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Buena Vista

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    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 3

      Iquitos, the Peruvian Amazon Capital

      September 18, 2016 in Peru

      Wow!!! What an amazing day!!

      From flying over the Andes with the peaks bursting above the clouds, to landing with a view of the Amazon River meandering through the forest. Absolutely incredible! The view of the forest as we approached was just spectacular. Trees as far as the eye can see and with the beautiful misty clouds evaporating from the canopy. So lucky to be here.

      Our itinerary had been a bit mixed up and we had to wait for another couple to arrive before heading to the jungle. We were looked after well at the office in Iquitos though, given a room to nap and have a shower if we wanted and then taken on a tour of a conservation centre in Iquitos.

      The centre works hard to rehabilitate and release several species, from tortoises (these funny things like to gather in great mounds and pile on top of each other) to monkeys, but their focus is manatees. Unfortunately, they are being killed for their meat (I would say hunted but they are docile and curious creatures so that's probably not the term to use) and the knock-on effects are awful. Without their grazing the river will starve of oxygen and much more river life would struggle to exist. They had seven babies in quarantine and three in areas focused on readaptation. Here we were fortunate enough to be allowed to get up close and feed and touch the manatees, which was pretty incredible and not something we had expected to be doing in the rainforest! They are so unexpectedly squishy and have the strangest mouths, with soft cheek like pincers to help them grab food. One thing to note though is they have extremely smelly breath! They really are such beautiful creatures though and I cannot understand how anyone could harm something so gentle.

      After this, we drove through Iquitos in the slightly crazy traffic of buses, motorbikes and tuktuks. The colour everywhere is such a contrast to the usual grey and pale cities of the UK, and as we drove through the market on a Sunday you could see everyone out and about enjoying the holiday and shopping amongst the colourful stalls. I wish I hadn't lost the photos from here because the colour and the crowds really were quite spectacular. Also of note, sadly there is a real contrast too between the richer and poorer areas of the city, a gap which is continuing to grow.      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 3

      Arrival at the Tahuyaou Lodge

      September 18, 2016 in Peru

      We arrived at the lodge after a four-hour boat ride. It should have been a little quicker but we got caught in an awesome downpour and lightning storm, so had to hunker down for 20 minutes or so. Not complaining though, near enough saw lightning every few seconds lighting up the jungle. We voyaged down the Amazon for some of the journey, which was incredible...it is just so so big!

      You know it will be of course because you read about it, but seeing it with your own eyes is something else. The water levels are lower this time of year too, so it gets even bigger. In fact at one point we were looking at what we thought was the bank on the other side of the river, it looked like it was miles away, and then as we travelled further along it became clear that this was in fact just an island in the middle of the river and that, actually, the other side of the river looked like it was basically an ocean away! We found out that during high water much of that island would be submerged.

      We eventually turned down the Tahuyaou River, an Amazon tributary, towards the lodge. This was a much narrower and calmer river, with dense bush and trees either side. I also have to say that aside from the views, this part of the ride was not so pleasant for me. Never have I ever needed to pee so badly with no place to go. After two hours contemplating how I might be able to solve this problem (peeing over the side had seriously crossed my mind) we finally arrived!

      We pulled up to the end of a long wooden jetty which led up to a massive wooden structure on stilts that was the centre. It is incredible to think that during the high water season, you pull up to the entrance at the top of the stairs instead, a good ten metres above the ground. After been shown around the lodge we were taken to our room, an awesome two storey wooden lodge on stilts, with a balcony overlooking the trees to the back of the lodge. The whole place is amazing, lovely beds, really nice bathroom, feels like five star! I'm glad it isn't like some of the proper luxury jungle lodges though, with the stilts and banana leaf roofs, it blends in perfectly to its surroundings.

      Within half an hour of taking in the amazing sounds of the jungle around us, the sound of rustling branches had us rushing outside Richard's room, to see what creature we might find. This was where the whole thing became even more exciting, because the rustling was being made by monkeys!!! MONKEYS!!!! right outside our room in the trees overlooked by the balcony. There were two or three and they were climbing and leaping through the trees, we found out later that they were squirrel monkeys. There really is nothing like seeing them where they belong, free to just leap through the trees across amazingly large distances. They seemingly just fall between leaps, grabbing hold of the next branch they find and then climbing so quickly before leaping again, it's just incredible.

      What a way to begin the trip!

