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  • Plata Panacea

Spain & Portugal

Traveling with Explore Europe Tours with 25 new friends! Lue lisää
  • 🇺🇸
    Viimeksi nähty paikassa
    Saint Louis County
  • Day 13: Flying home!

    18. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 17 °C

    Up at 6am because my brain was done sleeping. That translates to midnight in St. Louis… breakfast and taxi and bus to the airport was uneventful. Checking in was fairly easy… but the Lisbon airport is HUGE and the cues are enormously long… but everyone and everything went smoothly!!! Only 4,000 steps and we were finally at our gate with 90 minutes to spare. WHEW!

    I spent most of our last euro coins at the vending machine getting a Snickers and Coke. That should sustain us for a bit, right?
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  • Day 12: Finishing with Lisbon

    17. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 23 °C

    It’s our last full day and smash burgers for lunch was a perfect way to put us in the mood to be home :)

    After lunch we had a walking tour of Lisbon followed by another river cruise which provided some nice views of the Lisbon metro and a very nice sunset.

    Finally. Our last dinner together. The restaurant was nice enough and the food was pretty good but somehow they weren’t prepared for us even though we had preordered weeks ago to streamline the food prep.

    We’ll be up early for breakfast and a loooong wait at a very busy Lisbon airport!
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  • Day 12: Sintra Palace

    17. lokakuuta, Portugali ⛅ 18 °C

    The bus took us up some incredibly tight and winding roads to Sintra today. This was a once remote area where the Lisbon aristocracy summered. At first I thought it was hard to imagine the level of wealth that would build such a large palace/property… then I thought of today’s billionaires, trillionaires and oligarchs who are burning through our global resources today. Suddenly it’s not hard to imagine!

    This fairy tale palace was built in the 1850’s for Portugal’s last king, Carlos I, and only occupied for about 60 years. This palace has been very well preserved and contains much of King Carlos’ furnishings. Sadly because of the dense fog we missed out on the mountain and ocean view fit for a king.

    Mounting weak royal authority and public discontent culminated in the assassination of King Carlos I in 1908. Just two years later, on October 5, 1910, the revolution overthrew his successor, King Manuel II, ending over 700 years of monarchy and establishing the First Portuguese Republic.

    The Dictatorship (1926–1974): The unstable First Republic was overthrown by a military coup in 1926. This paved the way for António de Oliveira Salazar to build the Estado Novo ("New State"), a conservative authoritarian dictatorship that ruled the country for nearly five decades.

    Transition to Democracy (1974): On April 25, 1974, a bloodless military coup known as the Carnation Revolution overthrew the regime. Citizens placed red carnations into the muzzles of soldiers' rifles, ending the dictatorship, decolonizing Portugal's overseas territories, and establishing the modern democratic republic.
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  • Day 11: Lisbon dinner

    16. lokakuuta, Portugali 🌙 23 °C

    We had a group dinner at Restaurant Bastardo. Dinner is always good but tonight the highlight was the walk to and from the hotel. We’ve been blessed with perfect weather our whole time here and sitting at the central plaza for an after dinner drink was absolutely perfect.
    A last drink at the hotel bar was tasty and totally silly as the bartenders created a new signature drink for Jackie and Nora based on the recipe from our previous day in Nazaré.
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  • Day 11: Nazarè

    16. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 21 °C

    Nazarè rhymes with cabaret

    World famous for its dramatic surf conditions. Perched on a 300-foot cliff, Nazaré blends ancient legend with modern extreme sports. The underwater Nazaré Canyon is a 16,000-foot deep trench funneling winter Atlantic storms into liquid skyscrapers over 80 feet high. Surfers once deemed these waves unsurfable until 2011, when Garrett McNamara towed into a world record. Now, the 16th-century clifftop fort serves as the ultimate natural arena for the world’s biggest wave riders.

