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- Dag 19
- lördag 21 oktober 2023 14:26
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 322 ft
TysklandSpital Fortified Gateway49°22’15” N 10°10’50” E
Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber

We were up at 8am today and had, had a huge sleep and felt refreshed and raring to go.
We had been looking forward to where we were going today for a long time and had allocated the whole day for it just incase we needed it.
I was still feeling pretty crap about Germany and had told Ellie last night I think I’m done and I’m happy to drive the romantic road but I don’t want any more stops until we leave, except for this one.
The bike mechanic had left a very bad feeling having not fixed my bike and charging me €50 for the pleasure and Germany as a whole seems like England in the fact that if they can charge you for something they will. Car parks here aren’t free and Infact quite expensive unlike other European countries. It’s completely counter productive to charge for car parks because it just stops people going into towns and spending money, especially when we now live in an online world.
We’ve been so lucky to find free overnight parking in Wanda and as we were filling up with fresh water to leave we spoken to a German lady in a Motorhome and she said it’s incredibly rare to have a free Aire nowadays.
We left the Aire at 10am heading south along the romantic road and it was blue skies with white fluffy clouds this morning which automatically put a smile on both our faces as we drove through some very picturesque little villages.
As we came into Rothenburg I passed a big bike shop that had some proper mountain bikes in the window and the names of all the major bike brands. I asked Ellie if she thought I should take my bike in and she said we could try and we left Wanda in Lidl car park and walked back to the shop.
It was a great shop with real mountain bikes, lots of spares and a work station and I spoke to the guy at the counter and he said he could have fixed it but they are to busy today and closed for 1 week from 1pm, but he did tell me where another shop was.
We trundled off walking back down the main road we had just driven up and 1/2 mile later we saw the shop.
This shop was huge and again had proper bikes in, 3 big work stations with mechanics working and it was full of spares. I asked the guy at the counter if he spoke English and he spoke excellent English and I told him the story of me and my bike and he said bring it in and we’ll look at it.
We walked back the 1/2 mile to Wanda and then drove back and took my bike in. Straight away he looked at it and said if you wait a minute these guys will have a look, pointing to the mechanics. I waited and looked around the store admiring the bikes while Ellie waited in Wanda. Then one of the mechanics picked my bike up put it in a hydraulic bike stand and asked me what had happened.
I told him the story and straight away he stripped all the gears off and then got a hanger straightener out and straighten the hanger. That’s the part that holds the derailleur on the back, and the part the old boy at the other shop said he’d done. It was so bent it was unbelievable. Once he’d straightened the hanger he refitted the derailleur and then loosened and removed the gear cable. Within 10 minutes he’d fitted a new gear cable and aligned most of the gears and then spent another 10 minutes fine tuning them. Then he bled my front brake and to make sure everything worked he took it for a ride fine tuning the gears under pressure. Within 45 minutes I had gears and brakes that were better than when I left home. This mechanic loved bikes and loved his job and he did in 20 minutes what would take me half a day. I really wanted to put this guy in Wanda and bring him home but Ellie said I’m not allowed to abduct any Germans.
The bill came to €108 which does seem expensive, that’s £90 but everything over here seems to cost more and he did tell me the prices of everything as he was doing it, the cable was £23, straightening the hanger £15 and bleeding the brakes £10, and he fixed the bike right in front of me so I don’t feel conned. That’s my birthday money gone and it’s not even my birthday yet.
It was now almost midday so we went to a free car outside a school and left Wanda there while we headed into the walled town of Rothenburg.
Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber is a walled town best known for its medieval architecture and probably more famous for its Christmas museum. We were completely blown away at how beautiful the streets were and it’s not just one street, it’s all of them. This place is truly authentic. Timber framed, chocolate box houses along ancient cobbled streets with flowers and hanging ivy draping from them, it really was a spectacle and how we had imagined all German towns would look like for some reason.
We took a slow walk up the main drag looking at all the different shops that sold food, Christmas decorations, medieval armour, shoes, jackets, glassware there was everything and it all looked in keep with it’s surroundings.
Our first buy was a local dish of SchneeBalloon or snowballs in English. These are fried broken pastry wrapped in a flavoured icing. They actually tasted like real butter shortbread coated in a flavoured icing. I had caramel flavour and Ellie had a hazelnut one. They were scrumptious.
After eating we wandered around the whole of Rothenburg looking at all of the tiny little streets and shops and then we went back to the main drag and brought Bratwurst Sausage with sauerkraut in rolls. We have only ever had cold sauerkraut before but this stuff was hot and delicious, finally we had, had some real genuine German food.
At 3pm we headed back to Wanda, via the ramparts of the walled town they seemed to go on forever, by the time we did get back we had walked over 6 miles around Rothenburg and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was going to head back in after 5:30 when the shops had closed to get some photos but I decided against that and opted to drive down a little further to another free park up in the town of Feuchtwangen. This is one of the smaller towns on the Romantic Road but does offer a free Aire but it only has 7 spaces. We arrived at 4pm and there were only 2 spaces left.
We backed in and it seems like a nice Aire next to a park with tennis courts, it’s clean enough but not long after arriving a dog started barking and it’s been barking for the best part of 2 hours so we might need earplugs tonight.
At 6pm Ellie started cooking Pork Chasseur for dinner and it was a well needed meal as we’d just had junk food all day. The rain had just started to fall again although not to hard yet so we closed the curtains and blinds and settled in for the night.Läs mer
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- Dag 20
- söndag 22 oktober 2023 14:50
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 365 ft
TysklandKalvarien-Berg47°47’36” N 10°55’22” E
The Romantic Road Part 2

This morning we were up at 6:30am to the sound of the barking dog in the background. I’d already been laying there for an hour listening to it trying to cover my ears up and ignore it before I gave in and got up.
We had a couple of coffees and then put the bed stuff away and finally at 8am the dog was either let in, shut up if it’s own accord or shot.
Either way it stopped barking and we could have breakfast in peace.
It was a chilly start to the day of just 7°c outside and 11°c inside but the sun was coming up and we already had blue skies and a long day of driving ahead of us and at 9am we left our park up. I still wanted to leave Germany asap and had decided not to stop at any more towns on the Romantic Road but stick to the route as best we could. Ellie had mentioned a couple of days ago that we’d need to do more washing soon so my plan of attack was to stick to the romantic road down as far as Augsburg. There we would take an 18 mile diversion west along the autobahn to some services that had a laundrette.
The road to Augsburg was pretty, with rolling hills and lots of green fields and we passed hundreds of motorhomes heading northbound and we were following 2 more southbound. For the off season this road is still hectic I wouldn’t want to do it in the summer.
Leaving the Romantic Road at Augsburg we got straight onto the autobahn. I had always thought the autobahn was one major motorway in Germany because if you mention Germany to any driver they always say did you go on the autobahn.
It turns out the autobahn is German for motorway so there’s lots and Germany doesn’t actually have any speed limits unless stated. Even on single track roads you can drive as fast as you like. Unless your a lorry and then your restricted to 40mph in single track highway and 60 mph on motorways and duel carriageways.
Once on the autobahn I set the cruise control to 62mph and just sat in the right hand (slow) lane moving to the middle to pass Lorry’s if I needed. We quickly realised that the far left (fast) lane was mainly for BMW, Mercedes and Audi drivers who were in a mega hurry going to put a fire out. The speed of some of them was unbelievable. Occasionally we’d see a different make of car in the fast lane closely followed by a BMW almost pushing it out of the way. For a Sunday the roads were crazy busy.
18 miles later we exited the autobahn at some crazy services were there was a huge truck stop, a McDonalds and a massive shell garage. I say crazy because there was hundreds of parking bays but to get to them we had to pay which we weren’t willing to do.
At the back of the petrol station we found the self service laundrette, put in our dirty washing and then drove to a small piece of gravelled wasteland and parked up. Then we had Wanda toasties for lunch and after that we then put the washing in the dryer for 40 mins and located a tap and topped our fresh water up free of charge.
With the washing done we set back off down the autobahn for the 18 mile journey back to Augsburg where we left, and then we rejoined the romantic road heading south towards Fussen.
Fussen is the last stop on the romantic Road but unfortunately there are no free park ups so we wouldn’t be going there today, but in a small village on route called Peiting just before Fussen, I found a lovely little place that was free for 5 motorhomes next to a park that has walking and bike trails and that was our stop for the night.
We arrived in Peiting just after 3pm and we’d had a productive day getting the washing done. There was nowhere else on the route I felt like I wanted to stop and Ellie said the same. All in all the romantic road is pretty uninspiring and well overhyped. So far we’ve been lucky and not paid for a single camp on route but if we had paid the going rate of €15 over the past 21 days we would be significantly poorer and free park ups were hard to find.
We got the last Motorhome space in Peiting and parked inbetween 2 sliding door camper vans. It is a lovely spot with cows in a field behind us all with bells on, a footpath leading off into the distance and a gravel cycle path leading off in another direction.
We set Wanda up, flicked the switch over to the leisure battery, put the fridge on gas and then put the kettle on. While Ellie made tea and coffee I checked my app for a decent biking route and I found one.
I quickly drank my coffee, got changed and then took my bike off the back. Once the GPS was loaded with the route I set off. This was my first ride since Abdullah in the bike shop had repaired my gears and straight away I noticed the difference. I would even say they are the best they have ever been, just a tap on the lever and the gear change is as smooth as a hot knife through butter.
I had a lovely ride, all of it on cyclepaths running around a huge reservoir, mainly on gravel tracks and sometimes running in and out of woods and passing small picturesque villages. I had 3 big climbs on route one taking me up a 14% gradient and I even had a race with 2 mountain bikers. They never stood a chance even with my cracked ribs, and I left them struggling to match my speed as I pulled away up an 8% gradient which lasted 800 meters and I never saw them again.
The ride was predicted to take me 2.5 hours and I did it in 1.5 and except for the odd twinge when I was heavy breathing I felt pretty good.
I arrived back at Wanda just after 5pm, put my bike back on the back, covered it up and went in beaming. I’d finally had one decent ride in Germany.
Ellie was making dinner of some meatball and chopped tomato concoction that even she didn’t know what it was and once I got changed and then we sat down and had dinner. It was weird.
Once dinner and the washing up was done we both got our pyjamas on and then we settled in for night ready for our last day in Germany tomorrow.Läs mer
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- Dag 21
- måndag 23 oktober 2023 11:43
- ☁️ 13 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 651 ft
TysklandRaut Bach47°33’38” N 10°44’52” E
Neuschwanstein Castle

We were awake at 6am this morning to the sound of the church bells but I didn’t bother getting out of bed until 7am. It was a chilly 9°c in Wanda and just 4°c outside so I lit the gas fire while waiting for the kettle to boil.
Today is our last proper day in Germany and I can’t wait for the road out but we had a dilemma ahead of us in the fact that Austria does not allow wild camping in most areas. In fact it’s a €220 fine for each person so we’re not going to be able to wild camp and camp sites are extortionate and we only have one thing to tick off our Austrian list and it would be ideal if we could just do that and drive straight through and into Italy. But in order to do that we are going to need to go through Austria with a full tank of fresh water and empty toilet and grey water because we don’t know when our next water station will be.
Just after 9am I started Wanda and programmed today’s destination into the sat nav. Whilst doing that the campervan Parker next to us through some liquid out of there side window and then a lady moved into the driving seat. She looked over and made eye contact so I smiled and waved and she promptly gave me the finger and shouted something through her closed window.
We couldn’t work out what her problem was, I did wonder if it was because I looked across at her van but she was staring straight at us so I thought the polite thing to do was acknowledge her. Obviously not. She was an angry little German.
We’ve also noticed that Germans like to stare and they will hold that stare and not even acknowledge you. More than once we thought we had grown second heads.
We left the park up and the angry German and went straight to Lidl to stock up on fresh food so we don’t have to shop in Austria and then we headed 20 miles down the road to the German/Austrian border and the lower car park of the Neuschwanstein Castle.
Parking here cost €1 per hour or €3 for 4 hours or €5 for the whole day. We chose the €3 option and here we did already have a splendid view of the castle but I had seen a panoramic viewpoint on google and that’s where I wanted to get to.
We left Wanda at 12pm, Ellie had the camelpack with the water and I had my small rucksack with my camera, 3 different lenses and some junk food to keep us going. I knew we had a heck of a hike ahead of us and mentioned it before we left England when I was planning the route. Mentioned it yesterday when showing Ellie the pictures of where we were going and I mentioned it as I brought the route up on my phone. Giving Ellie every opportunity to bail out.
We set off down the car park and onto a gravel track that led into some woods. It was just a 4.5km hike to get there this way that’s 2.7 miles in English. After the first 500 meters the track started to ramp up and then we came to a track that cut up a bank and the gradient was 15% and we had to pull ourselves up using the trees and even jump over a stream.
When we came out of the woods we were on a gravel road with lots of people walking up and down and Ellie said “ is this the way now?” I said “ no, we’re going up there “ and pointed to another track opposite and we started going up. It went up and up, steeper and steeper and we were pulling ourselves up all the way with Ellie swearing at me asking why we couldn’t take the road way. I pointed out that, that way is 2 miles longer and almost as steep. Then we passed a girl and boy coming down so that put Ellie’s theory of this isn’t a real trail to bed.
The gradient went up to 20%, Ellie kept stopping to catch her breath and I just pushed on trying to get out of earshot. Then we popped out on to another gravel road and there were loads of people milling around and on the road above us were buses shipping in the Chinese.
Once Ellie reached the road we stopped for a minute to let her catch her breath which was a silly mistake because as we started moving again we were now mixed in with the 2 coach loads of Chinese that had just got here, which meant that now there was around 300 people all heading to the same place as us to get the same shot.
We ran with the gaggle of people up a very thin mountain trail that was just wide enough for 1 person. Unfortunately the people coming back down didn’t care about that and just kept marching in through no matter what, even when we pulled ourselves onto the steep bank to let them pass nobody said thank you.
Finally we came to our first stop, a bridge that crosses the gorge and from that bridge is the panoramic view of the castle. Here there were railings up guiding us onto the bridge on the right and off on the left and there was also a digital counter counting how many people were on the bridge. We assumed that once it reached a certain number somebody would stop people but the bridge was now unmanned and the count was upto 101 and rising before we got on it.
Just as we were getting in a few of the Chinese pushed past us. It’s the same wherever we’ve been in the world they need to get there first and get there selfies like the thing we are all queuing up to see might move or disappear even though it’s been there for hundreds if not thousands of years. The worse thing was people were getting on the bridge and instantly getting their phones and cameras out and taking a picture there. The other end of the bridge was practically empty.
We pushed through to the other side and got the photos we wanted and then carried on walking. We picked up another trail and carried on up the 20% gradient much to Ellie’s disgust to a higher viewpoint where very few people ventured. Here we sat down perched right on the edge of the mountainside and opened my rucksack and got out the junk food and then we were joined by a German couple who sat right behind Ellie. They never spoke to us, never said hello or even acknowledged we were there and obviously had no idea what personal space is. We deliberately moved ourselves off the trail to be on our own. It was weird.
After eating we then made the trek back down and getting back to the bridge it was practically empty waiting for the next bus load to come in.
We grabbed some more shots as we had a bit more time and room and then we made our way back to the gravel roadway where the buses were coming back in.
For the return journey I said we’d go back down the road and yes it was longer but it was all downhill and Ellie didn’t moan once.
We finally got back to Wanda at 3:30pm and had hiked 6.5 miles and climbed 350 meters most of it at 20%.
Back in Wanda we made tea and now we had to deal with our dilemma I mentioned earlier and we decided to head back to the same park up as last night and hope that the angry German had gone and then go further back to the next village in the morning for fresh water and cleaning everything off before heading into Austria. That way we can both have showers tonight and use up what water we have without having to worry.
We arrived back at our park up at 4:30pm and there was no sign of the angry German lady who had given me the finger this morning thankfully and we pulled into the very end space and we’re later joined by another campervan.
At 6:30pm we had dinner of chicken and mushroom wraps which filled us up and then we both took showers using up the bulk of the water. Then we put the TV on and settled in for the night.
At 10pm just as we were about to turn the tv off and go to sleep a car pulled up next to us. The driver sat there for a while looking at his phone and then the car went black inside and he just sat there. I sat in Wandas driving seat in the dark keeping an eye on him but he didn’t move so I started setting the bed up. Then I heard a car door go and peaked behind the curtain to see the male driver wandering down the park up towards the footpath at the bottom. I just thought he’s leaving his car there and going to visit someone and finished setting the bed up.
We got in bed only to hear the car door go again and then the engine start.
Great, I thought, he’s going but instead he turned his car around and drove it in to the space next to us, turned the engine off and then sat there for another 5 minutes before getting out and going for another walk to the footpath.
Instantly Ellie was wondering if this was a dogging spot and why she thought I’d know what dogging behaviour looks like is beyond me. Then the guy came back, got in the back seats put a jacket in the window and laid down.
I said to Ellie “ I think he’s sleeping in the car”.
By now it was nearly 11pm and I did hear the car door go again a couple of times in the night and each time I got up to check what was happening. Sleeping here tonight was going to be a nightmare.Läs mer
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- Dag 22
- tisdag 24 oktober 2023 11:46
- 🌧 13 °C
- Höjd över havet: 3 245 ft
österrikeEhrenberger Klause47°27’52” N 10°43’5” E
Highline 179 & Fort Claudia