      Next up was dinner, and the buffet was a very welcome sight indeed. A fantastic spread of food for us all, we definitely won't be starving here.

      Next up Rich and Rob found a giant spider just outside the mesh of our room. We asked what it was and someone said banana spider, our guide took a look and was unsure so still non the wiser! Ah well, it's not like a banana spider can kill you in 36 hours....oh wait!

      And now to fall asleep to the amazing sounds of the jungle, whilst we hope it doesn't find a way in.      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      1
      1
      Day 6

      Stranded in the Amazon

      September 21, 2016 in Peru

      This afternoon we opted for a boat ride which we shared with the couple who have been our excursion partners pretty much the whole trip, which is nice. We opted for this as it was a hot day and the short but very sweaty morning hike had done us in. So after another great lunch, which included the freshly caught fish by the couple we passed, we set off in search of more wildlife and some small hope of dolphins (although the river isn't good for them at the minute here). We saw more yellow headed carcara, black collared hawk, a brown collared hawk, a huge heron and lots of kingfishers, many of them with a tasty snack in tow. After about 20 minutes enjoying the beautiful day the Rainforest lived up to its name and a shower started to come down. We were all a bit too excited to be on a boat in the Amazon in the rain and decided to brave the shower without rain coats...it was only a shower after all. The shower then gave way to a full on downpour...quickly. The jackets came out. It really added a whole new depth to the place when in the rain, a completely different feel and experience. It was once again amazing and still, the birds were darting past us as more amazing views appeared after every turn.
      Once the rain stopped we saw an amazing double rainbow, right over the forest behind us and we continued a little further, spotting more and more hawks and many more kingfishers.

      Then the fun stuff happened...The engine stopped working after two hours motoring upstream! Three Bits, two Aussies and two Peruvians up Amazonian Creek with only a paddle.

      We began to paddle....and paddle....and paddle. There was no way to communicate with the camp, so we were told we would need to wait until they realised we hadn't turned up for dinner for someone to rescue us.

      Thankfully despite being soaked and with the sun going down, the mood was one of adventure and we enjoyed a good laugh, some bad singing and Richards wookie impersonations as the guys took it in turns to sit at the helm and paddle back, thankfully with the current.

      We were also hungry, with just one bag of Inca Corn to share between us that Jess and Anthony had brought with them (the biggest corn kernels you have ever seen by the way, can't wait to get some more).

      It was all going well with Rob at the helm until the changeover happened. Richard's transition was not so good and we immediately ended up lodged on a fallen tree branch. After quite a few attempts to break free and a few more jokes about being stranded for the night, we finally got free by almost capsizing the boat in our attempt to tilt it and a lot of leverage work by Andy, our guide.

      Richard remained at the helm for about half an hour, when Anthony had his turn. By this point, the sun was going down and the views were just stunning. Night hawks came out and fireflies lit up the bushes. And then it got darker, and darker, and darker, and darker...and with that it got cold. I regretted opting to keep only my legs dry in the earlier downpour.

      But my goodness, were the views worth the accidental stranding. Pitch black on the river, only phones for torches and the stars just kept on appearing. Jupiter first and then every minute it seemed hundreds more were out. After 2 hours of paddling, we all laid down in the boat and just stared at the sky, the millions of stars and the most incredible view of the Milkyway. We even saw shooting stars and Andy pointed out the Southern Cross, Hercules and Scorpio to us.

      Finally, after over two hours of paddling (and only really getting half way back) we could hear the engine of a much hoped for search party. Looking backwards I could hear the initial relief and then panic as the guys facing forward realised the approaching boat hadn't seen us...and they were heading straight at us at speed...oops! Fortunately, some last minute waving of a phone torch and nifty paddling skills meant we avoided a collision by inches and we didn't require a third search party for all of us.

      We switched boats and tethered ours before finally motoring back through the night. Once again we just enjoyed the view of the sky, the fireflies, the bats and the sound of fish leaping out of the water beside us.

      Dinner time back at camp was much needed and to make it even better we were handed a goodbye cake as a thank-you for visiting. Safe to say our planned evening canoe ride was no longer necessary, so we chilled over some cake with our guides before changing into warm clothes and heading to the Hammock room for one last night.

      Which is where I am now, listening to the jungle buzz, the night time birds and the relentless crazy sounding frogs in the cosiest place ever!      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 7

      Morning fishing

      September 22, 2016 in Peru

      Headed out to do some morning fishing today. Planned to leave at around 6 to avoid the sun but a slight mix up made it 6:50 and boy oh boy does it make a difference. Probably the hottest day today and by 8:30 the sweat was pouring, especially on a boat without any shade.

