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Pakistan
Northern Areas

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 237

      moses peak #3

      9. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

      nika decided to head back to camp one and was insistent that he could go alone, so the rest of us continued up the mountain through a rough boulder field topped with snow. it was a treterous mix of stone hopping, sinking into snow and trying to avoid stepping onto air bubbles. after just half an hour, matthieu and elias were already exhausted and made the decision to turn back and catch nika on his way down.

      the rest of the group, now down to tom, jasper and me, tried its best to push onwards, but it was h-a-r-d. after 2 hours, we reached some small huts and realized that this was the place where we should've slept that night in order to be able to make the journey to high camp the next day. in short: we were super worn out already and technically hadn't even started that day's hike yet. we decided that it just wasn't going to happen, not at this time of year, not with this equipment, not with this (pretty inexperienced) group.

      in retrospective, the others definitely had a lot more left in them than i did. i think i was still more sick than i'd wanted to admit in order to not sabotage the trek for the others. whatever, we decided to set up camp there and spent the day resting for the big descent.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 238

      moses peak #4

      10. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      of course we're a smart bunch, so we tried to learn from our previous mistakes and to get up as early as possible for an alpine start. this way, we could traverse the snow fields while they were still frozen. getting up and packing the tents in those temperatures was an ordeal, but it paid off well. we made some good progress and quickly reached the previous camp site.

      i chugged my red bull there, which was, as my tradition dictates, reservered strictly for the summit, but i figured it would help with the weight. def tasted weird, but at the time, i just assumed it's like with tomato juice on an airplane.

      we continued to make great progress and checked off camp after camp. i was still feeling super exhausted and weak though. i assumed, like i had been for the last four days, that it was just the height. i proved this theory wrong by vomiting on the ground and immediately feeling way better. must've been the restaurant we ate at before heading up.

      back in the village after a day of walking, we even managed to hitch a ride back to skardu in the back of a pickup truck. it was objectively horrible, but we still had a lot of fun. at a checkpoint, the tourist police managed to spot us and forced us to get out and stopped a minibus for us to take to skardu, where the other three guys were already waiting for us.

      and just like that, our little hiking adventure is over. more to come.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 239–241

      skardu #2

      11. mai, Pakistan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      one by one, our group split up again. first, tom left, then elias and matthieu, and finally jasper. only me and nika stayed for a couple more days. i had no choice, really, because i had to find out that our host and his kids had used my bike while i was gone and had somehow managed to break multiple spokes and jack up the derailleur and bend the luggage rack.

      luckily, there was a bike shop (one of only two in the whole of gilgit-baltistan) whose owner fixed some of those problems, but made some others even worse. he did it for free though, so i can't complain. i realized that this was as good as it was going to get, so i packed my stuff, said goodbye to skardu and hopped on a bus back to gilgit. pretty crazy to cover the distance of four days worth of cycling in a couple of hours.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 241–242

      gilgit #2

      13. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      in gilgit, i was looking for accomodation, when some very energetic guy on the street made me a good offer and took me to his hotel. i ordered some food up to my room, when the server asked me if his filmmaker friends could interview me for a couple of minutes after my dinner. i was really tired, but of course i agreed.

      i assumed his friends to be some high school students, but actually two grown ass men with a gopro in hand introduced themselves to me and drove me to another hotel with a nicer lobby as a backdrop to film an interview. i was too polite to say no at this point, so in the end, i sat there for hours, recollecting everything about my trip and answering all of their questions. then, they staged some scenes of me entering the hotel (by the way, looking like an absolute hobo after all that time spent outside), me being interviewed, yada yada yada.

      they then also wanted hundreds of pictures and videos from my trip for them to use in their documentary. i was super tired, all my stuff is on a cloud and it would've taken hours to send them everything, so i just told them i'd do it later. i never did, it just didn't feel right. i still have mixed feelings about the whole thing... i'm really sorry to have wasted their time, but if there's ever a documentary about my trip, i want it to be on my terms and not made to harvest views on some pakistani youtube channel.

      anyways, i got myself a got bit of rest, before finally setting off on my solo bikepacking trip the next morning.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 242

      cycling the kkh #1

      14. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      before i left gilgit, i still needed a tire pump. a guy from the hotel luckily helped me and took me to a hardware store. got a cheap pump and headed off towards china.

      exiting gilgit on the beautiful windy mountain road, i noticed that the cycling felt really tough, as if the brakes were on the whole time. i tried putting more pressure onto the tires, but it didn't help much. i told myself that it's just the weight. the other thing was the sun, absolutely blasting heat, really not fun on inclines (which made up most of the way xd).

      i kept my spirits high and at the end of the day, i had made it exactly a third of the way to sost, where the bus to the chinese border would leave. pakistan is regarded as one of the worst countries for wild camping, but i managed to find an agreeable spot in a road bend. i thought i was invisible there, but didn't think of the possibility that there could be gardens in the hills above me.