Neither of us had a great nights sleep which was a pain as we had a big day ahead of us and we were both up at 7:30am drinking coffee when the local maintenance team turned up and started strimming the grass behind us. It was a hell of a noise and how the guy next to us stayed in his car asleep I’ll never know.
At 8am we put the bed away and Ellie had a shower using up the last of the water and then we both got dressed and had breakfast.
Once everything was clean and put away, at 8:45am we were on the road and headed first back to the Lidl supermarket we went to yesterday for extra fruit juice and frozen fruit and then went back 2 miles to the next village where there was a paid Aire, but we could get water and drain the toilet and grey waste.
By 9:30am we were back on route as we headed back down the final stretch of the romantic road, passed Neuschwanstein castle and through Fussen. There we picked up Highway 179 and left Germany and entered our 6th country of this trip, Austria.
We weren’t in Austria long before we came to our first and only stop here and we arrived at Highline 179 at 10:40am.
Highline 179 is a huge suspension bridge spanning 450 meters across a gorge with a fort at the bottom that is now a museum and the ticket office and a castle/fort at either side 374 feet up. We parked almost directly underneath the suspension bridge and it looked daunting and now we were actually going to pay to walk across it.
Our first stop was a ticket machine that I had to translate using google translate to get our tickets and here we had a choice of either walking up the 15% gradient to the first castle or getting the cable car. We chose to walk because we’re on a budget and it took us 20 minutes to hike to the entrance of the suspension bridge. We took a few photos of the bridge first as we’d have to scan our tickets to get through unmanned barriers and we didn’t want to go across the bridge just yet.
I’ll be honest, I wasn’t feeling happy about walking across it atall.
Before entering the bridge we climbed a little further up the mountainside to the remains of the castle ruins of Ehrenburg on this side of the bridge. It was amazing to walk around and here most of the signs were also in English telling us about the different rooms of the castle and its earliest parts date back to the 12th century. It is currently being restored to its former glory which was great to see.
Then we went back down to the entrance of the Highline 179, scanned our tickets and started our 450 meter walk across the longest Tibetan style suspension bridge in the world.
Ellie loved it and video’d most of her walk, I didn’t love it so much and only looked down once and I also only let go of the side once. In the middle where the bridge really sways there is a metal mesh either side to stop you getting blown off.
We walked across when there was roughly 20 other people on it and in the middle it swayed like crazy. I wouldn’t want to do it in summer when it is packed with people.
Making it safety across we now had a short hike to the next ruin of fort Claudia. These remains were part of a bastillion fort and not quite as impressive as what we had just seen but once Fort Ehrenburg is restored they will then restore this one. Once again the signs were in English and the earliest parts of this fort go back as far as the 11th century.
With Fort Claudia done we could have walked back down a hiking path and back to Wanda but the bridge looked a little quieter now so we scanned our tickets and headed back across the expanse. This time the wind was really getting up and I practically ran across.
Ellie said I left her behind but it was every man for himself.
We made our way back down the hill to Wanda, and got there just as the heavens opened up and it started raining. it was now 1:30pm and we’d had a great morning.
Back in Wanda we started looking on park4night for places to sleep it was 140 miles to our next destination and most of it through mountains and I didn’t think we’d make it there by dark so we needed a rest stop on route and found one in the town of Bruneck Brunico in the Dolomites of Italy so we set the sat nav and started the 110 mile journey.
We drove through some of the most Austrian Alpine scenery you could image, but unfortunately it rained all the way so we didn’t bother stopping.
There were beautiful villages, hundreds of little alpine wooden houses and massive backdrops where mountains just disappeared into the clouds. It was a beautiful drive and it’s not that we didn’t want to stop in Austria and see more. It’s the fact that the campsites are crazy expensive and wild camping is illegal.
At 5pm we arrived at our Motorhome park up in Italy, only to find that it was completely closed off because of a fairground. I had to carry in driving as all the parking spots were roped off and I ended up in the smallest tightest little town to drive through and TomTom said I wouldn’t fit and with inches to spare I managed to navigate our way through and back out and then find somewhere to stop to look for another spot.
The second spot we found was also a no go as it was up an unmade track and the third spot we found should have been a car park but it was on grass and what with all the rain I didn’t fancy getting stuck.
Eventually on our 4th attempt I found a lay-by for some hiking trails that’s well out of the town and we arrived at 5:45pm just before it was completely dark.
It’s not very level so this is the first time we’ve used our chocks to level up but it is free and we still haven’t paid for a camp yet.
Straight away Ellie cooked us a lovely, well needed dinner and then with a cup of tea we just sat in the back of Wanda and chilled. This is the longest day of the trip so far and can you believe, we woke up in Germany, Went hiking in Austria and slept in Italy.
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- Dag 23
- onsdag 25 oktober 2023 11:48
- ☁️ 7 °C
- Höjd över havet: 5 128 ft
ItalienSopranessano46°48’18” N 12°1’7” E
Into The Dolomites

We woke up this morning at 7:45am. We’d had a pretty good nights sleep even though we were a little worried about being moved on. After a quick cup of tea we put the bed away and opened the blinds so it looked like we hadn’t slept here, then had another cup of tea whilst Ellie used Atlas Obscura to see if there was anything in the nearby vicinity worth checking out that wasn’t on the list.
After our second cup of tea we got dressed and Ellie had found an unusual place to hike to quite nearby and we programmed that into the sat nav and at 9am we left.
It was a short journey of just 15 miles up the the side of a mountain to get to our first destination and Wanda handled the climbing wonderfully considering we’re fully loaded.
At 10am we came to the parking lot and paid €4 to park for the day and then we set off on a 1.5 mile hike through some woods up a very steep hill for about 200 meters until it plateaued off and then we were on relatively flat ground.
The woods were beautiful, with thick pine trees all around us and it’s obviously a nature area for kids as the trees had hands painted around them encouraging you to hug them. Ellie did that.
Then we came to an area by a stream and there were hundreds of piles of standing stones and in an open area amongst the trees there were stone circles, mini sculptures and even a giant nest in. Of course Ellie sat in that too.
We carried on hiking and as we came out of the woods we were in the clouds and could hardly see a thing. It was unbelievable watching them blow across the landscape and mountains and trees in the background appearing from nowhere and then disappearing again.
Finally after 30 minutes of hiking we came to the place we had found. The Earth Pyriamds of Platten.
These are giant hoodoos and rarely found in nature although we have visited monstrous ones in Bryce Canyon, Utah and even visited some in southern France last year.
These particular Hoodoos, or earth pyriamds started to form at the end of the ice age about 12,000 years ago when glaciers were in this region of Italy. The flowing movement of the glaciers and the high pressure of the ice ground the soft rocks ( sandstone) to powder. All of the hard rock and stone, mainly granite remained intact and eventually settled at the side of the melting glaciers in layers.
Rumours say that these earth pyramids were formed in the year 1812 during a freak thunderstorm that washed away part of the side of the mountain leaving behind the standing structures we see today.
Even though the pyramids were shrouded in clouds they made for a magnificent photo giving an other worldly view, it really was spectacular and we spent a good hour there watching the clouds blown past revealing hidden pyramids and trees in the distance.
We took a slow walk back to Wanda and then we had lunch of Wanda toasties and a cup of tea. We had time to kill today as the next 2 places on our list were temporarily closed and it wasn’t worth heading to the Passo Gaiu today because of the low cloud.
In the end we decided to drive through the mountain passes to Cortina and just stop whenever we wanted and we set our first destination of Fort Tres Sassi, this is an old world war 1 fort used from 1914-1919 and it was next on our list but was temporarily closed but we headed there to park in the car park.
All the way there we were climbing finally topping out at a height of 2168 at the summit of the Valparola Pass. Here we got out took some photos and Ellie met some smiley German campers who told us that we should be alright sleeping anywhere in Italy unless it says no camping which was great to hear.
Then we jumped back in Wanda and headed down the 12% gradient of the Valparola Pass and towards the town of Cortina.
5 miles from Cortina we found a huge car park for the ski lifts that are currently redundant and it was completely empty so at 3:30pm we decided to park up and call it a day.
We are half a mile from the small town of Pocol and that will be my starting point for the most famous climb I’ve ever ridden in real life tomorrow, the Passo Gaiu.
From 3:30pm we pretty much just looked out of the window watching the clouds reveal things that hadn’t been there 5 minutes ago. It’s a bizarre feeling when we know we are completely surrounded by mountains but can barely see any of them most of the time. Some of the taller ones we haven’t seen atall, but we know they are there.
At 5:30pm Ellie made us a great dinner of chicken wraps and then we settled in for the night. The evening was strange as we didn’t really have any sun to speak of today so there was no real sunset and the cloud all around us just got darker and darker gradually erasing our view of everything until it was pitch black.Läs mer
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- Dag 24
- torsdag 26 oktober 2023 09:32
- ☁️ 4 °C
- Höjd över havet: 5 059 ft
ItalienPocol46°31’19” N 12°6’38” E
Passo Giau & The Mouse

We woke up this morning at 7am and today was my birthday and we had a beautiful sunrise that made the mountains turn golden. I’d had a great nights sleep thanks to the sleeping pill I took an hour before bed but last night we realised we had acquired a stowaway in the form of a little mouse living on top of the fridge.
We’d heard it moving the last few nights and when we’ve been in Wanda just chilling in silence, and I initially we thought it was something to do with the flow rate of gas for the fridge but since we had refilled with LPG yesterday and still heard it we had another look at bedtime and spotted him climbing back onto the fridge top. Ellie made a trap out of bottle and baited it with cheese but he didn’t go in there, so today’s priority is finding a mouse trap.
I had plans today and it wasn’t that today was my birthday, that is just how this trip has worked out and my plan today was to climb the Passo Giau. One of the toughest Italian climbs in this region and featured almost every year in the giro de Italia. This is one of my bucket list climbs, and you can climb from 2 directions and I would be attempting it from the village of Pocol.
At 8am I was pretty much ready in my shorts, t-shirt and arm warmers and then I moved Wanda a mile down the road to a car park in Pocol and then I took the bike off the back and started preparing myself for the climb.
At 8:50am I set off, now wearing my leg warmers under my shorts and my windproof jacket aswell, it was a chilly 8°c but the clouds were still high and I had good visibility.
This climb was 11.5km long at an average gradient of 7%. 2 years ago I defiantly couldn’t have done it, last year I climbed bigger but the climb wasn’t famous and I’ve been preparing since January to climb this at a decent rate.
I stopped at the bottom to take a photo of the sign and then I started the climb proper. The first kilometre is either flat or downhill which I was pleased with but then the gradients start with the lowest being 7% and my speed slowed and I started the climb.
I had beautiful views and as I rounded a corner I just kept telling myself to get to the next one.
It was switchback after switchback and the gradient got steeper and steeper ramping up to 12% but it wasn’t the climb that got to me, it was the altitude and at 7km in I had to stop and get my breathing under control. My heart rate was 174bpm, and I knew I couldn’t sustain that.
I stopped for about 3 minutes, just long enough for my heart rate to get down to around 130bpm and take a few photos and then I set off again. I steadied my cadence average 70rpm which I knew I could sustain happily if I could keep my heart rate down.
At 7.5km in I told myself it’s just another 2500 meters and at the 2km to go mark I knew I was going to make it with no more stops.
With 1.5km to go I hard the hardest 500 meters to do at a whopping 14% but my legs felt good and I felt strong in myself and just had to keep a good breathing rhythm going and breath from my diaphragm not my lungs.
Finally I rounded the last bend and I could see the summit, I was going to make it and already felt the sense of accomplishment getting closer and then I came to the top.
I stopped at the summit with the Passo Giau sign to take a selfie of my achievement and then I was approached by a group of polish lads that wanted me to take a picture of them with there Motorhome.
Pictures out of the way it was time to head back to Wanda and as I put my helmet and gloves back in the polish lads started going down in there Motorhome waving at me.
I let them get out of sight first, I knew I would be going faster than them and then I pulled my buff around my neck, zipped my coat up and started.
The first 500 meters were pretty normal and then I came to the 14% section and I stepped in the pedals got into the highest gear and got onto the drop bars tucking my head down and arms in to be as aero as possible as I picked up speed. By the time I got to the next bend I was already doing 55kph and I was hard on the brakes and leaning into the corner at 45kph. As the bends kept coming I was pretty much like this most of the way down, and the great thing about having so many hairpin bends is that I could see there was no traffic and took the dry racing line.
I was rapidly approaching the polish lads in the Motorhome with 5km left to decend and thought I was going to have to poodle behind them, but they looked up at a bend and saw me coming and pulled over and I shot past them at 60kph and as I rounded the next bend I had a straight run downhill. I powered on tucked in and now I was flying down at 70kph. The next bend was just a kink in the road and it was clear and I didn’t even touch the brakes as I carried in flying down, the wind whooshing past was almost deafening and unbelievable cold and I could feel the top of my head freezing.
At the bottom there was a slight climb of 1 km and the poles caught me back up honking and waving as they passed, it took me 1hr and 10 mins to climb the 750m and just 18 minutes to descend all the way back to Wanda. It had been a great ride.
Back at Wanda I loaded my bike back on the back and then Ellie made me coffee and I got changed back into normal clothes.
Once dressed we then drove Wanda up the Passo Giau the same way I had just been and Ellie thought I was mad.
Back at the top I took the drone out and got some photos and then we walked to the Rui Gisla pond reflection which is basically a puddle but if you stand at it right you can get perfect reflections of the Giau mountain.
Back at Wanda it was now 1pm and we still needed a mouse trap of some kind and set off through the ski town of Cortina and out the other side to find a hardware shop.
The first one we found didn’t have one but luckily the second one had a humane trap so the mouse can fall in to a baited trap and we open a sliding door and let him out.
This hardware store was in the town of Valle di Cadore and funnily enough it has the only free aire that we could find in all of Italy so far and that’s where we would be spending the night.
It took us less than 5 minutes to drive from the hardware store to our park up and we were amazed at how beautiful it is. It’s in a nature area with a huge dolomite mountain overlooking us and green fields. It has a place for 5 motorhomes with a free dump station for grey and black water and free water.
Our first port of call was the dump station where Ellie emptied our black and grey waste while I filled up the fresh water then we parked up.
By 7pm we were still the only ones here and it’s fairly quiet except for cars going to the football pitch nearby. It’s a great spot for free and so far we still haven’t paid to sleep anywhere.Läs mer
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- Dela
- Dag 25
- fredag 27 oktober 2023 12:15
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Höjd över havet: 961 ft
ItalienGrotte del Caglieron46°0’29” N 12°19’50” E
Gorges, Waterfalls & Mountains