      Heading up river, we saw another sloth hanging out in the tree and many more birds, including a capped heron chilling at the shore.

      We anchored ourselves to a protruding branch at a slightly stiller part of the river and took up our fishing positions. We used simple wooden sticks and fishing line contraptions with 1a bit of beef for bait.
      I wasn't sure how to actually fish, so I lost my first piece of bait quickly without any attempt to catch the fish. After being told what to do (simply tug the line) I soon caught the first fish! A red bellied piranha!! They're the ones they always use in Hollywood movies and his teeth were insane!! He was too small to keep though so we chucked him back in. Shortly after I caught another one, again too small though so no lunch yet. One thing I wasn't too happy about was my inability to catch fish without the hook ending up through their poor eye. Not sure this is a hobby I will like to take up.

      Rich was next catching a silver bellied piranha, but again, not big enough for lunch. The last catch by us was another one by me (apparently I can catch fish) and this time a Catfish. Looked awesome but once again, too small!

      Fortunately our guide Andy caught three pretty big Peacock Bass, however, he had a proper rod so definitely had the advantage. We will be having these alongside our lunch, which is due in a couple of hours, before we have to say goodbye to this amazing place.      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 5

      Flying through the trees!

      September 20, 2016 in Peru

      A bit of a late post but better late than never!!

      The morning of the 20th me and Rob got up early at around 5:30 to see if we could spot any hummingbirds from the hammock room, as this is when they are seen most often. And fortunately, we were lucky enough to spot one! We watched as it darted from tree to tree, so small and delicate as it hovered by the flowers. It was near enough impossible to photograph, although lucky for us it paused on a branch and had a little stretch of its wings, so we got a pretty good shot then.

      Today we set off early on the boat at around 6:30 to do some morning birdwatching before breakfast. The early morning light on the river and the lodge was beautiful and it was really serene at this time, especially with barely anyone else up and about.

      We set off along the river downstream and saw plenty of birds, especially hawks, sitting close up in the trees either side of the river. We saw a Squirrel Cuckoo, Yellow-headed Cacaras, White Ear Jacamars, Greater Ani, Swallow Wings, Black Collared Hawks and Kingfishers.

      After another great breakfast, we headed off into the jungle straight behind the lodge towards the activity of the day...the canopy zip line!

      We were with Jess and Anthony again and joined by a new couple from America and Ireland who had just arrived. One of the guides soon stopped us and pointed up high into one of the trees. There were two adorable owl monkeys!!! Just hiding away in a hole up high, poking out their heads. We were handed binoculars for a closer look and they really did look a lot like owls. Massive eyes and a beautiful face, staring down at us. They don't come out in the day so we were pretty lucky to see them awake, even if they were huddled in a hole.

      We saw more of the usual birds and insects for the next 20 minutes whilst chatting to the new people and discussing how amazing the jungle is, as well as just how hot it is. It was early morning and after a short walk, we were sweating buckets already. You don't notice it so much after a while though, it is just a permanent state of being and the beauty of everything else wins over.

      It wasn't too long before we arrived at the zipline ground platform and walked up the wooden steps to sit down at last and await getting harnessed in. Looking up at the platform in the canopy made your belly go a bit funny...it was high!!
      There were two options to get up, being hoisted up by the guides, or trying the hard way, using reverse gri gri's and a foot sling. Safe to say after watching our guide Andy hoist himself up there the majority of us girls immediately recognised it would be impossible. The men of course either wanted a go, or figured they had to try, being men and all of course.

      I was the first to be hoisted on up and I have to give a lot of thanks to the guides on the ground for getting me up. They must have been knackered by the time they had got all three of us up there, especially when you consider they are very small compared to most of us. The view on the way up was half amazing and half terrifying. You are awfully high and just dangling there, moving up and up half a meter at a time. Getting up on to the platform my legs felt a little like jelly but I managed to climb up the ladder to the second level to await the rest of the gang.
      The American girl (can't remember her name) then had a go at hoisting herself up the hard way, however didn't get too far before opting for the hoist. At least she had a go! She was up next and then Jess, who commented on how tired the guides looked and that they seemed glad the boys were all going to opt for getting themselves up there.