    Today though? The Atlantic was mighty calm at lease by world record standards. But I assure you the lifeguards on duty take their job mighty seriously. Jackie just wanted to touch the lapping waves at the edge of the beach and we got whistled twice! Probably because I couldn’t believe WE were the violators in question :)

    And Lunch today? Perfect. It’s amazing how a simple cob salad and a cheese plate can really hit the spot! We didn’t feel the need to walk and shop more today so we enjoyed our perfectly peaceful lunch spot until it was time to board the bus again.

    Here are a couple good YouTubes featuring the waves of Nazare

    https://youtu.be/74pnrYPozcU?si=RG7iryvBsECpLUDG

    https://youtu.be/JkMWoHjnaRw?si=PVHTRl7CHrOelp6r
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  • Day 10: Douro River cruise

    15. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 23 °C

    A short bus ride back to the river and we’re motoring along the river. This is not a Mississippi River cruise! Once again many of the scenes along the river’s edge are probably very nearly the same as visitors from centuries ago may have enjoyed.

    Two of the bridges here have Eiffel Tower connections: In 1877, twelve years before he built the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Gustave Eiffel’s engineering firm designed and built the Maria Pia Bridge. A second bridge was built by his business partner and protégé, Théophile Seyrig.

    BTW - the first photo is not our tour boat :)
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  • Day 10: Porto & Hogwarts

    15. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 25 °C

    Another walking tour including a stop at the Lello Bookstore which is considered one of the most beautiful in the world with its stunning Neo-Gothis and Art Nouveau interior.  It might have been the inspiration for J.K. Rowings' Howarts. We waited with our line tickets to enter a very crowded bookstore with waaay too many folks doing selfies instead of shopping.

    The building: Livraria Lello officially opened on January 13, 1906, making it over 120 years old. While its root publishing history traces back even further to 1869 (when French publisher Ernesto Chardron founded an earlier bookstore business that the Lello brothers later bought), the physical building and its famous iconic interior date precisely to 1906.

    The city of Ponto has so much vintage character. The cobblestone walks and streets are a bit challenging here and there but the attention to detail in an effort to preserve the old world feel is fascinating. I can only imagine the tourists from centuries ago appreciating nearly the same scenes.
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  • Day 10: Walking along the Douro

    14. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 24 °C

    Yesterday we walked the streets of Vila Nova de Gaia along the river Rio Douro. In a metropolis some areas are nicer than others, but I thoroughly enjoyed walking these streets. There’s something quaint and sorta romantic about drying the laundry outside even if it’s just hanging over your tiny apartment’s deck…. anyway we enjoyed the short walk :)Lue lisää

  • Day 9 stop two: Aveiro

    14. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 23 °C

    This tiny and ancient town is built around a series of canals. Presently it’s filled with touristy shops and of course restaurants! We only had a couple hours here and we spent most of it sitting under an umbrella near the canal sharing local cheese, bread, olives and of course my newest favorite drink: lemon beer! Imagine a lemonade/tea but make it with beer instead of tea. It’s really light and refreshing!Lue lisää

  • Day 9: Coimbra University

    14. lokakuuta, Portugali ☀️ 16 °C

    We had a quick tour of the university at Coimbra. The Biblioteca Joanina at the University of Coimbra is an 18th-century Baroque masterpiece built under King John V. Inside, three grand rooms feature gold-leaf wood carvings, detailed lacquerwork, and painted ceilings with optical illusions.
    Exotic Brazilian rosewood shelves hold over 60,000 historic books. To protect these rare pages, the library relies on a natural conservation trick: two-meter-thick stone walls keep temperatures steady, while a resident colony of bats flies through the dark every night to eat book-destroying insects. Directly below the glittering library sits a stone medieval prison where misbehaving students were once locked up under the university's private law.
    No photos are allowed and I followed the rules but found plenty of images on the interweb.

    Here’s a link to someone else’s rule breaking video:

    https://youtu.be/G3wDe5jZdwA?si=j-UcH4TT0y0vkyy3
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  • Day 8: Drive to Coimbra

    13. lokakuuta, Espanja ☀️ 24 °C

    Up early again. Never experienced an open bottle of vodka in the hotel cafe so why not enjoy a refreshing after breakfast Madras!