      sure enough, after an hour, two men came to me to tell me that it was dangerous to stay here and that i should go to a hotel down the road. luckily, after some negotiation, i managed to convince them to let me just do my thing. it really paid off. i decided to just sleep outside without the tent , watched a great movie and fell asleep under an amazing pollution-free night sky.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 243

      cycling the kkh #2

      15. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      this day was even more scenic than the first one. i rode all the way through hunza valley and up to attabad lake, which has the craziest colour i've ever seen in nature. the sun was banging again and there was a fat climbing section, but with a few eating & reading breaks, it wasn't too bad.

      until i got to the pakistani-chinese friendship tunnel and my entire rear casette broke off the bearing with no way of fixing it on the spot. i had to push the bike a couple of kilometres out of the tunnel, but still had 20 or so to go to my goal for the day. i was figuring what my next moves should be, when some sort of police convoy stopped next to me and threw me and my bike onto the back of a pickup truck and drove me through the rest of the tunnels.

      from there, i managed to hitchhike a transporter for a couple more kilometres. then, i just pushed or rolled the rest of the way, until i finally made it to a little mechanic shop. although they had no experience with bicycles, they managed to fix it at least temporarily, so that i could ride the rest of the way. needless to say, i was veeery relieved when i finally saw the hostel sign.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 243–248

      gulmit

      15. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      stepan had recommended this hostel to me mainly because of the guy that ran the place, an old mountaineering grandpa with plenty of stories to tell of 7- and 8000m peaks. there were also one or two other guests there, which was great.

      still, that didn't fix my bike problems. the closest (and only) bike shop was back in aliabad, half a day's ride away. i thought i could maybe hitchhike there, so i set off the next day, only to find out that all the transporters that i banked on went up empty and down filled to the brim with gravel. after a couple of hours, i gave up and went back to the hostel.

      then, the next day, i set off early to try to just cycle the whole way, hoping that my bike would still make it that far. it didn't. and then, just as i had makeshift repaired it again, i realized that it was friday, which is like sunday in pakistan, so there was a good chance the bike shop wouldn't even be open. i went back again.

      i was pretty frustrated at this point, so i slowly made the decision to just take the financial L and sell the bike to the hostel owner, who had already asked me if he could have it. it was a shitty situation, but i think i made the right call.

      around the same time, i met hannah and axel, a hitchhiker couple from austria, who turned out to also have the same route in mind as me. we went for a hike in the mountains together and got along great, so we decided to partner up for the china crossing and maybe even as far as central asia.

      we spent a couple more days at the hostel while i sorted out the bike sale with the owner. in the end, i got my five nights at the hostel for free, plus a bit of extra money for the last bit of pakistan. with the bike gone, i felt like a weight had been lifted that i didn't even knew was there. it felt great to be back to good old flexible hitchhiking.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 231

      along the indus #3

      3. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      after waking up and having breakfast with some of the locals, we went to go see our new friends gem mine (unfortunately, it was friday, the only day where they don't use dynamite in the mines) and immediately began chiselling away at the walls. didn't find anything, sadly.
      but it was super funny because the guy basically only spoke in catchphrases that he kept saying over and over. here's a couple of our favourites that were immediately adopted into our vocabularies:

      "gemstone available"
      "blast here, blast here"
      "tourmaline here"

      after that great start, it only got worse. i was struggling a lot, especially around noon, where i really had to keep myself from fainting or throwing up. i chugged some yeast solition, which brought me back to life so far as to at least make it to our target village for the day. some truck drivers helpes us get up a steep climbing section by letting us hold on to their trucks and we even played volleyball (which seems to be the national sport of gilgit-baltistan) with some locals. in the evening, we found a hotel (with internet access!!), but they tried to scam us and we went for a small homestay instead.

      (by the way, even if i don't mention it in every entry about the bike tour, the views were great, of course)      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 230

      along the indus #2

      2. mai, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      woke up to a nice view and got going. the day before, we had only covered like 40 kilometres, so we had to put a bit more effort in if we wanted to make it to skardu anytime soon. 40 really doesn't sound like much, but in that sun, on that terrain, with that weight, with no shorts allowed because of islamic law, and completely out of shape when it comes to cycling, it's a proper ordeal.

      also, the nourishment situation wasn't looking too bright. between gilgit and skardu are only a couple of villages scattered along the valley, and pretty much all they sell there is chips and softdrinks. i had oats with fanta for breakfast and oats with pepsi for lunch. matthieu taught us, you gotta keep that blood sugar going.

      in the first village we came across, i managed to get a wooden plank from some locals and we strapped it onto elias' bike to fix his luggage-falling-off-problem. the sun kicked our asses, but we eventually made it to a village, where we were invited to stay at a guy's guest house. turns out he also owns a lot of gem mines in the area and is a hobby geologist. he was very eager to show us his rock collection. great guy.      Les mer

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    • Reisendeto nowhere in particular
      Dag 228–229

      gilgit #1

      30. april, Pakistan ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      we arrived in gilgit with no idea where to go, but were quickly able to find a cheap hotel. we rested in the room for the rest of the day. elias got cocky at one point and made a bet that he could drink 1.5 litres of water in one go. he lost, but see for yourself.Les mer

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    Det kan også være du kjenner dette stedet med følgende navn:

    Northern Areas, Gilgit-Baltistan, Nordområdene, Nordområda

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