We had a great nights sleep, alone in the little Motorhome area and woke up at 8sm.
Our plan of attack for today was just to head down to longorone stopping at Vajont Dam for a quick history lesson and then turn East heading towards another free aire I had found and Slovenia.
We weren’t in any real rush this morning so we actually had a slow start and after a breakfast of Wanda Toasties and topping the water off after we had both had showers we were almost ready to leave at 9:30am when I looked on google maps and found a place to explore. It was slightly off route but the longer we spend in Italy camping the cheaper the trip will be so I set the Sat Nav and we drove south, through Longerone and to the town of Breda.
We arrived around 10:30am and as we got out of Wanda we could already hear the sound of water rushing close by and after paying €2 for parking we headed down the road over a little footbridge and to the ticket office of the Caves Caglieron.
It was just €3.50 each for us to get in and luckily for us, even though there were a few other cars in the car park we were actually the first ones here and we had an escort down the path to the gate where a happy little Italian man let us in.
Straight away on our right was a massive cave with a statue of the Madonna inside, this had cave had started to form naturally but had later been carved out and extended. It now had several natural pillars inside making it look and feel like a church. It was amazing how the sunlight naturally lit it up.
Across from this cave was another cave that had a huge locked door on it and in the summer season this is actually a cheese makers and shop.
From there we started what us called the cave loop and we entered a wooden bridge and crossed under a waterfall and then down a set of steps following the natural path of the gorge and waterfalls down. It was an amazing walk with waterfalls rushing either side of us and as we looked further down the boardwalk we were on it actually cut right through and around the side of the gorge. It really looked like a footpath from an Indiana Jones Movie.
I couldn’t believe we had the place to ourselves and every bend we took revealed more amazing scenery and the way the sunlight played of the waterfalls and Rick formations was amazing. We probably could have just spent the day on that little section of bridge watching the waterfalls and light changing.
Back out the other side of the gorge we were back on to a gravel track and making our way back towards the car park. On the way there was one last cave up a set of steep steps cut into the side of the mountainside and here was the cave of the Madonna.
It is another huge cave that is now an actual church and has an alter at the back and two rows of four wooden pews running down the side with a candle arbor at the entrance. It is still used today.
The tour around the caves only took about an hour and back at Wanda is was now 1:30pm and I thought we still had time to do what we had planned for the day so we turned Wanda around and started to head back towards Longerone stopping at a little town on the way to buy some real Italian gelato. I had pistachio and Nutella and Ellie had pistachio and cherry. They were amazing. We also brought 2 mixed gelato wafer sandwiches and put them in the freezer. Then we hit the road again.
We arrived at our next stop at 2:45pm and Ellie was super pleased because this was the Igne Suspension Bridge. This is a beautiful wooden walkway and located in Igne, a hamlet of Longarone. The structure was built in 1973 in memory of local cableway operators, also famous abroad for their ability to transport timber from the most inaccessible places downstream. It is 100 meters long suspended at a height of 125 meters while the Maè stream flows below and a spectacular views of the valley opens up around.
Even though this bridge was far higher but shorter than Highline 179 I didn’t crap my pants so much, probably because I couldn’t actually see the floor we were so high.
After 20 minutes at the bridge we jumped back in Wanda and drove back through Longerone and into the gorges and then started climbing. This was the exact route of the Giro de Italia in 2023 and we were now heading to the Vajont Dam.
Once we had almost reached the summit of the gorges we had to drive through a series of tunnels each of them just 4 meters tall and just wide enough for a lorry so there were traffic light either side. Passing through the tunnels and out the other side we were now level with the top of the dam and made our way to the car park.
This isn’t a normal Dam anymore as the concrete structure of the Vajont Dam remains intact towering of the town of Longerone but there is no longer any water being held back.
On 9 October 1963, engineers saw trees falling and rocks rolling down into the lake where the predicted landslide would take place. Before this, the alarming rate of movement of the landslide had not slowed as a result of lowering the water, although the water had been lowered to what SADE believed was a safe level to contain the displacement wave should a catastrophic landslide occur. With a major landslide now imminent, engineers gathered on top of the dam that evening to witness the tsunami.[citation needed]
At 10:39 pm, a massive 2-kilometre-long (1.1 nmi; 1.2 mi) landslide, with around 260×106 m3 (9,200×106 cu ft) of forest, earth, and rock, fell from the northern flank of Monte Toc into the lake below at up to 110 km/h (31 m/s; 59 kn; 68 mph) (another source gives 25 m/s (90 km/h; 49 kn; 56 mph)[14]), generating a seismic shock. In 20 seconds it reached the water level; by 45 seconds the landslide (now at rest) had completely filled the Vajont reservoir. The impact displaced 115×106 m3 (4,100×106 cu ft) of water in about 25 seconds, 50×106 m3 (1,800×106 cu ft) of which overtopped the dam in a 1⁄4 km-high (250 m; 820 ft) wave.[1][15][4]
The impact with the water generated three waves. One went upwards, reached the houses of Casso, fell back onto the landslide, and went on to dig the basin of the pond of Massalezza. Another headed toward the shores of the lake, and through a washout action of the same, destroyed some localities in the municipality of Erto e Casso. The third (containing about 50×106 m3 (1,800×106 cu ft) of water) climbed over the edge of the dam, which remained intact except for the ring road that led to the left side of the Vajont, and fell into the narrow valley below.
The roughly 50×106 m3 (1,800×106 cu ft) of water that managed to climb over the work reached the stony shore of the Piave Valley and swept up substantial debris, which poured into the southern sector of Longarone and destroyed the town except for the town hall, the houses north of it, and other neighboring towns. The death toll was about 2,000 people
It’s an amazing sight to see how much land actually fell into the lake because now there is no lake and the car park we were now parked in looked across to the Dam one way and the wall of mountainside that collapsed the other.
We returned to Wanda and carried on heading East towards Slovenia and what we thought was going to be our park up for the night in the town of Majano. Unfortunately when we arrived we found a small holding at the side that had lots of cockerels so we looked for another free place and decided to move 20 miles down the road to the town of San Daniele del Friuli and we arrived at 5:30pm and we were knackered.
It was a beautiful free Motorhome area, next to a kids park and green space right on the edge of town and there were several other motorhomes already there. We parked up behind a big Italian Motorhome and decided we were too lazy to cook and after a cup of tea we walked into town and brought a genuine Italian pizza.
We ordered the maxi size that should have been 50cm and the guy made the whole thing from scratch right in front of us spinning the dough around and shaping it on a marble worktop. Then he put the toppings on and put it in the oven. It was actually so big it didn’t fit properly in the box and they had to fold the edges over. It smelt lovely all the way back to Wanda and fortunately for us by the time we got back it had cooled enough to really enjoy it without taking the roofs of our mouths off. We were both unbelievably hungry and actually only left one piece each.
Then as we settled in for the night at 8pm we heard the mouse squeaking. I checked the trap and there he was so we wandered down to the green space away from the motorhomes and let it go.
Back in Wanda we were rearranging the cupboards putting them back together after getting rid of the mouse and a huge lightening and thunder storm broke over head. It sounded so loud as were in a valley and the sound of the thunder just echoes of the mountainsides. Fortunately there wasn’t a lot of rain and at 10:30pm we turned the TV off and settled into bed.Läs mer
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- Dela
- Dag 26
- lördag 28 oktober 2023 11:44
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Höjd över havet: 745 ft
ItalienSan Daniele del Friuli46°9’29” N 13°0’36” E
Exploring the High Streets

We had a great nights sleep not having to worry about what the mouse might be chewing, and woke up at 8am.
We had nothing planned for today and as it was the weekend I wasn’t in any hurry to head over the border to Slovenia because we would be going on hikes in touristy areas so I thought it would be better to wait until during the week when the kids are at school to get there, which left today and tomorrow pretty much free.
At 10:30am after a very lazy start to the day we decided to head into the town Center of San Daniele del Friuli. It wasn’t a very big town and it really didn’t look like it had anything in it except for pizza restaurants and wine shops but since we’ve been in Italy, it has so far exceeded all expections. The people are really friendly, the drivers aren’t all crazy and there is a wow around almost every corner. Also we’ve been so surprised at the amount of free Motorhome areas and wild camping is widely accepted. So now it was time to find out what the high streets of Italy are really like.
We left Wanda and headed back towards the Pizzeria we had found last night and once there we carried on up until we came to the town square, this is where the majority of the shops are.
Unfortunately the first shop I saw was a Gelato shop and promptly stopped outside until Ellie brought us both a double scoop each in a big tub. This time I had biscotti and cheesecake flavour. Ellie had Pistachio and honey and vanilla. We think pistachio flavour is our new favourite but it was all delicious.
From there we headed to a shiny shop that had all sorts of handmade decorations and ornaments for the house. Here we brought our Italian Christmas tree bauble in the shape of a star with a gonk sewn on and Ellie brought a handmade item as a Christmas gift.
We carried on walking through the little Italian street and as we came back to the town square Center there was a huge horn like an air raid siren going off and then all of the church bells rang out. We never did workout what the horn was but the bells were unbelievably loud and lasted for 5 minutes.
I said it was the start of wine time as all of the wine restaurants had started to fill up and it was only 12pm.
From the Center we headed down another side street into our first Italian church which was very Romanesque with its huge marble pillars and marble alters. It was quite something.
After that church, almost next to it was a tiny little church that was also open. This church was built in the 13th Century and to our amazement it had a spectacular Muriel covering the back wall and ceiling. It was an incredible sight and the more we looked the more we saw. The detail was incredibly intricate.
From there we headed down another little side street and back towards the town square where we found an amazing shop where the lady inside made individual one off handmade wooden angels. It was in this shop we made our biggest purchase of the trip as a wedding present for my sister.
Completely spent out we made a dash back to Wanda, and I hoped we wouldn’t pass anymore shiny shops on the way.
We didn’t.
Back in Wanda I set the Sat Nav and we headed to the next town where we stopped at our first Italian Lidl and stocked up on dinner items and copious amounts of Italian sweets for Ben and Leah. I also managed to get a real Italian Tiramisu which was the final thing on my Italian foods to try.
From Lidl we headed 6 miles down the road to the town of Tarcento, here there was a beautiful free aire that overlooks the river torre and had a footpath running right next to the river for hikes.
We arrived here at 3pm and somehow the day had just slipped away. We sat in the back of Wanda and had a cup of tea and I looked on my app to find a decent walk and at 3:30pm we set off down the footpath on a 5 mile hike to find a waterfall.
The river torre seemed to be absolutely gushing past at a hell of a rate and as we neared the town we could see debris and logs that had washed up onto the paths in the recent past. There was also a large section of the footpath that was closed and we had to take a big diversion through the Center of town.
Back on the footpath we came to a small suspension bridge crossing the river and even though we didn’t need to cross it, we walked across to see the river rushing over the top of a massive weir. It really was an incredible force of nature.
We carried on walking up a gentle slope and onto the streets passing by all the Italian homes. Anyone that was outside always greeted us.
Finally we came to a wooded area and a small unmade footpath, we could hear the waterfall rushing in the distance and followed the directions down the side of the a big hill towards the river.
Back at ground level the path had been washed away completely and all that remained were piles of dead logs and debris. We couldn’t get past and even if we could one wrong move and we’d have been taken downstream.
We climbed back up the hill to the footpath and then continued along the footpath as far as we could. Here we could see the waterfall and it actually turned out to be controlled by a hydraulic dam that had recently been opened, hence all the recent flooding and remaining debris.
We took a few photos and even though it wasn’t what we thought we were hiking too it was still an amazing sight and we’d had a good walk.
We started to head back towards Wanda, stopping to pet a very friendly cat on the way and when we reached the town we walked right through the centre. Fortunately it was now 5pm and all of the shiny shops were closed. We knew it was 5pm because the Bells from all 6 churches started ringing at once and lasted 5 minutes. It was so loud we couldn’t hear each other.
The bells done the same again at 6pm and every 15 minutes after until 7pm. From 7pm they just rang for 1 minute every hour.
Our Motorhome spot might seem tranquil but I don’t know if we’ll actually get any sleep. The Italians love church bells more than the French and Spanish put together.
Back in Wanda, at 6:30pm we had pasta for dinner and then as we have access to free water I decided to have a shower and then we settled in for the night, hoping the church bells will stop at 10pm.Läs mer
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- Dela
- Dag 27
- söndag 29 oktober 2023 14:24
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 139 ft
ItalienMonteaperta46°16’34” N 13°18’6” E
Resting & Riding