    Drive, drive, drive and we stopped in Careres for lunch. We popped into another beautiful old church then wandered the streets and found a lunch spot in the central plaza. It’s amazing how challenging and yet easy it is to order food and pay checks etc when there is no language overlap! Our lunch spot was very comfy and relaxing with a few of our travel mates… a scene I would be happy to repeat daily!Lue lisää

  • Day 7: Walking Toledo

    12. lokakuuta, Espanja ⛅ 26 °C

    Safe and secure: I’ve experienced this feeling before when traveling… it might be ignorance or mere stupidity but I often find myself much more comfortable walking either together or alone when touring most of these sites. I walked to fetch dinner late last night and around the neighborhood early this morning and didn’t once feel like a pickpocket or boogie man was gonna grab me. Sad that many brown people in the US can’t feel that comfortable near their own homes knowing Ice agents might be lurking. Oh wait. Did I get a little political there? 😬

    I know we generally travel in a somewhat protected bubble in foreign lands but it’s hard not to be envious of these locals of foreign lands and the beauty surrounding them.
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  • The Disrobing of Christ

    12. lokakuuta, Espanja ⛅ 28 °C

    Oftentimes we don’t appreciate what we’re seeing when we see it. I asked Google to tell me more about the El Greco paintings in the cathedral we visited yesterday and it’s nearly unimaginable that the artist painted this painting to hang in this spot over 450 years ago!!

    Location: Prominently set within the altar of the Sacristy of Toledo Cathedral. 

    The Subject: Commissioned in 1577 shortly after El Greco arrived in Toledo, it depicts the moment before the Crucifixion when Roman soldiers strip Jesus of his vibrant crimson robe. 

    Details to Notice:
    The Crimson Robe: The intense, glowing red robe at the center draws the viewer's eye immediately, contrasting with the dark armor of the soldier beside him and the chaotic, claustrophobic crowd surging around him. 
    Artistic Controversy: When El Greco delivered this painting, cathedral authorities initially refused to pay full price because he placed the heads of the crowd higher than Christ's head, and included the Three Marys in the lower left—details church officials considered non-canonical. It is now recognized as one of his absolute masterpieces

    1. Who Handed Him the Job?
    When El Greco arrived in Spain in 1577, his dream was to land royal commissions from King Philip II at El Escorial. However, while waiting for a royal opening, he established a key connection in Toledo: Diego de Castilla, the Dean of Toledo Cathedral.
    In July 1577, Dean Diego de Castilla commissioned El Greco to paint a major piece for the cathedral’s newly built sacristy—the vestry room where priests dressed in sacred vestments before celebrating Mass.
    2. Was the Subject Specifically Chosen?
    Yes. The theme was directly tied to the function of the room.
    Because the room was the sacristy—the place of vestments—the Cathedral Chapter specifically requested a depiction of the stripping/disrobing of Christ before his crucifixion (El Expolio). The theological idea was symbolic: as priests put on their holy robes in the sacristy to reenact the Sacrifice of the Mass, they contemplated Christ being stripped of his red robe before his ultimate sacrifice on Mount Calvary.
    3. The Controversy and Conflict
    While the Cathedral Chapter requested the subject, they did not expect El Greco’s revolutionary Mannerist interpretation, which ignited an intense row when he delivered the finished work in 1579:
    The Artistic Offenses: The church commissioners objected to two major details:
    1. The Crowding: The violent heads of the mob were placed higher than Christ’s head, which theologians argued lacked proper reverence.
    2. The Three Marys: El Greco included the Three Marys in the lower-left corner looking on in distress. The church argued that gospel accounts placed the Marys further away during the disrobing.
    The Legal Battle: The cathedral's appraisers offered El Greco only 350 ducats instead of the 950 ducats his own valuation demanded. They ordered him to alter the painting and remove the controversial elements.
    El Greco took them to court/arbitration. He ultimately accepted the lower payment because he desperately needed cash, but he refused to repaint or alter a single brushstroke—leaving the original composition exactly as you saw it!
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  • Day 7: Toledo cathedral

    12. lokakuuta, Espanja ⛅ 27 °C

    The Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo stands as the crowning jewel of Spanish High Gothic architecture. Commissioned in 1226 under King Ferdinand III on the site of a former Visigothic cathedral and Grand Mosque, this towering masterpiece took nearly three centuries to construct. Its expansive five-nave interior seamlessly blends French Gothic grandiosity with intricate Mudéjar craftsmanship, serving as both Toledo’s spiritual anchor and a treasure house for artistic masterpieces by El Greco, Caravaggio, and Goya.