      Rich was the first to have a go and he made it up in great time, Andy seemed quite impressed. He clambered up to join us and seemed exhausted, with a very achey arm and leg that he figured would hurt in the morning. Next up was Anthony, he got himself to the top a little slower, but I don't think it was a contest, it was clear just how hard it was and lots of shouts for encouragement came from the ground and the canopy. And so another exhausted guy joined us in the canopy. Next up the Irish guy, again arriving exhausted and making me more and more sure I had made the right choice. Finally, Rob was up, he made a really good and fast start and seemed to have the hang of the process, but he may have started too fast and hit a block just over half way. He didn't give up though. It may have taken longer and he had a few extra breathers but despite the pain and exhaustion, he made it to the top. After struggling to get himself onto the wooden canopy he had a bit of a rest on the lower deck before climbing the ladder to the rest of us. This was where Rob seemed to decide it would be a good place to have a nap and pass out. I could tell a moment before when I saw his very pale and yellow face but couldn't do much to stop it. He slid down the ladder and hit the deck, right up in the trees. Andy broke his fall as best he could but was on the wrong side to make much difference. He couldn't at least have fallen out of the tree due to the guide rope. Still...it was not nice to watch and was pretty scary. After some more water and another rest though he seemed well enough to join us and was quickly voted the manliest man by the men for sheer determination. Male pride for you! He is fine now Adele, just a couple of bruises!

      We all spent some time taking in the view from the top of the trees and it was spectacular. Lush green trees stretched for miles around us to the horizon and we looked in awe whilst listening to the crazy sounds of the jungle. Giant insects kept buzzing by and there was a small army of large but harmless ants scurrying along one of the branches. We learnt that a team from America had set the canopy zipline up and it was pretty awesome the way they had suspended it in the trees.

      Rich and a couple of others climbed even higher up some rungs to the very top of our tree. I believe the view was great but every time I looked up my belly did a flip and I thought it best not to go up myself. As for Rob, we decided giving it a miss might just be for the best, also I think his muscles had seized to work properly by now.

      ZIPLINE TIME!!!

      Well, this bit was obviously awesome!!! Flying through the trees so high in the air. Rob was one of the last across and certainly looked like the one who enjoyed it the most, with a huge grin on his face and his arms and legs stretched out. I think he was OK now!

      The second platform was far more wobbly in that it shook when people joined from the other platform. So that was a fun surprise when you are standing and don't know this. One of the guides who we hadn't spent much time with, I think he was mostly a tech guy, was INSANE! At first, he was attached only with a rope tied around his waist, and then...with nothing! He helped to hoist one of the other guides with nothing on and gave Rich a little scare when his welly slipped. Fortunately, his view on our safety was much higher!

      After all three ziplines it was time to head back down. We were given gloves and tied into a system in which we would be lowered as we loosened our grip of the rope. I was second and started out very slow until being told to loosen my grip, which seemed like the opposite to what you should do dangling so high in the air! I did though and you could feel the heat coming through the gloves as you slid down. Eventually, we all got down safe and sound and finally got free from our harnesses again. Such an amazing experience! Wish I could do it again.

      Back at the lodge we were also lucky enough to spot a snake! Yellow and white and curled around the beams holding up some of the wooden walkway. Can't remember the species now but it was pretty cool.

      Time for lunch after that, we were exhausted. Had some delicious mangos with lunch, which considering I don't like them in the UK, I tried them and my mind was blown. These are not like the mangos in England, these are so so sweet and tasty! Yum! I love it here!      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 4

      Poison dart frog hunt

      September 19, 2016 in Peru

      Today we went for a hike through the jungle in search of the elusive poison dart frogs.
      We started out the day by waking up to the wonderful sounds of the jungle at about 5:30, after a very long and much needed sleep. You wouldn't think you could sleep with the deafening noise of the jungle that erupts after sun down, but it is strangely tranquil and seems to be the perfect white noise. The day started with an incredibly colourful and varied breakfast buffet (the fruit here is so sweet and juicy it might as well be a different species to the fruit we buy in the UK) to set us up for the day. This was followed by a two-hour boat ride to the hiking destination of the day. The boat ride took us a short way along the Tahuyaou River and then on to the Rio Blanca for the rest. It is a small river that may not be there tomorrow, it fluctuates hugely and quickly with the rain. You really notice the density and height of trees changing as you head up this river and towards terra firma (where it doesn't flood). Newly sprung (but pretty big) bushes, small trees and grasses are replaced by towering trees and much more of them. The view was just amazing and it is hard to put into words the feeling of lazing in a small boat, gliding through the jungle amongst the trees, the birds, the sounds. It is just incredible and humbling.

