Nepal
Khudi

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    • Day 3

      Besisahar - Dharapani in jeep

      April 22, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Il risveglio.
      Ci svegliamo in uno stato variegato: io e Paolo riposati, Lorenzo bollito. Innanzitutto non ha dormito, se non al mattino (ricordatevi di questo particolare) - posso confermarlo perché nei miei tre/quattro risvegli l'ho trovato dormiente solo l'ultima. Io russo, Paolo russa; a causa delle blatte abbiamo tenuto la luce accesa ma questo ha attirato le zanzare, e tutto questo non ha giovato al suo riposo. Io ho passato la notte rinchiuso nel sacco a pelo per difendermi, e alle 5:30 già si sentivano rumori dalla strada, annunciati un'ora prima dall'urlo spiacevole di un uccello, che si sarebbe potuto scambiare per un omicidio.
      Ah, dimenticavo, è stato pure punto su una palpebra. Ha aggiunto un antistaminico alla sua dieta di antidolorifici per la schiena.

      Abbiamo due opzioni davanti: fermarci a Tal allungando la tappa a piedi, o prendere l'itinerario più su, realizzando una tappa più modesta. Dato l'andazzo confermiamo quest'ultima.

      Colazione a base di yogurt, banana e muesli (secchi come segatura) per me, carichiamo le cose sul tetto della Mahindra (off-road di fabbricazione indiana) e partiamo. Da qui in avanti è il regno dei 4x4, dove hanno un senso, sono per queste persone di montagna dei veri strumenti di lavoro. Penso con un sorriso alla sciura in via Farini che muove il suo Defender passo lungo nel traffico del mattino.
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    • Day 134

      'We hebben er trek in'

      November 21, 2015 in Nepal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Bij het krieken van de dag staan we naast ons bed. 06:10 vertrekken we richting busstation. De bus vertrekt stipt 6 minuten te laat. We nemen dit keer een 'local' bus met als gevolg dat deze al snel rammend vol staat. Gelukkig doen we er een uur korter over dan voorspeld was, dus gaan we niet eerst lunchen en vertrekken we meteen. Rond 12:30 uur zijn we al in Khudi en besluiten we wat te gaan lunchen. Op een idyllisch plekje kunnen we even bijkomen van ons eerste stuk. Altijd weer even wennen aan lopen met een rugzak. Na de lunch zijn we al snel in Bhulbhule - onze tweede stop-optie - maar Krishna ('call me Chris') stelt voor om nog een uur door te lopen. Het is nog vroeg en op die manier snoepen we weer een uur af van de route van morgen. We gaan akkoord, maar het is wel het zwaarste stuk. Het is behoorlijk warm en het vroege opstaan en de rugzak beginnen zwaar mee te tellen. Uiteindelijk zijn we rond 15:30 uur bij een guesthouse. Mag geen naam hebben, maar de prijs is navenant (EUR 2,00 voor een tweepersoonskamer). Het opfrissen doen we in de 'shower' met een emmer warm water en een maatbeker; rudimentair, maar prima. Na het avondeten drinken we nog een kop thee met op de achtergrond een televisie die elke drie minuten uitvalt - heel pittoresk ;) Vroeg naar bed!Read more

    • Day 225

      Annapurna Circuit I

      March 12, 2020 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      The Annapurna Circuit is one of the most famous hikes in the world. The loop around the Annapurna massif climbs from 800m through the wonderful Marsyangdi valley up to the 5416m high Thorang-La Pass. It's well-known for its amazing views, that's why it can get very crowded up there. But as Covid-19 stopped many tourists around the world from moving and many hikers decided to leave the country, I really got the most out of this trek.

      Along the way I shared many kilometres with many nice people, above all with Elija from Switzerland, Alieke&Peter, a Dutch couple, and Victoire from France. Technically the hike isn't difficult. However the high risk of altitude sickness makes it a challenging adventure. Furthermore this year the winter was way too long and half of the trek was covered in deep snow and ice.