We had a lovely nights sleep. I’m not sure what time the bells stopped but they did stop before 10pm and we fell asleep listening to the sound of the rushing water of the river torre behind us.
We were grateful for our lay in as the clocks went back last night and we woke up at 8:20am which was really 7:20am. Then at 7:30am the bells started again and they rang out for 5 minutes. Then again at 7:45am and again at 8:15am. I’m not sure how you tell the time in this town.
We had nothing atall planned for today except just chill out and wait for the day to pass so we could head into Slovenia tomorrow but by 11am we were both restless so I suggested getting the washing done and then moving closer to the border.
We found a laundrette just 5 minutes away that had good parking out the front so we loaded the washing bag up and headed straight there. It was actually quite busy when we arrived so we had to wait 10 minutes for a machine to become free and then we had a nightmare trying to pay for the load. In the end a lovely Italian lady helped us and we got the machine working then she showed us that we could actually change the language. To be fair she didn’t realise that until she pressed all the buttons, but now we and everyonelse in the laundrette knows how to change the language.
It took almost 90 minutes to wash and dry all the clothes and once it was done I searched for the coordinates of our next park up and we headed off for the six mile drive.
We were heading for the Grotte di Villanova. Here there was a free park up with water and a dump station and it’s our last free stop before heading over the border into Slovenia. To get there Wanda had to climb from ground level upto 1500 meters which I didn’t realise until we were on the slopes and once we were on them it was a climb of 5 miles at a maximum gradient of 15%. I mentioned how steep it was going up and at the summit it said Alto de Tanaraune. This was a proper climb and I said it must be a real killer on a bike because there were absolutely no flat sections.
Finally at the top it was just a 2 minute drive to the car park and the Motorhome section had just one Motorhome in it and we parked next to it. Then Ellie made lunch of Wanda toasties with salami in and we both had a cup of tea. It was now just 1:30pm so I started looking for a local bike ride. All of the rides were over 100 km with over 1000m of climbing and they all involved climbing up the hill we had just driven up which I didn’t fancy, so I plotted my own route of 30km in a circle making sure I didn’t put in that huge climb.
It was now raining quite heavily but I have wet gear with me and decided just to wear my fluorescent rain jacket and my normal shorts and legs warmers with my neoprene shoe covers. It certainly wasn’t cold enough for my winter kit.
At 2pm I set off. The beginning of the route was mainly downhill but there were so many leaves on the road and so many hairpins I only just touched 55kph. Once on the flat section at the bottom I managed to hold a steady 50kph. The road was empty, I was next to a rushing river, I had beautiful scenery and I was loving it even though it was still raining. As I left the path of the river I entered a little village cutting through the back lanes. I had done 20km in less than 30 minutes and knew I had just 8km left but most of that was uphill. As I came out of the village onto the main road I recognised it as the road we had just driven along. Then there was a tight right hairpin bend and I knew that I had somehow stupidly plotted the route we had just driven up. The pass of the Alto de Tanaraune. I stopped here and took my jacket off and stuffed it in my bike bag. I now had the choice of either completing this climb or turning back the way I came. Carrying on would be a shorter, sharper climb and turning around would mean a much longer but less steep climb.
I felt pretty good and thought if I could climb the Passo Gaiu I could do this and I pushed off, clipped in and started peddling. I made it my goal to not hit my lowest gear and just keep peddling and once I got to the slopes they didn’t ever get lower than 7%.
My legs felt good, and my mind was in the right place to complete this climb but by the end of the first kilometre my breathing was all over the place and as I hit a 10% gradient I held my breath and pushed on.
It sounds crazy but now understanding how breathing works I knew I was hyperventilating. I was taking in to much oxygen. Holding my breath meant I stopped taking air in allowing my body to use what it already had in it and allowing Carbon dioxide to build up slowing my heart rate.
After 10 seconds my I felt my heart stop pounding. I started to breath again using my diaphragm rather than my lungs. This pulls air into the bottom of my lungs and I could feel my heart rate falling still. I pushed on accelerating a little and now I was actually comfortable and I settled in to a good pace.
I watched the numbers falling on the gps as the kilometres ticked by and I plodded on feeling strong. With just 2 kilometres left I knew I could do this climb and I was hardly breaking a sweat and I hadn’t had to stop. In the last kilometre the gradient ramped upto 15% and I dropped down to my lowest gear keeping the same cadence and then the slope started to decrease and I moved up 2 gears and increased my power and my speed.
My app and GPS said I should have completed the ride in 90 minutes and I actually did it in 70. I was super pleased with myself and once back at Wanda I checked the stats. Out of 2800 people that have climbed the Alto de Tanaraune I was number 400. Not bad for someone that trains indoors and lives in one of the flattest parts of the UK.
Back at Wanda it was seriously heavy rain now and I was soaked to the skin and once changed I had a cup of tea and Ellie sat listening to her podcast until 5:30pm.
At 6pm we had burgers for dinner which were really good and then with no internet for the night we settled in to watch DVD’s until bedtime.Läs mer
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- Dela
- Dag 28
- måndag 30 oktober 2023 11:31
- 🌧 16 °C
- Höjd över havet: 725 ft
SlovenienZatolmin46°11’30” N 13°44’1” E
From Italy to Tolmin Gorge

We woke up at 7:30am to the sound of lots of church bells. I didn’t mind as I’d already been awake for 30 minutes debating whether or not to get up, and it’s better than being woken up by barking dogs.
By 8:30am we were pretty much ready to leave put everything away in Wanda ready for the journey. Then I set the sat nav and we left.
According to TomTom it was just a 36 mile journey to our next stop but it would take the best part of 2 hours.
Leaving Italy the rain was unbelievable and the water just ran across the road in streams. We were already up at 1500 meters of elevation when we were parked and for the next 45 minutes we just climbed and climbed and roads that were rain soaked and covered in the autumn fall.
Then we had to start descending into Slovenia and we were in second gear for the next 20 minutes. Rivers of water gushed down the roads and off the switchbacks and parts of the roads were completely washed away. Then just as we entered Slovenia we started climbing again but fortunately although the roads had suddenly gotten a lot worse they had a lot more grip. Probably because the tarmac had been completely washed off.
The rain just got heavier and I did debate whether or not to even come into Slovenia today but we thought we’d risk it and hoped that the whether would ease off. It didn’t ease off and we finally reached our first location in Slovinia at 11am and we’d hardly gone over 25mph all the way here.
While the rain hammered down on Wanda we had brunch of cereal and Wanda toasties and then with the rain not showing any signs of stopping we put on our waterproofs and Wellie boots and wrapped my camera gear in plastic bags before putting it in a rucksack and leaving.
We had parked in P1 for Tomlin Gorges the Motorhome parking area free of charge and had a 1/2 mile walk to the entrance and by the time we got there, the rucksack was soaked completely through and although we were in our waterproofs we were soaked with sweat because it was still 15°c outside.
We paid the entrance fee of €5 each to a lovely lady in the ticket kiosk who looked very bored and then we entered through an electronic gate. Straight away we went down some stone steps and we were next to a beautiful river. On a normal day this river is turquoise but because of all the rain it was now a very pale blue but still beautiful.
We headed over a wooden bridge taking photos and then we came to a tunnel that was dimly lit and went up with steps in. When we came out we were at a huge natural crack in the gorge with water gushing through and an underwater cave with thermal springs in. The steam rising up from the thermal springs and being washed down stream by the river against the massive grey and green gorge sides made it look like something from Jurassic park.
As I was taking photos the rain suddenly stopped and I couldn’t believe it. We were the only ones here and we had the best view in the house.
From this gorge we went back through the tunnels and crossed 2 more bridges. The sound of the water rushing underneath was deafening. Apparently on the Friday just gone they had, had to close the gorge to visitors so that should give you a sense of just how much water is coming through here now.
After the bridges we climb up a mountain of stone steps and came to another crack in the gorge with a huge boulder wedged half way down. I couldn’t really get low enough to get a decent picture so we carried on up and out of the gorge.
Coming out of the electronic gate at the top to get back to the ticket office we had to walk along the road and cross the devils bridge. This bridge was built in 1912 by loggers and was originally used by the villagers to get to town. This was also used in the 2023 cycle race tour of Slovinia, it’s a beautiful stretch of road.
By the time we had got back to Wanda we had walked over 5 miles and just as we got in and closed the door the rain started helling it down again. We had been so lucky.
We stripped off our wet stuff and hung it in the bathroom and then I spotted a tap outside and decided to get some fresh water. It was the slowest tap in the world and I got absolutely soaked to the skin while refilling the water and got back into Wanda took all my clothes off and put my night clothes on then I set the sat nav to find our park up.
For the past 2 weeks we’ve been looking at places to stay in Slovinia and it seemed expensive but we were prepared to pay as we haven’t spent anything on park ups as yet.
It just happened that as I looked to on the map to see how far away our next stop was that I found an equestrian Center that has a free Motorhome park up and it’s on route.
We left Tomlin Gorges at 2pm and arrived at our park up at 3:30pm and it’s beautiful.
We are on a huge park up next to a French campervan and we’re surrounded by mountains and we haven’t been on a road in Slovinia that hasn’t had a river running next to it yet. It really is a beautiful area and so far a beautiful country, even in the rain.
The rain is supposed to get much heavier tonight and there’s storm warnings but this park up is much higher than the river and we’re well away from any mountainsides so there’s no chance of a landslide or being flooded out overnight. We feel safe here and wild camping in Slovinia is illegal this park up is a super lucky find and night 27 of not paying.
We had an early dinner at 4:30pm then we both got into our nightstuff and closed the blinds to settle in for the night as the rain continued to fall getting heavier all the time.Läs mer
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- Dag 29
- tisdag 31 oktober 2023 14:04
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 972 ft
SlovenienPlanina45°49’1” N 14°15’48” E
The Alpine Wall Bunker

We were awake at 7:30am listening to the rain beating down on Wanda. It had rained most of the night and we’d even had thunder and lightning. I thought it was great but apparently it had kept Ellie awake most of the night.
We weren’t in any particular hurry today as I’d pretty much written the day off and by 10am we’d put the bed away got dressed and we were already bored so I suggested a drive into the local town which was just a mile away.
I tried googling what was about in town and obviously most things came up in Slovenien so we didn’t understand them but it didn’t look like it was offering alot in the form of shops and to top it off today was a public holiday.
We found a free car park in Ziri that had space for a few hundred vehicles that had just 5 in it. Things didn’t look promising for anything being open. Then we locked Wanda up and walked up what looked to be the main road. We passed a shoe shop, a clothing store and then saw a couple of ski shops but everything was closed and it didn’t look like the kind of town you could just mooch around anyway so we turned around and headed the other way.
At the crossroads where we came into the town there was a large spar supermarket which was open but we didn’t bother going in and then Ellie saw a bank and drew some cash out for emergencies. Next to the bank was a bar called the stab bar. We wouldn’t be stopping there. Then we spotted an open bakery and a local bakery is one of the best places to try local food so we went in there and I brought a big slice of Burek which is a light pastry, this was filo pastry stuffed with meat or potatoes. It’s an Eastern European and Asian dish often served with coffee for breakfast. It was really tasty and really filling.
Ellie had a heart shaped savoury pastry with melted cheese and tomato and a piece of strudel.
Back at Wanda it was now 11am and the rain had stopped although it was still murky and very wet so we decided we would head to the nearest local city of Ljubljana to have a look at what real Slovinia was like.
I was abit dubious about finding a parking space although Patk4night said there was one just 10 minutes walk away from the city Center and just 2 miles into the journey the clouds broke and sunshine and blue skies shone through and we turned back around and headed back for our parking spot we had last night.
We decided to empty the toilet and top up with fresh water and then continue our original journey and head further down Slovinia and I programmed the sat nav for our next stop on route. The Alpine Wall Bunker.
It was just a 20 mile 45 minute journey to the area of Planina. Here there are a massive set of cave systems called the Planina Cave and various abandoned buildings. The Alpine Wall bunker where we were heading definatly isn’t on the tourist map. Infact it’s not on any map.
We drove through the village of Planina and out the other side and then turned onto gravel tracks and drove through some woods. This was a road only used by locals and also isn’t on the maps as a road.
We drove 1.5 miles on the gravel tracks taking a turn to the right and heading down and then we came to a space where we could park, so we turned Wanda off and I grabbed my phone and camera gear and we jumped out.
The Alpine Wall bunker was a series of forts strategically placed across the Alpine passes of what was Yugoslavia during the time of Mussolini and it stretched for over 1800 Kilometers. Most the forts were built between 1911-1914 before the First World War and at the beginning of WW1 were taken over and occupied by the Italians as this part of Slovinia was actually the Italian border at the time.
Most of the forts have since been destroyed and shut down. A few along the bottom of Slovinia on the Croatian border are open to the public as museums but this one in Planina has been forgotten and left and entry can be gained if you’re brave enough.
Leaving Wanda we joined a footpath and at the beginning of it I looked to my left and there was a huge crater and 400ft deep and running of the side of the footpath down into the crater there was a little trail. I told Ellie to wait while I went down first on my hands and butt and then I saw the entrance to the bunker in the side of the cliff. I called Ellie and she came down to and we both made our way down to a concrete platform jutting out from the side of the cliff 400ft from the floor. Here we found an open arched doorway about 5ft high. The entrance was flooded with all the rain but after that it was dry but it was pitch black.
We both put our head torches on and then used some old bricks to stand on to get past the flooded section and then we were in a tunnel that was shoulder width across and so long we couldn’t see the end.
We started walking and after about 100 meters deep into the mountain we came to a junction. Both left and right was just never ending blackness. We turned left and another 200 meters in we started coming across rooms that were probably the sleeping quarters of the soldiers. We carried on another hundred meters and found steps that went down leading to other rooms off the side. It was beyond dark and all we could hear was dripping water leaking through parts of the roof but Ellie thought she could hear footsteps following her. After another hundred meters the tunnel started heading down and the water that had been dripping through the ceiling was starting to collect so we turned around and headed back the way we came to the junction. It took us 25 minutes to get there walking at a normal pace.
Back at the junction we decided to continue into the darkness and this tunnel had more rooms leading off it and they were bigger and some even had steps going down leading to rooms that went under the main tunnel we were walking on. Then the tunnel started to go down at quite a steep rate, I was surprised there was no water collecting and we continued along in the dark for a good 200 meters until we came to a set of concrete steps that went up so high we couldn’t see the top. We climbed and climbed and I thought that we had found another way out but at the top the tunnels just went on and for hundreds more meters.
Eventually the tunnel got lower in height to about 4 foot and I could feel fresh air coming in and we came to an opening that overlooked the huge crater with a 400ft drop. There were no bars or barriers to stop us falling.
We turned around and headed back the way we came, down all the steps, past all the rooms and Ellie really didn’t like it. Eventually we came to another door way that led us out into the woods next to the gravel track we had driven in on.
We had been underground for well over an hour and walked over 2 kilometres, it was crazy.
It took us another 15 minutes to get back to Wanda and just as we did the rain started falling again. We’d had another lucky escape, although it wouldn’t have mattered that much as we were underground.
It was now 3pm and our final stop of the day was just around the corner and I set the Sat Nav again and we left the Alpine Wall Bunker.Läs mer
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- Dag 29
- tisdag 31 oktober 2023 14:53
- 🌧 12 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 480 ft
SlovenienPlanina45°49’37” N 14°15’51” E
Grad Haasburg