      It felt a little like a scene from the jungle book "look for the bare necessities!"

      We passed an Amazonian village on route and saw plenty of birds, including a kingfisher!

      Eventually, we arrived for the trek and set off through the jungle in search of poison dart frogs. We traversed a precariously placed log that was waaaay to narrow for my liking. About the width of a persons foot, with nothing to hold on to and a lovely little drop below. Rich and Rob passed with ease...I took my time.

      Next up, Rambo style vine swinging over another little crevasse. I found myself a large log to cross over instead (I value my life and had hands far too sweaty to hold a vine) but Rich and Rob made it over in style. We will edit out the first attempt fail by Rob on the video (update: we lost this video so Rob can breathe a sigh of relief - except that he totally missed the landing and ended up swinging and dangling on the vine for a while before being assisted and trying again!).

      So, on to the wildlife...we were so lucky to find three species of poison dart frog, an Amazonicus Poison Dart Frog, a Yellow Spotted Poison Dart Frog and one of the rarest, a Uakari Poison Dart Frog. Beautiful colours and so incredibly small, we owe some much deserved thanks to our guide as there was no way we would have spotted most of them without him (although I did spot one of them chilling on a log!).

      We also saw some amazing leaf-like frogs, and I will never understand how Andy spotted these whilst walking over the forest floor, some were only the size of your little finger nail, and they really did blend in so well with the leafy forest floor!

      We also spotted a cuckoo, a centipede, some cool looking and large ladybugs and a tourist killer bee! - Andy may have been playing tricks with that one. Oh and we also saw some bullet ants (after our guide prodded a nest and they swarmed out!!).

      Just before lunch we headed to a massive fallen tree, its trunk is now hollowed out and it is big enough to crawl through and long enough to call a tunnel. Even better...it has bats living in it!! We were up for the challenge and turned on our torches. Rob was first and I can't say I'm not glad. The first step he made toward the entrance and out flew a few bats right towards him! After a little fright, we all headed through, adopting a crawling squat through the guano beneath, with bats whizzing past just inches away from our faces, you could feel them fluttering by your ears. They were False Vampire Bats and Short Fruit Bats and they were awesome. Loved it...except for the guano. Jess and Anthony, the Australian couple who joined us on most excursions, decided to give it a miss.

      Lunch was amazing, like all the food here, and where better to be eating than in the middle of the rainforest, under a canopy of wooden poles and banana leaves. Our guides cooked up a treat and we ate a wonderfully delicious pot of pork, spiced in delicious juices with some yuka, a potato-like food that was yummy! During lunch, we were also joined by some curious butterflies with beautiful colours and big enough and fast enough to make you jump when they dart past. There was an electric blue and black one that took a particular liking to Rob (a.k.a the butterfly whisperer) but remained elusive to the camera for ages (got him eventually though!).

      On the way back we saw a Sloth up high in a tree, which mainly looked like a big ball of something undefined, but it definitely moved so our eyes weren't deceiving us.

      And then, as if it couldn't get any better, the guides began to shout and it turns out there was a monkey in the trees on the bank. He was a beautiful Woolly Monkey named Coby who had once been a pet, but now lived in the wild. We pulled to the side and he climbed down the branches until he was right above our heads! We fed him bananas and apple and he took them right from our hands, dangling by his tail from the branches. It was incredible and I think the smiles and disbelief on our faces said it all. Such an amazing experience to top off an awesome excursion. Still can't quite believe it actually happened.

      And then... as if we hadn't had a good enough day already, once again we returned to our room, heard the rustle of branches and ran out to find more monkeys!!! We shouted to the couple next door, Anthony and Jess, and we stood and watched as over 20 monkeys made their way through the trees behind the lodge, a never-ending line of swinging monkeys seeming to just fly through the trees. You really can't appreciate their strength and agility anywhere else but the wild, it really is something else and we just stood there transfixed until they were gone.

