Retirement Plan - Part 2

June 2017 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Time For A Road Trip Read more
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  • Day 154

    Madrid - Day 1

    November 6, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A couple of hours from Medinaceli and we were in the centre of Spain. Using a campsite at Aranjuez, 43km south of Madrid as our base, we took the train into the city for some culture.

    With three of the worlds best art museums to be found in Madrid, we opted for the Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Museum, a private collection acquired over two generations, which showcases works of the great masters over a 7-century period.

    Exhibited over three floors, we were able to admire works by Gauguin, Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Rubens, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, Picasso, Dali and Freud to name a few and look in detail at each painting. It was an excellent exhibition and is free to the general public on Mondays, thanks to sponsorship by MasterCard. Even if you don't get the chance to visit on a Monday, it is well worth the admission ticket.

    From there we wandered around the old town and admired the ornate buildings and old-fashioned shops all beautifully displaying their goods. By this time we were getting a bit peckish and our guidebook gave us a very good suggestion for a local bar renowned for its 'bocadillo calamares'. Le Ideal is a small bar just off the main square where the counter area was so narrow that the half a dozen staff behind it each had to man their one-metre length of it as it was impossible for them to get past one another! We placed our order and in no time our deep-fried squid rolls arrived as did the wine and beer. It was standing room only in there, but that just added to the experience.

    With our heads full of exquisite paintings and our stomachs full of squid rolls, we walked back to the train and headed back. A great first day in Madrid.
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  • Day 156

    Madrid - Day 2

    November 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    The plan today was to visit the Royal Palace but when we got there we found that it was closed to the public for several days. The Royal family doesn't live there anymore but it is still used for special occasions and, though we didn't find out what the occasion was, we still enjoyed our visit but for a different reason. It just happened that as we arrived, a marching band started up and there followed a grand procession of very ornately uniformed soldiers on horseback. It was the Solemn Changing of the Guard that only happens on the first Wednesday of each month. Against a deep blue sky and bright sunshine we watched a piece of true Spanish pomp and ceremony.

    From here we headed to the Mercado de San Miguel, one of Madrid oldest markets which has now become a place where locals come to meet for posh tapas, with prices to match. We did stop for a quick taster and chinked a glass of sangria cava to our friend Sue whose birthday it was. I could have stayed longer but Chris wanted to try some of the food at the Museo de Jamon, which wasn't a ham museum, but a bar/restaurant/shop with a focus on Spanish ham. A couple more tapas there and then we were off again, admiring the city.

    One of Spain's grandest squares has to be Plaza Mayor with its ochre-coloured apartments and 237 black wrought-iron balconies. Designed in 1619, its first public ceremony was the beatification of Madrid's patron saint, St. Isidro the Farm Labourer. From then on it also celebrated royal weddings, bull fights and executions with burnings at the stake and deaths by garotte on the north side and hangings to the south! The only thing that we felt spoilt it a little, and in other places too, was the number of modern 'human statues' who, for a few euros, will allow you to have a photo taken with them

    Towards the end of our walking tour, we came across the Chocolateria de San Gines, famous for its hot chocolate con churros, so we had to stop. The cups of hot chocolate reminded us of our time in Sicily where cups of thick, dark chocolate are served and our friend Judi drank two, one straight after the other! This time, I opted for a scoop of vanilla ice-cream with hot chocolate poured over into which I dipped my churros, a long finger of deep-fried doughnut.

    Again we left Madrid with our tummies full and lots of great memories.
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  • Day 158

    Aranjuez, Spain

    November 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    As it is impossible and madness to take our motorhome and bike into Madrid, we stayed in a campsite at Aranjuez, south of Madrid which was worth a visit in its own right.

    Unesco World Heritage-listed, Aranjuez was founded as a royal retreat from the hustle and bustle of Madrid by Felipe II, inspired by the palace at Versailles. After visiting Madrid, we chose not to visit the interior of the palace and saved that for another time. We did however wander around the grounds and gardens and the rest of the town, which was wonderful with the large square and fountain surrounded by cobbled streets and gateway arches.