Our next location was just 4 miles away and it took us just 25 minutes to arrive at the remains of the old castle called Grad Haasburg . It was still raining when we first arrived but Ellie jumped straight out to go and see the 5 goats that were in the field behind us and the 2 horses that were in another field next door. I waited in Wanda until the rain stopped.
We were parked on some gravel that made a makeshift car park for the remains of what was once a beautiful castle.
The Hošperk (Haasberg) castle was built by the Eggenberg princes at the beginning of the 17th century, at the foot of an old medieval castle that was destroyed by an earthquake. At that time, the manor was considered the mightiest baroque manor in Slovenia. It was famous for its rich interior and a beautiful park, which is unfortunately only partially preserved today.
The last owner of the manor was the Windischgrätz family, who bought it in 1846. During the Second World War, the nobles emigrated to Italy, and the castle was first inhabited by the Italian army, then by the German army, and in 1944, it was burned down. The valuable interior furnishings, the family archive and the family tomb of the last owners, the Windischgrätz, were completely destroyed.
Just across the road from the castle, adjacent to the car park is another building, where the goats are, that used to be the stables of the castle and the back of the building is now a free museum with artefacts that were saved from Grad Haasburg before it was destroyed. It is a tiny one room museum with hundreds of old photos of the original building and lots of wooden items, like sledges, and rocking horses that were probably stored in the stables originally which is why they weren’t destroyed. There was even an old canoe.
Haasburg itself is a tiny little village that resembles hobbition from lord of the rings, it’s very green with little streams running through and a swing hanging from a tree and there’s even some hobbit houses cut into the ground. It’s a beautiful place.
After checking park4night and seeing that other people had stayed here with no bother we decided we’d risk it and around 5:30pm we were joined by a French family who pulled up next to us in there pick up truck with a wooden tiny house on the back. It was very original.
Just as it got dark they knocked on the door for trick or treat with there little girl and Ellie gave them some of the kids sweets and we found out that the man had built the tiny house himself and they were on the road full time. This was there 4th year.
After dinner we sat and chilled out as the rain slowly stopped outside and all we were left with was the sounds of drips until bedtime.Läs mer
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- Dag 30
- onsdag 1 november 2023 11:42
- Höjd över havet: 1 670 ft
SlovenienBukovje45°48’56” N 14°7’39” E
Predjama Castle & Back to Italy

We had a great nights sleep. The rain finally stopped around 10pm and the cloud cleared and for the first time on this trip we actually saw the stars out.
We woke up at 7:30am and because of the lack of cloud cover it was a chilly 7°c outside. I had planned a bike ride that was on one of the notice boards called the castle route but I didn’t feel like getting the bike off or stretching my legs in the freezing temperatures so after coffee we both got dressed and then Ellie went to see the donkeys and the goats and at 9am we were ready to leave.
Our first stop of the day was the next town called Planina. We were hoping more shops would be open but today is actually another bank holiday in Slovinia, All Saints’ Day, and everything was closed except for petrol stations and bakeries so we ended up going into a bakery and getting more burek that was filled with meat and and apple strudel. Then we headed back to Wanda.
Back at Wanda we ate our fresh food and had a cup of tea. It was now 10:30am and we had one more stop in Slovinia and it was just a six mile drive away.
Getting into the car park for Predjama Castle was a nightmare. There were actually 3 car parks. One directly outside the castle that was for coaches and 2 down a very steep hill. The one half way down was for cars and the one at the very bottom was for cars and motorhomes. The entrance to the car park was right on the very bottom of the hill and the entrance was situated to the right at a 100 degree angle with barriers right at the entrance. Even with Wanda on full lock I couldn’t make the turn and the lady at the barriers watched as I had to put the handbrake on find the biting point in reverse and adjust the angle we went in at. To top it off there was a post on the right hand side and I was about 2 inches away from ripping the side off of Wanda. Whoever thought this was a good idea for motorhomes obviously doesn’t drive a big car.
Finally we got in and the parking fees were an astronomical $3 an hour. Luckily I was only here for an outside picture in a certain place.
We left Wanda and hiked up the gravel track out of the car park feeding a cat on route with some of the salami sausages I got from Germany. He enjoyed them.
Finally we were at the entrance and I saw the spot where I wanted to get the photograph and it was closed off. I was gutted. I’d had this castle in my dream list for ages, it’s the biggest cave castle in the world and I really wanted a shot with no tourists, and I didn’t think I was going to get it.
We walked up to the viewpoint of the castle where everyonelse was taking there pictures. It was obviously full of Chinese and they can’t just take one photo and leave they have to take hundreds with the castle. A selfie of them and the castle, then there friends and the castle then a group shot. It was a nightmare and I was queueing for the same shot everyone had which wasn’t a bad shot, it just wasn’t original.
The place I wanted to shoot was actually below us and entry was gained via a coffee shop. Unfortunately because it’s out of season even if I went into the coffee shop the pathway I wanted was closed. Also there was a sign outside the coffee shop that said this is not a photographing spot except for paying customers. I was happy to buy a coffee and then try and bribe my way onto the closed footpath but Ellie wasn’t up for that and said why don’t we just walk down the bottom of the hill and see what it’s like.
On the way down we passed the coffee shop and a few houses and then I saw another guy walking across the grass at the bottom and I was feeling hopeful. As we got halfway down the hill there was a house and next to it was a grass track leading down to the bottom of the castle. I didn’t just want to get to the bottom of the castle I wanted to get halfway back up the grass hill to a set of steps which would be nearly impossible without being seen.
I told Ellie to wait at the road and I ducked down behind the wall that followed the grass track down. On the way down I saw the other photographer and said did you get a good picture? And he said yes, so I went for the shot I wanted.
I stood in the middle of the field and started shooting, nobody shouted at me so I moved forward and took some more. Still nobody said anything and then I made a run up the hill to the steps.
I made it to the spot I wanted and just started shooting. Still nobody said anything and I calmed a little and then composed the exact shot I wanted looking through the viewfinder. I took as many shots as I could then put the lens cap back on and ran back down the hill. I got to the wall ducked down and then ran up the hill half expecting someone to stop me at the top and say delete those photos.
I ran back to Ellie grinning like a Cheshire Cat saying I got it, I got it. Then we took a fast walk back to Wanda.
I couldn’t believe the photos I got but we paid the price when it came to the parking because even though we had only been 35 minutes it cost us nearly €6 to get out of the car park.
Back in Wanda I set the sat nav and we left Predjama Castle and Slovinia stopping at the last gas station on the border to top the diesel off while it was still cheap. Within 30 minutes we had crossed from Slovinia back into Italy and now we were at the very top of the Italian boot and we had the Adriatic Sea on our left hand side as we drove down off of the mountains and down to sea level.
I had found another free park up for the night in a marina car park in the town of Sistiana and tonight we would have a sea view.
When we arrived at 1:45pm there were plenty of parking spots but the place was very busy with walkers. We parked in a long bay in the centre of the roadside car park behind another Motorhome and after a cup of tea we decided to go for a walk along the marina.
At 2:30pm we left Wanda and turned right walking along the stony beach front following lots of other walkers. Unfortunately after just a couple of kilometers we came to a cliff that had an old fortress inside that jutted out into the sea blocking the path so we turned around and walked back past Wanda the other way.
Initially we couldn’t work out where all the people were walking to or from but as we turned a corner in the promenade we went under a huge archway and entered into what can only be classed as the Italian Riviera. There were hundreds of yachts moored up in a marina and in front of us was a large semi circular complex of condominiums that looked like toy town clinging to the side of the mountainside. The floor was paved with expensive looking slabs and impeccably clean and there were designer shops skirting along the whole of the bottom of the condominium complex leading to a covered plaza that had music playing on outdoor speakers. This place just reeked of money. The floor was so clean we could have eaten off of it and even the air smelled like it had been cleaned. We were out of our depth here.
We continued on looking at the crazy prices in shop windows. Coats that were on sale for €900. And shoes for €500.
Then we found the beach club. Unfortunately it was closed but even if it was open they wouldn’t have let the likes of us in. Me in my hoody with a greasy chain mark down the front and my combats and Ellie in her baggy trousers that look like pyjama bottoms.
Luckily for us because it was closed we could just walk straight around the back and sit by the infinity pool looking out to sea with the other unfortunates that were doing the same because they couldn’t afford to be there when it was open either.
We desperately wanted to get in the infinity pool. Not because we wanted a swim but because we wanted a bath and we were going to go back and get our swimming stuff but thought better of it. They definatly would have noticed a scum ring around the top of that pool after we’d been in it.
We got back to Wanda at 5:30pm and neither of us were very hungry so instead of doing dinner we just finished off Ellie’s pastry’s she had brought in the bakery.
Gradually the car park emptied and by 8pm we were on our own. It was pretty quiet except for the odd car driving past leaving the Italian riviera and I expect that to stop when the restaurants close.
Finally feeling abit more at ease now we were on our own we closed the blinds, put the chain across the doors and settled in for the night.Läs mer
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- Dag 31
- torsdag 2 november 2023 15:49
- 🌧 14 °C
- Höjd över havet: 315 ft
ItalienPiazza degli Scacchi45°44’37” N 11°39’9” E
Roads & Rain

We woke up at 6:30am this morning. I hadn’t had a bad nights sleep considering I wasn’t overkeen on our park up spot. But Ellie had loved it and once all the cars had gone by 11pm we were joined by a campervan that pulled up directly behind us and I felt a little better about being there overnight.
When we woke up it was grey skies and looked pretty miserable. The sun kept trying to poke through and the cliffs we could see out of the window turned a golden yellow in the sunlight. Then the black clouds came and that was the last of the sun we saw all day.
All we had planned for today was driving and hopefully finding a supermarket on route. We couldn’t check anything where we were because we didn’t really have any internet but I knew there was a Lidl near our park up spot for tonight if we didn’t find one on route.
At 9am sharp we left the marina and the rain was now coming down in buckets. I was a little worried about getting stuck at the marina because we had come down such a big hill but even though the water was gushing down Wanda gripped the road well and pulled us up. Once we reached the top my phone pinged with a weather alert for heavy persistent rain all day until tomorrow lunch time.
Our next official stop was going to be the mountains and a set of tunnels hand dug and just wide enough to get a mule through in 1917 but we weren’t going to make it all the way there today do I hand found us another free park up in the town of Marostica next the walls of it’s famous castle. It was 120 miles away and we’d already decided not to take any toll roads so it was going to take us 4 hours.
The journey was a nightmare in the fact that it rained all the way and the roads were like rivers. So far the Italians haven’t lived up to the hype of they’re all crazy drivers which was a blessing today but they do have there quirks. They love to drive right behind you and right on the white line in the middle of the road and it doesn’t matter if you’re already in a roundabout they will quite often just join it anyway. Also when pulling out from a junction it’s ok if there’s a couple of cars coming because they will wait but if there’s lots of cars they won’t wait and they’ll just pull out. It’s ok if you’re expecting it which I was well prepared for, but today I found the Italians flaw. They can’t drive in the rain.
It didn’t matter how good the road surface was or how far we could see ahead of us the Italians just wouldn’t go over 45mph. Even when we came to a duel carriageway they sat behind Lorries where they couldn’t see a thing because of the spray and still wouldn’t overtake. We just sailed by them all doing 55mph.
Eventually at around 70 miles into the journey we came across a huge retail park that had a Lidl, Aldi and a Eurospar amongst others. There were also lots of other stores including my favourite, a decathlon.
We decided to change it up a bit and did today’s shop in the Eurospar which was bigger than Lidl and had a better food selection but not so much fresh food.
After that we popped into Lidl and got a fresh pizza slice each from the bakery. We also brought pistachio ice cream.
Then I was allowed to go into decathlon. I wanted to look for extra merino wool socks for cycling but unfortunately they didn’t have what I was looking for and the prices seemed high. I did look at the other cycle clothing but shopping for cycling gear whilst with Ellie is like clothes shopping with a toddler so I just gave up.
Back outside the rain was really helling it down and we are our pizza slices while waiting for it to calm down. 20 minutes later it was still throwing it down so we just continued.
It took another one and half hours to do 32 miles and finally get to the free aire in Marostica and it looked to be a great spot.
We are parked right next to the ramparts of the old walled city and lower castle. The aire has been freshly made and is tarmac with space for 7 motorhomes with a dump station for grey water and supposedly black water and free fresh water. I say supposedly because when we pulled in I emptied our toilet and blocked the drain because it’s tiny so I don’t think that was where I was meant to empty it. Then we tipped off the grey water and backed in.
It was now 3:30pm and the rain was coming down so hard we couldn’t see across the rest of the car park. The field next to us was rapidly flooding but I wasn’t worried because the drains were pretty good and we could hear the water flooding down.
In Wanda we could hardly hear ourselves think the rain was so hard so we plugged ourselves into our phones and drank tea whilst waiting for it to stop. Eventually at 7pm the rain finally let up and slowed down. It’s meant to pick up again overnight but we are glad we have a nice spot to sit it out.
Marostica is an old medieval city and tomorrow if the rain lets off we are going to go and explore. Apparently there is a town square nearby that is made up of squares like a chess board and every 2 years they have human chess games where the knights are dressed as knights on real horses and the kings are queens are dressed up. It dates back to the 14th century where the winner would be awarded the oldest daughter of the monarch and the loser the youngest.
By 9pm the rain had pretty much stopped but a VW campervan had pulled up next to us with a canvas pop top and we can hear everything going on inside. I actually thought they were outside still.
After I had my first shower in 3 days which felt really good we settled in for the night finally being able to put the to on and hear it because the rain had stopped. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.Läs mer
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- Dag 32
- fredag 3 november 2023 15:57
- Höjd över havet: 390 ft
ItalienChiesa dei Carmini45°44’52” N 11°39’16” E
Medieval Marostica