      After the monkeys passed we stayed out a little longer and Rob spotted a toucan on the tree just outside. We took some great pictures and showed them to our guide Andy, who of course then informed us it was not a Toucan, but a bird that looked a lot like one. Poor Rob was not impressed...however it was still a really beautiful bird.      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 4

      A quick 'we are alive' update

      September 19, 2016 in Peru

      A bit too much excitement in the jungle to be able to tell you all about it but that is because THE AMAZON IS AWESOME!!!!!!! We have seen poison dart frogs, monkeys (even fed one!), walked through tree trunks of bats, seen bugs and butterflies galore and so many amazing birds, including a toucan!! Night time adventures this evening still to come! - I will write a better report when I get time!Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 4

      Jungle night hike

      September 19, 2016 in Peru

      So the thought of hiking through the jungle in the dark was a pretty daunting prospect before we headed out, especially when you are purposefully looking for tarantulas, snakes and scorpions. We donned the jungle wellies, grabbed a torch and a couple of headlamps and headed out, following Andy, our lovely guide, meticulously through the pitch black forest.

      It was pretty amazing to see all the eyes of the spiders and insects reflecting like jewels from our lights. Every single one glinted like a little diamond amongst the trees and undergrowth. It was surprising how large some would shine before you find out it is a tiny spider the size of a fingernail.

      We came across an enormous frog pretty soon in to our trek and honestly it was almost the size of a football. It was a Smokey Eyed Jungle Frog and I just wouldn't have believed it possible for a frog to be this big had I not seen it for myself. Absolutely massive!

      We didn't find any tarantulas which is a shame, but we did spot an orb weaver spider, with a HUGE web. It was right across our route and I feel like it could have trapped a human if it wanted to! Really intricate and amazing, and as far as spiders go they're pretty beautiful. I also got up close to a spider on the ground to take photos, later finding out it was one of the most venomous spiders on the planet.      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 6

      Spying Cayman!

      September 21, 2016 in Peru

      So, this morning we got up nice and early to see if we could spot any hummingbirds by the lodge. We were fortunate enough to spot a couple of them perched on the branch tips, buzzing around every now and then. Attempts to capture them flying on camera failed miserably, they are waaaay to quick! But it did stretch out its wings for us. There were several other birds too including an awesome looking bird we think might have been a woodpecker.

      After a 6:30 breakfast we took a boat up the river with another couple to where we would hike to find the lake with the Cayman. The boat trips along this river are still just as incredible and surreal as the first time. Birds, dragon flies and butterflies all darting across the river ahead of us or flying alongside us. The birds appear to hover by the side of your head as they fly by the side of you and the dragon flies skit alongside the ridge of the boat in the slipstream, one or two at a time. And as for the butterflies, they seem to enjoy fluttering around the boat, darting past heads and in-between bodies, round and round...its all so mesmerising and definitely keeps a smile on your face throughout the journey.

      On arrival we changed back into our very smelly socks and rubber boots in prep for the short but hot hike to the lake. Here the trees are very spaced apart, unlike our hike on Terra Firma, as the water levels rise every year killing many of the smaller plants. The trees that exist here are huge with great big buttress roots, on show now it is the dry season, and some amazing parasite trees which look like a maze of hundreds of trunks, all making up the one tree. We heard a Horned Screamer as we trekked, a giant bird nicknamed the Donkey Bird because of the noise it makes, very very loud and strange, echoing through the trees.

      There was some difficult trekking through swamp like mud which twice almost took off my welly, a loud squelching pop and the release of eggy sulphur smells greeted us whenever you broke free. Thankfully it was suggested we grab sticks to help guide us or else we would have been face first in the mud or stabbed by the trees around us that were covered in needle like spines.

      After the mud, we came to a small swamp area where we saw water chickens (jungle chicken) and Richard spotted some blue headed parrots amongst the trees surrounding a lake of water lettuce. The arrival of an eagle soon scared them away.

      Next up was the lake, a massive oxbow lake that during the wet season we could have canoed out too (the water level would be metres higher). Here we immediately spotted three Black Cayman sat stationary in the water around the platform we were on. These were only young still and less than 2 metres, but their eyes still looked menacing as they waited for lunch. We also spotted a couple of yellow spotted river turtles, some pencil fish and dragon fish and the signs of catfish as they leap out the surface for air.

      The tropical cormorants on the lake were either sunning themselves on branches protruding from the water, wings spread wide, or swimming like jungle ducks on the lake catching fish or wrestling each other for them. We heard the Jungle Donkey again and were lucky enough to see them perched up high in the trees. We also saw several Hoatzin Birds, a special bird which eats only shoots. I was pretty chuffed because they are hard to spot and I was the one to find them. Their babies still have claws on their wings, a bit like bats, and they use them to clamber back to their nest should they leap out if scared. This bird was nicknamed the jungle pig alongside the jungle chicken and jungle donkey, I'm sure you can guess why.