    The central market sold everything you needed from meats, fish, vegetables and pastries. We restrained ourselves this time and instead headed to Casa Pablete, a local bar that has been going strong since 1946. Another tiny place inside with standing room only we had no idea what to order as everything was in Spanish. Luckily, a young couple next to us at the bar spoke English and helped us out. One of the things we have come to love about eating here is the tapas where you can try just a little of something and so we tried the mussels, croquettes, fried potatoes with a spicy sauce, Iberian ham roll, sausage roll and bacon roll. It sounds a lot but wasn't - really!

    It was just as well that we walked around the town because the sat nav wanted to take us through there when we left and we knew that there was no way we were going to get around some of the corners in the centre!

    NOTES
    Camping International Aranjuez - quite a few permanent caravans and tents, obviously an escape from Madrid and noisy at weekend. Fab showers with underfloor heating. Fresh bread every day but shop now out of season so not always open. Lidl and Mercadona close but need transport.
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  • Day 161

    Cordoba, Andalucia

    November 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Cordoba province is a largely rural area renowned for its olive, wine and the historic Roman-founded city of Cordoba itself. So it was no surprise on our journey there to pass by acres and acres of vines, which then gave way to olive trees as far as the eye could see in all directions. However, the city itself was the reason for our visit and one building in particular; the Mezquita, one of the world's greatest Islamic buildings and a symbol of sophisticated Islamic culture that flourished here more than a millennium ago when Cordoba was the capital of Islamic Spain, and Western Europe's biggest and most cultured city.

    Evidence of Cordoba's Roman origins can still be seen today in the bridge crossing the Guadalquivir river and a temple, but nearly everything else is buried 1-2 metres below the ground. However, the city really took centre stage when Abd ar-Rahman I set himself up here as emir of the Muslim- controlled parts of the Iberian peninsula. He founded the Mezquita in 785. By 929, the city was the largest in Europe with a successful economy based on agriculture and skilled artisan products. It was also known as the 'city of three cultures' where Muslims, Jews and Christians coexisted peacefully and enriched the city with their different cultures until around 1008 when a ruthless general took the reins of power from the caliphs. Anarchy and uprisings followed until Cordoba was no more than a minor part of Seville.

    The story of the Mezquita starts with Abd ar-Rahman I purchasing half of the church of San Vicente for the Muslim community's Friday prayers. Then he bought the other half and erected a mosque. Further extensions nearly quadrupled its size and then a 16th century cathedral was built right in the middle!

    The entrance is formed by a courtyard of orange, palm and cypress trees and fountains. It was originally the site of ritual ablutions before entering the mosque for prayer. The Mezquita itself was a revolutionary building for its time, designed with lots of open space so that the spirit could roam freely and communicate with God easily during prayer. The prayer hall was divided into 11 'naves' by lines of red brick and white stone striped arches, representing a forest of date palms which rested on 1293 columns, of which 856 still remain. Further additions include the building of an intricately decorated area where the caliphs and courtiers would pray and a golden portal. Even today it is beautiful so it must have been stunning at the time.

    Following the Christian conquest of Cordoba in 1236, the Mezquita was used as a cathedral and remained largely unaltered for almost three centuries until King Carlos I gave permission, in the 16th century, for the centre to be striped out in order to construct the main alter area and choir, which today features jasper and red marble for the alter and fine mahogany stalls for the choir.

    It is impossible here to describe fully what a unique and beautiful place this is. You shall have to see it for yourself.
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  • Day 162

    Arrival in southern Spain

    November 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We have now completed our journey south, through France and Spain, and have arrived in the Costa del Sol. What better way to start our time here than meeting up with good friends Nigel and Tracey, who have been enjoying living here for the last nine months.