We were awake this morning at 6:30am. Not because we wanted to but because the people next to us in the VW campervan were up early and had to open all there doors to start cooking outside in the rain. To top it off they had a kid that kept on shouting and whistling and running around Wanda.
It was still raining and had been all night, it was a proper miserable day outside and to top it off our new Wi-Fi aerial that I had fitted last year had sprung a leak and we had water coming through the ceiling into the cupboard.
By 9am we were both dressed. Ellie had, had her shower and now the inside was just as damp as outside so I googled where we could find a B&Q like store and found a Eurobrico 6 miles away and we decided to head there whilst it was still raining to get the stuff I needed to get the Wi-Fi aerial off and reseal it once the rain stopped.
I really needed WD40 as this makes silicone rubber just peel off and was so surprised they had it. Then we found some silicone flexi sealant but had to improvise on a spanner because they didn’t have one big enough and opted for plumbers pliers instead. Then we headed back to the Motorhome park up. The roads were more like rivers than roads and the river we crossed over was an absolute torrent of raging white water.
Back at the park up it was now midday and it was still chucking it down. Our neighbours in the campervan had left and in place of them was a German campervan. Luckily our end space was still available so we could back it in and still have the curtains open on my side of Wanda.
We had lunch of Wanda toasties and put the tv on and then just chilled in Wanda for a few hours.
Finally, just before 3pm the rain finally stopped and the cloud abated and blue skies appeared. Infact if the ground wasn’t wet it looked like a summers day outside.
Taking our chance to explore, we left Wanda and headed right out of the Motorhome park up and straight away we were at the rampart walls of the old city. These ramparts run for 2 miles and have 24 towers built in and go from the lower castle at ground level, 150 meters up the hillside to the upper castle. It was erected in the late 13th century and except for the odd repair it is all original and when it’s open you can walk the entirety of it.
At the ramparts we turned left and then went under the archway of one of the towers and into the town square. In the Center of the town square is the human chess board made of red and white marble. And at the other end of the chess board is the lower castle itself.
Posters for the next human chess games were dotted around and they are being held next September but the stage is being set up already and there were giant TV’s dotted around showing past games. It really does look amazing.
After taking some photos we headed into the lower castle paying €8 each. The castle is 14th century and mostly original except for some parts that have been rebuilt since WW2. This lower castle plays as the backdrop for the human chess games and houses all of clothing worn by the actors. They are all based on original 14th century clothing and to make the games happen over 500 extra people are needed not including backstage production staff or the horses involved. All of the weapons used are original. It really is a fantastic sight and we hope one day to be able to come back and watch it.
After the castle we headed out of the square to the old 13th century church. We love looking around European churches and the artwork in an Italian church really is unrivalled.
From that church we went to another older church that used to be part of an old 12th century friary and here we picked up the panoramic pathway to the upper castle.
The path leading up the 150 meter hillside is unbelievably steep and is made up solely of flint cobblestones. We were actually surprised it was even open. Treacherous wasn’t the word and none of it was level and we were slipping going up.
At the top we arrived at the upper castle which is closed for the season and to our disappointment the view from the top was crap so we turned around and headed back down trying not to break our necks.
Back at ground level it had now just gone 5pm and we took a slow walk back to Wanda through the beautiful Italian side streets looking at all the old houses.
Back at Wanda it was drying out and I got the stuff we had brought from Eurobrico earlier and climbed on the roof and cut away the sealant on the Wi-Fi aerial. Then removing the aerial I gave the roof a good soaking in WD40 left it for a couple of minutes and then scraped it clean with a knife. Then I dried it with kitchen roll and reapplied the silicone binding agent to the base of the aerial and reseated it. Then I climbed off the roof and did the bolt back up with the plumbers pliers and then went back to the roof to run my finger around the seal. It looks like a good job and providing it doesn’t rain tonight it should seal and dry nicely.
At 6pm Ellie made dinner and then we both decided to get in our pyjamas early and just watch crap in our phones until 8pm and then we put the tv on and chilled out for the rest of the evening. This is another free night, so far we haven’t paid for any park ups. The challenge now is can we complete the trip for free?Läs mer
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- Dag 33
- lördag 4 november 2023 11:07
- ☀️ 11 °C
- Höjd över havet: 430 ft
ItalienPiazza Garibaldi45°46’1” N 11°44’8” E
Bassano del Grappa

We woke up at 6am to the sound of the Germans next to us leaving. After that I didn’t really get back to sleep properly but we didn’t get out of bed until 7:30am.
Once coffees were done we put the bed away and then got dressed and then we had to fill up with fresh water and empty the toilet.
At 9:15am we were ready to roll and I set the sat nav to head just 5 miles away to the walled city of Bassano del Grappa. Ellie had found this place on google while checking out the human chess game in Marostica. She had also found parking for the night.
Unfortunatly as with nearly all of Ellie’s choices for park ups this was unsuitable. Not because of where it was but because it was a Saturday and by 10am when we get there the car park was full. So I drove around it and back out and then found a second spot that was actually closer to the city but had less cars in. I promptly told Ellie not to look for any more park ups, I don’t need to drive into city centres, I don’t need to be parked in dogging spots and I don’t want to be parked next to windmills because it will be windy.
Once parked we left Wanda and headed own to the river. It was raging around the edge of the city but we had come to the river to see the Ponte Vecchio (Ponte degli Alpini) a beautiful centuries old covered bridge.
We walked past the bridge to the first viewpoint and it was pretty crap because of where the sun was. Then we headed up to the new road bridge and from here we had a great view and with the river raging underneath it created an amazing waterfall over the old weir.
Pictures done we decided to head into the city itself and passed through an ancient archway of the old walls and once inside the walls it was heaving. Unbeknown to us, Saturday is market day and all of the roads through the city are closed and are filled with market stalls. It was absolutely crazy. There was barely any room to walk and once in we were pushed along with the glow of the crowd. There were loads of stalls of fresh fruit and veg, stalls with cheeses, salami stalls and even clothes and shoes. This was the place to be on a Saturday.
By now it was midday and the bars and cafes were filling up. Even cyclists were riding into the busy centre and drinking beers outside the cafes.
Pushed along we were almost popped out at the other end of the market at the old city, we felt like we had been in a washing machine of people. Here we found an old church and popped in.
Inside there were a few old people sitting on the pews. Were they looking for god or had they just been spat out of the human washing machine and resting? We weren’t sure.
The best part about this church were the three murals painted on the ceiling, they really were amazing. It did also have several holy paintings dotted around the edges that were also amazing.
Back outside the church we decided to head back into the market and get some food.
We put some crabs claws, and some little pieces of battered cod and some potato balls that looked abit like croquettes. Then we had to get back through the market again to get back to Wanda.
Back at Wanda we ate the food and the cod was amazing, then we decided to leave Bassano del Grappa and head to another free park up for the night closer the road of 52 tunnels.
It was just 16 miles to our next park up in the town of Santorso. This is another dedicated area for Motorhomes and although it is off a side road off of the main drag it backs onto cycling and hiking paths and seems pretty quiet. It also has free water.
We arrived at 1:30pm and Ellie said she was tired so I looked for a cycle route and then got my bike off the back and got changed. I found what I thought to be a nice little route of 45km and 500 meters of climbing and looking at the pictures most of it was on an old railway line.
I left at 2pm with my route downloaded to my gps. The thing about getting a route someone else has made is if they went wrong and didn’t edit the route then I will go that way too.
The route started off lovely heading down a cycle path and then into some quiet roads but after just 7km the gps told me to turn around. This is when I checked the route and realised whoever had made the route and taken this way and then changed there mind so I had to back track 3km and then turn right. This took me off the cycle path and onto really busy roads which I wasn’t happy with but I knew I was heading to gravel tracks and pushed on.
I actually stayed on the main roads for far longer than I wanted crossing 2 major roundabouts and I was just about to give up and turn back when I left the road and hit the gravel. Finally I was on the old railway line.
I stayed on the railway line only for about 8km crossing a beautiful bridge with a fantastic waterfall underneath before coming to a huge climb of 15%. I knew the climb was coming but what I didn’t know was that it was on cobblestones. This climb was a real leg killer and at the halfway point I was already standing on the pedals and crawling up it at a snails pace. Then the surface changed to slabs which were quite slippery so u had to stay seated and then there was grass before more cobbles. This was a killer climb. At what I thought was the top of the climb was a main road. The gps route headed straight on and as I crossed over the climb continued. To me this was a nightmare. My breathing was out of whack and my rhythm had been broken by the change in surfaces and the fact I’d had to stop to cross the road. I continued on and then just as I hit more cobblestones the gps said I was going the wrong way. I checked the route and it turns out that whoever made the route was actually taking me to scenic viewpoints.
I turned around and headed back down the cobbles and the gps told me to turn right onto a major road and through a tunnel. I wasn’t really happy about this and now the light was starting to fade and the weather was closing in. I went down the road and through the tunnel which took me down a big hill and I was doing 50kph. I glanced at my gps for directions and noticed 2 sets of arrows one going my way and one going back so I stopped and checked and this was taking me to another viewpoint.
I turned around and cycled back up the hill on the busy road, back through the tunnel and then picked up a side road that took me back down parallel to the cobbled climb I had just done. It was now starting to rain and at the bottom of the hill I came into a small town and I could see my backtrack in the gps not far away and headed for that. Once I picked up the backtrack I just cycled back the way I had come avoiding the busy roads.
It was a good ride but not one I would have chosen to do if someone had told me the route. I had thought I was lucky finding a quiet route, I was wrong.
Back at Wanda it was now 5pm and I got changed back into my normal clothes and I decided we would head to the car park for the 52 tunnels. Normally I wouldn’t dream of driving anywhere in a foreign country in the dark but the road upto the 52 tunnels is almost single track and steep and reading reviews online they said it was easier to go up late evening or early morning so we set the sat nav and started what would be our most frightening drive of this trip.
We left the park up and it was just 9 miles to get to the car park where we wanted to spend the night. Leaving town was crazy. It was now heavy rain and obviously we didn’t know where we were going. We couldn’t see any of the road markings on the road and luckily I had cars in front of all the way out of town until after 5 miles TomTom told me to take a sharp right. Straight away we started going up and then came the switchbacks. The road was now single track and for every straight piece of road we ascended 100 meters at 10% until the next switchback. Then the lengths of road shortened and the switchbacks became more frequent and this was becoming a problem as we couldn’t keep any momentum or getting any swing on the turns because the road wasn’t wide enough. To top it off because of the rain we kept losing grip. Finally we came to a bend that was a full 180° and I didn’t think we were going to make it. I got as far out on the edge of the road as I could and then full locked and the cliff side just loomed towards us. Wanda made a crunching sound as I thought we hit something on the back left side and then the front right wheel dropped off the edge into the cliff. I couldn’t stop because we’d never get going again and I couldn’t go back so I powered on through the crunching sound, what damage had occurred was already done it was no good worrying about it. I straightened up and pushed on. We were still climbing and all we could see below us were tiny lights of houses and cars far below us. We were now officially scared.
Then we came to another switchback but luckily there was another road off to the left and I called it and said “ we’re done, we’re scrapping this location”. And the road we had joined started taking us down.
I reset the Sat nav to get us back to the park up we had just left and we descended all the way back down to ground level in second gear. Then we took the 10 mile drive back to the park up at 35mph.
Back at the park up I jumped straight out to check Wanda for damage. I thought at the very least I’d have smashed the bumper at worst it would need replacing. To my amazement Wanda had absolutely no damage and the crunching sound was us slipping off the road into gravel and as I powered up and the wheels were spinning to get a grip it through gravel and mud all up my door. We’d had a very lucky escape.
Back in Wanda Ellie made us a great dinner and I put the hot water on and had a shower. Then it was time to settle in for the night listening to the rain on the roof.Läs mer
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- Dag 34
- söndag 5 november 2023 16:45
- ☀️ 10 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 247 ft
ItalienBrentonico45°48’54” N 10°57’21” E
Mountain Passes to Brentonico

Around 9:30pm last night loud music started in the distance. I initially thought it was a car turning up in the car park with the stereo on but it actually turned out to be live music from a club and it went on until 1am. I was hoping the rain in the roof would drown it out but it didn’t and I didn’t get to sleep until gone 2am. Then at 6:30am a dog started barking right behind us and didn’t stop for half an hour.
By 8am we were up and dressed and I just wanted to leave and after tidying Wanda up and bolting everything down we made a move for it.
Out next official destination is Riva Del Garda but there’s no free places to stay overnight there and we don’t mind paying for parking for the day but we’re not paying extortionate amounts for a campsight or Aire in a tourist area so I found a free park up on route.
Leaving Santorso we got on the main road and I’d already looked at the route and realised we would be going through the mountains and after last nights little escapade I wasn’t looking forward to.
We exited the town and were going exactly the same way we went last night and then we passed the turn off that we had taken last night. Now we were on unknown roads but it was a state road. Then we started climbing and the switchbacks came and the road narrowed. The gradients increased, 10%, 12% and then 15% this was Wandas limit on the switchbacks dnd we knew it. I personally was crapping myself looking at the sat nav knowing that if we didn’t make a turn we would be stuck. There’s no side roads, no lay-bys and the road wasn’t wide enough to do a 3 point turn. Wanda climbed admirably and even though we were revving the nuts out of the engine she pulled us all the way. Then we came to the car park of the 52 tunnels where we were trying to get to last night. My heart wanted to stop and go hiking but my right foot just stayed on the accelerator and we carried on climbing. Up and up we went and even if I could have turned around this was the only way over the mountains and home. Finally we reached the summit and we had just climbed the Cima Carega, and ascended 2250 meters. This is one of the highest mountain passes in the Trentino-Alto Alps. At the summit we stopped so Ellie could get out and get some pictures. The wind was howling outside and the temperature was just 2°c. I stayed in Wanda, my hands were actually shaking through fear of not getting up the pass. Getting back in Ellie said “ Well done, we’re nearly there” and I said “ actually we’ve only done 11 miles there’s another 30 to go”.
Over the top we were going down and we encountered the first snow on the roads and I took most of the 7 mile descent in second gear at 15mph. It was fine in the dry but in shaded areas where it was wet I was worried about picking up too much speed and not being able to stop. The Italians also like to take the racing line even if they can’t see and we had several near misses with them coming around blind bends on our side of the road.
Back at ground level we poodled along at 45mph going with the flow of traffic until we got 5 miles away from our destination. Then we started going up again and continued up for 4 miles on switchbacks and a 12% gradient until we finally came into the village of Brentinico. Here there was a Motorhome park up and I’d already read the reviews and seen the pictures and everyone said follow the signs not your sat nav.
As soon as we came into the village we saw the sign for motorhomes and followed it, even though TomTom was telling me to turn left. After another mile the signs said turn right and it took us into a really tight street that had a lovely little kink in it with overhanging roofs. I squeezed Wanda through and then the park appeared at the edge of the village. I’m so glad we haven’t got anything bigger than Wanda because we wouldn’t be able to get to places like this.
There were 4 other motorhomes here when we arrived. 3 of them are plugged in to the electric which is €1.50 for 12 hours. I reversed in and we have the most amazing views of white capped mountains out of our windows.
Being a Sunday the village is pretty much closed but there are shops here including a bakery, a co-op and various independent shops.
Once we’d had a cup of tea we decided to go exploring and just a couple of hundred meters away is a huge church. It’s left open but even if it’s closed the keys are hanging up outside so you can just let yourself in. Once again we were impressed with all of the artwork on the walls and the paintings of saints with candles in front of them.
From the church we wandered around the village and through the park where we found a tree with square holes cut into the side with glass doors full of books called the little library.
From the park we headed back to Wanda and behind the Motorhome park up is a cemetery so we thought we’d go and investigate that.
European cemeteries always amaze us in the fact that no matter when somebody died, and it might be 30 or 50 years ago and sometimes longer, there’s always fresh flowers from surviving family members on the grave. The other thing we have noticed in Europe is that on most graves is a photo. Some of these were dating back to the late 1800’s. Being Italy a lot of the ones that died in the 1960’s looked like mob bosses.
From the cemetery we headed back to Wanda. It was now 5:30pm and the temperature was dropping fast. It was now just 8°c outside. I think we’re going to in for a chilly night.
At 6:30pm we decided to go to the local restaurant and get a take away pizza. They were €10 each for 2 14 “ pizzas and were handmade and cooked on a wood fired pizza oven right there in front of us in the family restaurant,
Back at Wanda we stuffed ourselves on pizza. I managed to finish mine but Ellie didn’t. The base was unbelievably light and didn’t leave us feeling bloated like an English supermarket pizza.
After dinner I decided to pay €1:50 for 12 hours of electric. That way we could heat the water and have the electric fire on and it wouldn’t waste gas and we could keep the heating on overnight without worrying.
With dinner out of the way Ellie had a shower and managed to actually dry her hair with the hairdryer and then we settled in for the night. The clouds have just started to come back over so we’re hoping for no rain and for the temperature not to drop much below the 5°c it currently is, and a peaceful nights sleep.Läs mer
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- Dag 35
- måndag 6 november 2023 13:15
- ☀️ 15 °C
- Höjd över havet: 240 ft
ItalienRiva del Garda45°52’56” N 10°50’45” E
Riva Del Garda