    Housed within the cathedral’s Treasury rests its most celebrated treasure: the Processional Monstrance (Custodia Procesional). Crafted between 1515 and 1524 by master goldsmith Enrique de Arfe, this 8-foot-tall Gothic spire is a tour de force of Renaissance silversmithing. Constructed from over 180 kilograms of silver and 18 kilograms of gold, the delicate filigree features hundreds of sculpted figurines, pinnacles, and intricate architectural detail. Nestled at its heart is a smaller, solid-gold ostensorium that once belonged to Queen Isabella the Catholic—legendarily gilded with the first gold brought back from the Americas. Every spring during the city's famed Corpus Christi festival, this monumental silver tower leaves its glass repository to be paraded through Toledo's flower-strewn, tapestry-lined medieval streets.
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  • Day 7: Up before the sun

    12. lokakuuta, Espanja ☁️ 18 °C

    We asked the hotel folks to open the breakfast space early because we were on a tight schedule today. Headed to I_don’t_know_where. Sometimes it’s nice to board the bus and go wherever they take us knowing it will be interesting. I’ve spent so little time with the trip’s itinerary.. just along for the ride :)

    Originally built in the 16th century, at least a few of these remaining windmills are still fully functioning grain mills. For 2 euros you can climb to the top floor and see the milling operation. On the main floor of the next windmill we visited we bought a traditional snack. Chips and beer :)

    The fortress here has seen many iterations:
    3rd century Roman palace, 10th century Visigoth fortress, 16th century palace for Spain’s King Charles I… then severely damaged during the 1936 Spanish civil war. Running tight on time we forgo walking through the ruined remains.
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  • Wine tasting and tapas

    11. lokakuuta, Espanja ☁️ 26 °C

    The main event this afternoon was a wine tasting at Finca Calderon about an hour from our hotel.

    We enjoyed four samples and a tour of the property which was pretty interesting. I don’t care for most the white wines (we tasted three) but the last glass we had was a red that would have paired with a ribeye so very well! We bought a bottle of that red one and we may enjoy it tonight.

    But no… instead of relaxing alone we chose to go out for late night drinks and more tapas! That was way more food than any of us needed but we enjoyed being goofy together and we’re all getting to know each other better each day.

    PLUS the weather was absolutely perfect and we enjoyed the long walk back to the hotel seeing the city from a night time perspective!

    *The church pictured in this group claims to have the actual Holy Grail! We didn’t investigate further or pay for that tour but the idea is certainly intriguing.
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  • Bikes in Valencia!

    11. lokakuuta, Espanja ☁️ 26 °C

    Today we started with a bicycle tour of the old city and some of the river park.

    València has an endless supply of beautiful architecture that dates back centuries. The challenge is to see and appreciate it without being fixated on documenting everything.

    The bike lane here is quite serious. Apparently bikes sorta have a right of way and as a pedestrian you really have to be aware of where the painted lanes are.

    The park area is a former river bed which was routed away from the city after severe flooding in the 1950s. Since then, about 9 miles of the old riverbed has been transformed into various types of park and recreational area.

    I could imagine traveling back to Spain and spending a more relaxed time in the Valencia area!
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  • Sitges, Tarragona and Valencia

    10. lokakuuta, Espanja ☀️ 24 °C

    We traveled today via motor coach.

    Stop One: Sitges. A picturesque coastal town and popular day trip from Barcelona, tucked between the Garraf Massif mountains and the Mediterranean Sea. Known for its whitewashed historic old town and the Church of Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla: The iconic 17th-century parish church perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the seafront.

