes in total and managed to set off every dog barking within a 20 mile radius and they carried on barking long into the night and the early hours. This place is far from tranquillity the reviews mentioned.
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  • Onda Castile & Artana Mercury Mines

    31 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This morning we were awake at 7:30am thanks to heavy traffic starting to pass, probably on there way to work. We had breakfast and a couple of coffees and then couldn’t do much until after 10am.
    We had plans to visit the castle today and it didn’t open until 10:30am so at 10:10am we packed our bags and took the 1 1/2 mile trek through the busy streets of Onda and up through the historic old town to the castle.
    The castle dates back to the 10th century but over the years it has been home to the moors/Muslims, romans and the Christians. In it’s original condition back in the 10th- 11th century it was called the castle of 300 towers as there was once a tower for every day of the year although this is not the case now. But there are still lots of towers.
    We approached the castle up a steep slope and saw the remains of last nights fireworks scattered all over the access ramp, then we walked over the old drawbridge and through the gates into the castle. We were greeted by a Spanish lady working there asking us our nationality. She was very smiley and told us our visit was free. It still amazes us that these castles have been restored, artefacts are on display, walkways and lighting and information boards have been erected and it costs nothing for people to visit.
    Inside, the grounds of the castle are massive and some parts have faired much better over the years than others. The newest parts being that of the church and school building erected by the monks who lived in the castle in the 1920’s. This is now the castle museum.
    The oldest parts are really just foundations now but you could clearly see the layout of rooms and the old steps and archways were still present. It must have been an ominous sight in it’s glory days high up on the hilltop.
    After our visit to the castle we went back through the old town looking at the old buildings and visiting the ancient town square before heading back to Wanda. Then it was shopping time at Lidl, and this Lidl was huge and well stocked so we managed to do a whole shop and refill the cupboards.
    From Onda I decided we would head back to Artana because atleast we would be able to sleep and it was closer to the caves where we would be heading tomorrow so we pointed Wanda in that direction and drove the 13 miles back to our little park up in the olive groves at the hermitage of Santa Christa.
    We had lunch and then I suggested going for a walk as it was only 2 o clock in the afternoon so we once again packed our bags with drinks and headed off through the olive and orange trees down the olive track scrumping orange’s as we went. They were the sweetest oranges ever.
    At the bottom of the olive track about 2 miles from Wanda we took a left and followed the gravel track up into the mountains to the old mercury mines. It was a steep trek to get to the footpath that led to the mines but finally on our third attempt of getting here we had made it. No hunters this time.
    We headed up the trail for the Mines and the gradient got steeper and steeper, then we came to the old houses that I had visited the other day on my bike.
    We carried on climbing higher and higher and now we were well above the canopy of the tree line and we could see for miles. The path was loose gravel and boulders and is the same path the miners used back in the 1700’s it was treacherous with a sheer drop of the side into the forest below on one side.
    After almost a kilometre of climbing we eventually came to a sign that said galleries with 2 arrows. One further up and one to the side. I chose the one that went up and after another 150 meters of climbing we came to the mines.
    We both expected a couple of holes in the walls with a grate to stop us going any further but these mines were actually open. There were no safety barriers, nothing to stop us entering, no hand rails, no lights.
    We could hardly believe our luck that we had found a real place to explore and as we entered the first mine it just went miles back with passages leading off in all directions.
    We only had our phones for light but I did have my proper camera and set it for 4 second exposures. The place was vast.
    The second mine we went in was even larger and at the entrance there was a ventilation shaft with a rope across it that said danger, Ventilation. We looked down but couldn’t see the bottom. We were 500 meters up so the shaft could be hundreds of meters deep and after throwing a few stones down it, it sounded hundreds of meters deep.
    We followed a path around the shaft and down a tunnel and it opened up into a huge cavern with more tunnels leading from it. As I set the camera up and shone my phone down the cavern we could hear the bats. They sounded like they were whispering to each other.
    Finding the mines and being able to explore them on our own and in our own time was a real wow factor. That’s what makes these trips so special, and today was a really special day. There’s not too many people that have explored a real mine from the 1700’s on there own, and I don’t know that many people that could have made the journey just to get to them.
    We made the even more treacherous journey back down the path taking it slow because one trip or slip could have been fatal and once we had reached the end of the track back onto gravel we headed back for Wanda, it was a 13km trek scrumping more oranges on our way and by the time we got back the sun was setting and we were ready for dinner and settling in for the night. Our planned, not so busy day had been packed with adventure.
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