We woke up at 7am and it was just 3°c outside and 8°c inside. I put the gas fire on because the electric we had paid for ran out at 6am and then made coffees and we both sat under the duvet whilst Wanda warmed up.
At 8:30am we decided to head to the co-op and it was beautiful outside with blue skies, white fluffy clouds and a gorgeous Mountain View, the air felt really fresh.
Just before 9am we left our mountainside park up and headed just 15 miles down the road to Riva Del Garda and lake Garda. Here there is a Motorhome park up for €1 an hour, we could stay overnight but I was only here to ride the hanging cycle path and we didn’t want to pay for a park up unless we had to.
Once we had parked at 9:30am I got changed into my cycling stuff and got my bike off the back. I’d had this route planned since may whilst watching the Giro De Italia but I knew about the cycle route before that.
I left Ellie in Wanda googling crap on her phone and cycled down the road to the edges of lake Garda and turned right. You would think for a famous cycle route it would be well marked but it wasn’t and when I did find a sign it was tiny. I managed to pick up the red cycleway running next to the pedestrians path and cycled through the Riva Del Garda plaza and out the other side and then the shops stopped and the cycleway went through a tunnel and in the other side I should have gone through a longer tunnel but it was closed off with locked gates.
There was a road next to me that had a cycle sign on it and I took that and it did a big loop of 360° bringing me into a gravel track but I was on top of the tunnel I should have taken.
Now I didn’t know where I was going but I presumed it was just a diversion and carried on.
This route was actually part of the mountain bike route of lake Garda and was gravel all the way. This track just climbed and climbed and went through a series of tunnels, the gradient was 10% all the way. After nearly 45 minutes of climbing on gravel and with just one switchback left until I reached the top I stopped and checked to see where I was and realised I was miles away from where I wanted to be and even if I made it to the top I’d be in main roads to get to where I wanted.
I gave up and cycled back down and back to Wanda. I’d only cycled 15km but done 300 meters of climbing.
Back at Wanda it was now 11:30am so I put my normal clothes back on, ate Ellie’s left over pizza for lunch and then we left Wanda in the car park and walked along the banks of Lake Garda to the plaza. It was 21°c but felt much hotter.
At the plaza it was now 12:30 and most of the shops were closing for siesta. Here they close from 12-3pm or 1-4pm. It’s mad that when we get to these places most of the shops are closed.
We were looking for a souvenir shop to buy an Italian mug for our collection but they are all closed but we did find a gelato shop and it would have been rude to pass without buying some so I had snickers and pistachio and Ellie had cherry and mango and got brain freeze from eating it so fast.
From the Gelato store we took a slow walk back to Wanda, paid for the parking which came to €3 and then headed to our park up for the night.
Obviously we didn’t want to break the cycle of free park ups as the challenge has now become can we do this whole trip without paying for a camp site, so I’d found a free aire 30 miles away from where we were down the eastern shores of lake Garda and 3 miles inland.
We had a stunning 27 mile drive around the edges of lake Garda with amazing views and we went through about 15 tunnels. Some of them were 2km long. Finally we left the shores of lake Garda and started heading inland to Gavardo.
We’d found a decent little spot on the edge of a retail park but it’s made for motorhomes and the area is huge. When we arrived there were just 2 other motorhomes here. There is also a big park out at the front of us and considering it is a very busy area it’s actually really quiet.
In Wanda we plotted where we were going to head to next. It should have been up and to the Stelvio pass and then Switzerland but because of the bad weather recently the Stelvio pass is closed and we think Switzerland is already having snow so we’ve scrapped Switzerland to head further east in Italy and then down towards the coast and around the maritime-alps into France.
Our next official destination would be just outside Turin but we’ll have to stop on route and find a laundrette, that will be our first job tomorrow.
At 5pm we had dinner of Beef Noodles and after washing up we settled in for the night closing all the blinds and shutting out the world until tomorrow.Läs mer
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- Dag 36
- tisdag 7 november 2023 15:52
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Höjd över havet: 476 ft
ItalienChiesa di S. Martino Vescovo45°27’53” N 8°52’54” E
Magenta

We woke up at 6:30am. Early even for us but for some reason last night we were both shattered and decided to go to bed at 9pm.
We’d had a decent nights sleep which was good because today we had a big drive ahead of us.
We left Gavardo at 8:30am and that was a bad move because we definitely hit rush hour. We’re not really sure when rush hour actually is because most shops don’t open until 10am, but obviously there are factory workers etc that do start earlier but we don’t know when they start. It seems Europe has prolonged rush hours between 6am and 10am and 4pm -7pm.
We were now caught in traffic on a motorway making a snails pace.
We were surprised how many drivers overtook us not to get anywhere. There was nowhere to go. Cars were even overtaking each other not to get anywhere but infront. It was crazy.
By 9:30am the traffic had calmed and we had about 20 miles on the motorway which was nice because I just set the cruise control at 60mph and we just bobbed along with the cars. Then we had about 30 miles on state roads cutting through towns on our way to Milan.
Our first stop was on the outskirts of Milan behind the airport at a laundrette. Luckily there was a huge car park that was free about 50 meters away so we parked Wanda there and I noticed a sign that said no parking between 11am and 1pm. Which I thought was funny for a car park.
It was now 10:30am and we ran down to the laundrette which was empty and we put our clothes in and then went next door to the bakery for breakfast. Then we went back to Wanda and ate breakfast while the kettle boiled.
Ellie had just made tea when the timer went off to say the washing was done so we left the tea and headed back down to the laundrette to put the washing in the dryer. When we came back 5 minutes later it was now 11:10am and the car park had 2 road sweepers in it and men with leaf blowers and a traffic warden writing tickets for all the cars that are now parked there.
We jumped back in Wanda, Ellie picked the teas up we had just left and I started the engine.
Before the traffic warden had a chance to get to us we left and drove down the road and sat in a driveway for 10 minutes. There was another car park next to where we had just been but it was full when we passed it, but as luck would have it as we sat in the driveway drinking our teas 2 cars next to each other left.
I swung around in the road and back into the car park and reversed in. It was a tight fit but we now had parking for the 20 minutes the dryer was going to take.
After 20 minutes Ellie went back to the laundrette and I stayed with Wanda. I waited 5 minutes and then drove back to the first car park to pick her up, then we had a 30 mile drive to our park up spot.
It took us just over an hour to get to the edges of the town called Magenta. We’d found another free park up at a camping and Motorhome store with free water and black and grey dump stations.
It’s not the prettiest of park ups and it is next to a major road but it’s roughly at the half way point to Turin and it more than meets our needs.
We actually arrived really early at 1:30pm and we had tea and then a snooze and when we woke up we were bored so decided to drive into the town of Magenta.
It’s a historic town dating back to the 12th century but well off the tourist trail so nobody comes here. I’d already found us a decent parking spot at the edge of the city Center by a shopping complex and we headed there and locked Wanda up.
We headed straight down road passing little shops that were closed for siesta time and after just 1/2 mile we came to the town Center. Here we found the Magenta Basillica, it was huge on the outside. It’s open to the public so we entered through 2 sets of wooden doors that must have been 20 foot tall with elaborate carvings on. Once inside we could hardly believe our eyes.
The place was massive, with huge pink marbled columns stretching from floor to the ceiling. The floor was tiled with different coloured tiles and the ceiling had the most elaborate paintings we have ever seen.
Running down either side were 20 confessional boxes, 10 on each side and above them were paintings that must have measured 10x5 foot depicting the life of Jesus.
At each pillar at the sides were statues of saints with candles and rows of chairs almost like mini churches in themselves. It was an incredible building and certainly the most elaborate artwork in a church we have seen so far.
Back out on the streets we had a look around the shops as they were now opening back up again. It was 4pm.
We took a slow walk back to Wanda and debated on staying where we were for the night. It was certainly quieter but we don’t really like parking somewhere on our own if it’s not a dedicated area especially if there is a dedicated place just down the road.
We headed back to Camping Magenta for the night and arrived at 4:30pm and sat in the back of Wanda watching the crazy drivers on the roundabout until the sunset. It sounds boring but nobody in Europe knows how to use a roundabout so it’s actually quite funny.
We had dinner of Italian cordon bleaus followed by fresh tiramisu at 6pm and then we shut ourselves in and settled down for the night ready for another big drive tomorrow.Läs mer
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- Dag 37
- onsdag 8 november 2023 13:13
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 555 ft
ItalienBorgo Nuovo45°9’13” N 7°26’49” E
Val della Torre

Considering we had parked practically on a roundabout on a very busy road we actually had a fairly good nights sleep. The traffic calmed right down at around 11pm. It never really stopped but it didn’t pick up again until about 5am. That’s when the Lorry’s started moving about again and we were woken up by the sound of air brakes stopping and restarting on the roundabout.
We finally got out of bed at 6:30am and it was just 3°c outside and 7°c inside so the first thing I did was light the fire and put the kettle on.
After Ellie had a shower we started packing Wanda up and after filling with fresh water at 9am we left.
We had a 90 mile journey ahead of us and although we enjoyed driving through the back lanes and villages getting through the towns was a nightmare. Sometimes not paying for tolls can be a real hindrance, but we did a have a snow capped Mountain View all the way.
At midday we arrived at our park up in the town of Valle de torre.
It is a beautiful park up completely surrounded by mountains with a river running through the centre of the park up with pooling mountain water to bathe in. It’s also free, with free electric, water and grey and black waste.
After arriving we had a cup of tea and a snooze for 20 minutes then we decided to go exploring.
Nearby there is an old tower dating back from Roman times so we checked that out and then continued down a quiet road following the path of the river. We followed the river for about a mile and a half before turning left onto a gravel track that was a hiking trail and it started going uphill. After another mile we emerged in the next village where the was a huge church and cemetery.
From this village we turned left and headed down the quiet main road back to our village and back to Wanda. We had just walked 6 kilometres.
Back at Wanda I decided to get changed and have a dip in the pools by the river. It was freezing cold but refreshing. I didn’t stay in long because the fish kept nibbling at my legs.
As we walked back to Wanda paragliders started descending from the mountains and were landing in the field next to us. It looked quite serene as they came floating down with sunbeams piercing through the gaps of the mountains.
Once I got changed we headed over to the shop. It was now 3:30pm and the shop had just opened. Here we brought some fresh crusty bread to have with our lasagne but we also brought some chestnut jam.
Chestnut jam actually tastes like a caramel spread with a hint of nut. It’s amazing and we’re going to buy another jar before we leave.
In Wanda the temperature was now dropping so Ellie put the oven on and put the lasagne in for dinner then while that cooked we put the to on.
As beautiful as our park is it has the flaw of barking dogs. There is a kennels down the road with around 20 dogs in and every time a customer turns up they all kick off. We know exactly how that feels. We can’t really hear the kennels but there is a dog somewhere up the hill behind us that hadn’t shut up for hours. You would think at least one of the neighbours would say something.
We’re praying that the dog shuts up this evening otherwise we’ll have to move.Läs mer
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- Dag 38
- torsdag 9 november 2023 10:26
- ☁️ 8 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 289 ft
ItalienChiesa di San Giovanni44°38’38” N 7°29’13” E
Val della torre to Saluzzo

We both woke up at 7am. The barking dogs were relentless all night and we couldn’t wait to leave. It seemed as though one dog would stop and then another one somewhere else would start.
By 8:30am we were ready and we had just a 1 hour drive to our location of the day. The Sacra di San Michele in Italian or the sanctuary of saint Michael in English.
Obviously it was on a hill and in the local area it’s a famous climb for cyclists called the Col de Bosque. The gradient didn’t actually seem that bad but it was a constant 6% all the way up it to the 3/4 mark. Then there was a downhill and then it was 8% for the rest of the way. In total it’s a 10km leg zapping climb but today we went up it in Wanda although I would have loved to give it a go we didn’t have the time.
We stopped at the 3/4 mark where there was a great parking spot where I launched the drone. We were so lucky with the weather to get the drone shots. The Sanctuary really needs to be viewed from afar to appreciate the size and scale of it and where it is situated.
Once I had the drone shots we pushed on the last couple of miles uphill. Found a parking spot that cost €3 an hour and then paid €8 each to enter the sanctuary.
Although the sanctuary is impressive from inside we really only got access to the church and it was straight in, up the stone steps to the church, a quick wander around and back out the other side. The wall art was amazing and so was the way it was built on top of the cliff incorporating the natural rock into it’s walls, but really it was a lot of money for not a lot of sanctuary.
Back at Wanda we had something to eat and then made our way back down the Col du Bosque and I was cheering the cyclists going up.
Back on level ground we had a 60 mile drive to our park up for the night and luckily for me half of it was on the motorway so I just set the cruise control. The other half was driving around the outskirts of towns where the Italians seemed to have fallen in love with roundabouts. I’m so sick of negotiating roundabouts especially when other European drivers don’t know how to use them.
At 1pm we arrived at our camp spot for the night in the ancient town of Saluzzo and now it was raining so we made a cup of tea and then chilled out in Wanda until mid afternoon.
At 3:30pm we left Wanda and headed out in the rain to the town. There is an old part and a new part and we headed straight down the road to the old part of the city where all the streets are cobbled and there were some very steep steps. In the centre of the old plaza square was the old church which wasn’t open today. There was also the town hall which was huge and covered in Italian flags and the regional flag.
From the church we headed downhill down a set of steps that were cobbled and ancient. They were tricky to negotiate when wet. They must be a nightmare in the snow and ice.
Back at ground level we popped out of a little ally into the main high street of the new part of town. Rather than cobbled the streets here are brick paved and mostly pedestrianised.
We walked all the way down one side of the high street and then back up the other.
There were lots of independent clothes shops and lots of coffee shops and restaurants. It was extremely busy and the cafes were thriving as usual. Even the school kids were coming out of school and going to the coffee shops.
We didn’t go in any of the shops but just looked through the windows. It’s funny how some of the smaller towns have shops that are full of things you just want to go in and see and some towns are full of shops with nothing in particular. This was one of those towns even though it was pretty.
At the other end of the high street we headed back to Wanda, the rain had stopped and we had a nice walk back up the hill to our little aire away from the town. Just as we got back the rain started again.
Our little aire is nice. It’s a proper Motorhome area that’s free of charge but they do charge for electric should we need it and it’s €2 for 100 litres of water. It’s quiet which is the main thing and there’s no barking dogs but there is church bells in the distance. I don’t mind the church bells but Ellie doesn’t like them at night.
Back in Wanda we had homemade chilli and fresh bread for dinner. The bread crust was so tough it could have been a speed hump but the inside was nice.
At 7pm with the washing up done we closed the blinds and put our pyjamas on and settled in for the night. Tomorrow we’re going to try and make it further down to the coast and it could be our last stop in Italy. We still haven’t paid for any sleep spots.Läs mer
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- Dag 39
- fredag 10 november 2023 15:35
- 🌬 15 °C
- Höjd över havet: Havsnivå
ItalienTorrente Nervia43°47’1” N 7°38’11” E
Our last day in Italy