      I really enjoyed the daily routine: go to bed early, have breakfast, hike amazing paths, have a break with breathtaking views, visit the tiny mountain villages with its monasteries, praying wheels, friendly locals and the most important to me: day dreaming of the huge Dal Bhat dinner waiting next to a bonfire in the evening. The nights got very cold, however during the day the sun literally burns your skin.
      It took me around two weeks -including days of acclimatization- to cross the pass and get into the Kali Gandaki valley. I will always remember the last climbing day. We started our ascent after a short cold night in 4500m at 5am in the dark. Every step took us hours because of the lack of oxygen. Finally with our hot cup of tea on top of Thorang-La Pass, we felt pure satisfaction.

      The same day we dropped down to Muktinath at 3700m on the other side. Here we wanted to relax and hang around some days. But plans changed. We received information from the government saying that they will soon “lockdown” the country because of Corona. So the same day we decided to hike down to Kagbeni, a beautiful village where we hoped to stay for some days.
      We just got comfy with this situation as the next morning the police issued us an ultimatum with two options, either to stay for ten days locked in the hostel or to take the unique opportunity to take a bus straight to Kathmandu. As we were sure that the quarantine will last even more days and the situation in Nepal could get worse, everybody decided to leave. Finally after a crazy adventurous twenty-four hours ride with many security checks (at this moment nobody was allowed to move in Nepal) we were back in the capital.

      In addition I followed the recommendations of the German embassy to register in the “Return to your country programme". Things speeded up so quickly that I couldn't really process what was going on. The same day I already received the information that I was on the list to fly back to Frankfurt the next morning. I spent the last hours of eight months of travelling by saying quickly goodbye to the others, I informed my family that I was going to be back tomorrow and the most complicated thing: I tried to understand what really was happening around me – impossible.

      On the flight back I got into a nostalgic mood. Watching out of the plane window I could almost see our whole trip passing by in front of my eyes in a few hours. Down there 10km below me all the beautiful countries with its even more fantastic people, so many memories, experiences, adventures in the last 8 months. So close but so far.

      I conclude: Maybe a special once-in-a-lifetime journey has to finish also in a special way :-)

      Namaste
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    • Day 4

      Volle Pulle nach Bhulbhule

      April 4, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      5 Uhr aufstehen.
      Man stelle sich die schlimmste Straße oder Buckelpiste, den schlimmsten Feldweg vor, multipliziere mit 3 und man erhält eine ungefähre Vorstellung von unserer 6-stündigen Busfahrt nach Besisahar. Wildwasserrafting ohne Wasser.
      Da bekommt die Foltermethode „Rädern" eine völlig neue Bedeutung.
      Beim einsteigen in den Bus setzt sich Dancing in etwas Nasses. Es könnte auch nur Wasser gewesen sein...
      Auf dem Weg aus der Großstadt sehen wir viele werktätige Menschen. Die meisten gehen der Tätigkeit Rumstehen oder Rumsitzen nach. Beneidenswert.
      Die Musik im Bus lädt zum tanzen ein. Kurzer Stopp an der „Urine Hall".
      Langsam verschwindet der Smog und es wird grüner. Weniger Chaos, Müll und Lärm.
      Die Fahrt zehrt an den Nerven. Schlafen unmöglich. Teilweise springen wir einen halben Meter in die Höhe durch die Schlaglöcher.
      Bei einer Rast knüpft der Damei Lala geschäftliche Kontakte. Demnächst gibt es Glasschreibtische in Nepal. Nur der Transport wird schwierig.
      In Besisahar angekommen stärken wir uns, bevor es zu Fuß weiter geht. Hier startet unsere Trekking-Tour: Die Annapurna-Umrundung.
      Wir gehen entlang eines Tales, überqueren die erste riesige Hängebrücke und gelangen in kleine abgelegene Orte. Immer wieder kommen uns freudestrahlend kleine Kinder entgegen gerannt, rufen Namaste, weisen uns den Weg oder wollen fotografiert werden.
      Dann plötzlich ist es soweit. Hinter einer Kurve erblicken wir den ersten Schneeriesen. Etwas wolkenverhangen verbirgt er noch seine ganze Größe.
      Wir landen schließlich in Bhulbhule in einer Lodge, die man in Deutschland wohl als Scheune bezeichnen würde.
      Sir Hillary und der Damei Lala stellen sich sogleich zusammen und nackt unter eine Fake-Dusche, bevor sie zur richtigen Dusche wechseln.
      Später sitzen wir auf der Terrasse und genießen erneut den Anblick auf den ersten Schneeriesen.
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