    Stop Two: Tarragona. Once an ancient Roman stronghold in the area much of the old city is built on layer above layer of the Roman ruins. We chose to pass on touring inside the ruins and just appreciate the open air shops. We sat at a fantastic open plaza lined with restaurants and had a few drinks and nachos! We could have shopped and shopped but then we would have had to find room to pack it away and that’s not part of our plan this trip!

    Stop Three: Valencia. Tonight we had a paella cooking class. Our seafood, paella had prawns, cuttlefish, tomatoes, saffron, garlic, onions, rice, and plenty of salt to make those flavors pop. Personally I would’ve enjoyed some cayenne or red pepper, but our dish was mighty tasty. From chopping all the seafood and veggies to learning how to season and cook down the sauce we had a good time.
    Then we walk back to the hotel and crashed.

    * Add a photo of our finished dish and group photos soon as I get them from somebody else
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  • Montserrat monastery

    9. lokakuuta, Espanja ☀️ 14 °C

    Today we rode the train to the Montserrat monastery. It’s nestled in the rugged Catalan mountain range.

    Built around 1100AD it’s now one of the area’s main tourist attractions… and as much as I love seeing new peoples and places… I’m not especially fond of tourist attractions.

    We got to hear a short sampling of the boys choir, walked past the black Madonna and visited with many fine art pieces from Dali, Picasso and many others I didn’t recognize.

    It was a beautiful day but we’re also looking forward to a quiet evening!
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  • Day 3: Walking food tour

    8. lokakuuta, Espanja 🌧 20 °C

    This evening we got to lean into the local food scene. We started at a bakery which first opened their doors in 1868! I don’t remember the name of the pastry we sampled but what a fantastic way to start our progressive meal!!! Then we moved to an 1851 established business which specializes in dried fruit, nuts and oils. Third stop was a local restaurant where we tried a few random and tasty items! Ask Jackie if she enjoyed the cuttlefish! Finally we had a big plate of paella and glass of sangria.

    This old city was built on Roman walls and has such rich history! As we turned every corner I just wanted to stop and find a way to capture the beautiful scenes… but… click click click… and keep walking.
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  • Cathedral Sagrada Família

    8. lokakuuta, Espanja ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we stated at Sagrada Família. This Art Nouveau cathedral was designed by Antoni Gaudí. Nouveau is not my favorite style but this place was magnificent.

    He started the building project in 1889 and it’s still going!!! The many parts that are finished feature an endless selection of Bible figures and icons. The exterior is bizarre and beautiful but the interior is simply breathtaking. Huge vaulted ceiling supported by equally huge pillars placed perfectly to frame an unbelievable set of stained glass windows.

    The only bad part of this tour was being on a tour ;) I would have enjoyed it more if I had just meandered on my own… experiencing this awesome cathedral with music in my ears instead of Charlie Brown’s teacher wah wah wahing throughout the world’s tallest cathedral!

    Check out CBS Sunday Morning’s feature:
    https://youtu.be/uqGe6ZRgFDU?si=h-aEGlrKbkxga35H
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  • Day 1: FLAMICO!

    7. lokakuuta, Espanja

    This evening we met up, got a crash course in riding Barcelona’s subway system and rode a few stops away for a pretty cool topas dinner. Tonight’s was three courses: small bites of various appetizers, entrees and desserts. Some were really good and some people liked the others :)

    The Flamenco show afterwards was a whole lot better than I had expected! For sure it was too long and too loud but… I really enjoyed the guitarists and singers! The dancers were really good too… but 60 minutes of stomping feet is a lot to take after 30+ hours!
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  • Day 1: Airport strike?!

    7. lokakuuta, Espanja

    Airport strike! Looooong lines getting through the airport because of some sort of ground handling strike. I’ll bet we stood in a customs line for three hours!

    But then we finally made it to the bus for a driving tour of Barcelona through sleepy eyes.

    We stopped at El Mirador 360°. It’s an office building of sorts with a cool wrap around viewing deck. Beautiful views of a very old city!

    Then we finally made it to the hotel!!! Unpack. Shower. Nap.
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