      Another hike and boat trip back to the lodge, where we passed some other guests who had caught some fish, and now we have a few hours to chill before the afternoon. We also realised just how stinky we all are and used the time for a much needed scrub. We even attempted to clean some clothes. Fortunately, the scale of the dirt was masked by the colour of the river water used.

      Now for some chill time in the Hammock!      Read more

    • TravelerSouthern Hemisphere Travels
      Day 7

      Lunch and adios

      September 22, 2016 in Peru

      Enjoyed our last half an hour in the Hammock room, snoozing in the relatively cool shade and taking in the beauty of the place. I haven't really described this room yet (pretty self explanatory) but it is a lovely round room, with see-through mesh for windows and built traditionally like the rest of the lodge, with wooden logs, sticks and banana leaves for a roof. There are hammocks facing out in all directions from a central beam, so you can choose to gaze at the river or spy birds in the forest behind, all to the sound track of the jungle. And with that soundtrack we started to hear thunder rolling in from the distance and I think we were all hoping it would hurry up and rain to help clear out the heat of the day.

      We soon heard the call to dinner and made our way across the wooden beam bridge that connected us to the main lodge for food.

      Today's main dish, Catfish...with a side of Andy's freshly caught Peacock Bass from our fishing trip. So delicious! Rich and Rob also tried the strange and not so nice looking giant star fruit. Richard's face said it all and he described it as having the texture of paper mache. Definitely not something we will have again. Catfish on the other hand...yum!

      Time then to gather our things and say goodbye to the team and our guides. We were also made to slightly regret our lack of foresight to check our boots before packing them, as Anthony informed us he had gone to put his boots on and in an attempt to shake out a rock, shook out a wolf spider ok instead. Not dangerous but a painful bite, fingers crossed we don't bring one to Lima!

      We said our goodbyes and got in the boat for the three hour ride to Iquitos. We felt really sad to say goodbye to the place. Despite the permanent state of sweat and the mosquito bites (of which I have had more in Europe to be fair), it really is the most overwhelmingly beautiful place I have been. The sheer scale of the jungle around us is impossible to put into words and the constant buzzing and sightings of the stunning wildlife is something we will miss. It is another world and one I am so glad we can say we have experienced.

      The boat ride was a huge relief from the heat, with the wind and rain cooling us down. And for the final time we enjoyed the wildlife along the banks of the river.
      A huge flock of Tropical Cormorants, fish hanging from their mouths, took flight as we sailed past what must have been a popular feeding spot. They flew alongside and ahead of us and it felt a little like you were flying with them. We also saw a vulture drag a huge piranha from the water and into the bushes which was cool.
      We once again got to take in the scale of the Amazon River as we left the Tahuayo River and joined the Amazon. IT IS HUGE!! There was a lot of debris from fallen trees from the river banks and we narrowly missed a massive log that was pretty well hidden on the water. Unfortunately, we didn't get to see any river dolphins, but never mind, it gives us a reason to come back and enjoy the high water season one day.

      After pulling up at the very busy and hectic port of Iquitos, we were greeted with ice cream after clambering up the stairs that would normally be hidden in high water. The air felt much drier and we all felt a little better, and then immediately lazy as we saw the small porters carrying our luggage (three back packs stacked) up the stairs that had had us sweating just moments earlier.

      That is one other thing we have to say about Amazonia Expeditions, they have looked after us so well the entire time, it has honestly felt five star and it has just added to the whole experience and it made it all the more easy to enjoy.

      We were back at the Iquitos office pretty early due to a bus strike, which they thought would slow our airport run, but apparently, it didn't and we were soon on a bus to the airport, back through the bustling, colourful high Street of Iquitos. We arrived majorly early, had to pay a tip to the porters who carried our bags on a trolley for just 10 metres (easy work compared to the last guys) and then faced a nice hour long wait before check-in, which apparently they don't take too seriously when it comes to luggage as people are literally taking suitcases and even guitars on the plane! Grrrrr.

      Anyway, now we are on the plane heading back to Lima, the guitar is stowed safely on a person's lap (yay health and safety!) and we all feel stinky and itchy and tired, but it was worth it!

      Time to land!      Read more

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