We were up at 7am this morning. We’d had a great nights sleep at our aire in Saluzzo. There were no dogs barking and no church bells.
By 8:30am we were ready to move and we had to get fresh water and empty the toilet and grey waste. We don’t have a clue where we will be able to fill up or empty again as now we’re driving blind.
Today would probably be our last full day in Italy but because of the weather closing in we’d decided to drive around the Alps and that meant we’d have to drive down to the coast and back into France that way. It also meant we’d be driving through proper southern France including Nice and Monaco and Cannes. Something I wasn’t looking too so today was going to be a test run.
We had a 130 mile drive ahead of us and it was set to take just over 5 hours avoiding the toll roads.
Most of the journey was monotonous except for when we drove around one mountain pass which was quite beautiful. The rest of the journey was single roads and roundabouts and we stopped for diesel and then at a Lidl around the halfway point to break the drive up.
After 100 miles we came to the coast and then we turned west driving along the coast road. It was a total nightmare. The roads were really tight and there were pedestrians everywhere and scooters. The scooter drivers just went wherever there was a gap and they were overtaking and undertaking all the time. It was crazy. Some of them were even doing double overtakes and in the other side of the road they were doing the same. How we didn’t see an accident I’ll never know.
Finally at 2:30pm we came to our park up for the night. It’s just a gravel car park but it’s right on the seafront and even though the area is a bit shabby we feel pretty safe.
When we pulled up the sun was shining outside and it was 18°c but the wind was howling and gusting at nearly 40mph. The waves were crashing into the seafront.
As we sat in Wanda drinking tea she was rocking about and making all sorts of noises.
At 3:30pm we locked Wanda up and headed east along the seafront and then inland towards town. We still hadn’t got an Italy mug for our shelf at home so now we were desperate and looking for souvenir shops.
Even though we are at the beach and it must be a tourist area because there are camping sites and Motorhome sites here, aswell as numerous apartment blocks, but there are absolutely no souvenir shops. It’s all cafes and restaurants. We walked for miles. Through the town we were in and then we turned west, over a bridge and along the seafront to the next town. In 8km and 2 hours of walking we didn’t find one souvenir shop. We were gutted. But we will make a point of making an Italy mug and using one of own pictures.
As we walked back to Wanda we watched a beautiful sunset over the sea. It was our first real sunset of the whole trip and just as it disappeared we got back to Wanda. Then out of the window we watched the clouds go orange and pink before it finally got dark.
At 6:30pm, still feeling quite safe where we were, Ellie made a lovely dinner of noodle soup and then we closed the blinds and settled in for the night. The wind is still gusting but not quite as bad so I’m hoping we get a half decent nights sleep because tomorrow we’re going to have to negotiate the roads of Monaco.Läs mer
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- Dag 40
- lördag 11 november 2023 11:04
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Höjd över havet: 26 ft
MonacoPort Hercule43°44’8” N 7°25’20” E
Monaco

We had a pretty bad nights sleep. I was still awake at 12:30am listening to every single sound outside. People would walk past the car park talking and I’d get up to check that it wasn’t a group and it just turned out to be people on the phones most of the time. Then at 4:30am the binmen turned up crashing and banging around.
We were up at 6am and it was a chilly 5°c outside. I put the fire on and made coffee and we drank then quickly and then put the bed away.
I wanted to be out of here before the traffic started and at 7am we left the car park and the seafront watching the sun rise out of the sea.
By 7:15am we were back on the coast road. Traffic was light at this hour and it’s just how I wanted it. We’d spent all yesterday evening looking for free places to park in or near Monaco that wasn’t on a stupid incline or at a roadside and we thought we’d found one but it wasn’t on any of our apps.
We passed through customs and for the first time ever we got stopped and they came in and checked our cupboards and toilet for any strangers. Then we were back in France and on the edge of the Maritime-Alps heading into Monaco.
TomTom said my vehicle profile didn’t match where we were going but I’d checked google and thought we’d get through and after negotiating the 16% gradient and countless switchbacks we came to a little side road and just off of it was gravel parking.
It was now 8:15am and we’d made it to our park up for the day. It overlooked a huge sporting complex and we were so lucky getting here early as there was a big event here today and by 9am the place filled up with cars.
Nobody gave us a second look which I was happy about and at 10am we locked Wanda up and started the trek into Monaco.
We parked on the mountainside in Beausoleil just above the Monaco marina. From the road side we can see it but the problem is, it’s straight down 250 meters and it’s slopes and stairs. The slopes are a 25% gradient.
Going down was obviously the east bit but even walking down we were at a crazy angle. It would be a killer climb on the way back.
It was almost a straight run down the slopes and steps and once at the bottom we found a souvenir shop where we brought our Monaco mug. Then we continued towards the Marina stopping at the Monaco Casino from James Bonds Casino Royale for pictures. Given all the hype about it, it wasn’t that impressive.
With the Casino out of the way we walked to the Marina and Bay Area. This is where the super rich are and the yachts showed it.
We didn’t see anyone famous but there were lots of Ferraris and Porsches driving about.
The roads were unbelievably busy but now we’re back in France they always stop to let you cross at a crossing.
From the Marina we headed into the automobile collection. A collection of cars owned by the prince of Monaco. It cost us €10 each to get in and there were some really fascinating cars dating right back to the early 1900’s from all over the world. The collection pretty much went in year order dating from the oldest cars like the early fords right up to modern day Ferraris, Lamborghinis and formula 1 cars. It seemed quite a lot of money to view the collection but any attraction here starts at €10.
From the automobile collection we headed onto the promenade of shops and brought 2 fresh baguettes and then headed to the park and ate them. Here we did our people watching noticing lots of men wearing suits and walking like they’d just come out of the gym and young girls shopping. Probably with daddy’s credit card.
After our lunch it was time to start the climb back to Wanda and it was relentless. Words can’t describe how many steps we went up but the steps were far easier than the slopes of 25%. It was easily the hardest walk of the trip so far. Ellie had to keep stopping because her legs were done.
At one stop we stopped by some bins and ontop were some clothes. Someone had obviously chucked them out but they were like new and Ellie went skip diving and found a nice top. So she even got clothes from Monaco. And even though it came off the bin it stills smells better than us.
By the time we got back to Wanda at 1pm we were completely done in. Even my legs and bum were hurting. Nobody is made for walking at those angles and we both had a lay down to recover.
We stayed in Wanda all afternoon. Whatever was happening in the sports centre there was a lot of coming and going and music was intermittently playing.
At 5pm we left Wanda again. We were right near a view point and it would complete our climb from ground level earlier all the way to the summit of Col De Mules. It was only a 10 minute walk and except for bumping into 3 police personnel we didn’t see a soul and had the whole viewpoint to ourselves.
Obviously going to any new country is great but we never thought in a million years that we would come to Monaco let alone stand above the famous Marina alone watching the sunset. Considering it wasn’t a bucket list location we’ve had quite an amazing day.
When we got back to Wanda it was 6:30pm. The temperature had dropped by 8°c to just 10°c and whatever music had been playing intermittently earlier was now in full swing. To top it off there were now more cars here than when we left.
I started looking on park4night for other locations but neither of us really fancied moving in the dark and the closest place was over 30 miles away. Then by the time we had made up our mind to move it was too late. The road we were on was now full of cars and they were now double parking. It was crazy outside and we were stuck here. We’d have to ride the noise out now until morning.Läs mer
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- Dag 41
- söndag 12 november 2023 13:37
- ☀️ 16 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 558 ft
FrankrikeBargemon43°37’9” N 6°33’6” E
Bargemon

Last night we hardly got any sleep. The music went on until midnight. At 9pm the sound of the music dramatically increased and a live performer started singing. We were about 50 meters away from the venue and the bass was unbelievable. Wanda was actually vibrating. At 10:30pm the music stopped and there was a lot of talking on the microphone. They were obviously giving out awards for various things. Then it went quiet and a few cars left and then the worst thing happened. An accordion started playing and it went on and on. When it did stop there was all this cheering and then whoever was playing played the same song again. Then they did the same song but with a baseline. It was truly awful. In the end Ellie and I gave up trying to sleep. Finally at 12:10am the music stopped and then we had a flurry of cars doors whilst everyone left.
At 6am I was woken up by a scooter riding past and decided to get up and make the coffee so we could get out of here early. I’d had about an hours sleep and was completely done in.
At 6:50am we were ready to leave. I set the sat nav thinking I had around a 30 mile journey which would take around 60-90 minutes but because we are avoiding the tolls the mileage was actually 79 miles.
We set off down the hill, drove right through the centre of Monaco and picked up the coast road. Then we stayed in the coast road all the way to Nice which is a major city. We drove right through the centre of Nice. Down the main high street and over the tramlines. I was so grateful we got up early. It was now 8am. In another hour this would be mayhem. From Nice we turned right and took the exact route I never wanted to drive. Right over the Maritime Alps. We went up and over the Col du Basse at 500 meters, up and over the col du Pelade at 937 meters and then the Col du Gourdon at just over 1200 meters. Fortunately the roads were pretty straight with very few switchbacks and the gradient was steady so Wanda didn’t struggle but as time ticked on more and more cars were in the road and I felt like I was being pushed so I kept stopping to let them pass.
At 9:45am we started the decent with 15 miles left to go. And then came the tight switchbacks and we were in second and 3rd gear all the way down.
At 10:40am we finally arrived in the ancient town of Bargemon where there is a 3.5 tonne weight limit and for our final hurdle we had to negotiate the narrow cobbled roads to reach the free aire.
Here we have beautiful Mountain Views, free water and dump station and best of all peace and quiet. As soon as we arrived we closed the blinds and had a rest for 45 minutes.
At 1pm we decided to go and check out the town, so we left Wanda and turned left out of the aire heading down the road we had just come in on and towards the cobbled town square. This is the oldest part of the town dating back to the 16th century. From here we turned left through a narrow archway that was used for horses and carts and onto the oldest streets. This was once the main high street and it has tiny alleyways leading off of it to squares that went nowhere. These were probably old market place stands back when it was the main thoroughfare. The old police station is still there but is now a museum and it even has the original old prison right of the street. It was a fascinating street.
The town itself is really quite fascinating to walk around and the new roads, albeit small have been built in keep with the old town and the town has 4 museums. One of the police and jail, a fossil museum, a history of the town museum and an art museum. There is also a tiny supermarket, a bakery and butchery and various cafes. Only the cafes are open today.
We done a complete loop of the town and got back to Wanda around 2pm and then we just chilled out for the rest of the day watching the clouds move across mountains against a beautiful blue sky. We’ve been so lucky with the weather on this trip. Today it is really windy but still a sunny 16°c and hot outside. We know we can’t have many more days like this left as we push further up France and back towards home.Läs mer
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- Dag 42
- måndag 13 november 2023 15:14
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 417 ft
FrankrikeLes Mées44°2’10” N 5°59’51” E
Malijai

We woke up at 6:30am. It was lucky we did because at 6:45 the binmen turned up to empty the bins across the road. After coffees we got dressed and moved over to the dump station to get fresh water. We’d both decided to have long hot showers yesterday afternoon after arriving and desperately needed water. Unfortunately the pressure on the water tap was useless and it was also a push button tap. I stood there for 15 minutes with my hand on the button and we were still only half full so we just gave up.
All we had to do today was drive to another aire and I’d found us what looked to be a beautiful place. But first we had to get there and that meant driving out of the haute-alps region which I wasn’t looking forward to.
The thing with TomTom is once it picks a route you can’t really tell what terrain you’re going to get until you get there.
Once TomTom had planned the route I looked at it and changed it to a straighter route with less switchbacks, I wasn’t sure if the switchbacks were going up or down on the route but a straight run would be better on me and Wanda.
At 9am we left and drove back down the tight roads and cobbled streets we came in on. They were busier this morning than yesterday and as I turned right out of the village we started climbing. At the top of the hill there was a junction off to the right. This was the way we drive in that was full of switchbacks but now we continued straight on and up. We reached the summit of the first climb at 800 meters. Wanda didn’t mind as the bends were long and gradual so I could keep it in third gear and she just pulled us up. Then came the decent and we were almost back at ground level in a long valley with mountains either side and in front of us and a river running to our left. I commented on the size of the mountains in front and said I hope we’re going through them and not over the top.
We weren’t going through.
Gradually the road started rising. We hardly noticed it until we got to the first bend and realised the ground was hundreds of feet below us and we were literally driving around the side of the mountain. It just kept climbing and although there were no real switchbacks there were lots of blind corners on sharp bends where I literally had to stop and edge us around because 2 cars wouldn’t fit.
After 30 minutes we reached the summit and we’d just climbed Col des Lèques from La Tuilière in the region Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. It is 6.6km long and bridges 343 vertical meters with an average gradient of 5.2%, and a maximum gradient of 13.9%.. The summit of the ascent is located at 1148 meters above sea level. All we had to do now was get over the other side.
We had 20 miles of driving left and it was a beautiful drive running through the gorge du Verdon with Mont Blanc as a backdrop with its huge snowy white cap. It looked very imposing even with the other mountains around it.
At midday we arrived at our park up for the night in the village of Malijai. It’s a beautiful park up next to a huge children’s park that has a fenced in 5 aside football area, 2 tennis courts and a pump track and bmx track. The Motorhome area is closed off because snowfall is imminent in this area but the car parks are still open and there were already 4 motorhomes at the furthest car park so we chose to stay in the cars car park where the dump station is.
Our first port of call was to get water but the water supply has been turned off until April to protect it from the frost so we’ll have to make do with what we collected this morning until we can find a tap. All we had to do now was chill for the rest of the day.
I checked my app to see if there were any bike rides in the area and there were lots but most involved going on a main road and after looking for an hour I gave up.
Another hour past and it was now 2pm and Ellie was watching YouTube but I was bored so I said let’s go for a walk.
There was a canal behind us that’s part of the EDF hydro electric damn and after spending an hour looking for a bike ride I knew the area pretty well and knew we could walk along it.
We left Wanda and headed down a small road and into the village. It really was tiny with just a handful of shops. At the village we crossed over the main highway we came in on and we were at the Canal then we just started walking.
There was nothing much to see but we were heading towards a forested area and just followed the route of the canal. Then I remembered reading something on my app about giant hoodoos in the area and suggested we might try and walk to them.
After 80 minutes of walking we came to the very impressive hoodoos. They are known as Rochers des pénitents. According to the legend, After the king of the area had won a war he returned with some captured girls. A few years later the king was visited by a group of monks who rescued the girls but Saint Donat transformed the monks into rocks since they had fallen in love with the captured Moorish girls.
Once we got to Rochers des pénitents we turned around and headed back. It was a surprisingly warm 16°c and of course we hadn’t taken any water.
We got back to Wanda at 4:30pm and we had walked over 6 miles. I worked out that so far just hiking on this trip we have walked over 120 miles. That doesn’t include going to attractions, walking around towns or shopping so we probably done over 200 miles of walking.
We made cups of tea as soon as we got back and put the tv on and watched an incredible orange and red sunset over the mountains. It was our best sunset of the trip. Then we had dinner, closed the blinds and settled in for the night.Läs mer