    They live in the foothills of the Axarquīa region, an area of deep valleys, lined with carved out terracing that dates back to Islamic times, as does most of the olive, almond and vines planted here. Reaching their villa meant a winding climb up the steep and narrow roads and then a short drive down an unmade track to their short, steep dirt drive down to the villa. Getting down was no problem.

    We had a week of great company and delicious meals and they were excellent tour guides showing us the best places including local markets and beach restaurants in Torre del Mar where we enjoyed a few hours sipping wine whilst listening to a fantastic Queen tribute band.

    On our walks through the valley, we always took large shopping bags with us to make the most of collecting wood for the evening fire, as whilst it was lovely and hot during the daytime, it got chilly once the sun went down and, with no central heating, the fire kept us toasty. The valley was also home to a large flock of sheep and herd of goats, that were shepherded up and down the hills by the shepherd and his four dogs. The sound of the bells around their necks announced their arrival from afar. Local man, Manolo, made good use of his mule loading it up with four large sacks to transport elsewhere. He's way ahead of us in terms of environmental awareness and efficiency!

    Now getting up and then down to their place worked out fine but getting out was not as straight forward. With his foot hard on the peddle, Chris managed to get the motorhome up the drive and almost through the steel gates before the wheels started spinning and forward progress of stopped. After 20 minutes of inching the motorhome up and forward, the wheels kept on spinning and it was thanks to a local neighbours father, who turned up in his large and powerful 4-wheel drive with tow rope, that we cleared the ever-closer gates! Refusing any financial reward for his efforts, he watched to make sure we got back onto tarmac before driving off with a cheery wave. What lovely people.
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  • Day 165

    Stupa Karma Guen

    November 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    With panoramic views from Nigel and Tracey's terrace, we could see an unusual building at the top of the mountain opposite, so we jumped on the bike to explore.

    After a few wrong turns, followed by some pretty steep and bumpy roads and tracks, we eventually arrived at the 13m high Karma Guen Stupa, one of only five Kalachakra stupas in the world and the first one built in the west. A Kalachakra stupa is a symbol of universal peace and unity amongst different peoples. They are said to possess great spiritual power and bring about compassion, love and happiness, social, spiritual and physical well-being, regardless of nationality or religious beliefs.

    The location was just beautiful, overlooking the surrounding mountains all the way to the coast where the sea glistened in the sun and we were lucky enough to have to all to ourselves.

    It reminded me of my time in Kathmandu and the wonderful stupa I visited there. Although this one was smaller, it was just as special as we followed the instructions and both walked clockwise around it, silently sending out our thoughts and good wishes.
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  • Day 179

    It's snowing!

    December 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Currently in a campsite on the south coast where it has been raining for two days. Woke up this morning to clear blue skies and sunshine. However, when we looked up at the mountains behind, which had been hidden by clouds for 48hrs, they were dusted in snow!Read more

  • Day 183

    The Alcazaba of Almeria

    December 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Located on a hill overlooking the town and bay of Almeria, this impressive fortress, founded in the mid-10th century, was once one of the most powerful Moorish fortresses in Spain.

    The Alcazabar is divided into three main areas, each reflecting the changes of different rulership. The lowest area, now landscaped gardens, was once residential with houses, streets and wells. In the upper area was the Muslim ruler's palace and a chapel, that was originally a mosque. Right at the top is a citadel added by the Catholic monarchs.

    The site is still being excavated but what has been discovered has been carefully and tastefully restored. Two houses have been built on Islamic remains and items displayed which give visitors a real insight to the daily life of its inhabitants.

    In modern times the Alcazabar has become popular with film-makers looking for authentic venues to produce Hollywood classics such as Lawrence of Arabia, Conan the Barbarian, Anthony and Cleopatra, Indiana Jones and, more recently, Game of Thrones.

    We were amazed that there was no entrance fee to this fantastic site with so much history on display and modern tv screens bringing the past to life. Well worth a visit.
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